WO2018119500A1

WO2018119500A1 - Viscoelastic cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: WO2018119500A1
Application number: PCT/BR2016/050363
Authority: WO
Inventors: Juliana Dias Gomes DE BRAGANÇA; Leandro Valeriano DE CARVALHO
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2016-12-29
Filing date: 2016-12-29
Publication date: 2018-07-05
Also published as: BR112019010335A2

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that exhibit unique viscoelastic foaming properties and are particular useful as cleansers. Methods for making and using the viscoelastic compositions are also described. The compositions typically include: (a) water; (b) one or more surfactants; (c) one or more amino silicones; (d) one or more cationic conditioning agents; (e) one or more fatty dimethylamines; and (f) one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids. In some instances, one or more polyalkylene glycols can be included. The compositions are stable, easily foam, and provide cleansing and conditioning properties.

Description

VISCOELASTIC COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

FIELD OF THE DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to viscoelastic cosmetic compositions. The compositions exhibit unique viscoelastic foaming properties and are particularly useful as cleansing and shaving compositions. Methods for making and using the viscloelastic compositions are also described.

BACKGROUND

Surfactants are widely used in aqueous based personal care, household, and industrial products. They are typically used as wetting agents, detergents, and emulsifiers. In personal care cleansing products (e.g., shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, liquid hand soaps, etc.) the surfactant is often the most important component because it provides many of the cleansing attributes of the composition.

Although in principle any surfactant class {e.g., cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric) is suitable in cleansing or cleaning applications, in practice most personal care cleansers and household cleaning products are formulated with anionic surfactants or with a combination of an anionic surfactant as the primary detersive agent with one or more secondary surfactants selected from the other surfactant classes. Anionic surfactants are often used as detersive agents in cleansers and cleaning products because of their excellent cleaning and foaming properties. From the consumer's perspective, the amount and stability of the foam directly relates to the perceived cleaning efficiency of the composition. Generally speaking, the larger the volume of foam produced and the more stable the foam, the more efficient is the perceived cleaning action of the composition. This presents a potential problem in low-surfactant formulations, as foam volume tends to decrease with decreasing surfactant concentration.

Anionic surfactants, especially sulfate-based surfactants, are popular because of their effectiveness in cleansing. Nonetheless, over-use of these surfactants can cause needless drying to the face and scalp, and contribute to color fading and drying of hair. Cationic conditioning agents can provide conditioning benefits to the hair, which can compensate for the drying caused by anionic surfactants. Nonetheless, it is difficult to incorporate cationic conditioning agents into cleansing compositions comprising anionic surfactants. The cationic conditioning agents have a tendency to interact with the anionic surfactants to form water- insoluble complexes that prevent the respective components from functioning properly, and disrupt the stability of the compositions.

SUMMARY OF THE DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to viscoelastic compositions for use as cosmetics. The compositions exhibit unique viscoelastic foaming properties and are particularly useful as cleansing and shaving compositions. Viscoelasticity is the property of materials that exhibit both viscous and elastic characteristics when undergoing deformation. Viscous materials resist shear flow and strain linearly with time when a stress is applied. Elastic materials strain when stretched and quickly return to their original state once the stress is removed. Viscoelastic materials have elements of both of these properties and, as such, exhibit time-dependent strain. Due to their viscoelastic properties, the compositions of the instant disclosure exhibit a unique "memory foam-like" behavior that consumers find especially distinctive.

The constituents of the compositions are also unique because fatty dialkylamine compounds (such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) are combined with anionic surfactants (such as anionic sulfate surfactants). Fatty dialkylamine compounds are not typically combined with anionic surfactants because they can negatively interact with one another to form a water-insoluble complex. It was discovered, however, that by combining the fatty dialkylamine compounds with one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids, the fatty dialkylamine compounds become "neutralized," and can successfully be combined with anionic surfactants to form a stable composition having both cleansing and foaming properties. After "neutralization," the fatty dialkylamine compounds exhibit a cationic charge and therefore have properties similar to a cationic surfactant. This allows the fatty dialkylamine compounds to provide conditioning and discipline benefits to the hair.

The compositions of the instant disclosure typically include: (a) water; (b) one or more surfactants; (c) one or more amino silicones; (d) one or more cationic conditioning agents; (e) one or more fatty dialkylamines; and (f) one or more non- polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids. With respect to the one or more surfactants, at least one anionic surfactant is typically included. One or more amphoteric surfactants are also useful in the compositions and may be combined with one or more anionic surfactants. For example, betaine surfactants are sometimes used and may be combined with one or more sulfate surfactants. Many fatty dialkylamines may be used in the compositions. In some cases, the fatty dialkylamines may be fatty dimethylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof. Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds and their salts. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, etc. In some cases the compositions of the instant disclosure include at least stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids are used to "neutralize" the fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non- limiting examples include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. In particular, tartaric acid is useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Polyalkylene glycols can optionally be incorporated into the compositions of the instant disclosure. Examples of polyalkylene glycols include polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and polypropylene glycols (PPGs). In some cases, appropriate polyalkylene glycols are solid (or semi-solid) at 25°C. The optional addition of polyalkylene glycols does not materially influence the viscolastic properties of the compositions. Nonetheless, polyalkylene glycols can be used as an emollient and aqueous thicker. In some cases, the inclusion of polyalkylene glycols can be used to increase the firmness of the foam.

The compositions may be formulated into a variety of cosmetic compositions in which a creamy, foamed, viscoelastic texture is desired. For example, due to the use of certain anionic surfactants, the compositions are well suited for cleansing. Thus, the compositions may be cleansing compositions for the body, face, and/or hair. In particular, the instant disclosure relates to shampoo compositions. The addition of cationic conditioning agents provides conditioning benefits to the hair, which many consumers find desirable. The cleansing compositions may be applied to the body or hair and subsequently rinsed from the body or hair.

Shampoos according to the instant disclosure can be repeatedly used to cleanse hair without forming build-up on the hair. Instrumental testing revealed that after shampooing hair swatches multiple times (3 times), no build up on the hair swatches was detected. Furthermore, hair treated with the compositions was smooth to the touch, was supple, was easily untangles with the hands, and exhibited especially good manageability. These benefits are especially useful for individuals with curly hair.

Due to their unique foaming properties, the instant compositions are useful as shaving compositions, e.g., shaving creams, shaving foams, combination shaving and cleansing compositions, etc. Shaving compositions are applied to an area of the body comprising hair and removed from the body together with the hair by a blade, such as a razor, in methods for shaving or removing hair from the body.

DESCRIPTIONS OF THE DRAWINGS

Implementation of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the rheological characteristics of inventive and comparative formulations on a viscoelastric spectrum from 0.1 to 100 Hz at 25.0°C;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the rheological characteristics of inventive and comparative formulations on a flow curve from 0.1 to 1000s^"1 at 25.0°C;

FIG. 3 shows the aeration rate for inventive and comparative formulations;

FIG. 4 shows the firmness of foams generated with inventive and comparative formulations.

It should be understood that the various aspects provided by the figures are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the figures.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

The instant disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions, methods for using the cosmetic compositions, and method of making the cosmetic compositions. The compositions provide good foaming and stability while exhibiting unique viscoelastic properties. The compositions include: (a) water;

(b) one or more surfactants;

(c) one or more amino silicones;

(d) one or more cationic conditioning agents that are different than the one or more surfactants of (b);

(e) one or more fatty dialkylamines; and

(f) one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids.

At least one of the surfactants included in the compositions may be an anionic surfactant. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactant include alkyl alkoxylated sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfate, and mixtures thereof. More specifically, non-limiting examples of anionic surfactant include sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, magnesium lauryl ether sulfate, magnesium lauryl sulfate, calcium lauryl ether sulfate, calcium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, at least one anionic surfactant is combined with one or more amphoteric surfactants. Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants include betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, amphoproprionates, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the compositions include at least one betaine surfactant. Non-limiting examples of betaines include alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), and mixtures thereof. In some cases, cocamidopropyl betaine (coco-betaine) is preferred.

The total amount of the one or more surfactants my vary but is typically about 1 to about 25 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. The total amount of the one or more surfactants may be about 1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 1 wt.% to about 18 wt.%, about 5 wt.% to about 25 wt.%, about 5 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 5 wt.% to about 18 wt.%, about 6 wt.% to about 25 wt.%, about 7 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, or about 8 wt.% to about 18 wt. %.

When a combination of one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants is included in the compositions, the total amount of the anionic surfactants may be about 1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 1 wt.% to about 18 wt.%, or about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. The total amount of the amphoteric surfactants may be about 1 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, about 1 wt.% to about 8 wt.%, about 1 wt.% to about 6 wt.%, about 1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, or about 2 wt.% to about 5 wt.%. In some cases, the total amount of the anionic surfactants is about 5 wt.% to about 20 wt.% and the total amount of the one or more amphoteric surfactants is about 1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%.

Amino silicones provide suppleness to hair and improve the deposition of the cationic conditioning agents. Non-limiting examples of amino silicones include polyether amino silicones, amodimethicone, modified amodimethicones (such as bis- cetearyl amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone), amino gum silicones, and mixtures thereof. More specific non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bisamino PEG/PPG-41 /3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. In some instances, amodimethicone is included in the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure.

The total amount of the one or more amino silicones can vary but typically the total amount of the one or more amino silicones is about 0.1 wt.% to about 25 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more amino silicones may be about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, or about 0.1 wt.% to about 2 wt.%.

Many cationic conditioning agents are known and may be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure. For instance, a monoalkyl quaternary amine, such as stearyltrimonium chloride, soyatrimonium chloride or coco-ethyldimonium ethosulfate may be used. Other suitable cationic conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, behentrimonium chloride, dialkyl quaternary amines, such as dicetyldimonium chloride, dicocodimethyl ammonium chloride or distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride; and polyquaternium compounds, such as Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-22 or Polyquaternium-5.

For example, cationic conditioning agents may be chosen from polyquaterium-10 (also called quaternized polyhydroxyethyl cellulose), cetrimonium chloride (also called cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (also known as docosyl trimethyl ammonium chloride), behentrimonium methosulfate, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, Quaternium-91 , salcare/PQ-37, quaternium-22, quaternium-87, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-1 1 , polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-67, amodimethicone, lauryl betaine, polyacrylate- 1 crosspolymer, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, aminopropyl dimethicone, quaterium-8, and dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate.

In some instances, the cationic conditioning agents are cationic conditioning polymers. Examples of cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include, without limitation, cationic cellulose, cationic proteins, and cationic polymers. The cationic polymers can have a vinyl group backbone of amino and/or quaternary ammonium monomers. Cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, without limitation, dialkylamino alkylmethacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryoloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salts, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkyi aminoalkyi acrylate, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, or quaternized pyrrolidine. Other examples of cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include, without limitation, hydroxypropyltrimonium honey, cocodimonium silk amino acids, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat or silk protein, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium- 1 1 , polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-10, and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

In some instances, preferred cationic conditioning agents include polyquaternium compounds, for example, polyquaternium compounds selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-1 1 , polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-34, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more cationic conditioning agent can vary but is typically about 0.1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more conditioning agents is about 0.1 wt.% to about 12 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, or about 0.1 wt.% to about 1 wt.%.

The compositions include one or more fatty dialkylamines. In some instances, the fatty dialkylamines correspond to the compounds of formula:

RN(R')₂

wherein R is a fatty group containing at least 6 carbon atoms (and up to 30 carbon atoms) In addition, R can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Typically, R is a linear or branched, acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group; and the groups R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the groups R', which may be identical or different, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, the groups R', which may be identical or different are methyl groups. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.

In some instances, the fatty dialkylamines relate to fatty amidoamine compounds corresponding to compounds of the following formula and their salts:

RCONHR"N(R')₂

wherein R is a fatty group containing at least 6 carbon atoms (and up to

30 carbon atoms). In addition, R can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Typically, R is a linear or branched, acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group; R" is a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, and the groups R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the groups R', which may be identical or different, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, the groups R', which may be identical or different are methyl groups. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflowerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine, almondamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicaamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more fatty dialkylamines may vary but is typically about 0.1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of the fatty dialkylamines is about 0.1 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 6 wt.% about 0.1 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, or about 0.5 wt.% to about 2 wt.%.

One or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids are included in the compositions to "neutralize" the fatty dialkylamines so that the fatty dialkylamines can be combined with anionic surfactants to form a stable composition having cleansing and foaming properties. After neutralization with an organic acid, the fatty dialkylamine compounds exhibit a cationic charge and therefore have properties similar to a cationic surfactant. This allows the fatty dialkylamine compounds to provide conditioning and discipline benefits to the hair.

In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tricarboxylic acids comprises at least one di-carboyxlic acid. Non-limiting examples include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6- naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, tartaric acid is preferred, especially when the fatty dialkylamine is a fatty dimethylamine, such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The total amount of the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may vary but is typically in an amount sufficient to neutralize the one or more fatty dialkylamines. For instance, the total amount of the non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be about 0.01 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 8 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 6 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 1 wt.%, about 0.05 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, about 0.05 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, about 0.05 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, about 0.05 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, about 0.05 wt.% to about 1 wt.%, or about 0.1 wt.% to about 1 wt.%, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.

The instant composition may optionally include one or more polyalkylene glycols. Non-limiting examples of polyalkylene glycols include polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and polypropylene glycols (PPGs). A general formula for polyalkylene glycols follows: H(OR)nOH, wherein R is an alkyl group and n>10. A general formula for polyethylene glycols is H(OCH2CH2)nOH, wherein n is >2. A general formula for polypropylene glycol is H(OCH2CH2CH2)nOH, wherein n is >2. Block polymers of polyalkylene glycols, and more particularly, block polymers of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycols may be used. Even more particularly, polyethylene-90 or polyethylene-180 may commonly be used. Polyoxyethylene glycols can also be employed.

Solid polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols and derivatives thereof are solid (or semi-solid) at 25°C and may be used. The solid polyethylene glycols are typically made from at least 16 units of ethylene glycol and have the general formula HO-(CH2-O-CH2-O)_y-H with y being a number of at least 16, e.g. from 20 to 220 or from 40 to 150. The molecular weight (weight average) is above 720, e.g. from 720 to 100000, or from 950 or 1500 or 2000 or 2700 to 30000. Non- limiting examples of solid polyethylene glycols include PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-40, PEG-45, PEG-55, PEG-60, PEG-75, PEG-90 and PEG-100. Suitable trade products are for example Polyglykol 3000 of Clariant with an average molecular weight of 2700 to 3000 or Polyglykol 4000 with an average molecular weight of 3700 to 4500.

The total amount of the one or more polyalkylene glycols in cosmetic compositions may vary but is typically about 0.1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more polyalkylene glycols is about 0.1 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.% to about 3 wt.% about 0.5 wt.% to about 2 wt.% or about 0.5 wt.% to about 1 wt.%. In some cases the total amount of the one or more polyalkylene glycols is less than 3, 2, or 1 .5 wt.%.

Further to the above description, in some cases, the cosmetic compositions include:

(a) about 50 to about 90 wt.%, preferably about 70 to about 90 wt.% water; (b) about 1 to about 25 wt.%, preferably about 5 to about 15 wt.%, of the one or more surfactants, provided that one or more of the surfactants is an anionic surfactant;

(c) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt.% of one or more amino silicones;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt.% of one or more cationic conditioning agents that are different than the one or more surfactants of (b);

(e) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, of one or more fatty dimethylamines; and

(f) about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.05 to about 3 wt.% of one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids.

The one or more anionic surfactants can include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (sodium laureth sulfate), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ammonium laureth sulfate), sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, one more betaine surfactants may be included, for example, one or more betaines selected from the group consisting of alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), and mixtures thereof. In particular, cocamidopropyl betaine (coco-betaine) is preferred.

The one or more fatty amines is preferably one or more fatty amidoamine compounds. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof. In some instances, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is useful.

With respect to the non-polymeric mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids, the above compositions can include one or more of oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, tartaric acid is preferred, especially when the fatty dialkylamine is a fatty dimethylamine, such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Due to their unique foaming properties, the instant compositions are useful as shaving compositions, e.g., shaving creams, shaving foams, combination shaving and cleansing compositions, etc. The compositions may be applied to an area of the body comprising hair and removed from the body together with the hair by a blade, such as a razor, in methods for shaving or removing hair from the body.

In view of the unique properties of the instant compositions, the compositions are particularly well suited for use as a cleansing composition, a shaving cream, a body wash, a face wash, a shampoo, a conditioning shampoo, a hair treatment composition, and a hair conditioning composition.

The disclosure further relates to methods for making the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure. Typically, the methods involve neutralizing one or more fatty dialkylamines with one more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tricarboxylic acids, and then adding this mixture comprising the neutralized fatty dialkylamines to the remaining constituents of the cosmetic composition. One or more cationic conditioning agents may optionally be combined with the combination of the one or more fatty dialkylamines and the one more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids prior to combination with the remaining components of the cosmetic composition. Additionally, the combination comprising the one or more fatty dialkylamines and the one more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be heated prior to combination with the remaining components of the cosmetic composition. For example, the combination may be heated to a temperature of about 40°C to about 75°C, preferably about 50°C to about 70°C, or more preferably about 55°C to about 70°C. Furthermore, if a polyalkylene glycol is used in the composition, it can optionally be added to the combination of the one or more fatty dialkylamines and the one more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tricarboxylic acids, before this combination is added to the other components of the cosmetic composition.

Typically, one or more surfactants, one or more amino silicones, water, and optionally, one or more cationic conditioning agents are mixed separately from the neutralized fatty dialkylamines prior to combination with the neutralized fatty dialkylamines. After mixing with the neutralized fatty dialkylamines, in some instances, one or more surfactants (for example, one or more betaine surfactants) may be added and mixed. Finally, pH adjusters and/or viscosity modifiers may be incorporated into the final composition, as desired.

The compositions may be packaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, a ready-to-use container. Due to the compositions' somewhat thick and gel-like consistency, non-limiting examples of useful packaging include tubes, jars, caps, unit dose packages, and bottles, including squeezable tubes and bottles. The packaging may be configured so that it can be attached to a wall, such as a wall in a bathroom, including walls of a shower or tub. For example, the packaging can be a container that is configured to attach to a wall, such that when pressure is applied to the container, the composition contained therein is expelled from one or more openings in the bottom of the container. This type of packing and configuration is convenient for consumers.

More exhaustive but non-limiting lists of components useful in the cleansing compositions disclosed herein are provided below.

SURFACTANTS

The cosmetic compositions may include one or more surfactants, including amphoteric/zwitterionic, anionic, non-ionic and/or cationic surfactants. Non- limiting examples of surfactants that may be used are provided below.

Anionic Surfactants

Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactant(s) that may be used include alkyi sulfates, alkyi ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfo succinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen especially from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of anionic surfactants include fatty acid soaps such as soap base, sodium laurate or sodium palmitate, alkyl sulfate ester salts having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium lauryl sulfate or potassium lauryl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate ester salts such as polyoxyethylene (POE)-triethanolamine lauryl sulfate or POE-sodium lauryl sulfate, N-acyl sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, fatty acid amide sulfonates having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium N-myristyl- N-methyl taurate, sodium methyl coconut oil fatty acid taurate (also referred to as sodium methyl cocoyl taurate) or sodium methyl lauryl taurate, phosphate ester salts such as POE-sodium oleyl ether phosphate or POE-stearyl ether phosphate, sulfosuccinates such as sodium di(2-ethylhexyl)sulfosuccinate, sodium monolauroyl monoethanolamide polyoxyethylene sulfosuccinate or sodium lauryl polypropylene glycol sulfosuccinate, alkyl benzene sulfonates such as sodium linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate, triethanolamine linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate or linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate, N-acyl glutamates such as monosodium N-lauroyl glutamate, disodium N-stearoyl glutamate or monosodium N-myristyl-L-glutamate, N- acyl glycinates such as potassium N-cocoyl glycinate or sodium N-stearoyl glycinate, fatty acid ester sulfate ester salts having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium hydrogenated coconut oil fatty acid glyceryl sulfate, sulfonated oils such as turkey red oil, POE-alkyl ether carboxylates, POE-alkyl allyl ether carboxylates, .alpha.-olefin sulfonates, fatty acid ester sulfonates having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, secondary alcohol sulfate ester salts, fatty acid alkyloyl amide sulfate ester salts having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, sodium lauroyl ethanolamide succinate, ditriethanolamine N-palmitoyl aspartate and sodium casein.

In particular, the anionic surfactants are selected from sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (sodium laureth sulfate), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ammonium laureth sulfate), sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof. Preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO, (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate (n) EO, (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO, (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 3) or mixtures thereof.

The anionic surfactant is preferably selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarconisate, sodium oleylsuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzol sulfonate and/or triethanolamine dodecylbenzol sulfonate or mixtures thereof, in particular the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate and/or ammonium lauryl ether sulfate.

Amphoteric Surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants useful in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein may be chosen from betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, amphoproprionates, and mixtures thereof. More typically, betaines and amphoproprionates are used, and most typically betaines. Betaines which can be used in the current compositions include those having the formulas below:

CH₃

I

CH₃ CH₂ - CH₂-OH

CH₃

I

R₁₀ -N⁺- (CH₂)_n- S0₃- I

CH₃

I

C - N - (CH₂)_n- N⁺-CH₂COO^"

II I I O H en

wherein

R¹⁰ is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms; and

n is an integer from 1 to 3.

Particularly useful betaines include, for example, coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Typically, the at least one betaine compound is selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and more typically coco betaine.

Hydroxyl sultaines useful in the compositions of the invention include the following

wherein

R is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms. Useful alkylamphoacetates include those having the formula

wherein

R is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms.

useful alkyl amphodiacetates include those having the formula

wherein

R is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms.

The amphoteric surfactants of the present disclosure may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaines, (Cs- C2o)alkylamido (Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (Cs-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products of respective structures (A1 ) and (A2) below:

(A1 ) Ra-CON(Z)CH₂-(CH2)m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH₂COO-) in which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra- COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

(A2) Ra'-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m'-N(B)(B')

in which:

B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH₂- COOZ', CH2CH2-COOH,

or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents -(Chtejz-Y, with z = 1 or 2, and V representing COOH, COOZ', CH2-CHOH-SO3H or

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola-mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa-nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino- 2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably pre-sent in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) in which X' represents a hydrogen atom, mention may be made of compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, under the names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

Other compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiace-tate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroam-phodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodi-propionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate, the sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (A3):

(A3) Ra"-NH-CH(Y")-(CH₂)n-C(0)-NH-(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) in which:

- Ra" represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-

C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- Y" represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z", with Z" representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from

1 to 3.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A3), mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodi-um diethylaminopropylcocoaspartamide, such as the one sold by the company Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci -C6)alkylbetaines, (Cs-

C2o)alkylamphoacetates and (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from (C8-C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido (Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from coco- betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Nonionic Surfactants

Examples of nonionic surfactants include fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, fatty acid alkanolamides, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty Alcohols

The fatty alcohols correspond to linear, branched saturated/un saturated fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 60 carbon atoms and preferably correspond to the formula R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, or from 10 to 50 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more OH groups.

The saturated fatty alcohols may be branched and can be in liquid form.

They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring.

The unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond but usually one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are often 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring.

Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected, for example, from octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohols may be in solid form and may be non- oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols may be constituents of animal or plant waxes.

The solid fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product. One example of such a commercial product is cetearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, commercially available under the trade name of LANETTE-O from the company BASF. Cetyl alcohol may also be commercially available under the tradename of LANETTE 16 from the company BASF.

In some cases, a solid fatty alcohol may be myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof.

Other suitable examples of solid fatty alcohols include branched solid fatty alcohols chosen from 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -octadecanol, 2- tetradecyl-1 -eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1 -octadecanol and 2-hexadecyl-1 -eicosanol, and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the fatty alcohol may be cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol. Accordingly, the fatty alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Alkyl(ether)phosphates

Suitable alkyl(ether)phosphates include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated alkyi phosphate esters and alkyi phosphate esters corresponding to a mono-ester of formula (I) and salts thereof:

RO[CH20]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)_y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH20]w-PO- Formula (I); a di-ester corresponding to formula (II) and salts thereof:

{RO[CH20]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)_y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH20]w}2PO-

(OH)

Formula (II); a tri-ester corresponding to formula (III):

{RO[CH20]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)_y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH20]w}3PO Formula (III);

and combinations thereof, wherein:

R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms;

u, v and w, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 60;

x, y and z, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 13;

R' represents hydrogen, alkyi, the sum of x+y+z being >0. The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. Whereas, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on a macroscopic level they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.

In formulas (I), (II) and (III), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a linear or branched, acyclic Ce-40 alkyi or alkenyl group or a Ci-4o alkyi phenyl group, more particularly a C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-18 alkyl phenyl group, more preferably a C12-18 alkyl group or alkenyl group or a Ce-16 alkyl phenyl group; u, v, w, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from 3 to 17 and most preferably a number from 5 to 15;

x, y, z, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to

13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a number from 0 to 8.

In general, the lower the number of carbon atoms in the R group of the phosphate esters, the more irritating to the skin and the less soluble in water the phosphate ester becomes. In contrast, the higher the number of carbon atoms in the R group, the milder to the skin and the thicker and waxy the resultant product becomes. Accordingly, in some cases, R has from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

In some cases, the alkyl phosphate esters are Cetyl phosphate (Hostaphat CC 100), Stearyl phosphate (Hostaphat CS 120) from Clariant.

In some instances, the alkyl(ether)phosphates are chosen from Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

Alkyl polyglucosides

The alkyl(poly)glucoside (alkylpolyglycoside) is represented especially by the following general formula:

wherein:

- Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

In some cases, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 or from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -6 or 1 - 4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type. In some cases, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1 ,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides are also useful.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 1 10 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

In some cases, use is made of C8/C16-alkyl(poly)glucosides 1 ,4, especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by COGNIS under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

In some cases, the alkylpolyglucoside is chosen from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid alkanolamides

Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by reacting an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Such surfactants can be chosen from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C6-C36 fatty acids, and preferably from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C8-C30 fatty acids or of C8- C24 fatty acids, and may have a C2-3 hydroxyalkyl group. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soya fatty acids diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the fatty acid alkanolaminde is chosen from Cocamide

MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoley- ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, coco- glucoside, cocamide MIPA, and mixtures thereof.

Cationic Surfactants

The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.

Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(quaternium-14), quaternium-22, quaternium-26, quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphen bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCI, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1 , procainehydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride, and hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide.

The cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include: those corresponding to the general formula (III) below:

(III)

in which the groups Rs to R11 , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyi groups; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci- C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.

In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as the chloride salts of the following compounds:

A. a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (IV) below:

(IV)

in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyi group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyi group or an alkyi or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R represents a C1-C4 alkyi group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyi group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyi sulfates, alkyi- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyi and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyi groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom;

B. a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula (V):

(V)

in which R16 denotes an alkyi radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, Riz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3,

Ri6a, Ri 7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Quaternium 89 and Quaternium 75;

C. a quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VI) below:

R-23 X^'

(VI)

in which:

R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R23 is chosen from:

O

R₂6—

R27, which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based group, and a hydrogen atom,

R25 is chosen from:

O ¾8 C _^ j_29j w ich is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group, and a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R_n denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. In some cases, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is an R29 hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

In some cases, x and z, which may be identical or different, have values of 0 or 1 . Likewise, in some cases y is equal to 1 . In some cases, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X is may be a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (VI) in which:

R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

x and y are equal to 1 ;

z is equal to 0 or 1 ;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R23 is chosen from:

, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and a hydrogen atom;

R25 is chosen from:

O

I½— C

and a hydrogen atom;

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci3-Ci7 alkyl and alkenyl groups. The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (VI) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacylo xyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,

monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

In certain embodiments, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylamonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.

The amount of cationic surfactant employed in the present disclosure may be from about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 2 wt.%, or from about 0.05 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 2 wt.%, or from about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, or about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%.

AMINO SILICONES

The term "amino silicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. As amino silicone that may be used in the scope of the instant disclosure, the following can be cited:

a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500 000

b) amino silicones correspondingto formula (B):

R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-0-SiG3-a-R'a

(B)

in which:

G, which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or C-i-Cs alkyl group, for example methyl, or C-i-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy,

a, which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ;

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR"-Q-N(R")₂

-N(R")2

-N+(R")₃ A- -N+H(R")₂ A- -N+H₂(R") A- -N(R")-Q-N+R"H₂ A- -NFT-Q-N+ (R")₂H A- -NR"-Q-N+ (R")₃ A-,

in which R", which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon -based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched Crhter group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" having formula (C):

(CH₃)₃ Si

in which n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formulae (D) or (E):

CK CH, CK

-SI^¬ o— SI ^¬ o— Si - -O— Si— FL (D)

(CH₂)₃

CK CK CK NH

(CH '2,)>.2

NK m

in which:

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

Ri , R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1 .

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000, more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

in which:

p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

Ri , R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1 .1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.

Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different than formulae (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by

Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in- water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones having formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometres (limits included) and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometres (limits included). Accordingly, according to the invention the microemulsions of amino silicone having formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

in which:

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G):

in which:

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.

A silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning.

c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):

in which:

R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

Such amino silicones are described more particularly in patent US 4

185 087.

d) quaternary ammonium silicones having formula (I):

R_H -

in which:

R.7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

R.6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

R.8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R.6-

NHCORz radical;

X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A

0 530 974.

e) amino silicones having formula (J):

H₂N - (C_m H_2m) - NH - (C_n H_2n) - Si (J)

in which:

Ri , R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group;

R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group;

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;

f) multiblockpolyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe₂0)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-0(C2H₄0)a(C3H₆0)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or alternatively

[-(SiMe₂0)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - 0(C2H₄0)a(C₃H₆0)b -] in which:

a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 1 00, more particularly between from 5 and 30;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000, more particularly from

10 to 5000;

R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH₂- radical; preferentially R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH₂- radical;

R', which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH₂- radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH₃)-CH2-.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0,05 and 0,2.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably comprised between 5000 and 1 000 000, more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.

Mention may be made especially of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft™ A-843 or Silsoft™ A+ by Momentive.

g) the alkylamino silicones corresponding to formula (K) below:

in which:

x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms,

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made especially of the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH₃)CH2-.

Preferably, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and preferentially, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

Preferentially, the silicone is of formula (K) with:

- x ranging from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000;

y ranging from 1 to 100;

A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH₃)CH2-; and

Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, being linear, saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone (INCI name).

Mention may be made especially of the silicone sold under the name Silsoft™ AX by Momentive.

Preferably, the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (F). A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

CATIONIC CONDITIONING AGENTS

The cationic conditioning agents that may be employed in the compositions of the present invention are vast and may, in some cases, overlap with the cationic surfactants listed above. In some cases, the cationic conditioning agent may be a monoalkyl quaternary amine, such as stearyltrimonium chloride, soyatrimonium chloride or coco-ethyldimonium ethosulfate. Other suitable cationic conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, behentrimonium chloride, dialkyl quaternary amines, such as dicetyldimonium chloride, dicocodimethyl ammonium chloride or distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride; and polyquaternium compounds, such as Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium- 22 or Polyquaternium-5. For example, cationic conditioning agents may be chosen from Polyquaternium-7, polyquaterium-10 (also called quaternized polyhydroxyethyl cellulose), cetrimonium chloride (also called cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (also known as docosyl trimethyl ammonium chloride), behentrimonium methosulfate, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, Quaternium-91 , Salcare/PQ-37, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-87, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-1 1 , Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-67, amodimethicone, lauryl betaine, Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, aminopropyl dimethicone, Quaterium-8, and dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate.

In some cases, quaternized polymeric cationic conditioning agents are particularly useful. Particularly preferred are quaternary nitrogen polymers prepared by the polymerization of a dialkyldiallylammonium salt or copolymer thereof in which the alkyl group contains 1 to about 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably where the alkyl group is methyl or ethyl. Details concerning the preparation of these polymers can be found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,288,770, 3,412,019 and 4,772,462, incorporated herein by reference. For example, cationic homopolymers and copolymers of polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride are available in aqueous compositions sold under the trademark MERQUAT by the Calgon Corporation, subsidiary of Merck & Co., Pittsburgh, Pa. The homopolymer, which is named Polyquaternium-6 in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Ed., published in 1982 by the Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc. (hereafter CTFA Dictionary and CTFA name), is sold under the trademark MERQUAT-100, and is described as having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 100,000. A copolymer reaction product of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride with acrylamide monomers is named Polyquaternium-7 in the CTFA Dictionary, is described as having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 500,000 and is sold under the trademark MERQUAT-550. Another copolymer reaction product of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride with acrylic acids having a weight average molecular weight from about 50,000 to about 10,000,000 has the CTFA name Polyquaternium-22 and is sold under the trademark MERQUAT-280. Polyquaternium-6 is particularly preferred.

Other polymeric conditioners include cationic copolymers of methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinyl pyrrolidone, sold commercially by BASF Aktiengesellschaft, West Germany under the trademark LUVIQUAT at three comonomer ratios, namely at ratios of 95/5, 50/50 and 30/70 methylvinylimidazolium chloride to polyvinylpyrrolidone. These copolymers at all three comonomer ratios have the CTFA name Polyquaternium 16. Polymeric conditioners also include cationic cellulosic polymers of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with epichlorohydrin and quaternized with trimethylamine, sold under the trademark POLYMER JR in various viscosity grades and molecular sizes by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn. These series of polymers are named Polyquaternium 10 in the CTFA Dictionary. Also useful are quaternized copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose and dimethyldimethylammonium chloride, having the CTFA name Polyquaternium-4, sold in varying molecular weights under the trademark CELQUAT by National Starch and Chemical Corporation, Bridgewater, N.J.

Smaller molecule cationic non-polymeric conditioning agents can also be utilized herein. Exemplary small-molecule conditioning agents can include monofunctional or difunctional quaternary ammonium compounds, such as stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, dimethyldi-(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium chloride, and the like. Non-polymeric conditioning agents can also include the quaternary ammonium salts of gluconamide derivatives, such as gamma- gluconamidopropyldimethyl-2-hydroxyethyl-ammonium chloride and minkamidopropyldimethyl-2-hydroxyethylammonium chloride identified respectively by the CTFA names Quaternium 22 and Quaternium 26. Details for the preparation of these materials are found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,766,267 and 4,012,398, respectively, and the materials are sold under the trademark CERAPHYL by Van Dyk & Co., Belleville, N.J. Also useful are bis-quaternary ammonium compounds which are dimers, such as 2-hydroxy propylene-bis-1 ,3-(dimethylstearyl ammonium chloride, designated the CTFA name, Hydroxypropyl Bisstearyldimonium chloride. The preparation of these and other bis-quat materials is described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,734,277, and such materials are sold under the trademark JORDAQUAT DIMER by Jordan Chemical Company, Folcroft, Pa.

Exemplary unquaternized polymers having tertiary amino nitrogen groups that become quaternized when protonated can include water-soluble proteinaceous quaternary ammonium compounds. Cocodimonium hydrolyzed animal protein, for example, is the CTFA name for a chemically-modified quaternary ammonium derivative of hydrolyzed collagen protein having from about 12 to about 18 carbons in at least one aliphatic alkyl group, a weight average molecular weight from about 2500 to about 12,000, and an isoionic point in a range from about 9.5 to about 1 1 .5. This material and structurally related materials are sold under the trademarks CROQUAT and CROTEIN by Croda, Inc., New York, N.Y.

The total amount of the one or more conditioning agents, if present, may vary. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more conditioning agents is from about 0.1 to about 25 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, or about 1 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

FATTY DIALKYLAMINES

In some instances, the fatty dialkylamines correspond to the compounds of formula:

RN(R')₂ wherein R is a fatty group containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, R can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Typically, R is a linear or branched, acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group; and the groups R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the groups R', which may be identical or different, are linear or branchedsaturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, the groups R', which may be identical or different are methyl groups. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.

RCONHR"N(R')₂

wherein R is a fatty group containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, R can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Typically, R is a linear or branched, acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group; R" is a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, and the groups R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the groups R', which may be identical or different, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, the groups R', which may be identical or different are methyl groups. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflowerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine, almondamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicaamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof. MONO-, Dl, AND TRI-CARBOXYLIC ACIDS

The mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be chosen especially from linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, polycarboxylic acids, containing 2 to 50 or 2 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 36, 3 to 18, or 4 to 12 carbon atoms, or even 5 to 10 carbon atoms; the acid comprising one, two, or three carboxylic groups COOH; and possibly comprising 1 to 10 or 1 to 6 identical or different heteroatoms, chosen from O, N and S; and/or possibly comprising at least one perfluoro radical chosen from -CF2- (divalent) or -CF3.

In some cases, the mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids are saturated, linear and aliphatic and contain 2 to 36 carbon atoms or 3 to 18 carbon atoms or even 4 to 12 carbon atoms; or alternatively are aromatic and contain 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

The cyclic anhydride of a polycarboxylic acid may correspond to one of the following formulae:

in which the groups A and B are, independently of each other: a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic aliphatic, or alternatively aromatic, carbon-based radical; containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms, 2 to 10 carbon atoms or even 4 to 8 carbon atoms, especially methyl or ethyl, or alternatively A and B taken together form a saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, ring comprising in total 5 to 14, especially 5 to 10 or even 6 to 7 carbon atoms. In some cases, A and B represent a hydrogen atom or together form an aromatic ring containing in total 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

Among the mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids or anhydrides thereof that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of: dicarboxylic acids such as decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-1 ,4- dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, hexahydrophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid and fatty acid dimers (especially of C36) ; tricarboxylic acids such as cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1 ,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid and 1 ,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid, tetracarboxylic acids such as butanetetracarboxylic acid and pyromellitic acid, cyclic anhydrides of these acids and especially phthalic anhydride, trimellitic anhydride, maleic anhydride and succinic anhydride.

Mention may also be made of mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

(i) mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched chain comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from O, N and/or S, especially 1 to 10 identical or different heteroatoms, and/or comprising at least one perfluoro radical -CF2- or -CF3 and moreover containing 1 , 2, or 3 carboxylic groups COOH; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid; and/or

(ii) saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, heterocyclic mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from 0, N and/or S, especially 1 to 10, or even 1 to 4, identical or different heteroatoms, and 1 , 2, or 3 carboxylic groups COOH; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid; and/or

(iii) sugar-based mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids, which may be obtained especially by oxidation of an aldose, and comprising 1 , 2, or 3 carboxylic groups COOH; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid; and/or

(iv) itaconic anhydride;

(v) mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids (including heterocyclic) amino acids, i.e. polycarboxylic acids containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic chain, optionally comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from O, N and/or S, especially 1 to 10 identical or different heteroatoms, and/or optionally comprising at least one perfluoro radical -CF2- or -CF3; and also comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function (especially NR¹ R² with R¹ and R², independently of each other, chosen from H and C1-C12 alkyl), especially 1 to 3 identical or different amine functions, and moreover containing 1 , 2, or 3 carboxylic acid groups COOH; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid. Mention may also be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following di- carboxylic acids:

(i) 2,2'-[1 ,5-pentanediylbis(thio)]bis-acetic acid, 6,6'-[(1 ,2-dioxo-1 ,2- ethanediyl)diimino]bis-hexanoic acid, 2,2'-sulfinylbis-acetic acid, 4,13-dioxo- 3,5,12,14-tetraazahexadecanedioic acid poly(ethylene glycol)disuccinate, especially of mass 250-600 poly(ethylene glycol)bis(carboxymethyl) ether, especially of mass 250-600 poly[oxy(1 ,2-dicarboxy-1 ,2-ethanediyl)], especially of DP<10 8- [(carboxymethyl)amino]-8-oxooctanoic acid, 2,2'-[methylenebis(sulfonyl)]bis-acetic acid, 4,4'-(1 ,6-hexanediyldiimino)bis[4-oxobutanoic acid], 4,9-dioxo-3,5,8,10- tetraazadodecanedioic acid, 4-[(1 -carboxyethyl)amino]-4-oxobutanoic acid, 6-[(3- carboxy-1 -oxopropyl)amino]hexanoic acid, N,N'-(1 ,6-dioxo-1 ,6-hexanediyl)bis- glycine, N,N'-(1 ,6-dioxo-1 ,6-hexanediyl)bis-phenylalanine, N,N'-(1 ,3-dioxo-1 ,3- propanediyl)bis-glycine, 4,4'-[(1 ,4-dioxo-1 ,4-butanediyl)diimino]bis-butanoic acid, 4,4'- [(1 ,6-dioxo-1 ,6-hexanediyl)diimino]bis-butanoic acid, 6,6'-[1 ,6- hexanediylbis(iminocarbonylimino)]bis-hexanoic acid, N-benzoyl-S-

(carboxymethyl)cysteine N,N'-(2,2,3,3-tetrafluoro-1 ,4-dioxo-1 ,4-butanediyl)bis- glycine, N,N'-(2,2,3,3-tetrafluoro-1 ,4-dioxo-1 ,4-butanediyl)bis-alanine, 4,4'-[(2,2,3,3- tetrafluoro-1 ,4-dioxo-1 ,4-butanoic acid, N,N'-(1 ,5-dioxo-1 ,5-pentanediyl)bis-glycine, N,N'-(1 ,9-dioxo-1 ,9-nonanediyl)bis-glycine, N,N'-(1 ,10-dioxo-1 ,10-decanediyl)bis[N- methyl]glycine, bis(3-carboxypropyl)ester of propanedioic acid, 7,16-dioxo-6,8,15,17- tetraazadocosanedioic acid, N-benzoyl-N-(2-carboxyethyl)glycine, [2-[(2- carboxymethyl)amino]-2-oxoethyl]benzenepropanoic acid, [2-[(2- carboxyethyl)amino]-2-oxoethyl]benzenepropanoic acid,

(ii) 4,7,9,12-tetraoxapentadecanedioic acid, 2,3-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 4-pyranone-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-pyrazinedicarboxylic acid, 2,5- pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2,3-benzofurandicarboxylic acid, 7- oxabicyclo[2.2.1 ]heptane-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2,4- pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 3,5-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 1 H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 6,6,7,7-tetrafluoro- 3-oxabicyclo[3.2.0]heptane-2,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,6-pyrazinedicarboxylic acid, 2,6- dimethyl-3,5-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 1 -phenyl-1 H-pyrazole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-furandicarboxylic acid, 3,4-furandicarboxylic acid, 1 ,2,5-thiadiazole-3,4- dicarboxylic acid, 1 ,4-dihydro-1 ,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3- furandicarboxylic acid, 3,4-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 1 H-1 ,2,3-triazole-4,5- dicarboxylic acid, 2-methylimidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, naphtho[2,1 -b]furan-1 ,2-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 7- oxabicyclo[2.2.1 ]hept-5-ene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-quinoxalinedicarboxylic acid,

1 .4- piperazinedicarboxylic acid, 2,5-dimethyl-3,4-furandicarboxylic acid, tetrahydro- 2,5-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 4-phenyl-3,5-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, thieno[3,2- b]thiophene-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 3-methyl-2,4-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, naphthostyril-5,6-dicarboxylic acid, 3-phenyl-2,4-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 3,4- dimethyl-2,5-dicarboxythiophene 3,4-diphenyl-2,5-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 2,5- diphenyl-3,4-furandicarboxylic acid, 7-oxo-7H-benzimidazo[2,1 - a]benz[de]isoquinoline-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-1 ,3-dioxo-1 H- benz[de]isoquinoline-6,7-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-bis(phenylmethoxy)-2,5- furandicarboxylic acid, 4,4'-bibenzoic acid-2,2'-sulfone 2,7-diphenyl-m-anthrazoline-

4.5- dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-pyrimidinedicarboxylic acid, 2-phenyl-4,5- thiazoledicarboxylic acid, 6-phenyl-2,3-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 5,6-dimethyl-2,3- pyrazinedicarboxylic acid, 3,7-dibenzothiophenedicarboxylic acid, 9-oxo-9H- xanthene-1 ,7-dicarboxylic acid, 2-(1 ,1 -dimethylethyl)-H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic, acid 6,7-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 6-methyl-2,3-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 4,5- pyrimidinedicarboxylic acid, 2-methyl-3,4-furandicarboxylic acid, 1 ,2- indolizinedicarboxylic acid, 2,8-dibenzothiophenedicarboxylic acid, 3,6- pyridazinedicarboxylic acid, 1 ,10-phenanthroline-2,9-dicarboxylic acid, 1 ,4,5,6- tetrahydro-5,6-dioxo-2,3-pyrazinedicarboxylic acid, 3,4-dimethoxy-2,5- furandicarboxylic acid, 2-ethyl-4,5-imidazoledicarboxylic acid, 2-propyl-1 H-imidazole- 4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 4-phenyl-2,5-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 4,5- pyridazinedicarboxylic acid, 1 ,4,5,8-tetrahydro-1 ,4:5,8-diepoxynaphthalene-4a,8a- dicarboxylic acid, 5,5-dioxide-2,8-dibenzothiophenedicarboxylic acid, pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-1 H-pyrrolizine-1 ,7-dicarboxylic acid, 6- methyl-2,4,5-pyridinetricarboxylic acid, pyrrolo[2,1 ,5-cd]indolizine-5,6-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-bis(2,2,3,3,4,4,4-heptafluorobutyl)-1 H-pyrrole-2,5-dicarboxylic acid 6,7,9,10,17,18,20,21 -octahydrodibenzo[b,k]-[1 ,4,7,10,13,16]hexaoxacyclooc- tadecin-2,14-dicarboxylic acid, 6,7,9, 10, 17,18,20,21 -octahydrodibenzo[b,k]- [1 ,4,7,10,13,16]hexaoxacyclooc- tadecin-2,13-dicarboxylic acid, 2-methyl-3,4- quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 4,7-quinolinedicarboxylic acid 3,5-isoxazoledicarboxylic acid, 2-(trifluoromethyl)-3,4-furandicarboxylic acid, 5-(trifluoromethyl)-2,4- furandicarboxylic acid, 6-methyl-2,4-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 5-oxo-1 ,2- pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, 5-ethyl-2,3-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 1 ,2-dihydro-2-oxo- 3,4-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 4,6-phenoxathiindicarboxylic acid, 10,10-dioxide 1 ,9- phenoxathiindicarboxylic acid, 3,4-dihydro-2H-1 ,4-thiazine-3,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,7- di(tert-butyl)-9,9-dimethyl-4,5-xanthenedicarboxylic acid, 6-methyl-2,3- quinoxalinedicarboxylic acid, 3,7-quinolinedicarboxylic acid 2,5-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 2-methyl-6-phenyl-3,4-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 3,4-dimethylthieno[2,3- b]thiophene-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-dimethoxythiophene-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 5- methyl-3,4-isoxazoledicarboxylic acid, 2,6-bis(aminocarbonyl)-3,5- pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 3,5-bis(aminocarbonyl)-2,6-pyrazinedicarboxylic acid, 2,3- pyridinedicarboxylic acid 6-(1 ,1 -dimethylethyl)-2-ethyl-3,4-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-2,4-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 1 ,2-dihydro-2-oxo-6-phenyl-3,5- pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 8-methyl-2,4-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 4-ethyl-2,6- dimethyl-3,5-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 5-(phenoxymethyl)-2,4-furandicarboxylic acid, 5-(acetylamino)-3-methyl-2,4-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 2-(4-heptylphenyl)-4,8- quinolinedicarboxylic acid 2,8-bis(4-heptylphenyl)pyrido[3,2-g]quinoline-4,6- dicarboxylic acid, 1 ,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-octahydro-2,8-dioxopyrido[3,2]-quinoline-3,7- dicarboxylic acid, 2,8-dimethylpyrido[3,2-g]quinoline-3,7-dicarboxylic acid, 5,6- quinolinedicarboxylic acid 6-ethyl-2-methylcinchomeronic acid, 2-methyl-6- propylcinchomeronic acid, 6-isopropyl-2-methylcinchomeronic acid, 6-tert-butyl-2- methylcinchomeronic acid, 1 ,4-dimethyl-7-oxabicyclo[2.2.1 ]heptane-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, 1 ,2-dihydro-2-oxo-3,8-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 1 ,2-dihydro-2-oxo-3,6- quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 1 ,2-dihydro-2-oxo-3,7-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 3,7- dimethyl-2,8-diphenylpyrido[3,2-g]quinoline-4,6-dicarboxylic acid 8-methyl-2,3- quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 3-[[(1 ,1 -dimethylethyl)amino]sulfonyl]-2,5- thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 4-(acetylamino)-2,3-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 2,5- pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-pyridinedicarboxylic acid 2,4-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 2,5-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 1 ,4-pyran-2,6-dicarboxylic acid;

(iii) ribaric acid, glucaric acid, xylaric acid, arabinaric acid, mannaric acid, idaric acid, altraric acid, L-glucaric acid, L-arabinaric acid, allaric acid, galactaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, D-glucaric acid, L-idaric acid, hexaric acid, 2,3- dihydroxybutanedioic acid, D-tartaric acid, D,L-tartaric acid, D-glucaric acid tartaric, acid tetrahydroxysuccinic acid, 2-carboxy-2,3-dideoxy-D-manno-2-octulopyranosonic acid, methyl-3-deoxy-D-arabino-2-heptulopyranosaric acid, D-lyxo-2- heptulopyranosaric acid, 2,6-anhydro-L-glycero-L-galactoheptaric acid; (iv) 1 ,4,5,8-naphthalenetetracarboxylic acid, 1 ,4-monoanhydride itaconic anhydride;

(v) 1 ,4-dihydro-4-oxo-2,6-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2,6- piperidinedicarboxylic acid, 1 H-pyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 4-amino-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, 1 -methyl-1 H-pyrazole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-piperidinedicarboxylic acid, 1 - methyl-1 H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,4-thiazolidinedicarboxylic acid, 1 - (phenylmethyl)-l H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6-oxo-2,3- piperidinedicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6-oxo-2,4-piperidinedicarboxylic acid 5-amino-6- oxo-2, 3-piperidinedicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6-oxo[2S-(2a,4p,5a)]-2,4- piperidinedicarboxylic acid, (2S,4R)-2,4-pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, (2S-cis)-2,4- pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid 2-amino-1 H-imidazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5- pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid 4-amino-3,5-isothiazoledicarboxylic acid, 1 -methyl- 1 H- pyrazole-3,5-dicarboxylic acid, 7-(diethylamino)-2-oxo-2H-1 -benzopyran-3,4- dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-diethyl-1 H-pyrrole-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 1 -phenyl-1 H-pyrrole- 3,4-dicarboxylic acid, cis-2,3-piperazinedicarboxylic acid 2,3-piperazinedicarboxylic acid, 2,5-piperazinedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-piperazinedicarboxylic acid 2-amino-3,5- pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2-methylpyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 4-(methylamino)-2,6- pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2-amino-6-methyl-3,4-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-2- methyl-3,4-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2-amino-6-methyl-3,5-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2,5-dimethylpyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2,5-dimethylpyrrole-3,4-dicarboxylic acid, 2- amino-6-hydroxy-3,5-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2,4-pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, 1 H- indole-2,4-dicarboxylic acid, 1 H-indole-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, 1 H-indole-2,5- dicarboxylic acid, 5-phenyl-2,4-pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, 5-methyl-2,4- pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, trans-2,4-azetidinedicarboxylic acid, cis-2,4- azetidinedicarboxylic acid, 3,5-piperidinedicarboxylic acid, 2,3-pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, 2,3-azetidinedicarboxylic acid, 3,4-pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-6H- 1 ,4-dioxino[2,3-c]pyrrole-5,7-dicarboxylic acid, 1 H-imidazole-2,4-dicarboxylic acid 1 - butyl-1 H-pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, 3-amino-1 -oxide-2,4-pyridinedicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-5-phenyl-1 H-pyrrolizine-6,7-dicarboxylic acid, 3a,4,5,9b-tetrahydro-3H- cyclopenta[c]quinoline-4,6-dicarboxylic acid, 3a,4,5,9b-tetrahydro-3H- cyclopenta[c]quinoline-4,8-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dihydro-1 H-imidazole-4,5- dicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-6-methyllutidinic acid 1 H-indole-3,7-dicarboxylic acid, 3,3- dimethyl-2,6-piperidinedicarboxylic acid ,1 -butyl-2,5-pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, 1 H- indole-4,6-dicarboxylic acid 1 -(phenylmethyl)-3,4-pyrrolidinedicarboxylic acid, 3- (carboxymethyl)-l H-indole-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, 3,4-bis(2,2,2-trifluoroethyl)-1 H- pyrrole-2,5-dicarboxylic acid, 9-hexyl-9H-carbazole-3,6-dicarboxylic acid,,3-methyl-5- (1 -piperazinylsulfonyl)-2,4-thiophenedicarboxylic acid, 2,3,4,9-tetrahydro-1 H- carbazole-5,7-dicarboxylic acid, 2,3-dimethyl-1 H-indole-4,6-dicarboxylic acid, 7- amino-1 ,4-dihydro-4-oxo-3,6-quinolinedicarboxylic acid, 5-amino-3-methyl-2,4- thiophenedicarboxylic acid, (m-tolylimino)diacetic acid, (o-tolylimino)diacetic acid, and D-cystathionine phenethyliminodiacetic acid, 2-benzyl-2,2'-iminodiacetic acid

The total amount of the mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids can vary depending on the type of composition. For example a restructuring composition that is added to chemical treatment composition will typically have a higher amount of the one or more mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids because the one more mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids become more diluted when the restructuring composition is combined with a chemical treatment composition.

The total amount of mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids in a restructuring composition is typically about 1 to about 50 wt.%, based on the total weight of the restructuring composition. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids in a restructuring composition is about 1 to about 40 wt.%, about 1 to about 30 wt.%, about 1 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 5 to about 50 wt.%, about 5 to about 40 wt.%, about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 25 wt.%, or about 5 to about 20 wt.%.

When mixed with a hair treatment composition or when the hair restructuring components are already formulated as part of a chemical hair treatment formulation, the total amount of mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids will typically be less than the total amount in a restructuring composition. For example, the total amount of mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids in a chemical hair treatment composition may be about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the chemical hair treatment composition.

POLYALKYLENE GLYCOLS

Examples of polyalkylene glycols include polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and polypropylene glycols (PPGs). A general formula for polyalkylene glycols follows: H(OR)nOH, wherein R is an alkyl group and n>10. A general formula for polyethylene glycols is H(OCH2CH2)nOH, wherein n is >2. A general formula for polypropylene glycol is H(OCH2CH2CH2)nOH, wherein n is >2. Block polymers of polyalkylene glycols, and more particularly, block polymers of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycols may be used. Even more particularly, polyethylene-90 or polyethylene-180 may commonly be used. Polyoxyethylene glycols can also be employed.

Solid polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols and derivatives thereof are solid (or semi-solid) at 25°C and may be used. The solid polyethylene glycols are typically made from at least 16 units of ethylene glycol and have the general formula HO-(CH2-O-CH2-O)_y~H with y being a number of at least 16, e.g. from 20 to 220 or from 40 to 150. The molecular weight (weight average) is above 720, e.g. from 720 to 100000, or from 950 or 1500 or 2000 or 2700 to 30000. Non- limiting examples of solid polyethylene glycols include PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-40, PEG-45, PEG-55, PEG-60, PEG-75, PEG-90 and PEG-100. Suitable trade products are for example Polyglykol 3000 of Clariant with an average molecular weight of 2700 to 3000 or Polyglykol 4000 with an average molecular weight of 3700 to 4500.

THICKENING AGENTS

Consumers expect of their cleansing products have an aesthetically pleasing viscosity. Formulations that flow with a watery consistency are aesthetically unpopular to consumers with expectations of rich and creamy products. While low viscosity products may be effective for their intended purpose, they are perceived to be of low quality by the consumer. Formulations that flow with a watery consistency run off when applied.

As used herein, the term "thickening agent" means compounds which, by their presence, increase the viscosity of the composition into which they are introduced. For examples, the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer, or the like. The thickening agent may be referred to interchangeably herein as thickener or rheology modifier. Thickening agents are also sometimes referred to as gellifying agents and/or viscosity modifying agents.

In certain embodiments, the thickening agent may be chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics, such as polymers of natural origin and synthetic polymers, for example, nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphiphilic, or amphoteric polymers, and other known rheology modifiers, such as cellulose-based thickeners.

Many thickeners are water-soluble, and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when the cosmetic composition of the invention is dispersed/dissolved in water. The aqueous solution may be heated and cooled, or neutralized, for forming the gel, if necessary. The thickener may be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent that is soluble in water, e.g., ethyl alcohol when it is dispersed/dissolved in water.

In some cases, the thickening agents can be anionic thickening agents. Anionic thickening agents may be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic thickeners include homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Versicol F® or Versicol K® by the company Allied Colloid, or under the tradename Ultrahold 8® by the company Ciba-Geigy; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, methylacrylate and dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohols such as methylacrylate and dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3) sold under the tradename Viscophobe® DB 1000 from The Dow Chemical Company, those sold under the tradenames Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian, or under the tradename Hispajel by the company Hispano Chimica; and polyacrylic acids of Synthalen® K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Reten® by Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate such as those sold under the tradename Darvan® 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the tradename Hydagen F® by the company Henkel, and polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of PemulenTM type.

In certain cases, the at least one thickening agent is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids possessing α,β-ethylenically unsaturated groups or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) possessing ethylenically unsaturated groups and comprising a hydrophobic group.

The thickening agents may also be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, for example cellulose polymers and gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as those sold under the tradename Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Reten® by Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the tradename Hydagen F® by the company Henkel, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance poly(2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) such as those sold under the tradename Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) by the company Clariant, crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, e.g. in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as those sold under the tradename Simugel™ 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of PemulenTM type, and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the thickening agent may be chosen from nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the amide type, for example, the polyacrylamide products sold under the tradenames Cyanamer® P250 by the company CYTEC.

The thickening agents may be chosen from polymers of natural origin and may include thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit, for instance nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups; biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan gum (also known as sclerotium gum) or xanthan gum; gums derived from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar gum, carob gum, ceratonia siliqua gum or cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum; pectins; alginates; starches; hydroxy(C1 -C6)alkylcelluloses; or carboxy(C1 -C6)alkylcelluloses.

In some instances, the nonionic, unmodified guar gums may be chosen from GUARGEL D/15 sold by the company NOVEON, VIDOGUM GH 175 sold by the company UNIPECTINE, MEYPRO-GUAR 50 sold by the company MEYHALL, or Jaguar® C sold by the company RHODIA CHIMIE. In other instances, the nonionic modified guar gums may be chosen from Jaguar® HP8, HP60, HP120, DC 293 and HP 105 sold by the companies MEYHALL and RHODIA CHIMIE or Galactasol™ 4H4FD2 sold by the company Ashland.

Also, the thickening agents may be chosen from scleroglucans, for example, Actigum™ CS from Sanofi Bio Industries; Amigel® sold by the company Alban Muller International; xanthan gums, for instance Keltrol®, Keltrol® T, Keltrol® Tf, Keltrol® Bt, Keltrol® Rd, and Keltrol® Cg sold by the company CP Kelco, Rhodicare® S and Rhodicare® H sold by the company Rhodia Chimie; starch derivatives, for instance Primogel® sold by the company Avebe; hydroxyethylcelluloses such as Cellosize® QP3L, QP4400H, QP30000H, HEC30000A and Polymer PCG10 sold by the company Amerchol, Natrosol™ 250HHR, 250MR, 250M, 250HHXR, 250HHX, 250HR, and 250 HX, sold by the company Hercules, or Tylose® H1 000 sold by the company Hoechst; hydroxypropylcelluloses, for instance KlucelTM EF, H, LHF, MF, and G, sold by the company Ashland; carboxymethylcelluloses, for instance Blanose® 7M8/SF, refined 7M, 7LF, 7MF, 9M31 F, 1 2M31 XP, 12M31 P, 9M31 XF, 7H, 7M31 , and 7H3SXF, sold by the company Ashland, Aquasorb® A500 sold by the company Hercules, Ambergum® 1221 sold by the company Hercules, Cellogen® HP81 0A and HP6HS9 sold by the company Montello and Primellose® sold by the company Avebe.

In other cases, the modified nonionic guar gums may, for example, be modified with C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Such hydroxyalkyl groups may be chosen from hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups.

Guar gums may be prepared by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The hydroxyalkylation ratio, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed to the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum, may in certain embodiments range from about 0.4 to about 1 .2.

Examples of nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, include those sold under the tradenames Jaguar® HP8, Jaguar® HP60, Jaguar® HP120, Jaguar® DC 293, and Jaguar® HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and under the tradename Galactasol™ 4H4FD2 by the company Ashland.

In other cases, the guar gum may be chosen from those modified with a quaternary ammonium group, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, also sold under the tradename Jaguar® C-13S by the company Rhodia Chimie.

In other cases, the ceulloses may be chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses, such as those sold under the tradenames Klucel™ EF, Klucel™ H, Klucel™ LHF, Klucel™ MF, Klucel™ G, by the company Ashland and under the tradename Cellosize™ PCG-10 by the company Amerchol.

In other cases, non-limiting thickening polysaccharides may be chosen from glucans; modified or unmodified starches such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as golden pea, or tubers such as potato or cassava; amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses or derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids or pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gums arabic, gums tragacanth, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives such as hydroxypropylguar, or mixtures thereof.

In other cases, the thickening agent may be chosen from silicas or hydrophobic silicas, such as those described in EP-A-898960, incorporated by reference herein. Examples of such silicas include those sold under the tradename Aerosil® R81 2 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL® TS-530, CAB-O-SIL® TS- 610, CAB-O-SIL® TS-720 by the company Cabot, or Aerosil® R972 and Aerosil® R974 by the company Degussa; clays, such as montmorillonite; modified clays such as the bentones, for example, stearalkonium hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite; or polysaccharide alkyl ethers, optionally with the alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, for example from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, such as those described in document EP-A-898958, incorporated by reference herein.

In certain cases, when an anionic thickening agent is used, it is generally neutralized before being included in, or as it is added to the compositions of the disclosure. Such an anionic thickening agent may be neutralized by employing traditional neutralizing agents such as alkanolamines, for example, monoethanolamine and diethanolamine; aminomethyl propanol; basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine; or ammonium compounds and their salts. The anionic thickening agent may also be neutralized by a latex polyurethane polymer having at least one free amino group.

In particular, the at least one thickening agent is selected from cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas, and mixtures thereof.

The thickening agent may be a starch derivative chosen from the compounds of the following formulae:

R' R

St-0-(CHArN

\

R"

Si ~ O— C

OO

W R"

I

St - O— CH— CH £— COOM in which formulae:

St-O represents a starch molecule,

R, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R', which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,

M, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K or Li, NH₄, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,

R" represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to

18 carbon atoms.

These compounds are disclosed in particular in US patents 5,455,340 and 4,017,460 which are incorporated by way of reference in their entirety.

The starch molecules may be derived from any plant sources of starch such as, in particular, corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. The starch hydrolysates mentioned above may also be used.

Implementation of the present disclosure is provided by way of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature.

Example 1

(Formulations)

C

A B

Component INCI US Comparative wt.% wt.%

wt%

(a)

Water 80.1 80.1 78.9 Water

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

and/or Sodium Laureth 10.6 10.6 12.5

(b)

Sulfate (anionic)

Surfactants

Coco-Betaine

2.7 2.7 1 .8 (amphoteric)

(c) Amodimethicone 0.6 0.6

Amino Silicone Dimethicone 1 .9

(d) Quaternary Ammonium

0.5 0.5 0.2

Cationic Conditioner Compound(s)

(e) Stearamidopropyl

1 1

Fatty dimethylamines dimethylamine

Fatty Mono-

Cocamide Ml PA 0.5 Isopropanolamine C

A B

Component INCI US Comparative wt.% wt.%

wt%

(f) Tartaric Acid 0.2 0.2

mono-, di-, and/or tri¬

Salicylic Acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 carboxylic acids

(g) PEG-90M 0.4

Hexylene Glycol 1 1 0.5

Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1

Preservative 0.5 0.5 0.5

Opacifying Agent 1 .6 1 .6 1 .6

Fragrance 0.7 0.7 0.5

Sodium Chloride 1 .3 0.7 1 .8

Miscellaneous < 2 < 2 < 2

Inventive formulations A and B were prepared by adding the polyquaternium-10 to water and mixing, followed by the addition and mixing of tartaric acid and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. This combination was heated to 65^QC and mixed until the solids were melted. After the heating was stopped, a quaternary ammonium compound(s) (e.g., Polyquaternium-7 and/or Polyquaternium-10) was added and mixed, followed by the addition of PEG-90M (for Formulation A).

In a separate container, carbomer was added to water and mixed until the solids were completely dispersed. Sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate were then added and mixed. Subsequently, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, and amodimethicone (provided by the supplier as a blend with small amounts of nonionic and cationic surfactants), and fragrance were added and mixed until solubilized. The first mixture comprising tartaric acid and the stearamidopropyl dimethylamine was combined with the second mixture comprising the anionic surfactants (sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate). Finally, coco-betaine and other desired additives or miscellaneous ingredients such as sodium chloride, were added and mixed until solubilized. The final pH may be adjusted with an acid such as salicylic acid or additional amount of tartaric acid and/or sodium hydroxide, and the viscosity may be adjusted with sodium hydroxide and/or hexylene glycol.

Although the commercial benchmark (Formulation C) has slightly different amounts of sulfate surfactants and coco-betaine, and includes dimethicone instead of amodimethicone, these differences do not appreciably account for the difference in the compositions' properties, in particular the difference in the compositions' viscoelastic properties, rheology characteristics, and foam characteristics (which are described in more detail in the subsequent Examples). It has been surprisingly discovered that the combination of the fatty dialkylamine (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) and the non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tricarboxylic acid (tartaric acid) in Formulations A and B results is critical difference between these formulations and Formulation C. The tartaric acid neutralizes the stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that the neutralized fatty dialkylamine behaves as a cationic surfactant that interacts with anionic surfactants to create a strong surfactant web that imparts the strong viscoelastic properties to the instant compositions. In addition, it is believed that the neutralization of the fatty dialkylamine enabled the inventors to prepare a stable composition that contains both a cationic surfactant and an anionic surfactant

Although salicylic acid is a mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acid, it was not actually used to "neutralize the" the stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. In the instant examples, it was added after the stearamidopropyl dimethylamine was neutralized, and used as a preservative. The neutralization step was carried out by adding the polyquaternium-10 to water and mixing, followed by the addition and mixing of tartaric acid and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The neutralization step is carried out at an acidic pH (below 7), for example, at a pH of about 2.5 to about 5, about 3 to about 4.5, or about 3 to about 3.5. After the neutralization step is complete, the pH can be raised as additional components of the formulation are combined.

Example 2

(Properties)

The physico-chemical properties of the inventive shampoos (Formulations A and B in Example 1 ) were characterized by rheological measurements. Foams generated from these shampoos were characterized by measurements of aeration rate, texturometry and binocular magnifier, and compared to a comparative commercial benchmark shampoo (Formulation C in Example 1 ). The rheological measurements show that the inventive shampoos (Formulations A and B) exhibit a pseudo-maxwellian behavior and have profiles of surfactant solutions (wormlike micelles) with a relaxation time much longer than the comparative commercial benchmark shampoo (7 times longer). From a rheological point of view, the addition of PEG-90M had no effect. The aeration rate measurements and binocular magnifier of the three shampoos were similar, however the firmness of the inventive shampoos were higher than the comparative commercial benchmark shampoo, with Inventive Formulation A (with PEG-90M) displaying higher firmness than Inventive Formulation B.

Rheology Characteristics

The rheological characteristics were measured using a MCR 502 from ANTON PAAR rotational rheometer, equipped with an air-cooled Peltier plate to regulate the temperature. A cone and plate geometry 50 mm / angle 1 ° (sandblasted stainless steel at 5 μιη) was used with anti-evaporation device to avoid evaporation during measurements. The rheology characteristics are shown by the viscoelastic spectrum from 0.1 to 100 Hz at 25.0°C (with a deformation of 0.1 %) in FIG. 1 and the flow curve from 0.1 to 1000s ¹ at 25.0°C in FIG. 2.

FIG. 1 shows that the three shampoos (Formulations A and B, and the comparative commercial benchmark (Formulation (C)) display similar typical behavior for pseudo-maxwellian fluids (elastic plateau of G' at high frequency, crossing point between G' and G", and liquid behavior at low frequency) which is the signature of wormlike micelles. The two inventive shampoos (Formulations A and B) present a similar profile and a similar, very high relaxation time, which was 7 times longer than the comparative commercial benchmark shampoo. The viscoelastic moduli G' and G" of viscoelastic inventive shampoos are higher too. Note that the viscoelastic spectra do not detect the presence of polymer PEG-90M, which indicates that the PEG-90M does not influence the viscoelastic properties of the compositions. A comparison of the viscoelastric spectra show that the inventive shampoos (Formulations A and B) exhibit significantly more viscoelastic (memory-foam-like) behavior than the commercial benchmark. This is shown by the longer, extended plateau of the lines for Formulations A and B. The lines representing Formulations A and B have an early onset of the plateau and have an overall more "flat" profile than the commercial benchmark shampoo.

FIG. 2 shows that all three shampoos (Formulations A and B, and the comparative commercial benchmark) reach a pseudo-Newtonian plateau at low shear rate (wormlike micelles). The slipping transition of the inventive shampoos (Formulations A and B), due to the alignment of the micelles, occurs at much lower values of shear rate in comparison to the comparative commercial benchmark shampoo.

Foam Characteristics

Foams were generated from all shampoos listed in Example 1 (Formulations A, B, and C) that had been diluted three times with tap water. Samples were foamed in a 500 ml plastic beaker using a Philips hand blender (700 watt) equipped with a whisk. This blender has 5 speed levels; speed #2 was used. The samples were whipped for two minutes to generate foam.

A polycarbonate cylinder (height 70 mm and diameter 50 mm), was filled with the foam and weighed. The air fraction φ is expressed as percent, as follows:

where mt is the mass of foam in grams and m_w is the mass of the same volume of water. To determine m_w, prior to the experiment the crystallizer was weighted once empty and once filled with water. Densities of the diluted shampoos are assumed to be the same as the density of tap water for this analysis. The aeration rate for Formulation A, B, and C are shown in FIG. 3. The aeration rate represents the volume fraction of air in the foam. Values reported are mean values calculated for two replicates and error bars correspond to standard deviation. The inventive viscoelactic shampoos (Formulations A and B) display similar values for aeration rate, which are similar to the aeration rate for the comparative commercial benchmark formulation (Formulation C).

Foam texture is analyzed with a Stable Micro System TA.XT.plus texture analyzer equipped with a force sensor able to detect forces up to 50 N. The probe used is a polycarbonate disk of thickness 5 mm and diameter 45 mm. It is connected to the force sensor with a metal rod. The foam container is a polycarbonate cylinder of height 70 mm and diameter 50 mm. A force is measured versus time during back-extrusion: the probe gets through the foam and gets out of the foam. The parameters used are as follows: velocity of the probe is 40 mm/s before, during and after penetration, and penetration depth is 40 mm. The graph force versus time allows extracting parameters of interest: the firmness corresponds to the highest force value measured during penetration of the probe. Firmness of foams generated with the Philips hand blender from viscoelastic shampoo formulae are plotted in FIG. 4. It corresponds to average values calculated for two replicates and error bars are standard deviation. Formulation B displays lower firmness than Formulation A (with PEG-90M). Both inventive shampoos (Formulations A and B) presented higher firmness than the comparative commercial benchmark shampoo (Formulation C).

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments but, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable to use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the invention concepts as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein above are further intended to explain best modes known by applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such, or other, embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. Also, it is intended to the appended claims be construed to include alternative embodiments.

As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used in their open, non-limiting sense.

The terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

"Keratinous substrates" as used herein, includes, but is not limited to keratin fibers such as hair and/or scalp on the human head.

"Conditioning" as used herein means imparting to one or more hair fibers at least one property chosen from combability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in), and consumer perception.

The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term 'treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.

A "rinse-off" product refers to a composition such as a hair care composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto the keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or styling said keratinous substrate. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing.

The term "stable" as used herein means that the composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.

"Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about

100^QC.

"Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100^QC.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.

The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 1 wt.%, less than about 0.5 wt.%, less than about 0.1 wt.%, or none of the specified material. The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" does not refer to or include the specified material when it is present in raw materials as commercially available from suppliers.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS

1 . A cosmetic composition comprising:

water;

one or more surfactants;

one or more amino silicones;

one or more cationic conditioning agents that are different than the one or more surfactants of (b);

(e) one or more fatty dialkylamines; and

(f) one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the one or more surfactants of (b) include one or more amphoteric surfactants and one or more anionic surfactants.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or claim 2 comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, amphoproprionates, and mixtures thereof.

4. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -3 comprising one or more betaines selected from the group consisting of alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), and mixtures thereof.

5. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -4 comprising cocamidopropyl betaine (coco-betaine).

6. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -5 comprising one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of alkyl

alkoxylated sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

7. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -6 comprising one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, magnesium lauryl ether sulfate, magnesium lauryl sulfate, calcium lauryl ether sulfate, calcium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

8. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -7 comprising:

(c) one or more amino silicones selected from the group consisting of polyether amino silicones, amodimethicone, modified amodimethicones (such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone), amino gum silicones, and mixtures thereof.

9. The cosmetic composition of claim 8, wherein the amino silicone is selected from the group consisting of amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl

amodimethicone, amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bisamino PEG/PPG-41 /3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

10. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -9, wherein the one or more cationic conditioning agents comprises one or more polyquaternium compounds.

1 1 . The cosmetic composition of claim 10 comprising one or more polyquaternium compounds selected from the group consisting of is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-1 1 , polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-34, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.

12. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -1 1 comprising:

(e) one or more fatty dialkylamines selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, octyl dimethyl amine, decyl dimethyl amine, dodecyl dimethyl amine, coconut dimethyl amine, tetradecyl dimethyl amine, hexadecyl dimethyl amine, octadecyl dimethyl amine, behenyl dimethyl amine, oleyl dimethyl amine, hydrogenated tallow dimethyl amine, cocoacyl propryl dimethyl amine, lauryldimethylamine, , linoleamidopropyldimethylamine,

behenamidopropyldimethylamine, linoleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearyl dimethyl amine.

13. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -12 comprising one or more di-carboxylic acids.

14. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 3 comprising one or more di-carboxylic acids selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

15. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -14 comprising tartaric acid.

16. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -15 comprising: (g) one or more polyalkylene glycols.

17. The cosmetic composition of claim 16, wherein the one or more polyalkylene glycols comprises one or more polyethylene glycols.

18. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 7 comprising about 0.1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, or more preferably, about 0.1 to about 1 wt.% of the one or more polyalkylene glycols.

19. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -18 in the form of a cleansing composition, a shaving cream, a body wash, a face wash, or a shampoo.

20. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 comprising:

(a) about 50 to about 90 wt.%, preferably about 70 to about 90 wt.% water;

(b) about 1 to about 25 wt.%, preferably about 5 to about 15 wt.%, of the one or more surfactants;

(c) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt.% of the one or more amino silicones;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt.% of the one or more cationic conditioning agents that are different than the one or more surfactants of (b);

(e) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, of the one or more fatty dimethylamines; and

(f) about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.05 to about 3 wt.% of the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids.

21 . The cosmetic composition of claim 1 comprising:

(a) about 70 to about 90 wt.% water;

(b) about 5 to about 15 wt.% of one or more amphoteric surfactants and one or more anionic surfactants;

(c) about 0.1 to about 3 wt.% of one or more amino silicones;

(d) about 0.1 to about 3 wt.% of one or more polyquaternium compounds;

(e) about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, of the one or more fatty dimethylamines; and

(f) about 0.05 to about 3 wt.% of the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids.

22. The cosmetic composition of claim 21 comprising stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and tartaric acid.

23. A method for cosmetically treating the body comprising applying a cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -22 to the body, and optionally, rinsing the composition from the body.

24. A method for imparting manageability to hair comprising applying a cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -22 that is a shampoo to the hair and rinsing the shampoo from the hair.

25. A method for making a cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 -23 comprising:

(i) combining:

(a) water;

(b) one or more surfactants;

(c) one or more amino silicones; and

(d) optionally, one or more cationic conditioning agents that are different than the one or more surfactants of (b);

(ii) separately, combining:

(a) water;

(e) one or more fatty dialkylamines; and

(f) one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids; and

(iii) mixing the composition of (ii) with the composition of (i).

26. The method of making the cosmetic composition of claim 25, wherein the combination of (ii) is heated to a temperature of about 40°C to about

75°C before combination with the composition of (i).

27. The method of claim 25, wherein one or more surfactants is added to the mixture of (iii).

28. The method of claim 27, wherein the one or more surfactants that is added to the mixture of (iii) is a betaine surfactant.