WO2021134118A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty amine, a fatty alcohol, a vegetable fat, a cationic surfactant and a silicone cross-polymer for use in hair care - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty amine, a fatty alcohol, a vegetable fat, a cationic surfactant and a silicone cross-polymer for use in hair care Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021134118A1
WO2021134118A1 PCT/BR2019/050574 BR2019050574W WO2021134118A1 WO 2021134118 A1 WO2021134118 A1 WO 2021134118A1 BR 2019050574 W BR2019050574 W BR 2019050574W WO 2021134118 A1 WO2021134118 A1 WO 2021134118A1
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alcohol
cosmetic composition
composition
hair
carbon atoms
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PCT/BR2019/050574
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French (fr)
Inventor
Stephanie FONSECA
Leandro Valeriano DE CARVALHO
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/BR2019/050574 priority Critical patent/WO2021134118A1/en
Publication of WO2021134118A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021134118A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new styling and caring cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, especially for curly hair, containing a fatty amine, a hybrid silicone-organic polymer compounds, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin, a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant and an organic base. Additionally, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition and a method for styling hair.
  • Frizzy hair is unsightly and makes it difficult for consumers to control and maintain the hair style. This frizzy condition is particularly pronounced in dry, damaged or curly hair.
  • Curly hair tends to become frizzy and significantly expand in volume when exposed to high humidity conditions or changes in humidity environment.
  • styling mousse, gels, lotions, and spray compositions have been employed to combat these conditions.
  • compositions have been developed in order to conditioning, discipline and control the hair, in particular curly hair, enhancing/maintaining curl definition, curl retention, and curl regularity, and/or enhancing shine, without leaving the hair feeling and/or looking unnatural and stiff.
  • compositions already address cosmetic compositions to styling the hair, such as manageability of the hair and volume control.
  • Such prior arts and many of the state of the art uses latex polymers in the composition in order to achieve the desired effect.
  • a need for a stable composition with high levels of styling and which keeps the hair smooth is still an objective.
  • the inventors of the present invention surprisingly achieved a new cosmetic composition which is stable over the time, which delivers high styling and caring for curly hair due to the combination of a fatty amine, a hybrid silicone- organic polymer compounds, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin, a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant and an organic base.
  • the new cosmetic composition presents good substantivity for the hair and reduces hair frizz and controls hair volume, and is stable over the time
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • the use of the anionic silicone-organic polymer combined with the emulsified fatty amine, cationic surfactant and oily compounds result in a stable composition that is able to control the frizz and improve the visual aspect of the curls (more curl definition, curl regularity, and discipline).
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: (a) from 0.1% to 3% of at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24;
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a leave-on cosmetic composition and it is mainly for curly hair.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 2.8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 is selected from fatty amidoamine compounds chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropy
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 which includes cationizable surfactants.
  • the cationizable surfactants are selected from the compounds of the general structure
  • R4- A- R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, Rs is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, A is selected from: and B is selected from wherein R6 and Rzare the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, R10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone-organic polymer compound in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 2.8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one silicone-organic polymer is selected from a silicone polyvinyl acetate, a cross-linked anionic copolymer comprised of organic polymer blocks and silicone blocks and cross-linked anionic copolymers comprising at least one cross-linked polysiloxane structural unit.
  • the at least one silicone-organic polymer is a copolymer of crotonic acid, vinyl Ce-12 isoalkyl esters and vinyl acetate crosslinked with bis-vinyldimethicone.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least oily compound of vegetal origin compound in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 1 .4% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one oily compound of vegetal origin comprises 30% to 60% of an alkyl group having a carbon chain length of at least Cl8.
  • the oily compound of vegetal origin includes vegetal butters.
  • the vegetal butters are chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urukum butter, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol in an amount ranging from about 2.2% to 4.8% by weight, preferably from 2.5% to 4.5% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1 - tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1 -octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1 - triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 0.7% by weight including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from:
  • the groups Rs to R11 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; - a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline; a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula: in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R-izis chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, R-isa
  • the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one organic base in an amount ranging from about 0.06% to 0.095% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 0.09% by weight including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one organic base is selected from triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine) sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion.
  • composition of the present invention is directed to control the frizz and the volume of the hair.
  • the composition is for styling and caring for the hair, particularly curly hair.
  • composition of the present invention comprises additional ingredients such as organic solvents and organic acids.
  • the organic solvent is glycerin and it is present in an amount of 0.5 to 5% based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition of the invention ranges from about 4 to about 5.
  • the viscosity of the leave-on hair emulsion composition of the invention ranges from about 810 mPa.s to about 1.800 mPa.s.
  • the composition of the invention has a balance of fatty amine/cationic surfactant ranging from about 3:1 to about 1 :1 , including all ranges and subranges therebetween, or is at a ratio of about 2:5:1 or about 2:1 or about 1.7:1.
  • the composition of the invention is for the manufacturing of a product to be used as a leave-on on the hair to control the frizz, manageability of the hair, care of the hair and the volume of the hair.
  • the present invention is directed to a method for controlling the frizz and the volume of curly hair, wherein the method comprises contacting the hair with the composition.
  • the present invention also refers to a process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention further relates to a method for manufacturing the compositions of the present invention, comprising the following steps:
  • the method of the present invention can be further repeated subsequently, if desired or necessary.
  • the leave-on hair care composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the hair, preferably in traditional routines, since as will be demonstrated, different routines customized with other types of products would not enhance the benefits described above.
  • the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • compositions of the present disclosure comprise a fatty amine and may be chosen from alkyl quaternary ammonium or diammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty amine of the present invention comprises a carbon chain length from C16 to C24.
  • the fatty amine may include cationizable surfactants for example of the general structure
  • R4-A-R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from: o B
  • R6 and Rz are the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R. sub.10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
  • R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, in some embodiments, 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, R6 to R10 are same as above.
  • Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidoprop
  • Cationizable surfactants or amphiphilic surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines. in some embodiments, fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the fatty dialkylamines may be fatty dimethylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine,
  • Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines.
  • the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid.
  • Non limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the fatty amine compound is neutralized (fully or partially) with an organic acid in the composition of the present invention.
  • organic acid useful for this purpose include, but are not limited to, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, HOOC-PEG-COOH acid; citric acid, tartaric acid; betaine hydrochloride, gluconic acid or 2-ethylcaproic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid, and mixtures thereof, polycarboxylic acids selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid, mucic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, polyethylene glycol) bis(carboxymethyl)ethers, acrylic polyacid, copolymer of acrylic acid and maleic acid, polyaspartic acid, carboxylic polydi
  • the organic acid is utilized (either in its total amount or a portion of its total amount) to “neutralize” the at least one fatty amine so that the fatty dialkylamines can be combined with fatty alcohols to form a stable composition.
  • the fatty dialkylamine compounds After neutralization with an organic acid, the fatty dialkylamine compounds exhibit a cationic charge and therefore have properties similar to a cationic surfactant. This allows the fatty dialkylamine compounds to provide conditioning and discipline benefits to the hair.
  • the total amount of the organic acid may vary but is typically in an amount sufficient to neutralize the at least one fatty amine.
  • the total amount of the fatty amine ranges from about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, such as from about 0.2% to about 2.9% by weight, from about 0.4% to about 2.7% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.6% to about 2.2%, by weight of active material, based on the total weight of the composition of the present disclosure, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition of the present disclosure.
  • the at least one silicone-organic polymer compound of the present invention includes, but is not limited to, a silicone polyvinyl acetate compound.
  • the silicone-organic polymer hybrid compound of the present invention may also be chosen from a cross-linked anionic copolymer comprised of organic polymer blocks and silicone blocks, resulting in a multiblock polymer structure.
  • the silicone-organic polymer compound of the present invention may be chosen from cross-linked anionic copolymers comprising at least one cross-linked polysiloxane structural unit. Examples of these polymers have been described in the PCT publication, WO2011069786, published June 16, 2011 .
  • a particularly preferred silicone-organic polymer compound of the present invention is a compound having the INCI name of Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer which is a copolymer of Crotonic Acid, vinyl C8-12 isoalkyl esters and Vinyl Acetate crosslinked with bis- vinyldimethicone.
  • This compound is commercially available from the company Wacker Chemie AG as an alcoholic dispersion under the tradename Wacker Belsil® P1101 (may also be known under the tradename Wacker Belsil® P101 ).
  • Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer is also known by the technical name of Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer.
  • An alcoholic solution containing the at least one silicone-organic polymer compound may be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 1 to about 12% by weight, such as from about 2 to about 10% by weight, or such as from about 4 to about 8% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the at least one silicone-organic polymer compound is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.2 to about 2.9% by weight, or more preferably from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the weight of the composition. These weights are on a dry weight basis.
  • the silicone-organic polymer compound is neutralized (fully or partially) with a neutralizing agent (organic base) in order to remain solubilized in the composition of the present invention.
  • a neutralizing agent organic base
  • Representative examples of neutralizing agent useful for this purpose include AMP (aminomethyl propanol), AMPD (aminomethyl propanediol), TIPA (triisopropanol amine), sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, Dimethylstearylamine, Dimethyl/tallowamine lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of neutralizer is selected on criteria that include the desired pH of the composition.
  • the amount of neutralizer generally ranges from greater than 0 (e.g., about 0.01%) to about 1%, in some embodiments from 0.02% to about 0.8%, in other embodiments from 0.04% to about 0.6% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the silicone-organic polymer compound is partially neutralized, that is from 80% to less than 100% neutralized.
  • the silicone-organic polymer compound can be 80%, or 85%, or 90%, or 95% neutralized.
  • the amount of the neutralizing agent is such that a desired of degree of neutralization can be achieved.
  • the silicone-organic polymer compound is 100% neutralized.
  • the silicone-organic polymer compound is at least 80% neutralized.
  • plant-based or vegetal oils include non-limiting example include plant-based or vegetal oils such as acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, rose hip oil, ajwain oil, angelic root oil, anise oil, aragan oil, asafetida, balsam oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon
  • Suitable oily compounds for use in the leave-on hair emulsion compositions of the present invention can also be selected from vegetal butters such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
  • the suitable oily compound of vegetal origin of the present invention is selected from Karite Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), namely shea butter.
  • the oily compound of vegetal origin may be present in the emulsion composition of the invention at a concentration from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 1 .4% and more preferably from between about 0.5% to about 1 % by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions hereof include at least one fatty alcohol.
  • fatty alcohol means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated.
  • the fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid.
  • the hair treatment compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those that are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, that is to say they have a water solubility of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
  • the solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol.
  • R does not contain a hydroxyl group.
  • oleic alcohol linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-decyl-1 -tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -cetanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol.
  • the hair treatment compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl, myristyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
  • the hair treatment compositions preferably include cetearyl alcohol.
  • the amount of each of the at least one fatty alcohol is from about 2% to about 8%, or from about 2.3% to about 7.5%, or from about 2.5% to about 7%, or from about or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the amount of each of the at least one fatty alcohol is from about 2% to about 8%, or from about 2.3% to about 7.5%, or from about 2.5% to about 7%, or from about or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • any one of the at least one fatty alcohol is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0.1 , 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1 , 1.1 , 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1 .6, 1 .8, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5 to about 5 wt.%, including increments and ranges therein and there between, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • compositions hereof may include at least one cationic surfactant.
  • cationic surfactant means a surfactant that may be positively charged when it is contained in the compositions according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.
  • Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidoprop
  • the cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamid
  • the cationic surfactant comprises cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
  • Behentrimonium Chloride also described by the technical names that include 1-Docosanaminium, N,N,N- Trimethyl-, Chloride, and N,N,N-Trimethyl-1-Docosanaminium Chloride, is the quaternary ammonium salt that conforms to the formula:
  • the amount of each of the at least one cationic surfactant is from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or from about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, or from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 1.5 to about 5 wt.% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the amount of each of the at least one cationic surfactant is from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or from about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, or from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 1.5 to about 5 wt.% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the at least one cationic surfactant is present from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, and in some particular embodiments is present from about 1 to about 3 wt.%, and when present, an acid neutralizer is present from about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumb
  • the cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain.
  • quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include: those corresponding to the general formula below: in which the groups Rs to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, in some embodiments, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III) those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
  • tetraalkylammonium salts for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12
  • a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline such as, for example, those of formula below: in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups , in some embodiments, comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Ri2and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4, in some embodiments, denotes a methyl group, and R15, in some embodiments, denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • C. a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt in particular of formula: in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R-izis chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Rie, R19, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex
  • the cationic charge such as cationic surfactants improve detangling, moisturizing and smoothness, presenting the function of a conditioning agent.
  • the total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant may vary but is typically about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, preferably about 0.2% to about 3.5%, preferably 0.5% to 3.0% including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
  • the total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is about 0.1%, 0.125%, 0.15%, 0.175%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, 0.33%, 0.35%, 0.375%, 0.4%, 0.425%, 0.45%, 0.475%, 0.5%, 0.525%, 0.55%, 0.575%, 0.6%, 0.625%, 0.65%, 0.675%, 0.7%, 0.725%, 0 .75%, 0.775%, 0.8%, 0.825%, 0.83%, 0.85%, 0.875%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.25%, 1.50%, 1.75%, 2%, 2.25%, 2.5%, 2.75%, 3%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
  • compositions according to various embodiments of the disclosure may be aqueous.
  • Water can be present in total amounts of about 95% or less, such as from about 95% to about 5% by weight, or about 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% or less, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • water can be present in an amount of about 95%, such as about 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Additionally, water can be present in the compositions of the present disclosure in the amount of from about 20% to about 95% by weight, from about 40% to about 90% by weight, or from about 50% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.
  • water can be present in the compositions of the present disclosure in the amount of at least about 95%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 45%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to xanthan gum, poly Cio- 30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include salicylic acid and sodium benzoate.
  • Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 95% by weight, or from about 20 to about 85% by weight, or from about 30 to about 75% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 75% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 75% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, dipalmitoylethyl hidroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone and caprylyl methicone.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • Exemplary of polymers include, but not limited to octenylsuccinate, xanthan gam, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and styrene/acrylates copolymer.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from 20% to 90%, such as from 25% to 85% or such as from 30 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • the present invention further relates to a method for manufacturing the compositions of the present invention, comprising the following steps:
  • the method of the present invention can be further repeated subsequently, if desired or necessary.
  • Suitable compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 1 to 5, as follows:
  • a comparative composition is as Example 6 below:
  • compositions of EX. 1 (present invention) and EX. 6 (comparative) were submitted to an expert test, wherein six volunteers tested both products as a daily product. The results were measured/observed by the experts in wet and dry hair.
  • composition of EX. 1 imparted to dry hair, more curl regularity, more curl definition, discipline, shine and less frizz, over the composition of EX. 6.
  • EX. 1 presents better frizz and volume control, which are both key attributes for curly woman in Brazil.
  • the invention provides loose curls and movement for consumers.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a new styling and caring cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, especially for curly hair, containing a fatty amine, a hybrid silicone-organic polymer compounds, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin, a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant and an organic base. Additionally, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition, and a method for styling hair. The present invention further relates to a method for manufacturing the compositions of the present invention.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY AMINE, A FATTY ALCOHOL, A VEGETABLE FAT, A CATIONIC SURFACTANT AND A SILICONE CROSS-POLYMER FOR USE IN HAIR CARE
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a new styling and caring cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, especially for curly hair, containing a fatty amine, a hybrid silicone-organic polymer compounds, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin, a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant and an organic base. Additionally, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition, process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition and a method for styling hair.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
People have been using a number of cosmetic and personal care compositions to enhance the look and feel of keratin fibers, such as the hair. Exposure to humid conditions and chemical procedures can cause an excessively expanded volume (i.e., “frizz volume”), or appear frizzy. This frizzy condition of hair often appears unruly and is often characterized with a multiplicity of fly-away strands of hair. Frizzy hair is unsightly and makes it difficult for consumers to control and maintain the hair style. This frizzy condition is particularly pronounced in dry, damaged or curly hair.
Curly hair tends to become frizzy and significantly expand in volume when exposed to high humidity conditions or changes in humidity environment.
For temporary control, styling mousse, gels, lotions, and spray compositions have been employed to combat these conditions.
Many attempts of compositions have been developed in order to conditioning, discipline and control the hair, in particular curly hair, enhancing/maintaining curl definition, curl retention, and curl regularity, and/or enhancing shine, without leaving the hair feeling and/or looking unnatural and stiff.
Unfortunately, the products of the state of the art usually leave the hair stiff and unmanageable after application and negatively affect ease of combing and hair feel.
According to the US 9,814,669 and US 20160175238, many compositions already address cosmetic compositions to styling the hair, such as manageability of the hair and volume control. Such prior arts and many of the state of the art uses latex polymers in the composition in order to achieve the desired effect. However, even achieving a satisfactory result, a need for a stable composition with high levels of styling and which keeps the hair smooth is still an objective.
Furthermore, as disclosed by US 9,622,945, many compositions have been proposed to overcome the frizz effect of the hair. A conventional approach to reducing the frizzy appearance of hair is by applying silicones to the hair. However, the use of silicones alone is often impractical, because while they may effectively reduce the frizzy appearance of hair, they can also weigh down the hair and/or cause the hair to feel greasy and tacky. Conventional compositions may also flake off or leave unsightly residues or unwanted product buildup.
Therefore, it is desirable for manufacturers to formulate a leave-on hair composition without the drawbacks described above, and that delivers high styling and caring for curly hair and that can impart superior frizz and volume control to the hair.
Besides the drawbacks mentioned above, it should be mentioned that the stabilization of this type of composition is an important matter, due to different chemical classes of the ingredients.
In this sense, the inventors of the present invention surprisingly achieved a new cosmetic composition which is stable over the time, which delivers high styling and caring for curly hair due to the combination of a fatty amine, a hybrid silicone- organic polymer compounds, an oily compound derived from vegetal origin, a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant and an organic base.
The new cosmetic composition presents good substantivity for the hair and reduces hair frizz and controls hair volume, and is stable over the time
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) least one fatty amine; (b) at least one silicone-organic polymer compound; (c) at least one oily compound of vegetal origin; (d) at least one fatty alcohol; (e) at least one cationic surfactant; and (f) at least one organic base.
In other words, the use of the anionic silicone-organic polymer combined with the emulsified fatty amine, cationic surfactant and oily compounds result in a stable composition that is able to control the frizz and improve the visual aspect of the curls (more curl definition, curl regularity, and discipline).
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: (a) from 0.1% to 3% of at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24;
(b) from 0.1% to 3% of at least one silicone-organic polymer compound;
(c) from 0.1% to 1.5% of at least one oily compound of vegetal origin;
(d) from 2.0% to 8.0% of at least one fatty alcohol;
(e) from 0,1 % to 3% of at least one cationic surfactant; and
(f) from 0,03% to 0,2% of at least one organic base; all weights relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention is a leave-on cosmetic composition and it is mainly for curly hair.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 2.8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 is selected from fatty amidoamine compounds chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 which includes cationizable surfactants.
In a preferred embodiment, the cationizable surfactants are selected from the compounds of the general structure
R4- A- R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, Rs is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, A is selected from:
Figure imgf000005_0001
and B is selected from
Figure imgf000005_0002
wherein R6 and Rzare the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and
Figure imgf000005_0003
wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, R10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone-organic polymer compound in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 2.8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one silicone-organic polymer is selected from a silicone polyvinyl acetate, a cross-linked anionic copolymer comprised of organic polymer blocks and silicone blocks and cross-linked anionic copolymers comprising at least one cross-linked polysiloxane structural unit.
In a more preferred embodiment, the at least one silicone-organic polymer is a copolymer of crotonic acid, vinyl Ce-12 isoalkyl esters and vinyl acetate crosslinked with bis-vinyldimethicone.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least oily compound of vegetal origin compound in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 1 .4% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one oily compound of vegetal origin comprises 30% to 60% of an alkyl group having a carbon chain length of at least Cl8.
In a preferred embodiment, the oily compound of vegetal origin includes vegetal butters.
In a preferred embodiment, the vegetal butters are chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urukum butter, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol in an amount ranging from about 2.2% to 4.8% by weight, preferably from 2.5% to 4.5% by weight including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1 - tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1 -octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1 - triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 0.7% by weight including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from a quaternary ammonium salt with a carbon chain length from C12 to C24.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from:
- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below:
Figure imgf000007_0001
in which the groups Rs to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; - a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline; a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula:
Figure imgf000007_0002
in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R-izis chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, R-isa, R-is, Ri9, R2oand R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one organic base in an amount ranging from about 0.06% to 0.095% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 0.09% by weight including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic base is selected from triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine) sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion.
Also, the composition of the present invention is directed to control the frizz and the volume of the hair.
In another embodiment, the composition is for styling and caring for the hair, particularly curly hair.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises additional ingredients such as organic solvents and organic acids.
In a more preferred embodiment, the organic solvent is glycerin and it is present in an amount of 0.5 to 5% based on the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition of the invention ranges from about 4 to about 5.
The viscosity of the leave-on hair emulsion composition of the invention ranges from about 810 mPa.s to about 1.800 mPa.s.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention has a balance of fatty amine/cationic surfactant ranging from about 3:1 to about 1 :1 , including all ranges and subranges therebetween, or is at a ratio of about 2:5:1 or about 2:1 or about 1.7:1. In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is for the manufacturing of a product to be used as a leave-on on the hair to control the frizz, manageability of the hair, care of the hair and the volume of the hair.
Moreover, the present invention is directed to a method for controlling the frizz and the volume of curly hair, wherein the method comprises contacting the hair with the composition.
The present invention also refers to a process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition.
The present invention further relates to a method for manufacturing the compositions of the present invention, comprising the following steps:
Step (A)
1 - Add 30 to 50% of water and start heating to 55-65°C
2- Add preservatives and Mix. Low-Medium Shear
3- At 55-65°C add cationic surfactant, shea butter, fatty alcohol. Medium shear. Heat.
4- At 70-75QC increase the shear to proceed to emulsification.
5- After a few minutes, start cooling and decrease shear.
6- Add additional ingredients
7- Add remaining water
8- Add annex
Annex: Neutralize silicone with organic base (may contain 8-10% of water).
The method of the present invention can be further repeated subsequently, if desired or necessary.
In addition, the leave-on hair care composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the hair, preferably in traditional routines, since as will be demonstrated, different routines customized with other types of products would not enhance the benefits described above.
TERMS
As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or process conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
FATTY AMINE The compositions of the present disclosure comprise a fatty amine and may be chosen from alkyl quaternary ammonium or diammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the fatty amine of the present invention comprises a carbon chain length from C16 to C24. In another embodiment, the fatty amine may include cationizable surfactants for example of the general structure
R4-A-R5 — B; wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from:
Figure imgf000010_0001
o B
I! j
— c — B — and B is selected from
Figure imgf000010_0002
wherein R6 and Rz are the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and
Figure imgf000011_0001
wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R. sub.10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
In some instances, R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, in some embodiments, 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, R6 to R10 are same as above.
Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl amine, lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine, lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl buylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearamidopropyl amine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyldibutylamine, stearamidopropyl butylamine, stearamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl amine, behenamidopropyl methylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dibutylamine, behenamidopropyl butylamine, behenamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilauramidopropyl methylamine, dilauramidopropyl buylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl tri hydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropyl amine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl buylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl amine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyl diethylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl buylamine, myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearoylpropyl amine, stearoylpropyl methylamine, stearoylpropyl diethylamine, stearoylpropyl dibutylamine, stearoylpropyl butylamine, stearoylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl amine, behenylpropyl methylamine, behenylpropyl diethylamine, behenylpropyl dibutylamine, behenylpropyl butylamine, behenylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl methylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl ethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitylpropyl propylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauroylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropyl buylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distearylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl tri hydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylpropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyldihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
Cationizable surfactants or amphiphilic surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines. in some embodiments, fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the fatty dialkylamines may be fatty dimethylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
The fatty amine compound is neutralized (fully or partially) with an organic acid in the composition of the present invention. Representative examples of organic acid useful for this purpose include, but are not limited to, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, HOOC-PEG-COOH acid; citric acid, tartaric acid; betaine hydrochloride, gluconic acid or 2-ethylcaproic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid, and mixtures thereof, polycarboxylic acids selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid, mucic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, polyethylene glycol) bis(carboxymethyl)ethers, acrylic polyacid, copolymer of acrylic acid and maleic acid, polyaspartic acid, carboxylic polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof, sulfonic acid selected from benzene sulfonic acid, sulfonic acid HS020H, taurine, 2-[4-(2-hydroxy- ethyl)-piperazin-1 -yl]ethane sulfonic acid (or HEPES), and (3E)-3-(4-{(E)-[7,7- dimethyl-3-oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)bicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-ylidene]methyl}benzylidene)-7,7- dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]hept-1 -yl]methane sulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof, trichloroacetic acid, L- polyethylene glycol) bis(carboxymethyl)ether having a molecular weight of 250 g/mol, salicylic acid derivatives, jasmonic acid derivative, 3- hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentyl acetic acid, 2-[4-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)-piperazin-1 -yl]- ethanesulfonic acid, pyruvic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, aspartic acid, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid and mixtures thereof, at least one di-carboyxlic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the organic acid is utilized (either in its total amount or a portion of its total amount) to “neutralize” the at least one fatty amine so that the fatty dialkylamines can be combined with fatty alcohols to form a stable composition. After neutralization with an organic acid, the fatty dialkylamine compounds exhibit a cationic charge and therefore have properties similar to a cationic surfactant. This allows the fatty dialkylamine compounds to provide conditioning and discipline benefits to the hair. The total amount of the organic acid may vary but is typically in an amount sufficient to neutralize the at least one fatty amine.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of the fatty amine ranges from about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, such as from about 0.2% to about 2.9% by weight, from about 0.4% to about 2.7% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.6% to about 2.2%, by weight of active material, based on the total weight of the composition of the present disclosure, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition of the present disclosure.
SILICONE-ORGANIC POLYMER
The at least one silicone-organic polymer compound of the present invention includes, but is not limited to, a silicone polyvinyl acetate compound.
The silicone-organic polymer hybrid compound of the present invention may also be chosen from a cross-linked anionic copolymer comprised of organic polymer blocks and silicone blocks, resulting in a multiblock polymer structure.
In particular, the silicone-organic polymer compound of the present invention may be chosen from cross-linked anionic copolymers comprising at least one cross-linked polysiloxane structural unit. Examples of these polymers have been described in the PCT publication, WO2011069786, published June 16, 2011 .
A particularly preferred silicone-organic polymer compound of the present invention is a compound having the INCI name of Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer which is a copolymer of Crotonic Acid, vinyl C8-12 isoalkyl esters and Vinyl Acetate crosslinked with bis- vinyldimethicone. This compound is commercially available from the company Wacker Chemie AG as an alcoholic dispersion under the tradename Wacker Belsil® P1101 (may also be known under the tradename Wacker Belsil® P101 ). Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer is also known by the technical name of Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer.
An alcoholic solution containing the at least one silicone-organic polymer compound may be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 1 to about 12% by weight, such as from about 2 to about 10% by weight, or such as from about 4 to about 8% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the weight of the composition. The at least one silicone-organic polymer compound is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.2 to about 2.9% by weight, or more preferably from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the weight of the composition. These weights are on a dry weight basis.
The silicone-organic polymer compound is neutralized (fully or partially) with a neutralizing agent (organic base) in order to remain solubilized in the composition of the present invention. Representative examples of neutralizing agent useful for this purpose include AMP (aminomethyl propanol), AMPD (aminomethyl propanediol), TIPA (triisopropanol amine), sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, Dimethylstearylamine, Dimethyl/tallowamine lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof. The amount of neutralizer is selected on criteria that include the desired pH of the composition. Thus, the amount of neutralizer generally ranges from greater than 0 (e.g., about 0.01%) to about 1%, in some embodiments from 0.02% to about 0.8%, in other embodiments from 0.04% to about 0.6% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the weight of the composition.
In certain embodiments of the present invention, the silicone-organic polymer compound is partially neutralized, that is from 80% to less than 100% neutralized. For example, the silicone-organic polymer compound can be 80%, or 85%, or 90%, or 95% neutralized. Thus, in certain embodiments, the amount of the neutralizing agent is such that a desired of degree of neutralization can be achieved.
In other embodiments of the present invention, the silicone-organic polymer compound is 100% neutralized.
In yet other embodiments of the present invention, the silicone-organic polymer compound is at least 80% neutralized.
OILY COMPOUND OF VEGETAL ORIGIN
The suitable oily compounds of vegetal origin for use in the leave-on hair emulsion compositions of the present invention are selected from plant-based or vegetal oils include non-limiting example include plant-based or vegetal oils such as acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, rose hip oil, ajwain oil, angelic root oil, anise oil, aragan oil, asafetida, balsam oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander oil, costmary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, cypress, cypriol, curry leaf, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, galangal, geranium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod, grapefruit oil, henna oil, helichrysum, horseradish oil, hyssop, Idaho tansy, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass, marjoram, melaleuca, lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neem tree oil, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, orris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, patchouli oil, perilla oil, pennyroyal oil, peppermint oil, petitgrain, pine oil, plum oil, ravensara, red cedar, roman chamomile, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schisandra oil, spikenard, spruce, star anise oil, tangerine, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, tsuga oil, turmeric, valerian, vetiver oil, western red cedar, wintergreen, yarrow oil, ylang- ylang, and zedoary oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, flax oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, arara oil, shea butter oil and rapeseed oil.
Suitable oily compounds for use in the leave-on hair emulsion compositions of the present invention can also be selected from vegetal butters such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Karite Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter. In a preferred embodiment the suitable oily compound of vegetal origin of the present invention is selected from Karite Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), namely shea butter.
The oily compound of vegetal origin may be present in the emulsion composition of the invention at a concentration from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 1 .4% and more preferably from between about 0.5% to about 1 % by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.
FATTY ALCOHOLS
In accordance with the disclosure, compositions hereof include at least one fatty alcohol.
The term "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated. The fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In some instances, it is preferable that the hair treatment compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol. The solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those that are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, that is to say they have a water solubility of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
The solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
In particular, it is possible to mention, alone or as a mixture: lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1 - eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1 -docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1 -octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1 - triacontanol).
Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
The liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those containing C10-C34, preferably have branched carbon chains and/or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated (C=C double bond), and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
The liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C12-C24 double bond C=C), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These include oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-decyl-1 -tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -cetanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol.
In some instances, the hair treatment compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl, myristyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the hair treatment compositions preferably include cetearyl alcohol.
In accordance with the various embodiments, when present, the amount of each of the at least one fatty alcohol is from about 2% to about 8%, or from about 2.3% to about 7.5%, or from about 2.5% to about 7%, or from about or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
Thus, any one of the at least one fatty alcohol is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0.1 , 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1 , 1.1 , 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1 .6, 1 .8, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5 to about 5 wt.%, including increments and ranges therein and there between, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
SURFACTANTS In accordance with the disclosure, compositions hereof may include at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that may be positively charged when it is contained in the compositions according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant comprises cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Behentrimonium Chloride, also described by the technical names that include 1-Docosanaminium, N,N,N- Trimethyl-, Chloride, and N,N,N-Trimethyl-1-Docosanaminium Chloride, is the quaternary ammonium salt that conforms to the formula:
Figure imgf000021_0001
In accordance with some embodiments, the amount of each of the at least one cationic surfactant is from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or from about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, or from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 1.5 to about 5 wt.% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. In some particular embodiments, the at least one cationic surfactant, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer, is present from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, and in some particular embodiments is present from about 1 to about 3 wt.%, and when present, an acid neutralizer is present from about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphen bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCI, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1 , procainehydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride, and hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide.
The cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain.
A. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include: those corresponding to the general formula below:
Figure imgf000022_0001
in which the groups Rs to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, in some embodiments, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
B. a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula below:
Figure imgf000023_0001
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups , in some embodiments, comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Ri2and R13, in some embodiments, denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4, in some embodiments, denotes a methyl group, and R15, in some embodiments, denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;
C. a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula:
Figure imgf000023_0002
in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R-izis chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Rie, R19, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75).
The cationic charge such as cationic surfactants improve detangling, moisturizing and smoothness, presenting the function of a conditioning agent.
The total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant may vary but is typically about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, preferably about 0.2% to about 3.5%, preferably 0.5% to 3.0% including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
In various embodiments, the total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is about 0.1%, 0.125%, 0.15%, 0.175%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, 0.33%, 0.35%, 0.375%, 0.4%, 0.425%, 0.45%, 0.475%, 0.5%, 0.525%, 0.55%, 0.575%, 0.6%, 0.625%, 0.65%, 0.675%, 0.7%, 0.725%, 0 .75%, 0.775%, 0.8%, 0.825%, 0.83%, 0.85%, 0.875%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.25%, 1.50%, 1.75%, 2%, 2.25%, 2.5%, 2.75%, 3%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
WATER
The compositions according to various embodiments of the disclosure may be aqueous. Water can be present in total amounts of about 95% or less, such as from about 95% to about 5% by weight, or about 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% or less, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In further embodiments, water can be present in an amount of about 95%, such as about 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Additionally, water can be present in the compositions of the present disclosure in the amount of from about 20% to about 95% by weight, from about 40% to about 90% by weight, or from about 50% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.
In other embodiments, water can be present in the compositions of the present disclosure in the amount of at least about 95%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 45%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to xanthan gum, poly Cio- 30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include salicylic acid and sodium benzoate.
Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In various embodiments, the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 95% by weight, or from about 20 to about 85% by weight, or from about 30 to about 75% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 75% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 75% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, dipalmitoylethyl hidroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone and caprylyl methicone. Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
Exemplary of polymers, include, but not limited to octenylsuccinate, xanthan gam, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and styrene/acrylates copolymer.
The additional ingredients, including the solvents, may represent from 20% to 90%, such as from 25% to 85% or such as from 30 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention.
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.
METHODS
The present invention further relates to a method for manufacturing the compositions of the present invention, comprising the following steps:
Step (A)
1 - Add 30 to 50% of water and start heating to 55-65°C
2- Add preservatives and Mix. Low-Medium Shear
3- At 55-65°C add cationic surfactant, shea butter, fatty alcohol. Medium shear. Heat.
4- At 70-75QC increase the shear to proceed to emulsification.
5- After a few minutes, start cooling and decrease shear.
6- Add additional ingredients
7- Add remaining water
8- Add annex
Annex: Neutralize silicone with organic base (may contain 8-10% of water).
The method of the present invention can be further repeated subsequently, if desired or necessary.
EXAMPLES
EXAMPLES 1 TO 5
Suitable compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 1 to 5, as follows:
Figure imgf000026_0001
Figure imgf000027_0001
* Available under the tradename BELSIL P1101 from the company Wacker
EXAMPLE 6
A comparative composition is as Example 6 below:
Figure imgf000028_0001
EXAMPLE 7
The compositions of EX. 1 (present invention) and EX. 6 (comparative) were submitted to an expert test, wherein six volunteers tested both products as a daily product. The results were measured/observed by the experts in wet and dry hair.
As a result, the composition of EX. 1 imparted to wet hair, less frizz, smooth touch and more suppleness, over the composition of EX. 6.
Additionally, the composition of EX. 1 imparted to dry hair, more curl regularity, more curl definition, discipline, shine and less frizz, over the composition of EX. 6.
EXAMPLE 8
A qualitative test was conducted with fifteen women in order to evaluate the performance of the compositions of EX. 1 (present invention) and EX. 6 (comparative), during 10 days. After 10 days of usage, EX. 6 presented problems with clean feel because the hair got oily and also, consumers complained about mainly frizz and volume control. The EX. 1 , on the other hand, presented good evaluation through all attributes, as shown in the table below during the entire study duration.
Therefore, as a conclusion, EX. 1 presents better frizz and volume control, which are both key attributes for curly woman in Brazil. The invention provides loose curls and movement for consumers.
Figure imgf000029_0001

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS
1 . A cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) from 0.1% to 3% of at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from Ci6 to C24;
(b) from 0.1% to 3% of at least one silicone-organic polymer compound;
(c) from 0.1% to 1 .5% of at least one oily compound of vegetal origin;
(d) from 2.0% to 8% of at least one fatty alcohol;
(e) from 0,1% to 3% of at least one cationic surfactant; and
(f) from 0.03% to 0.2% of at least one organic base.
2. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24 includes cationizable surfactants selected from compounds of the general structure
R4- A- R5 — B wherein FU is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, Rs is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, A is selected from:
Figure imgf000030_0001
and B is selected from
Figure imgf000030_0002
wherein R6 and Rzare the same or different is H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and
Figure imgf000031_0001
wherein Rs and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof.
3. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty amine includes fatty amidoamine compounds chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
4. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the silicone-organic polymer compound is selected from a silicone polyvinyl acetate, a cross-linked anionic copolymer comprised of organic polymer blocks and silicone blocks and cross-linked anionic copolymers comprising at least one cross-linked polysiloxane structural unit.
5. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 4, wherein the silicone-organic polymer compound is a copolymer of crotonic acid, vinyl C8-12 isoalkyl esters and vinyl acetate crosslinked with bis-vinyldimethicone.
6. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the oily compound of vegetal origin comprises 30% to 60% of an alkyl group having a carbon chain length of at least C18.
7. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 6, wherein the oily compound of vegetal origin includes vegetal butters.
8. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from of cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol),, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1- octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1 -triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
9. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from a quaternary ammonium salt with a carbon chain length from Ci2 to C24.
10. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from - quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below:
Figure imgf000032_0001
in which the groups Rsto R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rsto R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline;
- a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula:
Figure imgf000032_0002
in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ris, Ri9, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
11. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 2, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride.
12. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the organic base is selected from triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine) sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
13. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is the form of an emulsion for styling and caring for hair, in particular, curly hair.
14. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition further comprises additional ingredients such as organic solvents and organic acids.
15. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 14, wherein the organic solvent is glycerin, present in amount of 0.5 to 5% based on the total weight of the composition.
16. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 810 to 1 ,800 mPa.s.
17. A cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition has a pH ranging from 4 to 5.
18. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) from 0.1% to 3% of at least one fatty amine with a carbon chain length from C16 to C24; (b) from 0.1% to 3% of at least one silicone-organic polymer compound;
(c) from 0.1% to 1.5% of at least one oily compound of vegetal origin;
(d) from 2.0% to 8.0% of at least one fatty alcohol;
(e) from 0,1% to 3,0% of at least one cationic surfactant; and
(f) from 0,03% to 0,2% of at least one organic base, for styling hair, caring for hair, manageability of the hair, controlling frizz in hair and volume of hair, wherein the composition is the form of an emulsion.
19. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, wherein it comprises the steps of: i) Adding water and heating the water to 55-65°C ii) Adding preservatives and mixing with low-medium shear; iii) Adding a cationic surfactant, shea butter, fatty alcohol at 55-65QC iv) Heating the mixture, and at 70-75°C increase shear to proceed emulsification; v) Cooling and decreasing shear; vi) adding additional ingredients; vii)adding remaining water; viii) adding an annex mixture, wherein the annex comprises silicone neutralized with an organic base.
20. Process, according to claim 19, wherein after steps i) to viii), 8 to 10% of water is added to the mixture.
21. A method for styling hair, comprising the step of contacting the hair with a composition of claim 1.
22. The method according to claim 21 , further comprising leaving the composition on the hair as a leave-on product.
23. The method according to claim 21 , the method comprising imparting volume and/or styling and/or frizz control and/or caring to hair.
PCT/BR2019/050574 2019-12-30 2019-12-30 Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty amine, a fatty alcohol, a vegetable fat, a cationic surfactant and a silicone cross-polymer for use in hair care WO2021134118A1 (en)

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