WO2006023273A2 - Toile de velours multicolore et processus - Google Patents

Toile de velours multicolore et processus Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006023273A2
WO2006023273A2 PCT/US2005/027498 US2005027498W WO2006023273A2 WO 2006023273 A2 WO2006023273 A2 WO 2006023273A2 US 2005027498 W US2005027498 W US 2005027498W WO 2006023273 A2 WO2006023273 A2 WO 2006023273A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarns
component
shrinkage
pile
fabric
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PCT/US2005/027498
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English (en)
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WO2006023273A3 (fr
Inventor
Andre M. Goineau
Howard C. Willauer
Michael A. Keller
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Milliken & Company
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Publication of WO2006023273A2 publication Critical patent/WO2006023273A2/fr
Publication of WO2006023273A3 publication Critical patent/WO2006023273A3/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles

Definitions

  • This disclosure relates generally to a method for selectively imparting multiple colors in a pattern configuration to a textile fabric having a multi-level pile or napped surface in which the surface pile or nap contains individual yarns comprised of two or more component yarns or fibers with different shrinkage and dyeing characteristics, and to the resulting multi-colored patterned fabric.
  • this disclosure relates to a product and process in which the face of a pile or napped fabric is formed from yarns of at least two different types, having different shrinkage characteristics and different dyeing characteristics, and wherein one of the yarns is a textured yarn.
  • the formed fabric is exposed to a shrinkage agent, such as heat, which can be applied uniformly or selectively (i.e., in a pattern).
  • yarns of one type comprising the pile or nap are preferentially shrunk relative to yarns of the other type(s).
  • the yarns also dye differently when dye is applied to the fabric, which may also be done uniformly or selectively, and which may occur prior to or following the application of the shrinkage agent.
  • the height of such yarns is lowered, thereby allowing other yarns to become more exposed and therefore more visually prominent.
  • such visually prominent yarns may have a different color, reflectivity, or other visually distinguishing characteristic as compared with the face yarns that are less exposed. It is contemplated that, where the shrinkage agent and the dye are both applied selectively in a pattern configuration, the different patterns may be in registry, if desired.
  • Figures IA through IE are process flow diagrams for several embodiments of the development described herein, in which (1) overall dyeing of yarns or fabrics, (2) pattern-wise shrinkage of fabrics, and (3) pattern-wise dyeing of fabrics may be optionally included and/or sequenced to produce pile fabrics in accordance with the teachings herein.
  • Figures 2A and 2B show, diagrammatically, a cross section of a cut pile fabric comprised of collaged bi-component yarns in which both yarns are textured, as discussed in Examples 1-3 herein.
  • the fabric has not been treated by the selective application of heated air streams; in Figure 2B, the fabric has been so treated.
  • Figures 3A through 3D show, diagrammatically, a cross section of a cut pile fabric comprised of non-collaged bi-component yams in which only one yarn is textured.
  • one of the yarns (Yarn 1) is flat polypropylene, while the other (Yarn 2) is a textured polyester.
  • Figure 3A depicts the pile with no selective shrinkage;
  • 3B depicts the pile following the selective application of heated air streams only on the face of the fabric;
  • Figure 3C depicts the pile following the selective application of heated air streams only on the back of the fabric;
  • Figure 3D depicts the pile following the selective application of heated air streams on both the face and the back of the fabric.
  • Figures 3E and 3F show, diagrammatically, a cross section of a cut pile fabric comprised of tri-component yarns in which two of the yarns are tacked together and the third yarn is flat, as discussed in Example 8 herein.
  • the fabric has not been treated by the selective application of heated air streams; in Figure 3F, the fabric has been so treated.
  • Figures 4A and 4B show, diagrammatically, a cross section of a loop pile fabric comprised of collaged bi-component yarns in which one yarn is textured and one yarn is flat, as discussed in Example 9 herein.
  • the fabric has not been treated by the selective application of heated air streams; in Figure 4B, the fabric has been so treated.
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic side elevation view of apparatus for heated pressurized fluid stream treatment of a moving, needled, textile fabric to impart a surface pattern or change in the surface appearance thereof;
  • FIG. 6 is an enlarged partial sectional elevation view of the fluid distributing manifold assembly of the apparatus of FIG. 5;
  • FIG. 7 is an enlarged broken away sectional view of the fluid stream distributing manifold housing of the manifold assembly as illustrated in FIG. 6;
  • FIG. 8 is an enlarged broken away sectional view of an end portion of the fluid stream distributing manifold housing;
  • FIG. 9 is a graph comparing percentage of shrinkage as a function of temperature for a number of fiber types.
  • FIG. 10 is a schematic side elevation view of apparatus for laser beam treatment of a moving textile fabric to impart a surface pattern or change in the surface appearance thereof;
  • Yarn shall mean a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric, and especially to form the face yarns of a pile or napped fabric.
  • Pile-like yarn shall mean a single element comprising the face of a pile or napped fabric; a pile-like yam may be comprised of two or more individual yarns in close physical association; a plurality of such elements collectively form the face of the fabrics contemplated herein (i.e., pile fabrics or napped fabrics).
  • a pile-like yarn can be comprised of a number of fiber filaments commingled or twisted together or a number of filaments laid together, either with or without a degree of twist.
  • Pile fabric shall mean a fabric having a face comprised of pile-like yarns; the term is intended to include pile fabrics and napped fabrics, unless express wording or context indicates otherwise.
  • Component yarn(s) shall refer to the various individual yarns, each having a distinct shrinkage characteristic, that are physically combined (e.g., commingled, collaged, etc.) to form an individual pile-like yarn on the face of the patterned fabrics contemplated herein.
  • individual pile-like yarns will be comprised of at least one relatively low shrinkage yarn and at least one relatively high shrinkage yarn, at least one of which is textured.
  • Bi-component pile yarn shall mean a pile-like yarn comprised of one relatively high shrinkage component yarn and one relatively low shrinkage component yarn.
  • the component yarns will be distinguishable in at least one other visually apparent characteristic (e.g., different color, reflectivity, cross- section, etc.).
  • Multi-component yarn shall mean a pile yarn comprised of at least three component yarns, at least one of which is a relatively high shrink yarn and at least one of which is a relatively low shrink yarn.
  • Other component yarns may have intermediate shrinkage characteristics, or may have similar high or low shrinkage characteristics, but be otherwise distinguishable. In either case, such component yarns typically will be distinguishable in at least one other visually apparent characteristic (e.g., different color, reflectivity, dyeability, etc.).
  • Aesthetic characteristics shall refer to those characteristics relating to the appearance, shape (overall or cross-sectional), or configuration of such yarns, including, but not limited to, their reflectivity, color, or capacity for being dyed using appropriate dyes.
  • Shrinkage as that term is applied to fibers or yarns, shall refer to a lengthwise contraction or shortening of such fibers or yarns, as is associated with boiling water shrinkage or hot air shrinkage, for example. It is also specifically intended to include, without limitation, shortening due to the softening or melting of polymeric fibers or yarns.
  • Low shrink yarns shall refer generally to component yarns that, relative to other component yarns forming the pile-like yarn, exhibit low shrinkage when exposed to a shrinking agent.
  • the shrinking agent is heat and the yarns are polymeric, low shrink yarns are typically those having a relatively high melting point. Yarns that have been dyed prior to such heat treatment tend to become low shrink yarns, even if, in undyed form, the yarns exhibited significant shrinkage.
  • High shrink yarns shall refer generally to component yarns that, relative to other component yarns forming the pile-like yarn, exhibit high shrinkage when exposed to a shrinking agent.
  • the shrinking agent is heat and the yarns are polymeric, high shrink yarns are typically those having a relatively low melting point.
  • Lengthwise-coupled yarn shall mean yarn comprised of at least two separate component yarns that are physically associated with each other to the extent that they can be treated as a single yarn in a fabric forming machine to form the face of the pile or napped fabric contemplated herein.
  • Collaged yarn shall mean a lengthwise-coupled yarn in which the component yarns have been physically commingled or tangled along their length to form a bi- component or multi-component yarn.
  • the method and product that is the subject of this disclosure begins with the formation of a bi- or multi-component yarn that will form the individual pile-like elements on the face of a pile or napped fabric.
  • a characteristic of the development disclosed herein is the use of component yarns containing yarns having significantly different shrinkage characteristics when exposed to similar shrinkage agents.
  • the pile or napped fabric may contain individual pile-like yarns that are comprised of two component yarns (e.g., the pile-like yarn is a bi-component yarn), in which the first such component yarn is of a type that exhibits a first type of shrinkage (e.g., relatively low shrinkage or relatively high melting point characteristics), and the second such component yarn is of a type that exhibits a second type of shrinkage different from the shrinkage of the first component yarn. (e.g., moderate or high shrinkage or low melting point characteristics, relative to the first component yarn type).
  • the yarns is textured.
  • the objective when using a two component yarn is to construct a pile-like yarn which, under the influence of selectively applied streams of heated air or some other means to induce shrinkage of the component fibers (e.g., chemical means, steam, etc.), will cause yarns of the second type to shrink more than yarns of the first type, to a degree that imparts a perceptible visual effect to the face of a fabric containing such pile-like yarns. If the component yarns initially are about the same length, component yarns having the second characteristic will selectively shrink below the level of the component yarns of the first type, thereby exposing more of the latter yarns and causing those yarns to become more observable.
  • some other means to induce shrinkage of the component fibers e.g., chemical means, steam, etc.
  • component yarns of the first type are dyed a different color or are otherwise visually distinguishable (e.g., have increased or decreased reflectivity) from those component yarns of the second type, then the color or other visual effect (e.g., reflectivity) associated with these more observable component yarns of the first type likewise will become more observable.
  • the component yarns used in the formation of the pile-like yarns may be either dyed or undyed prior to the fabric formation process, where the fabric is intended to have dyed pile-like yarns, generally at least one of the component yarns is dyed prior to the fabric formation process, and at least one is dyed following such fabric formation process.
  • this concept can be applied to pile-like yarns containing more than two component yarn types (i.e., multi-component yarns) in which at least one of the component yarn types has a shrinkage characteristic different from the other component yarn types. For example, if a pile-like yarn comprised of three component yarns, each having about the same length but each having a different shrinkage characteristic, is exposed to an appropriate shrinking agent (e.g., selectively applied heated air streams of the proper temperature), the various component yarns will each shrink to a different degree.
  • an appropriate shrinking agent e.g., selectively applied heated air streams of the proper temperature
  • each of the three component yarns is associated (either prior to or following the fabric formation process) with a different color or other visually distinguishing characteristic, a number of different complex visual effects may be generated, depending upon the visual characteristics associated with each of the respective component yarns (e.g., light vs. dark, complementary vs.
  • the angle of the incident light the angle of the applied heated air streams
  • the length and pile or nap density i.e., yarns per substrate unit area
  • the direction and uniformity of pile lay the nature and degree of reflectance associated with the various component yarns (which, in turn, may depend upon the composition, cross- sectional shape, surface smoothness, and color of the component yarns), the manner and extent to which the component yarns are length-wise coupled, and other factors.
  • two of the component yarn types could have similar shrinkage characteristics, thereby providing for situations in which those yarns comprise a majority component.
  • the minority component yarn type has relatively low shrinkage compared with the other component yarn types, it will provide a somewhat subtle visual contribution to the pile or napped face.
  • the minority component yarn type has relatively high shrinkage compared with other component yarn types, such shorter minority yarns will tend to recede into the pile or napped face and allow the visual contribution of the longer majority component yarns to dominate.
  • fabrics having a pile or nap comprised of four (or more) component yarns can be used, with the resulting visual effects having a potential for a correspondingly higher degree of subtlety and complexity. Accordingly, where the following discussions of techniques and process steps refer to pile-like yarns comprised of bi-component yarns, such discussions generally are also applicable to situations in which the pile-like yarns are comprised of multi- component yarns. As discussed above, in most embodiments, at least one of the component yarns is dyed prior to the fabric formation process.
  • yarns of at least one type may be different in length from other yarn types comprising the pile or nap even prior to the application of a shrinkage agent.
  • component yarns that are longer, but have a greater propensity to shrink may be made to shrink below the level of shorter component yarns that have a lesser propensity to shrink. If the initially longer yarns have greater reflectivity, the areas in which shrinkage does not occur will exhibit higher luster, shine, or iridescence than the areas in which the higher reflectivity fibers are shorter or partially hidden by the lower reflectivity component yarns that were initially shorter.
  • the higher-shrinkage component yarns were already shorter than other, relatively low shrinkage component yarns, the length differences between the two yarn types can be enhanced, causing the higher shrinkage yarns to recede further in the direction of the fabric base, with a corresponding increase in visual prominence of the lower shrinkage yarns and accentuation of the multi-level nature of the fabric.
  • Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 are component yarns that are used to construct a yarn used to form the face of a pile or napped fabric.
  • Yam 1 exhibits relatively low shrinkage (i.e., little reduction in yarn length), as compared with Yarn 2, when exposed to a shrinkage agent.
  • the shrinkage agent is heat
  • Yarn 1 preferably has a relatively high melting point or a lower shrinkage capacity (perhaps due to yarn pre-treatment such as package dyeing), as compared with Yarn 2
  • Yam 2 preferably has a relatively low melting point or a higher shrinkage capacity, as compared with Yarn 1.
  • Yarn 2 when exposed to the same shrinkage agent (e.g., heat) under similar conditions, Yarn 2 will shrink more than Yarn 1 to a visually significant degree.
  • Examples of possible fiber types that could be employed in the construction of Yarn 1 include low shrinkage heat set polyester, low shrinkage heat set nylon, or a low shrinkage cellulosic fiber such as rayon, acetate, or cotton.
  • Examples of possible fiber types that could be employed in the construction of Yarn 2 include low melting point polypropylene or high shrink polyester.
  • either Yarn 1 or Yarn 2 is textured.
  • Yarns 1 and 2 may be dyed by any means suitable for the nature of the constituent fibers.
  • yarns comprised of polypropylene, polyester, or nylon fibers may be solution dyed or package dyed, but the use of disperse, cationic, acid, direct, reactive, or VAT dyes is also contemplated, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art, depending upon the composition of the fibers to be used. If polypropylene is used and is intended to carry a color, it is recommended that it be solution dyed for best results.
  • Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 may be individually or collectively dyed or undyed, but if one or both are undyed, then preferably at least one of the undyed yarn(s) is capable of being dyed using conventional dyeing techniques following the fabric formation step. It should be noted that, in the case of package dyed yarns, such yarns characteristically have little propensity to shrink. Accordingly, it has been found that package dyed yarns are better candidates to serve as Yarn 1 (relatively low shrinkage) rather than as Yarn 2.
  • Yarn 3 indicated as optional at 1OC, depicts a situation in which a multi-component yarn comprised of Yarn 1, Yarn 2, and Yarn 3 is used to form the pile-like face.
  • Yarn 3 may be dyed or undyed.
  • the shrinkage characteristics of Yarn 3 most commonly will be different from either Yarn 1 or Yarn 2, i.e., it may be intermediate between the shrinkage characteristics of Yarns 1 and 2, or it may be even higher than that of
  • Yarn 3 may have a shrinkage characteristic that is substantially similar to either Yarn 1 or Yarn 2, or perhaps even less than that of Yarn 1, depending upon the nature of the visual effect to be achieved when a shrinkage agent is applied to the multi-component pile- like yarn.
  • additional yarns e.g., a fourth yarn, a fifth yarn, etc.
  • additional yarns may be used to form multi-component yarns from which the pile or napped fabric is constructed.
  • the shrinkage characteristics of such additional yams may be either similar or different from other yarns; the processing steps described herein apply regardless of the number of different component yarns used, except that separate dying steps may be necessary (depending upon the desired visual effect) following fabric formation if such yarns are undyed prior to the fabric formation process.
  • Step 20 of Figure IA represents the selected process by which the bi- or multi- component yarns that ultimately will form pile-like yarns are generated.
  • This process generally involves the length-wise coupling of two or more component fibers or yarns so that the component fibers or yarns can be treated as a single yarn during the fabric formation process.
  • This coupling may involve the formation of collaged yarns, parallel yarns, twisted or multi-ply textured yarns, or other types of yarns in which two or more individual component yarns are physically associated in a way that forms a bi- or multi-component yarn capable of serving as the pile-like yarns of a pile or napped fabric.
  • candidate processes include methods that result in the generation of a collaged yarn, such as air jet commingling, twisting, use of a stuffer box, etc. or methods used to form textured yarns such as crimping, false twist texturing, air jet texturing (a wet process), etc. It should be understood that the various component yarns can represent a mixture of different deniers, cross-sections, diameters, or the like.
  • the length-wise coupled bi- or multi-component yarn is used in a conventional pile or napped fabric formation process, indicated at Step 50 of Figure IA.
  • a pile or napped fabric formation process indicated at Step 50 of Figure IA.
  • the pile fabric may be formed in a double needle bar knitting machine, which forms a fabric "sandwich", in which the pile face is turned inward and spans opposing backing substrates. It should be noted that if the pile fabric is to be formed on a double needle bar knitting machine, then Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 can be combined by warping Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 individually, on separate beams, and threading an individual warp yarn from each beam through the same needle of the double needle bar knitting machine.
  • Steps 30 and 40 Individually optional processes that may be associated with the formation of the fabric having a pile-like face are indicated at Steps 30 and 40 - one or the other steps may be used, as necessary, depending upon the processes used in the fabric formation Step 50.
  • Step 30 indicates a conventional process commonly associated with the manufacture of, for example, double needle bar fabrics, in which the "sandwich” is slit or split in half, parallel to the plane of the fabric. This process step forms two pile fabrics, each having a pile height corresponding to half the distance that separated the opposing backing substrates.
  • Step 40 represents a process in which the loops are cut, thereby resulting in a fabric having a cut loop pile face, in which individual component yarns presumably are less constrained with respect to shrinkage. This can be achieved by napping, shearing, or any other process that effectively cuts the loops. If a loop pile fabric is to be used without such loop-cutting step, as shown in Figures 4A and 4B and discussed in connection with Example 9, then neither of Steps 30 or 40 is necessary.
  • the loops following the application of a shrinkage agent, tend to provide a coarsened or heathered appearance that may lack the definition possible with a cut pile face, but that may be aesthetically desirable for certain applications. However, it is anticipated that, in most cases, a cut pile fabric will be used due to the higher patterning definition possible.
  • the fabric optionally may be brushed and preferably lightly heat set at a relatively low temperature (one that will not affect shrinkage to any significant degree) and dimensioned to a standard width.
  • the fully formed, lightly heat set fabric that emerges from Step 60 is then ready to be visually enhanced by the application of shrinkage agents causing visible shrinkage of Yarn 2 (the relatively high shrinkage component yarn) relative to Yarn 1 (the relatively low shrinkage component yarn) in accordance with pattern data, indicated at Step 70.
  • this Step 70 could also be used, as desired, to cause pattern-wise shrinkage of other yarns (e.g., Yarn 3, Yarn 4, etc.) relative to Yarn 1.
  • the linear shrinkage of Yarn 1 will be less than about 10%, and preferably less than about 6%, and more preferably less than about 3%, while the linear shrinkage of Yarn 2 will be greater than about 12%, and preferably greater than about 15%, and more preferably greater than about 20%.
  • the shrinkage agent is heated air that is applied to the surface of the fabric.
  • other shrinkage agents such as application of a laser (see below), steam or the application of a liquid shrinkage agent, can be used if desired, so long as the effect is to induce relative shrinkage to one set of yarns (e.g., Yarn 2) without inducing the same linear shrinkage to a second set of yarns (e.g., Yam 1).
  • the application of the shrinkage agent of choice may be done uniformly if a uniform effect is desired, but, perhaps preferably in most applications, may be done selectively, in accordance with pattern information, either to establish a pattern on the fabric or to enhance an existing pattern (e.g., a dyed pattern) by inducing shrinkage of component yarns in registry with selected elements of such existing pattern.
  • pattern information e.g., pattern information
  • an existing pattern e.g., a dyed pattern
  • the temperature of the individually controllable streams of air, as they contact the surface of the fabric is sufficient to cause localized shrinkage or melting of the high shrinkage or low melting point component yarns comprising the pile-like surface, and to cause significantly less shrinkage to other component yarns comprising the pile-like surface.
  • This not only reduces the visual contribution of the shrunken component yarns in those treated areas, but, because the length of the component yarns have been reduced in such areas, the backing substrate may be less hidden by the pile-like surface, and may contribute to the overall visual effect of the fabric in those areas, depending upon the overall construction of the fabric.
  • melting points for the low shrinkage/high melting point component yams will lie within the range of about 460 0 F to about 750 0 F, and preferably between about 480 0 F and about 500 0 F, while melting points for the high shrinkage/low melting point component yarns will lie within the range of about 280 0 F to about 340 0 F, and preferably between about 300 0 F and about 320 0 F.
  • the pile-like face of the fabric prior to the application of the heated air streams, will have uniform pile lay and a relatively uniform color and appearance — the product of the combination of the colors of Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 as they are distributed over the fabric surface during the fabric formation process.
  • the heated air streams are applied selectively, in a pattern configuration, over the surface of the fabric. The effect is to induce selective shrinkage in the pattern areas of one type of component yarn (e.g., the "high shrinkage" Yarn 2), thereby making the visual contribution of another type of component yarn that is not shrunken to the same degree (e.g., Yam 1) more visually prominent.
  • Yarn 1 will now have more visual exposure, its visual characteristics such as color or reflectivity will tend to influence the overall appearance of the pile-like surface in those pattern areas. It is also contemplated that the heated air streams (or other shrinkage agent of choice) may be applied uniformly to the otherwise unpatterned pile-like surface, thereby generating a color formed primarily by the visual differences between component yarns that have been selectively shrunken and those that have not.
  • Step 70 of Figure IA can optionally be followed by a dyeing Step 80, in which the undyed component yarns, if any, forming the pile-like yarns are dyed.
  • this step may be performed using conventional jet dyeing techniques associated with a disperse dye cycle, in which the fabric is formed in a loop and circulated within a conventional jet dyeing apparatus.
  • the undyed component yarn is other than polyester, dyeing processes appropriate to that yarn type may be used.
  • Step 80 may consist of several sequential dyeing steps, perhaps one for each different type of component yarn, in order to achieve the desired effect. If no undyed component yarns are used to form the pile-like surface, Step 80 could be bypassed.
  • the pile-like surface can be selectively dyed in a pattern configuration following ⁇ or prior to — the selective application of the heated air streams.
  • selective dyeing it is recommended that such selective dyeing be carried out without causing appreciable shrinkage of the selectively dyed yarns (or at least shrinkage that is visually similar to that brought about by the selective application of the selected shrinkage agent , e.g., heated air streams).
  • Step IB an example of Sequence No. 2
  • the fabric emerging from Step 60 is dyed (e.g., in a dye jet) prior to being subjected to the pattern-wise shrinkage of Step 70.
  • the depicted process is one in which the process of Figure IB is extended, following the pattern-wise shrinkage step indicated at 70, to include Step 75, in which dye is selectively applied to the fabric.
  • This dye-generated pattern optionally can be in registry with the pattern already imparted to the fabric via Step 70, or can be in a pattern that is complementary to, or completely independent of, the pattern defined by the pile height differences brought about by Step 70.
  • the depicted process is that of Figure 1C with the omission of the initial dyeing step (Step 65 in Figure 1C).
  • the dye-generated pattern may be imparted in Step 75 in registry with the pattern imparted by Step 70, but need not be, depending upon the aesthetic effect desired.
  • the step imparting a pattern defined by pile height differences (achieved using, e.g., the selective application of heated air) and the step imparting a pattern defined by the selective application of dye (Steps 70 and 75, respectively, in Figure ID) are done in reverse order.
  • the pattern defined by pile height differences may be in registry with the dye-generated pattern, or, optionally, may be in a pattern that is complementary to or independent of the dye-generated pattern.
  • the nature of the visual effects obtained using the processes described above is dependent upon a variety of factors, including, importantly, the color of the component yarns, the configuration of the yarns in the tuft, the method of applying the shrinkage agent (e.g., if heated air, whether such air is applied to the face or back of the fabric, or both), and the relative length of the component yarns both before and after the application of a shrinkage agent.
  • the shrinkage agent e.g., if heated air, whether such air is applied to the face or back of the fabric, or both
  • the relative length of the component yarns both before and after the application of a shrinkage agent e.g., if heated air, whether such air is applied to the face or back of the fabric, or both
  • Yarn 1 represents a textured, relatively low shrinkage component yarn
  • Yarn 2 represents a component yarn capable of relatively moderate or high shrinkage and low or no crimp.
  • Yarn 1 or Yarn 2 be capable of being dyed following the fabric formation step, while the other of Yarn 1 or Yarn 2 is incapable of accepting the dyes to be used to dye the formed fabric.
  • Excellent results have been achieved by using, as a Yarn 1, a piece-dyeable yarn.
  • suitable candidate yarns are as follows:
  • Type 1 Yarns (relatively low shrinkage): (a) heat set nylon (preferably, textured) or heat set polyester (flat or textured), or (b) flat or spun cellulosic fiber (e.g., cupramonium rayon, rayon, acetate, cotton).
  • Type 2 Yarns (relatively moderate or high shrinkage): (a) fiat polypropylene, (b) high-shrink nylon (preferably, flat) or polyester (preferably, flat).
  • CPI courses per inch and wales per inch. Unless otherwise specified, all length dimensions are in inches, and all temperature readings are in 0 F and are approximate.
  • Yarn 2 1/150/50 dark pewter package dyed textured polyester (octolobal cross-section) high self-entanglement.
  • Yarn Entanglement Collage, via processing on an RPR Collaging Machine 1st Delivery (A) - disabled to process the flat polypropylene 2nd Delivery (C-D) - draw ratio (D:C) set to 1.03 Speed - 400 m/min Working Jet Pressure - 75 psi
  • Warp 1070 ends of collaged polypropylene/textured polyester on 1 Beam (Bar 3)
  • Brush/Heatset CPI (in) - 28.0, WPI (in) - 33.0, Width (in) - 65"
  • Heated air streams i.e., Millitex ®
  • the fabric yielded a two-color design, due to polypropylene and polyester having different colors. Due to commingling of these two fiber types, the color was determined by the extent of the shrinkage of the lower melting point fiber (e.g., the polypropylene), which, in turn, was controlled by the temperature of the heated air streams applied to the component yarns comprising the pile face of the fabric. Where little shrinkage of both fiber types occurred, the color was a blend of the colors of the respective fibers. Where the heated air streams caused significant shrinkage (due to melting) of the polypropylene yarns, with the polyester yarns being substantially unaffected, the color was predominantly that of the relatively exposed polyester yarns.
  • the lower melting point fiber e.g., the polypropylene
  • Example 2 The same starting yarns were used as in Example 1, but they were processed to form a pile fabric having pile tufts comprised of 2-ply Textured Package Dyed Polyester and 1-ply Solution Dyed Polypropylene, i.e., textured polyester yarns were package dyed and collaged with flat polypropylene yarns and yielded a streak-free fabric base. All processing steps were similar to those listed in Example 1, except the Millitex ® treatment values. Because the relative proportion of lower melting point polypropylene to higher melting point polyester in the pile face determines how much heat is required to create the patterns, the Millitex ® treatment values were as follows:
  • Results were essentially as recited in Example 1, except there were no objectionable streaks.
  • Example 3 The same starting yarns were used as in Example 1, but they were processed to form a pile fabric having pile tufts comprised of 2-ply Textured Package Dyed Polyester and 1-ply Cleartint ® Solution Dyed Polypropylene (Cleartint ® is a colorless polymeric colorant marketed by Milliken & Company, Spartanburg, SC). All processing steps were similar to those listed in Example 1, except the Millitex ® treatment used the following process values:
  • Example 4 Yarn 1: 150/72 Crimson Solution Dyed Polypropylene (delta cross- section); nominal entanglement
  • Yarn 2 (255)-100 56T POY Polyester (round cross-section), nominal entanglement, which was processed on an AFK-Barmag False Twist Texturing Machine by drawing at a 1.70 draw ratio across a contact heater maintained at 330 0 F to yield a 1/150/100 56T Polyester, which was combined in a commingling jet at the end of the process with the 150/72 Crimson Polypropylene (Polypropylene bypassed texturing).
  • Warp Yam 1+2 (textured polypropylene/polyester) on 1 beam (Bar 3); Yam 3 on 1 beam (Bar 4) at 1120 ends/beam
  • Hot Air - 2.5 psi / Blocking Air - 15 psi Dye Dyed a light Beige color (using 1/2 the weight of the fabric to calculate the dye concentrations since the polypropylene will not accept disperse dyes)
  • Yarn 2 a 1/150/50 242T Package Dyed (Dark Pewter) textured Polyester yarn (octolobal cross-section) high degree of texturing/post-entanglement (Milliken & Co. Fabric Style: CDY603)
  • Yarn 1 150/36 Forest Green Solution Dyed Polypropylene (delta cross-section) (Doubled / non-commingled); (high entanglement)
  • Sandwich Heatset CPI (in) - 36.0, CPI (out) - 37.0, WPI (in) - 22.5, WPI (out)
  • Dye Dyed a Dark Shade (Royal Blue) and a Light Shade (Tan)
  • Example 6 The same starting yarns and fabric preparation were used as in Example 6, except that the heated air streams were directed from the back of the fabric, rather than from the front.
  • Example 4 The same starting yarns and fabric preparation were used as in Example 4, except that the heated air streams were directed to both the face and the back of the fabric.
  • Heated air streams i.e., Millitex ®
  • Yarn 1 150/72 Cleartint ® Orange Solution Dyed Polypropylene (delta cross-section); high entanglement
  • Yarn 1 150/40 Bright Acetate (Round cross-section; doubled but not commingled)
  • Yarn 2 1/250/72 BCF Orange Cleartint Solution Dyed Polypropylene (delta cross-section); nominal entanglement
  • Warp 1120 ends warped on each beam
  • Knit 32 GG Double Needle Bar Knit Machine
  • Greige Brush Heatset CPI (in) - 29.0, CPI (out) - 30.0, WPI (in) - 33.0, WPI (out) 34.0, Width (in) - 67.50, Width (out) - 64"
  • Blocking air pressure 15 psi Results: The polypropylene yarns receded into the ground due to their lower melting point, with the acetate fibers remaining in the pile to achieve a two-color pattern effect, resembling the visual effect achieved with other thermoplastic fibers (e.g., polyester and nylon).
  • thermoplastic fibers e.g., polyester and nylon
  • FIG. 5 shows, diagrammatically, an overall side elevation view of apparatus for heated, pressurized gas stream treatment of a textile fabric 10.
  • This apparatus may be used to melt the second, lower melt fibers 7 within a selected area, perhaps comprising a pattern, and retain the first, higher melt fibers 8 in that same area so that the color of the first, higher melt fibers 8 may dominate in these select areas and the combined, resulting color from the combination of the first, higher melt fibers 8 and the second, lower melt fibers 7 may dominate in the remaining untreated areas.
  • the apparatus includes a main support frame including end frame support members, one of which 110 is illustrated in FIG. 5.
  • a main support frame including end frame support members, one of which 110 is illustrated in FIG. 5.
  • a plurality of textile fabric guide rolls which direct an indefinite length of textile fabric 10, from a fabric supply roll 118, past a pressurized, heated gas treating unit, generally indicated at 116. After treatment, the textile fabric 10 is collected in a continuous manner on a take-up roll 114.
  • textile fabric 10 from supply roll 118 passes over an idler roll 136 and is fed by a pair of driven rolls 134, 132 to a main driven textile fabric support roll 126 with the textile fabric 10 between drive roll 132 and textile fabric support roll 126 being overfed and slack with a negative tension in a range of between two and twenty percent with a preferred range of between two and twelve percent.
  • the amount of negative tension or overfeed depends on the construction, fiber type, and other factors related to the textile fabric 10.
  • the overfeed or negative tension must stop before the point at which puckering of the textile fabric 10 occurs.
  • the surface of the textile fabric 10 passes closely adjacent to the heated fluid discharge outlet of an elongate fluid distributing manifold assembly 130 of treating unit 116.
  • the treated textile fabric 4 thereafter passes over a series of driven guide rolls 122, 124 and an idler roll 120 to a take-up roll 114 for collection.
  • fluid treating unit 116 includes a source of compressed gas, such as an air compressor 138, which supplies pressurized air to an elongate air header pipe 140.
  • Header pipe 140 communicates by a series of air lines 142 spaced uniformly along its length with a bank of individual electrical heaters indicated generally at 144.
  • the heaters 144 are arranged in parallel along the length of heated fluid distributing manifold assembly 130 and supply heated pressurized air thereto through short, individual air supply lines, indicated at 146, which communicate with assembly 130 uniformly along its full length.
  • Air supplied to the heated fluid distributing manifold assembly 130 is controlled by a master control valve 148, pressure regulator valve 149, and individual precision control valves, such as needle valves 150, located in each heater air supply line 142.
  • the heaters 144 are controlled in suitable manner, as by temperature sensing means located in the outlet lines 146 of each heater, with regulation of air flow and electrical power to each of the heaters to maintain the heated fluid at a uniform temperature and pressure as it passes into the manifold assembly along its full length.
  • the heaters are employed to heat air exiting the heaters and entering the manifold assembly to a uniform temperature.
  • the preferred operating temperature for any given textile fabric depends upon: the components of the textile fabric, the desired amount of linear shrinkage or melting effect, the speed of transport of the textile fabric, the pressure of the heated pressurized gas, the tension of the textile fabric, the proximity of the textile fabric to the treating manifold, and others.
  • the temperature can range between 300°
  • the heated fluid distributing manifold assembly 130 is disposed across the full width of the path of movement of the textile fabric and closely adjacent the surface thereof to be treated. Although the length of the manifold assembly 130 may vary, typically in the treatment of textile fabric materials, the length of the manifold assembly may be 76 inches or more to accommodate textile fabrics of up to about 72 inches in width.
  • FIG. 6 which is a partial sectional elevation view through the assembly, there is a first large elongate manifold housing 154 and a second smaller elongate manifold housing 156 secured in fluid tight relationship therewith by a plurality of spaced clamping means, one of which is generally indicated at 158.
  • the manifold housings 154, 156 extend across the full width of the textile fabric 10 adjacent its path of movement.
  • first elongate manifold housing 154 is of generally rectangular cross-sectional shape, and includes a first elongate gas receiving compartment 181, the ends of which are sealed by end wall plates suitably bolted thereto. Communicating with bottom wall plate through fluid inlet openings, one of which, 183, is shown in FIG. 6, and spaced approximately uniformly therealong are the air supply lines 146 from each of the electrical heaters 144.
  • the manifold housings 154, 156 are constructed and arranged so that the flow path of gas through the first housing 154 is generally at a right angle to the discharge axes of the gas stream outlets of the second manifold housing 156.
  • manifold housing 154 is provided with a plurality of gas flow passageways 186 which are disposed in uniformly spaced relation along the plate in two rows to connect the first gas receiving compartment 181 with a central elongate channel 188.
  • Baffle plate 192 serves to define a gas receiving chamber in the compartment 181 having side openings or slots 194 to direct the incoming heated air from the bank of heaters in a generally reversing path of flow through compartment 181. Disposed above channel-shaped baffle plate 192 is compartment 181 between the fluid inlet openings 183 and fluid outlet passageways 186 is an elongate filter member 200 which is a generally J-shaped plate with a filter screen disposed thereabout.
  • a second smaller manifold housing 156 comprises first and second opposed elongate wall members, each of which has an elongate recess or channel 208 therein. Wall members are disposed in spaced, coextensive parallel relation with their recesses 208 in facing relation to form upper and lower wall portions of a second gas receiving compartment 210, in the second manifold housing 156. The gas then passes through a third gas receiving compartment 212 in the lower wall member of manifold housing 156 which is defined by small elongate islands 211 approximately uniformly spaced along the length of the member, as shown in FIG. 8.
  • a continuous slit directs heated pressurized air from the third gas receiving compartment 212 in a continuous sheet across the width of the fabric at a substantially right angle onto the surface of the moving textile fabric 10.
  • the continuous slit 215 of manifold 156 may be 0.015 to about 0.030 of an inch in thickness.
  • the continuous slit is preferably maintained between about 0.070 to 0.080 of an inch from the textile fabric surface being treated.
  • this distance from the face of the textile fabric can be as much as 0.100 of an inch and still produce good pattern definition.
  • the deflecting air tubes 226 are spaced twenty (20) to the inch over the seventy-two (72) inch air distributing manifold, although the apparatus has been constructed as coarse as ten (10) to the inch and as fine as forty-four (44) to the inch.
  • Second manifold housing 156 is provided with a plurality of spaced gas inlet openings 218 (FIGS. 6 and 7) which communicate with the elongate channel 188 of the first manifold housing 154 along its length to receive pressurized, heated air from the first manifold housing 154 into the second gas receiving compartment 210.
  • the continuous slit 215 of the second manifold housing 156 which directs a stream of air into the surface of textile fabric 10 is provided with tubes 226 which communicate at a right angle to the discharge axis of continuous slit 215 to introduce pressurized cool air, i.e., air having a temperature substantially below that of the heated air in third gas receiving compartment 212, at the heated gas discharge outlet 216 to deflect selectively the flow of heated air through the continuous slit 215 in accordance with pattern control information.
  • Air passing through the tubes 226 may be cooled by a water jacket which is provided with cooling water from a suitable source, not shown, although such cooling is not required.
  • pressurized unheated air is supplied to each of the tubes 226 from compressor 138 by way of a master control valve 228, pressure regulator valve 229, air line 230, and unheated air header pipe 232 which is connected by a plurality of individual air supply lines 234 to the individual tubes 226.
  • Each of the individual cool air supply lines 234 is provided with an individual control valve located in a valve box 236.
  • These individual control valves are operated to open or close in response to signals from a pattern control device, such as a computer 238, to deflect the flow of hot air through continuous slit 215 during movement of the textile fabric 10 and thereby produce a desired pattern in the textile fabric 10.
  • a pattern control device such as a computer 238, to deflect the flow of hot air through continuous slit 215 during movement of the textile fabric 10 and thereby produce a desired pattern in the textile fabric 10.
  • Detailed patterning information for individual patterns may be stored and accessed by means of any known data storage medium suitable for use with electronic computers, such as magnetic tape, EPROMs
  • Each cool air fluid tube 226 is positioned at approximately a right angle to the plane defined by slit 215 to deflect heated pressurized air away from the surface of the moving textile fabric 10 (FIG. 6) as the textile fabric approaches continuous slit 215.
  • This deflection is generally at about a forty-five (45) degree angle from the path defined by- continuous slit 215, and serves to direct the deflected heated air toward the oncoming textile fabric 10.
  • This deflection is generally at about a forty-five (45) degree angle from the path defined by- continuous slit 215, and serves to direct the deflected heated air toward the oncoming textile fabric 10.
  • This configuration of tubes 226 provides sufficient volume of air in combination with that from the continuous slit 215 to preheat the textile fabric 10 to a temperature preferably short of permanent thermal modification.
  • preheating is not believed to be the result of heat radiation from the manifold, but is rather the result of the exposure of textile fabric 10 to the heated air issuing from continuous slit 215, as that air is diverted by the relatively cool air issuing from tubes 226.
  • the heated air used for this purpose is air that has been diverted, in accordance with patterning instructions, after issuing from continuous slit 215, i.e., this air would be diverted whether or not preheating was desired. Therefore, preheating of the textile fabric is achieved as an integral part of, and is inseparable from, the patterning process, and requires no additional or separate heated air source.
  • the amount of shrinkage is a function of the type of fiber involved and the temperature to which it is subjected.
  • the temperature of the hot air is adjusted to accommodate a particular fiber so that the amount of shrinkage can be controlled regardless of the fabric.
  • the air pressure of the heated gas can range between 0.5 to 10 pounds per square inch with a more practical operating range of 1 to 5 pounds per square inch and a preferred optimal range of 1 to 3 pounds per square inch.
  • the air pressure of the cooler, blocking gas can range between 2 to 18 pounds per square inch with a more practical operating range of 9 to 18 pounds per square inch and a preferred optimal range of 10 to 12 pounds per square inch.
  • the speed of transport of the moving textile web can range between 1 to 25 yards per minute with a more practical operating range of 3 to 18 yards per minute and a preferred optimal range of 6 to 10 yards per minute.
  • FIG. 10 shows, diagrammatically, an overall side elevation view of apparatus for laser treatment of a textile fabric 10 to impart lateral yarn displacement.
  • a textile fabric guide rolls which direct an indefinite length of textile fabric 10, from a fabric supply roll 302, past a laser unit, which is indicated by numeral 320.
  • the treated textile fabric 4 is collected in a continuous manner on a take-up roll 316.
  • textile fabric 10 from supply roll 302 passes over an idler roll 306 to a main driven textile fabric support roll 308.
  • the surface of the textile fabric 10 is hit by the laser beam from laser unit 320 between idler roll 306 and driven treated, textile fabric 4 thereafter passes over a series of driven guide rolls 312, 314 and to take-up roll 316 for collection.
  • Laser unit 320 is preferable a 10.6 micron wavelength, eighty watt, carbon dioxide laser, although any of a wide variety of lasers will suffice.
  • One typical laser of this type is manufactured by Laser Machining, Inc. that is located at 500 Laser Drive, MS 628, Industrial Park, Somerset, Wis. 54025.
  • the preferred range of moving the textile fabric 10 is a speed of one hundred to two hundred inches per minute.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

Une nouvelle toile textile comprend des fils de type velours dans lesquels au moins un fil individuel est texturé, comprenant des fils de type velours individuels qui possèdent des caractéristiques de rétractation différentes et, un procédé de fabrication et de représentation de motif de ces toiles. Lors de l'application d'un agent de rétractation (par exemple des flux d'air chauffé), qu'ils soient appliqués de manière uniforme ou de manière sélective à la surface du velours, les fils individuels se rétractent selon des amplitudes différentes. Par la rétractation des fils à rétractation relativement élevée plus importante que celle de fils contigus à rétractations relativement faible, l'exposition visuelle des fils à rétractation relativement faible est accrue et, la contribution visuelle des qualités esthétiques (par exemple la couleur, la réflexion lumineuse, etc.) de ces fils à rétractations relativement faibles est renforcée.
PCT/US2005/027498 2004-08-19 2005-08-03 Toile de velours multicolore et processus WO2006023273A2 (fr)

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US10/921,718 US20060037154A1 (en) 2004-08-19 2004-08-19 Multi-colored pile fabric and process

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US20050003142A1 (en) * 2003-07-03 2005-01-06 Williamson Curtis Brian Pile fabric, and heat modified fiber and related manufacturing process
US20070207286A1 (en) * 2006-03-06 2007-09-06 Craig Stephen M Floor covering having thermally modified patterned textile layer
US20080044620A1 (en) * 2006-06-22 2008-02-21 Moshe Rock High pile fabrics
US10221520B1 (en) * 2014-04-23 2019-03-05 Robert S. Weiner Yarn twist differential carpet configuration
US9828704B2 (en) * 2015-09-10 2017-11-28 Welspun India Limited Terry article with synthetic filament yarns and method of making same
US10271580B2 (en) 2015-09-14 2019-04-30 Nike, Inc. Apparel item configured for reduced cling perception
BE1023785B1 (nl) * 2016-01-15 2017-07-26 Nv Michel Van De Wiele Werkwijze voor het produceren van een textielproduct
US11021816B2 (en) * 2018-02-21 2021-06-01 Welspun India Limited Soft twist terry article
US11591748B2 (en) 2020-01-14 2023-02-28 Shadow Works, Llc Heat treated multilayer knitted textile of liquid crystal polymer fibers and modified polyacrylonitrile fibers, and process for making same
CN113279108A (zh) * 2021-04-02 2021-08-20 通用技术高新材料集团有限公司 基于莱赛尔纤维的经平绒面料及其制备方法

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