WO2022178599A1

WO2022178599A1 - Hair care cosmetic composition, method of treating or caring for hair and method of preventing or minimizing the yellowing of hair care cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: WO2022178599A1
Application number: PCT/BR2021/050086
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thamires Calegari RODRIGUES; Leandro Valeriano DE CARVALHO
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-02-26
Filing date: 2021-02-26
Publication date: 2022-09-01
Also published as: FR3120192A1

Abstract

The present invention is related to hair care cosmetic compositions capable of forming an emulsion, and particularly those forming an emulsion in situ upon combination with extraneous water, wherein the composition is substantially anhydrous (i.e., the amount of water can be about 10 wt.% or less). The present invention also relates to a method of treating or caring for hair and a method of preventing or minimizing the yellowing of hair care cosmetic compositions.

Description

HAIR CARE COSMETIC COMPOSITION, METHOD OF TREATING OR CARING FOR HAIR AND METHOD OF PREVENTING OR MINIMIZING THE YELLOWING OF HAIR CARE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Consumers desire new and improved compositions for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning keratinous substances, particularly dry hair. Dryness and damage of the hair can occur due to several factors including weather exposure, mechanical treatments ( e.g . brushing hair), excessive treatments using chemicals, dying hair, heat styling/shaping, etc. In combination, using cleansing products that can be excessively stripping of hair's natural oils, can also lead to split ends, dull hair, and exacerbate dry hair. To mitigate the damage, the individuals tend to use several products such as oil treatments, conditioner, hair masks, and chemical treatments in order to try to recover the hydration (and reduce the frizz), malleability, shine and strength of damaged hair.

It is important to point out that, due to the busy like, consumers desire products to treat the hair or damaged hair that is not time consuming and labor intensive to use. A variety of approaches has been developed to condition the hair, and a common method of providing conditioning benefit is through the use of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents are known to provide various conditioning benefits.

Therefore, there is a need for developing new and improved formulations and methods for treating hair that provide natural luster, shine, and softness, or to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of the hair, that are easy to use and provide the benefits above.

Given this scenario, the inventors of the present application developed a new hair care cosmetic composition that meets the individual’s desires and overcome the problems of the state of the art, wherein such hair care cosmetic composition is liquid and transparent, being also substantially anhydrous (/. e., the amount of water can be about 10 wt.% or less), that forms an emulsion with increased viscosity when in contact with external water.

The challenge to formulate this kind of hair care cosmetic composition is the composition tends may become unstable due to interactions between the ingredients, especially when some ingredients are ionically charged and/or due to interactions with external factors such as metals (contaminants present throughout several steps of manufacturing and application, such as from raw materials, kettle, filling machines, components of the packaging). When such interaction occurs with metals, the hair care cosmetic composition tends to be unstable and undergo discoloration, for example, a color transformation to yellow. Such yellowing transformation may be increased or become even more evident when some types of fragrances are added to the composition.

In this sense, to avoid metal interaction and yellowing of the formulation, a person skilled in the art would be motivated to include chelants in the composition. However, even using chelants, it is very difficult to ensure the stability and protection against metals for cosmetic compositions with low water concentration and high concentration of cationic raw materials, since it is necessary to be sure that the chelant is properly ionized to make the molecule charges available to bond with the metals. Another very important point to be considered regarding chelants, is that they are anionic by nature so they can bond with the positive charges of metals and raw materials.

Thus, beyond all the challenges mentioned, the inventors were capable to achieve a hair care cosmetic composition having a low water content and high amount of cationic surfactants, that is stable when exposed to metals, especially when fragrance is present in the composition and still providing a hair treatment leveraging performance through experience (texture transformation).

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present application relates to a hair care cosmetic composition comprising one or more polyols, one or more monoalcohols, one or more cationic surfactants, one or more fatty compounds, esters, one or more silicones, at least one chelant; wherein the composition is substantially anhydrous, liquid and transparent, until combined with external water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the external water. The present invention also relates to a process for manufacturing the hair care cosmetic composition.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

The hair care cosmetic compositions of the present invention provide a unique sensorial experience by forming an emulsion with increased viscosity during use. Particularly, during use, the consumer combines the cosmetic composition with extraneous water ( e.g ., water other than the water already included in the cosmetic composition). This impacts in the formation of the emulsion with increased viscosity. The cosmetic compositions are typically solubilized and transparent (or translucent) prior to use when the cosmetic composition is combined with extraneous water. As the cosmetic composition becomes mixed with extraneous water, the viscosity of the composition increases, an emulsion forms, and the composition becomes opaque. This can occur, for example, when a consumer applies the cosmetic composition to a wet or damp part of the body {e.g., hands, face, skin, hair, etc.). The user may then physically manipulate the applied cosmetic composition (for example, by rubbing the hands together or rubbing the composition against another part of the body such as the face, hair, etc.). The cosmetic composition combines with the extraneous water in situ and forms an opaque emulsion having a higher viscosity than the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water.

The cosmetic compositions typically comprise: a) about 5 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols selected from:

(i) one or more glycols; and

(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; b) about 20 to about 90 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols:total monoalcohols) is from about 1 :18 to about 10:4; and c) about 4 to about 10 wt.% of one or more cationic surfactants; d) about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:

(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and

(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols: total fatty acids) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 ; e) about 8 to about 15 wt.% of one or more esters; f) about 1 to about 10 wt.% of one or more silicones; g) about 0.05 to about 2 wt.% of one or more chelants selected from glutamic acid, diacetic acid, and a mixture thereof; and h) about 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.

The hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise fragrance.

The hair care cosmetic composition is typically substantially anhydrous, liquid and transparent, with a viscosity ranging from about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at about 25 ^QC, and a pH that ranges from about 5.5 to about 7, before being combined with extraneous water (/.e., water other than the water of component g), and after the combination with the extraneous water, the hair care cosmetic composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the extraneous water, preferably ranging from about 500 mPa.s to about 4000 mPa.s.

The hair care composition according to the present invention is stable over the time and does not present color alteration or discoloration (yellowing).

In an embodiment, the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion can have a lamellar phase structure.

In an embodiment, the resulting opaque or turbid emulsion has a viscosity that is greater than that of the solubilized, transparent composition prior to combination with the extraneous water.

Non-limiting examples of glycols include, but are not limited to, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2- butanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol; polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the one or more gylcol(s) includes or consists of propylene glycol.

Non-limiting examples of trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably, from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, include, but are not limited to, glycerin, trimethylolpropane, butanetriols such as 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, pentanetriol such as 1 ,2,5-pentanetriol, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) includes or consists of glycerin.

Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols include, but are not limited to, ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof. In an embodiment, the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.

In some embodiments, the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols:total monoalcohols) is from about 1 : 18 to about 10:4, from about 10:1 to about 1 :10, or from about 9:1 to about 1 :9, or from about 8:1 to about 1 :8, or from about 7:1 to about 1 :7, or from about 6:1 to about 1 :6, or from about 5:1 to about 1 :5, or from about 4:1 to about 1 :4, or from about 3:1 to about 1 :3, or from about 2:1 to about 1 :2, from about 1.5:1 to about 1 :1.5, or from about 1.3:1 to about 1 :1.3, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols:total monoalcohols) is at about 10:1 , 9:1 . 8:1 , 7;1 , 6:1 , 5;1 , 4;1 , 3;1 , 2.5:1 , 2:1 , 1.5:1 , 1 :4:1 , 1 :3:1 , 1.2:1 , 1.1 :1 , 1 :1 , 1 :1.1 , 1 :1.2, 1 :1.3, 1 :1.4, 1 :1.5, 1 :2, 1 :3, 1 :4, 1 :5, 1 :6, 1 :7, 1 :8, 1 :9, or 1 :10.

In a preferred embodiment, the glycols are present in an amount of from about 2.5 to about 49 wt.%, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another further embodiment, the trihydric alcohols are present in an amount of from about 1.0 to about 10 wt.%, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, the weight ratio of glycols to trihydric alcohols (total glycols:total trihydric alcohols) is greater than 1 , such as from about 10:1 to about 1 .2:1 or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5:1 , or from about 7:1 to about 2:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 3.5:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 4:1 , or from about 5.5:1 to about 4:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, those chosen from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl

oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, at least one or more cationic surfactants has a chloride ion and/or at least one of the two or more cationic surfactants has a sulfate ion. Additionally or alternatively, in some embodiments, at least one or more cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion or a sulfate ion.

In some embodiments, one or more cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion and/or a sulfate ion and one of the three or more cationic surfactants is a fatty amine. In at least one embodiment, the one or more cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the cationic surfactants in the composition of the present disclosure (first quaternary ammonium salt:second quaternary ammonium salt: fatty amine) is from about 2.0 - 3.0:2.0 - 3.0:1 .0 - 3.0, or about 2.1 :2.5:2.0, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.

The hair cosmetic composition includes one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

In some embodiments, the one or more fatty compounds are chosen from decyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof.

In an embodiment, the one or more fatty acids comprise myristic acid.

In some embodiments, the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols : total fatty acids) is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 , or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5:1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1 .8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2:1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.

The one or more esters may be or include one or more diesters, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of diesters include those chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the one or more esters comprise caprylic/capric triglyceride.

In an embodiment, the one or more esters comprise di-C-12-13 alkyl malate.

In an embodiment, the one or more esters comprise caprylic/capric triglyceride and di-Ci2-i3 alkyl malate.

Non-limiting examples of the one or more silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof. For example, in some instances, the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols. The copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6

Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone, and a mixture thereof.

In an embodiment, the one or more silicones comprise one or more dimethicone copolyols chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10

Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18

Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24

Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 27/27 Dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the one or more silicones comprise PEG-12 dimehticone.

In an embodiment, the composition of the instant disclosure is substantially anhydrous.

The instant disclosure provides hair conditioning, frizz control, protection from damage, etc. The compositions can be applied immediately after shampooing the hair, for example, in place of a conditioner. The compositions can be applied on hair immediately after shampooing and conditioning the hair, for example, as a mask rinse- off or leave-in treatment. The compositions can also be applied before shampooing the hair as pre-treatment compositions. Moreover, the compositions are applied to wet or damp hair and massaged into the hair to ensure uniform coverage. After application to the hair, the hair may be rinsed with water, dried, and styled as desired. Another unique aspect of the compositions is that they may be used as a leave-on product. The compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the hair composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.

The hair care cosmetic compositions of the present application may provide a unique sensorial experience by forming an emulsion with increased viscosity during use. During use, a user combines the hair care cosmetic composition with external water ( e.g ., water other than the water already included in the hair care cosmetic composition). This results in the formation of an emulsion may have a increased viscosity. The hair care cosmetic compositions are typically solubilized and transparent (or translucent) prior to use when the hair care cosmetic composition is combined with external water. As the hair care cosmetic composition becomes mixed with external water, the viscosity of the composition may increase, an emulsion forms, and the composition becomes opaque or turbid. This can occur, for example, when an individual applies the hair care cosmetic composition to a wet or damp part of the body {e.g., hands, face, skin, hair, etc.). The individual may then physically manipulate the applied hair care cosmetic composition (for example, by rubbing the hands together or rubbing the composition against another part of the body such as the face, hair, etc.). The hair care cosmetic composition combines with the external water instantaneously and forms an opaque or turbid emulsion having a higher viscosity than the hair care cosmetic composition prior to combination with external water.

The cosmetic compositions typically combine with water to form an emulsion with at least the same or with increased viscosity. For example, the cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C using a Rheomat® viscosimeter (spindle #1 ) at 200 revolutions per minute (RPM) prior to combination with extraneous water. After combination with extraneous water, the viscosity may be, for example, about 500 mPa.s to about 4000 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C using a Rheomat® viscosimeter (spindle #2 and #3) at 200 revolutions per minute (RPM). In some instances, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is about 1 mPa.s to about 30 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s, or about 5 mPa.s to about 30 mPa.s. After combination with extraneous water, the viscosity may be, for example, about 500 mPa.s to about 4000 mPa.s, about 10 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 40 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 50 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 100 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 500 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 1 ,000 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 5,000 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 30,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 50 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 100 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, or about 500 mPa.s to about 20,000 mPa.s, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.

The cosmetic composition forms an opaque emulsion upon combination with extraneous water, for example, from a user’s wet or damp hands, wet or damp hair, and/or from the faucet and the like. The opaque emulsion may be formed by combining extraneous water with the cosmetic composition in a ratio (water : composition) ranging from about 10:1 to about 1 :10, or about 5:1 to about 1 :5, or 3:1 to about 1 :3, or about 1 :2 to about 2:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, or at about 0.5:1 , 1 :1 , 1.5:1 , or 2:1. Additionally and/or alternatively, the opaque emulsion may be formed by combining extraneous water in an amount such that the total amount of water in the cosmetic composition increases to more than 10 wt.% or, in some instances, to about 12 wt.% or more, about 15 wt.% or more, about 20 wt.% or more, about 25 wt.% or more, or about 30 wt.% or more, relative to the amount of water in the cosmetic composition before combination with extraneous water.

The opaque emulsion formed from the combination of the cosmetic composition and extraneous water may occur without active mixing from a user or in conjunction with active mixing from the user. For example, in some instances, the opaque emulsion is formed automatically without the need for mixing. In other words, the cosmetic composition becomes sufficiently combined with extraneous water to form the opaque emulsion by simply coming into contact with extraneous water. In some instances, however, a minimal amount of mixing may be needed, and may be encouraged, to more thoroughly form the opaque emulsion. This can easily be achieved during use of the cosmetic composition, for example, by physically manipulating ( e.g ., mixing) the cosmetic composition with extraneous water using the body {e.g., with the hands).

This can occur, for example, when a consumer applies the cosmetic composition to a wet or damp part of the body {e.g., hands, face, skin, hair, etc.). The user may then physically manipulate the applied cosmetic composition (for example, by rubbing the hands together or rubbing the composition against another part of the body such as the face, hair, etc. or using an applicator or device to mix or physically manipulate the cosmetic composition with extraneous water). In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition combines with the extraneous water in situ and forms an opaque emulsion having a higher viscosity than the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water.

In some instances, upon combination with extraneous water, the cosmetic composition forms an emulsion having a lamellar phase, and may even form a multi-lamellar emulsion. In some instance, upon combination with extraneous water, the cosmetic composition forms an emulsion comprising emulsified droplets, micelles, etc. A “lamellar phase” refers generally to packing of polar-headed long chain nonpolar-tail molecules in an environment of bulk polar liquid (i.e., water from the hair), as sheets of bilayers separated by bulk liquid. In some instances, the cosmetic composition is formulated to form the opaque emulsion within 3 minutes of combination (with or without active mixing) with water, preferably in 2 minutes or less, preferably in 1 minute or less, preferably in 45 seconds or less, preferably in 30 seconds or less, preferably in 20 seconds or less, preferably in 10 seconds, or preferably in 5 seconds or less.

Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from the formulations for the hair cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions, and/or the use of the formulation (e.g., a lotion, gel, cream, spray, etc.).

The present invention is also related to a method for manufacturing the hair cosmetic composition, that is stable over the time and does not yellowing.

TERMS

The terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.

The compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” is interchangeable with the expression “one or more” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. Furthermore, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.

As used herein, the term "transparent” refers to a hair care cosmetic composition having a transmittance of at least 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. The compositions may have, e.g., a transmittance of at least 80%, at least 90%, or at least 95% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, e.g., using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. The term "transparent” can also mean that an article is visible to the human eye when looking through the har care cosmetic composition contained in a clear glass bottle.

As used herein, the term "opaque” refers to a hair care cosmetic composition having a transmittance of below 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.

The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

As defined herein, the term “external water” can also mean “extraneous water”.

The compositions described throughout this disclosure may be a “leave- on” product. A "leave-on" (also called leave-in) product refers to a hair treatment composition that is applied to hair and is not subjected to immediate rinsing and/or washing for at least 4 hours or for a period of time ranging from 4 hours up to 72 hours, from 4 hours up to 48 hours, or from 8 hours up to 36 hours, or from 8 hours up to 24 hours. In other words, the product is applied to the hair and remains on the hair, as styled, i.e., it is not removed from the hair prior to shaping the hair.

According to the present invention, the hair care cosmetic composition is “substantially anhydrous”, “essentially free of water” or “substantially free of water.” A substantially anhydrous composition may include up to 10 wt.% of water regardless of whether the water is added to the composition or part of a raw material. Nonetheless, the substantially anhydrous composition may include less than 9 wt.%, less than 8 wt.%, less than 7 wt.%, less than 6 wt.%, less than 5 wt.%, less than 4 wt.%, less than 3 wt.%, less than 2 wt.%, less than 1 wt.%, or less than 0.5 wt.% of water.

The term “hair care” is interchangeable with the term “hair treatment” for purposes of the instant disclosure.

In a preferred embodiment, after the combination of the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention with external water, an opaque or turbid composition is formed, and the obtained opaque or turbid emulsion can have a lamellar phase structure. As used herein, a “lamellar phase” refers generally to packing of polar headed long chain nonpolar-tail molecules in an environment of bulk polar liquid (i.e., water from the hair), as sheets of bilayers separated by bulk liquid.

The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular. Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” also relates to “mixtures thereof.” Throughout the disclosure, the term “a mixture thereof” is used, following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.” The term, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which can encompass +/- 10%, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1%, or +/- 0.5%.

All numbers expressing pH values are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which encompasses up to +/- 3%.

“Substituted," as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

The term “free” or “completely free of (a component)” as defined herein means that the composition does not contain the component in any measurable degree by standard means.

Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.

The expression "inclusive" for a range of concentrations means that the limits of the range are included in the defined interval.

All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.

POLYOL(S)

The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups. In some cases, the one or more polyols is/are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols. The one or more polyols may be liquid at ambient temperature (25°C). The one or more polyols may have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 12 carbon atoms.

The polyols of the cosmetic compositions include one or more glycols, and one or more trihydric alcohols.

GLYCOLS

Suitable examples of the one or more glycols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 2,2-propanediol, butanediols such as 1 ,2- butanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable examples are butanediols such as 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, hexanediols such as 2- ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, pentanediols such as 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, octanediols such as caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

TRIHYDRIC ALCOHOLS

Suitable examples of the one or more trihydric alcohols include glycerin, trimethylolpropane, butanetriols such as 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 1 ,2,4- butanetriol, pentanetriol such as 1 ,2,5-pentanetriol, heptanetriol such as 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more polyol(s) in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 5 to about 50 wt.%. For example, the total amount of polyol(s) in the cosmetic composition may be about 5 to about 50 wt.%, about 5 to about 48 wt.%, about 5 to about 45 wt.%, about 5 to about 42 wt.%, about 5 to about 40 wt.%, about 5 to about 38 wt.%, about 5 to about 35 wt.%, about 5 to about 32 wt.%, about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 28 wt.%, or about 5 to about 25 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The amount of the one or more glycols in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 2.5 to about 49 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The amount of the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 1.0 to about 10 wt.% about 1.0 to about 8 wt.%, about 2.0 to about 7 wt.%, about 2 to about 6 wt.%, or about 3 to about 6 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In various embodiments, the one or more trihydric alcohol(s) are present in the cosmetic composition in amount of about 1 , about 1 .5, about 2, about 2.5, about 3, about 3.5, about 4, about 4.5, about 5, about 5.5, about 6, about 6.5, about 7, about 7.5, about 8, about 8.5, about 9, about 9.5, and about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

MONOALCOHOUS)

The cosmetic compositions include one or more monoalcohols, such as those having from 2 to 6 carbon atom. The amount of monoalcohols present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 20 to about 90 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may have monoalcohol(s) in an amount of about 20 to about 90 wt.%, about 20 to about 85 wt.%, about 20 to about 70 wt.%, about 20 to about 65 wt.%, about 20 to about 60 wt.%, about 20 to about 55 wt.%; about 20 to about 50 wt.%, about 20 to about 45 wt.% and about 20 to about 40 wt.% including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The one or more monoalcohols of the cosmetic composition may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof. In one instance, the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.

The cosmetic composition may be formulated to have an amount of polyol(s) to an amount of monoalcohol(s) in a ratio (i.e. total polyols: total monoalcohols) of 1 :18 to 10:4, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is greater than the total amount of monoalcohol(s). In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is less than the total amount of monoalcohol(s). In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is formulated such that the total amount of polyol(s) is equal to the total amount of monoalcohol(s).

CATIONIC SURFACTANT(S)

The hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic surfactant(s) selected from at least one cationic surfactant, including its salts, of the general formula (I), at least one fatty amine, and mixtures thereof; wherein the at least one cationic surfactant, including its salts, of the general formula (I) is as follows:

wherein Ri and R4, may independently be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals comprising from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, or an alkoxy, alkoxycarbonylalkyl, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, alkylamidoalkyl, hydroxyalkyl, aromatic, aryl or alkylaryl radical comprising from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, with at least one radical among Ri, R2, R3 and R4 denoting a radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atom; and X^" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl- sulfonates; and wherein the at least one fatty amine is selected from C12-C22 alkyl amines, C12-C22 alkoxy amines, C12-C22 alkyl amido amines, C12-C22 alkoxy amido amines, and mixtures thereof, typically in an amount ranging from about 4 to about 10 wt.%, preferably 6 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition may be formulated such that the one or more cationic surfactants are associated with the same or different balancing anionic ions. For example, at least one or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a chloride ion and/or at least one of the one or more cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a sulfate ion. Additionally, or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may be formulated such that two of the cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts having a chloride ion, or one of the cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a chloride ion and one of the cationic surfactants is a quaternary ammonium salt having a sulfate ion.

The cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.

Suitable examples of the cationic surfactants chosen from quaternary ammonium salts are cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, and tricetylmonium chloride.

Additional, non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphen bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCI, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1 , procainehydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts, those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.

Additionally and/or alternatively, the cationic surfactants may be chosen from the quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure according to the general formula provided below:

in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;

Examples of quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the following general formula:

in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Risa, R18, R19, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75), The at least one fatty amine are chosen from cationic/cationizable surfactants. Suitable examples of the at least one fatty amines are oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, and arachidamidoethyidimethylamine.

The at least one fatty amine may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain. For example, quaternary ammonium salts, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those corresponding to the following general formula:

in which the groups Rs to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

Examples of cationic/cationizable surfactants, which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the general formula provided below:

R4-A-R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from:

O

1 c · o and .

and B is selected from: i¾ i

— N

R_? wherein Fte and Rz are the same or different and are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms,

¾

— N R X R®

Re and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms. In some instances, R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, R6 to Rio are same as above.

Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl amine, lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine, lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl buylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearamidopropyl amine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stea ramidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyldibutylamine, stearamidopropyl butylami ne, stearamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl amine, behenamidopropyl methylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dibutylamine, behenamidopropyl butylamine, behenamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilauramidopropyl methylamine, dilauramidopropyl buylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl tri hydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropyl amine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl buylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl amine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyl diethylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl buylamine, myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearoylpropyl amine, stearoylpropyl methylamine, stearoylpropyl diethylamine, stearoylpropyl dibutylamine, stearoylpropyl butylamine, stearoylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl amine, behenylpropyl methylamine, behenylpropyl diethylamine, behenylpropyl dibutylamine, behenylpropyl butylamine, behenylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl methylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl ethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitylpropyl propylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauroylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropyl buylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distearylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl tri hydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylpropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyldihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

Cationizable surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines, preferably, fatty dialkylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereofare useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

In an embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure contain at least two cationic surfactants chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and behentrimonium chloride and at least one fatty amine chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, and arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention includes three or more cationic surfactants comprising cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

FATTY COMPOUNDS COMPRISING FATTY ALCOHOUS) AND FATTY ACID(S)

A “fatty compound" is generally an organic compound that is not soluble in water at normal temperature (25°C.) and at atmospheric pressure (750 mmHg) (solubility below 10%). In some instances, the solubility in water may be below 5%, below 1%, or below 0.1%). Moreover, fatty compounds are generally soluble in one or more organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention includes one or more fatty compounds comprising:

(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and

(ii) one or more fatty acids.

The total amount of fatty compounds comprising fatty alcohols and fatty acids range from about 4 to about 18 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of fatty compounds present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 4 to about 18 wt.%, about 4 to about 17 wt.%, about 5 to about 18 wt.%, about 5 to about 17 wt.%; about 6 to about 18 wt.%, or about 6 to about 17 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The amount of fatty alcohols present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 2 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may have fatty alcohol(s) in an amount of about 2 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 to about 9 wt.%, about 2.5 to about 8.5 wt.%, about 3 to about 8 wt.%, about 3.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 4 to about 7.5 wt.%; about 4.5 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 5 to about 7 wt.%, about 4 to about 10 wt.%, about 4.5 to about 9.5 wt.%, about 5 to about 9 wt.%, about 5.5 to about 8.5wt.%; or about 6 to about 8 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The amount of fatty acids present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may have fatty acids in an amount of about 0.5 to about 9 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 7 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 6.5 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 6.0 wt.%; about 1 .5 to about 5 wt.%, about 2 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 2 to about 4 wt.%, about 2.5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 2.5 to about 3.5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols:total fatty acids) in the cosmetic composition is from about 10:1 to about 1 :1 , or from about 8:1 to about 1 .5;1 , or from about 6:1 to about 1 .8:1 , or from about 4:1 to about 2;1 , or from about 3:1 to about 2:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols:total fatty acids) in the cosmetic composition is at about 10:1 , 9:1 , 8:1 , 7:1 , 6;1 , 5:1 , 4;1 , 4.5:1 , 4.2:1 , 4:1 , 3.8:1 , 3.5:1 , 3.2:1 , 3:1 , 2.8:1 , 2.5:1 , or about 2.3:1.

The one or more fatty alcohols may be chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The one or more fatty acids may be chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.

More generally, the fatty alcohols may be liquid at 25°C., 1 atm, or may even be solid, or may be mixtures of liquid and solid fatty alcohols. They may even be glycerolated and/or oxyalkylenated, and may include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They may be saturated or unsaturated. For example, the fatty alcohols may be chosen from those having from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cholesterol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty alcohols are those selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Saturated liquid fatty alcohols may be branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, but are preferably acyclic. Non-limiting examples of liquid saturated fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and 2-hexyldecanol.

Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols may include in their structure at least one double or triple bond and, in some instances, one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or non-conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic or non aromatic ring but they are preferably acyclic. Among liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol can be cited. Solid fatty alcohols include linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetylstearyl alcohol.

Non-limiting examples of high melting point fatty compounds include fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 38°C), cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56°C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59°C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71 °C), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkyl chain is cetyl, stearyl or behenyl group. In the present application, more preferred fatty alcohols are myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

ESTER(S)

The esters in the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are typically ester oils chosen from one or more diester, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of liquid esters include fatty esters from a C6-C32 fatty acid and/or a C6-C32 fatty alcohol, and are liquid at 25°C., 1 atm. These esters may be liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C25 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In some cases, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched. Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

In some cases, it is particularly useful to include cetyl esters in the hair conditioning compositions. Cetyl Esters is a mixture of the following esters of saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols: cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, and stearyl stearate.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used. Mention may be made in particular of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; triisopropyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

Non-limiting liquid esters (ester oils) or liquid fatty esters that may be mentioned include, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil.

The esters of the present disclosure may also further comprise solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters including solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C25 fatty alcohols. Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

In an embodiment, the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more diesters, in particular, diester oils, chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof.

The one or more triglycerides may be chosen from natural triglycerides (e.g., having a plant origin) or synthetic triglycerides. The triglycerides may have 6 to 30 carbon atoms — such as, for instance, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof. Additionally and/or alternatively, the triglycerides may be chosen from caprylic/capric/isostearic/adipictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/linoleictriglycerides, caprylic/caprictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/stearictriglycerides, glyceryltrilaurate/stearate, glyceryldi/tripalmitostearate, glyceryldi/tritristearate, caprylictriglyceride, caprylic/capric/laurictriglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

The one or more diesters are typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The amount of diesters present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 0.05 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2.5 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, or about 0.5 to about 1 .5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, the amount of diesters present in the cosmetic composition is at about 0.05. 0.1 , 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.75, 1 , 1 .25,

1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition

The one or more triglycerides are typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The amount of triglycerides present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 13 wt.%, about 1 to about 13 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 12 wt.%, about 2 to about 12 wt.%; about 3 to about 12 wt.%, about 4 to about

12 wt.%, about 5 to about 12 wt.%, about 6 to about 12 wt.%, about 7 to about 12 wt.%, or about 8 to about 10 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, the amount of triglycerides present in the cosmetic composition is at about 1 , 1 ,5, 2, 2,5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8,

8.5, 9, 9.5, or 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition

In an embodiment, the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more triglycerides comprising caprylic/capric triglyceride.

In an embodiment, the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more diesters, in particular, diester oils, and one or more triglycerides. In one embodiment, the one or more diesters include di- C12-

13 alkyl malate, and the one or more triglycerides include caprylic/capric triglyceride. NON-SILICONE FATTY COMPOUNDS OTHER THAN FATTY ALCOHOUS) AND

FATTY ACID(S)

The cosmetic compositions may include non-silicone fatty compounds other than the fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) described above. The amount of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) that may be present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 1 to about 40 wt.%, about 1 to about 35 wt.%, about 1 to about 30 wt.%, about 1 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%; about 2 to about 40 wt.%, about 2 to about 35 wt.%, about 2 to about 30 wt.%, about 2 to about 25 wt.%, about 2 to about 20 wt.%, about 2 to about 15 wt.%, about 2 to about 10 wt.%, or about 2 to about 5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) are mineral oil (paraffins and petroleum ether), fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (such as polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol esters of fatty acids or esters of neopentyl glycol and fatty acids or polyglycerol/glycerol esters of fatty acids or glycol diesters or diesters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids or esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, esters of short chain alcohols and fatty acids), waxes, lanolin, and a mixture thereof.

Additional and/or alternative fatty alcohol derivatives include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and a mixture thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcochol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG8-ceteth-1 , and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbons include linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C16 alkanes; hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. Additionally, the linear or branched hydrocarbons may be composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms of mineral, plant, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and squalane.

The other fatty compounds may be chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, and from non-liquid fatty ethers such as dicetyl ether and distearyl ether.

Non-limiting examples of waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides. Non-limiting examples of ceramides include N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmityldihydrosphingosine, N-stearyldihydrosphingosine or N- behenyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.

The non-silicone fatty compounds other than the fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) may be chosen from fatty acid derivatives including, but not limited to, ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture thereof.

SILICONE(S)

The cosmetic composition includes one or more silicone(s) typically in an amount ranging from about 1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of silicone(s) present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%; about 1 to about 7.5 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, the amount of silicone(s) present in the cosmetic composition is from about 1 , 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.25, 4.5, 4.75, 5, 5.25, 5.5, 5.75, 6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.25, 7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5, 9.75, 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine-functionalized silicones ( e.g ., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, etc.

The cosmetic composition may include, in some instances, one or more silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof. For example, the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols. The copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone, and a mixture thereof. The silicone(s) may, optionally, include or be chosen from a siloxane with a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol containing a tertiary amine group, such as a methacrylic acid ester of diethylamine.

In some cases, the silicones, optionally, include or are chosen from siloxanes having an organo functional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is different than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organofunctional radical such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 25,25-Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone.

In some cases, the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones. For example, the compositions include less than about 3 wt.%, 2 wt.%, 1 wt.%, 0.5 wt.%, 0.4 wt.% 0.3 wt.% 0.2 wt.%, or 0.1 wt.% of silicones (e.g., no silicones).

WATER

The cosmetic composition typically includes 10 wt.% or less of water. For example, the amount of water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is typically 10 wt.%, 10 wt.% or less, 9 wt.% or less, 8 wt.% or less, 7 wt.% or less, 6 wt.% or less, 5 wt.% or less, 4 wt.% or less, 3 wt.% or less, 2 wt.% or less, 1 wt.% or less, or 0.5 wt.% or less, based on the total was of the cosmetic composition. In some instances, the water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is added to the composition (“added water”). In some instances, the water present in the cosmetic composition prior to combination with extraneous water is not “added water,” i.e. , it is present in the cosmetic composition as part of a raw material that is included in the cosmetic composition. Although the cosmetic composition may include water prior to the combination of extraneous water, in some embodiments the cosmetic composition is anhydrous or substantially anhydrous. pH ADJUSTER(S)

The cosmetic composition may include one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to decrease the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of suitable acids for decreasing the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like. The cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to increase the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases that are suitable for adjusting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art.

The cosmetic composition may, desirably, have a pH ranging from about from about 5.5 to about 7, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.

In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may have a pH of less than 7. For example, the cosmetic composition may have a pH of from about 5.5 to about 6.8, or about 5.5 to about 6.8, or about 5.5 to about 6.6, or about 5.5 to about 6.6, or about 5.5 to about 6.5, or about 5.5 to about 6.5, or about 5.5 to about 6.5, or about 5.5 to about 6.5, or about 6 to about 6.5, or about 6.2 to about 6.5, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.

The amount of the pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and/or product. For example, the total amount of the pH adjuster may range from about 0.05 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. In some instances, the total amount of pH adjuster is from about 0.05 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or about 0.12 to about 5 wt.%, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure may be incorporated into a kit. For example, the kits may include at least one cosmetic composition according to the instant disclosure and one or more additional compositions, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, etc. The various compositions are separately contained in the kits. In some instances, the kits include one or more cosmetic compositions according the instant disclosure, a shampoo, a conditioner a mask, and/or other hair treatment product, all of which are separately contained. Instructions, mixing components, brushes, gloves, measuring tools, etc., may also optionally be included in the kits.

The compositions may be packaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, a ready-to-use container. Non-limiting examples of useful packaging include tubes, jars, caps, unit dose packages, and bottles, including squeezable tubes, bottles, and sprayable containers. The packaging may be configured so that it can be attached to a wall, such as a wall in a bathroom, including walls of a shower or tub. For example, the packaging can be a container that is configured to attach to a wall, such that when pressure is applied to the container, the composition contained therein is expelled from one or more openings in the container. In some cases, the packaging is a tube, such as a tube with two compartments, or dual tubes, each forming a separate compartment. Each compartment may include a different composition. For example, one tube or compartment may include a cosmetic composition according to the instant disclosure, and the other tube may include a composition to be used with the cosmetic composition, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, an all-in-one shampoo/conditioner (i.e., a conditioning shampoo; also referred to as a “co-wash”) mask or other hair treatment products.

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from those such as perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, actives, nonionic surfactants, vitamins, fillers, pigments and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. METHODS OF TREATING HAIR

Methods of treating hair according to the disclosure may vary but typically include applying a cosmetic composition as disclosed herein, allowing the cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for a sufficient amount of time, and rinsing the cosmetic compositions from the hair. The cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair in a sequence with other compositions. For example, the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair before shampooing the hair, after shampooing the hair, before conditioning the hair, and/or after conditioning the hair, etc. The compositions, however, are not required to be used in a sequence.

The methods may include applying an amount of the cosmetic composition onto the hair. The hair may already be wet or damp with extraneous water or extraneous water can be included after the cosmetic composition has already been applied to the hair. The cosmetic composition and the extraneous water may optionally be mixed together on the hair to facilitate formation of an opaque emulsion having an increased viscosity. Alternatively, the cosmetic composition and extraneous water may be combined, and optionally mixed, prior to application to the hair. For example, the cosmetic composition may be combined in a container, bowl, packaging, bottle, etc., and subsequently applied to the hair after formation of the opaque emulsion.

In some instances, the methods include forming the opaque emulsion on the hands and subsequently applying the opaque emulsion to the hair. In other instances, the methods include forming an opaque emulsion directly on the hair.

The cosmetic compositions and the emulsions formed by combination with water are useful for conditioning and/or managing the hair. The cosmetic compositions and the emulsions formed by combination of water can be applied to the wet or damp hair and may be massaged into the hair, for example, with the hands, and/or spread throughout the hair with a comb or brush. This results in a smoothing and softening of the hair, which reduces frizz, dryness, and unwanted volume.

Another unique aspect of the cosmetic compositions is that they may be used as a leave-on product. The cosmetic compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the cosmetic composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.

In some cases, the cosmetic compositions are used in conjunction with additional hair-treatment compositions in a routine, for example, during an individual’s normal showering/bathing routine. The cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair individually or may be combined with one or more additional compositions. Combining the compositions with one or more additional compositions ( e.g ., a shampoo, a conditioner, a rinse, etc.) can be useful for eliminating multiple steps from a routine. For instance, the cosmetic composition may be mixed with a shampoo (or conditioner) prior to application to the hair. In this case, the mixture of the shampoo (or conditioner) and the cosmetic composition are simultaneously applied to the hair during the cleansing or conditioning process and simultaneously rinsed from the hair. Alternatively, the cosmetic composition may be layered on top of (or lathered into) hair to which a shampoo (or conditioner) has already been applied or vice versa. In this case, the composition may be applied to the hair and without rinsing it from the hair, a shampoo (or conditioner) is then subsequently applied to the hair. Alternatively, the shampoo (or conditioner) may be first applied to the hair and without rinsing the shampoo (or conditioner) from the hair, the cosmetic composition is also applied to the hair.

When used in conjunction with a shampoo and/or a conditioner, the cosmetic composition may be mixed or used with the shampoo and/or conditioner in a ratio of about 1 :10 to about 10:1 , about 1 :5 to about 5:1 , about 1 :3 to about 3:1 , about 1 :2 to about 2:1 , about 1 :1 to about 4:1 , about 1 :1 to about 3:1 , or about 1 :1 to about 2:1 (cosmetic composition of the instant disclosure : shampoo/conditioner, etc.).

The cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure may be allowed to remain on the hair for a minimum amount of time before being rinsed from the hair, but it is not necessary to allow the cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for an extended period of time. Conveniently, the cosmetic compositions can be applied and allowed to remain on the hair for a period of time that is typical for regular shampooing and/or conditioning. For example, the cosmetic composition (whether combined with another hair-treatment composition such as a shampoo or conditioner) may be applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair for a few seconds (1 , 2, 3, or 5 seconds) up to about 1 , about 2, about 5, about 10, about 15, about 20, about 25, or about 30 minutes.

When the cosmetic composition is not being mixed with another composition prior to application to the hair, the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair immediately after or before the hair is treated with another composition (e.g., a shampoo and/or a conditioner). For example, the hair-treatment compositions may be applied to the hair within about a few seconds or 1 , 2, 5, 10, or 20 minutes before or after a shampoo and/or a conditioner is applied to the hair.

The cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are unique in their ability to provide hair with improved manageability, shape/style, long-lasting style and frizz control, curl definition, curl retention, and smoothness. Accordingly, the instant disclosure relates to methods for treating hair, for example, for improving the manageability of hair, for imparting lasting style and frizz control, and for imparting smoothness. More specifically, the cosmetic compositions may be used in methods for conditioning the hair, providing curl definition to the hair, providing frizz control to the hair, improving ease of combability and detangling, and providing smoothness.

EMBODIMENTS

Non-limiting suitable examples of the hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises: a) about 5 to about 45 wt.% of one or more polyols selected from:

(i) one or more glycols; and

(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; b) about 20 to about 50 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols:total monoalcohols) is from about 6:1 to about 1 :6; and c) about 4 to about 8 wt.% of one or more cationic surfactants, selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof; d) about 4 to about 15 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:

(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and

(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols: total fatty acids) is from about 8:1 to about 1 .5:1 ; e) about 8 to about 12 wt.% of one or more esters; f) about 1 to about 8 wt.% of one or more silicones; g) about 0.095 to about 2 wt.% of one or more chelant derived selected from glutamic acid, diacetic acid, and a mixture thereof; and h) about 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein the composition is a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity of 500 mPa.S to about 4000 mPa.S; and wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.

- optionally, additional ingredients such as suitable pH adjuster and/or fragrance.

A further example of hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: a) about 5 to about 40 wt.% of one or more polyols selected from propylene glycol, glycerin and a mixture thereof; b) about 20 to about 45 wt.% of a monoalcohol selected from ethanol; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols (total polyols:total monoalcohols) is from about 5:1 to about 1 :5; and c) about 4 to about 6 wt.% of one or more cationic surfactants, including cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine; d) about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds selected from cetyl alcohol, myristic or a mixture thereof: wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (total fatty alcohols: total fatty acids) is from about 6:1 to about 1.8:1 ; e) about 8 to about 10 wt.% of one or more di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, or a mixture thereof; f) about 1 to about 7 wt.% of PEG-12 dimethicone; g) about 0.095 to about 1.5 wt.% of one or more chelant derived selected from glutamic acid, diacetic acid, and a mixture thereof; and h) about 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein the composition is a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of 1 mPa.S to about 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity of 500 mPa.S to about 4000 mPa.S; and wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition;

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE HAIR CARE COSMETIC COMPOSITION

As a non-limiting example of process for manufacturing the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises the following steps:

(a) adding the cationic surfactants, neutralizer (if required), fatty alcohols, acids and chelant and homogenizing;

(b) combining step (a) with the mixture of solvents, esters and liquid cationic surfactants (ensuring that all ingredients are homogenized);

(c) adding the remaining raw materials into the mixture in step (b) and continuing to homogenize;

(d) measuring the pH, density and viscosity of step (c) to ensure that the formula achieved all control parameters.

METHOD OF PREVENTING OR MINIMIZING THE YELLOWING OF HAIR CARE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

In a further embodiment, the present invention is related to a method of preventing or minimizing the yellowing of hair care cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure capable of forming an emulsion in situ upon combination with extraneous water, wherein the composition contains a fragrance and is exposed to metals, comprising the step of incorporating a chelant derived from glutamic acid and/or diacetic acid into said composition.

METHOD OF TREATING HAIR

In another further embodiment, the invention is related to a method of treating hair which comprises the following steps:

- applying a hair care cosmetic composition to wet or damp hair, wherein the composition comprises:

(a) about 5 to about 50 wt.% of one or more polyols selected from:

(i) one or more glycols; and

(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; b) about 20 to about 90 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols is from 1 :18 to 10:4; and c) about 4 to about 10 wt.% of one or more cationic surfactants; d) about 4 to about 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:

(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and

(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids (is from 10:1 to

1 :1 ; e) about 8 to about 15 wt.% of one or more esters; f) about 1 to 1 about 0 wt.% of one or more silicones; g) about 0.05 to about 2 wt.% of one or more chelants derived selected from glutamic acid, diacetic acid, and a mixture thereof; and h) about 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition forms an emulsion in situ in contact with water, and optionally rinsing the emulsion from the hair.

The formed emulsion may be mixed with a shampoo prior to application to hair; or layered onto hair with a shampoo; or applied to the hair after a shampoo has been rinsed from the hair; or layered onto hair with a conditioner; or mixed with a conditioner prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a conditioner has been rinsed from the hair; or mixed with a leave-in hair treatment prior to application to hair; or mixed with a mask composition prior to application to hair; or applied to the hair after a mask composition has been applied to.

The method of treating the hair provides a conditioned the hair; and/or curl definition to the hair; and/or frizz control to the hair; and/or shine to hair; and/or repaired hair or reduces damaged feel on hair; and/or improved ease of combability and detangling; and/or improved the manageability of hair.

EXAMPLES

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.

Examples 1 to 7

A suitable composition according to the state of the art are Examples 1 , 2 and 7 and a suitable composition according to the present invention are Examples 3 to 6, as follows: Table 1 - Compositions of the state of the art and of the present invention

Example 8

In order to verify the stability and metal interaction of the hair care cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 7, iron nails (7 cm) were submerged into such compositions (80 ml each) for 23 hours. After this period, the nails were removed and the visual aspect of the formulas were evaluated.

The conclusion was that Examples 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 do not turned to yellow while Examples 1 and 7 turned to yellow.

Example 9

A stability test with cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 4 were carried out, wherein such formulas were subjected to temperatures of 4 ^QC, room temperature, 37 ^QC and 45 ^QC. The formulas were analyzed at the same moment in one month and two months later.

It was observed that while the hair cosmetic composition of Example 4 became visibly slightly yellowish (or a slight tinge of yellow which was still acceptable and consumers did not object to), the color of the cosmetic composition according to Ex. 1 turned into a visibly strong yellow color (which was not acceptable).

Example 10

A consumer quantitative test was carried with 129 consumers testing Example 3 and 124 consumers testing a comparative formula of the state of the art For this purpose, some consumers applied the product first on wet hands and some consumers applied product directly on wet hair.

Regarding the results, Example 3 achieved a superior overall liking and superior scores regarding rinse, fragrance and texture when compared to the comparative formula of the state of the art. These attributes are mostly related to experience sample A few of the consumers perceived crystallization in the test compositions but they still considered the test compositions to be acceptable. Consumers perceived that Example 3 repaired deeply, provided instantly more soft, made hair shiny and easy to detangle and prevented hair from being brittle.

For most of the attributes, compared to the comparative formula of the state of the art, the quantitative test showed Example 3 to be on parity. These results indicate that the inventive formulation performed just as well as the comparative formula of the state of the art. The consumers also gave a rating of positive overall liking for Example 3.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS

1. A hair care cosmetic composition, comprising: a) 5 to 50 wt.% of one or more polyols selected from:

(i) one or more glycols; and

(ii) one or more trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; b) 20 to 90 wt.% of one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohols is from 1 :18 to 10:4; and c) 4 to 10 wt.% of one or more cationic surfactants; d) 4 to 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:

(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and

(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids is from 10:1 to 1 :1 ; e) 8 to 15 wt.% of one or more esters; f) 1 to 10 wt.% of one or more silicones; g) 0.05 to 2 wt.% of one or more chelants selected from glutamic acid, diacetic acid, and a mixture thereof; and h) 10 wt.% or less of water. wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.

2. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the composition is a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of 1 mPa.S to 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity of 500 mPa.S to 4000 mPa.S.

3. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the glycols are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 2,2- propanediol, butanediols, hexanediols, pentanediols, octanediols, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

4. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the trihydric alcohols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms are chosen from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, butanetriols, pentanetriols, and mixtures thereof.

5. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the glycols are present in an amount of from 2.5 to 49 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the trihydric alcohols are present in an amount of from 1 to 2.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more monoalcohols having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms are chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and mixtures thereof.

8. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the cationic surfactants are selected from at least one cationic surfactant, including its salts, is of the general formula (I), at least one fatty amine and mixtures thereof; wherein the at least one cationic surfactant, including its salts, of the general formula (I) is as follows:

wherein Ri and R4, may independently be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals comprising from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, or an alkoxy, alkoxycarbonylalkyl, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, alkylamidoalkyl, hydroxyalkyl, aromatic, aryl or alkylaryl radical comprising from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, with at least one radical among Ri, R2, R3 and R4 denoting a radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atom; and X^" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl- sulfonates; and wherein the at least one fatty amine is selected from C12-C22 alkyl amines, C12-C22 alkoxy amines, C12-C22 alkyl amido amines, C12-C22 alkoxy amido amines, and mixtures thereof.

9. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more fatty alcohols are selected from decyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

10. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more esters are selected from caprylic/capric triglyceride, di-Ci2-i3 alkyl malate and a mixture thereof.

11 . The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more silicones are selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof.

12. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the chelant is chosen from tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

13. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the composition comprises fragrance.

14. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein a lamellar phase is formed upon the combination of the composition with extraneous water.

15. A hair care cosmetic composition, comprising: a) 5 to 40 wt.% of propylene glycol, glycerin or a mixture thereof; b) 20 to 70 wt.% of ethanol; wherein the weight ratio of polyols to monoalcohol (total polyols:total monoalcohols) is from 5:1 to 1 :5; and c) 4 to 6 wt.% of cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or a mixture thereof; d) 4 to 18 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds comprising:

(i) one or more fatty alcohols chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(ii) one or more fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof: wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids is from 6:1 to 1 .8:1 ; e) 9 to 12 wt.% of one or more esters; f) 1 to 7 wt.% of one or more dimethicone copolyols; g) 0.09 to 2 wt.% tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; and h) 10 wt.% or less of water; wherein the composition is a solubilized, transparent composition having a viscosity of 1 mPa.S to 40 mPa.S at 25°C until combined with extraneous water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque emulsion in situ, the opaque emulsion having a viscosity of 500 mPa.S to 4000 mPa.S; and wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.

16. The hair care cosmetic composition of claim 15, wherein a lamellar phase emulsion is formed upon the combination of the composition with extraneous water.

17. A method of treating or caring for hair, the method comprising:

- applying a cosmetic composition to wet or damp hair, the composition comprising: a) 5 to 50 wt.% of one or more polyols selected from:

(i) one or more glycols; and

(i) one or more fatty alcohols, and

(ii) one or more fatty acids; wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohols to fatty acids is from 10:1 to 1 :1 ; e) 8 to 15 wt.% of one or more esters; f) 1 to 10 wt.% of one or more silicones; g) 0.05 to 2 wt.% of one or more chelants derived selected from glutamic acid, diacetic acid, and a mixture thereof; and h) 10 wt.% or less of water. wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition;

- forming an emulsion in situ, and

- optionally rinsing the emulsion from the hair.

18. The method of claim 17, wherein the cosmetic composition is: mixed with a shampoo prior to application to hair; or layered onto hair with a shampoo; or applied to hair after a shampoo has been rinsed from the hair; or layered onto hair with a conditioner; or mixed with a conditioner prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a conditioner has been rinsed from the hair; or mixed with a leave-in hair treatment prior to application to hair; or mixed with a mask composition prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a mask composition has been applied to.

19. The method of claim 17, wherein the method: conditions the hair; and/or provides curl definition to the hair; and/or provides frizz control to the hair; and/or provides shine to hair; and/or repairs hair or reduces damaged feel on hair; and/or improves ease of combability and detangling; and/or improves the manageability of hair.

20. A method of preventing or minimizing the yellowing of hair care cosmetic compositions capable of forming an emulsion in situ upon combination with extraneous water, wherein the composition contains a fragrance and is exposed to metals, comprising the step of incorporating a chelant derived from glutamic acid and/or diacetic acid into said composition.