WO2011003596A2 - Préparation cosmétique parfumée contenant de l'acide glycyrrhétinique - Google Patents

Préparation cosmétique parfumée contenant de l'acide glycyrrhétinique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011003596A2
WO2011003596A2 PCT/EP2010/004126 EP2010004126W WO2011003596A2 WO 2011003596 A2 WO2011003596 A2 WO 2011003596A2 EP 2010004126 W EP2010004126 W EP 2010004126W WO 2011003596 A2 WO2011003596 A2 WO 2011003596A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
preparation
ethylhexyl
cosmetic preparation
use according
compounds
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2010/004126
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2011003596A3 (fr
Inventor
Lucia Zanforlin Trede
Claudia Steikert
Alexandra Blohm
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to EP10731472A priority Critical patent/EP2451433A2/fr
Publication of WO2011003596A2 publication Critical patent/WO2011003596A2/fr
Publication of WO2011003596A3 publication Critical patent/WO2011003596A3/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00Formulations or additives for perfume preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing glycyrrhetinic acid and perfumes.
  • Moisturizing and moisturizing the skin Frequently they are added active ingredients that regenerate the skin or protect against the harmful effects of UV radiation.
  • Cosmetics usually contain a number of perfumes, which are intended to mask unpleasant odors of cooking ingredients and the
  • fragrance to give the individual, manufacturer-typical smell.
  • a disadvantage of the prior art is that the scent perfume formed from perfumes is only limited storage stability. In particular, under the influence of heat and light, premature escape of the more volatile perfume components or thermal decomposition or reaction of individual constituents may occur on a regular basis. Even under the influence of light, it can lead to the decomposition or reaction of the individual perfume ingredients, as most
  • Perfumes via reactive groups for example aldehyde or keto functions
  • a cosmetic preparation comprising a) glycyrrhetinic acid and
  • Cosmetics are usually examined and evaluated by an olfactory trained specialist with the help of odor tests. This test method was also based on the present invention.
  • the glycyrrhetinic acid according to the invention is also known to the experts under the chemical name 3 ⁇ -hydroxy-11-oxoolean-12-ene-30-acid (generic name: enoxolone, bioson).
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the perfume substances used are one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of the compounds linalool, benzyl benzoates, hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexenes
  • Butylphenyl methylpropional, geraniol, alpha-isomethyl-ionone can be used.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the perfume substances used are one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of the compounds linalool, benzyl benzoates, hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexenes
  • Carboxaldehyde, hexyl cinnamal, benzyl salicylates, citronellol, coumarin can be used.
  • Particularly preferred embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains no nitromusschus compounds such as musk ambrette, musk mosquito, musk xylene, musk ketone.
  • the preparation according to the invention can be present as an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic preparation or gel, as a hydrodispersion or as an emulsion.
  • the preferred embodiment according to the invention is the emulsion.
  • preparation according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, then it is
  • the emulsion is an O / W emulsion (oil-in-water emulsion).
  • preparation according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, it is
  • the preparation comprises one or more O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of the compounds glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, ceteareth-20, PEG-40 stearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, sucrose
  • O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of the compounds glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, ceteareth-20, PEG-40 stearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, sucrose
  • these O / W emulsifiers according to the invention may advantageously be present in a concentration of from 0.001 to 10% by weight and preferably in a concentration of from 0.1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has a pH of from 5 to 8.
  • the pH can be advantageously adjusted according to the invention with the aid of citric acid / citrate buffer, phosphoric acid / phosphate buffer or lactic acid / lactate buffer.
  • the preparation according to the invention comprises one or more active substances selected from the group of the compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine , Creatinine, taurine, ⁇ -alanine, licochalcone A,
  • Glyceryl glucose, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin D and / or its derivatives Glyceryl glucose, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin D and / or its derivatives.
  • the preparation according to the invention comprises one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts; 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts; 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts; 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene sulfonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid salts; 2,2'-methylene-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol); 2- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetrasulfonic acid salts;
  • Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl-butamidotriazone); 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine with the CAS No.
  • the preparation contains as UV filter 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene).
  • the preparation 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (octocrylene) in a concentration of 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation , contains.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane as a further UV filter.
  • the preparation contains 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane in a concentration of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • UV filter system a mixture of 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4 Bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), 2- Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts and titanium dioxide.
  • UV filter system a mixture of 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4 Bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hex
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation according to the invention contains one or more compounds selected from the group of alcohols, diols, glycols, glycerol.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains humectants such as glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, Propylene Glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine Soy, Ethylhexyloxyglycerol,
  • humectants such as glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, Propylene Glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine Soy, Ethylhexyloxyglycerol,
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which are e.g. B. the sensory and cosmetic
  • Starch and starch derivatives such as, for example, tapioca starch,
  • Pigments which have neither primarily a UV filter effect nor a coloring effect (such as. For example, boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ® (CAS no. 7631-86-9), talc, Lauroyl Lysine and Acrylonitrile- methacrylonitriles-methyl methacrylates.
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning agents.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1, 3-dio
  • Embodiments of the present invention that are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains, as thickener, one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds acrylate / C 10 -C 30 -alkyl acrylate, xanthan gum, tapioca starch.
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservative substances.
  • Embodiments preferred according to the invention are then characterized in that the preparation contains methylparaben, propylparaben, and / or phenoxyethanol.
  • the oil phase of the preparation according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such.
  • Cocoglyceride olive oil, special flowering oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • Also advantageous according to the invention are z.
  • natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can furthermore be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, dibutyl adipate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate,
  • oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, are advantageous z.
  • tylglykoldiheptanoat or oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 2 .i 3 alkyl lactate, di-C 12 -i 3 -Alkyltartrat , Triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisorboride. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations of the invention has a content of Ci 2 -i 5 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous oil components are also z.
  • Butyloctyl salicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from the company CP Hall
  • tridecyl salicylate which is available under the trade name Cosmacol ESI from the company Sasol
  • C12-C15 Alkyl salicylate available under the tradename Dermol NS from Alzo
  • hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB).
  • the oil phase can also advantageously contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C13- 16 isoparaffin and isohexadecane.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C13- 16 isoparaffin and isohexadecane.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squal
  • the preparations according to the invention may furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example the
  • R are each independently hydrogen, Ci -24- alkyl (such as methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or ToIyI), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiOi i5 is selected from the range of 1: 1 to 30: 1;
  • siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil, which are characterized by
  • the amount used being such that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or of the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
  • the siloxane elastomer (s) are in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for example available from DOW CORNING under the trade designations DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils of hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
  • the preparation comprises one or more lipophilic components selected from the group of compounds myristyl myristate, octyldodecanol, C 12 -C 5 -, contains benzoate, Butylenglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate Ceatylalkohol.
  • preparations for the care of the skin are preparations for cosmetic sunscreen, skin care (for example for the prevention and treatment of skin aging) and decorative cosmetics.
  • the preparations may be sprayable or may be presented on a carrier (eg cloth).

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique contenant de l'acide glycyrrhétinique et des substances odorantes.
PCT/EP2010/004126 2009-07-06 2010-07-06 Préparation cosmétique parfumée contenant de l'acide glycyrrhétinique WO2011003596A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP10731472A EP2451433A2 (fr) 2009-07-06 2010-07-06 Préparation cosmétique parfumée contenant de l'acide glycyrrhétinique

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200910032244 DE102009032244A1 (de) 2009-07-06 2009-07-06 Glycyrrhetinsäure enthaltende, parfümierte kosmetische Zubereitung
DE102009032244.2 2009-07-06

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2011003596A2 true WO2011003596A2 (fr) 2011-01-13
WO2011003596A3 WO2011003596A3 (fr) 2013-02-07

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EP (1) EP2451433A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102009032244A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2011003596A2 (fr)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004009038A2 (fr) 2002-07-18 2004-01-29 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Preparations cosmetiques a proprietes antibacteriennes
DE102006009783A1 (de) 2006-03-01 2007-09-06 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung kosmetischer oder dermatologische Zubereitungen enthaltend Glycyrrhetin und/oder Glycyrrhizin und 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin t zur Steigerung der Pigmentierung der Humanhaut
DE102006009850A1 (de) 2006-03-01 2007-09-06 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin zur Herstellung kosmetischer Zubereitungen zur Bräunung der Haut
DE102007041473A1 (de) 2007-08-31 2009-03-05 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin zur Herstellung kosmetischer Zubereitungen zur Bräunung der Haut

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2000512663A (ja) * 1996-02-21 2000-09-26 ジボーダン―ルール(アンテルナシヨナル)ソシエテ アノニム フレイグランス先駆体
FR2868949B1 (fr) * 2004-04-19 2006-06-09 Oreal Kit de formulation d'un produit cosmetique
FR2895257A1 (fr) * 2005-12-22 2007-06-29 Oreal Actif pour le traitement du contour des yeux.
DE102007041472A1 (de) * 2007-08-31 2009-03-05 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Glycyrrhetinsäure und Dihydroxyaceton und kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, diese Wirkstoffkombination enthaltend
DE102008015428A1 (de) * 2008-03-20 2009-09-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kühlende Zubereitungen für den humanen Haut- und/oder Schleimhautkontakt mit einem Gehalt an (1R,2S,5R)-2-Isopropyl-5-methyl-N-(2-(pyridin-2-yl)ethyl-cyclohexancarboxamid und/oder (1R,2S,5R)-N-(4-(Cyanomethyl)-phenyl)-2-isopropyl-5-methylcyclohexancarboxamid
DE102008031480A1 (de) * 2008-07-03 2010-01-07 Merck Patent Gmbh Salze enthaltend ein Pyrimidincarbonsäure-Derivat
DE102009015868A1 (de) * 2009-04-01 2009-11-26 Clariant International Limited Kammförmige, kationische Copolymere, deren Herstellung und Verwendung in kosmetischen, pharmazeutischen und dermatologischen Formulierungen

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004009038A2 (fr) 2002-07-18 2004-01-29 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Preparations cosmetiques a proprietes antibacteriennes
DE102006009783A1 (de) 2006-03-01 2007-09-06 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung kosmetischer oder dermatologische Zubereitungen enthaltend Glycyrrhetin und/oder Glycyrrhizin und 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin t zur Steigerung der Pigmentierung der Humanhaut
DE102006009850A1 (de) 2006-03-01 2007-09-06 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin zur Herstellung kosmetischer Zubereitungen zur Bräunung der Haut
DE102007041473A1 (de) 2007-08-31 2009-03-05 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin zur Herstellung kosmetischer Zubereitungen zur Bräunung der Haut

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Publication number Publication date
DE102009032244A1 (de) 2011-01-13
WO2011003596A3 (fr) 2013-02-07
EP2451433A2 (fr) 2012-05-16

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