WO2007093203A1 - Produit structurant - Google Patents

Produit structurant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2007093203A1
WO2007093203A1 PCT/EP2006/010680 EP2006010680W WO2007093203A1 WO 2007093203 A1 WO2007093203 A1 WO 2007093203A1 EP 2006010680 W EP2006010680 W EP 2006010680W WO 2007093203 A1 WO2007093203 A1 WO 2007093203A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
shaped body
product according
copolymer
film
forming
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PCT/EP2006/010680
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thorsten Knappe
Original Assignee
Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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Publication of WO2007093203A1 publication Critical patent/WO2007093203A1/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a product for treating keratinous fibers, comprising at least one shaped body for hair styling and a metering device containing the molded body or bodies, and a method for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers using this product.
  • Styling agents for the deformation of keratinous fibers have long been known and find use in various embodiments for the construction, for refreshing and for fixing hairstyles, which can be obtained in many hair types only using firming agents.
  • Both hair treatment products which serve a permanent, as well as those that serve a temporary shaping of the hair, play an important role.
  • Temporary shapes which should give a good grip, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair drier, etc.
  • Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. Hair gels and hair waxes, however, are usually not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.
  • Known forms of temporary styling agents can often not be dosed with satisfactory accuracy.
  • the stability of the products can be problematic for prolonged storage under unfavorable conditions.
  • the amount of styling polymer that can be incorporated into the styling agent is limited for reasons of stability.
  • the degree of hold of a styling agent depends essentially on the type and amount of the molding polymer, thus the degree of hold to be achieved is limited.
  • the known forms of temporary styling agents also generally require a large amount of excipients that do not serve the actual design of the hairstyle, but the formulation of the respective agent.
  • the styling agents often contain large amounts of organic solvents.
  • the preparation as hair spray also requires other organic compounds that are used as blowing agents. This has the consequence that the Environment is contaminated with volatile organic compounds (VOCs); on the other hand, the product volume and thus the volume of the required packaging increases considerably.
  • VOCs volatile organic compounds
  • WO 01/45647 A2 describes moldings which, in addition to conventional cosmetic constituents, contain from 5 to 80% by weight of a disintegrant and from 5 to 40% by weight of a thickener. After being dissolved in water, the moldings give viscous preparations which, depending on the other ingredients of the moldings, serve a wide variety of cosmetic purposes. Among other things, the use is called as a styling agent.
  • WO 2004/082650 A1 discloses shaped bodies for styling hairstyles which comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one polymer, at least one disintegrants and at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the packaging of the shaped bodies in both documents, between primary packaging, the shaped body, i. the packaging, which is in contact with the mold surface directly on its inside, and the secondary packaging distinguished.
  • the secondary packaging is merely optional, whereby it is explicitly stated that no requirements are placed on such a packaging, so that all customary materials and systems can be used.
  • the package is called one or more moldings in a bag or bag made of paper and / or plastic film or in a resealable tube made of glass, plastic or metal.
  • the type of packaging tablet-shaped styling agent has special significance. If the styling tablets are filled into conventional containers, for example crucibles, cardboard boxes or cans, the user usually removes the required number of styling tablets by hand. There is a risk that moisture is introduced into the packaging, so that the styling tablets dissolve in the course of time in the packaging and then stick together and with the walls of the package. In principle, this can be avoided with the packaging of individual or a small number of shaped articles proposed in WO 01/45647 A2 and WO 2004/082650 A1, for example in a moisture-impermeable film. Accordingly, for example, in the packaging of tablet-shaped dishwashing agents proceed.
  • Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a styling product for the temporary shaping of keratinic fibers available, which allows an excellent and durable styling result, is in the most compact form available, and even with regular use allows accurate and easy dosing.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a product for the treatment of keratinic fibers consisting of
  • a metering device comprising at least one storage chamber and at least one closure element
  • the storage chamber contains the molding or bodies.
  • keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • the products according to the invention allow a very simple and reliable dosing of the moldings and allow the removal of individual moldings without touching the moldings remaining in the dosing apparatus with the hands.
  • the shaped body for styling contains at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • the film-forming and / or setting polymer is preferably contained in the molding in an amount of from 1 to 100% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, most preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, based on the total molding.
  • film-forming and / or setting polymers may be included. These film-forming and / or setting polymers may be both permanent and temporary cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric.
  • an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer with an amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer is used in common.
  • the use of at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or setting polymers is also preferred. In the latter case, a particular embodiment may in turn additionally contain at least one further amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures. This makes it possible to produce appropriate solutions that can be applied or processed in a simple manner.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • Film-forming polymers furthermore include those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • the film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.
  • Suitable and inventively preferably used synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and Dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 - to C 3 alkyl groups.
  • Examples include homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide.
  • Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ® 305 by the company Seppic be distributed; Which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ® from DuPont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products polyvinyl alcohols as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, under the trade names Ucon ® Union Carbide sold.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® by Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg, and strong derivatives, such as modified corn starch, for example, under the trade name Amaze ® from National Starch, Bridgewater / NJ.
  • cellulose derivatives eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol
  • strong derivatives such as modified corn starch, for example, under the trade name Amaze ® from National Starch, Bridgewater / NJ.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle.
  • These so-called setting polymers are at the same time film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment compositions such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is, water. As a result, the limp drooping of the strands of hair is reduced, thus ensuring a long-lasting hairstyle structure and preservation.
  • the test method for this is often the so-called curl retention test applied.
  • These polymeric substances can also be successfully incorporated into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is, show several applications-wise desirable effects, numerous polymers can be found in several groups divided according to the particular mode of action, as well as in the CTFA Handbook. Because of the importance of polymers in particular, they should therefore be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI names. In this list, therefore, of course, especially the mentioned film-forming polymers again.
  • Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylamide / DMAPA acrylate / methoxy PEG methacrylate copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chlorides / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butyl Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxides Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer
  • the hair styling moldings comprise at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer composed of vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, vinylcaprolactam-vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide-acrylate-butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers and quaternized vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat copolymers is selected.
  • the film-forming and / or setting the polymer to the vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers Luviskol ® VA 64 powder or PVP / VA S 630, the vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, sold under the trade name Aristoflex ® A 60, the vinylcaprolactam vinyl pyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with tradename Advantage ® LC-e, that available under the name Amphomer ® amphoteric octylacrylamide-acrylate-butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer or quaternized by reaction with diethyl vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer available under the Trade name Gafquat ® 755N is sold.
  • the shaped bodies for hairstyling preferably contain at least one vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer.
  • the shaped body preferably further contains at least one disintegrating agent.
  • disintegrants are also often described in the literature as disintegration aids or disintegration agents. Such substances are incorporated into the moldings in order to shorten the disintegration times.
  • disintegration agent or "disintegration accelerator” is understood as meaning excipients which are suitable for rapid disintegration of moldings in water or gastric juice and for the release of the pharmaceuticals in resorbable form.
  • disintegrating agent for the purposes of the present invention includes gas-evolving components, preformed and trapped gases and disintegrants and mixtures thereof.
  • gas-evolving components are used as disintegrants. Upon contact with water, these components react with each other to form in-situ formation of gases which generate a pressure in the molded body which causes it to disintegrate into smaller particles.
  • suitable acids Preference is given to mono-, di- or trihydric acids having a pK a of from 1.0 to 6.9.
  • Preferred acids are citric, malic, maleic, malonic, itaconic, tartaric, oxalic, glutaric, glutamic, lactic, fumaric, glycolic and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred is citric acid.
  • the citric acid in particulate form, the particles having a diameter of less than 1000 ⁇ m, in particular less than 700 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably less than 400 ⁇ m.
  • Other alternative suitable acids are the homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, maleic acid, methacrylic acid or itaconic acid having a molecular weight of 2,000 to 200,000. Particularly preferred are homopolymers of acrylic acid and copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic acid.
  • preferred bases are alkali metal silicates, carbonates, bicarbonates and mixtures thereof. Metasilicates, bicarbonates and carbonates are particularly preferred, bicarbonates are most preferred.
  • particulate hydrogencarbonates having a particle diameter of less than 1000 ⁇ m, in particular less than 700 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably less than 400 ⁇ m.
  • Sodium or potassium salts of the above bases are particularly preferred.
  • the gas is preformed or trapped so that upon onset of dissolution of the molded article, gas evolution begins and further dissolution is accelerated.
  • suitable gases are air, carbon dioxide, N 2 O, oxygen and / or other non-toxic, non-combustible gases.
  • disintegrating agents in a third, particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention disintegrating agents, disintegrating agents, also referred to as disintegrants or disintegrating agents, are incorporated into the moldings in order to shorten the disintegration times.
  • Swelling disintegration aids are, for example, synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or natural polymers or modified natural substances such as cellulose and starch and their derivatives, alginates or casein derivatives.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • natural polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or natural polymers or modified natural substances such as cellulose and starch and their derivatives, alginates or casein derivatives.
  • Disintegrating agents based on cellulose are used as preferred disintegrating agents in the context of the present invention, so that preferred shaped bodies contain such cellulose-based disintegrating agents in amounts of from 5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, based on the total shaped body.
  • Pure cellulose has the formal gross composition (C 6 H 10 Os) n and is formally a ⁇ -1,4-polyacetal of cellobiose, which in turn is composed of two molecules of glucose.
  • Suitable celluloses consist of about 500 to 5000 glucose units and therefore have average molecular weights of 50,000 to 500,000.
  • Cellulose-based disintegrating agents which can be used in the context of the present invention are also cellulose derivatives obtainable by polymer-analogous reactions of cellulose.
  • Such chemically modified celluloses include, for example, products of esterifications or etherifications in which hydroxy hydrogen atoms have been substituted.
  • Celluloses in which the hydroxy groups have been replaced by functional groups which are not bonded via an oxygen atom can also be used as cellulose derivatives.
  • the group of cellulose derivatives includes, for example, alkali metal celluloses, carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and ethers, and aminocelluloses.
  • the cellulose derivatives mentioned are preferably not used as the sole cellulosic disintegrating agent but are used in admixture with cellulose.
  • the content of these mixtures of cellulose derivatives is preferably below 50% by weight, particularly preferably below 20% by weight, based on the cellulose-based disintegrating agent. It is particularly preferred to use cellulose-based disintegrating agent which is free of cellulose derivatives.
  • the cellulose used as a disintegration aid can not be used in finely divided form, but must be converted into a coarser form, for example, granulated or compacted, before admixing with the premixes to be tabletted.
  • the particle sizes of such Disintegrating agents are usually above 200 microns, preferably at least 90 wt .-% between 300 and 1600 microns and in particular at least 90 wt .-% between 400 and 1200 microns.
  • Such disintegration auxiliaries are for example available commercially under the name of Arbocel ® from Rettenmaier.
  • a preferred disintegration assistants for example, Arbocel ® TF-30-HG.
  • microcrystalline cellulose is preferably used as a cellulose-based disintegrant or as a component of this component.
  • This microcrystalline cellulose is obtained by partial hydrolysis of celluloses under conditions which attack and completely dissolve only the amorphous regions (about 30% of the total cellulose mass) of the celluloses, leaving the crystalline regions (about 70%) intact.
  • Subsequent deaggregation of the microfine celluloses produced by the hydrolysis yields the microcrystalline celluloses which have primary particle sizes of about 5 ⁇ m and can be compacted, for example, into granules having an average particle size of 200 ⁇ m.
  • Suitable microcrystalline cellulose is available commercially for example under the trade name Avicel ®.
  • disintegrants which may be present within the meaning of the invention are, for example, collidone, alginic acid and their alkali metal salts, amorphous or even partially crystalline layered silicates (bentonites), polyacrylates or polyethylene glycols.
  • the disintegrating agents can be homogeneously distributed macroscopically in the molded body, but microscopically they form zones of increased concentration due to their production.
  • the shaped bodies for styling hairstuff 5 to 80 wt .-% of a disintegrating agent Preferably, the shaped bodies for styling hairstuff 5 to 80 wt .-% of a disintegrating agent.
  • film-forming and / or setting polymers on the one hand, and suitable disintegrating agents, on the other hand, some film-forming and / or setting polymers, for example polyvinylpyrrolidone, are at the same time disintegrants.
  • some film-forming and / or setting polymers for example polyvinylpyrrolidone, are at the same time disintegrants.
  • a further disintegrating agent is added, more preferably a disintegrating agent based on cellulose.
  • the accelerated dissolution of the shaped bodies can also be achieved by pre-granulation of the further constituents of the shaped body.
  • the shaped bodies for hairstyle design contain, in addition to the disintegrants, a mixture of starch and at least one saccharide.
  • a mixture of starch and at least one saccharide is preferred.
  • Said mixture is preferably present in a weight ratio of starch and the saccharides used from 10: 1 to 1: 10, more preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 10, most preferably from 1: 4 to 1: 7 in the molding.
  • the disaccharides used are preferably selected from lactose, maltose, sucrose, trehalose, turanose, gentiobiose, melibiose and cellobiose. Particular preference is given to using lactose, maltose and sucrose and very particularly preferably lactose.
  • the starch-disaccharide mixture is contained in the shaped body, for example, in an amount of 5 to 60% by weight, preferably 20 to 40% by weight, based on the mass of the entire shaped body.
  • Film-forming and / or setting polymer and disintegrating agent may have a thickening effect. Accordingly, the molded articles do not necessarily contain further thickening agents.
  • the shaped bodies preferably contain at least one thickener, more preferably in an amount of from 5 to 40% by weight.
  • the thickener is an anionic, synthetic polymer.
  • Preferred anionic groups are the carboxylate and sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which the polymeric anionic thickeners may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are maleic anhydride and in particular 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trade drawing Carbopol ® commercially. Also preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 is commercially. Within this embodiment, it may further be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, itaconic acid mono- and diesters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 - to C 6 -alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers.
  • a preferred commercial product is, for example, Aculyn ® 33 from Rohm & Haas.
  • preference is also given to copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 - to C 6 -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
  • Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
  • Such copolymers are sold by Rohm & Haas under the trade name Aculyn ® 22 and by National Starch under the trade names Structure ® Structure 2001 ® 3,001th
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are also acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer can also be crosslinked, with preference being given to crosslinking agents used being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxythane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • crosslinking agents used being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxythane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial products Sepigel ® 305 and Simulgel® ® 600 from SEPPIC.
  • the use of these compounds, in addition to the polymer component, a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 - C 14 -lsoparaffin or Isohexadecan) and a non-ionic emulsifier (Laureth-7 or polysorbate-80) has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.
  • Polymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those with crosslinks, are preferred thickeners.
  • a cross-linked with 1, 9-decadiene maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • the thickener is a cationic synthetic polymer.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group over a C 1 . 4- hydrocarbon group are bonded to a constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • R 1 -H or -CH 3
  • R 2, R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from Ci. 4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n is a natural number
  • X ' is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion
  • copolymers consisting essentially of the in formula (I ) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic thickeners.
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, monnitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, an additional component: Mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and Capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C M -alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-C 1-4 -alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above for the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92nd
  • naturally occurring thickeners are used.
  • Preferred thickening agents of this embodiment are, for example, nonionic guar gum.
  • both modified and unmodified guar gums can be used.
  • Unmodified guar gums are, for example, sold under the trade name Jaguar ® C from Rhone Poulenc.
  • Modified guar gums preferred according to the invention contain Cr to C 6 -hydroxyalkyl groups. Preferably, the groups are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl.
  • Such modified guar gums are known in the art and can be prepared, for example, by reaction of the guar gums with alkylene oxides.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed in relation to the number of guar gums of free hydroxy groups, is preferably between 0.4 and 1.2.
  • modified guar gum under the trade names Jaguar ® HP8, Jaguar ® HP60, Jaguar ® HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar ® ® HP105 Rhone Poulenc are commercially available.
  • biosaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gums from plant exudates such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, Alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses.
  • scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums gums from plant exudates such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, Alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, cellulose derivative
  • Preferred hydroxyalkylcelluloses are, in particular, the hydroxyethylcelluloses Hercules are marketed under the names Cellosize ® Amerchol and Natrosol ®.
  • Suitable carboxyalkyl are especially the carboxymethylcelluloses as sold under the names Blanose ® by Aqualon, Aquasorb ® and ambergum ® from Hercules and Cellgon ® from Montello.
  • phyllosilicates have proven to be particularly suitable in the context of the present invention.
  • clays such as bentonite, and synthetic layered silicates such as that sold by Sud Chemie under the trademark Optigel ® magnesium phyllosilicate are preferred.
  • the thickening agents are contained in the moldings preferably in an amount of 10 to 40 wt .-%, in particular from 15 to 30 wt .-%.
  • the hair styling moldings contain at least one inorganic and at least one organic thickener.
  • the hair styling moldings may further contain the auxiliaries and additives conventionally added to conventional styling agents.
  • auxiliaries and additives are care substances.
  • a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
  • the term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. These are first dimethiconols and dimethicones, such as the marketed by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning ® 193 Surfactant PEG-12 dimethicones understood. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as those available from Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid are sold, and amino-functional silicones, especially the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone.
  • a conditioner also a cationic surfactant can be used.
  • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines are preferred.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and thalkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the amount of conditioning surfactant must be carefully tailored to the overall composition.
  • the addition of surface-active constituents is dispensed with.
  • Nurturing polymers are also suitable as a care substance.
  • a first group of caring polymers are the cationic polymers.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • “permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group are bonded via a C ⁇ -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (meth acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • poly olefinically unsaturated compounds for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates are to be paid to the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropy
  • polymers which can be used according to the invention are amphoteric polymers.
  • At least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives can furthermore be used.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. Particularly preferred are vitamins belonging to the B group or to the vitamin B complex, most preferably vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone).
  • At least one plant extract can be used.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • short-chain carboxylic acids may in particular be advantageous.
  • carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives wherein the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, is preferred.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda), Crosilk ® (Croda) or Crotein ® (Croda).
  • enzymes, pearl extracts and lipids and oily substances for example vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and ester oils, are suitable as a care substance.
  • auxiliaries and additives can be added.
  • UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. Rather, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm), are suitable. Area is located. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • An example is here 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvasorb ® S 5; Uvinul ® MS 40) mentioned.
  • the shaped bodies for hairstyling further contain at least one or more substantive dyes.
  • the shaped bodies for styling hair can contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group.
  • ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as alkalizing agent is also possible.
  • the hair styling moldings may take any geometric shape, such as concave, convex, biconcave, biconvex, cubic, tetragonal, orthorhombic, cylindrical, spherical, cylinder segment, disc, tetrahedral, dodecahedral, octahedral, conical, pyramidal, ellipsoid, five, seven and octagonal prismatic as well as rhombohedral forms. Even completely irregular surfaces such as arrow or animal shapes, trees, clouds, etc. can be realized.
  • the geometric shape is matched to the metering device.
  • a simple geometric shape such as cubes, cuboids, spheres and corresponding space elements with flat side surfaces and in particular cylindrical configurations to choose with a circular or oval cross-section.
  • This cylindrical configuration detects the presentation form from the tablet to compact cylinder pieces with a height to diameter ratio greater than 1.
  • the base molding has corners and edges, these are preferably rounded.
  • an embodiment with rounded corners and chamfered edges is preferred.
  • the various components of the shaped body are not compressed to form a uniform tablet, but tablets are produced during tabletting, which have a plurality of layers, ie at least two layers. It is also possible that these different layers have different dissolution rates. This can result in advantageous performance properties of the molded body. For example, if components are included in the moldings that interact negatively, it is possible to incorporate one component in the faster soluble layer and incorporate the other component into a slower soluble layer so that the components do not already during the dissolution process react with each other.
  • the moldings can usually be produced by compression in commercially available hydraulic presses, eccentric presses or rotary presses. Suitable procedures are described, for example, in WO 01/45647 A2 on pages 16-20, to which reference is explicitly made here.
  • the shaped bodies are packaged in a metering device. This allows the safe and reliable dosage and removal of the moldings.
  • the metering device is preferably designed so that the moldings can be removed individually from a storage chamber by manual actuation of a closure element.
  • Dispensing devices for dispensable piece goods suitable for dispensing tablets, sweeteners or other solid, lumpy foods in the pharmaceutical and food industries are suitable as metering devices, for example.
  • metering device Commercially available sweetener dispensers or a drop shaft tablet dispenser according to DE 197 37 746 A1 and DE 197 37 747 A1 are preferably used as the metering device, and the metering device is particularly preferably a commercially available sweetener dispenser.
  • a second aspect of the invention is a process for temporarily deforming keratinous fibers, wherein at least one shaped body is taken from the product according to the invention, this is dissolved in water and the resulting viscous preparation is applied to the fibers.
  • the application of the resulting application preparation is carried out in a customary manner, for example by distributing the preparation with the hands or a comb in the hair.
  • This approach has the advantage that only the amount of actually required moldings is removed. The remaining in the product moldings are not affected and therefore do not come in contact with moisture or dirt particles.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit destiné au traitement de fibres kératiniques, comprenant (A) un dispositif doseur comprenant au moins une chambre réservoir et au moins un élément de fermeture et (B) au moins un élément préformé pour structurer une coiffure, contenant au moins un polymère filmogène et/ou renforçateur, ladite chambre réservoir contenant le ou les éléments préformés, ainsi qu'un procédé de déformation temporaire de fibres kératiniques en utilisant ce produit.
PCT/EP2006/010680 2005-12-05 2006-11-08 Produit structurant WO2007093203A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200510058159 DE102005058159A1 (de) 2005-12-05 2005-12-05 Stylingprodukt
DE102005058159.5 2005-12-05

Publications (1)

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WO2007093203A1 true WO2007093203A1 (fr) 2007-08-23

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5824629A (en) * 1993-12-10 1998-10-20 Petritsch; Erich Effervescent hair cleansing and care tablets
WO2001045647A2 (fr) * 1999-12-20 2001-06-28 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preformage de systemes d'epaississement
WO2001089462A2 (fr) * 2000-05-24 2001-11-29 Adamantan Cosmetics Ag Produit d'hygiene buccale et dentaire et dispositif pour leur conservation et leur distribution
WO2004082650A1 (fr) * 2003-03-19 2004-09-30 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Corps de mise en forme pour le traitement de fibres keratiniques
EP1577375A2 (fr) * 2004-03-18 2005-09-21 Torben Reindahl Jahnsen Produit de savon pour les mains et distributeur

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5824629A (en) * 1993-12-10 1998-10-20 Petritsch; Erich Effervescent hair cleansing and care tablets
WO2001045647A2 (fr) * 1999-12-20 2001-06-28 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preformage de systemes d'epaississement
WO2001089462A2 (fr) * 2000-05-24 2001-11-29 Adamantan Cosmetics Ag Produit d'hygiene buccale et dentaire et dispositif pour leur conservation et leur distribution
WO2004082650A1 (fr) * 2003-03-19 2004-09-30 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Corps de mise en forme pour le traitement de fibres keratiniques
EP1577375A2 (fr) * 2004-03-18 2005-09-21 Torben Reindahl Jahnsen Produit de savon pour les mains et distributeur

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