EP2717846A1

EP2717846A1 - Shine-producing hair-styling product with a strong hold, providing hair with a pleasant feel

Info

Publication number: EP2717846A1
Application number: EP12721279.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Burkhard Müller; Susanne Schmarje
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2011-06-10
Filing date: 2012-05-14
Publication date: 2014-04-16
Also published as: DE102011077373A1; US20140093469A1; WO2012168035A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a product for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, containing at least one solidifying anionic copolymer in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, and comprising at least one structural unit of formula (I) and at least one structural unit of formula (II) and at least one structural unit of formula (III), wherein R¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R³ represents a branched (C₁ to C₂₉) alkyl group, a branched (C₂to C₆) hydroxyalkyl group or a group *-(CH₂CH₂O)_n-R⁶, where R⁶= branched (C₁to C₂₀) alkyl and n = 1 to 30, and R⁴ and R⁵ represent a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals represents a hydrogen atom and the other represents a methyl group. The product is suitable for the temporary styling of hair and for producing shine, in particular as an aerosol hair spray or aerosol hair mousse.

Description

"Shining hair remover with strong hold and good hair feel"

The invention relates to the technical field of temporary transformation keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair. It relates in particular to hair treatment compositions comprising at least one specific anionic copolymer derived from vinylaromatic compounds and esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with branched alcohols, the use of these agents for temporary deformation and / or care keratinhaltiger fibers and aerosol sprays or aerosol foams based on these agents ,

The first most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broad in properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, e.g. Properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent, are subdivided, with the properties of the hair is of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types.

In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers. Ideally, the polymers yield a polymer film even on a small amount when applied to the hair, which on the one hand gives the hairstyle a strong hold, but on the other hand is sufficiently flexible so as not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff. In addition, the hair coated with a firming polymer often feels harsh.

Furthermore, the temporarily styled hair should look healthy and natural next to the strong hairstyle. The hair shine plays an outstanding role. Often therefore the hair styling agents so-called brighteners are added in sufficient quantity. These brighteners are, for example, oils or gloss pigments such as mica particles. Glossy particles have the disadvantage that they detach with time from the hair and after some time, for example, on the clothing or facial skin again. Oils complain the hair and sometimes lead to a deteriorated adhesion of the film-forming or firming polymers on the hair. This possibly leads to the disadvantage that the imprinted hairstyle can not be fixed by the film-forming or setting polymers over a sufficient duration. The hairstyle hangs faster. Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for temporary deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available, which is characterized by a high degree of hold, excellent gloss on the keratin fibers and good sensor of the keratin fibers (in particular a soft hair feeling) causes.

It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved by at least one specific anionic copolymer derived from vinyl aromatic compounds and esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with branched alcohols.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one solidifying anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ³ is a branched (C ₁ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -

Hydroxyalkyl group or a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n -R ⁶ where R ⁶ = branched (C 1 -C ₂₀ ) -alkyl and n = 1 to 30,

R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group

According to the above formulas and all the following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol ^{* stands} for a "free valence" of the corresponding structural fragment, to which "free valence" bind further structural fragments in the corresponding copolymer. These are previously described and optionally further structural fragments of the respective polymer.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers. As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used.

Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products such as face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail polishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

For the purposes of the invention, "crosslinked" or "crosslinking" is the linking of polymer chains to one another by covalent chemical bonding to form a network. According to the invention, an anionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries structural units with anionic groups, which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality, in a protic solvent under standard conditions and has no structural units with permanently cationic or cationizable groups. Anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The reinforcing anionic copolymer comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula II and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

(III)

as defined above. In preferred agents according to the invention, the radical R is a hydrogen atom, therefore, styrene is a preferred monomer in the copolymers used according to the invention.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain, as structural unit (II), esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with branched alcohols, the acrylic esters being preferred, so that in preferred agents R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom.

R ³ is a branched (Ci to C ₂ o) alkyl group, a branched (C ₂ to C ₆ ) - hydroxyalkyl group or a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n -R ⁶ with R ⁶ = branched (Ci to C ₂₀ ) alkyl and n = 1 to 30, where as branched alkyl groups isopropyl, sec. butyl, tert. Butyl and isooctyl (ethylhexyl) groups are preferred.

It has proved to be advantageous for the hold and shine of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention if the setting anionic copolymers have not only one structural unit of the formula (II) in which acrylic acid or methacrylic acid are esterified with branched alcohols, but additionally one Have structural unit in which acrylic acid or methacrylic acid are esterified with unbranched alcohols. Agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the reinforcing anionic copolymer comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIb) and at least one structural unit of the formula III

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom,

R ² is a hydrogen atom

R ³ is an ethylhexyl group,

R ² is a hydrogen atom

R ³ is a butyl group,

R ⁴ and R ⁵ stand for a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals for a hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group.

As a third mandatory structural unit used in the compositions of the invention

Copolymers acrylic acid (R ⁴ and R ⁵ = -H) or methacrylic acid (R ⁴ = -CH ₃ , R ⁵ = -H).

Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain as strengthening (s) anionic (s)

Polymer (e):

Copolymers of Styro with at least isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of Styro with at least sec-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of Styro with at least tert-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of Styro with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of Styro with at least sec-butyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least tert-butyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of Styro with at least isopropyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers of styrene with at least tert.butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers of Styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least tert-butyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least tertiary butyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers of Styrene with at least tert.butyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid. Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid. Copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least tertiary butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least tertiary butyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least tertiary butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least tertiary butyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with I at least sopropyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least tertiary butyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least isopropyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least sec-butyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least tertiary butyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with at least ethylhexyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

very particularly preferred invention: suitable agents contain as strengthening anionic polymer (s):

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and acrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and methyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and isopropyl acrylate and methacrylic acid copolymers of styrene with isopropyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with sec-butyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Copolymers of styrene with tert-butyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid

Copolymers of styrene with ethylhexyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid The agent according to the invention preferably contains the first anchoring anionic copolymer in an amount of from 0.01 to 29.99% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 14.9% by weight, especially preferably from 0. 1 to 9.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.2 to 7.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total ready-to-use agent.

In addition, it has proved to be preferred if the agent according to the invention contains a total amount of setting polymers from 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, 1 to 15 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.5 to 10.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent.

The effects of the invention could be increased by the addition of alkyl esters of hydroxy acids, in particular gloss and hold of the hairstyle were improved. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based in each case on the weight of the total ready-to-use agent, they contain 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0, 1 to 2.5% by weight and in particular 0, 15 to 0, Contain 5 wt .-% of at least one alkyl ester of a hydroxy acid. Very particularly preferred alkyl esters of hydroxy acids are the (C ₂ to C ₆ ) trialkyl citrates. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the agents additionally contain at least one compound of the formula (E) ROOC COOR ²

HO COOR ³

(E)

wherein

R, R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group.

Examples of a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group according to formula (E) are methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-

Butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, neopentyl, isopentyl, n-hexyl.

As a particularly preferred compound of formula (E) turned out triethyl citrate.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains the compounds of the formula (E) in an amount of from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the entire composition. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are based on the weight of the entire ready-to-use

By means of, 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0, 1 to 2.5 wt.% And in particular 0, 15 to 0.5 wt.

% Triethyl citrate.

As already mentioned above, gloss and hold of the hairstyle are improved by the additional use of the alkyl esters of hydroxy acids. The solidifying anionic polymers used according to the invention are synergistically increased in their action, in particular by the additional use of the alkyl esters of hydroxy acids, a marked increase in activity being achieved in particular by triethyl citrate.

The compositions of the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol. In the context of a preferred embodiment of the agent according to the invention, the agent therefore additionally contains at least one alcohol which has 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 hydroxyl groups. This additional alcohol is again preferably selected from at least one compound of the group formed from ethanol, ethylene glycol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, glycerol, n-butanol, 1,3-butylene glycol. A most preferred alcohol is ethanol.

Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that, based in each case on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent, they are from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 60% by weight and in particular 35 to 50 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.

The additional alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 hydroxyl groups is preferably in the agent according to the invention (in particular in the presence of at least one propellant) in an amount of 40 wt .-% to 65 wt .-%, in particular from 40 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition containing.

As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are polyethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.

In particular, the addition of propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. If, therefore, a flexible hold is desired, the agents according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.

The agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic and ampholytic surfactants in particular being suitable. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity. The use of at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one cationic surfactant is preferred in this embodiment of the invention.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .

with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis), Ci2-C ₃ o-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or

Sovermol - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (T-1)

R CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (Tl)

in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 .

Amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (T-I),

R ⁴ 0- [G] _p (T-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (T-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.

The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when used as nonionic surfactants C ₁₂ -C ₃ o- Fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-25 or Ceteareth- 50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ^® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis).

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

- Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-0- (CH2-CH20) x-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates,

sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (T-V),

O II

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P --OR ²

I

^0X (TV)

in the R preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) nR or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,

sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (T-VI)

R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (T-VI)

in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation,

amide ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^<_) in the molecule - Wear group - or -S0 ₃ ^<_). Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ - C ₂ 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts , Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d ₂ -C ₈ -acylsarcosine.

The agents according to the invention may optionally additionally contain at least one film-forming polymer and / or setting polymer. These additional polymers are different from the film-forming anionic copolymer. The optionally added film-forming and / or setting polymers are preferably cationic and / or nonionic.

The cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

In general, such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain. Of these, among the cationic cellulose derivatives are those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch. Also suitable are those cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-VI) and optionally at least one structural unit of the formula (MV)

wherein

R and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

A and A ² are each independently a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or

Butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (M-VI) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Suitable compounds are, for example, as

Copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1, under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® 755 (each ISP), and Luviquat PQ 1 1 PN (BASF SE),

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl chloride with Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 available under the trade name Styleze W-10 ^®, ^® Styleze W-20 (ISP)

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) - methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69) under the trade name Aqua Style ^® 300 (28-32 wt .-% active substance in ethanol-water mixture) (company ISP)

available in the stores.

When film-forming and / or setting polymers selected from cationic polymers containing at least one structural unit which have a permanently cationized nitrogen atom are particularly preferably used, cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula ( M1)

wherein

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,

and additionally have at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the component are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

It is again preferred according to the invention if the cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer of this embodiment contains at least one copolymer (b1) which, in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1), additionally contains a structural element of the formula (III) includes

wherein

R is a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (b1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (b1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (Ml).

It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (M1) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (b1) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1) where R "= methyl and (III) and can be represented by the general formula (polyl) (Polyl)

describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (M1) and of the formula (M-1) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) used a chloride ion, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI Nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) is a methosulfate used, these N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (b1) or at its point or agents, agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (b2) which, starting from the copolymer (b1), have structural units of the formula (M-II) as additional structural units

(M-II).

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (b2), the at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (Ml) and contains at least one structural unit of the formula (M-II)

Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b2) contain not more than 5% by weight of polymer units which result from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (III) and (M-II) into the copolymer. , preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the Copolymers (b2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (M1) and (M-II) and can be defined by the general formula (Poly2)

describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Hold by BASF ,

Very particularly preferred copolymers (b2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol% and in particular 40 mol% of structural units of the formula (I) and 40 to 60 mol%, preferably 45 to 55 mol% and in particular 60 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-II) ,

In addition to the copolymer (s) (b1) and / or (b2) or at its point, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (b3) as structural units forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers which contain structural units as structural units of the formulas (M1-a) and (I), as well as further structural units from the group of the vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (b3), the at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (Ml) and at least a structural unit according to formula (M-VII) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M-VIII)

Here, too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b3) result not only in polymer units which result from incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (III), (M-VII) and (M-VIII) into the copolymer, not more than 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (b3) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1-a), (III), (M-VII) and (M-VIII) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 3)

CH

³ (Poly3)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (M1 -a), (M-1), (M-VII) and (M-VIII) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (b3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol% and in particular 55 mol% of structural units of the formula (III) and 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-VII) and 20 to 40 mol%, preferably 25 to 35 mol% and in particular 29 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-VIII).

Among the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (M1), the following are preferred:

Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat ^® HM 552 (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ^® (BASF SE)), Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / (such as that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat Hold ^® (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazoliummethylsulfat- copolymer (for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 ^® under the trade name Luviquat Supreme (BASF SE)),

and mixtures of these polymers.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention comprise as film-forming and / or setting polymer at least one film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer.

According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries in a protic solvent under standard conditions substantially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Quaternized ammonium groups, however, do not include protonated amines under cationic groups. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15.0% by weight .-%, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive compositions.

Again, the film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers are preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group that is formed

Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,

nonionic copolymers of isobutene,

nonionic copolymers of maleic anhydride.

Preferred is a combination of film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers comprising at least one nonionic copolymer of maleic anhydride and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone.

Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE.

Suitable polyvinyl alcohols are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products.

Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ^® as an emulsion from Air Products.

Means comprising as film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group formed from

Copolymer of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether,

polyvinylpyrrolidone, Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkylamino (C ₂ -C ₄ ) -alkylacrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -alkylacrylamide, or mixtures of these polymers, are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

In this case, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer comprised of the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30:70 to 60:40 , Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer at least one copolymer (n1) containing at least one structural unit of formula (Ml) and at least one structural unit of formula (M-VII) and at least contains a structural unit according to formula (M-VIII)

In this case too, it is particularly preferred if, in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) into the copolymer, these copolymers have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (n1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) and can be represented by the general formula (poly4)

(Poly 4)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (I), (VII) and (VIII) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner. A particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers of the INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

Also suitable according to the invention are those compositions which comprise at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

X ^{1 represents} an oxygen atom or a group NH,

A is a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl

R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group.

In this case, it is particularly preferred if the above nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer is selected from at least one polymer which fulfills at least one or more of the following features:

R is a methyl group,

X ¹ stands for a group NH,

A is ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl,

R ² and R ³ , independently of one another, represent methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably

Methyl).

The nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer of this embodiment is particularly preferably at least one polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III-8),

A most preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic setting polymer of this embodiment is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N- Dimethylaminiopropylmethacrylamid, which is sold for example with the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer eg under the trade name Styleze ^® CC 10 from ISP.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.

As a care substance, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate.

The protein hydrolysates may be present in the agents according to the invention, for example in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of from 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total application preparation.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention. If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent. As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one extra kt plant. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture. Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts. The compositions of the invention contain these care substances preferably in amounts of 0.001 to 2, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.

It has been found that by adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Surprisingly, the gloss of the fibers treated with the agents according to the invention is also improved and more durable. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0, 1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred. According to preferred means according to the invention, in each case based on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 0.5 wt .-% UV filter substances.

The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, cinnamates and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000. Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain, in each case based on the weight of the total ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 0.5 wt. % Benzophenone-4 and / or isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate. In addition to the components mentioned, the agents may furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. Bentonite, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol, and optionally crosslinked polyacrylates,

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Substances for adjusting the pH, such as conventional acids, in particular

Pleasure acids, and bases,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,

Hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

Preservatives,

Antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as a lotion or pump or aerosol spray, or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.

The agents according to the invention are preferably designed as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam. For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device which either represents an additional compressed gas container ("aerosol container") filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container by definition, as an "aerosol container." As a "non-aerosol container", a container is enclosed in the reverse of the aerosol definition Normal pressure defined by means of which a product is distributed by mechanical action by a pumping or squeezing system.

With particular preference the agents according to the invention are present as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.

Compositions according to the invention, which are in the form of an aerosol product, can be prepared in a customary manner. In general, all constituents of the composition according to the invention, with the exception of the blowing agent, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced. A further subject of the present invention is therefore a kit-of-parts comprising an aerosol dispenser and a composition based on their weight

30 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 40 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 60 wt .-% of an inventive composition and

20 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 30 to 60 wt .-% and in particular 40 to 50 wt .-% of at least one blowing agent

contains.

In the embodiment as an aerosol spray suitable blowing agents according to the invention are for example selected from N ₂ 0, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.

The propellant is in the inventive compositions of the embodiment as aerosol spray preferably in an amount of 30 to 60 wt .-% - based on the weight of the total composition - included.

Very particular preference is given to using mixtures of propane and butane as the sole blowing agent in a weight ratio of propane to butane of from 20:80 to 15:85. These mixtures are again preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 30 to 55% by weight the weight of the entire agent - used. Butane according to the invention is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

The spray rate of the sprays according to the invention is preferably 6.5 to 10.0 g / 10 s. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention (aerosol sprays) are packaged in an aerosol container with a star valve with a bore of 0.27 to 0.35 mm diameter. Such valves are sold, for example, as valves of the type KE or KEN from the company. Coster.

In the embodiment as aerosol foam suitable propellants are for example selected from N ₂ 0, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons. According to the embodiment of an aerosol foam, the alkanes mentioned, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are preferably used as the sole blowing agent. Particularly preferred blowing agents are dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

When conventional aerosol containers are used, aerosol foam products preferably contain the propellant in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.

The use of the abovementioned additional preferred ingredients and the quantities or ratios of amounts specified as being preferred are, of course, also preferred in the context of all aerosol foam embodiments.

The compositions according to the invention and products which contain the agents according to the invention, in particular aerosol hair sprays and aerosol hair foams, are distinguished, in particular, by giving treated hair a very natural gloss and strong hold. A second object of the invention is the use of a composition of the first subject of the invention for producing gloss on keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.

The products according to the invention which contain these agents, in particular aerosol hair sprays, are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair remains flexible. A third object of the The invention therefore relates to the use of a composition of the first subject of the invention for the temporary deformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.

Another object of the invention is a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is applied as a spray on the keratin-containing fibers using a dispenser.

It is inventively preferred that the keratin-containing fibers are brought into shape and this form is fixed by the means of the first subject of the invention.

It is furthermore preferred if, after the application of the agent according to the invention, the agent according to the invention remains from the keratin-containing fibers, i. is not rinsed out again. As inventively preferred, the aforementioned dispensing devices or

Aerosol products.

Another object of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is foamed into a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin fibers.

Furthermore, it is preferred if, after application of the agent according to the invention, the agent according to the invention remains from the keratin-containing fibers, ie, it is not rinsed out again. As inventively preferred are the aforementioned dispensing devices.

Examples:

The following formulations were prepared by mixing the specified raw materials and filled into an aerosol can with a valve from Coster, type KE and a swirl nozzle from Coster "Standard micromist insert", type V06 The following amounts are understood - unless otherwise stated - in percent by weight.

Table 1: Recipes

Copolymer comprising structural units derived from styrene, methylacrylic acid, ethylhexyl acrylate and butyl acrylate (40% active substance)

After application of the funds E1 to E16 per strand of hair, these compositions according to the invention caused an excellent, hairstyle hold. The hair received a natural glow and felt supple.

Claims

Patent claims

1. Agent for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

at least one anchoring anionic copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group

R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals

Hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the reinforcing anionic copolymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIb) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III )

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom,

R ² is a hydrogen atom

R ³ is an ethylhexyl group,

R ² is a hydrogen atom

R ³ is a butyl group,

R ⁴ and R ⁵ stand for a hydrogen atom or one of the two radicals for a hydrogen atom and the other for a methyl group

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the strengthening anionic copolymer is preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 29.99 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 14.9 wt .-%, most preferably from 0. 1 to 9.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.2 to 7.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total ready-to-use agent.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that, based on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one alkyl ester of a hydroxy acid.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that, based in each case on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 0.5 wt .-% triethyl citrate.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it, in each case based on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent, 10 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 20 to 65 wt .-%, more preferably 30 to 60 wt .-% and in particular 35 to 50 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that, based on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% and In particular, 0.15 to 0.5 wt .-% UV filter substances.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that, based in each case on the weight of the entire ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 contains up to 0.5% by weight of benzophenone-4 and / or isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate.

9. Kit of parts, comprising an aerosol delivery device and a composition based on their weight

30 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 40 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 60 wt .-% of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 8 and

contains.

10. A method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied as a spray on the keratin-containing fibers using a dispenser.