WO2011064719A1 - Méthode de traitement cosmétique - Google Patents
Méthode de traitement cosmétique Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2011064719A1 WO2011064719A1 PCT/IB2010/055369 IB2010055369W WO2011064719A1 WO 2011064719 A1 WO2011064719 A1 WO 2011064719A1 IB 2010055369 W IB2010055369 W IB 2010055369W WO 2011064719 A1 WO2011064719 A1 WO 2011064719A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- adhesive
- composition
- particles
- discontinuous
- adhesive composition
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
- A61K8/027—Fibers; Fibrils
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
Definitions
- the present invention relates to cosmetic
- treatments in particular makeup for the skin or the lips. It also encompasses the treatment of the nails and the scalp.
- the majority of methods for cosmetically treating the skin or the lips comprise a step of applying
- Patent US 6 367 484 describes the use of a first composition containing a film-forming polymer
- composition before the first composition is completely dry.
- Those solid particles are preferably spheres and the desired effect is preferably a relief effect.
- composition and the second composition is in powder form.
- compositions comprising adhesive
- the adhesive employed holds the fibers, but the result is not esthetically pleasing.
- the majority of fibers are in fact bonded in a flat position and the few fibers that do not extend parallel to the skin form a small angle with the surface thereof; the overall effect is untidy. If the result is viewed close up, it is judged to be
- fastening fibers in a suitable manner becomes more difficult as their flexibility increases.
- the problem is also more difficult to overcome when the fibers are long.
- the invention aims to satisfy this need, and in first exemplary embodiments it provides a method of cosmetically treating a surface of human macroscopic keratinous material other than keratinous fibers, said surface being, for example, a surface of the skin or the lips, the method comprising the steps consisting of:
- the keratinous materials concerned in the method of the invention are, for example, the skin of the brow ridge, the eyelids, the skin of the armpits, the lips, and the scalp.
- the discontinuous adhesive surface may be formed by applying an adhesive composition forming a discontinuous deposit to the surface.
- the discontinuous adhesive surface may be formed by applying an adhesive composition forming a continuous deposit to the surface, then by applying a discontinuous deposit of a non-stick composition to the continuous deposit.
- the discontinuous adhesive surface may be formed by applying a non-stick composition forming a discontinuous deposit to the surface then by applying a continuous deposit of an adhesive composition to the discontinuous deposit.
- the discontinuous adhesive surface may be formed by applying activatable adhesive particles to the surface followed by activation of said particles by a stimulus, for example mechanical,
- the adhesive composition may be applied in order to form a discontinuous deposit on the surface to be treated, the discontinuous deposit resulting from the mode of application and/or the nature of the adhesive employed.
- the non-stick composition may be applied in a discontinuous manner over at least a portion of the adhesive
- the adhesive composition may be applied in a continuous manner to at least a portion of the non-stick composition that in turn may be applied in a discontinuous manner.
- application of the non-stick composition may result from the mode of application and/or the nature of the
- the adhesive composition employed.
- the adhesive composition may be encapsulated in non-adhesive particles, termed activatable adhesive particles, applied in the first instance to the keratinous materials. These particles may then, for example under the effect of a mechanical action, release the adhesive composition in order to form a discontinuous adhesive surface.
- a discontinuous adhesive surface by applying an adhesive composition in the form of a series of continuous, disjointed mutually parallel bands.
- a non-stick composition may be applied in the form of a series of disjoint bands that are inclined to or perpendicular to the bands of adhesive composition.
- the zones of non-stick composition covered with adhesive composition may be eliminated, either before application of the particulate composition, or after application thereof, the
- the adhesive composition may be liberated by a mechanical action such as pressure, for example with the finger, friction, or applying another composition, for example a particulate
- the proportion of the treated surface covered by adhesive islets that are not connected together may be 75% or less, preferably less than 50%.
- the coverage factor F cover age (total surface of adhesive islets that are not connected
- total extent of the treated surface may be 0.75 or less. It may be that 0.05 ⁇ F cover age - 0.75;
- 0.1 ⁇ F cover a g e ⁇ 0.5.
- the adhesive islets may have any shape, for example circular, oval, or polygonal.
- the islets may be bands or dots.
- the form factor for the islets may be 2 or less.
- discontinuous deposit means a deposit that is not in one piece, and the term “continuous deposit” means a deposit in which all sub-portions are connected together in the two dimensions of the
- discontinuous adhesive surface is synonymous with the term “discontinuous deposit of adhesive islets”.
- particulate composition means a
- composition that contains micro-objects that may have a wide variety of shapes, for example the shape of a fiber, microbead, or plate.
- the term "particle” may denote a fiber, even a long fiber.
- They may be coloring agents or other micro-objects, for example acting as a support for a biocidal active ingredient, a fragrance, or an antiperspirant active ingredient .
- micro-objects may be present in the particulate composition in a quantity of more than 30% by weight.
- the particulate composition may be in powder form.
- the method of the invention may comprise a step of additional fastening of the particles of the particulate composition.
- Said fastening may be carried out by means of a second adhesive composition, applied after depositing the particulate composition, and/or by means of an adhesive compound activated while present in the adhesive composition and/or the particles.
- the additional fastening step may be carried out after the step of applying the particulate composition. Activation may occur under the effect of a stimulus, for example mechanical, luminous, especially UV, thermal, or by reaction with the adhesive composition.
- the cosmetic treatment method of the invention may, for example, be a makeup method or a pilosity creation method.
- the invention means that a deposit of particles of the particulate composition, for example on the skin or the lips, can readily be obtained without problems relating to overloading or too much coverage.
- the deposit of particles may have good hold and it is easy for the user to achieve precisely the desired result.
- the method of the invention means that erect fibers that are well organized can be
- the method of the invention may be used for the skin or the scalp in order to re-establish pilosity altered by hair loss, skin disorders, or accidents, to thickin thinning pilosity or to obtain a coloring and/or softening effect.
- the method of the invention may be a method of making up the skin
- the method of the invention may be used to make up zones that are in relief, projecting or are recessed, such as pimples, scars, or wrinkles. It is possible, for example, to hide scars by creating or thickening pilosity.
- the method of the invention may include a step consisting in selecting the particulate
- composition adapted to the color and/or spectral
- the method of the invention may be used to recreate a hairy portion and/or to obtain a color effect.
- the invention may be used to obtain color effects, but it is not limited thereto. It is possible to create rejuvenating effects by implanting dark hairs into a zone of naturally white hairs, or novel esthetic effects by implanting fibers with a different color in a hairy zone. It is also possible, by means of the method of the invention, to protect the skin against the effects of heat, cold, or sun. In particular, the skin may be treated with sunscreens, for example anti-UV particles.
- the method of the invention may also be used for skin or lip care.
- the particles may contain or deliver active ingredients for treatment of the skin or the lips.
- the particles may also play a role in masking, capturing, or releasing odors and may, for example, limit perspiration or accelerate the evaporation of sweat.
- the method of the invention may also be useful in limiting sweating.
- the adhesive composition may comprise an adhesive adapted to maintaining and/or organizing the particles of the particulate composition on the coated surface of said adhesive composition.
- the adhesive composition may have adhesive
- the adhesive composition may be activatable, i.e. it has adhesive properties after the action of a stimulus, for example mechanical, luminous, or thermal.
- the adhesive composition may be encapsulated in non-adhesive particles, termed activatable adhesive particles, and be released to form an adhesive surface after the action of a stimulus, for example a mechanical stimulus.
- the activatable adhesive particles may be minerals and comprise calcium chloride, for example.
- the adhesive composition may be selected such that it creates a discontinuous deposit 10 of adhesive islets 1 at the surface to be treated S, as illustrated in a diagrammatic manner in Figure 1.
- the adhesive composition may be free of adhesive forming a continuous deposit on the surface to be treated.
- the mean size of the adhesive islets in particular when the particles to then be deposited are fibers, may be in the range 1 micrometer (ym) to 2 millimeters (mm) , preferably in the range 5 ym to 1 mm, more preferably in the range 10 ym to 250 ym.
- the mean size of the adhesive islets may be in the range 1 ym to 2 mm, preferably in the range 5 ym to 1 mm, more preferably in the range 10 ym to 250 ym.
- the mean size of the adhesive islets may be greater and be, for example, in the range 1 ym to 2 mm, for example in the range 50 ym to 1 mm .
- the mean distance between two adhesive islets may be in the range 1 ym to 2 mm, preferably in the range 10 ym to 500 ym.
- the density of adhesive islets on a support is determined by analysis of an image obtained with the aid of a scanning electron microscope, for example that referenced S-4 500 from the supplier
- the Applicant has observed that the presence of a discontinuous adhesive surface improves the natural appearance and the hold of the cosmetic treatment, facilitates making up and makeup removal, and may provide better esthetic results than when using an adhesive composition that forms a continuous deposit on the surface to be treated.
- the particles to be deposited are fibers, it has been observed that the presence of a discontinuous adhesive surface improves the organization of the fibers and facilitates obtaining erect fibers.
- the adhesive composition may comprise adhesive particles that can be used to obtain a deposit that retains some residual tackiness after drying and that does not form a continuous deposit.
- Said adhesive particles may have a variety of shapes and may have a largest dimension in the range 1 ym to 100 ym, or even more. They behave differently from polyisobutylene (PIB) or latex type adhesive polymers, which form liquid or dry films on drying. Despite their tacky nature, the
- adhesive particles do not coalesce. Mutual bonding of the particles may be observed, but each particle retains some or all of its individuality.
- composition may include adhesive particles that have an average size lying in the range 1 ym to 250 ym,
- average size must be understood as the granulometric statistic size at the half of the population (i.e. D(0.5)).
- the obtaining of an adhesive discontinuous surface may be the consequence of the size of the adhesive particles used.
- Adhesive particles of too small size may coalesce and form a continous film when deposited on the surface.
- adhesive particles of average size greater than 1 ym, for example lying in the range 1 ym to 250 ym.
- the adhesive composition may comprise non-fluid adhesive particles.
- non-fluid adhesive particles means that the adhesive particles have a viscosity such that they do not flow at room temperature (20°) under the only effect of gravity when deposited on the keratin material.
- the adhesive composition may also be applied by spraying or printing, for example using a spray gun or a piezoelectric printing head.
- the adhesive particles may be present in a concentration by weight before drying in the range 0.1% to 70%, preferably in the range 0.2% to 60%, preferably in the range 0.3% to 50%, preferably in the range 0.4% to 25%, preferably in the range 0.5% to 10%, more preferably in the range 1% to 5%.
- the adhesive composition may be in the form of a gel or emulsion, preferably relatively fluid, with a volatile phase allowing drying.
- the solvent weight content may be 50% or more, and is preferably greater than 70%.
- the solvent may, for example, contain water and/or an alcohol, for example ethanol.
- composition may be greater than 50%, for example greater than 70%.
- ethanol, in the adhesive composition may be greater than 50%, for example greater than 70%.
- the adhesive particles may be mixed with other components such as gelling agents, surfactants, or pigments .
- the adhesive particles may be produced with a single substance or with two or more substances.
- the adhesive particles may have a core formed from a non- adhesive substance, for example mineral or organic, and a shell formed from an adhesive coating.
- the adhesive substance or substances of the adhesive composition, in particular the above-mentioned adhesive particles, are advantageously selected from pressure- sensitive adhesives, which still have adhesive power after drying.
- the adhesive composition may in particular comprise pressure-sensitive adhesives selected, for example, from acrylic polymers, in particular acrylate and methacrylate copolymers, rubber-based or styrene copolymer-based pressure-sensitive adhesives such as styrene-isoprene- styrene (SIS) , or styrene-butadiene-styrene (SBS)
- pressure-sensitive adhesives selected, for example, from acrylic polymers, in particular acrylate and methacrylate copolymers, rubber-based or styrene copolymer-based pressure-sensitive adhesives such as styrene-isoprene- styrene (SIS) , or styrene-butadiene-styrene (SBS)
- They may also be polymers of urethane,
- polyurethanes cross-linked silicones, ethylene-vinyl acetate polymers, block copolymers based on styrene or natural gums, chloroprene, butadiene, isoprene, neoprene polymers or the like, and mixtures thereof.
- Non-limiting examples of pressure-sensitive materials are non-limiting examples of pressure-sensitive materials.
- rubber polymers that may in particular be mentioned are natural rubber (poly (cis-1 , 4-isoprene) ) , methyl-methacrylate-isoprene graft copolymers, styrene butadiene copolymers, butyl rubber, acrylonitrile- butadiene rubber, styrene-isoprene block copolymers, polybutadiene, ethylene-butylene block copolymers, polychloroprene, and mixtures thereof.
- pressure-sensitive adhesives comprising polar acrylic polymers that may be mentioned are block or statistical copolymers based on acrylic acid, alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates , as well as copolymers of said acrylics with ethylene, vinyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
- the pressure-sensitive adhesive may also be selected from mixtures of the adhesives described above.
- a particularly suitable example of a pressure- sensitive adhesive, alone or mixed with other pressure- sensitive adhesives, for use in the invention is poly (2- ethylhexylacrylate) , for example that commercially available under the trade name GEL-TAC 100G (Advanced Polymer International) , in a 40% solid matter aqueous dispersion of 15 micrometer adhesive acrylic
- Suitable pressure-sensitive adhesives that may be mentioned are butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, and acrylic acid copolymers.
- the adhesive composition may comprise an activatable adhesive composition that can in particular be used to carry out a step of additional fastening of the particles to the surface to be treated. Activation of this
- an applicator in order to deposit the adhesive composition in a discontinuous manner.
- an applicator it is possible to use small needles, a multi-outlet applicator, or a roller with thickened points, for example erect pins, which, as it passes, delivers dots of adhesive.
- an applicator to deposit the adhesive composition in a continuous manner.
- a flocked tip, a brush, or a roller may be used, or the adhesive composition may be applied by spraying or by transfer, for example using a sheet or a patch.
- a medium for example in the form of a sheet or patch, on which the adhesive composition has already been deposited, for example in the form of adhesive islets that are not connected together, and to apply the composition by transfer.
- the activatable adhesive particles may be applied using the hand or any suitable applicator.
- the adhesive agent used may then be a compound such as a branched sulfonic polyester, for example AQ 1350 from the supplier Eastman Chemicals.
- the quantity of adhesive composition deposited at the moment of application is, for example, in the range 0.1 milligrams per square centimeter (mg/cm 2 ) to 10 mg/cm ' of treated surface.
- the quantity of adhesive composition deposited is, for example, 0.2 mg/cm 2 to 5 mg/cm 2 of treated surface.
- the viscosity of the adhesive composition may be sufficient for the dots formed not to flow and spread before they dry. Such a viscosity may be high for compositions containing a low concentration of adhesive.
- Non-stick particles and non-stick composition are non-stick particles and non-stick composition
- the adhesive composition may contain both adhesive particles and non-stick
- the particles are dispersed on the surface to be treated, for example the skin, and form a deposit of adhesive islets that are not connected together, each adhesive islet possibly being surrounded by non-stick particles.
- a continuous deposit is formed with the adhesive composition, which is covered with the non-stick composition, which non-stick
- composition forms a discontinuous deposit.
- the non-stick composition is applied to form a discontinuous deposit, followed by the adhesive composition.
- the adhesive composition covers the non-stick composition, the
- non-stick compositions examples include compositions comprising a silicone-containing agent or a powder such as components with a flake-like shape, such as talc, or boron nitrides or particles of graphite or organic or mixed particles (Glitter from 3M) or non flake-like components, such as particles of silica, titanium, or iron oxide.
- a silicone-containing agent or a powder such as components with a flake-like shape, such as talc, or boron nitrides or particles of graphite or organic or mixed particles (Glitter from 3M) or non flake-like components, such as particles of silica, titanium, or iron oxide.
- Those components may, as appropriate, provide an appearance that is
- the non-stick composition After applying the non-stick composition, it is possible to remove any surplus by the action of gravity or by a mechanical action (for example by blowing) .
- the surplus may also be removed using a slightly tacky, gelled or oily surface.
- the non-stick composition may include a coloring agent or a mattifying filler.
- the non-stick composition may be used to make up relief, projecting or hollowed zones such as pimples, scars, or wrinkles.
- an applicator in order to deposit the non-stick composition in a discontinuous manner.
- use may be made of small needles, a roller with thickened points, for example erect pins, a multi-outlet applicator, a comb, or a brush.
- the particles 2 may be fastened to adhesive islets 1 and may have a largest dimension di greater than the largest dimension, d 2 , of the islets, as can be seen in Figure 2.
- the particles 2 may have a largest dimension di that is smaller than the largest dimension of the islets d 2 .
- the particulate composition may comprise particles of one or more pigments.
- the particles may optionally be reflective, depending on the desired effect.
- the particulate composition may comprise particles that are flake-like, but they may also have some other shape .
- the particles may be spherical or spheroidal in shape .
- fine-like means that the thickness e of the particle is less than its largest dimension d. As an example d/e ⁇ 10, or even d/e ⁇ 50.
- the particles may have at least one face that is flat or has a radius of curvature or 60 ym or more. This can facilitate stacking of the particle and increase their specular reflective power.
- the particles may comprise an activatable adhesive composition which in particular means that a step of additional fastening of the particles to the surface to be treated can be carried out. Activation of this compound may follow deposition of the particles of the particulate composition.
- the particulate composition may contain fibers.
- the fibers may be natural and, for example, they may be selected from hair, fur, animal hair, textile fibers, or silk.
- They may be derived from transforming a natural substance; an example is rayon.
- the particle size is preferably 10 ym or more, more preferably 20 ym, still more preferably 40 ym or more.
- the form factor of said particles may be 5 or more, preferably 10 or more, more preferably 50 or more.
- the particles may be monodisperse as regards their largest dimension, plus or minus 30%, which facilitates deposition thereof.
- particles that are monodisperse as regards their largest dimension, plus or minus 30 % " as used in the invention denotes particles for which the largest dimension has a coefficient of variation, CV, of 30% or less.
- the mean D and the standard deviation s_ may be measured over 250 particles. Especially when the
- particles are not fibers, their surface quality may be regular and not rough.
- the fibers may be flexible or rigid.
- the cross section of the fibers may be circular or oval, as with hair or fur. More generally, they may have cross sections that are
- polygonal for example triangular, square, hexagonal, or octagonal .
- the cross section of all or part of a fiber may optionally be constant on moving along its long
- Said cross section may increase or decrease with distance from the zone for fastening to the treated surface, on moving along the long direction.
- the fiber may have a section that twists on moving along the fiber.
- the fibers may be solid or hollow.
- the fibers may contain one or more materials, such as coloring agents, for example dyes or pigments.
- the fibers may in particular contain an activatable adhesive composition that provides an additional step of fastening the particles to the surface to be treated.
- the fibers may be configured to produce an
- the peripheral surface of the fibers may optionally be smooth.
- the fibers may optionally be functionalized. They may, for example, be treated, modified, or thermoformed once they have been applied, or before application.
- the fibers may optionally be rectilinear. They may, for example, have an inwardly curved portion, for example forming at least one loop. Under such circumstances, the portion of the fiber that faces the surface to be treated may have a rectilinear portion that is at least 5 mm, or preferably 1 cm, long.
- the fibers may have stiffness that changes on moving along the long direction. As an example, their stiffness may decrease on moving along the long direction, from the zones for fastening on the treated surface towards their free ends .
- the particulate composition may comprise at least two types of fibers that differ in at least one of the following: diameter, length, color, reflectance, and surface quality.
- the particles for example reflective particles, especially with a flake-like shape or in the form of fibers, may be present in a quantity of 30% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably
- the particulate composition may be reflective, in particular when a visual effect is desired.
- composition for which the reflective power is to be measured was applied to a black Bioskin® surface, sold by the supplier Beaulax, in a uniform manner at a density of 0.2 mg/cm 2 .
- the reflective power was measured using the GP-5 goniophotometer from the supplier Murakami.
- the angle of incidence was fastened at -45° and the reflectance was measured between -90° and 90°.
- the maximum reflectance, corresponding to the specular reflectance, was in general measured at 45° and is denoted R 45 .
- the minimum reflectance, which corresponded to the diffuse reflectance, was in general measured at -30° and is denoted R-30.
- the reflective power of the composition is defined
- the reflective power of the particulate composition of the invention is preferably more than 5, more preferably more than 7, and still more preferably more than 10.
- nacre means particles that may be of any shape, being iridescent or otherwise, and especially as produced in the shells of certain mollusks or
- the color effect obtained corresponds to one of the colors of the rainbow, or gold or silver.
- Reflective flake-like particles fall into two major categories :
- flake-like particles having at least two parallel faces consisting of a single optical uniform material are pigments with a metallic effect such as metallic flakes, for example aluminum flakes, or metal alloys, such as copper-zinc, silica particles, synthetic mica, glass, or pigments with a transparent effect such as crystalline bismuth
- Examples of metallic pigments that may be mentioned are aluminum, bronze, or copper powders coated with Si02 sold under the trade name VISIONAIRE by the supplier ECKART .
- Examples of glass flakes that may be mentioned are the products sold under the trade name SILKYFLAKE by the supplier Nippon Sheet Glass.
- pigments based on bismuth oxychloride examples include BIRON pigments sold by the supplier Merck and PEARL products sold by the supplier FARMAQUIMIA .
- flake-like particles with a layered structure examples are the flake-like particles formed from natural or synthetic mica coated with at least one layer of metallic oxide selected, for example, from oxides of titanium, especially Ti0 2 , iron, especially Fe 2 0 3 , tin, chromium, barium sulfate, and the following materials: MgF 2 , CrF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si0 2 , A1 2 0 3 , MgO, Y 2 0 3 , Se0 3 , SiO, Hf0 2 , Zr0 2 , Ce0 2 , Nb 2 0 5 , Ta 2 0 5 , MoS 2 , and mixtures or alloys thereof.
- metallic oxide selected, for example, from oxides of titanium, especially Ti0 2 , iron, especially Fe 2 0 3 , tin, chromium, barium sulfate, and the following materials: MgF 2 , CrF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe,
- particles comprising a substrate of synthetic mica coated with titanium dioxide, glass particles coated with brown iron oxide, titanium oxide, tin oxide, or one of their mixtures, such as those sold under the trade name
- mice titanium coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with an organic dye, and nacrous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride may also be mentioned.
- the term "mica titanium” means mica coated with Ti0 2 .
- Particles of mica of surfaces that are superimposed with at least two successive layers of metallic oxide and/or organic dye substances may also be mentioned.
- the nacres may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold, and/or coppery color or glint.
- nacres that may be introduced into the particulate composition that may be mentioned are gold colored nacres, especially those sold by the
- glass-based interference particles such as Ronastar from the supplier MERCK or based on synthetic mica such as Sunshine from the supplier SUN CHEMICAL or PROMINENCE from the supplier NIKON KOKEN. It is also possible to mention, as reflective particles, flakes based on PET such as those sold under the reference Disco by the supplier GLITTEREX or under the reference MICROGLITTER by the supplier VENTURE
- the reflective particles may, for example, have at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially of a reflective material.
- the reflective particles may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular of at least one metal or metallic material.
- the substrate may be of an organic or inorganic monomaterial or multimaterial . More
- glasses particularly, it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metallic oxides, aluminas, silicas, and
- silicates in particular aluminosilicates and
- Reflective particles have in particular been
- JP-A-09188830 JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
- reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal
- particles comprising a substrate of borosilicate coated with silver, sold by the supplier Nippon Sheet Glass under the trade name METASHINE.
- the particulate composition may also comprise spherical particles, which may optionally be reflective, as well as oblong particles.
- the particles may, for example, be formed from a plastics material, for example Expansel ® , from glass, or from wax. Dimensions of particles employed
- the largest dimension of the particles when they are not fibers, may be in the range 1 ym and 10 mm, preferably in the range 5 ym to 500 ym, more preferably in the range 10 ym to 200 ym.
- the mean particle largest dimension may be smaller than, equal to, or greater than the mean size of the adhesive islets, especially at the moment of their formation.
- particulate composition (other than fibers) denotes the statistical granulometric dimension at half the
- the mean particle largest dimension is larger than the mean size of the adhesive islets, especially at the moment of their formation.
- the largest dimension, or even the mean largest dimension, of the particles may be greater than the mean size of the adhesive islets, especially at the moment of their formation, for example more than double this size, for example more than four times this size .
- the largest dimension or even the mean largest dimension of the particles may be greater than the mean distance between two adhesive islets, especially at the moment of formation of the islets of adhesive composition, for example more than double this distance, for example more than four times this distance.
- the fibers may have a diameter in the range 1 ym to 1 mm, preferably in the range 10 ym to 200 ym.
- the fibers may have a length of 0.1 mm or more, for example 0.3 mm or more, or even 1 mm.
- the fibers have a length in the range 1 mm to 50 mm, for example in the range 2 mm to 30 mm.
- the length of the fibers may be greater than the mean size of the adhesive islets, especially at the moment of their formation, for example more than double this size, for example more than five times this size.
- the length of the fibers may be greater than the mean distance separating two adhesive islets, especially at the moment of formation of the adhesive islets, for example more than double this distance, for example more than five times this distance.
- the free portion of at least 50%, for example 75% of the deposited fibers may be more than 50%, for example 75%, of their length.
- the particulate composition may have or may be free of a liquid binder.
- the quantity of liquid binder is less than 20% by weight, more preferably less than 15 O " ⁇ 5"6 by weight, so as not to affect the fluidity of the particulate composition too greatly.
- the particulate composition may include a volatile solvent .
- volatile solvent as used in the context of the invention means a solvent capable of evaporating in contact with keratinous materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, having non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular in the range 0.13 pascals (Pa) to 40000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg) to 300 mm Hg) , in particular in the range 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 mm Hg to 100 mm Hg) , and more
- the volatile solvents are selected from solvents that evaporate at a rate of 0.002 milligrams per square centimeter per minute
- the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely without stirring, ventilation being provided by a fan (rate of rotation 2700 revolutions per minute (rpm) and dimensions of 80 x 80 x 42 mm, for example the fan with reference 8550 N from PAPST-MOTOREN; the flow rate corresponds to approximately 50 m 3 /hour) disposed in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm relative to the bottom of the crystallizer.
- a fan rate of rotation 2700 revolutions per minute (rpm) and dimensions of 80 x 80 x 42 mm, for example the fan with reference 8550 N from PAPST-MOTOREN; the flow rate corresponds to approximately 50 m 3 /hour
- the mass of the remaining solvent is measured in the crystallizer.
- the rates of evaporation are expressed by weight (in mg) of solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2 ) and per unit time (minute) .
- monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, C3-C4 ketones such as acetone, dimethyl ether or water .
- volatile solvents that may be mentioned are volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially Cs-Ci 6 branched alkanes such as C8 ⁇ Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also termed isoparaffins ) , such as isododecane (also known as
- isodecane isohexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, Cs-Ci 6 branched esters, iso-hexyl
- neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.
- Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates,
- the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof .
- volatile silicones may be used as the volatile solvent, such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, for example, in particular those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 ⁇ 6 square meters per second (m 2 /s)), and in particular containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, said silicones possibly including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- cyclotetrasiloxane decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl
- the particulate composition may contain at least one or more coloring agents, at least one sunscreen, at least one active ingredient for the treatment of the skin or the lips, non-reflective particles such as diffusing particles, UV screens, or transparent or translucent particles.
- any applicator that is capable of picking up a particulate composition for example comprising a foam or flocked tip, may be used.
- the applicator may comprise a flat tip that is symmetrical in the form of a body of revolution, either cylindrical conical.
- the particulate composition may also be applied using a jet of a vector gas, for example using an aerosol can under dimethylether pressure, or by a method of ejection by centrifuging or by an electrostatic method.
- the fineness of the foam or the thickness of the flocking may be adjusted to allow the user to take an optimized quantity of composition.
- the applicator includes a magnetic or magnetizable tip, which may facilitate picking up particles that have a magnetic susceptibility.
- the applicator may comprise an electromagnet. These particles may also be subjected to an electric or magnetic field after being deposited, in order to orientate them.
- a medium for example in the form of a sheet or patch on which the particulate composition has already been deposited in the form of a particulate layer.
- the medium may be a paper, a nonwoven fabric, or a plastics material.
- an applicator with suction comprising, for example, a tip covered with a surface that is porous to air and with fineness that prevents the particles from passing through.
- the tip is connected to a source of suction, for example a pump or a bulb. The user sucks in a small quantity of composition to pick it up and as it comes into contact with the skin, reduces or cancels the suction so that the composition can be deposited.
- suction techniques may be used to pick them up and propel them to bring them into contact with the surface to be treated.
- application means may be suitable for applying the particulate composition.
- An applicator with the shape of the surface to be treated may be used to apply the required quantity of composition in a single action.
- an applicator that is adapted to treating the cheeks, the contour of the eyes, or the hands may be used.
- the particles are fibers, they may also be applied to the surface to be treated by holding them at one of their ends. As an example, the fibers are held by electrostatic attraction on a support allowing them to be applied.
- the application may be carried out without rubbing the applicator on the surface to be treated.
- the user may re-apply the particulate composition when wanted without necessarily having to re-apply the adhesive composition .
- the whole surface does not need to be treated with the adhesive composition.
- the adhesive composition may be amply applied and the particulate composition may be applied in a pattern.
- a non-stick composition for example a transparent powder, may be applied to the first two compositions. This non-stick composition prevents the zones of adhesive composition not covered by the
- composition generally and to apply another non-stick composition, for example transparent powder, in a
- the particulate composition of the invention is applied, and becomes fastened on the treated surface only at the zones that have not received the non ⁇ stick composition. On eliminating the non-fastened particulate composition, the pattern is observed to appear .
- the adhesive composition may also be applied in a pattern, then the particulate composition may be applied to the same zone. The pattern then appears during elimination of the non fastened particles.
- the particles are fibers
- composition then to apply the fibers, and then to apply a composition comprising particles of the invention other than fibers in order to fill in the adhesive islets that have no fibers .
- All or some of the particles of the particulate composition may themselves be adhesive.
- the particulate composition may be in the form of a free powder, i.e. it is capable of flowing under gravity when the receptacle in which it is contained is turned over.
- the adhesive composition may generate particles, for example on drying.
- the adhesive composition may contain substances that are capable of aggregating or crystallizing, such as waxes, for example.
- agents providing a spreading effect may be added to the adhesive composition, for example a low surface tension compound and/or an agent that reduces the surface tension, so as to enable the adhesive
- composition to be spread over the whole of the surface to be treated by a single contact.
- the deposit of the particulate composition may be pressed to force it to take on a flattened shape.
- the fibers may be held in bundles, e.g. spaced apart, by a removable support.
- the fibers are retained in bundles in a matrix of a hydrosoluble material and after carrying out the method, the matrix may be eliminated in order to release the fibers.
- a second adhesive composition may be used, applied after depositing the particulate composition, and
- thermofusible wax comprising a resin or a thermofusible wax, for example.
- Said second adhesive composition may be different from the adhesive composition that was applied initially.
- the adhesive composition may
- Activation of the compound may be subsequent to depositing the particles of the particulate composition.
- the particles comprise an activatable adhesive compound that may be used in
- activation may occur in response to a stimulus: heat, UV radiation, mechanical action (for example pressure with a finger or application of another compound) , or reaction with the adhesive composition.
- the compound may be activated subsequently to depositing the particles of the
- a second adhesive composition When a second adhesive composition is applied after depositing the particulate composition, it may be applied by spraying or printing, or using a flocked tip, a brush, or a roller.
- the second adhesive composition may be applied by transfer using a sheet or a patch.
- Figures 3 to 5 are diagrams showing an example of a cosmetic treatment method in accordance with the
- a discontinuous adhesive surface 10 constituted by a discontinuous deposit of adhesive islets 1 is created on the surface to be treated S, as can be seen in Figure 3.
- particles, shown in a non-limiting manner as being in the form of fibers 2c carrying an adhesive compound that has not yet been activated at its enlarged end 30, are applied, as can be seen in Figure 4.
- the adhesive islets 1 fasten the particles 2c and aid in their organization on the surface S.
- the step of additional fastening of the particles is then carried out.
- the activatable compound at the enlarged end 30 of the fibers 2c means that, after activation thereof, additional bonds 20 are available for participating in fastening the fibers 2c on the surface A, as can be seen in Figure 5.
- particles other than fibers such as flakes or microbeads, containing an activatable compound.
- keratinous fibers in particular a surface of the skin or the lips, and a non-stick composition suitable for forming a discontinuous deposit and for partially
- non-stick composition suitable for forming a discontinuous deposit of non-stick particles on a surface of human macroscopic keratinous material other than keratinous fibers, in particular a surface of the skin or the lips, and an adhesive composition suitable for forming a continuous deposit and for least partially covering the non-stick composition so as to form a discontinuous adhesive surface;
- the adhesive composition may have adhesive properties at the moment of its application to the keratinous material, or it may be activatable.
- kits of the invention may also include, in a common package, a second adhesive composition for
- kits of the invention may include, in a common package, a fourth applicator for applying the second adhesive composition.
- kits of the invention may also include a device for activation of said compound such as a heating device or a source of UV light, for example.
- a device for activation of said compound such as a heating device or a source of UV light, for example.
- compositions, the particulate composition and the optional second adhesive composition may optionally be identical.
- the applicators for applying the adhesive are the applicators for applying the adhesive
- compositions, the optional non-stick composition, the optional second adhesive composition and the particulate composition may optionally be identical.
- the applicator for applying the non-stick is the applicator for applying the non-stick
- composition may be used to obtain a continuous or
- the applicator for applying the non-stick is the applicator for applying the non-stick
- composition may be used to obtain a discontinuous non ⁇ stick deposit.
- the adhesive composition, the optional non-stick composition, the particulate composition, any second adhesive composition and the applicator or applicators may be proffered to the user within a common package in the form of a kit.
- the adhesive composition, any non-stick composition, the optional adhesive composition and the particulate composition may be packaged separately.
- the adhesive or non-stick composition may be any suitable adhesive or non-stick composition.
- the applicator could be a roller delivering adhesive or non-stick composition so that a discontinuous deposit is formed therewith.
- the adhesive or non-stick composition may be introduced into the roller, the pores of the roller allowing it to be distributed.
- the kit may comprise just one adhesive composition, an optional non-stick composition, an optional second adhesive composition and at least two different
- compositions may be packaged separately in a common package.
- the kit may comprise just one adhesive composition, an optional non-stick composition, an optional second adhesive composition and at least two types of fibers. These compositions may be packaged separately in a common package.
- the receptacle comprising the adhesive composition and that comprising the particulate composition may be joined together, via a side or a base, for example.
- the kit may comprise a means for eliminating the zones of the non-stick composition covered with adhesive composition either before application of the particulate composition, or after application thereof, elimination being carried out, for example, by a mechanical action such as friction, blowing, suction or by bringing in a medium to which the adhesive composition covering the non-stick composition adheres and is torn off with the medium when the medium is removed, while the adhesive composition in contact with the surface to be treated remains adhering thereto.
- the kit may include a means for removing surplus particulate composition, for example by aspiration, friction or magnetic or electrostatic attraction.
- the particles may have a color close to the color of the surface to be treated (skin, lips etc) , or of the natural pilosity.
- Adhesive composition :
- HEC Hydroxy ethyl cellulose
- a composition of black particles from the supplier Glitterex having the following formulation was then applied using a brush:
- Example 1 The result of Example 1 was compared with that obtained by applying an adhesive composition forming a continuous film (AQ 1350, 4.4% in ethanol) followed by application of the same composition of nacres as above.
- Example 1 of the invention was more natural than with the test outside the scope of the invention of comparative Example 1. It was also observed that the result varied less over time.
- Example 1 The adhesive composition of Example 1 was applied the eyelids with the aid of a brush or a roller, then a loose powder eyeshadow composition having the following formulation was applied.
- Isononyl isonanoate 3 A highly esthetically pleasing makeup was obtained, with limited overloading and limited loss of particles over time.
- the adhesive composition with the following composition was applied to the face using a roller:
- Adhesive composition Gel-Tac 600D* 10
- the adhesive composition was applied with a finger to the surface to be treated followed by waiting for approximately 1 minute. By this stage, the solvent had been eliminated.
- Example 4 The result obtained in Example 4 was compared with that obtained by applying an adhesive composition forming a continuous film (AQ 1350, 4.4% in ethanol) followed by applying the same fibers as above.
- a composition containing an adhesive was applied to the skin.
- a composition containing an adhesive was applied to the skin.
- Example 5 Application was carried out using a foam roller as described in Example 5. Thus, the adhesive coating obtained was discontinuous. Each adhesive islet was 1 mm in diameter and was spaced from the neighboring one by 2 mm.
- propellant was used to apply a powder constituted by particles of starch impregnated with a bactericidal agent (triclozan) and a fragrance.
- bactericidal agent triclozan
- fragrance a bactericidal agent
- the bactericidal agent and the fragrance respectively represented 0.5% and 1% by weight relative to the weight of the starch.
- a brush was used to eliminate the powder that had not adhered.
- Adhesive composition :
- the adhesive composition was applied to the surface to be treated, for example the zone of the lips, followed by waiting for approximately 1 minute. By this stage, the solvent had been eliminated.
- a silica powder was applied in order to define the outline of the lips to provide them with a harmonious shape.
- This example involved a hairy zone (scalp, eyebrows or armpits) .
- Example 7 was applied to the surface of the skin, followed by waiting for approximately 3 minutes. By this stage, the solvent had been eliminated.
- hydrochloride for the armpit zone
- a composition containing 10% of AQ 1350 (dry matter weight) and 10% of alginate was prepared. The remainder was demineralized water.
- composition could fall into a receptacle in the form of droplets.
- the composition was then placed in a receptacle and poured via a tube under pressure to exit in the form of droplets .
- the droplets fell into a receptacle containing 5% calcium chloride.
- cosmetic particles such as nacres could be applied .
- the activatable adhesive particles are applied and then, using a finger, cosmetic particles such as nacres are applied. Application activates the adhesive
- the invention is not limited to the examples described.
- particles other than those illustrated in Examples 1 to 9 may be applied to the surface to be treated.
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
La présente invention a pour objet une méthode de traitement cosmétique d'une surface (S) de matériaux kératineux macroscopiques humains autres que des fibres kératineuses, spécialement une surface de la peau ou les lèvres, comprenant au moins les étapes suivantes : la création d'une surface adhésive discontinue sur la surface (S) ; et l'application d'une composition particulaire sur ladite surface adhésive discontinue.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0958298 | 2009-11-24 | ||
FR0958298A FR2952820B1 (fr) | 2009-11-24 | 2009-11-24 | Procede de traitement cosmetique |
US29518510P | 2010-01-15 | 2010-01-15 | |
US61/295,185 | 2010-01-15 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2011064719A1 true WO2011064719A1 (fr) | 2011-06-03 |
Family
ID=42358177
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/IB2010/055369 WO2011064719A1 (fr) | 2009-11-24 | 2010-11-23 | Méthode de traitement cosmétique |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
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FR (1) | FR2952820B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2011064719A1 (fr) |
Cited By (7)
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FR2973238A1 (fr) * | 2011-03-31 | 2012-10-05 | Oreal | Procede de traitement de la transpiration humaine utilisant un polymere filmogene hydrophobe et un polymere filmogene hydrophile |
JP2015502828A (ja) * | 2011-12-23 | 2015-01-29 | ロレアル | メイクアップ方法 |
WO2015161009A1 (fr) * | 2014-04-16 | 2015-10-22 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Dispositif et procédé d'application de composition cosmétique |
CN106029173A (zh) * | 2013-12-27 | 2016-10-12 | 欧莱雅 | 对角蛋白材料进行化妆的转移装置和方法 |
EP3613411A4 (fr) * | 2017-04-18 | 2020-12-30 | Kao Corporation | Procédé de production de revêtement |
EP3613410A4 (fr) * | 2017-04-18 | 2021-01-06 | Kao Corporation | Méthode de production d'un film cosmétique |
EP3613405A4 (fr) * | 2017-04-19 | 2021-01-13 | Kao Corporation | Procédé de formation d'un film de revêtement |
Families Citing this family (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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FR3090282A1 (fr) * | 2018-12-21 | 2020-06-26 | L'oreal | Procédé de pose de fibres sur une zone des matières kératiniques humaines |
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FR2973238A1 (fr) * | 2011-03-31 | 2012-10-05 | Oreal | Procede de traitement de la transpiration humaine utilisant un polymere filmogene hydrophobe et un polymere filmogene hydrophile |
JP2021120014A (ja) * | 2011-12-23 | 2021-08-19 | ロレアル | メイクアップ方法 |
RU2764130C2 (ru) * | 2011-12-23 | 2022-01-13 | Л'Ореаль | Косметическое устройство, набор, содержащий данное устройство, а также способы нанесения макияжа |
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JP2015502828A (ja) * | 2011-12-23 | 2015-01-29 | ロレアル | メイクアップ方法 |
CN106029173A (zh) * | 2013-12-27 | 2016-10-12 | 欧莱雅 | 对角蛋白材料进行化妆的转移装置和方法 |
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WO2015161009A1 (fr) * | 2014-04-16 | 2015-10-22 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Dispositif et procédé d'application de composition cosmétique |
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EP3613411A4 (fr) * | 2017-04-18 | 2020-12-30 | Kao Corporation | Procédé de production de revêtement |
US11253439B2 (en) | 2017-04-18 | 2022-02-22 | Kao Corporation | Method for producing cosmetic coating |
EP3613410A4 (fr) * | 2017-04-18 | 2021-01-06 | Kao Corporation | Méthode de production d'un film cosmétique |
EP3613405A4 (fr) * | 2017-04-19 | 2021-01-13 | Kao Corporation | Procédé de formation d'un film de revêtement |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR2952820A1 (fr) | 2011-05-27 |
FR2952820B1 (fr) | 2015-10-30 |
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