WO2006059612A1 - ニットガーメントとその編成方法及び編成プログラム - Google Patents
ニットガーメントとその編成方法及び編成プログラム Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2006059612A1 WO2006059612A1 PCT/JP2005/021902 JP2005021902W WO2006059612A1 WO 2006059612 A1 WO2006059612 A1 WO 2006059612A1 JP 2005021902 W JP2005021902 W JP 2005021902W WO 2006059612 A1 WO2006059612 A1 WO 2006059612A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- sleeve
- knitting
- protrusion
- sleeves
- joining
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
- D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
Definitions
- Knit garment its knitting method and knitting program
- the present invention relates to joining a sleeve and a body in a knit garment.
- Patent Documents 1 and 2 show joining using a gusset to the body of a sleeve in seamless knit.
- the armhole force is also lowered toward the cuff in the sleeve line.
- the sleeve is bent in a direction different from the original, and it is difficult to raise the arm.
- Patent Literature l WO 2001 / 88243A1
- Patent Document 2 WO 2002 / 63085A1
- An additional problem with the present invention is to form a shoulder drop on the sleeve at the top of the joint to the body.
- the knit garment of the present invention is a knit garment in which a body and a cylindrical sleeve are joined without sewing, and on both sides of the body, there are protrusions that are high on the side and low on the chest and dorsal side.
- the sleeves face upward from the body side to the cuffs in a natural state of non-wearing.
- an increase area that increases the number of sleeves for example, an increase line, is provided above the joint.
- the knit garment knitting method of the present invention is a knit garment knitting method in which a body is knitted and a cylindrical sleeve is knitted, and the body and the sleeve are joined to each other. Knit garment with sleeves facing upwards from the body side to the cuffs in a natural state when worn, by providing a high protrusion on the side and a low protrusion on the chest and back, and joining the bottom of the sleeve to the protrusion It is characterized by doing.
- the number of sleeves is increased in parallel with the joining.
- the protrusion when the protrusion is provided, the turning knitting, the movement of the stitch group knitted by turning back to the outside, and the stitches formed by feeding the empty needle generated by the movement to form a stitch.
- the protrusion is protruded to the outside of the side in the left-right direction.
- a knit garment knitting program is a knit garment knitting program for knitting a body, knitting a cylindrical sleeve, and joining the body and the sleeve.
- the command to knitting a high protrusion on the side and low on the chest and dorsal side and an instruction to join the lower part of the sleeve to the protrusion, in the natural state of non-wearing, towards the body side force cuffs It is characterized by knitting knit garments with sleeves facing up.
- the joint line between the sleeve and the body is directed downward from the side to the inside of the body, and the sleeve is naturally upward.
- the shape of the protrusion is triangular or quadrangular, and preferably the upper part of the protrusion is on the outside of the body from the side line. In the case of a quadrangular protrusion, the upper side is narrower than the bottom side.
- the joint line between the sleeve and the body protrudes on the side of the body, causing a downward area, and when the sleeve is pulled outward, the force is not concentrated on one place, from the lower end of the sleeve, etc. Compared to conventional garments that are easily damaged, they are rugged.
- the upper line of the sleeve is inclined upward toward the neck hole at the shoulder portion to form a shoulder drop.
- the protrusion is increased so that the protrusion protrudes to the outside of the side in the left-right direction, a large clearance is generated by the joint between the sleeve under the armpit and the body. For this reason, when a knit garment is worn and the arm is raised, the sleeve can be raised more naturally than the sleeve is not pulled downward from the armpit.
- the knit garment with the sleeve facing upward in a non-wearing natural state is formed. Can be organized.
- the protrusion is formed by turning back, the entire boundary between the protrusion and the sleeve can be joined as shown in FIG.
- the sleeve when knitting into a rectangular band, for example, without protruding, it is not possible to join the sleeve to the sleeve because the stitches on the inner surface of the band-shaped protrusion are not locked to the needle.
- the protrusion when knitting the protrusion, for example, by repeatedly performing knitting by turning back, moving at least a part of the stitch group knitted by turning back, and increasing the number of empty needles caused by the movement
- the protrusion can be easily protruded to the outside of the side in the left-right direction.
- FIG. 1 Front view of the pullover of the embodiment
- FIG. 3 Diagram showing a sleeve shape of a modified example
- Figure 1 shows the joining of the sleeve to the body by the pullover of Figure 1 across the front and back body and both sleeves.
- FIG.5 Figure showing the body bow I flip knitting in the pull-over of Fig. 1
- FIG.6 Diagram showing the joining of the sleeve to the body in the pullover of Fig.1
- FIG.7 Front view of pull-over example of raglan style sleeve-shaped embodiment
- FIG. 8 Front view of pull-over of embodiment with sleeve shape of set-in style
- FIG. 10 Front view of the pullover of the second embodiment.
- ⁇ 11 Diagram showing the joint of the body and the sleeve in the second embodiment.
- ⁇ 12 Diagram showing a modification of the projection in the second embodiment.
- FIG. 13 is a diagram showing a protruding bow I turning knitting in the second embodiment.
- FIG. 14 is a diagram showing the joining of the sleeve to the body in the second embodiment.
- FIG. 15 Detailed explanatory diagram of steps 22 and 23 in the second embodiment.
- FIGS. 1 to 9 show an embodiment and its modification by taking a pullover as an example.
- the left and right sides are based on wearing, and the direction of swinging is based on the direction in the figure.
- 1 to 6 2 is a pullover, knitted by a flat knitting machine without sewing a neck hole, etc.
- 4 is a tubular body with protrusions 5 and 6 at the upper sides of the left and right ends.
- the protrusions 5 and 6 may be asymmetrical, for example, before and after the symmetrical force between the front body side and the back body side. Projections 5 and 6 are high on the side and low on the chest and back, for example, in the shape of a triangle.
- 8 and 10 are the left and right sleeves.
- the lower part of the sleeves 8 and 10 and the protrusions 5 and 6 are joined by the joining line 1 2.
- sleeves 8 and 10 are increased at the additional line 14.
- the additional line 14 is similarly formed on the rear side of the sleeves 8 and 10.
- the additional line 14 extends toward the center of the chest and back after the joining along the joining line 12 is completed.
- the joining line 16 is the joining line between the sleeves 8 and 10 and the body 4 in the region where the protrusions 5 and 6 are finished
- the joining line 18 is the joining line between the left and right sleeves 8 and 10.
- 20 is a neck hole
- 22 is a collar
- the neck hole 20 and collar 22 may be formed without sewing or with a cut-and-sew.
- Reference numeral 24 denotes a shoulder-down line, which is formed by an increase line 14, and 26 is a sleeve center line at the center of the sleeves 8 and 10. When this line is upward, the sleeve is upward.
- FIG. 2 shows a force indicating the joining of the front part of the right sleeve 8 and the body 4. This is the same for the rear part of the right sleeve 8 and the left sleeve 10 side.
- the chain line in FIG. 2 is the shape after the sleeve 8 is joined to the body 4.
- the cut portion 9 is a portion where the sleeves 8 and 10 are cut from the body side toward the inside of the sleeve with the armpit P as the apex, and is provided on the front sleeve side and the rear sleeve side of the sleeves 8 and 10.
- the cut part 9 is formed by joining the stitches of the sleeves, not the actual cuts of the sleeves 8 and 10, to the stitches of the body.
- FIG. 2 shows a modified sleeve 28 in which the cut portion 9 is not provided.
- Protrusion 5 is provided in this case as well, and is otherwise the same as sleeve 8 in FIGS. Since there is no cut portion 9 in the sleeve 28 in FIG. 3, if it is desired to make the sleeve 28 sufficiently upward, the angle at which the sleeve 28 faces upward is small, the slope of the protrusions 5 and 6 should be made steep.
- FIG. 4 shows the joining of the sleeves 8 and 10 to the body 4.
- the protrusions 5 and 6 are knitted by pulling back, and are joined by the joining line 12 so that the apexes of the protrusions 5 and 6 and the apex of the cut portion 9 are joined to form an armpit.
- the protrusions 5 and 6, the joining line 12, and the cut portion 9 are, for example, symmetrical on the front side and the rear side of the pullover 2.
- FIG. 5 shows the turn back knitting for knitting the protrusions 5 and 6, and the arrows indicate the knitting direction, and the knitting is performed from the bottom to the top of the figure.
- the solid line in the figure shows the knitting of the back knitted fabric
- the broken line shows the knitting of the front knitted fabric
- the part where tacking is performed is marked with that symbol.
- the protrusion is knitted while gradually reducing the knitting width by turning back against the right side of the body 4, and tacking is performed when turning back by changing the knitting direction to prevent holes from being formed.
- the protrusion 6 is knitted on the left side of the body in the same manner, and an appropriate number of courses are knitted over the entire front and back.
- FIG. 6 shows the joining of the right sleeve to the body, and the joining of the left sleeve is the same.
- the solid line in the figure shows the processing related to the back sleeve
- the broken line shows the processing related to the front sleeve
- “knit” is displayed in the knitting portion
- the horizontal arrow indicates the knitting direction
- the knitting is performed from the bottom to the top.
- IP, 2P, etc. indicate the number of sleeve racking pitches
- arrows pointing upward, downward, diagonally upward, and diagonally downward indicate the direction of transfer.
- FIG. 6 a four-bed flat knitting machine with front and rear lower-one dollar beds as well as front and rear upper one-dollar beds is assumed. Transfers shall be made between the lower back-one dollar bed and the front upper-one dollar bed, and the lower front-one dollar bed and the rear upper-one dollar bed. Symbols are added to the formation points of the double stitches and the formation points of the double stitches.
- the back sleeve is knitted in one course, all the stitches on the back sleeve and the stitches on the side edge of the right back body are transferred diagonally, and the 1P symbol is given Is moved back to the right by one pitch with respect to the previous position.
- the stitch at the end of the right back body is transferred back to the original needle.
- the tool at the end of the right back body and the tool at the end of the right back sleeve A second double is formed.
- one course each is formed on the right end of the right back body, the second formation, and the right back sleeve.
- One stitch is generated by moving a part of the stitch on the right back sleeve by 2 pitches.
- the right back sleeve is knitted, one stitch is formed on the blank needle, and the stitch is increased by one stitch. I do. Therefore, in these steps, two stitches are formed, one stitch is added, and the border of the sleeve moves toward the inside of the one-piece body. The same process is performed on the right front sleeve. Next, move all the stitches on the right front sleeve and the first stitch at the end of the right front so that the outer edge of the right front sleeve moves toward the inside of the second stitch. Combine to form the second overlap.
- the body 4 and the left and right sleeves 8 and 10 are locked as one large cylinder on the needle bed.
- the stitches at the ends of the sleeves 8, 10 were overlapped with the stitches of the body 4 and joined.
- the joining line 16 is obtained.
- a cylinder having force only at both sleeves 8 and 10 remains on the needle bed, and these are joined at the joining line 18.
- the pullover 2 shown in FIG. 1 is completed.
- the sleeves 8 and 10 are joined at the center of the body, when the sleeve is lifted forward and upward, it is difficult for a load to be applied to the joining line 18 where the distance to the armhole force joining portion is long.
- FIG. 7 shows a modified pullover 32.
- Projections 5 and 6 are provided on both sides of the body 4, and the same cut portions as those in FIG. 2 are provided on the sleeves 33 and 34 side.
- the process up to joining at the joining line 12 is the same as in FIG. 1, and in this example, the shoulder drop 24 can be formed without providing the additional line 35.
- the body 4 is knitted into a square shape, for example, to form a knitted portion 37, and at the joining line 36, the sleeves 33, 34 and the body 4 are joined together in a raglan style. As a result, the line 39 will be reduced.
- the sleeves 43 and 44 are joined to the knitting part 45 as in the case of the set-in sleeve while the knitting part 45 is knitted.
- the sleeves 43 and 44 and the body 4 are joined by a joining line 46, 47 is a neck hole, and 48 is a collar.
- a joining line 46, 47 is a neck hole
- 48 is a collar.
- various types of joining between the sleeve and the body after the joining at the protrusions 5 and 6 is completed By changing the ratio of the knitting between the sleeve and the body here, it can be said.
- various sleeve shapes can be obtained by changing the presence or absence of the knitting portions 37, 45 and the like. Further, the shape of the sleeve may be different between the front part and the rear side of the pullover.
- FIG. 9 shows a pullover knitting program.
- This program shows the processing up to the part of the joining line 12, and the processing after this varies depending on the shape of the sleeve, and is obvious from the above description.
- the knitting instruction 93 for both sleeves the left and right sleeves are knitted into a cylindrical shape.
- the sleeve stitching command 95 is used to join the sleeve stitches with the body stitches
- the sleeve knitting command 96 is used to connect the sleeve and the surrounding body part to the specified course. Knit one by one, and with the sleeve increase command 97, an increase is formed on the sleeve to form an increase line.
- Each pullover of the embodiment has the following characteristics. Due to the protrusions 5, 6 and the cut part 9, the sleeves 8, 10, etc. are naturally facing upwards without being worn. If the angle formed between the sleeve center line 26 and the horizontal line in FIG. 1 is an upward angle, this angle can be an arbitrary angle of 10 ° to 90 °, for example. For this reason, it is often the case that the arm is extended upward, which is optimal as a pullover for sports. When the force to pull the sleeve is applied, this force is relaxed at the portion of the joint line 12 between the protrusions 5, 6 and the sleeve, and since it does not concentrate on one point, the armpit force does not break the pullover . For this reason, it is excellent also in durability.
- the protrusions and cuts may be asymmetrical around the body and sleeves.
- force using pullover as an example can be used for appropriate applications such as dresses, dresses, underwear and sportswear.
- the knit garment of the embodiment can be knitted without sewing, for example, up to the portion where the sleeves are joined to the body, but a cut-and-sew may be used for neck holes and collars.
- FIG. 10 to FIG. 14 show a second embodiment.
- the reference numerals used in FIGS. 1 to 6 plus 100 or 200 are the same, and the description of the embodiment in FIGS. 1 to 9 is the same as that in FIGS. 10 to 15, except as otherwise noted. This also applies to the examples.
- 102 is a pullover
- 104 is a body
- 105 and 106 are left and right protrusions
- the side of the body from the chest side or the back side to the side in other words, the body 104 Provide to project from the inside to the outside.
- the protrusions 105 and 106 have a quadrangular shape, and the outer ends of the protrusions 105 and 106 protrude outward from the line L2 on the side of the body 104.
- the protrusions 105 and 106 are knitted by repeating the turn-back knitting of the left and right ends of the body, the movement of the turn-knitted stitch group to the outside of the side, and the increase in the number of empty needles generated by the movement.
- the protrusions 105 and 106 are the joints between the body and the sleeves, and serve as a space larger than the protrusions 5 and 6 in Fig.
- Reference numerals 108 and 110 denote sleeves having cut portions (not shown) corresponding to the protrusions 105 and 106.
- Reference numeral 112 denotes a joint line between the protrusions 105 and 106 and the sleeves 108 and 110.
- 116a and 116b are joint lines between the body 104 and the sleeves 108 and 110 at locations other than the protrusions 105 and 106. Note that the shapes of the protrusions 105 and 106 are symmetrical in the front, rear, left and right of the body 104, for example.
- the bonding line 112 includes an upper bonding line 112a such as the protrusion 106, and a bonding line 112b along the oblique side.
- the hypotenuse 112b extends upward at right angles to the line L1
- all the stitches of the joining lines 112a and 112b can be joined to the stitches on the sleeve 110 side.
- the bonding strength at the protrusion 106 is high. This also applies to the protruding 105.
- the joining line 116b is parallel to the line L1, and the number of eyes is about 2 to several tens.
- the intermediate joining line 116b prevents the joining line from changing from the joining line 112b to the joining line 116a at an acute angle, and prevents the force from concentrating on a specific stitch when the sleeve 110 is pulled. This also applies to the protruding 105 side.
- the protrusions 105 and 106 can be knitted by repeatedly knitting the upper ends of the line L1 of the body 104, moving the knitted stitches to the side, and increasing the number of empty needles generated by the movement.
- a protrusion 206 that is rectangular and does not extend to the outside of the side line L2 is shown. Also shown on the right side of FIG. 12 is a triangular protrusion 207 with the top apex extending outside the side line L2. 212 and 213 are new joining lines. Comparing the protrusion 106 in the example with the protrusion 206 in FIG. Since it protrudes outside the in L2, the sleeves 108 and 110 are naturally easy to face upward. Also, comparing the protrusion 106 with the protrusion 207 in Fig. 12, the joint line 112 is composed of two line segments, so the joint strength between the sleeve and the body is higher than the joint line 213 of the simple line segment. Become. Furthermore, the protrusion 106 goes into the inside of the sleeve, so there is a lot of room to lift the sleeve upward.
- FIG. 13 shows the knitting of the front body protrusion 105 and the rear body protrusion on the rear side thereof.
- the solid line shows the knitting on the back body side
- the broken line shows the knitting on the front body side.
- the arrow on the left in the figure indicates the carriage movement direction (knitting direction).
- Step 1 the back body is knitted, and in Step 2, the front body is knitted.
- the body 104 is knitted, for example, to the line L1.
- the portion of the protrusion 105 on the front body is transferred to the opposite upper needle bed, and the transferred stitch is racked, for example, by 1 pitch on the left side of the figure and transferred back to the original needle bed (steps 3 and 4).
- the protrusion on the back body is transferred to the upper one-dollar bed facing, for example, racked to the left side of the one-pitch diagram and transferred back to the original one-dollar bed (steps 5 and 6).
- Step 7 and Step 8 the rear body protrusion is formed as a course.
- the needle at the right end in the figure of the knitting range in Step 8 is an empty needle because the stitch has been moved one pitch to the left in the figure in Step 6.
- Step 8 feed the yarn into a knit and add 1 stitch. Take a tack at step 9 and organize a course again at step 10. By turning back in this way, the rear side protrusions are knitted in two courses and moved to the outside of the 1-pitch (one-line) side line, which is further increased by one.
- step 11 to step 14 turn back knitting, lateral movement to the outside of the side line, and increase in the same way for the protrusion 105 on the front body side, where the empty needle generated in step 4 in step 12 (step Increase to the right of the 12 knitting ranges). Then, the knitting from step 3 to step 14 is repeated, and the protrusion 105 in FIG. 10 is knitted.
- the protrusion 106 and the protrusion on the back side of the back are also organized in the same way.
- FIG. 14 shows the joining between the protrusions 105 and 106 and the sleeve.
- 105b and 106b are protrusions on the back body side
- 104b is the back body
- 108b and 110b are back sleeves
- L3 is an outer end line of both sleeves.
- Step 21 is the state before joining.
- the back sleeve 108b is transferred to the upper needle bed opposite to it, and in Step 23, the back body 104b is racked to the left side of the figure.
- the stitches of the protruding 105b are overlapped with the stitches of the rear sleeve 108b and joined by the joining line 112.
- the back sleeve 108b is returned to the original-one dollar bed.
- step 25 move the front sleeve 108 to the opposite upper needle bed.
- step 26 the front body 104 is moved relative to the left side of the figure, and the protrusion 105 is joined.
- the rear sleeve 110b is transferred to the upper one-dollar bed, and at step 28, the rear body 104b is moved to the right side of the figure and the protrusion 106b is joined.
- the front sleeve 110 is moved to the opposite upper-single-dollar bed, and in step 31, the front body 104 is moved to the right side of the figure while forming the joint line 112 at the protruding portion 106, and the front sleeve is formed.
- joining along the joining lines 112b, 116a, and 116b in FIG. 11 and knitting of the sleeves and the body are performed.
- FIG. 15 schematically shows the number of force stitches showing steps 22 and 23 in FIG. 14 in detail.
- the left side of Fig. 15 shows the process of joining the rear sleeve to a protrusion (not shown), and the right end shows the process of turning the front sleeve to the rear sleeve one by one at the other end of the garment.
- Symbols such as 1P in the figure indicate the pitch (number of eyes) of the left-right movement at the time of transfer.
- knitting from bottom to top first knitting the back sleeve one course, and transferring only the stitches of all the back sleeves and the protruding end of the back body to the front side.
- the stitch of the sleeve at the other end of the garment is turned to the back of the first stitch, the stitch is reduced by one stitch at the front and the back.
- the stitch is reduced by one stitch at the front and the back.
- the fourth eye is moved to the rear side so as to be moved to the right by one pitch
- the first eye is moved to the rear side
- the second eye is formed.
- the back sleeve stitches are moved to the rear side by shifting the stitches of the back sleeve 1 pitch 2 to the right, forming another double stitch.
- the stitches on the sleeves on the other end of the garment Move to the side.
- the protrusion 105b can be joined. Connect the other protrusions in the same way.
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Machines (AREA)
Abstract
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Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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JP2004345824 | 2004-11-30 | ||
JP2004-345824 | 2004-11-30 |
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WO2006059612A1 true WO2006059612A1 (ja) | 2006-06-08 |
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2014114513A (ja) * | 2012-12-07 | 2014-06-26 | Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd | 筒状編地の編成方法、および筒状編地 |
CN105937088A (zh) * | 2015-03-06 | 2016-09-14 | 株式会社岛精机制作所 | 针织品 |
CN106480592A (zh) * | 2016-12-29 | 2017-03-08 | 湖州汉和制衣有限公司 | 一种立体毛衣编织结构及其编织方法 |
Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS5812229U (ja) * | 1981-07-14 | 1983-01-26 | 旭化成株式会社 | 縫製品 |
JPH01221503A (ja) * | 1988-02-23 | 1989-09-05 | Yoshiki Matsuo | 背広上着の製造方法 |
JPH1136118A (ja) * | 1997-07-14 | 1999-02-09 | Toray Ind Inc | 衣 服 |
JP3071594U (ja) * | 1999-07-16 | 2000-09-14 | スミクラ株式会社 | 袖付脇下部に伸縮部を有するよう裁断して縫製する合羽。 |
WO2001088243A1 (fr) * | 2000-05-17 | 2001-11-22 | Shima Seiki Mfg.,Ltd. | Methode d'assemblage d'elements tricotes |
-
2005
- 2005-11-29 WO PCT/JP2005/021902 patent/WO2006059612A1/ja active Application Filing
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS5812229U (ja) * | 1981-07-14 | 1983-01-26 | 旭化成株式会社 | 縫製品 |
JPH01221503A (ja) * | 1988-02-23 | 1989-09-05 | Yoshiki Matsuo | 背広上着の製造方法 |
JPH1136118A (ja) * | 1997-07-14 | 1999-02-09 | Toray Ind Inc | 衣 服 |
JP3071594U (ja) * | 1999-07-16 | 2000-09-14 | スミクラ株式会社 | 袖付脇下部に伸縮部を有するよう裁断して縫製する合羽。 |
WO2001088243A1 (fr) * | 2000-05-17 | 2001-11-22 | Shima Seiki Mfg.,Ltd. | Methode d'assemblage d'elements tricotes |
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2014114513A (ja) * | 2012-12-07 | 2014-06-26 | Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd | 筒状編地の編成方法、および筒状編地 |
CN105937088A (zh) * | 2015-03-06 | 2016-09-14 | 株式会社岛精机制作所 | 针织品 |
CN106480592A (zh) * | 2016-12-29 | 2017-03-08 | 湖州汉和制衣有限公司 | 一种立体毛衣编织结构及其编织方法 |
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