WO2010070235A2

WO2010070235A2 - Makeup composition for keratin materials including at least one non-cationic oxidised polysaccharide

Info

Publication number: WO2010070235A2
Application number: PCT/FR2009/052588
Authority: WO
Inventors: Gérard Malle; Michel Philippe
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2008-12-19
Filing date: 2009-12-17
Publication date: 2010-06-24
Also published as: WO2010070235A3; FR2940073B1; FR2940073A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic makeup composition for keratin materials including, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) 5 to 95 wt % of fillers and/or pigments relative to the total weight of the composition; one or more non-cationic oxidises polysaccharides with formula (I) and/or the organic or inorganic carboxylic acid salts thereof; (ii) P-(CHO)_m (COOH)_nin which: P is a polysaccharide chain made up of monosaccharides including 5 carbon atoms or more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more than 6 carbon atoms and specifically 6 carbon atoms; m + n is at least equal to 1; m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS(CHO)) is in the interval from 0.001 to 2, preferably from 0.005 to 1,5; n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS(COOH)) is in the interval from 0 to 3, preferably from 0.001 to 2.7.

Description

Makeup composition for keratin materials comprising at least one non-cationic oxidized polysaccharide

The field of the invention relates to the makeup of keratin materials. By "keratin materials" is meant the skin and its integuments, and in particular the skin, the lips, the eyelashes and / or the nails.

The makeup compositions of the keratin materials generally contain a proportion of dyestuffs in particulate form greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The formulation of makeup compositions must take into account the dispersion of these dyestuffs and the stability of said compositions. Moreover, it is also sought to optimize the properties of color fastness after application to the skin, and / or non-transfer properties, in the particular case of foundations for example.

It is in this context that the inventors propose using non-cationic oxidized polysaccharides in make-up compositions, especially as emulsifying and / or film-forming agents, to improve the formulation of said make-up compositions and / or their cosmetic texture properties, of holding and non transfer.

In oxidized form, said non-cationic polysaccharides according to the invention have a better formability (especially limited solubility and compatibility in cosmetic media) than the native non-oxidized forms, in particular for the higher molecular weight families that are the starches and cellulose.

Unexpectedly and surprisingly, the Applicant has found that families of non-cationic oxidized polysaccharide type polymers may have a great cosmetic interest in makeup applications. The physicochemical properties specific to these polysaccharides, more polar in particular than the native polysaccharides, not only make it possible to impart to them excellent cold solubility (transparent solutions) but also surfactant properties making it possible inter alia to use them as emulsifiers for oils. They also have film-forming properties and / or original cosmetic properties (texture, touch).

The invention therefore particularly relates to a cosmetic makeup composition for keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) from 5 to 95% by weight of fillers and / or pigments relative to the total weight of the composition;

(ii) one or more non-cationic oxidized polysaccharides of formula (I) and / or their organic or inorganic carboxylic acid salts P- (CHO) _m (COOH) _n (I) in which:

P represents a polysaccharide chain consisting of monosaccharides comprising 5 carbon atoms or more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms and more particularly 6 carbon atoms.

m + n is greater than or equal to 1,

m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)) is in the range from 0.001 to 2, preferably from 0.005 to 1.5. n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxyl groups (DS (COOH)) is in the range from 0 to 3, preferably from 0.001 to 2.7.

NON-CATIONIC OXIDE POLYSACCHARIDE

Oxidized polysaccharide polymers and in particular polymers having the following definition prove to be particularly effective

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is essentially characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one non-cationic oxidized polysaccharide of formula (I) and / or their salts of organic or inorganic carboxylic acids: (CHO) _m (COOH) _n (I) wherein:

m + n is greater than or equal to 1, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)) is in the range from 0.001 to 2, preferably from 0.005 to 1.5. n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxyl groups (DS (COOH)) is in the range from 0 to 3, preferably from 0.001 to 2.7.

By degree of substitution DS (CHO) or DS (COOH) polysaccharides according to the invention means the ratio between the number of oxidized carbons in an aldehyde or carboxyl group for all repeating units and the number of elemental monosaccharides (even open by pre-oxidation) constituting the polysaccharide.

The CHO and COOH groups can be obtained during the oxidation of certain carbon atoms, for example in the C2, C3 or C6 position, of a saccharide unit with 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the oxidation can be C 2 and C 3, more particularly from 0.01% to 75% by number, and preferably from 0.1% to 50% by number of the cycles which may have been opened;

The polysaccharide chain, represented by P, is preferably chosen from:

fructans or fructosans, in particular inulin and graminane glucans, in particular starch, carboxymethyl starch, pectin, amylopectin, amylose, cellulose and its alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl derivatives, such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose; curdlane, dextran, pullulan; galactans, in particular agar-agar and carrageenan hemicelluloses, in particular arabans, xylans, hexosanes and polyuronides - mannan, guar, alginates, xanthanes and pentosans

The oxidation can be carried out according to a process known in the art, for example according to the method described in patent FR 2842200 or FR 2854161 or in the article "Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses" by E. Fredon et al., Carbohydrate Polymers 49, 2002, pp. 1-12, Industrial Crops and Products 7, 1997, pp. 45-52. These oxidation processes are simple to implement, effective, do not generate toxic byproducts or difficult to eliminate. These processes make it possible to prepare a modified polysaccharide by conversion of hydroxymethyl groups (CH 2 OH) to carboxylic acid groups (COOH) or aldehyde groups (CHO).

The oxidation of the C6 carbon, which converts the hydroxymethyl group into a carboxyl group, can be represented by the following reaction scheme:

The glycolic oxidation, which converts the hydroxyl groups into C 2, C 3, aldehyde, and / or carboxylic acid, by ring opening and oxidation, can be represented by the following reaction scheme:

The glycolic oxidation, which converts the hydroxyl groups into C 2, C 3, to aldehyde, and / or carboxylic acid, by ring opening and oxidation, may also be represented by the following reaction scheme:

Among these oxidation processes, one of the preferred ones is that described in application FR2842200. In this process, a glucose unit polysaccharide is subjected to the action of a peroxide in the presence of a phthalocyanine-metal catalyst complex.

The peroxide may be a percarbonate or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal perborate, an alkyl peroxide, peracetic acid or hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred in that it is readily accessible and does not produce troublesome by-products.

The amount of peroxide in the reaction medium is between 0.05 and 1 molar equivalent per glucose unit of the polysaccharide, preferably between 0.1 and 0.5 molar equivalents. It is preferable to add the peroxide in successive fractions, leaving the reaction medium with stirring between two additions.

A phthalocyanine-metal complex may be represented by the following formula:

in which M represents a metal, the substituents R identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkoxyl group, an amino group, a halogen atom or an ionic group, and n is an integer of 1 to 4. The metal M may be selected from transition metals. Fe and Co are particularly preferred. When R is an alkyl group, alkyls having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms are particularly preferred. When R is alkoxyl, alkoxyls having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms are particularly preferred. When R is an amino group, the amino group is preferably selected from -NR " ₂ groups in which each of the substituents R" is independently of the other an H atom or an alkyl radical. Phthalocyanines bearing one or more ionic substituents are particularly interesting because of their solubility in water. The ionic substituents are preferably chosen from HSO ₃ -, NaSO ₃ -, HOOC-, and the groups -NR ' ₃ ⁺ in which each of the substituents R 'independently represents the other an alkyl radical, preferably chosen from those which have from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

A single phthalocyanine or a mixture of phthalocyanines, for example a mixture of Co phthalocyanine and Fe phthalocyanine, can be used as catalyst. According to a particular embodiment, a tetrasulfophthalocyanine, designated FePcS, is used as the catalyst.

The amount of catalyst depends on the degree of substitution desired. In general a small amount, for example an amount corresponding to 0.003-0.016 molar equivalents per 100 glucose units of polysaccharide is suitable.

The temperature of the reaction is generally between 20 ^° C. and 90 ^° C. The temperature range between 45 ° C. and 60 ^° C. is particularly preferred.

The reaction is preferably carried out by maintaining the pH of the reaction medium at a value between 3 and 12, more particularly between 7 and 8.5.

The process can be implemented for any polysaccharide. By way of example, mention may be made of starches or amyloses of maize, rice, wheat and potato.

When the phthalocyanine-metal complex and the polysaccharide are soluble in water, the process can be carried out in aqueous solution.

When at least one of the constituents is insoluble in water, the process can be carried out in aqueous suspension. This mode of implementation will be used, for example, for starches which are insoluble in water.

The process can also be carried out by contacting the powdery polysaccharide with the dissolved catalyst in a small volume of water and with the peroxide. This process is referred to as a "semi-dry" process.

The polysaccharide chain P before and after oxidation preferably has a weight average molecular weight of from 500 to 15,000,000, and more preferably between 800 and 10,000,000.

More preferably, the polysaccharide chain P is obtained by oxidation of cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, starch, amylose, carboxymethyl starch, amylose, inulin, guar, xanthan, carrageenan, dextran or scleroglucan. In particular, the non-cationic oxidized polysaccharides in the invention are those corresponding to formula (I) in which:

P represents a polymeric chain derived from cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, starch, carboxymethyl starch, amylose, inulin, guar, xanthan, carrageenan, dextran or scleroglucan, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or several aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)) is in the range of 0.005 to 1.5. n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOH)) is in the range of 0.001 to 2.7.

According to one particular embodiment, the non-cationic oxidized polysaccharide of formula (I) is chosen from those for which

P represents a starch, or amylose, such as maize amylose, potato starch, wheat starch or rice starch, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)), is in the range from

0.005 to 1, 5. n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOH)) is in the range of 0.001 to 2.7,

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)) is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5. n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOH)) is in the range from 0.5 to 2.7, preferably from 1 to 2.7.

The non-cationic oxidized polysaccharide according to the invention is generally present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and better from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENICAL

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin, the eyelashes, the nails or the lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

The composition can be in various forms, depending on its purpose. The cosmetic composition can thus be in any galenical form normally used for topical application and especially in anhydrous form, in the form of an oily or aqueous solution, an oily or aqueous gel, an oil-in-water emulsion, water in oil, wax in water or water in wax, a multiple emulsion, an oil dispersion in water through vesicles located at the oil / water interface. The composition may be in the form of a cast product, in particular a stick in the case of a lipstick or a care product for the lips; or a pourable foundation that can be anhydrous or in the form of a solid emulsion. The composition may also be in various other forms, for example a more or less viscous liquid, a gel or a paste.

The composition may also be in the form of a semi-solid or a solid, for example a bread to be moistened at the time of use, so as to allow it to disintegrate. The cosmetic composition may comprise, inter alia, a lipstick, a liquid gloss, a lipstick paste, a blush, a lip liner, a solid or fluid foundation, a concealer or a concealer. eye contour, eyeliner, mascara, nail polish, eye shadow, body make-up product, or a sunscreen or skin product. The invention thus also relates to a lipstick, liquid or semi-solid. The invention also relates to a foundation. The invention also relates to a nail polish. The invention also relates to a mascara.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase comprises water. A water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at ambient temperature -25 ^° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as alkyl (dC ₄₎ ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol alkyl (dC ₄₎ alkyl ethers, di- or triethylene glycol, and their mixtures. The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 50%, and more particularly from 10% to 45% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be anhydrous. An anhydrous composition may comprise less than 3% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular less than 2%, especially less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. . More particularly, an anhydrous composition may be free of water.

Fatty phase

A cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ^° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1 to 90%, in particular from 5 to 80%, in particular from 10 to 70%, and more particularly from 20 to 50% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or otherwise, or mixtures thereof.

The oils can be volatile or nonvolatile.

They can be in particular of plant origin, mineral or synthetic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^"3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably from 1, 3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and preferentially ranging from 1, 3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oils Volatile oils can be chosen from:

- hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched alkanes, C ₈ -C ₆ (also known as isoparaffins), such as decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isododecane ( also termed 2,2,4,4,6 pentamethyl) isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names or Permethyls® ISOPARS ^® ^®, and mixtures thereof. ketones, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, cyclohexanone, acetone, and mixtures thereof;

alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol and cyclohexanol, and mixtures thereof;

short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl, isopentyl acetate, methoxypropyl acetate, butyl lactate, ethyl lactate, and mixtures thereof;

cyclic esters such as gamma-butyrolactone;

ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether, isopropyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether, and mixtures thereof;

aldehydes that are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ^-6 m ² / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight, and in particular from 15% to 50% by weight. % by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile oils The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl glutamate / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO) , ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C ₄ to C ₃₆ , and especially from C ₁ to C ₃ these oils may be linear or branched, preferably linear or reliably branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower oil, butter shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil of baobab, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil , rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, oil of macadamia, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwifruit seed oil, pomace oil Grape, Pistachio Oil, Pumpkin Oil, Pumpkin Oil, Quinoa Oil, Rosehip Oil, Sesame Oil, Soybean Oil, Sunflower Oil , castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic acid / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ^®, 812 ^® and 818 ^® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, linear or branched hydrocarbons, preferably weakly branched, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, the squalane; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched, preferably linear or slightly branched, fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably comprising less an unsaturation, and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, preferably weakly branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R ₂ is> 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen among the alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dietyl 2-hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, the benzoates of alcohols,

Ci ₂ -Ci ₅ , hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as di pentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-

DA5 ^® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ^®, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in application US 2004-175338, the copolymers dimer diol and dimer diacid and their esters, such as copolymers dilinoleyl dimer diol / dimer and dilinoleic their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G, copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a carbon chain branched and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, the higher fatty acids C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , preferably those comprising at least one unsaturation, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and - di-alkyl carbonates, 2 alk chains yles being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name CETIOL CC ^® , by COGNIS, oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about

10 000 g / mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, and more particularly from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned oils chosen from:

• lipophilic polymers,

Linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,

• hydroxylated esters, • aromatic esters,

Esters of fatty alcohols or branched fatty acids in C ₂₄ -C ₂ S,

• silicone oils,

• oils of vegetable origin,

• and their mixtures. fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847,752; silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils.

In particular, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is a polar oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ^° C., δa, is other than 0 (J / cm ³ ) ¹ ' ² .

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space:

- δ _D characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;

- δ _p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- δ _h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.);

- δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a = (δ _p ² + δ _h ² ) ^{/ 2} The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are expressed in (J / cm ³ ) ¹ " ⁴ .

Preferably, the preferred nonvolatile polar oils have a solubility parameter at 25 ^° C., δa, greater than 2 or even greater than 3 (J / cm ³ ) ¹ ' ² .

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils used according to the invention comprise linear fatty acid or weakly branched chains and having at least one unsaturation. In particular, the nonvolatile polar oils used according to the invention comprise linear or weakly branched fatty acid chains having at least two unsaturations. Preferably, the nonvolatile polar oils used according to the invention comprise linear fatty acid chains having at least two unsaturations. By "unsaturation" is meant a double or triple bond.

Preferably, use is made of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, in particular triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C ₄ to C ₃ 6, and, in particular, Ci to C ₃ ₈ 6, these oils can be linear or slightly branched, unsaturated, especially jojoba oil, meadowfoam oil, oil of olive oil, sesame oil, castor oil, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company

STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under names Miglyol 810 ^®, 812 ^® and 818 ^® by the company Dynamit Nobel, esters of synthesis, in particular weakly branched and preferably unsaturated, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, or pentaerythrityl tetraisisate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C ₄ to C ₃ 6, and in particular, Ci ₈ to C36, these oils being linear or slightly branched and unsaturated, such as jojoba oil, meadowfoam oil, olive oil, sesame oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ^®, 812 ^® and 818 ^® by the company Dynamit Nobel.

In a first mode, we use jojoba oil.

In another mode, castor oil is used.

According to yet another mode, sesame oil is used.

In another embodiment, use of caprylic acid / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ^®, 812 ^® and 818 ^® by the company Dynamit Nobel.

According to another embodiment, pentaerythrityl tetraisisoate, sold under the name CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ by the company CRODA, is used.

Advantageously, the non-volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 25% by weight. Lipophilic structuring agent

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from a wax, a pasty compound, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, a wax that is suitable for the invention may especially be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral, and synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made

animal waxes such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, butter wax of cocoa or waxes of cork fiber or sugar cane,

mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,

synthetic waxes, among which polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis,

silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkyl meticones such as C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ alkylmethicone sold under the trade name "AMS C 30" by DOW CORNING,

hydrogenated oils which are solid at 25 ^° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters at ⁰ ^° C. C as the C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate sold under the trade name Kester KSH K82H by the company Koster Keunen,

and / or their mixtures.

Preferably, use will be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, candellila waxes, beeswaxes and / or mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty compound. The presence of a pasty compound may advantageously confer improved comfort during the deposition of a composition of the invention on keratinous fibers. Such a compound may advantageously be chosen from lanolin and its derivatives; polymeric silicone compounds or not; polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinyl polymers, especially homopolymers of olefins; olefin copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group; homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups; homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols, C ₂ -C _00, particularly C ₂ -C _50; esters of acid or fatty alcohol; and their mixtures.

Among the esters, there may be mentioned in particular: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglyceryl esters, such as tri isostearate of polyglyceryl-2, condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in the image, in particular, of those marketed under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol or such as polyacyladipate-2 bis diglyceryl; arachidyl propionate sold under the name Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅₀ dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a C ₂ -C ₅₀ polyol; aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as Risocast DA-H ^{® products} , and Risocast DA-L ^® ; and their mixtures.

The structuring agent (s) may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight of agents, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition.

THICKENING AGENTS

Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickening or gelling agents may be incorporated in a composition of the invention. A thickening or gelling agent suitable for the invention may be hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These may especially be chosen from: carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellanes, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose, starches; and their mixtures.

A thickening or gelling agent that is suitable for the invention may be lipophilic. It can be mineral or organic.

Examples of lipophilic thickening agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a C ₁ fatty acid ammonium chloride. 0 to ₂₂ C, such as hectorite modified by chloride distearyl di-methyl ammonium such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V ^® by the company Elementis or that marketed under the name 'Bentone 38 EC By the company RHEOX or that marketed under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company ELEMENTIS.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example elastomeric organopolysiloxanes partially or totally crosslinked, three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6 ^®, KSG16 ^® and KSG18 ^® by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E-505C ^® and Trefil E-506C ^® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC ^® , SR DMF10 ^® , SR-DC556 ^® , SR 5CYC gel ^® , SR DMF 10 gel ^® and SR DC 556 gel ^® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 ^® and JK 1 13 ^® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethyl cellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel ^® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least a monoalcohol or one monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, copolymers of ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate such as that marketed under the name Uniclear 100 VG ^® by the company Arizona Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six, particularly two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated alkyl chain or not, such as guar gum alkylated with alkyl chains to C _6, and in particular C 1 to C ₃ and mixtures thereof. The block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those marketed under the name Luvitol HSB ^® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) such as those marketed under the trademark Kraton ^® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene), triblock and radial copolymers of the mixtures (star) in isododecane such as those sold by the PENRECO company under the name Versagel ^® such as the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Among the gelling agents that may be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be esters of dextrin fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL ^® or Rheopearl KL ^® by the company CHIBA FLOUR, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular C ₈ to C ₂ 6, and more particularly C ₂ to C ₂₂ , for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise thickening agents with an active material content of from 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0%, 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.

Film-forming polymers

By "polymer" is meant herein a compound having at least 2 repeating units, and preferably at least 3 repeating units.

By "film-forming" polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

The polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1

% to 60% by weight, relative to the fatty phase, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight.

In one embodiment, the film-forming organic polymer is at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of:

film-forming polymers soluble in an organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil;

dispersible film-forming polymers in an organic solvent medium, in particular polymers in the form of nonaqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the nonaqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent;

film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, often called "latex"; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase; and

water-soluble film-forming polymers; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase. Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes.

More particularly, it may be polyurethanes and / or polyamides.

COLORING MATERIALS

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff.

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, effect-containing materials. specific optics and their mixtures.

The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

The dyestuff may further comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.

An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by the company

MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP). described in EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787,731 and WO-A-96/08537. By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular, produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored pearlescent agents, sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), GoId 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), GoId 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); pearlescent pearls, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, the particles comprising an organic or inorganic, monomatiere or multimaterial substrate, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

"Metal derivatives" means compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

Illustrative of these particles include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC ^® by Siberline and METALURE® ^® by the company Eckart.

Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the trade names ROTOSAFE 700 ECKART company, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by the company ECKART and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powders (alloy copper and zinc) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural GoId from Eckart.

It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF ₂ / AI / MgF ₂ / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / MoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZAIZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ , and Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ , pigments having these structures being sold under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS ₂ ZSiO ₂ Zmica-oxide ZSiO ₂ ZMoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ Zmica-oxide ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ ; TiO ₂ ZSiO ₂ ZTiO ₂ and TiO ₂ ZAl ₂ O ₃ ZTiO ₂ ; SnOZTiO ₂ ZSiO ₂ ZTiO ₂ ZSnO; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ ; SnO / mica / Tiθ ₂ / Siθ ₂ / Tiθ ₂ / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA. INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O _{3 structure,} grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO ₂ layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO ₂ layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO ₂ layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO ₂ layers from 430 to 440 nm.

Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER.

As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, can be used, for example, those sold by the company Chenix and those sold under the name Helicone® ^® HC by Wacker.

EXPENSES

A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, making it possible, in particular, to impart to it additional properties of mattness, coverage, and / or improved stability with regard to exudation and non-migration properties after application.

By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface treated with silicones, amino, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Among the fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, kaolin, bentone, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite and nitride. boron, glass microcapsules or ceramic composites of silica and titanium dioxide, as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet glass, polyamide powder (Nylon ^® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene powder (Teflon ^®), lauroyl lysine, starch, hollow polymer microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon carbon, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore ^® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), microbeads of r silicone resin (Tospearl ^® from Toshiba, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name of PLASTIC POWDER D-400 ^® or PLASTIC POWDER

D-800 ^® from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.

Additives

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, agents and the like. dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protector, and mixtures thereof.

It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties of these they are not affected. According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises pigments and / or fillers chosen from pigments and / or inorganic fillers, pigments and / or organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one ingredient chosen from a fatty substance, a wax, a pasty compound, a film-forming compound and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in a solid or semi-solid form.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in a liquid, pasty or gelled form.

A composition according to the invention may, in particular, be in the form of a makeup composition and / or care of the skin or lips.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may in particular constitute a makeup product for the face, body, lips, eyelashes or eyebrows. It includes a lipstick or lip gloss, a lip balm, a blush, an eye shadow, a tattoo product, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail polish, antiperspirant, an artificial tanning product of the skin.

According to one embodiment, the composition is a mascara. In another mode, the composition is a foundation. In another mode, the composition is a lipstick. According to yet another mode, the composition is a nail polish.

The invention also relates to a process for making up keratin materials, characterized in that at least one composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials. .

The invention is illustrated in the following nonlimiting examples.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Preparation of Non-cationic Oxidized Polysaccharides

Three non-cationic oxidized polysaccharides, respectively an amylose of oxidized corn, and two oxidized potato starches, were synthesized by oxidation of the corresponding non-oxidized polysaccharides in water in the presence of hydrogen peroxide and a tetrasulfophthalocyanine catalyst. iron, at 58 ° C. Such an oxidation method is described in Application FR-A-2842200, by way of example as in Example 2.

Compound 1: Amylose of oxidized maize obtained by oxidation of maize amylose (Hylon VII) supplied by National Starch & Chemical. Compound 1 has a carbonyl content of 0.95 mmol / g and a carboxyl content of 2.63 mmol / g.

Compound 2: oxidized potato starch obtained by oxidation to potato starch provided by Roquette (case no .: 9005-25-8). Compound 2 has a carbonyl content of 1.08 mmol / g and a carboxyl content of 1.4 mmol / g.

Compound 3: oxidized potato starch obtained by oxidation to potato starch supplied by Roquette (case no .: 9005-25-8). Compound 3 has a carbonyl content of 0.99 mmol / g and a carboxyl content of 1.1 mmol / g.

Example 2: Formulations

a) Mascara

A mascara composition is prepared with compound 2 (oxidized potato starch) described above.

Ingredient phase% by weight

A1 Isomerically transized jojoba oil of 5.17

Preparation of the composition:

The compounds of the phase A1 and A2 are mixed in a skillet; the phase A3 was melted and added with Moritz stirring.

In parallel, in a beaker, the aqueous phase was prepared: Amphisol K was dispersed in water at 90 ^° C. on the magnetic bar, then B2 and B3 were added to obtain a gel. Phase C was then added. Once the phases A (A1 + A2 + A3) and B (B1 + B1 + B3 + C) are homogeneous and at 90 ^° C., phase B is added to phase A with Moritz stirring.

It was stirred vigorously for 10 minutes and then the temperature was lowered. Compound 2 is added when the temperature is about 60 ⁰ C, with slow stirring.

The viscosity of the composition is measured after 24 hours of rest, on a Rhéomat 180 (Lamy), with the mobile M4 at 25 ° C. A value of 53 UD (Deviation Unit) was obtained after 10 min of shear at 200 rpm, a value equivalent to 125 Poises. We obtain a beautiful creamy texture that is easily applied to the eyelashes.

b) Foundation

The gelatin is first solubilized hot (90 ^° C.) in distilled water (phase A1). The mixture is then placed in a water bath at 50 ° C, and the A2 phase is added. In parallel, oily phase B is also brought to 50 ^° C. It is added gradually in the phase (A1 + A2) to achieve the emulsion. When the emulsion obtained is homogeneous, phase C is added with stirring for 30 seconds. The composition is then applied.

The resulting film is virtually dry after 6-7 minutes. To the touch, it is soft. The film is filming well.

These results show that the non-cationic oxidized polysaccharides, formulated in make-up compositions, participate in obtaining products having cosmetic properties, in particular of interesting texture.

Claims

1. Cosmetic make-up composition for keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) from 5 to 95% by weight of fillers and / or pigments relative to the total weight of the composition;

(ii) one or more non-cationic oxidized polysaccharides of formula (I) and / or their salts of organic or inorganic carboxylic acids

P- (CHO) _m (COOH) _n (I) in which:

m + n is greater than or equal to 1,

m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)) is in the range from 0.001 to 2, preferably from 0.005 to 1.5. n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOH)) is in the range from 0 to 3, preferably from 0.001 to 2.7.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polysaccharide chain, represented by P, is preferably chosen from: fructans or fructosanes, in particular inulin and graminane glucans, in particular starch, pectin, amylopectin, amylose, cellulose and its alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl derivatives, such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose; curdlane, dextran, pullulan; galactans, in particular agar-agar and carrageenan hemicelluloses, in particular arabans, xylans, hexosanes and polyuronides, mannan, guar, alginates, xanthanes and pentosans, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-cationic oxidized polysaccharide of formula (I) is chosen from those for which

P represents a polymeric chain derived from cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, starch, amylose, inulin, guar, xanthan, carrageenan, dextran or scleroglucan, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more groups aldehydes (DS (CHO)) is in the range of 0.005 to 1.5. n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOH)) is in the range of 0.001 to 2.7, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-cationic oxidized polysaccharide of formula (I) is chosen from those for which

P represents a starch or an amylose, such as a maize amylose, a potato starch, a wheat starch or a rice starch, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups ( DS (CHO)) is in the range of 0.005 to 1.5. n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOH)) is in the range of 0.001 to 2.7,

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said non-cationic oxidized polysaccharide of formula (I) is present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and better still from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pigments and / or fillers are selected from pigments and / or inorganic fillers, pigments and / or organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one ingredient selected from a fatty substance, a wax, a pasty compound, a film-forming compound and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises linear fatty acid chains or weakly branched and having at least one unsaturation.

10. Composition according to one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, in particular triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C ₄ to C ₃ 6, and especially from C ₈ to C ₃ 6, these oils may be linear or slightly branched, unsaturated, in particular jojoba oil, meadowfoam oil, olive oil, sesame oil, castor oil, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the Company. company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ^®, 812 ^® and 818 ^® by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic esters, in particular weakly branched and preferably unsaturated, - esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as t dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, or pentaerythrityl tetraisisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in a solid or semi-solid form.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is in a liquid form, pasty or gelled.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a mascara, a foundation, a lipstick or a nail polish.

14. A process for making up keratin materials, characterized in that at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied to said keratin materials.