EP2291169A1

EP2291169A1 - Composition for keratinous fibres, comprising at least one specific betaine compound and at least one film-forming and/or setting polymer

Info

Publication number: EP2291169A1
Application number: EP09772308A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Burkhard Müller; Pamela Kaftan
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2008-07-01
Filing date: 2009-06-16
Publication date: 2011-03-09
Also published as: WO2010000608A1; WO2010000608A9; DE102008030661A1

Abstract

Compositions for treating keratinous fibres, especially human hair, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle (a) at least one betaine compound of the formula (I) or its protonated form, in which R1 is a (C4 toC12) alkyl group, and R2 and R3 each independently are a (C1 to C4) alkyl group, and (b) at least one film-forming and/or setting polymer, the use of the compositions for the temporary shaping of hair and for haircare, in particular as hair mousse.

Description

"Agent for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one specific betaine compound and at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer"

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing a combination of at least one specific betaine compound with at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, the use of these agents for temporary deformation and / or care keratinhaltiger fibers and aerosol hair foams based on these agents.

In principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc. Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer may preferably be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair. The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties which affect the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. To name in particular Moisture resistance, low tack and a well-balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling middle I should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types. In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.

Developing styling agents that have all the desired properties in combination is still difficult. In particular, this applies to the combination of strong hold on the one hand and simple, uniform application to the keratinous fibers on the other. Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for temporary deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available, which is characterized by a high degree of hold or by a high care effect and in particular excellent handling during application to the keratin fibers has. It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved by the invention described in detail below. A first object of the present invention is an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one betaine compound of formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₁₂ ) -alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently of one another are a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer.

The protonated form is obtained, for example, by acidification of a solution of the compounds of the above formula (I) with mineral acids such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid and / or with organic acids such as citric acid or tartaric acid. According to the invention, particularly preferred agents which contain betaine compounds of formula (I) are those in which R ^{1 is} a (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkyl group, in particular a (C ₈ to C ₁₀ ) -alkyl group.

The above-mentioned betaine compounds of the formula (I) are particularly preferably used when, according to formula (I), R ² and R ^{3 are} a methyl group.

Betaine compounds having the formula (I) are for example sold under the trade designation Tego betaine ^® 810 (as an aqueous solution of 35 wt .-% of active substance with the INCI name caprylic / Capramidopropyl Betaine) from Evonik.

The betaine compounds of the formula (I) are preferably in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.02% by weight to 2% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition in which means are included.

In addition, those agents according to the invention are preferred in which, if compounds of the formula (II) or their protonated forms are contained,

wherein

R ^{4 is} an alkyl group having more than 10 carbon atoms carbon atoms,

R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another are a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, the weight ratio of the compounds of the formula (I) to the compounds of the formula (II) is at least 0.2; more preferably at least 0.5; most preferably at least 1; most preferably at least 2.

The agents according to the invention are preferably present as aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam, in particular as pump foam or even more advantageously as aerosol foam. The following preferred viscosity adjustment proves to be particularly advantageous in the context of packaging as aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam, in particular as pump foam or even more advantageously as aerosol foam. Here, it has proved to be advantageous when the inventive composition preferably has a viscosity of not more than 10,000 mPa s, preferably of at most 5000 mPa s, particularly preferably of a maximum of 2500 mPas (both measured at 2O ⁰ C with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 10 rpm). Pumping and in particular aerosol foams which are produced from the agents according to the invention have, in particular, adherence to the abovementioned viscosity criterion, a foam which is stable over a relatively long period of time and has a fine-pored and creamy surface which can be dispensed excellently and can be uniformly distributed in the hair simply and without running down. Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a foam.

Furthermore, the agent according to the invention contains, in addition to the previously defined betaine compounds of the formula (I), at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer.

Among the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers is the film formation. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin. According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers. As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used.

Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is, show several applications-wise desirable effects, numerous polymers can be found in several groups on the mode of action, as well as in the CTFA Handbook.

The composition of the invention preferably comprises at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from non-ionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic polymers.

The film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, most preferably from 2.0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition. These quantities also apply to all subsequent preferred types of film-forming agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention and / or setting polymers. If differing preferred quantities have been specified below, the latter are considered to be even more preferred amounts.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to those compositions which contain, in addition to the previously defined betaine compound, at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer which is selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers (in particular homopolymers of the group) N-vinylpyrrolidones, nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam, copolymers of (meth) acrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate), nonionic cellulose derivatives, starch and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic Copolymers of the 3- (C 1 -C ₆ ) -alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazolinium, homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium, homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M1)) wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, amphoteric copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkylacrylamide, amphoteric Copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkyl methacrylamide, anionic polymers having carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, anionic polyurethanes.

Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) acyl group, R "and R""independently represent a (Ci to C ₇ ) -alkyl group or a

Hydrogen atom R '"represents a linear or branched (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -

Hydroxyalkyl.

In the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond indicated by the symbol * represents a free valence of the corresponding structural fragment.

Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide , Alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers from (Ci to C ₃ ) alkyl groups are selected. Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (d- to C ₃₀ ) acyl group, in particular a

Hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.

In the context of this embodiment, agents are therefore particularly preferred according to the invention, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one betaine compound of formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₂ ) alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently of one another denote a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer

Base of ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one of the following

structural units wherein

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C ₃₀ ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.

Furthermore, for the abovementioned embodiments of the invention, in each case the already defined preferred representatives of the betaine compound of the formula (I) (vide supra) are also preferred. The same applies to the previously defined preferred amounts of the betaine compound of the formula (I) (vide supra). The viscosity of the agent according to the invention previously defined as preferred also applies as preferred (vide supra) for the particular embodiments mentioned above.

Particularly suitable are homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam or vinyl pyrrolidone (such as Luviskol ^® K 90, Luviskol ^® K 85 and Luviskol Plus from BASF SE), copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA are marketed by BASF SE 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides (such as Akypomine ^® P 191 (from the company CHEM-Y), polyvinyl alcohols, for example, under the marketed tradenames Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (such as Luviset.RTM ^® Clear from BASF SE).

In addition to the nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable for use as film-forming and / or setting polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ^® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg), hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as (e.g., under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® - Types (Hercules) are distributed.

Within the scope of a further embodiment, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises as nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (CeIM) in which

R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, in which

R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of R is a previously defined (Ci to C ₆ ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero.

Such celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (CeIM) are preferably present in the agent according to the invention which, according to the formula (CeIM) as the radical R, independently of one another, is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an isopropyl group, a group. CH ₂ CH ₂ - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _P -OH, wherein p is an integer greater than or equal to zero, or a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH, where q is a denotes an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group or an isopropyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a group -CH ₂ CH ₂ - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _{P is} -OH or -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH.

Particularly preferred agents include those celluloses having at least one structural element of the formula (CeIM), according to which R is independently a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH, where q is a is an integer, with the proviso that at least one of R represents a methyl group and at least one of R represents a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH.

An especially preferred suitable cellulose of formula (CEIM) is the hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, 50 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, white powder) under the trade name Tegocel ^® from Evonik example, as Tegocel ^® HPM, Tegocel ^® HPM 4000 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, white powder), Tegocel ^® fluid HPM 50 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl methylcellulose) and Tegocel ^® fluid HPM 4000 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pre-swollen hydroxypropyl methylcellulose).

Preferred agents according to the invention comprising the celluloses having at least one structural unit of the previously defined formula (CeIM) in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5 , 0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.2 to 2.0 wt.%, In each case based on the weight of the composition.

As a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention are those agents comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one betaine compound of formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₁₂ ) -alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl group, and (b) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer.

It has been found, in particular in the context of this embodiment, that by combining the component (a) with the cationic polymers (b) keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, surprisingly (in addition to the excellent properties in terms of manageability, hairstyle content and the achieved volume) experienced a slightly improved care.

Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Homopolymers of the general formula (M 1) described above, in which R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkyl, (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^'is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, such as copolymers consisting essentially of those listed in formula (M 1)

Monomer units as well as nonionic monomer units are particularly preferably suitable cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers. In the context of this

Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following

Conditions apply:

R ² is a methyl group; R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are methyl groups, m is 2 or

Third

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^"of the formula (M1) are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions Preferred are halide ions, in particular chloride.

Furthermore, for the abovementioned embodiments of the invention, the already defined preferred representatives of the betaine compound of the formula (I) (vide supra) are also preferred. The same applies to the previously defined preferred amounts of the betaine compounds of the formula (I) (vide supra). The viscosity of the agent according to the invention previously defined as preferred also applies as preferred (vide supra) for the particular embodiments mentioned above.

A highly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (Ethnichem), for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH are commercially available. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of multiply olefinically unsaturated compounds. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (M9) as non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid alkyl esters CI_ _4-C-ι- ₄ -alkyl. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be used as in the case of the homopolymers above described, be networked. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Copolymers of quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylate and methacrylate are particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers.

In the context of this embodiment, agents which are particularly preferred for the purposes of the present invention comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a), at least one betaine compound of the formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₁₂ ) -alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently of one another denote a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one

Structure element of the formula (M 10) contains

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ', R "and R" independently of one another represent a (Ci to C ₂ o) -alkyl group,

X is an oxygen atom or a group NH,

A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group, n is 1 or 3.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, Tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Such compounds are commercially available, for example as

Copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-11 755 (both from ISP), and Luviquat under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® PQ 11 PN (BASF SE),

Copolymers with vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl chloride with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 from Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium under the trade name Styleze W-10 ^®, ^® Styleze W-20 (ISP).

Furthermore, according to the invention, the cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives. In the context of this embodiment, for the purposes of the present invention, agents which are particularly preferred contain, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a), at least one betaine compound of the formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₁₂ ) -alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently of one another denote a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from the group of the cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch.

Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore serve those cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing agents

Copolymers containing at least one nt of the formula (M11)) wherein R is a (Ci to C ₄ ) alkyl group (in particular a methyl group), and additionally at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

For the purposes of the present invention, agents which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier are considered to be particularly preferred

(a) at least one betaine compound of formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₁₂ ) -alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently of one another denote a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymer which comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M11)

wherein R is a (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group), and additionally has at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

Including vinylpyrrolidone / IΛ'inyl-3-methyl-I H-imidazolium chloride copolymers are (for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium 16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat HM 552 ^® (BASF SE)), vinyl pyrrolidone / i-vinyl-3-methyl-I H-imidazolium copolymers (such as that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / i-vinyl-3-methyl-I H- imidazolium Terpolynner (such as that with the INCI Designation Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat ^® Hold (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole / i-vinyl-S-methyl-I H-imidazoliummethylsulfat- copolymer (such as that with the INCI name Polyquaternium -68 under the trade name Luviquat ^® Supreme (BASF SE)).

Other cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.

These polymers include, for example, chitosans. Chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are very particularly preferably suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers in the context of the present invention.

In the context of this embodiment, agents are therefore very particularly preferred according to the invention, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one betaine compound of the formula (I) or their protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₂ ) alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently of one another denote a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from chitosan and its derivatives.

Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.

Preferably used are those having an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88%, and a Have ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.

Suitable chitosan (derivatives) are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ^® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ^® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ^® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ^® NB / commercially 101 freely available.

The chitosan or its derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

Furthermore, for this embodiment of the invention, the already defined preferred representatives of the betaine compound of the formula (I) (vide supra) are also preferred. The same applies to the previously defined preferred amounts of the betaine compounds of the formula (I) (vide supra). As in the context of the invention preferably suitable temporary cationic polymers are also those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M 1-1) to (M 1-8)

(M 1-4)

In this case, preference is again given to those copolymers which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M10), (M10) where n is the number 1 or 3.

(: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di- methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer under the trade name Gaffix ^® VC 713 (ISP), for example, INCI name), VinylpyrrolidonΛ / / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide inylcaprolactam Here again the group of polymers of vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer applies copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ^® SF-40 (ISP)),

Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a .35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / P / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)), vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer,

(For example, INCI name: VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-IO (ISP)), as a preferred list for selection.

Moreover, it proved to be particularly advantageous if the inventive compositions a

combination of

(a) at least one betaine compound of the previously defined formula (I),

(b1) at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing

Polymer and

(b2) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymer.

Of course, the above-defined preferred embodiments with regard to the structure or amount of the betaine compound of the formula (I) and the amounts which are preferably suitable and also representatives of the polymers (b1) and (b2) apply to this embodiment. Furthermore, the agents of this embodiment are also preferably present as aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam, in particular as pump foam or even more advantageously as aerosol foam

The compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^' or -SO ₃ ^' groups and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

One example of an inventively amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.

The latter have in addition to the cationogenic group or positively charged group at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. In the context of the present invention, preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together

A) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Z-I),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ⁽⁾ (ZI)

In the R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and

B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (Z-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (Z-I) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{() is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate -Ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (Z-II). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (Z-II) for the stated polymers.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, wherein as alkylating reagents methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate are particularly suitable. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, those monomers of formula (ZI) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (ZI) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups.

The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of formula (Z-I).

Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

Furthermore, at least one anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer can be used as the film-forming and / or setting polymers.

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci ₃ -Ci ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Other preferred anionic polymers are selected from the group which is formed from copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (such as, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ^® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a 60 wt % dispersion in isopropanol-water), copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (as, for example, under the trade name Luviflex ^® Soft having an acid number of 84 to 105 under the INCI name Acrylates copolymer in an approximately 20 to 30 wt. Polyurethane with at least one carboxyl group (such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as it is available under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI -% dispersion in water). Term Polyurethane-1 is sold by the company BASF SE).

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

In order to intensify the effect according to the invention, the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one further surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes, each of which is different from the betaine compounds of formula (I). The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one nonionic surfactant. In this case, it is again preferable to use such agents according to the invention for achieving the object, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one betaine compound of formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₁₂ ) -alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently of one another are a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, and

(B) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer, (in particular selected from chitosan and its derivatives) and

(c) at least one nonionic surfactant.

It has been found, in particular in the context of this embodiment, that by the combination of components (a) and (b) and (c) keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, surprisingly disproportionately improved care.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

- Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

- with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

- polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), - alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

- R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20,

- amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length of C ₈ -C ₀ (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₈ coconut oil fatty alcohol and having a content of less than 6 wt .-% C ₁₂ - Alcohol can be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _{9 /} n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated _{C12 /} i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3

The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,

With very particular preference the agents according to the invention contain as surfactant at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular of from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide to a linear or branched (especially linear) fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ^® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis).

Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention of this embodiment are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one betaine compound of formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₁₂ ) -alkyl group,

(c) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group formed

Addition products of 2 to 100 mol (in particular 15 to 50 mol) of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C

atoms,

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles (especially 15 to 50 moles) of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol

Ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (Soaps), ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides with 8 up to 24 C Atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of hydroxysulfonate surfactants, sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of sth a 2-15 molecules represent ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),

O

Il

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P - OR ² (EM)

I OX in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen Alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E 1-11)

R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (EMI) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _Z - SO ₃ X in the R ⁸ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal, preferably monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide ether carboxylic acids, condensation products of C ₈ -C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ ⁽⁾ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate the, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine.

The compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.

As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 ⁰ C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent be present on the total composition. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and Cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent. In particular, the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. Thus, if a flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ^° C., unless stated otherwise.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned. As a care material, for example, a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used. Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes. Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.

Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. Preferably, those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

The agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent. As a care substance of another class of compounds, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess and Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold. Particularly interesting is the use of silk protein hydrolysates. Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents. Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, eg. As soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), Hydrolupin ^® (Croda) , hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives. The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred. Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention. If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred Embodiment contain the inventive panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Furthermore, oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5% by weight are preferred.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. These dyes may be nonionic or cationic.

The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair. Hair creams and gels generally contain structurants and / or thickening polymers which serve to give the products the desired consistency. Structural and / or thickening polymers are typically used in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.

The agents according to the invention are preferably packaged as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol show m, particularly preferably as pump foam or in particular aerosol foam. For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device which either represents an additional compressed gas container ("aerosol container") filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container By definition, the term "non-aerosol container" is defined as a container under normal pressure, which is used to distribute a product by mechanical action through a pumping system.

With particular preference, the agents according to the invention are packaged as aerosol hair foam. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant. Propellants suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

The amount of blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When using conventional spraying aerosol foam products contain the propellant preferably in amounts of 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant. Preferably, the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Preferred aerosol containers preferably comprise

at least one storage container containing the agent according to the invention,

a valve which is fastened to the lid (cup) of the storage container, - If appropriate, a dip tube, which faces the inside of the storage container and is connected to the valve and

- A shaft, which has outside the Voratsbehältnisses and is connected to the valve.

The reservoir of the aerosol containers, in which the agents according to the invention as

Aerosol foam or aerosol spray, are preferably made of aluminum,

Tinplate, glass or polyvinyl chloride made, in particular aluminum.

The inside of the aerosol container, which comes into contact with the agent according to the invention, is again preferably provided with an internal protection. They are preferably suitable for this purpose

Interior protective lacquers, such as epoxy phenolic lacquers, as described for example by the company Hoba

(in particular varnish type 7940), polyamide, microflex.

The valves of the aerosol containers are preferably made of aluminum, tinplate or stainless steel

(especially V2A steel or V4A steel), with aluminum being the most preferred

Represents material of the valves. The valves can in turn be provided in particular with the aforementioned inner protective materials, in particular on the inner side, which comes into contact with the agent according to the invention.

In the context of an aerosol foam applicator, it is inventively preferred if the valve has a stem which is movably mounted in the valve. The shaft is of cylindrical shape. The shaft in turn preferably has an inner diameter of 1.0 to

3.0 mm, in particular from 1.7 to 2.5 mm.

As part of an aerosol foam applicator, the valve may have a dip tube attached to the valve. The dip tube in turn preferably has one

Inner diameter of 1, 0 to 3.0 mm, in particular from 1, 7 to 2.5 mm.

A preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention are aerosol foams containing the previously described inventive agent and at least one propellant. Preferred agents and blowing agents of the aerosol hair foam according to the invention, as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to those already mentioned above. Particularly suitable for foam applications are aerosol containers comprising such valves which are commercially available as product 522983 PV10697, product 541100 PV11394 or product 125819 PV10500 from Pecision (Deutsche Präzisions-Ventil GmbH).

The aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. As a rule, all constituents of the respective agent, with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

For foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container, isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated in the compositions according to the invention is and is assembled in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.

A second object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care. The compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents, in particular aerosol hair foams, are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair remains flexible. If the product is formulated as a hair foam, a stable, fine-pored and creamy foam forms, which can be distributed evenly and without dripping on the hair.

A third object of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is foamed to a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.

B e i s p e e l e

The following quantities are by weight. The inventive styling agents A to H were prepared according to the following table.

35% by weight of active substance (INCI name Capryl / Capramidopropyl Betaine) (Evonik)

² S-Methyl-i-vinylimidazolium chloride-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (30:70) (38-42% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-16) (BASF)

³ INCI name: Chitosan PCA, approx. 77 to 87% by weight of active substance (Amerchol)

⁴ deacetylated chitin (INCI name: chitosan) (Cognis)

⁵ quaternized cellulose derivative (INCI name: Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch)

⁶ Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (about 19% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (ISP)

⁷ Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (40:60) (50% by weight of active substance in water, INCI name: VP / VA copolymer) (BASF)

⁸ with 25 units of ethylene oxide ethoxylated Ci ₆ -, Ci ₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Ceteareth- 25) (BASF)

The formulations A to C were each filled into an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (Deutsche Präzisions-Ventil GmbH). The formulations D and E were each filled into an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 125819 PV10500 from Pecision (Deutsche Präzisions-Ventil GmbH). The formulations F to H were each filled into an aerosol container which fulfills the following technical parameters: aluminum storage container with valve product 541100 PV11394 from Pecision (Deutsche Präzisions-Ventil GmbH). The respective aerosol containers were filled with a propellant mixture of propane / butane (47% by weight of propane, 50% by weight of butane, 3% by weight of isobutane), resulting in a weight ratio of formulation to propellant gas of 92 to 8.

Each of the formulas A to H was tested on a test person on the hair. For this purpose, a sufficient amount of foam was added to the palm of the hand from the aerosol can and massaged into the hair. The hair was then styled and shaped. The resulting hairstyle had a perfect fit and the hair was cared for.

Claims

Patent claims

1. A hair treatment composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one betaine compound of formula (I) or its protonated form

wherein

R ^{1 represents} a (C ₄ to C ₂ ) alkyl group,

R ² and R ³ independently of one another are a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or hair-fixing polymer.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that according to formula (I) R ¹ is a (C ₆ to C ₀₎ - alkyl group, especially a (C ₈ to d _o) alkyl group.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that according to formula (I) R ² and R ^{3 are} a methyl group.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the betaine compounds of the formula (I) in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.02 wt .-% to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent are included.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that, if compounds of formula (II) or their protonated forms are included,

wherein

R ^{4 represents} an alkyl group with more than 10 carbon atoms,

R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another are a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, the weight ratio of the compounds of the formula (I) to the compounds of the formula (II) being at least 0.2.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the film-forming and / or hair fixative acting polymer is selected from at least one polymer selected from nonionic polymers, temporary cationic polymers, permanent cationic polymers, anionic polymers, zwitterionic polymers and amphoteric polymers.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the film-forming and / or fixing to the hair-acting polymer is selected from at least one polymer selected from nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, nonionic cellulose derivatives, Starch and its derivatives, chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic copolymers of 3- (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl-1-vinylimidazolinium, homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium, homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula ( M-1)) in which R ² = -H or -CH _3, R ^3, R ⁴ and R ⁵ are independently selected from (Ci -C ₄₎ alkyl, (Ci to _C4) -alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, amphoteric copolymers of N- (C ₆ to Cio) -alkylacrylamide, amphoteric copolymers of N - (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkylmethacrylamides, anionic polymers containing carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, anionic polyurethanes.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the film-forming and / or fixing on the hair-acting polymers in an amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 20.0 wt .-%, in particular of 2, 0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition are included.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that in addition at least one further surfactant, in particular at least one nonionic surfactant, are included.

10. A composition according to claim 9, characterized in that surfactants in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent are included.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains at least one blowing agent.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of a pump foam or aerosol foam.

13. Use of an agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 11 for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.

14. A method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein, using a dispenser, an agent according to at least one of claims 1 is foamed to 11 to a foam and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin fibers.