WO2022000051A1 - Cosmetic compositions capable of forming an emulsion - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions capable of forming an emulsion Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022000051A1
WO2022000051A1 PCT/BR2020/050234 BR2020050234W WO2022000051A1 WO 2022000051 A1 WO2022000051 A1 WO 2022000051A1 BR 2020050234 W BR2020050234 W BR 2020050234W WO 2022000051 A1 WO2022000051 A1 WO 2022000051A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
alcohol
cosmetic composition
composition
fatty
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/BR2020/050234
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Thamires Calegari RODRIGUES
Ana Claudia Meda SILOTO
João Paulo Duarte GUIMARAES
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to BR112022017300A priority Critical patent/BR112022017300A2/en
Priority to PCT/BR2020/050234 priority patent/WO2022000051A1/en
Priority to FR2008549A priority patent/FR3111794B1/en
Publication of WO2022000051A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022000051A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262Transparent; Translucent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the instant disclosure is related to cosmetic compositions capable of forming an emulsion, and particularly those forming an emulsion in situ upon combination with extraneous water.
  • the instant disclosure also relates to methods for using the cosmetic compositions.
  • compositions for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning keratinous substances such as skin or hair. Hair and skin are exposed to intrinsic and extrinsic influences such as environmental factors, mechanical factors, chemical factors, heat, and aging.
  • the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by heat, mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing, blow-drying, flat ironing, or even repeated washing can damage and weaken hair fibers.
  • hair may become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends, resulting in split ends.
  • hair care compositions such as hair conditioner and/or treatment compositions, may be used before or after the hair has been washed with shampoo and/or subjected to a chemical treatment in order to improve or return to the hair its natural luster, shine, and softness, or to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of hair.
  • haircare and skin care compositions can provide different benefits.
  • Haircare compositions intended to be applied regularly to the hair, may be, for example, hair shampoos, conditioners, or masks.
  • consumers seek to use other products that can provide improved cosmetic benefits, such as sera, gels, hair lotions or care creams. It is in particular known practice to use compositions in the form of oily sera, containing combinations of silicone oils or non-silicone oils.
  • oils for dry hair treatments has increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. However, it is still a challenge to manufacturers to formulate such products to be longer lasting (e.g., at least 8 hours) and which are less time consuming and labor intensive to use.
  • silicones in a composition may present difficulties in preparing the compositions in various formulations.
  • conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents are known to provide various conditioning benefits.
  • the instant disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that provide a unique sensorial and consumer experience by forming an emulsion with increased viscosity upon the addition (e.g., combination) of extraneous water and, in particular, forming an emulsion with increased viscosity in situ on wet hand(s), wet skin, wet hair, etc.
  • the cosmetic compositions are typically translucent or transparent prior to combination with extraneous water and are opaque or substantially opaque after combination with extraneous water.
  • the unique functional properties of the cosmetic compositions during use results in improved manageability, long-lasting style and frizz control, and smoothness.
  • the cosmetic compositions typically include: a) about 20 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols comprising:
  • the cosmetic composition is typically anhydrous or substantially anhydrous, is liquid and transparent, with a viscosity ranging from about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at 25 Q C, and a pH that ranges from about 1 to about 14, before being combined with extraneous water (/.e., water other than the water of component g)), and after the combination with the extraneous water, the hair care cosmetic composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, preferably ranging from about 5 mPa.s to about 10,000 mPa.s.
  • the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion can have a lamellar phase structure.
  • the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion has a viscosity that is greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water.
  • the instant disclosure also relates to methods for treating keratinous substrates such as hair and skin on the body or face with the cosmetic composition discussed herein.
  • the cosmetic compositions are useful in methods for conditioning the hair, for providing frizz control to the hair, for improving ease of combability and detangling of the hair, for protecting the hair from damage, for increasing the appearance of hair volume, etc.
  • the compositions can be applied immediately after shampooing the hair, for example, in place of a conditioner.
  • compositions can also be applied on hair immediately after shampooing and conditioning the hair, for example, as a mask rinse-off or leave-in treatment.
  • the compositions can also be applied before shampooing the hair as pre-treatment compositions.
  • the compositions are applied to wet or damp hair and massaged into the hair to ensure uniform coverage.
  • the hair may be rinsed with water, dried, and styled as desired.
  • Another unique aspect of the compositions is that they may be used as a leave-on product.
  • the compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the hair composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.
  • a method for treating keratinous substrates such as hair by applying a cosmetic composition discussed herein to the wet or damp substrate such as hair, and forming an emulsion in situ (on the hair or skin); and optionally rinsing the emulsion from the substrate such as hair.
  • the cosmetic composition in treating a keratinous substrate such as hair, may be mixed with shampoo prior to application to the hair; or layered onto the hair with a shampoo; or applied to hair after a shampoo has been rinsed from the hair; or layered onto the hair with a conditioner; or mixed with a conditioner prior to application to the hair; or applied to hair after a conditioner has been rinsed from the hair; or mixed with a leave-in hair treatment prior to application to hair; or mixed with a mask composition prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a mask composition has been applied to and optionally, rinsed from the hair.
  • FIG. 1 provides photographic images of curly hair swatches treated with an exemplary hair styling composition in accordance with aspects of the disclosure and with comparative compositions and a curly hair swatch that has not been treated with a composition (control);
  • FIG. 2 provides photographic images of curly hair swatches treated with an exemplary hair styling composition in accordance with aspects of the disclosure and with comparative compositions and a curly hair swatch that has not been treated with a composition (control);
  • FIG. 3 provides photographic images of curly hair swatches treated with exemplary hair styling compositions in accordance with aspects of the disclosure and with comparative compositions and a curly hair swatch that has not been treated with a composition (control).
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure provide a unique sensorial experience by forming an emulsion with increased viscosity during use.
  • a user combines the cosmetic composition with extraneous water (e.g ., water other than the water already included in the cosmetic composition). This results in the formation of the emulsion with increased viscosity.
  • the cosmetic compositions are typically solubilized and transparent (or translucent) prior to use when the cosmetic composition is combined with extraneous water. As the cosmetic composition becomes mixed with extraneous water, the viscosity of the composition increases, an emulsion forms, and the composition becomes opaque.
  • the cosmetic composition combines with the extraneous water in situ and forms an opaque emulsion having a higher viscosity than the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water.
  • the cosmetic compositions typically include: a) about 20 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols comprising:
  • the cosmetic composition is typically anhydrous or substantially anhydrous, is liquid and transparent, with a viscosity ranging from about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at 25 Q C, and a pH that ranges from about 1 to about 14, before being combined with extraneous water (/.e., water other than the water of component g)), and after the combination with the extraneous water, the hair care cosmetic composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, preferably ranging from about 5 mPa.s to about 10,000 mPa.s.
  • the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion can have a lamellar phase structure.
  • the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion has a viscosity that is greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water.
  • glycols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2- butanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol; polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more gylcol(s) includes or consists of propylene glycol.
  • Non-limiting examples of trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms include glycerin, trimethylolpropane, butanetriols such as 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, pentanetriol such as 1 ,2,5-pentanetriol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) includes or consists of glycerin.
  • Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols include ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl- 2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof.
  • the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.
  • the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols is from about 10:1 to about 1 :10, or from about 9:1 to about 1 :9, or from about 8:1 to about 1 :8, or from about 7:1 to about 1 :7, or from about 6:1 to about 1 :6, or from about 5:1 to about 1 :5, or from about 4:1 to about 1 :4, or from about 3:1 to about 1 :3, or from about 2:1 to about 1 :2, or from about 1.5:1 to about 1 :1.5, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols is about 1 :1 .
  • the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols is greater than 1 , such as from about 10:1 to about 1 .2:1 or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5:1 , or from about 7:1 to about 2:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3.5:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 4:1 , or from about 5.5:1 to about 4:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols is or about 5:1 .
  • Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include those chosen from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachid
  • At least one of the three or more cationic surfactants has a chloride ion and/or at least one of the two or more cationic surfactants has a sulfate ion. Additionally or alternatively, in some embodiments, at least one of the three or more cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion or a sulfate ion.
  • two of the three or more cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion and/or a sulfate ion and one of the three or more cationic surfactants is a fatty amine.
  • the three or more cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride and behentrimonium methosulfate or behentrimonium chloride.
  • the weight ratio of the three cationic surfactants in the composition of the present disclosure is from about 2.1 - 2.5:2.1 - 2.5:1 .5 - 2.0, or about 2.1 :2.5:2.0, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • the cosmetic composition includes one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof.
  • fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
  • the one or more fatty compounds are chosen from decyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the one or more fatty acids comprise myristic acid.
  • the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 , or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1 .8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2;1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids is about 2.3:1 .
  • the one or more esters may be or include one or more diesters, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of diesters include those chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more esters comprise caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • the one or more esters comprise di-C-12-13 alkyl malate.
  • the one or more esters comprise caprylic/capric triglyceride and di-Ci2-i3 alkyl malate.
  • Non-limiting examples of the one or more silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols.
  • the copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 6
  • the one or more silicones comprise one or more dimethicone copolyols chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10
  • the one or more silicones comprise PEG-12 dimehticone.
  • the composition of the instant disclosure has a pH ranging from about 1 to about 12, or about 2 to about 10, or about 2 to about 8 or about 2 to about 7 or at less than 7 such as from about 2 to about 6.8, or about 2.5 to about 6.8, or about 3 to about 6.6, or about 3.5 to about 6.6, or about 4 to about 6.5, or about 4.5 to about 6.5, or about 5 to about 6.5, or about 5.5 to about 6.5, or about 6 to about 6.5, or about 6.2 to about 6.5, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • composition of the instant disclosure is anhydrous or substantially anhydrous.
  • the instant disclosure also relates to methods for treating the hair and body with the cosmetic composition discussed herein.
  • the cosmetic compositions are useful in method for conditioning the hair, for providing frizz control to the hair, for improving ease of combability and detangling of the hair, for protecting the hair from damage, for increasing the appearance of hair volume, etc.
  • the compositions can be applied immediately after shampooing the hair, for example, in place of a conditioner.
  • the compositions can also be applied on hair immediately after shampooing and conditioning the hair, for example, as a mask rinse-off or leave-in treatment.
  • the compositions can also be applied before shampooing the hair as pre treatment compositions.
  • the compositions are applied to wet or damp hair and massaged into the hair to ensure uniform coverage.
  • compositions After application to the hair, the hair may be rinsed with water, dried, and styled as desired. Another unique aspect of the compositions is that they may be used as a leave-on product.
  • the compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the hair composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.
  • a method for treating hair by applying a cosmetic composition discussed herein to wet or damp hair and forming an emulsion in situ; and optionally rinsing the emulsion from the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition may be mixed with shampoo prior to application to the hair; or layered onto the hair with a shampoo; or applied to hair after a shampoo has been rinsed from the hair; or layered onto the hair with a conditioner; or mixed with a conditioner prior to application to the hair; or applied to hair after a conditioner has been rinsed from the hair; or mixed with a leave-in hair treatment prior to application to hair; or mixed with a mask composition prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a mask composition has been applied to and optionally, rinsed from the hair.
  • the term "transparent” refers to a cosmetic composition having a transmittance of at least 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.
  • the compositions may have, e.g., a transmittance of at least 80%, at least 90%, or at least 95% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, e.g., using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.
  • the term “opaque” refers to a cosmetic composition having a transmittance of below 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.
  • the cosmetic compositions typically combine with water to form an emulsion with at least the same or with increased viscosity.
  • the cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C using a Rheomat® viscosimeter (spindle #3) at 200 revolutions per minute (RPM) prior to combination with extraneous water.
  • the viscosity may be, for example, about 1 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C using a Rheomat® viscosimeter (spindle #3) at 200 revolutions per minute (RPM).
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is about 1 mPa.s to about 30 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s, or about 5 mPa.s to about 30 mPa.s.
  • the viscosity may be, for example, about 5 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 10 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 40 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 50 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 100 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 500 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 1 ,000 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 5,000 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 30,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 50 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 100 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, or about 500 mP
  • the cosmetic composition form an opaque emulsion upon combination with extraneous water, for example, from a user’s wet or damp hands, wet or damp hair, and/or from the faucet and the like.
  • the opaque emulsion may be formed by combining extraneous water with the cosmetic composition in an ratio (water : composition) ranging from 0.1 : 1 to 3 : 1 , preferably 0.5 : 1 or 1 : 1 or 1 .5 : 1 or 2 : 1 .
  • the opaque emulsion may be formed by combining extraneous water in an amount such that the total amount of water in the cosmetic composition increases to more than 10 wt.% or, in some instances, to about 12 wt.% or more, about 15 wt.% or more, about 20 wt.% or more, about 25 wt.% or more, or about 30 wt.% or more, relative to the amount of water in the cosmetic composition before combination with extraneous water.
  • the opaque emulsion formed from the combination of the cosmetic composition and extraneous water may occur without active mixing from a user or in conjunction with active mixing from the user.
  • the opaque emulsion is formed automatically without the need for mixing.
  • the cosmetic composition becomes sufficiently combined with extraneous water to form the opaque emulsion by simply coming into contact with extraneous water.
  • a minimal amount of mixing may be needed, and may be encouraged, to more thoroughly form the opaque emulsion. This can easily be achieved during use of the cosmetic composition, for example, by physically manipulating ( e.g ., mixing) the cosmetic composition with extraneous water using the body ⁇ e.g., with the hands).
  • the cosmetic composition combines with the extraneous water in situ and forms an opaque emulsion having a higher viscosity than the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water.
  • the cosmetic composition upon combination with extraneous water, forms an emulsion having a lamellar phase, and may even form a multi-lamellar emulsion. In some instance, upon combination with extraneous water, the cosmetic composition forms an emulsion comprising emulsified droplets, micelles, etc.
  • a “lamellar phase” refers generally to packing of polar-headed long chain nonpolar-tail molecules in an environment of bulk polar liquid (i.e., water from the hair), as sheets of bilayers separated by bulk liquid.
  • the cosmetic composition is formulated to form the opaque emulsion within 3 minutes of combination (with or without active mixing) with water, preferably in 2 minutes or less, preferably in 1 minute or less, preferably in 45 seconds or less, preferably in 30 seconds or less, preferably in 20 seconds or less, preferably in 10 seconds or, or preferably in 5 seconds or less.
  • Suitable components may be included or excluded from the formulations for the hair cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions, and/or the use of the formulation (e.g., a lotion, gel, cream, spray, etc.).
  • polyol should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups.
  • the one or more polyols is/are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols.
  • the one or more polyols may be liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • the one or more polyols may have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • the polyols of the cosmetic compositions include one or more glycols, and one or more trihydric alcohols.
  • Suitable examples of the one or more glycols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2- butanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, and mixtures thereof.
  • butanediols such as 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, hexanediols such as 2- ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, pentanediols such as 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, octanediols such as caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable examples of the one or more trihydric alcohols include glycerin, trimethylolpropane, butanetriols such as 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4- butanetriol, pentanetriol such as 1 ,2,5-pentanetriol, heptanetriol such as 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total amount of the one or more polyol(s) in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 20 to about 50 wt.%.
  • the total amount of polyol(s) in the cosmetic composition may be about 20 to about 50 wt.%, about 20 to about 48 wt.%, about 20 to about 45 wt.%, about 20 to about 42 wt.%, about 20 to about 40 wt.%, about 20 to about 38 wt.%, about 20 to about 35 wt.%, about 20 to about 32 wt.%, about 20 to about 30 wt.%, about 20 to about 28 wt.%, or about 20 to about 25 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of the one or more glycols in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 10 to about 49 wt.%.
  • the total amount of glycol(s) in the cosmetic composition may be about 10 to about 49 wt%, or from about 15 to about 45 wt.%, or from about 15 to about 40 wt.%, or from about 20 to about 35 wt.%, from about 22 to about 30 wt.%, or from about 24 to about 28 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 1 to about 10 wt.%.
  • the total amount of trihydric alcohol(s) are present in an amount of from about 1 to about 10 wt.%, or from about 2 to about 9 wt.%, or from about 2 to about 8 wt.%, or from about 3 to about 7 wt.%, or from about 3 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 4 to about 6 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) are present in the cosmetic composition in amount of about 1 , 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, and 10, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions include one or more monoalcohols, such as those having from 2 to 6 carbon atom.
  • the amount of monoalcohols present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 5 to about 50 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may have monoalcohol(s) in an amount of about 5 to about 50 wt.%, about 5 to about 45 wt.%, about 5 to about 40 wt.%, about 5 to about 35 wt.%, about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 25 wt.%; about 10 to about 50 wt.%, about 10 to about 45 wt.%, about 10 to about 40 wt.%, about 10 to about 35 wt.%, about 10 to about 30 wt.%, about 10 to about 25 wt.%; about 15 to about 50 wt.%, about 15 to about 45 wt.%, about 15 to about 40 wt.%, about 15 to about 35 wt.%, about 15 to about 30 wt.%, or about 15 to about 25 wt.% including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the one or more monoalcohols of the cosmetic composition may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof.
  • the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated to have an amount of polyol(s) to an amount of monoalcohol(s) in a ratio (i.e. total polyols : total monoalcohols) of 10:1 to 1 :10, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is greater than the total amount of monoalcohol(s).
  • the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is less than the total amount of monoalcohol(s).
  • the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is equal to the total amount of monoalcohol(s).
  • the cosmetic composition includes three or more cationic surfactant(s) comprising at least one fatty amine, typically in an amount ranging from about 5.5 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of cationic surfactants present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 5.5 to about 9 wt.%, about 5.5 to about 8.5 wt.%; about 5.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 5.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, or about 6 to about 7 wt.%, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated such that the three or more cationic surfactants are associated with the same or different balancing anionic ions.
  • at least one of the three or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a chloride ion and/or at least one of the three or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a sulfate ion.
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated such that two of the three or more cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion, or one of the at least three or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a chloride ion and one of the at least three or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a sulfate ion.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • Suitable examples of the cationic surfactants chosen from quaternary ammonium salts are cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, and tricetylmonium chloride.
  • cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stea
  • quaternary ammonium salts those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
  • tetraalkylammonium salts for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atom
  • the cationic surfactants may be chosen from the quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure according to the general formula provided below: in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30
  • R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Ri4 preferably denotes a methyl group
  • R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt examples include those having a structure in accordance with the following general formula: in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Rie, R19,
  • R2o and R21 which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
  • the at least one fatty amine are chosen from cationic/cationizable surfactants. Suitable examples of the at least one fatty amines are oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, and arachidamidoethyidimethylamine.
  • the at least one fatty amine may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain.
  • quaternary ammonium salts which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those corresponding to the following general formula: in which the groups Rs to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • cationic/cationizable surfactants which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the general formula provided below:
  • R4-A-R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from: and B is selected from: wherein Fte and Rz are the same or different and are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms,
  • Re and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
  • R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, R6 to Rio are same as above.
  • Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidoprop
  • Cationizable surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines, preferably, fatty dialkylamines.
  • Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl and palmitamid
  • Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines.
  • the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid.
  • Non limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • two of the three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine are chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and behentrimonium chloride and the at least one fatty amine is chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, and arachidamidoethyidimethylamine,
  • the three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine comprise cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • a “fatty compound” is generally an organic compound that is not soluble in water at normal temperature (25°C.) and at atmospheric pressure (750 mmHg) (solubility below 10%). In some instances, the solubility in water may be below 5%, below 1%, or below 0.1%). Moreover, fatty compounds are generally soluble in one or more organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty compounds comprising:
  • the total amount of fatty compounds comprising fatty alcohols and fatty acids range from about 4 to about 18 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of fatty compounds present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 4 to about 18 wt.%, about 4 to about 17 wt.%, about 5 to about 18 wt.%, about 5 to about 17 wt.%; about 6 to about 18 wt.%, or about 6 to about 17 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of fatty alcohols present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 2 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may have fatty alcohol(s) in an amount of about 2 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 to about 9 wt.%, about 2.5 to about 8.5 wt.%, about 3 to about 8 wt.%, about 3.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 4 to about 7.5 wt.%; about 4.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 5 to about 7 wt.%, about 4 to about 10 wt.%, about 4.5 to about 9.5 wt.%, about 5 to about 9 wt.%, about 5.5 to about 8.5wt.%; or about 6 to about 8 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of fatty acids present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may have fatty acids in an amount of about 0.5 to about 9 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 7 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 6.5 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 6.0 wt.%; about 1 .5 to about 5 wt.%, about 2 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 2 to about 4 wt.%, about 2.5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 2.5 to about 3.5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) in the cosmetic composition is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 , or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1 .8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) in the cosmetic composition is at about 10:1 , 9:1 , 8:1 , 7:1 , 6;1 , 5:1 , 4;1 , 4.5:1 , 4.2:1 , 4:1 , 3.8:1 , 3.5:1 , 3.2:1 , 3:1 , 2.8:1 , 2.5:1 , or about 2.3:1.
  • the one or more fatty alcohols may be chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more fatty acids may be chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. More generally, the fatty alcohols may be liquid at 25°C., 1 atm, or may even be solid, or may be mixtures of liquid and solid fatty alcohols. They may even be glycerolated and/or oxyalkylenated, and may include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohols may be chosen from those having from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cholesterol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols are those selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
  • Saturated liquid fatty alcohols may be branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, but are preferably acyclic.
  • Non-limiting examples of liquid saturated fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and 2-hexyldecanol.
  • Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols may include in their structure at least one double or triple bond and, in some instances, one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or non-conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic or non aromatic ring but they are preferably acyclic. Among liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol can be cited.
  • Solid fatty alcohols include linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • Non-limiting examples of high melting point fatty compounds include fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 38°C), cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56°C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59°C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71 °C), and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 38°C), cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56°C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59°C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71 °C), and mixtures thereof.
  • These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkyl chain is cet
  • esters in the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are typically ester oils chosen from one or more diester, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of liquid esters include fatty esters from a C6-C32 fatty acid and/or a C6-C32 fatty alcohol, and are liquid at 25°C., 1 atm. These esters may be liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C25 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In some cases, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Cetyl Esters is a mixture of the following esters of saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols: cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, and stearyl stearate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
  • Non-limiting liquid esters (ester oils) or liquid fatty esters that may be mentioned include, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil.
  • sunflower oil sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil
  • the esters of the present disclosure may also further comprise solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters including solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C25 fatty alcohols.
  • solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters including solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C25 fatty alcohols.
  • esters mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myr
  • the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more diesters, in particular, diester oils, chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof.
  • diester oils chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diiso
  • the one or more triglycerides may be chosen from natural triglycerides (e.g., having a plant origin) or synthetic triglycerides.
  • the triglycerides may have 6 to 30 carbon atoms — such as, for instance, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the triglycerides may be chosen from caprylic/capric/isostearic/adipictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/linoleictriglycerides, caprylic/caprictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/stearictriglycerides, glyceryltrilaurate/stearate, glyceryldi/tripalmitostearate, glyceryldi/tritristearate, caprylictriglyceride, caprylic/capric/laurictriglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more diesters are typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of diesters present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 0.05 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2.5 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, or about 0.5 to about 1 .5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of diesters present in the cosmetic composition is at about 0.05. 0.1 , 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.75, 1 , 1 .25,
  • the one or more triglycerides are typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of triglycerides present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 13 wt.%, about 1 to about 13 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 12 wt.%, about 2 to about 12 wt.%; about 3 to about 12 wt.%, about 4 to about
  • the amount of triglycerides present in the cosmetic composition is at about 1 , 1 ,5, 2, 2,5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8,
  • the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more triglycerides comprising caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more diesters, in particular, diester oils, and one or more triglycerides.
  • the one or more diesters include di- C12-
  • the one or more triglycerides include caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • Non-Silicone Fatty compounds other than Faty alcohoKs and Fatty acid(s)
  • the cosmetic compositions may include non-silicone fatty compounds other than the fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) described above.
  • the amount of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) that may be present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 1 to about 40 wt.%, about 1 to about 35 wt.%, about 1 to about 30 wt.%, about 1 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%; about 2 to about 40 wt.%, about 2 to about 35 wt.%, about 2 to about 30 wt.%, about 2 to about 25 wt.%, about 2 to about 20 wt.%, about 2 to about 15 wt.%, about 2 to about 10 wt.%, or about 2 to about 5 wt.%, including all range
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) are mineral oil (paraffins and petroleum ether), fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (such as polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol esters of fatty acids or esters of neopentyl glycol and fatty acids or polyglycerol/glycerol esters of fatty acids or glycol diesters or diesters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids or esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, esters of short chain alcohols and fatty acids), waxes, lanolin, and a mixture thereof.
  • mineral oil paraffins and petroleum ether
  • fatty alcohol derivatives such as polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol esters of fatty acids or esters of neopentyl glycol and fatty acids or polyglycerol/g
  • Additional and/or alternative fatty alcohol derivatives include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and a mixture thereof.
  • fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcochol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol,
  • Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbons include linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C16 alkanes; hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.
  • the linear or branched hydrocarbons may be composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms of mineral, plant, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and squalane.
  • the other fatty compounds may be chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, and from non-liquid fatty ethers such as dicetyl ether and distearyl ether.
  • Non-limiting examples of waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides.
  • Non-limiting examples of ceramides include N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmityldihydrosphingosine, N-stearyldihydrosphingosine or N- behenyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the non-silicone fatty compounds other than the fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) may be chosen from fatty acid derivatives including, but not limited to, ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyce
  • the cosmetic composition includes one or more silicone(s) typically in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of silicone(s) present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4.5 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 1 to about 4.5 wt.%; or about 1 .5 to about 4.5 wt.%, or about 1 .5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 1 .5 to about 3 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of silicone(s) present in the cosmetic composition is at about 0.5, 0.75, 1 , 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.25, 4.5, 4.75, 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition
  • silicones include amine-functionalized silicones (e.g ., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, etc.
  • the cosmetic composition may include, in some instances, one or more silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols),
  • the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols.
  • the copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicon
  • the silicone(s) may, optionally, include or be chosen from a siloxane with a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy
  • the silicones optionally, include or are chosen from siloxanes having an organo functional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is different than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organofunctional radical such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone,
  • the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones.
  • the compositions include less than about 3 wt.%, 2 wt.%, 1 wt.%, 0.5 wt.%, 0.4 wt.% 0.3 wt.% 0.2 wt.%, or 0.1 wt.% of silicones (e.g., no silicones).
  • the cosmetic composition typically includes 10 wt.% or less of water.
  • the amount of water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is typically 10 wt.%, 10 wt.% or less, 9 wt.% or less, 8 wt.% or less, 7 wt.% or less, 6 wt.% or less, 5 wt.% or less, 4 wt.% or less, 3 wt.% or less, 2 wt.% or less, 1 wt.% or less, or 0.5 wt.% or less, based on the total was of the cosmetic composition.
  • the water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is added to the composition (“added water”).
  • the water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is not “added water,” i.e. , it is present in the cosmetic composition as part of a raw material that is included in the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may include water prior to the combination of extraneous water, in some embodiments the cosmetic composition is anhydrous or substantially anhydrous. pH Adiuster(s)
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition.
  • one or more acids may be included to decrease the pH of the cosmetic composition.
  • suitable acids for decreasing the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to increase the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases that are suitable for adjusting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art.
  • the cosmetic composition may, desirably, have a pH ranging from about
  • the cosmetic composition may have a pH of less than 7.
  • the cosmetic composition may have a pH of from about 2 to about 6.8, or about 2.5 to about 6.8, or about 3 to about 6.6, or about 3.5 to about 6.6, or about 4 to about 6.5, or about 4.5 to about 6.5, or about 5 to about 6.5, or about 5.5 to about 6.5, or about 6 to about 6.5, or about 6.2 to about 6.5, including ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
  • the cosmetic composition has a pH of from about 5 to about 6.5, preferably, about 5.5 to about 6.5, more preferably, about 6 to about 6.5, and even more preferably, about 6.2 to about 6.5, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • the amount of the pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and/or product.
  • the total amount of the pH adjuster may range from about 0.05 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of pH adjuster is from about 0.05 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or about 0.12 to about 5 wt.%, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure may be incorporated into a kit.
  • the kits may include at least one cosmetic composition according to the instant disclosure and one or more additional compositions, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, etc.
  • kits include one or more cosmetic compositions according the instant disclosure, a shampoo, a conditioner a mask, and/or other hair treatment product, all of which are separately contained.
  • Instructions, mixing components, brushes, gloves, measuring tools, etc., may also optionally be included in the kits.
  • compositions may be packaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, a ready-to-use container.
  • useful packaging include tubes, jars, caps, unit dose packages, and bottles, including squeezable tubes, bottles, and sprayable containers.
  • the packaging may be configured so that it can be attached to a wall, such as a wall in a bathroom, including walls of a shower or tub.
  • the packaging can be a container that is configured to attach to a wall, such that when pressure is applied to the container, the composition contained therein is expelled from one or more openings in the container.
  • the packaging is a tube, such as a tube with two compartments, or dual tubes, each forming a separate compartment. Each compartment may include a different composition.
  • one tube or compartment may include a cosmetic composition according to the instant disclosure
  • the other tube may include a composition to be used with the cosmetic composition, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, an all-in-one shampoo/conditioner (i.e., a conditioning shampoo; also referred to as a “co-wash”) mask or other hair treatment products.
  • a cosmetic composition for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, an all-in-one shampoo/conditioner (i.e., a conditioning shampoo; also referred to as a “co-wash”) mask or other hair treatment products.
  • Methods of treating hair according to the disclosure may vary but typically include applying a cosmetic composition as disclosed herein, allowing the cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for a sufficient amount of time, and rinsing the cosmetic compositions from the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair in a sequence with other compositions.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair before shampooing the hair, after shampooing the hair, before conditioning the hair, and/or after conditioning the hair, etc.
  • the compositions are not required to be used in a sequence.
  • the methods may include applying an amount of the cosmetic composition onto the body, for example, onto one or both hands, onto the hair, onto the face, etc.
  • the body may already be wet or damp with extraneous water or extraneous water can be included after the cosmetic composition has already been applied to the body.
  • the cosmetic composition and the extraneous water may optionally be mixed together on the body to facilitate formation of an opaque emulsion having an increased viscosity.
  • the cosmetic composition and extraneous water may be combined, and optionally mixed, prior to application to the body.
  • the cosmetic composition may be combined in a container, bowl, packaging, bottle, etc., and subsequently applied to the body after formation of the opaque emulsion.
  • the methods include forming the opaque emulsion on the hands and subsequently applying the opaque emulsion to the hair. In other instances, the methods include forming an opaque emulsion directly on the hair. In yet other instance, the methods include forming an opaque emulsion other the face, or other parts of the body.
  • the cosmetic compositions and the emulsions formed by combination with water are useful for conditioning and/or managing the hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions and the emulsions formed by combination of water can be applied to the wet or damp hair and may be massaged into the hair, for example, with the hands, and/or spread throughout the hair with a comb or brush. This results in a smoothing and softening of the hair, which reduces frizz, dryness, and unwanted volume.
  • the cosmetic compositions may be used as a leave-on product.
  • the cosmetic compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the cosmetic composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions are used in conjunction with additional hair-treatment compositions in a routine, for example, during an individual’s normal showering/bathing routine.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair individually or may be combined with one or more additional compositions.
  • Combining the compositions with one or more additional compositions e.g ., a shampoo, a conditioner, a rinse, etc.
  • the cosmetic composition may be mixed with a shampoo (or conditioner) prior to application to the hair.
  • the mixture of the shampoo (or conditioner) and the cosmetic composition are simultaneously applied to the hair during the cleansing or conditioning process and simultaneously rinsed from the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition may be layered on top of (or lathered into) hair to which a shampoo (or conditioner) has already been applied or vice versa.
  • the composition may be applied to the hair and without rinsing it from the hair, a shampoo (or conditioner) is then subsequently applied to the hair.
  • the shampoo (or conditioner) may be first applied to the hair and without rinsing the shampoo (or conditioner) from the hair, the cosmetic composition is also applied to the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition When used in conjunction with a shampoo and/or a conditioner, the cosmetic composition may be mixed or used with the shampoo and/or conditioner in a ratio of about 1 :10 to about 10:1 , about 1 :5 to about 5:1 , about 1 :3 to about 3:1 , about 1 :2 to about 2:1 , about 1 :1 to about 4:1 , about 1 :1 to about 3:1 , or about 1 :1 to about 2:1 (cosmetic composition of the instant disclosure : shampoo/conditioner, etc.).
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure may be allowed to remain on the hair for a minimum amount of time before being rinsed from the hair, but it is not necessary to allow the cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for an extended period of time.
  • the cosmetic compositions can be applied and allowed to remain on the hair for a period of time that is typical for regular shampooing and/or conditioning.
  • the cosmetic composition (whether combined with another hair-treatment composition such as a shampoo or conditioner) may be applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair for a few seconds (1 , 2, 3, or 5 seconds) up to about 1 , about 2, about 5, about 10, about 15, about 20, about 25, or about 30 minutes.
  • the cosmetic composition When the cosmetic composition is not being mixed with another composition prior to application to the hair, the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair immediately after or before the hair is treated with another composition (e.g., a shampoo and/or a conditioner).
  • another composition e.g., a shampoo and/or a conditioner
  • the hair-treatment compositions may be applied to the hair within about a few seconds or 1 , 2, 5, 10, or 20 minutes before or after a shampoo and/or a conditioner is applied to the hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are unique in their ability to provide hair with improved manageability, shape/style, long-lasting style and frizz control, curl definition, curl retention, and smoothness. Accordingly, the instant disclosure relates to methods for treating hair, for example, for improving the manageability of hair, for imparting lasting style and frizz control, and for imparting smoothness. More specifically, the cosmetic compositions may be used in methods for conditioning the hair, providing curl definition to the hair, providing frizz control to the hair, improving ease of combability and detangling, and providing smoothness.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of about 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the cosmetic composition forms an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, wherein the cosmetic composition includes:
  • glycols chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2-butanediol, 1 ,3- butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol; polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, and mixtures thereof; and
  • one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and chosen from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,2,5- pentanetriol, and mixtures thereof;
  • cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imi
  • fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and
  • fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 8:1 to about 1 .5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1 .8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2:1 ;
  • esters chosen from:
  • composition is a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of about 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the composition interacts with the extraneous water to form an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than the viscosity of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water; and wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the solubilized, transparent composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of about 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the cosmetic composition forms an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, wherein the cosmetic composition includes:
  • weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols is from about 3:1 to about 1 :3, or from about 2:1 to about 1 :2, or from about 1 .5:1 to about 1 :1 .5;
  • total glycols : total trihydric alcohols is from about 6:1 to about 3:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3.5:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 4:1 , or from about 5.5:1 to about 4:1 ;
  • cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine, including but not limited to stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and behentrimonium methosulfate;
  • fatty alcohols chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof, such as, e.g., one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof, and/or one or more fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic
  • fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and
  • fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 8:1 to about 1.5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1.8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2:1 ;
  • esters comprising:
  • diesters chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof; and
  • triglycerides chosen from caprylic/capric/isostearic/adipictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/linoleictriglycerides, caprylic/caprictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/stearictriglycerides, glyceryltrilaurate/stearate, glyceryldi/tripalmitostearate, glyceryldi/tritristearate, caprylictriglyceride, caprylic/capric/laurictriglycerides, and mixtures thereof;
  • a method for applying a cosmetic composition including: applying a cosmetic composition as described herein to wet or damp hair; optionally, mixing the cosmetic composition with a shampoo and/or layering the cosmetic composition onto hair with a shampoo; optionally, mixing the cosmetic composition with a conditioner and/or layering the cosmetic composition onto hair with a conditioner; forming an emulsion in situ; and optionally, rinsing the emulsion/cosmetic composition from the hair.
  • Example 1 Composition
  • Process of Making
  • compositions of the invention can be prepared by the process below according to the steps:
  • a lower crystallization point was more desirable because it indicates a broader temperature range in which compositions can remain clear/transparent or free of visibly detectable crystallization.
  • test products Inventive Formula A and Comparative Formula X
  • test products were applied on hair swatches of Caucasian type III (with some curls - between wavy and curly hair).
  • Four panelists’ assessments of the hair swatches after the treatment are summarized below:
  • test products Inventive Formula A and Comparative Formulas X and Y
  • inventive formula A was a lighter treatment and at the same time, imparted more smoothness and lightness during application.
  • test products Inventive Composition A and Comparative Compositions Y and Z, were tested in a pump spray format by 30 human volunteers (by cell) on their hair.
  • the products are either applied by hand onto the hair or sprayed directly onto the hair.
  • Composition A required lower amount of product a. Usually used 3 to 4g of Composition A b. Usually used 5 to 10g of Composition Y
  • Composition A was found to: a. be easier to apply and spread; b. provide more instantaneous results on the hair, regarding easiness to detangle and smoothness. c. provide the following results on hair: smooth, shiny, hydrated, healthy, strong, frizz control, immediate results; d. provide texture: creamier and smoother texture (after transformation); e. provide a greater perception of deep hydration; f. provide a texture transformation from liquid to cream or emulsion, thus contributing to a better consumer experience.
  • composition A made the hair oily and heavy, overall, the volunteers did not favor the liquid and water-like texture of Composition Y.
  • Composition A Requires Lower amount of product a. Usually used 2.5g to 3.75g of Composition A b. Usually more than 5g of Composition Z
  • Composition A was found to: a. be easier to apply and spread; b. provide the following results on hair: smooth, shiny, hydrated, healthy, strong, frizz control, immediate results; c. provide texture: creamier texture (after transformation); d. provide a texture transformation from liquid to cream or emulsion, thus contributing to a better consumer experience
  • composition A took longer to rinse out and made the hair oil/heavy
  • Composition Z was found to be harder to spread on the hair because it was “too liquid” or thin in consistency.
  • the term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component.
  • a mixture thereof also relates to “mixtures thereof.”
  • A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • the term, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
  • treat refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as skin, in particular, the skin of the head, face, and neck.
  • compositions/methods/kits may be free or essentially free of the component.
  • substantially anhydrous means that there is less than about 10% by weight of water in the composition, based on the total weight of the composition. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 9 wt.%, less than about 8 wt.%, less than about 7 wt.%, less than about 6 wt.%, less than about 5 wt.%, less than about 4 wt.%, less than about 3 wt.%, less than about 2 wt.%, less than about 1 wt.%, or none of water.

Abstract

Cosmetic compositions are disclosed that include one or more polyols; one or more monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, three or more cationic surfactants; one or more fatty alcohols, one or more fatty acids; one or more esters; one or more silicones; and 10 wt.% or less of water. The cosmetic compositions are solubilized and transparent until combined with extraneous water. Upon combination with extraneous water, the cosmetic compositions form an emulsion with a viscosity that is the same or greater than the viscosity prior to the combination with the extraneous water. Also described are methods for conditioning, managing, and/or styling the hair.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CAPABLE OF FORMING AN EMULSION
Field of the Disclosure
The instant disclosure is related to cosmetic compositions capable of forming an emulsion, and particularly those forming an emulsion in situ upon combination with extraneous water. The instant disclosure also relates to methods for using the cosmetic compositions.
Background of the Disclosure
Consumers desire new and improved compositions for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning keratinous substances, such as skin or hair. Hair and skin are exposed to intrinsic and extrinsic influences such as environmental factors, mechanical factors, chemical factors, heat, and aging.
For example, the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by heat, mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing, blow-drying, flat ironing, or even repeated washing can damage and weaken hair fibers. Over time, hair may become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends, resulting in split ends.
Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to haircare products using compositions intended to condition the hair, giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties. For example, hair care compositions, such as hair conditioner and/or treatment compositions, may be used before or after the hair has been washed with shampoo and/or subjected to a chemical treatment in order to improve or return to the hair its natural luster, shine, and softness, or to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of hair.
It is understood that different forms of haircare and skin care compositions can provide different benefits.
Haircare compositions, intended to be applied regularly to the hair, may be, for example, hair shampoos, conditioners, or masks. Often, consumers seek to use other products that can provide improved cosmetic benefits, such as sera, gels, hair lotions or care creams. It is in particular known practice to use compositions in the form of oily sera, containing combinations of silicone oils or non-silicone oils. The popularity and usage of oils for dry hair treatments has increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. However, it is still a challenge to manufacturers to formulate such products to be longer lasting (e.g., at least 8 hours) and which are less time consuming and labor intensive to use. Also, the problems caused by such products of oil build-up on the hair and/or excessive greasiness of the hair and/or weighing down the hair/heaviness, and/or being able to provide sufficient conditioning benefits such as smoothness, shaping, and/or moisture effect still have to be addressed.
Additionally, the presence of silicones in a composition may present difficulties in preparing the compositions in various formulations.
Finally, the viscosity of these compositions is not always optimal, and does not make it possible to package them in a pump dispenser bottle.
A variety of approaches have been developed to condition the hair or skin. A common method of providing conditioning benefit is through the use of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents are known to provide various conditioning benefits.
However, there is still a need for developing new and improved formulations and methods of treating keratinous substrates, in particular hair, for providing, for example, improved hair manageability, improved hair alignment, reduced unwanted volume (especially reduced frizz), and increased shine.
Summary of the Disclosure
The instant disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that provide a unique sensorial and consumer experience by forming an emulsion with increased viscosity upon the addition (e.g., combination) of extraneous water and, in particular, forming an emulsion with increased viscosity in situ on wet hand(s), wet skin, wet hair, etc. The cosmetic compositions are typically translucent or transparent prior to combination with extraneous water and are opaque or substantially opaque after combination with extraneous water. In addition to the unique functional properties of the cosmetic compositions during use, in particular, in treatment of hair with the cosmetic compositions results in improved manageability, long-lasting style and frizz control, and smoothness.
The cosmetic compositions typically include: a) about 20 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols comprising:
(i) one or more glycols; and
(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; b) about 5 to about 50 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :10; and where the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is greater than 1 ; c) about 5.5 to about 10 wt.% of three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine; d) about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:
(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and
(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 ; e) about 1 to about 20 wt.% of one or more esters; f) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% of one or more silicones; and g) 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition is typically anhydrous or substantially anhydrous, is liquid and transparent, with a viscosity ranging from about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at 25 QC, and a pH that ranges from about 1 to about 14, before being combined with extraneous water (/.e., water other than the water of component g)), and after the combination with the extraneous water, the hair care cosmetic composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, preferably ranging from about 5 mPa.s to about 10,000 mPa.s.
In an embodiment, the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion can have a lamellar phase structure.
In an embodiment, the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion has a viscosity that is greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water. The instant disclosure also relates to methods for treating keratinous substrates such as hair and skin on the body or face with the cosmetic composition discussed herein. For example, the cosmetic compositions are useful in methods for conditioning the hair, for providing frizz control to the hair, for improving ease of combability and detangling of the hair, for protecting the hair from damage, for increasing the appearance of hair volume, etc. The compositions can be applied immediately after shampooing the hair, for example, in place of a conditioner. The compositions can also be applied on hair immediately after shampooing and conditioning the hair, for example, as a mask rinse-off or leave-in treatment. The compositions can also be applied before shampooing the hair as pre-treatment compositions. Moreover, the compositions are applied to wet or damp hair and massaged into the hair to ensure uniform coverage. After application to the hair, the hair may be rinsed with water, dried, and styled as desired. Another unique aspect of the compositions is that they may be used as a leave-on product. The compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the hair composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.
According to one aspect, a method is provided for treating keratinous substrates such as hair by applying a cosmetic composition discussed herein to the wet or damp substrate such as hair, and forming an emulsion in situ (on the hair or skin); and optionally rinsing the emulsion from the substrate such as hair.
Alternatively or additionally, in treating a keratinous substrate such as hair, the cosmetic composition may be mixed with shampoo prior to application to the hair; or layered onto the hair with a shampoo; or applied to hair after a shampoo has been rinsed from the hair; or layered onto the hair with a conditioner; or mixed with a conditioner prior to application to the hair; or applied to hair after a conditioner has been rinsed from the hair; or mixed with a leave-in hair treatment prior to application to hair; or mixed with a mask composition prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a mask composition has been applied to and optionally, rinsed from the hair.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING Implementation of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, wherein:
FIG. 1 provides photographic images of curly hair swatches treated with an exemplary hair styling composition in accordance with aspects of the disclosure and with comparative compositions and a curly hair swatch that has not been treated with a composition (control);
FIG. 2 provides photographic images of curly hair swatches treated with an exemplary hair styling composition in accordance with aspects of the disclosure and with comparative compositions and a curly hair swatch that has not been treated with a composition (control);
FIG. 3 provides photographic images of curly hair swatches treated with exemplary hair styling compositions in accordance with aspects of the disclosure and with comparative compositions and a curly hair swatch that has not been treated with a composition (control).
It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the drawings.
Detailed Description of the Disclosure
The cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure provide a unique sensorial experience by forming an emulsion with increased viscosity during use. During use, a user combines the cosmetic composition with extraneous water ( e.g ., water other than the water already included in the cosmetic composition). This results in the formation of the emulsion with increased viscosity. The cosmetic compositions are typically solubilized and transparent (or translucent) prior to use when the cosmetic composition is combined with extraneous water. As the cosmetic composition becomes mixed with extraneous water, the viscosity of the composition increases, an emulsion forms, and the composition becomes opaque. This can occur, for example, when a consumer applies the cosmetic composition to a wet or damp part of the body {e.g., hands, face, skin, hair, etc.). The user may then physically manipulate the applied cosmetic composition (for example, by rubbing the hands together or rubbing the composition against another part of the body such as the face, hair, etc.). The cosmetic composition combines with the extraneous water in situ and forms an opaque emulsion having a higher viscosity than the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water.
The cosmetic compositions typically include: a) about 20 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols comprising:
(i) one or more glycols; and
(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; b) about 5 to about 50 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :10; and where the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is greater than 1 ; c) about 5.5 to about 10 wt.% of three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine; d) about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:
(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and
(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 ; e) about 1 to about 20 wt.% of one or more esters; f) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% of one or more silicones; and g) 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition is typically anhydrous or substantially anhydrous, is liquid and transparent, with a viscosity ranging from about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at 25 QC, and a pH that ranges from about 1 to about 14, before being combined with extraneous water (/.e., water other than the water of component g)), and after the combination with the extraneous water, the hair care cosmetic composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, preferably ranging from about 5 mPa.s to about 10,000 mPa.s.
In an embodiment, the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion can have a lamellar phase structure.
In an embodiment, the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion has a viscosity that is greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water. Non-limiting examples of glycols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2- butanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol; polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the one or more gylcol(s) includes or consists of propylene glycol.
Non-limiting examples of trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms include glycerin, trimethylolpropane, butanetriols such as 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, pentanetriol such as 1 ,2,5-pentanetriol, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) includes or consists of glycerin.
Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols include ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl- 2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof. In an embodiment, the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.
In some embodiments, the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :10, or from about 9:1 to about 1 :9, or from about 8:1 to about 1 :8, or from about 7:1 to about 1 :7, or from about 6:1 to about 1 :6, or from about 5:1 to about 1 :5, or from about 4:1 to about 1 :4, or from about 3:1 to about 1 :3, or from about 2:1 to about 1 :2, or from about 1.5:1 to about 1 :1.5, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. In an embodiment, the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is about 1 :1 .
In some embodiments, the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is greater than 1 , such as from about 10:1 to about 1 .2:1 or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5:1 , or from about 7:1 to about 2:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3.5:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 4:1 , or from about 5.5:1 to about 4:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. In an embodiment, the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is or about 5:1 .
Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include those chosen from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, at least one of the three or more cationic surfactants has a chloride ion and/or at least one of the two or more cationic surfactants has a sulfate ion. Additionally or alternatively, in some embodiments, at least one of the three or more cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion or a sulfate ion.
In some embodiments, two of the three or more cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion and/or a sulfate ion and one of the three or more cationic surfactants is a fatty amine. In at least one embodiment, the three or more cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride and behentrimonium methosulfate or behentrimonium chloride.
In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the three cationic surfactants in the composition of the present disclosure (first quaternary ammonium salt:second quaternary ammonium salt: fatty amine) is from about 2.1 - 2.5:2.1 - 2.5:1 .5 - 2.0, or about 2.1 :2.5:2.0, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
As already noted, the cosmetic composition includes one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
In some embodiments, the one or more fatty compounds are chosen from decyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof.
In an embodiment, the one or more fatty acids comprise myristic acid. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 , or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1 .8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2;1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. In an embodiment, the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is about 2.3:1 .
The one or more esters may be or include one or more diesters, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of diesters include those chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the one or more esters comprise caprylic/capric triglyceride.
In an embodiment, the one or more esters comprise di-C-12-13 alkyl malate.
In an embodiment, the one or more esters comprise caprylic/capric triglyceride and di-Ci2-i3 alkyl malate.
Non-limiting examples of the one or more silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof. For example, in some instances, the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols. The copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6
Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone, and a mixture thereof.
In an embodiment, the one or more silicones comprise one or more dimethicone copolyols chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10
Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18
Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24
Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 27/27 Dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the one or more silicones comprise PEG-12 dimehticone.
In an embodiment, the composition of the instant disclosure has a pH ranging from about 1 to about 12, or about 2 to about 10, or about 2 to about 8 or about 2 to about 7 or at less than 7 such as from about 2 to about 6.8, or about 2.5 to about 6.8, or about 3 to about 6.6, or about 3.5 to about 6.6, or about 4 to about 6.5, or about 4.5 to about 6.5, or about 5 to about 6.5, or about 5.5 to about 6.5, or about 6 to about 6.5, or about 6.2 to about 6.5, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
In an embodiment, the composition of the instant disclosure is anhydrous or substantially anhydrous.
The instant disclosure also relates to methods for treating the hair and body with the cosmetic composition discussed herein. For example, the cosmetic compositions are useful in method for conditioning the hair, for providing frizz control to the hair, for improving ease of combability and detangling of the hair, for protecting the hair from damage, for increasing the appearance of hair volume, etc. The compositions can be applied immediately after shampooing the hair, for example, in place of a conditioner. The compositions can also be applied on hair immediately after shampooing and conditioning the hair, for example, as a mask rinse-off or leave-in treatment. The compositions can also be applied before shampooing the hair as pre treatment compositions. Moreover, the compositions are applied to wet or damp hair and massaged into the hair to ensure uniform coverage. After application to the hair, the hair may be rinsed with water, dried, and styled as desired. Another unique aspect of the compositions is that they may be used as a leave-on product. The compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the hair composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.
According to one aspect, a method is provided for treating hair by applying a cosmetic composition discussed herein to wet or damp hair and forming an emulsion in situ; and optionally rinsing the emulsion from the hair. Alternatively or additionally, the cosmetic composition may be mixed with shampoo prior to application to the hair; or layered onto the hair with a shampoo; or applied to hair after a shampoo has been rinsed from the hair; or layered onto the hair with a conditioner; or mixed with a conditioner prior to application to the hair; or applied to hair after a conditioner has been rinsed from the hair; or mixed with a leave-in hair treatment prior to application to hair; or mixed with a mask composition prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a mask composition has been applied to and optionally, rinsed from the hair.
As used herein, the term "transparent” refers to a cosmetic composition having a transmittance of at least 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. The compositions may have, e.g., a transmittance of at least 80%, at least 90%, or at least 95% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, e.g., using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. As used herein, the term "opaque” refers to a cosmetic composition having a transmittance of below 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.
The cosmetic compositions typically combine with water to form an emulsion with at least the same or with increased viscosity. For example, the cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C using a Rheomat® viscosimeter (spindle #3) at 200 revolutions per minute (RPM) prior to combination with extraneous water. After combination with extraneous water, the viscosity may be, for example, about 1 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C using a Rheomat® viscosimeter (spindle #3) at 200 revolutions per minute (RPM). In some instances, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is about 1 mPa.s to about 30 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s, or about 5 mPa.s to about 30 mPa.s. After combination with extraneous water, the viscosity may be, for example, about 5 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 10 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 40 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 50 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 100 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 500 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 1 ,000 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 5,000 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 30,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 50 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 100 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, or about 500 mPa.s to about 20,000 mPa.s, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
The cosmetic composition form an opaque emulsion upon combination with extraneous water, for example, from a user’s wet or damp hands, wet or damp hair, and/or from the faucet and the like. The opaque emulsion may be formed by combining extraneous water with the cosmetic composition in an ratio (water : composition) ranging from 0.1 : 1 to 3 : 1 , preferably 0.5 : 1 or 1 : 1 or 1 .5 : 1 or 2 : 1 . Additionally and/or alternatively, the opaque emulsion may be formed by combining extraneous water in an amount such that the total amount of water in the cosmetic composition increases to more than 10 wt.% or, in some instances, to about 12 wt.% or more, about 15 wt.% or more, about 20 wt.% or more, about 25 wt.% or more, or about 30 wt.% or more, relative to the amount of water in the cosmetic composition before combination with extraneous water.
The opaque emulsion formed from the combination of the cosmetic composition and extraneous water may occur without active mixing from a user or in conjunction with active mixing from the user. For example, in some instances, the opaque emulsion is formed automatically without the need for mixing. In other words, the cosmetic composition becomes sufficiently combined with extraneous water to form the opaque emulsion by simply coming into contact with extraneous water. In some instances, however, a minimal amount of mixing may be needed, and may be encouraged, to more thoroughly form the opaque emulsion. This can easily be achieved during use of the cosmetic composition, for example, by physically manipulating ( e.g ., mixing) the cosmetic composition with extraneous water using the body {e.g., with the hands).
This can occur, for example, when a consumer applies the cosmetic composition to a wet or damp part of the body {e.g., hands, face, skin, hair, etc.). The user may then physically manipulate the applied cosmetic composition (for example, by rubbing the hands together or rubbing the composition against another part of the body such as the face, hair, etc. or using an applicator or device to mix or physically manipulate the cosmetic composition with extraneous water). In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition combines with the extraneous water in situ and forms an opaque emulsion having a higher viscosity than the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water.
In some instances, upon combination with extraneous water, the cosmetic composition forms an emulsion having a lamellar phase, and may even form a multi-lamellar emulsion. In some instance, upon combination with extraneous water, the cosmetic composition forms an emulsion comprising emulsified droplets, micelles, etc. A “lamellar phase” refers generally to packing of polar-headed long chain nonpolar-tail molecules in an environment of bulk polar liquid (i.e., water from the hair), as sheets of bilayers separated by bulk liquid. In some instances, the cosmetic composition is formulated to form the opaque emulsion within 3 minutes of combination (with or without active mixing) with water, preferably in 2 minutes or less, preferably in 1 minute or less, preferably in 45 seconds or less, preferably in 30 seconds or less, preferably in 20 seconds or less, preferably in 10 seconds or, or preferably in 5 seconds or less.
Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from the formulations for the hair cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions, and/or the use of the formulation (e.g., a lotion, gel, cream, spray, etc.).
Polvol(s)
The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups. In some cases, the one or more polyols is/are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols. The one or more polyols may be liquid at ambient temperature (25°C). The one or more polyols may have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 12 carbon atoms.
The polyols of the cosmetic compositions include one or more glycols, and one or more trihydric alcohols.
Glycols
Suitable examples of the one or more glycols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2- butanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable examples are butanediols such as 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, hexanediols such as 2- ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, pentanediols such as 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, octanediols such as caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
Trihydric Alcohols
Suitable examples of the one or more trihydric alcohols include glycerin, trimethylolpropane, butanetriols such as 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4- butanetriol, pentanetriol such as 1 ,2,5-pentanetriol, heptanetriol such as 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof.
The total amount of the one or more polyol(s) in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 20 to about 50 wt.%. For example, the total amount of polyol(s) in the cosmetic composition may be about 20 to about 50 wt.%, about 20 to about 48 wt.%, about 20 to about 45 wt.%, about 20 to about 42 wt.%, about 20 to about 40 wt.%, about 20 to about 38 wt.%, about 20 to about 35 wt.%, about 20 to about 32 wt.%, about 20 to about 30 wt.%, about 20 to about 28 wt.%, or about 20 to about 25 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The amount of the one or more glycols in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 10 to about 49 wt.%. For example, the total amount of glycol(s) in the cosmetic composition may be about 10 to about 49 wt%, or from about 15 to about 45 wt.%, or from about 15 to about 40 wt.%, or from about 20 to about 35 wt.%, from about 22 to about 30 wt.%, or from about 24 to about 28 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The amount of the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 1 to about 10 wt.%. For example, the total amount of trihydric alcohol(s) are present in an amount of from about 1 to about 10 wt.%, or from about 2 to about 9 wt.%, or from about 2 to about 8 wt.%, or from about 3 to about 7 wt.%, or from about 3 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 4 to about 6 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In various embodiments, the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) are present in the cosmetic composition in amount of about 1 , 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, and 10, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Monoalcohol(s)
The cosmetic compositions include one or more monoalcohols, such as those having from 2 to 6 carbon atom. The amount of monoalcohols present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 5 to about 50 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may have monoalcohol(s) in an amount of about 5 to about 50 wt.%, about 5 to about 45 wt.%, about 5 to about 40 wt.%, about 5 to about 35 wt.%, about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 25 wt.%; about 10 to about 50 wt.%, about 10 to about 45 wt.%, about 10 to about 40 wt.%, about 10 to about 35 wt.%, about 10 to about 30 wt.%, about 10 to about 25 wt.%; about 15 to about 50 wt.%, about 15 to about 45 wt.%, about 15 to about 40 wt.%, about 15 to about 35 wt.%, about 15 to about 30 wt.%, or about 15 to about 25 wt.% including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The one or more monoalcohols of the cosmetic composition may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof. In one instance, the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.
The cosmetic composition may be formulated to have an amount of polyol(s) to an amount of monoalcohol(s) in a ratio (i.e. total polyols : total monoalcohols) of 10:1 to 1 :10, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is greater than the total amount of monoalcohol(s). In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is less than the total amount of monoalcohol(s). In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is equal to the total amount of monoalcohol(s).
Cationic surfactant(s)
The cosmetic composition includes three or more cationic surfactant(s) comprising at least one fatty amine, typically in an amount ranging from about 5.5 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of cationic surfactants present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 5.5 to about 9 wt.%, about 5.5 to about 8.5 wt.%; about 5.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 5.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, or about 6 to about 7 wt.%, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition may be formulated such that the three or more cationic surfactants are associated with the same or different balancing anionic ions. For example, at least one of the three or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a chloride ion and/or at least one of the three or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a sulfate ion. Additionally, or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may be formulated such that two of the three or more cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion, or one of the at least three or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a chloride ion and one of the at least three or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a sulfate ion.
The cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
Suitable examples of the cationic surfactants chosen from quaternary ammonium salts are cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, and tricetylmonium chloride.
Additional, non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphen bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCI, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1 , procainehydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts, those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
Additionally and/or alternatively, the cationic surfactants may be chosen from the quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure according to the general formula provided below:
Figure imgf000018_0001
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;
Examples of quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the following general formula:
Figure imgf000019_0001
in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Rie, R19,
R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
The at least one fatty amine are chosen from cationic/cationizable surfactants. Suitable examples of the at least one fatty amines are oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, and arachidamidoethyidimethylamine. The at least one fatty amine may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain. For example, quaternary ammonium salts, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those corresponding to the following general formula:
Figure imgf000020_0001
in which the groups Rs to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Examples of cationic/cationizable surfactants, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the general formula provided below:
R4-A-R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from:
Figure imgf000020_0002
and B is selected from:
Figure imgf000021_0001
wherein Fte and Rz are the same or different and are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms,
Figure imgf000021_0002
Re and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
In some instances, R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, R6 to Rio are same as above.
Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl amine, lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine, lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl buylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearamidopropyl amine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stea ramidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyldibutylamine, stearamidopropyl butylami ne, stearamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl amine, behenamidopropyl methylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dibutylamine, behenamidopropyl butylamine, behenamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilauramidopropyl methylamine, dilauramidopropyl buylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl tri hydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropyl amine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl buylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl amine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyl diethylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl buylamine, myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearoylpropyl amine, stearoylpropyl methylamine, stearoylpropyl diethylamine, stearoylpropyl dibutylamine, stearoylpropyl butylamine, stearoylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl amine, behenylpropyl methylamine, behenylpropyl diethylamine, behenylpropyl dibutylamine, behenylpropyl butylamine, behenylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl methylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl ethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitylpropyl propylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauroylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropyl buylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distearylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl tri hydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylpropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyldihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
Cationizable surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines, preferably, fatty dialkylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl
Figure imgf000023_0001
and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereofare useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
In an embodiment, two of the three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine are chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and behentrimonium chloride and the at least one fatty amine is chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, and arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
In an embodiment, the three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine comprise cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
Fatty Compounds Comprising Fatty alcohoKs ) and Fatty acid(s)
A “fatty compound" is generally an organic compound that is not soluble in water at normal temperature (25°C.) and at atmospheric pressure (750 mmHg) (solubility below 10%). In some instances, the solubility in water may be below 5%, below 1%, or below 0.1%). Moreover, fatty compounds are generally soluble in one or more organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty compounds comprising:
(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and
(ii) one or more fatty acids.
The total amount of fatty compounds comprising fatty alcohols and fatty acids range from about 4 to about 18 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of fatty compounds present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 4 to about 18 wt.%, about 4 to about 17 wt.%, about 5 to about 18 wt.%, about 5 to about 17 wt.%; about 6 to about 18 wt.%, or about 6 to about 17 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The amount of fatty alcohols present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 2 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may have fatty alcohol(s) in an amount of about 2 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 to about 9 wt.%, about 2.5 to about 8.5 wt.%, about 3 to about 8 wt.%, about 3.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 4 to about 7.5 wt.%; about 4.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 5 to about 7 wt.%, about 4 to about 10 wt.%, about 4.5 to about 9.5 wt.%, about 5 to about 9 wt.%, about 5.5 to about 8.5wt.%; or about 6 to about 8 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The amount of fatty acids present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may have fatty acids in an amount of about 0.5 to about 9 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 7 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 6.5 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 6.0 wt.%; about 1 .5 to about 5 wt.%, about 2 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 2 to about 4 wt.%, about 2.5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 2.5 to about 3.5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) in the cosmetic composition is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 , or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1 .8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
In certain embodiments, the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) in the cosmetic composition is at about 10:1 , 9:1 , 8:1 , 7:1 , 6;1 , 5:1 , 4;1 , 4.5:1 , 4.2:1 , 4:1 , 3.8:1 , 3.5:1 , 3.2:1 , 3:1 , 2.8:1 , 2.5:1 , or about 2.3:1.
The one or more fatty alcohols may be chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
The one or more fatty acids may be chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. More generally, the fatty alcohols may be liquid at 25°C., 1 atm, or may even be solid, or may be mixtures of liquid and solid fatty alcohols. They may even be glycerolated and/or oxyalkylenated, and may include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They may be saturated or unsaturated. For example, the fatty alcohols may be chosen from those having from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cholesterol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty alcohols are those selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
Saturated liquid fatty alcohols may be branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, but are preferably acyclic. Non-limiting examples of liquid saturated fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and 2-hexyldecanol.
Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols may include in their structure at least one double or triple bond and, in some instances, one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or non-conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic or non aromatic ring but they are preferably acyclic. Among liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol can be cited.
Solid fatty alcohols include linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetylstearyl alcohol.
Non-limiting examples of high melting point fatty compounds include fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 38°C), cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56°C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59°C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71 °C), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkyl chain is cetyl, stearyl or behenyl group. In the present application, more preferred fatty alcohols are myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
Ester(s)
The esters in the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are typically ester oils chosen from one or more diester, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of liquid esters include fatty esters from a C6-C32 fatty acid and/or a C6-C32 fatty alcohol, and are liquid at 25°C., 1 atm. These esters may be liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C25 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In some cases, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched. Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
In some cases, it is particularly useful to include cetyl esters in the hair conditioning compositions. Cetyl Esters is a mixture of the following esters of saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols: cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, and stearyl stearate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used. Mention may be made in particular of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; triisopropyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
Non-limiting liquid esters (ester oils) or liquid fatty esters that may be mentioned include, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil. The esters of the present disclosure may also further comprise solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters including solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C25 fatty alcohols. Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.
In an embodiment, the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more diesters, in particular, diester oils, chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof.
The one or more triglycerides may be chosen from natural triglycerides (e.g., having a plant origin) or synthetic triglycerides. The triglycerides may have 6 to 30 carbon atoms — such as, for instance, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof. Additionally and/or alternatively, the triglycerides may be chosen from caprylic/capric/isostearic/adipictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/linoleictriglycerides, caprylic/caprictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/stearictriglycerides, glyceryltrilaurate/stearate, glyceryldi/tripalmitostearate, glyceryldi/tritristearate, caprylictriglyceride, caprylic/capric/laurictriglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
The one or more diesters are typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The amount of diesters present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 0.05 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2.5 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, or about 0.5 to about 1 .5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In certain embodiments, the amount of diesters present in the cosmetic composition is at about 0.05. 0.1 , 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.75, 1 , 1 .25,
1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition
The one or more triglycerides are typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The amount of triglycerides present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 13 wt.%, about 1 to about 13 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 12 wt.%, about 2 to about 12 wt.%; about 3 to about 12 wt.%, about 4 to about
12 wt.%, about 5 to about 12 wt.%, about 6 to about 12 wt.%, about 7 to about 12 wt.%, or about 8 to about 10 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, the amount of triglycerides present in the cosmetic composition is at about 1 , 1 ,5, 2, 2,5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8,
8.5, 9, 9.5, or 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition
In an embodiment, the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more triglycerides comprising caprylic/capric triglyceride.
In an embodiment, the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more diesters, in particular, diester oils, and one or more triglycerides. In one embodiment, the one or more diesters include di- C12-
13 alkyl malate, and the one or more triglycerides include caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Non-Silicone Fatty compounds other than Faty alcohoKs ) and Fatty acid(s)
The cosmetic compositions may include non-silicone fatty compounds other than the fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) described above. The amount of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) that may be present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 1 to about 40 wt.%, about 1 to about 35 wt.%, about 1 to about 30 wt.%, about 1 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%; about 2 to about 40 wt.%, about 2 to about 35 wt.%, about 2 to about 30 wt.%, about 2 to about 25 wt.%, about 2 to about 20 wt.%, about 2 to about 15 wt.%, about 2 to about 10 wt.%, or about 2 to about 5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) are mineral oil (paraffins and petroleum ether), fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (such as polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol esters of fatty acids or esters of neopentyl glycol and fatty acids or polyglycerol/glycerol esters of fatty acids or glycol diesters or diesters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids or esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, esters of short chain alcohols and fatty acids), waxes, lanolin, and a mixture thereof.
Additional and/or alternative fatty alcohol derivatives include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and a mixture thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcochol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C1 -C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG8-ceteth-1 , and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and a mixture thereof.
Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbons include linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C16 alkanes; hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. Additionally, the linear or branched hydrocarbons may be composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms of mineral, plant, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and squalane. The other fatty compounds may be chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, and from non-liquid fatty ethers such as dicetyl ether and distearyl ether.
Non-limiting examples of waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides. Non-limiting examples of ceramides include N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmityldihydrosphingosine, N-stearyldihydrosphingosine or N- behenyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.
The non-silicone fatty compounds other than the fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) may be chosen from fatty acid derivatives including, but not limited to, ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture thereof.
Siliconefs )
The cosmetic composition includes one or more silicone(s) typically in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of silicone(s) present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4.5 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 1 to about 4.5 wt.%; or about 1 .5 to about 4.5 wt.%, or about 1 .5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 1 .5 to about 3 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In certain embodiments, the amount of silicone(s) present in the cosmetic composition is at about 0.5, 0.75, 1 , 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.25, 4.5, 4.75, 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine-functionalized silicones ( e.g ., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, etc.
The cosmetic composition may include, in some instances, one or more silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof. For example, the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols. The copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone, and a mixture thereof.
The silicone(s) may, optionally, include or be chosen from a siloxane with a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol containing a tertiary amine group, such as a methacrylic acid ester of diethylamine.
In some cases, the silicones, optionally, include or are chosen from siloxanes having an organo functional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is different than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organofunctional radical such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 25,25-Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone.
In some cases, the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones. For example, the compositions include less than about 3 wt.%, 2 wt.%, 1 wt.%, 0.5 wt.%, 0.4 wt.% 0.3 wt.% 0.2 wt.%, or 0.1 wt.% of silicones (e.g., no silicones).
Water
The cosmetic composition typically includes 10 wt.% or less of water. For example, the amount of water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is typically 10 wt.%, 10 wt.% or less, 9 wt.% or less, 8 wt.% or less, 7 wt.% or less, 6 wt.% or less, 5 wt.% or less, 4 wt.% or less, 3 wt.% or less, 2 wt.% or less, 1 wt.% or less, or 0.5 wt.% or less, based on the total was of the cosmetic composition. In some instances, the water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is added to the composition (“added water”). In some instances, the water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is not “added water,” i.e. , it is present in the cosmetic composition as part of a raw material that is included in the cosmetic composition. Although the cosmetic composition may include water prior to the combination of extraneous water, in some embodiments the cosmetic composition is anhydrous or substantially anhydrous. pH Adiuster(s)
The cosmetic composition may include one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to decrease the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of suitable acids for decreasing the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like. The cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to increase the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases that are suitable for adjusting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art.
The cosmetic composition may, desirably, have a pH ranging from about
1 to about 14, or from about 2 to about 13, or from about 2 to about 12, or from about
2 to about 11 , or from about 2 to about 10 or from about 2 to about 9, or from about 2 to about 8, or from about 2 to about 7, or from about 3 to about 7 or from about 3.5 to about 7, or from about 4 to about 7, or from about 4.5 to about 7, or from about 5 to about 7, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may have a pH of less than 7. For example, the cosmetic composition may have a pH of from about 2 to about 6.8, or about 2.5 to about 6.8, or about 3 to about 6.6, or about 3.5 to about 6.6, or about 4 to about 6.5, or about 4.5 to about 6.5, or about 5 to about 6.5, or about 5.5 to about 6.5, or about 6 to about 6.5, or about 6.2 to about 6.5, including ranges and sub ranges therebetween.
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition has a pH of from about 5 to about 6.5, preferably, about 5.5 to about 6.5, more preferably, about 6 to about 6.5, and even more preferably, about 6.2 to about 6.5, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
The amount of the pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and/or product. For example, the total amount of the pH adjuster may range from about 0.05 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. In some instances, the total amount of pH adjuster is from about 0.05 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or about 0.12 to about 5 wt.%, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure may be incorporated into a kit. For example, the kits may include at least one cosmetic composition according to the instant disclosure and one or more additional compositions, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, etc. The various compositions are separately contained in the kits. In some instances, the kits include one or more cosmetic compositions according the instant disclosure, a shampoo, a conditioner a mask, and/or other hair treatment product, all of which are separately contained. Instructions, mixing components, brushes, gloves, measuring tools, etc., may also optionally be included in the kits.
The compositions may be packaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, a ready-to-use container. Non-limiting examples of useful packaging include tubes, jars, caps, unit dose packages, and bottles, including squeezable tubes, bottles, and sprayable containers. The packaging may be configured so that it can be attached to a wall, such as a wall in a bathroom, including walls of a shower or tub. For example, the packaging can be a container that is configured to attach to a wall, such that when pressure is applied to the container, the composition contained therein is expelled from one or more openings in the container. In some cases, the packaging is a tube, such as a tube with two compartments, or dual tubes, each forming a separate compartment. Each compartment may include a different composition. For example, one tube or compartment may include a cosmetic composition according to the instant disclosure, and the other tube may include a composition to be used with the cosmetic composition, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, an all-in-one shampoo/conditioner (i.e., a conditioning shampoo; also referred to as a “co-wash”) mask or other hair treatment products.
Methods of Treating Hair
Methods of treating hair according to the disclosure may vary but typically include applying a cosmetic composition as disclosed herein, allowing the cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for a sufficient amount of time, and rinsing the cosmetic compositions from the hair. The cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair in a sequence with other compositions. For example, the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair before shampooing the hair, after shampooing the hair, before conditioning the hair, and/or after conditioning the hair, etc. The compositions, however, are not required to be used in a sequence. The methods may include applying an amount of the cosmetic composition onto the body, for example, onto one or both hands, onto the hair, onto the face, etc. The body may already be wet or damp with extraneous water or extraneous water can be included after the cosmetic composition has already been applied to the body. The cosmetic composition and the extraneous water may optionally be mixed together on the body to facilitate formation of an opaque emulsion having an increased viscosity. Alternatively, the cosmetic composition and extraneous water may be combined, and optionally mixed, prior to application to the body. For example, the cosmetic composition may be combined in a container, bowl, packaging, bottle, etc., and subsequently applied to the body after formation of the opaque emulsion.
In some instances, the methods include forming the opaque emulsion on the hands and subsequently applying the opaque emulsion to the hair. In other instances, the methods include forming an opaque emulsion directly on the hair. In yet other instance, the methods include forming an opaque emulsion other the face, or other parts of the body.
The cosmetic compositions and the emulsions formed by combination with water are useful for conditioning and/or managing the hair. The cosmetic compositions and the emulsions formed by combination of water can be applied to the wet or damp hair and may be massaged into the hair, for example, with the hands, and/or spread throughout the hair with a comb or brush. This results in a smoothing and softening of the hair, which reduces frizz, dryness, and unwanted volume.
Another unique aspect of the cosmetic compositions is that they may be used as a leave-on product. The cosmetic compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the cosmetic composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.
In some cases, the cosmetic compositions are used in conjunction with additional hair-treatment compositions in a routine, for example, during an individual’s normal showering/bathing routine. The cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair individually or may be combined with one or more additional compositions. Combining the compositions with one or more additional compositions ( e.g ., a shampoo, a conditioner, a rinse, etc.) can be useful for eliminating multiple steps from a routine. For instance, the cosmetic composition may be mixed with a shampoo (or conditioner) prior to application to the hair. In this case, the mixture of the shampoo (or conditioner) and the cosmetic composition are simultaneously applied to the hair during the cleansing or conditioning process and simultaneously rinsed from the hair. Alternatively, the cosmetic composition may be layered on top of (or lathered into) hair to which a shampoo (or conditioner) has already been applied or vice versa. In this case, the composition may be applied to the hair and without rinsing it from the hair, a shampoo (or conditioner) is then subsequently applied to the hair. Alternatively, the shampoo (or conditioner) may be first applied to the hair and without rinsing the shampoo (or conditioner) from the hair, the cosmetic composition is also applied to the hair.
When used in conjunction with a shampoo and/or a conditioner, the cosmetic composition may be mixed or used with the shampoo and/or conditioner in a ratio of about 1 :10 to about 10:1 , about 1 :5 to about 5:1 , about 1 :3 to about 3:1 , about 1 :2 to about 2:1 , about 1 :1 to about 4:1 , about 1 :1 to about 3:1 , or about 1 :1 to about 2:1 (cosmetic composition of the instant disclosure : shampoo/conditioner, etc.).
The cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure may be allowed to remain on the hair for a minimum amount of time before being rinsed from the hair, but it is not necessary to allow the cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for an extended period of time. Conveniently, the cosmetic compositions can be applied and allowed to remain on the hair for a period of time that is typical for regular shampooing and/or conditioning. For example, the cosmetic composition (whether combined with another hair-treatment composition such as a shampoo or conditioner) may be applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair for a few seconds (1 , 2, 3, or 5 seconds) up to about 1 , about 2, about 5, about 10, about 15, about 20, about 25, or about 30 minutes.
When the cosmetic composition is not being mixed with another composition prior to application to the hair, the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair immediately after or before the hair is treated with another composition (e.g., a shampoo and/or a conditioner). For example, the hair-treatment compositions may be applied to the hair within about a few seconds or 1 , 2, 5, 10, or 20 minutes before or after a shampoo and/or a conditioner is applied to the hair.
The cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are unique in their ability to provide hair with improved manageability, shape/style, long-lasting style and frizz control, curl definition, curl retention, and smoothness. Accordingly, the instant disclosure relates to methods for treating hair, for example, for improving the manageability of hair, for imparting lasting style and frizz control, and for imparting smoothness. More specifically, the cosmetic compositions may be used in methods for conditioning the hair, providing curl definition to the hair, providing frizz control to the hair, improving ease of combability and detangling, and providing smoothness.
Embodiments
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of about 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the cosmetic composition forms an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, wherein the cosmetic composition includes:
- about 20 to about 48 wt.%, about 20 to about 45 wt.%, about 20 to about 42 wt.%, about 20 to about 40 wt.%, about 20 to about 38 wt.%, about 20 to about 35 wt.%, about 20 to about 32 wt.%, about 20 to about 30 wt.%, about 20 to about 28 wt.%, or about 20 to about 25 wt.% of one or more polyols comprising:
(i) one or more glycols chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2-butanediol, 1 ,3- butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol; polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, and mixtures thereof; and
(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and chosen from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,2,5- pentanetriol, and mixtures thereof;
- about 5 to about 45 wt.%, about 5 to about 40 wt.%, about 5 to about
35 wt.%, about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 25 wt.%; about 10 to about 50 wt.%, about 10 to about 45 wt.%, about 10 to about 40 wt.%, about 10 to about 35 wt.%, about 10 to about 30 wt.%, about 10 to about 25 wt.%; about 15 to about 50 wt.%, about 15 to about 45 wt.%, about 15 to about 40 wt.%, about 15 to about 35 wt.%, about 15 to about 30 wt.%, or about 15 to about 25 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl- 2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and mixtures thereof; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is from about 9:1 to about 1 :9, or from about 8:1 to about 1 :8, or from about 7:1 to about 1 :7, or from about 6:1 to about 1 :6, or from about 5:1 to about 1 :5, or from about 4:1 to about 1 :4, or from about 3:1 to about 1 :3, or from about 2:1 to about 1 :2, or from about 1 .5:1 to about 1 :1.5; and where the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is from about 10:1 to about 1 .2:1 or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5:1 , or from about 7:1 to about 2:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3.5:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 4:1 , or from about 5.5:1 to about 4:1 ;
- about 5.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 5.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, or about 6 to about 7 wt.%, of three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
- about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:
(i) about 3.5 to about 10 wt.% of one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and
(ii) about 0.5 to about 8 wt.% of one or more fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 8:1 to about 1 .5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1 .8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2:1 ;
- one or more esters chosen from:
(i) about 0.05 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2.5 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, or about 0.5 to about 1 .5 wt.%, of one or more diesters;
(ii) about 1.5 to about 12 wt.%, about 2 to about 12 wt.%; about 3 to about 12 wt.%, about 4 to about 12 wt.%, about 5 to about 12 wt.%, about 6 to about 12 wt.%, about 7 to about 12 wt.%, or about 8 to about 10 wt.%, of one or more triglycerides; and
(iii) mixtures thereof;
- about 1 .5 to about 4.5 wt.%, or about 1 .5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 1 .5 to about 3 wt.%, of one or more silicones; and
- 10 wt.% or less of water, preferably 8 wt.% or less, more preferably 6 wt.% or less, of water; wherein the composition is a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of about 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the composition interacts with the extraneous water to form an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than the viscosity of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water; and wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the solubilized, transparent composition.
In additional embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of about 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the cosmetic composition forms an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, wherein the cosmetic composition includes:
- about 20 to about 48 wt.%, about 20 to about 45 wt.%, about 20 to about 42 wt.%, about 20 to about 40 wt.%, about 20 to about 38 wt.%, about 20 to about 35 wt.%, about 20 to about 32 wt.%, about 20 to about 30 wt.%, about 20 to about 28 wt.%, or about 20 to about 25 wt.% of one or more polyols including, but not limited to, propylene glycol and glycerin;
- about 5 to about 45 wt.%, about 5 to about 40 wt.%, about 5 to about 35 wt.%, about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 25 wt.%; about 10 to about 50 wt.%, about 10 to about 45 wt.%, about 10 to about 40 wt.%, about 10 to about 35 wt.%, about 10 to about 30 wt.%, about 10 to about 25 wt.%; about 15 to about 50 wt.%, about 15 to about 45 wt.%, about 15 to about 40 wt.%, about 15 to about 35 wt.%, about 15 to about 30 wt.%, or about 15 to about 25 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, including, but not limited to, ethanol;
- wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is from about 3:1 to about 1 :3, or from about 2:1 to about 1 :2, or from about 1 .5:1 to about 1 :1 .5; and
- wherein the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is from about 6:1 to about 3:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3.5:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 4:1 , or from about 5.5:1 to about 4:1 ;
- about 5.5 to about 10 wt.% of three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine, including but not limited to stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and behentrimonium methosulfate;
- about 4 to about 18 wt.%, preferably about 4 to about 17 wt.%; more preferably about 5 to about 17 wt.%, of one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof, such as, e.g., one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof, and/or one or more fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof;
- about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:
(i) about 3.5 to about 10 wt.% of one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and
(ii) about 0.5 to about 8 wt.% of one or more fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 8:1 to about 1.5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1.8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2:1 ;
- about 1 to about 15 wt.% of one or more esters comprising:
(i) diesters chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof; and
(ii) triglycerides chosen from caprylic/capric/isostearic/adipictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/linoleictriglycerides, caprylic/caprictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/stearictriglycerides, glyceryltrilaurate/stearate, glyceryldi/tripalmitostearate, glyceryldi/tritristearate, caprylictriglyceride, caprylic/capric/laurictriglycerides, and mixtures thereof;
- about 1.5 to about 4.5 wt.%, or about 1.5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 1.5 to about 3 wt.%, of one or more silicones comprising dimethicone copolyols; and
- 10 wt.% or less of water, preferably 8 wt.% or less, more preferably 6 wt.% or less, of water; wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the solubilized, transparent composition.
In yet further embodiments, a method is provided for applying a cosmetic composition, such as those described herein, the method including: applying a cosmetic composition as described herein to wet or damp hair; optionally, mixing the cosmetic composition with a shampoo and/or layering the cosmetic composition onto hair with a shampoo; optionally, mixing the cosmetic composition with a conditioner and/or layering the cosmetic composition onto hair with a conditioner; forming an emulsion in situ; and optionally, rinsing the emulsion/cosmetic composition from the hair.
Implementation of the present disclosure is provided by way of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature. Example 1 (Composition)
Figure imgf000043_0001
Process of Making:
The compositions of the invention can be prepared by the process below according to the steps:
1. Add Propylene Glycol (30% of total amount), Cetrimonium Chloride, Behetrimonium Chloride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Di-C12-C13 Alkyl Malate, Myristic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-12 Dimethicone. Homogenize and heat to about 75°C.
2. Add stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and lactic acid. Homogenize for about 5 minutes, and heat to about 75°C. 3. Homogenize with fast stirring for a few more minutes. T Start cooling and add remaining propylene glycol (70%) and glycerin and homogenize at lower speed.
5. At about 40°C, add fragrance (if any) and homogenize.
6. At about 30°C, add alcohol and homogenize at slightly lower speed until composition becomes a clear liquid with no solids.
Figure imgf000044_0001
Figure imgf000044_0002
Figure imgf000045_0001
Figure imgf000045_0002
Example 2
(Crystallization Point and Usage)
The crystallization point of Inventive Formula A and Comparative Formula X were assessed and compared as shown:
Figure imgf000046_0001
A lower crystallization point was more desirable because it indicates a broader temperature range in which compositions can remain clear/transparent or free of visibly detectable crystallization.
Example 3 (Swatch Tests)
The test products, Inventive Formula A and Comparative Formula X, were applied on hair swatches of Caucasian type III (with some curls - between wavy and curly hair). Four panelists’ assessments of the hair swatches after the treatment are summarized below:
Figure imgf000046_0002
Example 4 (Swatch Tests)
The test products, Inventive Formula A and Comparative Formulas X and Y, were applied onto curly hair swatches of and photographs of the swatches were taken (see Figures 1 to 3). The treated hair swatches were evaluated by laboratory analysts with respect to sensorial aspects (during application, wet hair and dry hair) such as smoothness, detangling, frizz control, heaviness of the treatment and alignment. Figures 1 to 3 show better alignment of the hair fibers (dry) treated with the invention formula as compared to the hair fibers treated with comparative formulas X and Y and the hair fibers that had no treatment. It was also observed that the invention formula did not impart a heaviness to the hair as compared to comparative formula X. Thus, the inventive formula A was a lighter treatment and at the same time, imparted more smoothness and lightness during application.
Example 5
(Comparative Testing)
In a consumer qualitative study, the test products, Inventive Composition A and Comparative Compositions Y and Z, were tested in a pump spray format by 30 human volunteers (by cell) on their hair. The products are either applied by hand onto the hair or sprayed directly onto the hair.
The volunteers had the following criteria:
Straight to moderately curly hair;
Users of rinse-off treatments at least twice a week (masks and/or ampules);
2/3 have gone through some chemical treatment (straightening, bleaching, coloring, i.e., chemically damaged hair);
The volunteers provided their assessments of Inventive Composition A versus Composition Y as follows:
1 . Composition A required lower amount of product a. Mostly used 3 to 4g of Composition A b. Mostly used 5 to 10g of Composition Y
2. Composition A was found to: a. be easier to apply and spread; b. provide more instantaneous results on the hair, regarding easiness to detangle and smoothness. c. provide the following results on hair: smooth, shiny, hydrated, healthy, strong, frizz control, immediate results; d. provide texture: creamier and smoother texture (after transformation); e. provide a greater perception of deep hydration; f. provide a texture transformation from liquid to cream or emulsion, thus contributing to a better consumer experience.
While some volunteers found that Composition A made the hair oily and heavy, overall, the volunteers did not favor the liquid and water-like texture of Composition Y.
The volunteers provided their assessments of Inventive Composition A versus Composition Z as follows:
1. Composition A Requires Lower amount of product a. Mostly used 2.5g to 3.75g of Composition A b. Mostly more than 5g of Composition Z
2. Composition A was found to: a. be easier to apply and spread; b. provide the following results on hair: smooth, shiny, hydrated, healthy, strong, frizz control, immediate results; c. provide texture: creamier texture (after transformation); d. provide a texture transformation from liquid to cream or emulsion, thus contributing to a better consumer experience
While it was found that Composition A took longer to rinse out and made the hair oil/heavy, Composition Z was found to be harder to spread on the hair because it was “too liquid” or thin in consistency.
Overall, the volunteers evaluated the inventive Composition A as being more associated with hydration; the attributes observed were as follows: required less amount of product was easier to apply and spread had a light, soft, slightly oily, not sticky, and thin texture was well absorbed “by the hands” had an instantaneous result on hair had a creamier, oilier, more homogeneous texture, with foaming eliminated hair dryness left the hair shiny appeared to provide end repair or reduce split ends provided ease of detangling and smoothness resulted in loose, light feel of hair, with movement of hair. The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two components that overlap), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component.
All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.
As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular. Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” also relates to “mixtures thereof.” Throughout the disclosure, the term “a mixture thereof” is used, following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.” The term, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions may be modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.
The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as skin, in particular, the skin of the head, face, and neck.
The term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a specific material other than water added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 1 wt.%, less than about 0.5 wt.%, less than about 0.1 wt.%, or none of the specified material other than water. All of the components set forth herein may be optionally included or excluded from the compositions/method/kits. When excluded, the compositions/methods/kits may be free or essentially free of the component.
The term “substantially anhydrous” as used herein means that there is less than about 10% by weight of water in the composition, based on the total weight of the composition. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 9 wt.%, less than about 8 wt.%, less than about 7 wt.%, less than about 6 wt.%, less than about 5 wt.%, less than about 4 wt.%, less than about 3 wt.%, less than about 2 wt.%, less than about 1 wt.%, or none of water.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a) about 20 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols comprising:
(i) one or more glycols; and
(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; b) about 5 to about 50 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :10; and where the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is greater than 1 , such as from about 10:1 to about 1.2:1 ; c) about 5.5 to about 10 wt.% of three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine; d) about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:
(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and
(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 ; e) about 1 to about 20 wt.% of one or more esters; f) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% of one or more silicones; and g) 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is a solubilized, transparent composition until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque emulsion, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water.
3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the glycols are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2- propanediol, butanediols, hexanediols, pentanediols, octanediols, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , comprising propylene glycol.
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms are chosen from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, butanetriols, pentanetriols, and mixtures thereof.
6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , comprising glycerin.
7. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the glycols are present in an amount of from about 10 to about 49 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the trihydric alcohols are present in an amount of from about 1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms are chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl- 2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and mixtures thereof.
10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , comprising ethanol.
11 . The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the three or more cationic surfactants comprises at least one fatty amine and at least one cationic surfactant, including its salts, of the general formula (I):
Figure imgf000052_0001
wherein Ri and FU, may independently be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals comprising from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, or an alkoxy, alkoxycarbonylalkyl, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, alkylamidoalkyl, hydroxyalkyl, aromatic, aryl or alkylaryl radical comprising from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, with at least one radical among Ri, R2, R3 and R4 denoting a radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atom; and X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl- sulfonates.
12. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one fatty amine is chosen from C12-C22 alkyl amines, C12-C22 alkoxy amines, C12-C22 alkyl amido amines, C12-C22 alkoxy amido amines, and mixtures thereof.
13. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein the at least one fatty amine is chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
14. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant of the general formula (I) is chosen from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
15. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the three or more cationic surfactants comprise stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cetrimonium chloride, and behentrimonium chloride.
16. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more fatty alcohols are chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
17. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more fatty acids are chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
18. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more esters is chosen from one or more diesters, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
19. The cosmetic composition of claim 18, wherein the one or more diesters are chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof and wherein the one or more triglycerides comprises caprylic/capric triglyceride.
20. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more silicones are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof.
21 . The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the composition is anhydrous or substantially anhydrous.
22. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , being a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of about 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water.
23. The cosmetic composition of claim 22, wherein a lamellar phase is formed upon the combination of extraneous water.
24. A cosmetic composition comprising: a) about 20 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols comprising:
(i) one or more glycols chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2-butanediol, 1 ,3- butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol; polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, and mixtures thereof; and
(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and chosen from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,2,5- pentanetriol, and mixtures thereof; b) about 5 to about 50 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2- methylbutan-2-ol), and mixtures thereof; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is from about 9:1 to about 1 :9; and where the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is from about 10:1 to about 1 .2:1 ; c) about 5.5 to about 10 wt.% of three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; d) about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:
(i) about 3.5 to about 10 wt.% of one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and
(ii) about 0.5 to about 8 wt.% of one or more fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 8:1 to about 1 .5:1 ; e) about 1 to about 20 wt.% of one or more esters chosen from one or more diesters, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; f) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% of one or more silicones; and g) 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein the composition is a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of about 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the composition interacts with the extraneous water to form an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than the viscosity of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water; and wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the solubilized, transparent composition.
25. The cosmetic composition of claim 24, wherein a lamellar phase emulsion is formed upon the combination of extraneous water.
26. A method for treating hair comprising:
- applying a cosmetic composition to wet or damp hair, the composition comprising: a) about 20 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols comprising:
(i) one or more glycols; and
(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; b) about 5 to about 50 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols : total monoalcohols) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :10; and where the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols : total trihydric alcohols) is greater than 1 , such as from about 10:1 to about 1.2:1 ; c) about 5.5 to about 10 wt.% of three or more cationic surfactants comprising at least one fatty amine; d) about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:
(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and
(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 ; e) about 1 to about 20 wt.% of one or more esters; f) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.% of one or more silicones; and g) 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition;
- forming an emulsion in situ, and
- optionally rinsing the emulsion from the hair.
27. The method of claim 26, wherein the emulsion formed is a lamellar phase emulsion.
28. The method of claim 26, wherein the cosmetic composition is: mixed with a shampoo prior to application to hair; or layered onto hair with a shampoo; or applied to hair after a shampoo has been rinsed from the hair; or layered onto hair with a conditioner; or mixed with a conditioner prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a conditioner has been rinsed from the hair; or mixed with a leave-in hair treatment prior to application to hair; or mixed with a mask composition prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a mask composition has been applied to.
29. The method of claim 26, wherein the method: conditions the hair; and/or provides curl definition to the hair; and/or provides frizz control to the hair; and/or improves ease of combability and detangling; and/or protects the hair from damage; and/or increases the appearance of hair volume.
PCT/BR2020/050234 2020-06-30 2020-06-30 Cosmetic compositions capable of forming an emulsion WO2022000051A1 (en)

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