Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
  • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
  • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/88—Polyamides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
  • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

• the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions used in the field of care and makeup. These are emulsions mainly comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase and further comprising a fine and porous powder.
• the invention relates more particularly to cosmetic compositions for care and / or makeup having a continuous fat phase, the latter may be composed of different types of oils, volatile or non-volatile, of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin.
• compositions according to the invention of surfactants, thickeners, and more generally surfactants makes it possible to obtain a stable dispersion from one phase to the other. It is also possible in these compositions to have additives such as preservatives and perfumes, but also cosmetic active agents such as moisturizers (polyols), anti-UV agents, anti-wrinkles, self-tanners, film-forming agents, antioxidants and many others. .
• the invention also relates to a process for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hairs of a human being, including the application of the composition according to the invention on keratin materials.
• the composition according to the invention may be a composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular a facial care composition (cream or fluid), a body care composition (moisturizing, slimming), a composition of water-resistant or water-resistant sunscreen, a composition for making up the skin, such as a false bottom, an eyeshadow, a blusher , a concealer product, a body make-up product.
• a facial care composition cream or fluid
• a body care composition moisturizing, slimming
• a composition of water-resistant or water-resistant sunscreen a composition for making up the skin, such as a false bottom, an eyeshadow, a blusher , a concealer product, a body make-up product.
• the makeup compositions generally comprise, on the one hand, a pulverulent phase comprising in particular pigments and fillers and, on the other hand, a fatty phase, the fillers and the fatty phase being intended to give the finished product a certain density, to give a softness and an emollient property to the makeup product and to promote its adhesion to the skin.
• compositions of the continuous fat phase type have numerous cosmetic and galenical advantages.
• the fatty phase according to the invention comprises solid or liquid fatty substances of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.
• Iî hydrocarbons essentially comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally nitrogen and oxygen atoms. These formulations are indeed advantageously compatible with the skin and its lipid constituents.
• the formation of a film on the surface of the skin helps to limit the evaporation of the water contained in the layers of the skin and to preserve the hydration thereof, thus ensuring a good protection of the skin vis-à-vis the skin. with respect to desiccation. Mention may also be made of silicone oils and fluorinated oils.
• the active ingredients are most often lipophilic, they can be dispersed or dissolved more easily in the phase
• the continuous and hydrophobic fatty phase also constitutes a protective environment for these active ingredients. Indeed, body fluids (tears, perspiration) or water tend to remove these active ingredients from the surface of the skin by washing or trickling. The incompatibility of water with the fatty phase
• a water / oil emulsion comprising a fine and porous powder according to the invention makes it possible to solve this technical problem. It notably reduces significantly the oily and tacky effect provided by the oils and / or polyols of the cosmetic compositions.
• a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetic base, a perfume and a powder formed of spherical, cylindrical or dumbbell-shaped polyamide particles (abbreviated to PA). These particles are porous, have an average diameter of 1 to 30 ⁇ m, a specific surface area of 5 m 2 / g or more, an absorption of linseed oil of 200 ml / 100 g or more, a crystallinity of 40% or more and a ratio of the average volume diameter to the number average diameter of 1.0 to 1.5.
• the cosmetic compositions described in this document preferably contain from 3 to 10% by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the powder of these cosmetic compositions causes a light-diffusing effect on the surface of the skin and has a high absorption capacity of the sebum, which prevents the appearance of oily and shiny areas on the face.
• the document FR 2854064 of L'OREAL relates to a make-up composition that can absorb sebum, thus making it possible to have a make-up having good cosmetic properties over time, in particular having good resistance to rubbing, non-transfer properties, a good homogeneity, a maintenance of the initial color of the makeup and a lack of shine (holding of the dullness).
• This composition comprises:
• BET BET (see below) greater than or equal to 300 m 2 / g, preferably greater than 500 m 2 / g, associated with a second powder having a particular critical surface energy which does not impregnate the sebum and prevents the latter from modify the cosmetic properties of makeup.
• the subject of the invention is a water / oil emulsion comprising a porous powder, the particles of the powder having the following characteristics: an apparent specific surface area of 1 to 299 m 2 / g measured by nitrogen absorption according to the BET ISO 9277 method;
• the emulsion is characterized in that the powder has an absorption of linseed oil of 50 g / 100 g of powder at 150 g / 100 g of powder.
• the emulsion is characterized in that the apparent specific surface area is from 0.5 to 150 m 2 / g.
• the emulsion is characterized in that the apparent specific surface area is from 0.5 to 100 m 2 / g, advantageously from 0.5 to 50 m 2 / g, and still more preferably from 0.5 to 100 m 2 / g. 40 m 2 / g.
• the emulsion is characterized in that the powder particles have a mean diameter ranging from 2 ⁇ m to 100 ⁇ m, preferably from 2 to 50 ⁇ m, and still more preferably from 2 to 20 ⁇ m.
• the emulsion is characterized in that the powder particles have a spheroidal shape.
• the emulsion is characterized in that the powder is chosen from a powder of polyamide, polyesteramides, polyurethanes, poly (methyl) methacrylates, acrylic polymers, polyesters, silicones, polyethylenes and polyesters. silicas.
• the emulsion is characterized in that its composition is as follows:
• the emulsion is characterized in that the fatty phase comprises less than 25% (by weight relative to the total composition) of volatile oil.
• the emulsion is characterized in that the volatile oil is a silicone oil.
• the emulsion is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises from 10 to 60% of polyols. According to one embodiment, the emulsion is characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic ingredient chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, film-forming polymers, thickeners, ultra-radiation blockers, and the like. violet, vitamins, dyestuffs, emulsion stabilizers, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents and mixtures thereof.
• a cosmetic ingredient chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, film-forming polymers, thickeners, ultra-radiation blockers, and the like. violet, vitamins, dyestuffs, emulsion stabilizers, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents and mixtures thereof.
• the emulsion is characterized in that it is a cream or a facial care fluid, a cream or a moisturizing and / or slimming body care fluid, a sunscreen that is resistant to water or not water resistant, a
• the invention also relates to the use of an emulsion for making a makeup and / or skin care that is non-glossy, non-oily, non-tacky and / or non-tacky.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising the application to these materials of an emulsion as described above.
• the invention relates to the use of a fine and porous powder having the following characteristics: 0 - an apparent specific surface area of 1 to 299 m 2 / g measured by nitrogen absorption according to the BET ISO 9277 method; an absorption of linseed oil between 45 g / 100 g of powder and 1 g / 100 g of powder measured according to ISO 787-5; to improve the feel and / or the appearance of a cosmetic water / oil emulsion.
• the use of the fine and porous powder is characterized in that the apparent specific surface area of said powder is from 0.5 to 150 m 2 / g, measured by nitrogen absorption according to the BET ISO method. 9277.
• the use of the fine and porous powder is characterized in that the powder particles have a mean diameter ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ m.
• the use of the fine and porous powder is characterized in that the powder particles have a spheroidal shape.
• amino acids such as aminocaproic, amino-7-heptanoic, amino-1-undecanoic and amino-12-dodecanoic acids;
• lactams such as caprolactam, oenantholactam, capryllactam and lauryllactam;
• one or more salts or mixtures of diamines such as hexamethylenediamine, dodecamethylenediamine, methaxylyenediamine, bis-p-aminocyclohexylmethane and trimethylhexamethylenediamine with diacids
• Such as isophthalic, terephthalic, adipic, azelaic, suberic, sebacic and dodecanedicarboxylic acids are particularly useful as isophthalic, terephthalic, adipic, azelaic, suberic, sebacic and dodecanedicarboxylic acids.
• lactams By way of example of lactams, mention may be made of those having from 3 to 12 carbon atoms on the main cycle and which may be substituted. For example, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylpropriolactam, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylpropriolactam, amylolactam, caprolactam, capryllactam and lauryllactam may be mentioned.
• the method consists in suspending the lactam in an organic liquid or in solution in a solvent and performing an anionic polymerization 0 to obtain directly PA powder which separates itself from the liquid medium as it develops.
• the method of anionic polymerization of lactams is based essentially on the use of a catalyst such as sodium or one of its compounds such as sodium hydride or sodium methoxide and an activator such as lactam-N- carboxy-anilides, isocyanates, carbodi-imides, cyanimides, acyl-lactams, triazines, ureas, N-substituted imides and esters, inter alia, optionally in the presence of a finely divided mineral or organic filler; having a role of seed of crystallization such as PA powder, silica, talc and in the presence of a N, N'-alkylenebisamide more particularly N, N'ethylene bis stearamide, N, N ethylene bis oleamide, N, N'-
• PA 6 PA 6-6
• PA 11 PA 12
• Nylon 2159V and Nylon 2070V KBO Company
• Covabead Nl 2 and Covabead N 12-10 LCW Company
• Vestosint 7010 BC Vestosint 7020 BC and Vestosint 7040 BC (Company Degussa)
• spherical polyamide 12 powders sold by different companies SP-500, SP501, SP10 (TORAY Company), UBESTA (UBE Company), GPA 700 (Ganz Chemical Company)
• porous spheroidal powders marketed by ARKEMA under the name Orgasol®: Orgasol® 2002 UD NAT COS, Orgasol® 2002 EXD
• copolyamides there may be mentioned copolyamides resulting from the condensation of at least two alpha omega aminocarboxylic acids or two lactams or a lactam and an alpha omega aminocarboxylic acid.
• lactams that can be used are the same as those mentioned above.
• alpha omega aminocarboxylic acid there may be mentioned amino-undecanoic acid and aminododecanoic acid.
• a dicarboxylic acid mention may be made of adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, buttanic acid, 1,4-cyclohexyldicarboxylic acid, terephthalic acid and sodium salt. or lithium sulphoisophthalic acid, dimerized fatty acids, dimerized fatty acids have a dimer content of at least 98%, and are preferably hydrogenated) and HOOC- (CH 2 ) 10 -COOH dodecanedioic acid.
• a diamine it can be an aliphatic diamine having from 6 to 12 atoms, it can be arylic and / or saturated cyclic.
• diamino-hexane diamine polyols, isophorone diamine (IPD), methyl pentamethylenediamine (MPDM), bis (aminocyclohexyl) methane (BACM), bis (3-methyl-4-aminocyclohexyl) methane (BMACM).
• IPD isophorone diamine
• MPDM methyl pentamethylenediamine
• ACM bis (aminocyclohexyl) methane
• BMACM bis (3-methyl-4-aminocyclohexyl) methane
• copolyamides By way of examples of copolyamides, mention may be made of copolymers of caprolactam and lauryl lactam (PA 6/12), copolymers of caprolactam, adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6 / 6-6), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6/12 / 6-6), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, amino-1 undecanoic acid, azelaic acid and of hexamethylenediamine (PA 6 / 6-9 / 1 1/12), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, 1-undecanoic amino acid, adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6 / 6- 6/1 1/12), copolymers of lauryl lactam, azelaic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6-9 / 12).
• Polyamide and / or copolyamide can be used. These are, for example, mixtures of aliphatic polyamides and semi-aromatic polyamides and mixtures of aliphatic polyamides and cycloaliphatic polyamides.
• the powders can be made by any means, dissolved and precipitated in an alcohol.
• polymerization is produced in a solvent, the powders being insoluble in this solvent (anionic polymerization defined above).
• anionic polymerization defined above.
• copolyesteramide powders comprising in moles (the total being 100%):
• lactams that can be used to make the copolyesteramides are the same as those mentioned above. Caprolactam and lauryllactam are advantageously used.
• lactones there may be mentioned caprolactone, valerolactone and butyrolactone.
• Caprolactone is advantageously used.
• silica powder mention may be made of:
• porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB- / 5,700 by the company MYOSHI; "SUNSPHERE® H51”, “SUNSPHERE® H33” by the company
• acrylic polymer powder mention may be made of:
• the powder particles have a spheroidal shape.
• a fatty phase may contain a liquid fatty phase and possibly a solid fatty phase (such as waxes).
• the liquid fatty phase may contain one or more liquid oils at room temperature (25 ° C), these oils are volatile or not.
• the liquid fatty phase is formed of hydrocarbon oils or possibly of silicone oils.
• the fatty phase of the composition is a continuous fatty phase which, with the water, provides an emulsion in the water-in-oil form.
• This fatty phase comprises one or more oils, ie non-water-miscible fatty substances.
• oils ie non-water-miscible fatty substances.
• These volatile or non-volatile oils are of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin and may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated.
• hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
• nonvolatile liquid oil means an oil capable of remaining on the skin at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure. non-zero, less than or equal to 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).
• the liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils which provide an emollient effect on the skin.
• Fatty esters such as cetearyl isononoate, isotridyl isostearyl isostearate isononate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, succinate 2 -diethyl hexyl, diisostearyl malate, glycerine or triglycerine triisostearate, tocopherol acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, be
• oils may be mineral oils: hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin oil, squalane, petroleum jelly and mixtures thereof.
• composition comprises non-volatile silicone oils such as dimethylsiloxanes.
• the liquid fatty phase may also optionally comprise volatile oils.
• volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. This oil has in particular a vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) greater than 0.01 and less than or equal to 300 mmHg.
• the volatile oils are for example chosen from silicone oils which contribute to reducing the fat effect of continuous fat phase formulations. It is possible to cite linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at ambient temperature of less than 8 mm 2 / s and especially having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 atoms. of carbon.
• volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of actamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane and octamethyltrisiloxane. decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
• compositions according to the invention contain at most 25% volatile oil and especially volatile silicone oil, preferably at most 15% (% by weight relative to the total composition).
• the aqueous phase contains water.
• the latter may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as HIVEL water, LUCAS water, LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise constituents that are miscible with water, such as, for example, primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols such as glycols added for their humectant properties: glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl, mono, di or triethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
• primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol
• polyols such as glycols added for their humectant properties: glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol
• the aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compounds compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise surfactants (generally lipophilic) of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type, facilitating the dispersion of the aqueous phase in the fatty phase so as to obtain a stable water / oil emulsion.
• surfactants generally lipophilic
• additives such as preservatives (generally hydrophilic), perfumes (generally lipophilic), different fillers of the powder according to the invention, dyestuffs (soluble dyes, pigments), thickeners (waxes, gelling agents), stabilizers of emulsion (generally hydrophilic), chelators (generally hydrophilic).
• the surfactants may be of ester type such as sorbitan derivatives (ex sorbitan sesquiisostearate), methyl glucose isostearate. They can be of polymeric types such as PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer. They may also be silicone surfactants suitable for emulsifying silicone oils: for example, dimethicone copolyols such as PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC5225C.
• ester type such as sorbitan derivatives (ex sorbitan sesquiisostearate), methyl glucose isostearate. They can be of polymeric types such as PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer. They may also be silicone surfactants suitable for emulsifying silicone oils: for example, dimethicone copolyols such as PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC5225C.
• the thickeners may for example be soluble in the fatty phase to adjust its consistency or contribute to the stability of the composition: mention may be made, for example, of candelilla wax, gums or silicone elastomers (DCl 41 1 and DC9040 from Dow Corning ). Preservatives are mixtures of derivatives of paraben and / or phenoxyethanol.
• I 1 ethylenediaminetetra acetic acid (EDTA) as chelating agent.
• the cosmetic active agents may also comprise cosmetic active agents that provide an improvement in the human keratin materials mentioned above.
• the cosmetic active agents include moisturizers (generally hydrophilic) such as polyols, UV radiation blockers such as organic filters (generally lipophilic) or mineral particles such as 17O2, ZnO surface-treated or not, anti-wrinkles
• hydrophilic generally hydrophilic
• self-tanners generally hydrophilic
• film-forming agents lipophilic or hydrophilic according to their nature
• antioxidants lipophilic or hydrophilic depending on their nature
• dispersions of ZnO and TiO 2 may be mentioned in silicone oil mixtures.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously comprises: • 10 to 75%, preferably 30 to 65% of aqueous phase;
• the aqueous phase for its part preferably comprises 10 to 60% of polyols relative to the total aqueous phase.
• it may comprise 0.5 to 10%, preferably 3 to 5% of surfactants, 0.01 to 2% of additives, 0.005 to 10% of cosmetic active ingredients relative to the total composition.
• the characteristics of the powders of the composition which are the subject of the invention are: 1. the very fine particle size from 2 ⁇ m to 100 ⁇ m, preferably from 2 to 50 ⁇ m, even more advantageously from 2 to 20 ⁇ m; 2. the narrow granuiometric distribution.
• the granulometric distribution of the powders is determined according to the usual techniques, for example using a Coulter Multisizer II granulometer according to the ISO 13319 standard. From the granulometric distribution, it is possible to determine the average diameter as well as the dispersion. granuiometric (standard deviation) which measures the tightening of the distribution. It is one of the advantages of the method described that it is possible to obtain a narrow distribution with a standard deviation of between 1 and 3 ⁇ m, and often less than 2 ⁇ m.
• the shape of the particles advantageously spheroidal, that is to say in the form of spheroid / 0 which means: solid approximately spherical.
• the surface porosity characterized by the apparent specific surface area (SSA) of the powders of from 0.5 to 299 m 2 / g, preferably from 0.5 to 150 m 2 / g, more preferably from 0.5 to 100 m 2 / g, advantageously from 0.5 to 50 m 2 / g, more advantageously from 0.5 to 40 m 2 / g, measured by nitrogen absorption according to the
• the SSA apparent surface area is determined according to the BET method (Brunauer-Emmet-Telier) described in International Standard ISO 9277.
• the BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (therefore micropores included) of the powder.
• the method of setting linseed oil or absorbing linseed oil from a powder is described in ISO 787-5. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder.
• An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and 5 g is placed in a glass beaker and then flaxseed oil is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops, the oil is incorporated in the powder using a spatula and the oil is continued to add until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with a spatula. The addition of the oil is stopped when a solid ball is obtained. We then note the mass 5 expressed in g) of the oil used. Taking linseed oil or absorbing linseed oil is expressed in m / m 2 (g of oil / g of powder) is then converted into g / 100 g of powder.
• Tables 1 to 4 are defined as follows: 1. Powder 1: Orgasol®2002EXD NAT COS, ie PA 12 powder, particle size 10 ⁇ m, SSA 4 +/- 1 , 5 m 2 / g, taken of linseed oil of 79g / 100g.
• Powder 2 Orgasol®2002D NAT COS powder PAl 2, particle size 20 ⁇ m, SSA 1, 5 +/- 1 m 2 / g, flax oil intake of 54g / 100g.
• Powder 3 Orqasol® 1002D NAT COS PA6 powder, particle size 20 ⁇ m, / 0 SSA 2.5 +/- 1 m 2 / g, flax oil intake of 64g / 100g.
• the TEMOIN composition does not include powder.
• compositions comprising the Powders 1 to 4 are defined below for each table.
• compositions were the subject of a sensory profile study, conducted by a panel of five experts according to the following descriptions: during the application phase of the product: fat, oily, rapid penetration 0 immediately after application : the shine of the skin, the softness of the skin, the oily skin effect, the sticky skin effect, the residue left by the cream on the skin.
• composition is analyzed blind by comparison of all the tests forming a series.
• the results are summarized in TABLES 1 to 4.
• the different criteria were evaluated on a scale from 0 to 8.
• the value 0 indicates the absence of the designated criterion (for example a sensation of absence of fat); the value 8 indicating a very marked tendency for the chosen criterion (for example a very important sensation of presence of fat).
• compositions A to C and Control 1 of TABLE 1 are compositions of the Water in Silicone emulsion type, comprising a high glycerin content corresponding, for example, to day cream compositions.
• the process for preparing the compositions below consists in (i) combining the aqueous phase, (ii) combining the fatty phase, (iii) adding the aqueous phase to the fatty phase slowly while stirring vigorously so as to form an emulsion then (iv) slowly add the powder (except for the control) with gentle shaking.
• Control 1 x ⁇ 0% powder.
• Composition B: x 3.5% powder 2.
• compositions D to G and Control 2 of TABLE 2 are compositions of the Water in Silicone emulsion type, which may correspond, for example, to mild moisturizing fluids.
• the process for preparing the compositions below consists of (i) combining the preservatives at 60 ° C. (named aqueous phase 2) and adding them to the aqueous phase (called aqueous phase I), (ii) combining the fatty phase while stirring with Rayneri equipment in a cold bath, (iii) slowly add with stirring the aqueous phase mixture 1 + aqueous phase 2 prepared in (i) the fat phase prepared in (ii) and then (iv) slowly add the powder (except for the control) in
• the addition of powder decreases the feeling of fat and the residual stickiness on the skin.
• PA powder makes it possible to suppress the fatty effect associated with silicone oils and polyols during application. This also allows, after application, to obtain a powdered finish and a soft feeling despite the evaporation of volatile silicone oils while in the absence of the powder according to the invention, an unpleasant effect is obtained.
• compositions H to J and the control 3 of TABLE 3 are compositions comprising of the type emulsions Water in Oil. These compositions correspond, for example, to "waterproof” sunscreen formulations.
• the manufacturing process of the formulation below consists of (1) mixing the constituents of the aqueous phase by heating at 70 ° C., (2) mixing the constituents of the fatty phase (called fat phase 1) by heating at 70 ° C. The thickener (called fatty phase 2), and the sunscreens are then added to the fatty phase maintained at 70 ° C. Finally, the aqueous phase is added in the fatty phase with shear stirring to obtain the emulsion. The emulsion is then cooled to room temperature and the polyamide powder is dispersed in the emulsion with gentle stirring.
• Composition H: x 3.5% powder 1.
• Composition I: x 3.5% powder 2.
• Composition J: x 3.5% powder 3. TABLE 3
• PA powders in an emulsion Water in Oil can significantly reduce the sensation of fat and tacky after application on the skin.
• the white appearance of the skin due to the physical sunscreens is strongly attenuated.
• compositions D and E and Control 2 are described above.
• Non-spheroidal PA powder consisting of angular grains and variable sizes, average size 8 ⁇ m and SSA 4 m 2 / g.
• spheroidal fine powder there is an improvement in the softness of the skin after application of the cream on it by virtue of the presence of the spheroidal fine powder in the composition according to the invention.

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• 2004
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