EP2203148A2 - Cire mate - Google Patents

Cire mate

Info

Publication number
EP2203148A2
EP2203148A2 EP08804394A EP08804394A EP2203148A2 EP 2203148 A2 EP2203148 A2 EP 2203148A2 EP 08804394 A EP08804394 A EP 08804394A EP 08804394 A EP08804394 A EP 08804394A EP 2203148 A2 EP2203148 A2 EP 2203148A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wax
copolymer
acid
hair
particles
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP08804394A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Bernd Richters
Dirk Hentrich
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2203148A2 publication Critical patent/EP2203148A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to wax-based cosmetic compositions for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, as well as the use of these means for the temporary deformation of the hair.
  • keratinic fibers in principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, it is human hair.
  • Hair-setting agents for shaping keratinous fibers have been known for a long time and, in various embodiments, are used to build up, freshen up and fix hairstyles that can only be obtained in many types of hair using firming agents. Such agents are also referred to as styling agents, with both hair treatment agents, which serve a permanent, as well as those which serve a temporary shaping of the hair play an important role.
  • styling agents with both hair treatment agents, which serve a permanent, as well as those which serve a temporary shaping of the hair play an important role.
  • Temporary shapes which should give a good grip, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair drier, etc.
  • Hairsprays usually contain synthetic polymers as a shaping component.
  • Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism.
  • propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism.
  • a satisfactory uniform distribution of the polymer on the hair is achieved; the application of spray or pump containers is easy and clean possible.
  • Hair waxes usually contain vegetable, animal or mineral waxes as the shaping component and are generally offered as solid formulations, usually in crucibles. For use, these products are first rubbed by hand and then spread on the hair. More recently, wax-based formulations have also been developed that can be sprayed. In this way, hair waxes can be applied directly to the fibers to be treated. By hair waxes is based on natural Raw materials a good hold of the hair causes, whereby usual hair waxes give the hair usually strong gloss.
  • Object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic means for the temporary deformation keratinic fibers available, on the one hand give very good hold and on the other hand, a matte effect, wherein the means are also characterized by low tackiness.
  • the invention therefore cosmetic agents for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, in each case based on the total agent, a) 10 to 85 wt .-% of at least one wax having a melting point in a range from 4O 0 C to 9O 0 C, and b) 1 to 15 wt .-% of at least one composite powder consisting of
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain the composite powder b) in an amount of 3 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total agent, more preferably in an amount of 5 to 10 wt .-%.
  • Composite powders b) have been known for some time. Their preparation is described for example in EP 0 647 672 A1. These composite powders can be used in a whole range of different areas.
  • GB 2 423 250 A1 discloses the use in cosmetics, focusing mainly on the use in anti-wrinkle creams and other face and body care products.
  • the mean particle diameter is understood to mean the weight average, which is determined by means of known sieve analysis.
  • the composite powders are extremely flowable, easily dispersible and have only a very low aggregation tendency. They can be incorporated into cosmetic products without special devices or special process steps. In general, it is sufficient to stir the composite powder with other ingredients.
  • the organosiloxane composition may be, for example, a gel, an elastomer or a resin.
  • the organosiloxane composition is a cured silicone elastomer.
  • the powder particles of the cured organosiloxane Composition (A) may have various shapes, with spherical powder particles being preferred.
  • the powdery cured organosiloxane composition (A) can be prepared, for example, according to the teaching of EP 0 647 672 A1.
  • the preparation is carried out by reacting an organopolysiloxane (I) having at least two alkenyl groups per molecule with an organopolysiloxane (II) having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to a silicon atom per molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (I) which has at least two alkenyl groups per molecule is preferably a compound of the formula (I)
  • R is a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group or a C 6 -C 10 -aryl group
  • R 1 is R or an alkenyl group
  • R 2 is R or an alkenyl group; and m and n are each independently an integer from 0 to 5,000, provided that when R 1 is not an alkenyl group, R 2 is an alkenyl group and n is at least 2 is.
  • organopolysiloxane (II) having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to a silicon atom per molecule a compound of the formula (II) is preferably used
  • R has the above meaning, R 3 is R or hydrogen, R 4 is R or hydrogen and s and t are each independently an integer from 0 to 5,000, provided that when R 3 is not hydrogen, R 4 is hydrogen and t is at least 2 ,
  • C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group mention may be made, for example, of methyl, ethyl, propyl and isopropyl, with methyl being preferred.
  • Suitable C 6 -C 10 aryl groups are, for example, phenyl and naphthyl, phenyl being preferred. More preferably R in the above formulas is methyl.
  • alkenyl group is exemplified C 2 -C 0 alkenyl, such as vinyl, allyl, propenyl, butenyl, pentenyl, hexenyl and decenyl mentioned.
  • the alkenyl group is preferably vinyl.
  • n, s and t are preferably each independently an integer from 0 to 1000, more preferably from 0 to 200.
  • the powdery cured organosiloxane composition (A) is a dimethicone vinyl dimethicone copolymer.
  • the particles of amorphous silica (B) preferably have an average particle diameter of 0.001 to 0.1 ⁇ m.
  • the amorphous silica (B) can be prepared by known methods, for example, in an electric arc, wet-chemical or by flame hydrolysis.
  • the amorphous silica (B) is fumed silica.
  • the latter may be converted into, for example, an aqueous dispersion to which the amorphous silica (B) is added.
  • the quantitative ratio can be chosen freely within wide limits, it being preferred to add 0.1 to 30 parts by weight of amorphous silicon dioxide (B) to 100 parts by weight of powdered cured organosiloxane composition (A).
  • the dispersion is heated with the preferred temperature range being 40 to 95 ° C. Finally, the water is removed and so the composite powder b) won.
  • the composite powder b) used is preferably the commercial product Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder sold by Dow Corning with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and silica.
  • the cosmetic compositions contain, as further mandatory component, at least one wax having a melting point in the range of 4O 0 C to 9O 0 C.
  • all waxes can be used, which melt in said temperature range that meet the general definition of waxes, such as z.
  • z As in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 4th Edition, Volume 24, page 3, left column, listed, and which are physiologically compatible.
  • the waxes are, however, preferably chosen from vegetable, animal and mineral waxes, and such waxes are preferred which have a melting point in the range of 5O 0 C to 85 0 C, especially from 5O 0 C to 75 0 C.
  • Particularly preferred waxes according to the invention are beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes (microcrystalline paraffins) and cetyl palmitate.
  • the teaching according to the invention also comprises the combined use of several waxes.
  • addition of small amounts of carnauba wax can be used to increase the melting and dripping point of another wax and reduce its stickiness.
  • Spezialwachs 7686 OE a mixture of Cetylpalmitat, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75 0 C, manufacturer: Kahl & Co
  • Polywax ® GP 200 a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 0 C, manufactured by Croda
  • Weightceresin ® FL 400 a petrolatum / vaseline oil / wax mixture having a melting point of 50-54 0 C; manufacturer: preferably used Parafluid mineral oil company
  • the cosmetic agents in addition to the compounds usually defined as waxes, it is also possible to use so-called “liquid waxes”, for example jojoba oil, with the proviso that the melting point of this "wax mixture” is not below 40 ° C. lies.
  • the cosmetic agents preferably contain the waxes in amounts of from 10 to 60% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10 to 55 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • compositions contain wax a) and composite powder b) in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media.
  • alcoholic component while lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols.
  • Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol and water, can be preferred bases according to the invention.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and phenoxyethanol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agents according to the invention may consist solely of the abovementioned constituents.
  • they may contain the wax as the sole styling component and, in a preferred embodiment, are therefore free of polymers, in particular polymers with styling effect, i. of film-forming and / or setting polymers.
  • their use is not excluded in principle.
  • compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one emulsifier. This may be necessary in particular if the agent is to be packaged in a comparatively liquid, sprayable form.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are in principle both anionic, ampholytic, cationic and nonionic surface-active compounds which are suitable for use on the human body.
  • the group of ampholytic surface-active compounds comprises zwitterionic surface-active compounds and ampholytes.
  • anionic and nonionic surface-active compounds is preferred according to the invention.
  • Anionic surface-active compounds are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group such.
  • Example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula in the R, a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 C
  • Atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12
  • Preferred anionic surface-active compounds are the salts of the ether carboxylic acids and phosphate-containing compounds, in particular the phosphoric mono-, di- and triesters of ethoxylated Ci 0 -Ci 8 -, in particular Ci 2 -Ci 4 , fatty alcohols with degrees of ethoxylation of 2 to 10, in particular from 3 to 5.
  • Nonionic surface-active compounds contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Preferred nonionic surface-active compounds are the addition products of alkylene oxide, in particular ethylene oxide, to fatty alcohols and fatty acids.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the coco acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytes those substances which, in addition to a C 8 -C 8 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or - contain SO 3 H group and are capable of forming inner salts.
  • suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 12-i 8 acyl sarcosine.
  • cationic surface-active compounds are in particular quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • ammonium halides in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • the very readily biodegradable quaternary Esterasticen as sold for example under the trade name Dehyquart ®, and quaternized protein hydrolyzates, and silicone compounds are used according to the invention.
  • the compounds having alkyl groups used as surface-active compounds may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts.
  • the emulsifiers are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably in amounts of 0.5 to 5 and most preferably in amounts of from 0.7 to 3 wt .-%, wherein the amounts given in each case the entire remedy is related.
  • compositions may further contain at least one oil component selected from vegetable, mineral and synthetic oils.
  • these oil components may be added to affect the consistency of the composition.
  • the amount of oil component must not be so high as to lose the desired matte effect.
  • These oil components or oil components are therefore contained in the compositions according to this embodiment, preferably in amounts less than 15 wt .-%, in particular less than 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components include, for example: vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myrist IPM Rilanit ®
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid , Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the agents according to the invention contain isopropyl myristate as the oil component.
  • compositions according to the invention also to contain at least one thickener.
  • suitable thickening agents are, for example, agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, celulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such.
  • bentonite fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol, and optionally crosslinked polyacrylates.
  • Particularly suitable thickeners are hydroxyethyl cellulose and its derivatives.
  • film-forming and / or setting polymers are also possible.
  • film-forming and / or setting polymers it is possible to use all polymers known in this function, these being able to be both permanently and temporarily cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric.
  • films-forming and / or setting polymers they may have different charges.
  • an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer it may be preferred according to the invention for an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer to be used together with an amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • the use of at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or setting polymers is also preferred. In the latter case, a particular embodiment may in turn additionally contain at least one further amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be in the inventive agent to be present in completely dissolved form.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • the film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.
  • Suitable synthetic, film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, Alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 - to C 3 alkyl groups.
  • Examples include homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide.
  • Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ® 305 by the company Seppic be distributed; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ® from DuPont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, Ucon ® Union Carbide sold under the trade names.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle.
  • These so-called consolidating polymers are at the same time film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment compositions such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is, water. As a result, the limp drooping of the hair strands is reduced, thus ensuring a long-lasting hairstyle structure and preservation.
  • the so-called curl retention test is often used.
  • polymers can also be successfully incorporated into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is, show several applications-wise desirable effects, numerous polymers can be found in several groups on the mode of action, as well as in the CTFA Handbook. Because of the importance of polymers in particular, they should therefore be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI names. In this list of polymers preferably to be used according to the invention, it will be obvious, of course, that the above-mentioned film-forming polymers are again used.
  • Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butyl Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / CI-2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copo
  • Preferred film-forming and / or setting polymers are the polyvinylpyrrolidones, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, vinylcaprolactam Vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethylnethacrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide-acrylate-butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymers and quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethylnethacrylate copolymers.
  • the film-forming and / or setting the polymer to the vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers Luviskol ® VA 37, or PVP / VA Copolymer 60/40 W NP, the vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymer sold under the trade name Aristoflex ® A 60 is sold, the caprolactam-vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with tradename Advantage ® LC-e, that available under the name Amphomer ® amphoteric octylacrylamide-acrylate-butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer or quaternized by reaction with diethyl vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, which is sold under the trade name Gafquat ® 755N.
  • compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries, active ingredients and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.
  • Suitable auxiliaries, active ingredients and additives are, in particular, care substances.
  • a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
  • a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
  • Suitable silicone oils or silicone gums are, in particular, dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
  • the term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. These are first dimethiconols and dimethicones, such as the marketed by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning ® 193 Surfactant PEG-12 dimethicones understood. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as those available from Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid are sold, and amino-functional silicones, especially the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone.
  • Also suitable as a care substance are caring polymers, for example amphoteric polymers.
  • At least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives can furthermore be used.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. Particularly preferred are vitamins belonging to the B group or to the vitamin B complex, most preferably vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone).
  • At least one plant extract can be used.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • short-chain carboxylic acids may in particular be advantageous.
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750 exhibit.
  • preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives wherein the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, is preferred.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda), Crosilk ® (Croda) or Crotein ® (Croda).
  • auxiliaries In addition to the care substances, other auxiliaries, active ingredients and additives can be added.
  • UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • An example is here 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ® MS 40; Uvasorb ® S 5) mentioned.
  • the agents may contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred in this group.
  • ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.
  • color pigments or other dyes are the pigments having the C.I. names Pigment Red 57: 1 and Pigment Red 57: 2.
  • compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for cosmetic compositions, for example in the form of dispersions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of solid waxes, gels or creams.
  • the formulation as a solid hair wax or pasty cream is preferred.
  • a propellant must be added as a further component.
  • the blowing agent is selected so that it also serves as a solvent for the wax components.
  • the propellant can then serve as a solvent for the wax components, if they are soluble at 2O 0 C to at least 1 wt .-%, based on the propellant in this.
  • Preferred blowing agents according to the invention are alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and iso-pentane; n-butane, propane and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • the agents contain the said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes as sole propellant.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.
  • dimethyl ether preferably in amounts below 5 wt .-%, based on the total agent may be included as an additional blowing agent.
  • blowing agents are preferably contained in amounts of 40 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Quantities of from 50 to 95% by weight, in particular from 60 to 90% by weight, are particularly preferred.
  • a second object of the invention is the use of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair.
  • the styling pastes E1 to E4 according to the invention were prepared according to the following table:
  • Modified cellulose (90% active ingredient content, INCI name: hydroxyethyl cellulose) (Shin Etsu)
  • 2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (INCI name: Aminomethyl Propanol) (Dow Chemical)
  • 2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (INCI name: Aminomethyl Propanol) (Dow Chemical)
  • Color pigment of about 55-62% by weight of mica and 38-45% by weight of iron oxide (INCI name: Mica and Iron Oxides) (Merck, Rona-EMD)
  • Glycerol mono / distearate (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate) (Cognis)
  • Ethoxylated beeswax (INCI name: PEG-8 Beeswax) (Uniqema)
  • Palmitic Acid and Stearic Acid Mixture of palmitic and stearic acid (INCI name: Palmitic Acid and Stearic acid
  • Vaseline Vaseline oil-wax mixture (INCI name: Petrolatum) (PARAFLUID
  • the styling paste E5 according to the invention was prepared according to the following table:

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit cosmétique pour la mise en forme temporaire de fibres kératiniques, ce produit contenant dans un support cosmétiquement acceptable, par rapport au poids total du produit, 10 à 85 % en poids d'au moins une cire présentant un point de fusion compris entre 40°C et 90°C et 1 à 15 % en poids d'au moins une poudre composite comprenant (A) des particules pulvérulentes d'une composition organosiloxanique durcie présentant un diamètre moyen de particules compris entre 0,1 et 200 µm et (B) des particules de dioxyde de silicium amorphe présentant un diamètre moyen de particules inférieur ou égal à 1 µm, les particules de dioxyde de silicium amorphe (B) étant immobilisées sur la surface des particules pulvérulentes de la composition organosiloxanique durcie (A). L'invention concerne également l'utilisation de ce produit pour la mise en forme temporaire des cheveux.
EP08804394A 2007-10-31 2008-09-18 Cire mate Withdrawn EP2203148A2 (fr)

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DE102007052391A DE102007052391A1 (de) 2007-10-31 2007-10-31 Mattwachs
PCT/EP2008/062456 WO2009056398A2 (fr) 2007-10-31 2008-09-18 Cire mate

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US8680054B2 (en) * 2011-04-20 2014-03-25 Novartis Ag Suspension type topical formulations comprising cyclic depsipeptide
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WO2012163406A1 (fr) 2011-05-31 2012-12-06 Kpss-Kao Professional Salon Services Gmbh Composition de traitement des cheveux
FR2992179B1 (fr) * 2012-06-21 2015-05-15 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules d'aerogel de silice hydrophobe, une cire minerale, une huile hydrocarbonee, un acide gras et/ou un alcool gras
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FR2992178B1 (fr) * 2012-06-21 2016-07-01 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules d'aerogel de silice hydrophobe, une cire, une huile hydrocarbonee
FR2992199B1 (fr) 2012-06-21 2015-07-17 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules d'aerogel de silice hydrophobe et un alcool particulier
US10588850B2 (en) 2012-06-21 2020-03-17 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, a wax, a hydrocarbon oil and a fatty alcohol and/or a fatty acid
US8987413B2 (en) 2012-10-09 2015-03-24 Novartis Ag Aldehyde acetal based processes for the manufacture of macrocyclic depsipeptides and new intermediates
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FR2996765B1 (fr) * 2012-10-15 2015-01-16 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
WO2014202559A1 (fr) * 2013-06-17 2014-12-24 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant une cire minerale, un acide gras, une huile minerale, un tensioactif, un ester d'acide gras et/ou d'alcool gras, un polymere fixant
FR3006893B1 (fr) * 2013-06-17 2015-07-31 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant une cire minerale, un acide gras, une huile minerale, un tensioactif non ionique particulier, un corps gras solide particulier et un polymere fixant
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US20100209376A1 (en) 2010-08-19

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