WO2006128584A1 - Preparations cosmetiques contenant un extrait de fruit d'anis aqueux et un ou plusieurs epaississants polymeres, selectionnes dans le groupe des derives de cellulose - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques contenant un extrait de fruit d'anis aqueux et un ou plusieurs epaississants polymeres, selectionnes dans le groupe des derives de cellulose Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006128584A1
WO2006128584A1 PCT/EP2006/004643 EP2006004643W WO2006128584A1 WO 2006128584 A1 WO2006128584 A1 WO 2006128584A1 EP 2006004643 W EP2006004643 W EP 2006004643W WO 2006128584 A1 WO2006128584 A1 WO 2006128584A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
group
cellulose derivatives
cosmetic preparations
aqueous
cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2006/004643
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Svenja Cerv
Stefan Gallinat
Christopher Mummert
Thomas Raschke
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Publication of WO2006128584A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006128584A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymeric thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives and their use in the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical dermatology.
  • the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is of particular importance as an important barrier layer, inter alia. for protection against environmental influences and dehydration.
  • the horny layer is constantly worn in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.
  • a skin model that is widely used today in the art summarizes the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model).
  • the corneocytes horny cells
  • the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
  • the epidermal lipids In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.
  • NMF Natural Moisturizing Factor
  • the active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing them better than moisturizing agents will better protect against dehydration by emulsifiers and coemulsifiers better enhance the barrier performance of the skin better protects the skin from exogenous noxae better against the symptoms of sensitive skin better protects the skin roughness reduces acting better against aging skin as the active ingredients, drug combinations and preparations of the prior art.
  • an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), which is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, especially potassium ions and is conserved with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% and obtainable by enzymatic hydrolysis in water of solubilized aniseed fruits, wherein the ratio of raw material to extract is about ⁇ ⁇ and is available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France
  • Thickeners selected according to the invention from the group of cellulose derivatives are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula
  • methylcelluloses cellulose mixed ethers in addition to a dominating content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • Hydrophob-modified hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS at Aqualon.
  • Further cellulose derivatives according to the invention are the hydroxyethylethylcellulose (Elfacos CD 481 from Akzo Nobel)
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the purposes of the present invention advantageously contain 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acid polymers.
  • the molar ratio of an aqueous anise fruit extract to one or more thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives from the range of 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1: 50, particularly preferably 20: 1 to 1: 20 to choose.
  • the preparations are particularly advantageously characterized in that the an aqueous aniseed extract in concentrations of 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 3.00% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
  • Cosmetic preparations in which the aqueous aniseed extract is present in concentrations of 0.01-10.00% by weight, preferably 0.05-5.00% by weight, more preferably 0.1-3.00% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition, is present, are also advantageous according to the invention.
  • thickener or thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives in concentrations of 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 1 - 3.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is present or present
  • antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • Preferred antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants such as are conventionally used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, perfumes, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic adjuvants such as are conventionally used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, perfumes, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, iodopropylglycidyl carbamates (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxy - Benzoeklarealkylester, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or Butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, imidazolidinylurea, Diazolidinylhamstoff, benzoic acid and the like.
  • the solvent used may be: Water or aqueous solutions;
  • Oils such as caprylic / capric triglyceride fatty acid ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonic acid esters such as dicaprylyl carbonate, as well as vegetable triglycerides such as sunflower oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil; Cyclomethicones, dimethicone, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, octyldodanol, squalane, jojoba oil fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g.
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
  • alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.
  • Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents used for this purpose, preferably water, also contain organic and / or inorganic thickeners. Furthermore, these thickeners are part of cosmetic emulsions.
  • compositions for such preparations, for example, copolymers of CIO 3 o acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof.
  • the INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.”
  • Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon).
  • Carbopols are also advantageous gelling agents for such preparations.
  • Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers.
  • advantageous carbopols are the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984.
  • ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer (commercial name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide.
  • gelling agents for such preparations are xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carrageenan, starch and starch derivatives, hyaluronic acid locust bean gum, aluminum silicates and also acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acids such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant)
  • the thickening agent is present in the gel, dispersion or emulsion e.g. in an amount of between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques, contenant (i) un extrait de fruit d'anis aqueux et (ii) au moins un épaississant polymère, sélectionné dans le groupe des dérivés de cellulose.
PCT/EP2006/004643 2005-06-03 2006-05-17 Preparations cosmetiques contenant un extrait de fruit d'anis aqueux et un ou plusieurs epaississants polymeres, selectionnes dans le groupe des derives de cellulose WO2006128584A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102005026002A DE102005026002A1 (de) 2005-06-03 2005-06-03 Kosmetische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an einem wässrigen Anisfruchtextrakt und einem oder mehreren polymeren Verdickungsmitteln, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Cellulosederivate
DE102005026002.0 2005-06-03

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2006128584A1 true WO2006128584A1 (fr) 2006-12-07

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DE (1) DE102005026002A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2006128584A1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010009809A2 (fr) * 2008-07-22 2010-01-28 Beiersdorf Ag Combinaisons de principes actifs constituées d'extrait de fruits d'anis et d'acide hyaluronique
US20150164780A1 (en) * 2012-07-06 2015-06-18 Beiersdorf Ag Active ingredient combinations of magnolia bark extract and hyaluronic acid and the cosmetic and/or dermatological use thereof

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JPH0648934A (ja) * 1992-06-02 1994-02-22 Sansho Seiyaku Co Ltd 皮膚外用剤
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EP1666099A1 (fr) * 2004-11-10 2006-06-07 Lancaster Group GmbH Agents cosmétiques matifiants pour la peau
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US6426081B1 (en) * 1999-11-30 2002-07-30 Myong Hun Chong Cosmetic firming formulation
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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010009809A2 (fr) * 2008-07-22 2010-01-28 Beiersdorf Ag Combinaisons de principes actifs constituées d'extrait de fruits d'anis et d'acide hyaluronique
WO2010009809A3 (fr) * 2008-07-22 2010-05-27 Beiersdorf Ag Combinaisons de principes actifs constituées d'extrait de fruits d'anis et d'acide hyaluronique
US20150164780A1 (en) * 2012-07-06 2015-06-18 Beiersdorf Ag Active ingredient combinations of magnolia bark extract and hyaluronic acid and the cosmetic and/or dermatological use thereof
US9402801B2 (en) * 2012-07-06 2016-08-02 Beiersdorf Ag Active ingredient combinations of magnolia bark extract and hyaluronic acid and the cosmetic and/or dermatological use thereof

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