WO2011069786A2

WO2011069786A2 - Polymer combination for a shine-producing cosmetic hair treatment agent having strong hold and good hair feel

Info

Publication number: WO2011069786A2
Application number: PCT/EP2010/067621
Authority: WO
Inventors: Matthias Schweinsberg; Michael Baumscheiper; Burkhard Müller
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2009-12-10
Filing date: 2010-11-17
Publication date: 2011-06-16
Also published as: WO2011069786A3; DE102009054516A1; EP2509574A2; EP2509574B1

Abstract

The invention relates to an agent for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: at least one first solidifying anionic copolymer, comprising at least one structural unit of formula (I) and at least one structural unit of formula (II) and at least one structural unit of formula (III), R¹ being a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R² being a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R³ being a (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl group, a (C₂-C₆)hydroxyalkyl group or a *-(CH₂CH₂O)_n-(C₁-C₂₀)-alkyl group where n = 1 to 30, R⁴ and R⁵ being a hydrogen atom or one of the two remainders for a hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group and at least one second cross-linked anionic copolymer comprising at least one cross-linked polysiloxane structural unit and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V), where R⁶ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R⁷ stands for a (C₁ to C₂₀) alkyl group, a (C₂ to C₆) hydroxyalkyl group or a *-(CH₂CH₂O)_n-(C₁-C₂₀)-alkyl group where n = 1 to 30, G being a direct bond or a carbonyl group, R⁸ and R⁹ being a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals for a hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group, suitable for the temporary shaping of hair and producing shine, in particular as an aerosol hairspray or aerosol hair mousse.

Description

"Polymer combination for glossy cosmetic hair treatment products with strong hold and good hair feel"

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing at least one specific anionic copolymer derived from vinyl aromatic compounds in combination with at least one specific anionic copolymer having silicone groups, the use of these compositions for temporary shaping and / or care of keratin-containing fibers and aerosol sprays or aerosol foams this means.

In principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The first most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given. In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties relating to the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types.

In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers. Ideally, the polymers yield a polymer film even when used on a small amount on the hair, which on the one hand gives the hairstyle a strong hold, but on the other hand is sufficiently flexible so as not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff. In addition, the hair coated with a firming polymer often feels harsh.

Furthermore, the temporarily styled hair should look healthy and natural next to the strong hairstyle. The hair shine plays an outstanding role. Often therefore the hair styling agents so-called brighteners are added in sufficient quantity. These brighteners are, for example, oils or gloss pigments such as e.g. Mica particles. Glossy particles have the disadvantage of detaching themselves from the hair over time and, after some time, e.g. find again on clothes or facial skin. Oils complain the hair and sometimes lead to a deteriorated adhesion of the film-forming or firming polymers on the hair. This possibly leads to the disadvantage that the imprinted hairstyle can not be fixed by the film-forming or setting polymers over a sufficient duration. The hairstyle hangs faster.

Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for temporary deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available, which is characterized by a high degree of hold, excellent gloss on the keratin fibers and good sensor of the keratin fibers (in particular a soft hair feeling) causes.

It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved by a combination of a specific setting anionic copolymer with another specific crosslinked anionic copolymer. A first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula III

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₁ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group or a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) n- (C 1 to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

R and R ^a represent a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV)

or a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n - (C 1 to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

G represents a direct bond or a carbonyl group,

R ⁸ and R ^! are a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals for a

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group.

According to the above formulas and all the following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol ^{* stands} for a "free valence" of the corresponding structural fragment, to which "free valence" bind further structural fragments in the corresponding copolymer. This are previously described and optionally further structural fragments of the respective polymer.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers. As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used.

Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

For the purposes of the invention, "crosslinked" or "crosslinking" is the linking of polymer chains to one another by covalent chemical bonding to form a network. This covalent linkage of the polymer chains takes place through a bridging polysiloxane molecule fragment. The cross-linking polysiloxane molecule fragment binds to the polymer chains bridged by the molecule fragment, each by means of covalent chemical bonding.

According to the invention, an anionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which, in standard conditions, contains structural units with anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality in a protic solvent and has no structural units with permanently cationic or cationizable groups. Anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains the first reinforcing anionic copolymer in an amount of from 0.01 to 29.99% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 14.9% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 9.5% by weight. %, and most preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total ready-to-use agent. The composition of the invention preferably contains the second crosslinked anionic copolymer in an amount of 0.01 to 29.99 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, 1 to 14.9 wt .-%, most preferably from 0, 1 to 9.5 wt. %, and most preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total ready-to-use agent.

In addition, it has proved to be preferred if the agent according to the invention comprises a total amount of setting polymers of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 10 , 0 wt .-%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 6.0% by weight, each based on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent.

Preferably suitable first reinforcing anionic copolymers comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIb) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C-ι-C ₂ o) alkyl group or a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) n (Ci to _C2o) alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group,

R ⁴ and R ⁵ stand for a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals for a hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group.

Those agents according to the invention which have at least one or more of the following characteristics turned out to be particularly suitable for the first reinforcing anionic copolymer:

- Preferably, the radical R according to formula (I) is a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, R ³ according to formula (II) (or R ³ according to formula (IIa) and R ³ according to formula (IIb) independently of one another) is a methyl group, ethyl group, 2-hydroxyethyl group, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl group, n-propyl group , Isopropyl group, n-butyl group,

sec-butyl group or tert-butyl group.

R ³ according to formula (IIa) preferably represents a methyl group, ethyl group, n-propyl group, isopropyl group, n-butyl group, sec-butyl group or tert-butyl group.

Preferably, R ³ according to formula (IIb) is a 2-hydroxyethyl group or 2,3-dihydroxypropyl group.

Preferably, R ⁴ according to formula (III) is a hydrogen atom.

Preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention which, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, contain, in addition to said second crosslinked anionic copolymer, at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (Ci to C ₂ o) -alkyl group, or a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, and R ⁵ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

Furthermore, agents according to the invention have proven to be suitable in which in addition to the said second crosslinked anionic copolymer at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer is contained, comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and at least one structural unit of Formula (IIb) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (Ci to C ₂ o) -alkyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl group (especially 2-hydroxyethyl or 2,3-dihydroxypropyl),

R ⁵ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. The amount of the structural units of the formula (I) correspondingly contained in the first reinforcing anionic copolymer preferably corresponds to 30 to 60% by weight, particularly preferably 35 to 55% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the said polymer. This applies to all previously and later described embodiments mutatis mutandis.

The amount of the structural units of the formula (II) (or the sum of the structural units of the formulas (IIa) and (IIb)) corresponding to that contained in the first consolidating anionic copolymer preferably corresponds to 1 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 40% by weight. -%, most preferably from 10 to 40 wt .-%, each based on the weight of said polymer. This applies to all previously and later described embodiments mutatis mutandis.

The amount of the structural units of the formula (III) correspondingly contained in the first reinforcing anionic copolymer preferably corresponds to 5 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably 10 to 40% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the said polymer. This applies to all previously and later described embodiments mutatis mutandis.

Most preferably, the first anionic setting copolymer is an anionic copolymer prepared from monomers comprising monomers (a) and (b) and (c):

(a) styrene and / or alpha-methylstyrene (especially styrene),

(b) at least one monomer selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, n-propyl acrylate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, tert .-butyl methacrylate

(c) acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid.

In another embodiment, the first anionic setting copolymer is an anionic copolymer prepared from monomers comprising monomers (a) and (b1) and (b2) and (c):

(a) styrene and / or alpha-methylstyrene (especially styrene),

(b1) at least one monomer selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, n-propyl acrylate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate,

(b2) 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and / or 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate,

(c) acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid.

An example of a preferred first anionic setting polymer is a polymer having the INCI name Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer. The second anionic copolymer necessarily present in the composition according to the invention in addition to the first fixing copolymer is crosslinked. It was found that the effect of the invention was particularly pronounced when the bridging polysiloxane molecular fragment is derived from a polysiloxane, at the two ends of each chain at least one free-radically polymerizable functionality binds.

The second crosslinked anionic copolymer preferably has a molecular weight M _{w of} from 35,000 to 60,000 g / mol.

The crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit is in the second crosslinked anionic copolymer in an amount of 0, 1 to 50.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0, 1 to 40.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the polymer, contain. This applies to all previously and later described embodiments mutatis mutandis.

The amount of the structural units of the formula (IV) correspondingly contained in the second crosslinked anionic copolymer preferably corresponds to 30.0 to 99.4% by weight, particularly preferably 10 to 40% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the said polymer. This applies to all previously and later described embodiments mutatis mutandis.

The amount of the structural units of the formula (V) correspondingly contained in the second crosslinked anionic copolymer preferably corresponds to 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of said polymer. This applies to all previously and later described embodiments mutatis mutandis.

The second crosslinked anionic copolymer which has proven to be particularly suitable comprises at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit of the formula (PS) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV) and at least one structural unit of the formula (

R ° represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R ⁷ is a linear or branched (Ci to C ₂ o) alkyl group, linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₂ o) acyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group or a group ^* - (ΟΗ ₂ ΟΗ ₂ 0) _η - (Οι to C ₂₀ ) alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

G represents a direct bond or a carbonyl group,

R ⁸ and R ⁹ stand for a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals for a hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group,

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ⁰ , R ² , R ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms (in particular methyl or phenyl) or a (C 1 -C ₁₈ ) -alkoxy group (in particular methoxy or ethoxy),

m is an integer from 1 to 3

p is an integer from 10 to 1000,

X represents a direct bond or any molecular fragment.

X according to formula (PS) is particularly preferably a direct bond, a methylene group, ethane-1, 2-diyl, a group ^* -CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _x - ^* where x is 2 or 3 or a group ^* -CO-NH- (CH ₂ ) _X - ^* where x is 2 or 3.

Si-C-bonded in the context of the invention means that the said hydrocarbon radical binds via a covalent silicon-carbon bond to the silicone structure fragment according to formula (PS). m according to formula (PS) preferably stands for 1.

R ⁰ according to formula (PS) is preferably a methyl group.

R ² and R ³ according to formula (PS) are preferably a methyl group.

It is preferred according to the invention to select the polysiloxane structural unit under:

(PS-1)

wherein each p is an integer from 10 to 1000.

Most preferred polysiloxane structural units are selected from formula (PS-1), (PS-2), (PS-3) (most preferably of formula (PS-1)).

Those agents according to the invention which have at least one or more of the following properties turned out to be particularly suitable for the second crosslinked anionic copolymer:

Preferably, according to formula (IV) G is a carbonyl group, R ^{6 is} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and R ^{7 is} a methyl group, ethyl group, n-propyl group, isopropyl group, n-butyl group, sec-butyl group, tert-butyl group, 2-ethylhexyl group ,

Preferably, according to formula (IV) G is a direct bond, R ⁶ is a hydrogen atom and R ² represents an acetyl group, a propionyl group, a branched (C ₈ to Ci ₈₎ alkanoyl group (especially, a (C ₈ to C ₈₎ - isoalkanoyl group, more preferably a (C ₈ to d ₂ ) isoalkanoyl group, for example, isooctadecanoyl group, isononanoyl group or a neodecanoyl group).

Preferably, R ⁸ according to formula (V) is a methyl group and R ⁹ is a hydrogen atom.

Preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention which, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, contain, in addition to said first anchoring anionic copolymer, at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (PS) and at least one structural unit of formula (IV-1) and at least a structural unit of the formula (V-1)

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

RR ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18

Carbon atoms (especially methyl or phenyl) or a (Ci to d ₈ ) -

Alkoxy group (especially methoxy or ethoxy),

m is an integer from 1 to 3

P stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

X is a direct bond or any molecular fragment,

R is a linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₈ ) acyl group (especially (C ₈ to C ₁₂ ) isoalkanoyl, isononanoyl, neodecanoyl, acetyl, propionyl).

The aforementioned preferred meanings of the groups R ⁰ , R, R ² , R ³ or m, p, and X apply mutatis mutandis.

Compositions according to the invention are preferably suitable in which in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer, in addition to the said first fixing anionic copolymer, comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (PS-6) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V-1)

wherein

p is an integer from 10 to 1000,

R is, depending on one another, a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R stands for a linear or branched (C ₂ to d ₈₎ acyl group (particularly (C ₈ to Ci ₂₎ -lsoalkanoyl, isononanoylsarcosine, neodecanoyl, acetyl, propionyl).

Furthermore, agents according to the invention have been found to be particularly suitable in which in a cosmetically acceptable carrier in addition to said first anchoring anionic copolymer at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer containing at least one structural unit of formula (PS-1) and at least one structural unit of formula IV -1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V-1)

stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

stands for a linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₈₎ acyl group (particularly (C ₈ to Ci ₂₎ -lsoalkanoyl, isononanoylsarcosine, neodecanoyl, acetyl, propionyl).

Most preferably, the second anionic crosslinked copolymer is an anionic copolymer prepared from monomers comprising monomers (d) and (e) and (f):

(d) alpha, omega-divinylpolydimethylsiloxane of the formula

H ₂ C = CH-SiMe ₂ -0- (SiMe ₂ -O-) _p -SiMe ₂ -CH = CH ₂ with p = 10 to 1000,

(e) at least one monomer selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl isononanoate,

(f) crotonic acid and / or acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid (especially crotonic acid).

In a further embodiment, the second anionic crosslinked copolymer is an anionic copolymer prepared from monomers comprising monomers (d) and (e1) and (e2) and (f):

(d) alpha, omega-divinylpolydimethylsiloxane of the formula

(e1) at least one monomer selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate

(e2) at least one monomer selected from vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl isononanoate, (f) crotonic acid and / or acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid (in particular crotonic acid).

The second anionic crosslinked copolymers of the invention are for example available under the trade name Wacker Belsil ^® P101 by the company Wacker Chemie AG. Very particularly suitable agents according to the invention are the following named agents (A) to (L) by way of example:

(A):

Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C 1 -C ₂ 0) -alkyl group, or a (C ₂ -C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, and R ⁵ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit of the formula (PS) and at least one structural unit purity of the formula (V)

represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ⁷ represents a linear or branched (C 1 -C ₂ 0) -alkyl group, linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₂₀ ) -acyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group or a group

to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

G represents a direct bond or a carbonyl group,

R ⁸ and R ^£ are a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group,

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

12

R ¹⁰ , RR ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 Carbon atoms (especially methyl or phenyl) or a (Ci to d ₈ ) -

Alkoxy group (especially methoxy or ethoxy),

m is an integer from 1 to 3

P stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

X represents a direct bond or any molecular fragment.

(B):

wherein

R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (PS) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V-1)

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R 'R ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms (in particular methyl or phenyl) or a (Ci to Ci ₈ ) - alkoxy group (in particular methoxy or ethoxy),

m is an integer from 1 to 3

P stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

X is a direct bond or any molecular fragment, R is a linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₈ ) acyl group (especially for

(C ₈ to Ci ₂₎ -lsoalkanoyl, isononanoylsarcosine, neodecanoyl, acetyl, propionyl).

(C):

wherein

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (PS-1) and at least one structural unit of

wherein

p is an integer from 10 to 1000,

R stands for a linear or branched (C ₂ to d ₈₎ acyl group (particularly (C ₈ to Ci ₂₎ -lsoalkanoyl, isononanoylsarcosine, neodecanoyl, acetyl, propionyl).

(D):

at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIb) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C-ι-C ₂ o) alkyl group or a group * - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) n (Ci to _C2o) alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group,

R ⁴ and R ⁵ stand for a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals for a hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group

and

R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ⁷ represents a linear or branched (C ₁ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group, linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₂₀ ) -acyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group or a group

to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

G represents a direct bond or a carbonyl group,

R ⁸ and R ^£ are a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group,

represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ¹⁰ , R ¹² , R ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms (especially methyl or phenyl) or a (Ci to d ₈ ) alkoxy group (especially methoxy or ethoxy )

m is an integer from 1 to 3

P stands for an integer from 1 0 to 1000, X represents a direct bond or any molecular fragment.

(E):

at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIb) and at least one structural unit of

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group,

and

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R 'R ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms (in particular methyl or phenyl) or a (Ci to d ₈ ) -alkoxy group (in particular methoxy or ethoxy),

m is an integer from 1 to 3 P stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

X is a direct bond or any molecular fragment,

R is a linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₁₈ ) acyl group (in particular for

(C ₈ to C ₁₂ ) isoalkanoyl, isononanoyl, neodecanoyl, acetyl, propionyl).

(F):

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C 1 to C 20) -alkyl group or a group * - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n - (C 1 to C 20) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group,

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (PS-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V-1)

wherein

p is an integer from 10 to 1000,

(G): Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer comprising, based in each case on the weight of the polymer, 30 to 60% by weight of at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and 1 to 50% by weight of at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and 5 to 50 Wt .-% of at least one structural unit of the formula

wherein

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (Ci to C ₂ o) -alkyl group, or a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, and R ⁵ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising in each case based on the weight of the polymer 0, 1 to 50 wt .-% of at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit of the formula (PS) and 30 to 99.4 wt .-% of at least one structural unit of

% of at least one structural unit of the formula (V)

R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

G represents a direct bond or a carbonyl group,

R ⁸ and R ^£ are a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group,

R ¹¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ¹⁰ , R ¹² , R ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms (especially methyl or phenyl) or a (Ci to d ₈ ) alkoxy group (especially methoxy or ethoxy ) m is an integer from 1 to 3

P stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

X represents a direct bond or any molecular fragment.

(H):

wherein

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising, based in each case on the weight of the polymer, from 0.1 to 50% by weight of at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit of the formula (PS) and from 30 to 99.4% by weight of at least one structural unit of the formula ( IV-1) and 0.5 to 14.0 wt .-% of at least one structural unit of the formula (V-1)

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

m is an integer from 1 to 3

P stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

X is a direct bond or any molecular fragment, R stands for a linear or branched (C ₂ to d ₈₎ acyl group (particularly (C ₈ to Ci ₂₎ -lsoalkanoyl, isononanoylsarcosine, neodecanoyl, acetyl, propionyl).

(I):

at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer comprising, based in each case on the weight of the polymer, 30 to 60% by weight of at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and 1 to 50% by weight of at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and 5 to 50 % By weight of at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C 1 -C ₂ 0) -alkyl group, or a (C ₂ -C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, and R ⁵ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising in each case based on the weight of the polymer 0, 1 to 50 wt .-% of at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit of the formula (PS-1) and 30 to 99.4 wt .-% of at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-1) and 0.5 to 14.0 wt% of at least one structural unit of the formula (V-1)

(V-1) wherein

p is an integer from 10 to 1000,

(J):

at least one first anchoring anionic copolymer comprising, based in each case on the weight of the polymer, 30 to 60% by weight of at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and 1 to 50% by weight in total of at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and ( IIb) and 5 to 50 wt .-% of at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group,

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising in each case based on the weight of the polymer 0, 1 to 50 wt .-% of at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit of the formula (PS) and 30 to 99.4 wt .-% of at least one structural unit of formula IV -1) and 0.5 to 14.0 wt .-% of at least one structural unit of the formula (V-1)

R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

G represents a direct bond or a carbonyl group,

R ⁸ and R ^£ are a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group,

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

12

R ¹⁰ , RR ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms (in particular methyl or phenyl) or a (Ci to d ₈ ) -alkoxy group (in particular methoxy or ethoxy),

m is an integer from 1 to 3 P stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

X represents a direct bond or any molecular fragment.

(K):

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group,

and

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R 'R ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 Carbon atoms (especially methyl or phenyl) or a (Ci to d ₈ ) -

Alkoxy group (especially methoxy or ethoxy),

m is an integer from 1 to 3

P stands for an integer from 10 to 1000,

X is a direct bond or any molecular fragment,

R stands for a linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₈₎ acyl group (particularly for

(L):

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ^{2 *} represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group,

and

wherein p is an integer from 10 to 1000,

All the aforementioned preferred parameters also apply, mutatis mutandis, to the particularly suitable embodiments (A) to (L) mentioned by way of example.

The compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.

In the context of a preferred embodiment of the agent according to the invention, the agent therefore additionally contains at least one alcohol which has 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 hydroxyl groups. This additional alcohol is again preferably selected from at least one compound of the group formed from ethanol, ethylene glycol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, glycerol, n-butanol, 1,3-butylene glycol. A most preferred alcohol is ethanol.

The additional alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 hydroxyl groups is preferably in the composition according to the invention (in particular in the presence of at least one blowing agent) in an amount of 40 wt .-% to 65 wt .-%, in particular 40 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition containing.

As additional co-solvents may be included organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are polyethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.

In particular, the addition of propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. So if a flexible stop is desired, contain the inventive Agent preferably 0.01 to 30 wt .-% of polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol based on the total agent.

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.

The effects according to the invention can be increased by adding at least one (C ₂ to C ₆ ) trialkyl citrate to the composition according to the invention. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the agents additionally contain at least one compound of the formula (E)

wherein

R, R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group.

Examples of a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group according to formula (E) are methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, neopentyl, isopentyl, n hexyl.

As a particularly preferred compound of formula (E) turned out triethyl citrate.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains the compounds of the formula (E) in an amount of from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the entire composition.

The agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic and ampholytic surfactants in particular being suitable. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity. The use of at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one cationic surfactant is preferred in this embodiment of the invention.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .

with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C 12 -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or

Sovermol - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (T-1)

R CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (Tl)

in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 .

Amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (T-I),

R ⁴ 0- [G] _p (T-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (T-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the single molecule must always be an integer, and above all can assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having a mean degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.

The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ^® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis).

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, you can be contained in the molecule glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

Ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0 (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) _x -OS0 ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates .

sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (T-V),

O II

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - 0 - p --OR ²

I

^0X (TV)

in the R preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n R or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,

sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (T-VI)

R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (T-VI) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation,

amide ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^<_) in the molecule - carry or -S0 ₃ ^<_) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ - C ₂ 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts , Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C12 - Ci ₈ - sarcosine. The agents according to the invention may optionally additionally contain at least one film-forming polymer and / or setting polymer. These additional polymers are different from the first film-forming anionic copolymer and the second crosslinked anionic copolymer. The optionally added film-forming and / or setting polymers are preferably cationic and / or nonionic.

The cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

In general, such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.

Of these, among the cationic cellulose derivatives are those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch.

Also suitable are those cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (M-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-VI) and optionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M-V)

wherein

R and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

A and A ² are each independently a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or

Butane-1, 4-diyl,

RR ²² , RR ³³ , RR ⁵⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group. To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (M-VI) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Suitable compounds are, for example, as

Copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1, under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® 755 (each ISP), and Luviquat PQ 1 1 PN (BASF SE),

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl chloride with Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 available under the trade name Styleze W-10 ^®, ^® Styleze W-20 (ISP)

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) - methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69) under the trade name Aqua Style ^® 300 (28-32 wt .-% active substance in ethanol-water mixture) (company ISP)

available in the stores.

When film-forming and / or setting polymers selected from cationic polymers containing at least one structural unit which have a permanently cationized nitrogen atom are particularly preferably used, cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula ( M1)

"(M1)

wherein

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,

and additionally have at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the component are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate. In turn, it is preferred according to the invention if the cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer of this embodiment contains at least one copolymer (b1) which, in addition to at least h, comprises a structural element of the formula (III)

wherein

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (b1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (b1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units according to formula (M-I) ·

It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (M1) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (b1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1) where R "= methyl and (M-1) and can be represented by the general formula (polyl)

^{CH; 3} (polyl)

describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (M1) and of the formula (III) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner. Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) used a chloride ion, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI Nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) is a methosulfate used, these N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (b1) or at its point or place, pulverulent compositions according to the invention may also contain copolymers (b2) which, starting from the copolymer (b1), comprise structural units of the formula ## STR5 ## as additional structural units

Further particularly preferred pulverulent compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they comprise as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (b2) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 -a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M-1)

(M-II).

Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b2) contain not more than 5% by weight of polymer units which result from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1 -a), (III) and (M-II) into the copolymer. , preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (b2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (M1) and (M-II) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly2)

describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidon / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Hold by BASF ,

Very particularly preferred copolymers (b2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol% and in particular 40 mol% of structural units of the formula (I) and 40 to 60 mol%, preferably 45 to 55 mol% and in particular 60 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-II) ,

In addition to the copolymer (s) (b1) and / or (b2) or at its point, the powdery compositions according to the invention may also contain copolymers (b3) as structural units which form as structural units as film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer Structural units of the formulas (M1-a) and (I), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.

Further particularly preferred pulverulent compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (b3), the at least one structural unit of formula (M1 -a) and at least one structural unit of formula (Ml) and contains at least one structural unit of formula (M-VII) and at least one structural unit of formula (M-VIII)

(M-VII) (M-VIII).

In this case too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b3) result not only in polymer units which result from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (III), (M-VII) and (M-VIII) into the copolymer, not more than 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (b3) are exclusively from structural units of the formula (M1-a), (M-1), (M-VII), a formula (poly3)

³ (Poly3)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (M-1), (M-VII) and (M-VIII) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / VinylpyrrolidonA / inylimidazol / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (b3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol% and in particular 55 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-I) and 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-) VII) and 20 to 40 mol%, preferably 25 to 35 mol% and in particular 29 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-VIII). Among the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (M1), the following are preferred:

Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat ^® HM 552 (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ^® (BASF SE)),

VinylpyrrolidonA inylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat Hold ^® (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / MethacrylamidA inylimidazol / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H- imidazolium copolymer (such as sold under the trade name Luviquat ^® Supreme (with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 BASF SE)), as well as mixtures of these polymers.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the pulverulent compositions of the invention comprise at least one film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer as the film-forming and / or setting polymer.

According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which, in a protic solvent under standard conditions, carries substantially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Quaternized ammonium groups, however, do not include protonated amines under cationic groups. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 15.0% by weight .-%, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the powdered composition of the invention.

Again, the film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers are preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group that is formed

Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,

nonionic copolymers of isobutene, nonionic copolymers of maleic anhydride.

Preferred is a combination of film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers comprising at least one nonionic copolymer of maleic anhydride and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone.

Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE.

Suitable polyvinyl alcohols are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products.

Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ^® as an emulsion from Air Products.

Means comprising as film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group formed from

Copolymer of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether,

polyvinylpyrrolidone,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18

Carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (Ci to C ₄₎ alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄₎ - alkyl acrylamide,

or mixtures of these polymers are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

In this case, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer comprised of the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30:70 to 60:40 ,

Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE. Further preferred pulverulent compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer at least one copolymer (n1) containing at least one structural unit of formula (Ml) and at least one structural unit of formula (M-VII) and contains at least one structural unit according to formula (M-VIII)

In this case too, it is particularly preferred if, in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) into the copolymer, these copolymers have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (n1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) and can be represented by the general formula (poly4)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (I), (VII) and (VIII) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

A particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers of the INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

Furthermore, according to the invention, those pulverulent compositions which comprise at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer are suitable, comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

X ^{1 represents} an oxygen atom or a group NH,

A is a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl

R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group.

In this case, it is particularly preferred if the above nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer is selected from at least one polymer which fulfills at least one or more of the following features:

R is a methyl group,

X ¹ stands for a group NH,

A is ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl,

R ² and R ³ , independently of one another, represent methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl).

The nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer of this embodiment is particularly preferably at least one polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III-8),

A most preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic setting polymer of this embodiment is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminiopropylmethacrylamide, which is exemplified by the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer is sold, for example, under the trade name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.

As a care substance, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate.

The protein hydrolysates may be present in the agents according to the invention, for example in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of from 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total application preparation.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred. As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention. If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture. Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts. The compositions of the invention contain these care substances preferably in amounts of 0.001 to 2, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (ß- hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl ) - amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodi phenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4- Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Preference is given to using cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred are

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

(b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as

(C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908, to which reference is explicitly made at this point in claims 6 to 1 1 are called. Very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are the dyes known under the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It is preferred according to the invention that the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.

In addition to the components mentioned, the agents may furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. Bentonite, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol, and optionally crosslinked polyacrylates,

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Substances for adjusting the pH, such as conventional acids, in particular

Pleasure acids, and bases,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,

Hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

Preservatives,

Antioxidants. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as a lotion or pump or aerosol spray, or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.

The agents according to the invention are preferably designed as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam. For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device which either represents an additional compressed gas container ("aerosol container") filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container By definition, the term "non-aerosol container" is defined as a container under normal pressure, with the aid of which a product is distributed by mechanical action through a pumping or squeezing system.

With particular preference the agents according to the invention are present as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.

Compositions according to the invention which are in the form of an aerosol product can be prepared in a conventional manner. In general, all constituents of the composition according to the invention, with the exception of the blowing agent, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

In the embodiment as an aerosol spray suitable blowing agents according to the invention are for example selected from N ₂ 0, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons. The propellant is in the inventive compositions of the embodiment as aerosol spray preferably in an amount of 30 to 60 wt .-% - based on the weight of the total composition - included.

Very particular preference is given to using mixtures of propane and butane as the sole blowing agent in a weight ratio of propane to butane of from 20:80 to 15:85. These mixtures are again preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 30 to 55% by weight the weight of the entire agent - used. Butane according to the invention is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

The spray rate of the sprays according to the invention is preferably 6.5 to 10.0 g / 10 s.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention (aerosol sprays) are packaged in an aerosol container with a star valve with a bore of 0.27 to 0.35 mm diameter. Such valves are sold, for example, as valves of the type KE or KEN from the company. Coster.

In the embodiment as aerosol foam suitable propellants are for example selected from N ₂ 0, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons. According to the embodiment of an aerosol foam, the alkanes mentioned, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are preferably used as the sole blowing agent. Particularly preferred blowing agents are dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

When conventional aerosol containers are used, aerosol foam products preferably contain the propellant in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.

The use of the abovementioned additional preferred ingredients and the quantities or ratios (vide supra) designated as being preferred are, of course, also preferred in the context of all aerosol foam embodiments.

The compositions according to the invention and products which contain the agents according to the invention, in particular aerosol hair sprays and aerosol hair foams, are distinguished, in particular, by giving treated hair a very natural gloss and strong hold. A second object of the invention is the use of a composition of the first subject of the invention for producing gloss on keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.

The products according to the invention which contain these agents, in particular aerosol hair sprays, are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair remains flexible. A third aspect of the invention is therefore the use of a composition of the first subject of the invention for the temporary deformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.

A fourth subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to the first subject of the invention is applied as a spray to the keratin-containing fibers using a dispensing device.

It is inventively preferred that the keratin-containing fibers are brought into shape and this form is fixed by the means of the first subject of the invention.

It is furthermore preferred if, after the application of the agent according to the invention, the agent according to the invention remains from the keratin-containing fibers, i. is not rinsed out again.

Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned dispensers or aerosol products (vide supra). A fifth subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is foamed to a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.

Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned dispensers (vide supra).

B e i s p e e l e

1.0 B e i p e r e p o rt e n

The following formulations were prepared by mixing the specified raw materials and filled into an aerosol can with a valve from Coster, type KE and a swirl nozzle from Coster "Standard micromist insert", type V06 The following amounts are understood - unless otherwise stated - in percent by weight.

Table 1: Recipes & Comparative Formulations

* Active substance in polymer

INCI name: Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (National Starch)

² -lsoalkylestern crosslinked copolymer of crotonic acid, vinyl (C ₈ to Ci ₂₎ and alpha, omega-vinyldimethicone (acid value [mg KOH / g polymer]: 28-33) (Wacker Chemie AG)

³ -lsoalkylestern crosslinked copolymer of crotonic acid, vinyl (C ₈ to Ci ₂₎ and alpha, omega-vinyldimethicone (acid value [mg KOH / g polymer]: 63)

⁴ crosslinked copolymer of crotonic acid, vinyl (C ₈ to C ₁₂ ) isoalkyl esters and alpha, omega-vinyldimethicone (acid number [mg KOH / g polymer]: 50

⁵ -lsoalkylestern crosslinked copolymer of crotonic acid, vinyl (C ₈ to Ci ₂₎ and alpha, omega-vinyldimethicone (acid value [mg KOH / g polymer]: 32)

After application of the funds E1 to E4 per strand of hair caused these compositions of the invention excellent, hairstyle hold. The hair received a natural glow and felt supple. The comparative formulations V1 to V4 reached after Application on each strand of hair a poorer hair feel, and lower gloss parameters or hairstyle holding parameters.

2.0 T o m e n t i o n s h a t s

2.1 Three-point bending test

The strands of hair (Kerling Internationale Haarfabrik GmbH, article number 826500 Kleβesse dicht, type: European natural, color: 6/0, free hair length 130 mm, width 20 mm, weight 1.8 g, glued at one end) were in 1 I to 50 ° C tempered water containing 4 mL of a 25 wt .-% aqueous sodium laureth sulfate solution, and washed using ultrasound for 15 minutes. The tresses were rinsed thoroughly with lukewarm water and then combed. The water was gently squeezed out of the hair by thumb and forefinger. This provision was performed three times per tress in total.

The strands of hair were hung at one end on a frame. A weight was attached to the other end of the strand so that the hair hung straight down. The upper half and lower half of one strand side were sprayed with one of the test hair sprays each from a distance of 30 cm for a period of 10 seconds. The frame was rotated 180 ° and the opposite side of the previously sprayed side was also sprayed as previously described. The hair strands were dried overnight at 296 K and a relative humidity of 50%. Afterwards, the strands were carefully removed from the frame.

For each test hair spray, 5 strands of hair were prepared and the Lloyd Intruments LF Plus instrument was used to determine the maximum force applied until the polymer film fractured, at the beginning of the test, the tester's load stamp was 40 mm from the test piece and was run at a speed of 500 The mean values of the measurements were calculated and checked for statistical significance by Student's t-test All values were statistically significant with the following results:

Table 2: Measurement results & expected value

Hairspray (see Table 1) Fmax / N Expected value F _max / N Difference to expected value

V1 7.1 - -

V2 6.3 - -

V3 4.2 - -

V4 5.8 5.3 + 0.5

E4 6.7 5.7 + 1, 0 The degree of hold of the mixture E4 according to the invention is higher than the calculated expected value of the mixture. Furthermore, the degree of hold of E4 decreases significantly less as compared to the degree of hold of a mixture of amphomer and the crosslinked anionic copolymer (V4). The polymer combination according to the invention accordingly achieves, in addition to excellent parameters regarding gloss and hair feel, an optimally durable styling.

Claims

P a n t a n s p r e c h e

1. Agent for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

wherein

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ represents a (C ₁ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group or a group * - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n - (C 1 to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

R and R ^a represent a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group

and

at least one second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprising at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit and at least one structural unit of the formula

means a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group or a group * - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n - (C 1 to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl where n = 1 to 30,

G represents a direct bond or a carbonyl group,

R ⁸ and R ⁹ represent a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group.

Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the first reinforcing anionic copolymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIb) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III) includes

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C-ι-C ₂ o) alkyl group or a group * - _(CH2 CH20) n- (Ci to _C2o) alkyl, with n = 1 to 30

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group,

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the radical R according to formula (I) represents a hydrogen atom.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R ³ according to formula (II) (or R ³ according to formula (IIa) and R ³ according to formula (IIb) independently of one another) represent a methyl group, ethyl group, 2 Hydroxyethyl, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or tert-butyl.

5. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that R ³ according to formula (IIa) is a methyl group, ethyl group, n-propyl group, isopropyl group, n-butyl group, sec-butyl group or tert-butyl group.

6. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that R ^{3 *} according to formula (IIb) is a 2-hydroxyethyl group or 2,3-dihydroxypropyl group.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the first anchoring anionic copolymer preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 29.99 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 14.9 wt .-%, especially preferably from 0. 1 to 9.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total ready-to-use agent.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the second crosslinked anionic copolymer comprises at least one crosslinking polysiloxane structural unit of the formula (PS) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V)

R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ⁷ is a linear or branched (Ci to C ₂ o) alkyl group, linear or branched (C ₂ to C ₂ o) acyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) hydroxyalkyl group or a group

to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl with n = 1 to 30,

G represents a direct bond or a carbonyl group,

R ⁸ and R ^: represent a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group,

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

12

R ¹⁰ , RR ³ independently of one another represent a monovalent, Si-C-bonded, optionally substituted hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms (in particular methyl or phenyl) or a (C 1 -C ₁₈ ) -alkoxy group (in particular methoxy or ethoxy) .

is an integer from 1 to 3

is an integer from 1 0 to 1000,

represents a direct bond or any molecular fragment. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the second crosslinked anionic copolymer crosslinking structural unit of the formula (PS) comprises at least one crosslinking structural unit of the formula (PS-1)

(PS-1), wherein p stands for an integer of 10 to 1000.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the second crosslinked anionic copolymer is preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 29.99 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, 1 to 14.9 wt .-%, especially preferably from 0. 1 to 9.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total ready-to-use agent.

1 1. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one surfactant.

12. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 for the production of gloss on keratin fibers, in particular human hair.

13. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 for the temporary deformation of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.

14. A process for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 is applied as a spray on the keratin-containing fibers using a dispenser.

15. A process for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 foamed into a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin fibers.