EP2490661A2

EP2490661A2 - Method for creating hairstyles that can be remodeled

Info

Publication number: EP2490661A2
Application number: EP10759669A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Matthias Schweinsberg; Oliver Kuhnert; Luca Marchese
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2009-10-20
Filing date: 2010-09-30
Publication date: 2012-08-29
Also published as: US20120199155A1; WO2011047942A2; WO2011047942A3; DE102009045840A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic product containing at least one polyamide that is a reaction product of at least one dimerised fatty acid and at least one diamino compound. Said product is suitable for creating hairstyles that can be remodeled.

Description

"Method for remodeling a hairstyle"

The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one polyamide, which is a reaction product of at least one dimerized fatty acid and at least one diamino compound, for obtaining remodeling hairstyles, and a corresponding method for remodeling.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The first most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These can be roughly in properties on the hair, properties of each

Formulation, e.g. Properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent, are subdivided, with the properties of the hair is of particular importance. To name in particular

Moisture resistance, low tack and a well-balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types.

In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers. Ideally, the polymers yield a polymer film even on a small amount when applied to the hair, on the one hand the hairstyle gives a strong grip, but on the other hand is sufficiently flexible so as not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.

Furthermore, the temporarily styled hair should look healthy and natural next to the strong hairstyle. The hair shine plays an outstanding role. Often therefore the hair styling agents so-called brighteners are added in sufficient quantity. These

Brighteners are, for example, oils or gloss pigments such as Mica particles. Glossy particles have the disadvantage of detaching themselves from the hair over time and, after some time, e.g. find again on clothes or facial skin. Oils complain the hair and sometimes lead to a deteriorated adhesion of the film-forming or

Firming polymers on the hair. This possibly leads to the disadvantage that the imprinted hairstyle can not be fixed by the film-forming or setting polymers over a sufficient duration. The hairstyle hangs faster.

Conventional temporary polymer-based hair fixatives are good for strong hold

Usually not designed to remodel hairstyles. The reason for this is the high strength of the film formed. In a reshaping of the polymer already formfixed hair often breaks the existing film. Consequently, the newly embossed hairstyle can not be readily fixed by the styling agent already on the hair. To avoid the film break the hairstyle is often remodeled under heat and the polymer film is kept flexible by the heat. This helps to avoid the film break. However, polymers with a high degree of retention usually have a high melting temperature. This in turn requires the use of high temperatures during remodeling, the high temperatures leading to additional hair damage. The latter should be avoided at all costs.

Object of the present invention was therefore, means for temporary deformation

keratinic fibers provide, characterized by a high degree of retention

allow a good remodeling of the hairstyle achieved and do not have the abuses mentioned above. Furthermore, the hair damage should be reduced when using heat.

It has now been found that a hair-preserving remodeling ability of hairstyles with a high degree of hold can be achieved by the use of a special polyamide.

A first object of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one polyamide which comprises

Reaction product of at least one dimerized fatty acid and at least one

Diamino compound is for obtaining remodelable hairstyles.

The expert understands remodeling the transformation of hair, wherein

(i) the hair is dry prior to remodeling and already has a polymer-fixed shape, (ii) these hairs are reshaped and

(iii) this new form is refixed by the polymer already on the hair prior to remodeling,

(iv) without the fixation according to step (iii) the application of a further cosmetic agent containing at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer takes place.

A dry, polymer-fixed hairstyle, which can be reshaped and fixed without the aid of a further cosmetic agent containing at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, is therefore a "remodelable hairstyle".

By "dry" is in no way meant to be "dripping wet", but the state in which the liquid residues adhering to the hair (eg water, organic solvents) have evaporated to such an extent that the moisture content of the fiber is substantially in equilibrium with the humidity of the air or the fiber Absorbs moisture from the air of the environment.

According to the invention, "film-forming polymers" are understood as meaning those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

"Firming polymers" contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of hair volume and hair fullness of the hairstyle.These polymers are also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays be selective and connect only a few fibers.

All quantitative range information is understood in the context of the invention always with the inclusion of the respective upper and lower limits.

According to all formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valence of a structural fragment.

Dimerized fatty acids are used as product in an oligomerization or

Polymerization reaction of unsaturated long-chain monobasic fatty acids obtained.

Dimerized fatty acids have long been known to the skilled person and are commercially available. Dimerized fatty acids are known to be present in a mixture of several isomers and oligomers after preparation. Before working up this mixture it contains 0 to 15 wt .-% of monomeric fatty acid, 60 to 96% dimerized fatty acid and 0.2 to 35% trimerized fatty acid or higher oligomerized fatty acid. This crude mixture is usually worked up by distillation, sometimes followed by curing (reduction of the remaining double bonds with hydrogen).

In the context of the use according to the invention it is preferred if the cosmetic agent contains the polyamide in an amount of from 0.01 to 30.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0, From 5 to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight %, in each case based on the weight of the composition contains. These ranges of amounts also apply to the following preferred embodiments of the polyamide.

The polyamides preferably used according to the invention preferably have one

Melting temperature in a temperature range of 55 ° C to 190 ° C, in particular from 60 ° C to 160 ° C, on.

The polyamides according to the invention are in the agent according to the invention in one

Molecular weight distribution before. Preferred polyamides have an average molecular weight (weight average) of from 10 kDa to 1000 kDa, in particular from 50 kDa to 800 kDa, very particularly preferably from 100 kDa to 400 kDa. The said weight average is an average molecular weight which takes into account the total weight of molecules of different molecular weight and not just the number of molecules. The statistical calculation of the weight average molecular weight distribution is notoriously known to the skilled person and can be taken from textbooks.

It has proved to be preferred according to the invention to use those cosmetic agents which are characterized in that the polyamide has a glass transition temperature of -60 ° C to 60 ° C, in particular from -40 ° C to 15 ° C.

In addition, a particularly good effect is exhibited when cosmetic agents are used, which are characterized in that the polyamide has an modulus of elasticity at 2% deformation of 10 to 500, especially 20 to 150. The modulus of elasticity is determined by the method ASTM D638.

Particularly preferably usable polyamides have an elongation at break in% of from 20 to 1000, in particular from 400 to 1000, very particularly preferably from 600 to 1000. The

Elongation at break was determined according to DIN 53455.

Suitable dimerized fatty acids may be obtained by coupling or condensation of two moles of unsaturated monocarboxylic acid (as appropriate monocarboxylic acid may also

various unsaturated monocarboxylic acids are used as a mixture). Unsaturated fatty acids can be obtained with the help of various known catalyzed or uncatalyzed

Polymerization be provided. Production methods for the production of dimerized fatty acids are known, for example, from US Pat. Nos. 2,793,219 and 2,995,219.

There have been found to be preferably suitable such dimerized fatty acids which are prepared by coupling of unsaturated (Ci ₀ to C ₂ 4) monocarboxylic acids. These are monounsaturated (Ci ₀ to C ₂ 4) monocarboxylic acids and / or polyunsaturated (Ci ₀ to C ₂ 4) monocarboxylic acids.

Dimerized fatty acids having 36 carbon atoms obtained by dimerization of an unsaturated monocarboxylic acid having 18 carbon atoms, e.g. Oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof (mixture of, for example, tall oil fatty acid cut) are obtained, are particularly preferred for the preparation of the polyamides according to the invention

Application. Such dimerized fatty acids comprise a C36 dicarboxylic acid as the main component and usually have an acid number of 180 to 215, a saponification number from 190 to 205 and a neutral equivalent of 265 to 310 on. Dimerized fatty acids with less than 30 wt .-% by-products comprising monocarboxylic acids, trimerized fatty acids and higher oligomerized / polymerized fatty acids are particularly suitable in the context of the invention. The dimerized fatty acids can be hardened and / or distilled before the reaction to the polyamide used in the invention. It is preferred according to the invention if the dimerized fatty acid used to prepare the polyamide has a content of at least 90% by weight of the dimer.

Particular preference is given to using dimerized fatty acids for the preparation of the polyamides prepared by coupling linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and / or oleic acid. Mixtures of oleic acid and linoleic acid are found in the fatty acid cut of tall oil, which is a favorable source of raw materials. A typical composition of the dimerized cis-fatty acids formed by reacting the tall oil fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms and suitable for the preparation of the polyamides used in the invention is:

C-I8 monocarboxylic acids (monomer) 0-15% by weight

C ₃₆ dimerized fatty acid (dimer) 60-96% by weight

C ₅₄ (or higher) trimerized or higher oligomerized fatty acid 0.2-35% wt%

Moreover, in one embodiment of the invention, it may be preferable to additionally use at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 6 to 18 carbon atoms in addition to the dimerized fatty acid for the preparation of the polyamide. Both linear and branched dicarboxylic acids can be used. Suitable dicarboxylic acids are, for example, compounds of the formula HOOC-R ^a -COOH in which R ^{a is} a divalent, aliphatic, hydrocarbon structural fragment having 4 to 16 carbon atoms, such as in azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecane-1, 12-dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. R ^a can be linear or branched.

The inventively used for the preparation of the polyamides dimerized fatty acid (and optionally additionally used aliphatic dicarboxylic acid with 6 to 18

Carbon atoms) is necessarily reacted with at least one diamino compound. Here, such polyamides showed better properties for the use according to the invention, in the preparation of which at least one diamino compound is used which comprises

Diamino compounds of the formula (I) is selected

H ₂ NR -NH ₂ (I)

wherein R represents a linear (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group, a branched (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ - alkylene group, a group * -R ² -0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n (CH ₂ CHMeO ) _m -R ³ - *, wherein R ² and R ^{3 are} independently of one another for a (C ₂ to C ₀ ) -alkylene group (especially for ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 2-diyl) and n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 100, where the sum of m + n> 0, or for a group of the formula

4 '

* - RN N- R- * in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene group.

In the group * -R ² -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m -R ³ - *, the ethylene oxide or

Propylene oxide groups are present as a block or randomly distributed.

Outstanding application properties were exhibited by polyamides

Reaction of at least one dimerized fatty acid with a combination of at least one compound of formula (I) and at least one compound of formula (1-1) is selected

H ₂ NR -NH ₂ (I)

H ₂ NR ² -0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m -R ³ -NH ₂ (1-1)

wherein R stands for a (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group, R ² and R ³ are independently (C ₂ to Cio) alkylene group (for a particular ethane-1, 2-diyl or propan-1, 2-diyl ) and n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 100, the sum of m + n> 0.

The compounds of formula (1-1) are so-called polyoxyalkylenediamines. Processes for the preparation of these polyoxyalkylenediamines are known to the person skilled in the art and comprise the reaction of an initiator molecule carrying two hydroxyl groups with ethylene oxide and / or monosubstituted ethylene oxide (eg propylene oxide) followed by a conversion of the terminal ones Hydroxyl groups in amino groups.

If compounds of the formula (I-1) with m> 0 are used, it is again preferable to choose those compounds of the formula (I-1) in which additionally n> 0, with the proviso that the entire diamino compound of the formula ( I) has a maximum proportion of 50 wt .-% of propylene oxide units, based on the weight of the diamino compound. The ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units of the formula (I-1) or of the formula (I) can be randomly distributed or distributed in a gradient or can be present in at least two blocks.

If the group R of the compounds of formula (I) is a group

* -R ² -0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m -R ³ - * as the maximum proportion of propylene oxide units is preferably 40 wt .-% and particularly preferably at most 30 wt .-% , based on the weight of the compound according to formula (I).

Polyoxyalkylenediamines of the formula (1-1) which are preferably suitable according to the invention have a molecular weight of 460 to 6,000 g / mol, more preferably of 600 to 5,000.

According to the invention suitable polyoxyalkylene be sold as a commercial product Jeffamine ^® from Huntsman Corporation, Houston, Texas. These

Polyoxyalkylenediamines are prepared by reacting bifunctional initiators with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide followed by conversion of the terminal hydroxyl groups to amino groups. Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylene amines include the Jeffamine ™ D series and JD series, (especially Jeffamine JD2000, Jeffamine JD 400 and Jeffamine JD230) from Huntsman Chemical Company. Examples of preferred linear alkylenediamines (R is a linear C in the formula (I) ₂ -C ₀ - alkylene) are 1, 2-ethylenediamine, 1, 2-propylenediamine, 1, 3-propylenediamine,

Tetramethylenediamine, pentamethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, octamethylenediamine.

Examples of preferred branched alkylene (R a branched C in the formula (I) ₂ -C ₀ -alkylene) are 2-methyl-1, 5-pentanediamine, 5-methyl-1, 9-nonandiamine and 2,2,4 Trimethyl-1,6-hexanediamine and mixtures thereof.

Furthermore, it has proved to be particularly advantageous if at least one diamino compound is 1, 2-ethylenediamine.

Said polyamides can be prepared by known standard methods under known

Reaction conditions are obtained. The dimerized fatty acid and the

Diamino compound (s) are usually reacted at temperatures of 100 ° C to 300 ° C over a period of 1 to 8 hours. The reaction is carried out predominantly at 140 ° C to 240 ° C until the theoretically obtained in the condensation reaction amount of water has formed. The reaction preferably takes place in an inert

Atmosphere, such as Nitrogen, instead. Upon completion of the reaction, the reaction system is preferably vacuumed to facilitate removal of the water and other volatiles. The use of acid catalysts (such as phosphoric acid) and vacuum (the latter especially in the final phase of the reaction) is preferred to ensure an almost complete amidation reaction.

The number of free carboxyl groups or the free amino groups in the polyamide is related to the relative amounts of those used in the preparation of the polyamide

Carboxylic acid component and diamine component. The polyamide used according to the invention can either be acid-terminated, amine-terminated or acid-terminated and amine-terminated. It is also possible to use mixtures of these appropriately terminated polyamides.

Acid-terminated polyamides which can be used according to the invention preferably have the formula (IIa)

wherein

R represents a linear (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group, a branched (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ -

Alkylene group, a group * -R ² -0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m -R ³ - *, wherein R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ - Alkylene group (in particular ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 2-diyl) and n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 100, wherein the sum of m + n> 0, or for a Group of formula

* - RN NR ⁵ - * in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene group, R ² is, independently of each repeat unit, a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -alkylene group, R ³ is a C ₂ oC ₄₀ alkylene group, and

n stands for the number of repeat units and is an integer between 10 and 100,000.

According to the invention usable amine-terminated polyamides preferably have the formula (IIb),

O O

H ₂ NRN- (-CRCNRN -) - H

HHH n _{(|| b)}

wherein

* - RN NR ⁵ - * in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene group, R ² is, independently of each repeat unit, a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -alkylene group,

R ³ represents a linear (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group, a branched (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group or a group * -R ⁴ -0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _p (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m -R ⁵ - *, wherein R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently represent a (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group (in particular, ethane-1, 2-diyl or propan-1, 2-diyl), and p and m are independently are each an integer from 0 to 100, the sum of m + p> 0, and

Furthermore, the amine-terminated polyamides can also be present as ammonio-terminated polyamides. Therein, the terminal amino groups are quaternized with (Ci to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl groups. Amines and acid-terminated polyamides which can be used according to the invention preferably have the formula (IIc)

wherein

represents a linear (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group, a branched (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ - alkylene group, a group * -R ² -0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m -R ³ - *, wherein R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group (in particular, ethane-1, 2-diyl or propan-1, 2-diyl) and n and m independently each other is an integer from 0 to 100, the sum of m + n> 0, or a group of the formula

in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene group, R ² is independently of any repeating unit a C ₂ oC ₄₀ alkylene group, and n is the number of repeating units and is an integer between 10 and 100,000.

Preferred polyamides which can be used according to the invention have an acid number of from 0.01 to 8, in particular from 0.05 to 7. The acid number is determined by measuring method according to DIN EN ISO 21 14.

Furthermore, preferred useful polyamides have an amine number of 0.1 to 90,

especially from 2 to 20, on. The amine number is determined by measuring method according to DIN 53176.

The compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment of the agent according to the invention, the agent therefore additionally contains at least one alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 3

Has hydroxyl groups. This additional alcohol is again preferably selected from at least one compound of the group which is formed from ethanol, ethylene glycol,

Isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, glycerol, n-butanol, 1, 3-butylene glycol,. A most preferred alcohol is ethanol.

The additional alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 hydroxyl groups is preferably in the composition according to the invention (in particular in the presence of at least one blowing agent) in an amount of 40 wt .-% to 65 wt .-%, in particular 40 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition containing.

As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and

Cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are polyethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.

In particular, the addition of propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or

Polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the invention. If, therefore, a flexible hold is desired, the agents according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent. The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.

The effects according to the invention can be increased by adding at least one (C ₂ to C ₆ ) trialkyl citrate to the composition according to the invention. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the agents additionally contain at least one compound of the formula (E)

wherein

R, R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group.

Examples of a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group according to formula (E) are methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, neopentyl, isopentyl, n hexyl.

As a particularly preferred compound of formula (E) turned out triethyl citrate.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains the compounds of the formula (E) in an amount of from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the entire composition.

A similar increase of the effects according to the invention could be achieved by adding

Achieve isopropyl myristate. This is in the inventive compositions preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 1 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 0.3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition - included.

In order to intensify the effect according to the invention, the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity. The use of at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one cationic surfactant is preferred in this embodiment of the invention.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, one

Polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and Polyglykolethergruppe. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group . with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenyls having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, such as those among the

Sales names Dehydrol® ^® LS, Dehydrol® ^® LT (Cognis) types,

C 12 -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or

Sovermol - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (T-1)

R CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (Tl)

in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 .

Amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (T-I),

R ⁴ 0- [G] _p (T-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. Under "normal" homolog distribution are mixtures of Homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

With very particular preference the agents according to the invention contain as surfactant at least one adduct of 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular of 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, with a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having 8 to 22

Carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably ceteareth-15,

Ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50, which (COGNIS), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis) are marketed as 15 Eumulgin ^® CS.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

- Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-0- (CH2-CH20) x-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0 (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) _x -OS0 ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates .

sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (T-V),

O

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - p - OR ² ^0X (TV)

in the R preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) nR or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,

sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (T-VI)

R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (T-VI)

in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (T-VII)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z - SO ₃ X

(T-VII)

in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. It is preferred to use monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (T-VII) in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide-ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammo Niumverbindungen are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyl trimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride and Trialkylmethylammonium- chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^<_) in the molecule - carry or -S0 ₃ ^<_) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ - C ₂ 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts , Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d ₂ -C ₈ -acylsarcosine.

The agents according to the invention may optionally additionally contain at least one film-forming polymer and / or setting polymer. These additional polymers are different from the previously defined polyamides.

Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair. Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair setting agents,

Hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer.

The additional film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers have at least one structural unit containing at least one permanently cationized nitrogen atom. Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound. Quaternary ammonium compounds are most commonly prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide. Depending on the tertiary amine used, the following groups are known in particular: alkylammonium compounds, alkenylammonium compounds, imidazolinium compounds and pyridinium compounds.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, which is preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from non-ionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic polymers.

The film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, most preferably from 2.0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition. These quantities also apply to all subsequent preferred types of film-forming and / or setting polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention. If differing preferred amounts have been specified below, the latter are considered to be more preferred amounts.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are those agents which contain at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed

nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, in particular from

Homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,

nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,

Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam,

Copolymers of (meth) acrylamide,

Polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate,

Chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives,

cationic copolymers of the 3- (C 1 -C ₆ ) -alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazolinium,

Copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M-1)

in which R ² = -H or -CH _3, R ^3, R ⁴ and R ⁵ are independently selected from (Ci -C ₄₎ alkyl, (Ci to _C4) -alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion,

anionic polymers having carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, anionic polyurethanes.

Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as an additional film-forming and / or setting polymer are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -acyl group,

R "and R""independently represent a (Ci to C ₇ ) -alkyl group or a

Hydrogen atom

R '"represents a linear or branched (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl group.

Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide , Alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers from (Ci to C ₃ ) alkyl groups are selected.

Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (d- to C ₃₀ ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.

Particularly suitable are homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam or vinyl pyrrolidone (such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE), (copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA are marketed by the firm BASF SE 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73), (terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides such as Akypomine ^® P 191 (from the company CHEM-Y), polyvinyl alcohols, for example, under the trade designations Elvanol ^® be sold by Du Pont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (such as Luviset.RTM ^® Clear from BASF SE).

In addition to the nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose having a molecular weight from 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ^® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg ^® grades), hydroxyethylcellulose, such as (for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® AQUALON) and Natrosol (Hercules).

Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

A cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which is preferably suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which contains at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M10)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ', R "and R" independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,

X is an oxygen atom or a group NH,

A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group,

n is 1 or 3.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Such compounds are for example as

Copolymers of diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, with

Vinylpyrrolidone having the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1, under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® 755 (each ISP), and Luviquat PQ 1 1 PN (BASF SE),

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide, and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name Aqua Style ^® 300 (28- 32% by weight of active substance in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by ISP.

Furthermore, according to the invention, the cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Further suitable cationic and / or setting polymers are preferably cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch. Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore include those cationic film-forming and / or cationic consolidating copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M1 1)

wherein R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,

and additionally have at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

It is in turn preferred according to the invention if, as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer, at least one copolymer (c1) is present, which in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1 1) additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (M6)

wherein R is a (Ci to C ₄ ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1) and 70 to 90 Mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6).

It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1 1) and (M6) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-% , Contain polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1 1) with R "= methyl and (M6). Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) is a chloride ion are used, these N-MethylvinylimidazolA are / inylpyrrolidon copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI Nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) is a methosulfate used, these N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (Cl), in particular of the formula (polyl), which has molar masses within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (Cl) has a molecular weight of from 50 to 400 kDa, preferably from 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 250 kDa and in particular from 190 to 210 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) or at its site, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (M7) as additional structural units

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c2) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M7)

In this case too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6) and (M7) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1 1-a), (M6) and (M7). To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidon / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Hold by BASF ,

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M7).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (c2) which has molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c2) has a molecular weight of 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 850 kDa and in particular from 650 to 710 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) and / or (c2) or at its site, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c3) as structural units forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers which contain structural units as structural units of the formulas (M1 1-a) and (M6), as well as further structural units from the group of the vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M10) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12)

Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably the copolymers (c3) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12).

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c3) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidonA / inylimidazol / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M8) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M12).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (c3) which has molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c3) has a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350 kDa and in particular from 290 to 310 kDa.

Among the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (M1 1-a), the following are preferred:

Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat ^® HM 552 (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ^® (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 ^® under the trade names Luviquat Care or Luviquat ^® Hold (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazoliummethylsulfat- copolymer (for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 ^® under the trade name Luviquat Supreme (BASF SE)),

and mixtures of these polymers. Other cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.

These polymers include, for example, chitosans. Chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are very particularly preferably suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers in the context of the present invention.

Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.

For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum. Preferably used are those having an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88% and an ash content of have less than 0.3 wt .-%.

In addition to the chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers, cationically derivatized chitosans (such as, for example, quaternization products) or alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable for the purposes of the invention.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.

Suitable chitosan (derivatives) are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ^® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ^® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ^® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ^® NB / commercially 101 freely available.

The chitosan or its derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0, 1 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

Suitable temporary cationic polymers for the purposes of the invention likewise include those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) (M1-4)

(M1-8).

In this case, preference is again given to those copolymers which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M10), 1 or 3 means.

Again, the group of polymers applies

Vinylcaprolactam vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ^® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)),

Vinylpyrrolidone A inylcaprolactam / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer

(for example, INCI name: VP vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ^® SF-40 (ISP)),

Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

as a preferred list for selecting at least one or more polymers thereof. The compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or S0 ₃ H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^' or -S0 ₃ ^' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or S0 ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.

The amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

Furthermore, at least one anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer can be used as the film-forming and / or setting polymers.

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci ₃ -Ci ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention. Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Other preferred anionic polymers are selected from the group that is formed

Copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (as 60 wt .-%, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ^® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a - marketed dispersion in isopropanol-water)

Copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (as Acrylates Copolymer sold for example under the trade name Luviflex ^® Soft having an acid number from 84 to 105 under the INCI name in an about 20 to 30 wt .-% dispersion in water by BASF SE become),

Polyurethanes having at least one carboxyl group (such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI name Polyurethane-1 from BASF SE).

If, in particular, strongly thickening anionic polymers are used, care should again be taken in a preferred embodiment to ensure that the aforementioned preferred viscosity criterion of the agents according to the invention is adhered to.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

As additional co-solvents, the agents according to the invention may contain organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C. in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.

In particular, the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. So if a flexible stop is desired, contain the

agents according to the invention preferably 0.01 to 30 wt .-% glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol based on the total agent. The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.

As a care substance, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Continue to be

According to the invention constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives polymers under the term protein hydrolyzates understood. The latter include, for example, polyalanine,

Polyasparagin, Polyserin etc. count. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Particularly interesting is the use of silk protein hydrolysates. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.

The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt.% Hydroxyamino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37% by weight), aspartate (Asp, 26% by weight), glycine (Gly, 17% by weight), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr) , The water-insoluble fibroin belongs to the skieroproteins with a long-chain molecular structure. The main components of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another important structural feature of the fibroin is the

Hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.

Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. So it is not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known as raw materials for use in cosmetic products each by itself. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example, sericin as such is available from Pentapharm ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Fibroin is much more common than protein hydrolyzate with different

Molecular weights offered in the market. These hydrolysates are used in particular as

"Seidenhydroylsate" distributed. Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ^® Silk.

Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and

Wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are, for example, among the

Designations Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda), Crosilk ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda) sold.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention encompasses all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers. According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates.

The protein hydrolysates may be present in the agents according to the invention, for example in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of from 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total application preparation.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and Vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation. The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H.

Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention. If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0, 1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant. With regard to the plant extracts preferred according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt. According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot , Lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain these care substances in amounts of from 0.001 to 2, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5,% by weight, based in each case on the total

Application preparation. Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.

Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose, can be used. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides, in turn, those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred. Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate. Furthermore, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the corresponding onic acids, uronic acids, sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention. Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol. Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides. Since the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (for example D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).

The mono- or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

Although each of the aforementioned care substances alone already gives a satisfactory result, in the context of the present invention, all embodiments are also included, in which the agent contains a plurality of care substances also from different groups.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters,

Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that in structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the context of the teaching of the invention over the higher effect such water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular to not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in common cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%. The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.

The agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It is preferred according to the invention that the agents according to the invention are free from

Oxidation dye precursors are. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.

In addition to the components mentioned, the agents may furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.

The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of gels, creams, solutions which can be applied to the hair as a lotion or pump or aerosol spray, or other preparations suitable for use on the hair are suitable.

The agents according to the invention are preferably designed as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam.

For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container") or a non-aerosol container.

The pressurized gas containers, with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers". When

"Non-aerosol container" is inversely to the aerosol definition under a container

Normal pressure defined by means of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping system. With particular preference the agents according to the invention are present as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.

Compositions according to the invention which are in the form of an aerosol product can be prepared in a conventional manner. In general, all constituents of the composition according to the invention, with the exception of the blowing agent, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

In the embodiment as an aerosol spray, blowing agents suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5

Carbon atoms such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the co-use of

Propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the fluorocarbons.

The propellant is in the inventive compositions of the embodiment as aerosol spray preferably in an amount of 30 to 60 wt .-% - based on the weight of the total composition - included.

Very particular preference is given to using mixtures of propane and butane as the sole blowing agent in a weight ratio of propane to butane of from 20:80 to 15:85. These mixtures are again preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 30 to 55% by weight the weight of the entire agent - used. Butane according to the invention is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane.

To produce an aerosol foam according to the invention suitable according to the invention

Propellants are for example selected from N ₂ 0, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

The use of the abovementioned additional preferred ingredients and the quantities or ratios (vide supra) designated as being preferred are of course also preferred in the context of this embodiment (s).

In the embodiment as an aerosol foam, blowing agents suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5

Carbon atoms such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and mixtures thereof. According to the embodiment of an aerosol foam, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the co-use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the fluorocarbons.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

When using conventional aerosol containers containing Aerosolschau mprodukte the

Propellant preferably in amounts of 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product.

Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.

The use of the abovementioned additional preferred ingredients and the quantities or ratios (vide supra) which are characterized as being preferred are, of course, also preferred in the context of this embodiment.

The agents according to the invention and products which contain these agents, in particular

Aerosol hair sprays and aerosol hair foams are characterized in particular by giving treated hair a strong hold and volume.

A second aspect of the invention is a process for remodeling hairdrous hair in which

(i) the hair is dry before the start of remodeling and already has a shape fixed by at least one polymer,

(ii) these hairs are reshaped and

with the proviso that for fixing according to (iii) no application of a further cosmetic agent containing at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, characterized in that the polymer according to (i) is a polyamide which is a reaction product of at least one dimerized Fatty acid and at least one diamino compound.

It is inventively preferred that the shaping according to (ii) using heat in a temperature range of 45 ° C to 200 ° C, in particular from 55 ° C to 160 ° C, takes place. The shaping can be done using appropriately tempered air,

for example, by means of a hair dryer or curling iron, or with the help of appropriately tempered flat iron. The hair can be moistened with a liquid immediately before the remodeling step. This is particularly advantageous if the hair for forming on forming aids (eg hair curlers) are wound and this process should be facilitated. If forming aids are used, then it is again preferable to apply heat as long as the hairs are on the forming aids. Then the forming aids are carefully removed.

In this case, the embodiments mentioned in the first subject of the invention are likewise preferred with regard to the polyamide used.

As inventively preferred apply to the application aid of the polyamide-containing cosmetic agent, the aforementioned dispensing or aerosol products (vide supra).

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way.

B e i s p e e l e

The following quantities are to be understood, unless otherwise stated

Weight percent of the active substance.

The following compositions were provided:

Raw material E1 E2 E3 V1

PA1 5.0 - - -

PA2 - 5.0 - -

PA3 - - 5.0 -

Amphomer ^® - - - 5.0

Isopropanol / hexane * 95.0 95.0 95.0 95.0

* in weight ratio 2 to 1

PA1: polyamide obtained by polymerizing a dimerized fatty acid (with 36

Carbon atoms) with 1, 2-ethylenediamine, 1, 10-diaminodecane and a

Diaminopolyether (acid number: 1, 4; amine number: 6.8, glass transition temperature: -15 ° C., melting temperature: 142 ° C., elastic modulus: 30, yield MPa: 4.5, break MPa: 10, elongation%: 600)

PA2 polyamide obtained by polymerizing a dimerized fatty acid (with 36

Carbon atoms) with 1, 2-ethylenediamine, 1, 9-diaminononane and a

Diaminopolyether (acid number: 6.5, amine number: 0.7, glass transition temperature: -35 ° C., melting temperature: 180 ° C., elastic modulus: 85, yield MPa: 6, break Mpa: 9, elongation%: 600)

PA3 polyamide obtained by polymerizing a dimerized fatty acid (with 36

Carbon atoms) with 1,6-diaminohexane (acid number: 0.05; amine number: 2.6;

Melting temperature: 135 ° C; Young's modulus: 100; Yield MPa: 9.9; Break MPa: 26, elongation%: 580)

1.0 Determination of High Humidity Curl Retention (HHCR)

Standardized hair strands of the company Kerling (Art. No. 827560) of the hair type "European Natural, Color 6/0" of a length (L _max ) of 220 mm and a weight of 0.6 g were used.

For preparation, the strands were washed with a 12.5 wt .-% sodium laurethsulphat solution. The hair strands were dried overnight in a drying oven at 318K.

0.18 g of the compositions were applied to one strand of hair and massaged. The tress was then wound on a winder (Fripac-medis, 0 7mm, Art. No. D-1203) and dried overnight at room temperature.

The winder was carefully removed and the tress hung. The lengths of the curls were each measured (L ₀ ) and the strands placed in a climatic chamber. There they became stored at 294 K and a relative humidity of 85% over a period of 6 h and then measure the lengths of the curls again (L _t ).

Per test 5 test strands were treated and measured accordingly. The high-humidity curl retention (HHCR) was calculated according to the following formula and for each composition the arithmetic mean was calculated from the HHCR values of the 5 test strands:

HHCR - ^L ™ ^{~ L <}

2.0 Determination of remodeling ability

After completion of the determination of the HHCR (see under 1.0), the hair was dried in air. If they were slightly cross-linked by the styling agent, the hair was separated and carefully combed through two times. The strands were then wound on winder again (Fripac-medis, 0 7 mm, Art. No. D-1203) and the hair strands with winder heated to a temperature of 180 ° C.

The winder was carefully removed and the tress hung. The lengths of the curls were each measured (L ₀ ) and the strands placed in a climatic chamber. There they were stored at 294 K and a relative humidity of 85% over a period of 6 h and then measured again the lengths of the curls (L _t ).

The high-humidity curl retention of the remodeled strand (HHCR) was calculated according to the above formula and for each composition the arithmetic mean was calculated from the HHCR values of the 5 test strands. Then, the test strands were classified into remodelability categories derived from the HHCR of the remodeled strand in% of the initial HHCR

1 = 80-100%, 2 = 60-80%, 3 = 40-60% 4 = 20-40%, 5 = 0-20%

Table 1: Results:

With the means E1 to E3 according to the invention hairstyles with very strong hairstyle hold (compare HHCR) can be formed and strengthened in the context of a remodeling process. Although not the styling composition V1 according to the invention with the commercially available polymer Amphomer provides a strong hairstyle hold the Ausgangsfrisur, but these can not be transformed and fixed in the context of remodeling into a new hairstyle.

Claims

Patent claims

1. Use of a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier

at least one polyamide, which is a reaction product of at least one dimerized fatty acid and at least one diamino compound, for obtaining remodeling hairstyles.

2. Use of a cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the dimerized fatty acid is prepared by coupling of unsaturated (Ci ₀ to C ₂ 4) monocarboxylic acids, in particular by coupling linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and / or oleic acid.

3. Use of a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the diamino compound is selected from at least one compound of the formula (I)

H ₂ NR -NH ₂ (I)

wherein R represents a linear (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group, a branched (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ - alkylene group, a group * -R ² -0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m -R ³ - *, wherein R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group (in particular, ethane-1, 2-diyl or propan-1, 2-diyl) and n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 100, where the sum of m + n> 0, or for a group of the formula

in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene group.

4. Use of a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized

in that the diamino compound used is a combination of at least one compound of the formula (I) and at least one compound of the formula (1-1)

H ₂ NR -NH ₂ (I)

H ₂ NR ² -0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m -R ³ -NH ₂ (1-1)

wherein R stands for a (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group, R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₂ to Ci ₀₎ alkylene group, and n and m independently represent an integer of 0 to 100, with the sum of m + n> 0.

5. Use of a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized

characterized in that at least one diamino compound is 1, 2-ethylenediamine.

6. Use of a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized

in that the polyamide has a melting temperature in a temperature range from 55 ° C to 190 ° C, in particular from 60 ° C to 160 ° C.

7. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polyamide has an average molecular weight (weight average) of 10 kDa to 1000 kDa, in particular from 50 kDa to 800 kDa, most preferably from 100 kDa to 400 kDa , having.

8. Use of a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized

in that the polyamide has an acid number of from 0.01 to 8, in particular from 0.05 to 7.

9. A method for remodeling hairdressed head hair, wherein

(ii) these hairs are reshaped and

10. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that the shaping according to (ii) using heat in a temperature range of 45 ° C to 200 ° C, in particular from 55 ° C to 160 ° C, takes place.