WO2005063193A1

WO2005063193A1 - Combination set and method for the bio-regenerative treatment of skin

Info

Publication number: WO2005063193A1
Application number: PCT/EP2004/014222
Authority: WO
Inventors: Wolfgang Barnikol; Alexander Teslenko
Original assignee: Sanguibio Tech Gmbh
Priority date: 2003-12-22
Filing date: 2004-12-14
Publication date: 2005-07-14
Also published as: DE10360503A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a combination set and a method for the bio-regenerative treatment of skin, in particular human skin, by the sequential use of a composition (1) for cleaning the skin, a composition (2) for conditioning the skin (protective treatment), a micro-emulsion (3) for influencing the skin structure and a composition (4) in crème form for the protective aftercare of the skin. The individual compositions are tailored to one another in such a way that the appearance of the skin can be actively improved. Depending on the active ingredients, said compositions can also be used to produce agents for the dermatological or therapeutic treatment of the skin. Combination sets containing four compositions in separate individual packaging are particularly suitable for both this application and the cosmetic treatment application.

Description

Combination set and method for the bioregenerative treatment of skin

description

Subject of the registration

The present invention relates to a combination set and to a method for bioregenerative treatment, in particular of human skin, by successively using a composition (1) for cleaning the skin, a composition (2) for conditioning (protective treatment) the skin, a micro- Emulsion (3) to influence the texture of the skin and a composition (4) in the form of a cream for protective post-treatment of the skin. The individual compositions are coordinated so that the complexion can be effectively improved. Depending on the active ingredients, they can also be used to produce agents for dermatological / therapeutic treatment of the skin. For this - as well as for cosmetic treatment - combination sets are suitable, which contain the 4 compositions in separate single packs.

State of the art

The skin is the largest organ in humans. It closes off the organism from the outside world and also has other important functional properties; for example, the skin is a sensory organ in various ways. It is used for heat balance, mechanical and bacterial protection, the latter in the form of a low pH. The regeneration time of the skin epithelium is about one month. Of particular importance here is the outermost layer of the skin epithelium, the stratum corneum (horny layer). The horny layer has, in particular, a barrier function, for example with regard to the moisture, the pH value and the oxygen partial pressure. However, the skin of humans ages, visible by increasing wrinkles, roughness, flakyness, flaccidity, wrinkling, brown age spots and thinness. In particular, the flaccidity is a sign of a collagen deficiency and especially the collagen synthesis requires an adequate supply of oxygen. The lack of oxygen supply is also a problem for aging skin. In addition, there is the influence of light and lipid loss, especially when using appropriate cleaning and care products, since their ingredients such as surfactants or emulsifiers can negatively influence the lipid balance. The external supply of oxygen harbors the risk of toxification, since oxygen in itself is toxic in large quantities or in the case of gaseous application. US Pat. No. 5,380,764 describes a composition of vitamins, glucose and hydrogen peroxide in the form of an O / W emulsion as a cream. However, in addition to poor penetration, there is also the problem of physically active oxygen, which can damage the tissue (see above). DE 100 31 741 A1 and 100 34 970 A1 describe gels or emulsions for the skin which have oxygen carriers such as hemoglobin or derivatives thereof. This is intended to improve the skin in the short term by supplying it with oxygen.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin such as gels, lotions, creams containing suitable active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients are known per se. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer is limited in terms of volume and time. The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer is essentially based on covering the skin. This leads to an artificial (second) barrier that is supposed to prevent water loss from the skin and negative environmental influences.

For example, DE A 101 06 228 describes a process with a revitalizing active complex for the skin, consisting of keratin, glycogen and phospholipids as liposomal active substance carriers in an aqueous gel. Fluorocarbons loaded with oxygen and hard magnetic particles in phospholipid particles can provide a better supply of oxygen to the skin. However, it is known that liposomes or other macro particles cannot penetrate the skin and therefore the expected effects only on the skin. Surface can take place (Kirjavainen M., et al Liposome-skin interaction and their effects on the skin permeation of drugs // Eur. J. Pharmac. Sei. 1999, V.7, 279-286).

US Pat. No. 6,358,516 describes a method for cleaning and for therapeutic and cosmetic treatment of the skin by using an aqueous multifunctional active substance composition applied to a cosmetic cloth.

However, as is known, the aqueous solutions can only penetrate into the skin to a limited extent and the expected effects therefore only take place on the surface of the skin.

MicroEmulsions are said to have better, though not deep, penetration. Micro-emulsions are macroscopically homogeneous, thermodynamically stable, biphase systems consisting of two immiscible liquids, which are used both for transport for medication and in cosmetics, whereby in the latter case there should be no systemic effect, cf. Bourrel M., et al. Microemulsions and related systems: formulation, solvency and physical properties. Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, 1988 or Dormsch A .: The Cosmetic Preparations Volume II. Publishing House for Former Industry, H. Ziokowsky KG, Ausburg, 1992). For example, WO 98/15254 (EP 0930 866) discloses W / O micro-emulsion gels for various cosmetic preparations such as lotion, shower lotion, deodorant spray and others which contain crosslinkers such as dimethicone copolyols. US Pat. No. 6,315,989, US Pat. No. 6,207,140, US Pat. No. 5,876,702, EP A 1 092 414 describe microemulsions for dyeing hair or as UV protection, which surfactants have HLB from 12 to 16 or temperature-dependent lipophilic emulsifiers , US Pat. No. 5,389,607 describes alcohol-free micro-emulsions which have a polyglycerol, phosphate ester and a PEG-based surfactant. All of these examples show that although previous products were intended to have an effect on the surface of the skin, as mentioned, individual components of the agents used can simultaneously trigger opposite effects. Furthermore, it is apparently not possible to penetrate deep enough, and the supply of oxygen to the skin is inadequate. In addition, there is a risk of a corneolytic effect with micro-emulsions.

Object of the present invention

The aim of the present invention was to overcome the disadvantages described and to provide a method and means for this, with which bioregeneration of the skin is possible. Good transport of active ingredients, i. H. good penetration and permeation of desired substances into the skin up to the vital cells of the stratum germinativum. At the same time, negative effects of ingredients such as emulsifiers or surfactants, which are generally contained in skin treatment products, or which result from products themselves, are to be avoided. In particular, the supply of oxygen to the skin is avoided while avoiding toxic effects by oxygen, the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer are positively influenced, the natural biochemical processes in the skin (support of cell activity and the biosynthesis of structural polymers of the skin, such as Collagen, elastin, glucosaminoglucans) are supported and the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and in particular the lamellae of intercellular lipids (ceramides or ceramide analogues) are strengthened or restored.

Another purpose of the invention is to use such means and methods, in particular degenerative skin damaged or altered by external or immunological influences, to further effectively treat the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging both cosmetically and dermatologically / pharmaceutically or their prophylaxis without causing any risk of side effects.

Solution of the task The object is achieved according to the invention by the combined application on skin, in particular of humans, of 4 different ones on top of each other coordinated products in the following steps in a particularly compensatory manner:

Cleaning with composition (1) removes both dirt from the environment and residues of cosmetic (decorative) preparations (powder, make-up, cream or films) from the skin, and in preparation for the next step, the hydro-lipid -Coat of the skin loosened. In step 2 (skin conditioning, skin prevention), the skin is further prepared for use in step 3. In this step 3, a "skin opening" is carried out using a micro-emulsion (3) in order to penetrate the skin and keratinoplastic properties of the micro-emulsion to "transport" the active substances into the stratum corneum (locks). In step 4, the skin is "closed" again by treatment with a build-up cream (4). This is particularly suitable for protecting the skin against negative influences of the micro-emulsion and for supporting skin regeneration, in particular through regeneration of the lipid double layer (by means of lipid components), regeneration of the hydro-lipid coat, support of the water content of the skin, protective film formation, support of collagen and glucosamine glucan synthesis and antioxidative properties. With such preparations, the skin of mammals, especially the Humans, can be treated cosmetically, dermatologically or even with pharmaceutical medicine.

According to the invention, the skin of mammals, in particular humans, can be treated.

Further explanation of the invention

In Table 1, the compositions used according to the invention (1) to

(4) and their functions explained: Table 1 :

Preparations and their functions in bioregenerative skin treatment.

According to the invention, the following products in particular are used in combination:

For cleaning, a composition (1) is selected containing 0.1 to 40% surfactants, 1 to 20% of one or more mono- or polyhydric alcohols and 0 to 30% active ingredients, 0 to 20% additives and the balance water. A composition (2) containing 1 to 15% of one or more mono- or polyhydric alcohols, 0 to 30%, preferably 0.1 to 30% of one or more active ingredients, 0 to 20%, preferably 0.1, is used for the conditioning up to 20%, additives and the rest water. In particular, active ingredients are selected here from keratinoplastic agents, antioxidative substances, anti-inflammatory substances, metabolically active substances, humectants, vitamins or their mixtures. These active ingredients are explained in more detail below. In particular, pH regulators, diffusion enhancers, gel formers or combinations thereof are possible as additives. These are explained in more detail below.

A W / O micro-emulsion with binary phase and active substance differentiability, which is free of crosslinking agents and 45 to 90% by weight of a liquid oil phase, 5 to 40% by weight of a mixture of one or more, is chosen in particular as composition (3) W / O and one or more O / W emulsifiers in a ratio of 1: 4 to 1: 1, 2; 0.01 to 20% by weight of one or more co-emulsifiers; 0 to 15% by weight of one or more mono- or dihydric C-i-alcohols; 1 to 10% by weight of water, 0 to 30% of active ingredients (preferably 0.001 to 30%, in particular 0.001 to 20%) and 0 to 20%, preferably 0.1 to 20% of additives. In particular, the micelles of this primary microemulsion have a particle size of 20 to 400 nm, the emulsion being converted into a secondary W / O microemulsion by reaction with a water phase or being convertible into an O / W microemulsion. Accordingly, a secondary W / O or O / W micro-emulsion obtained from this primary micro-emulsion with ingredients as described by reaction with water can also be selected for (3).

In a further embodiment, the composition (3) preferably contains 0.1 to 15%, in particular 0.1 to 10% alcohol. In particular, active ingredients with the following effects are used here: oxygen-supplying (oxygen carriers), kerafinoplastic (keratin-releasing), antioxidative, anti-inflammatory agents, astringents, metabolically active agents, substances, vitamins and humectants or mixtures thereof. Diffusion promoters and pH regulators and electrolytes are particularly suitable additives. The micro-emulsion, which in addition to an oil and a water phase has a system of W / O and O / W emulsifiers together with certain co-emulsifiers and possibly lower alcohols, can be used simultaneously water-soluble as well as fat-soluble active ingredients are incorporated without causing instability.

To carry out step 4, a composition (4) is preferably used which contains 0.5 to 70% fat phase, 0.5 to 40%, in particular 1 to 40%, preferably 5 to 40 and very particularly 5 to 30% of one or more Emulsifiers, 0.01 to 20% by weight co-emulsifiers, 0 to 20%, preferably 0.1 to 20%, in particular 1 to 15% additives, 0 to 30%, in particular 0.1 to 30, and especially 0, 1 to 10% by weight of active ingredients and the rest water. The active ingredients here are preferably selected from astringents, emollients, antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, metabolically active substances, humectants, vitamins or mixtures thereof.

Products in which the emulsifier (s) used in compositions (3) and (4) are selected from the group of nonionic O / W emulsifiers with HLB value> 8, W / O emulsifiers with HLB value of are particularly preferred <8, and the fat phase comprises suitable components selected from synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils.

Also preferred are products (1), (2), (3) and (4), which preferably contain 0.1 to 25% additives selected from the groups of preservatives, gelling agents, electrolytes, buffers, diffusion enhancers and chelating agents ,

A preferred embodiment comprises combination sets, in which with microemulsions (3) and composition (4), 0.001 to 30% by weight or 0.1 to 30% by weight of one or more water-soluble or fat-soluble active ingredients or mixtures of water- and fat-soluble Contain active ingredients and / or additionally 0.1 to 20% by weight of additives.

It is also advantageous if the micro-emulsion (3) 50 to 80% by weight of an oil phase, 5 to 40% by weight of a mixture of one or more W / O and one or more O / W emulsifiers; 0.1 to 10% by weight of one or more lecithins, phosphatidylcholines and derivatives or mixtures thereof as co-emulsifiers; 0 to 10 wt.%, Especially 1 -10%, of one or more mono- or dihydric C-8 alcohols and 1 to 10 wt.% Water or aqueous solutions having. Secondary O / W or W / O micro-emulsions obtained from this by reaction with water are also particularly preferred.

In addition, it is preferred if the micro-emulsion (3) biological oxygen carriers selected from native, modified or unmodified hemoglobin or mixtures thereof, in particular native porcine hemoglobin, in a total amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10 % By weight ». In a further preferred embodiment, this micro-emulsion (3), which contains oxygen carriers, furthermore has antioxidants, in particular selected from glutathione, superoxide dismutase, melatonin, flavonoids, glucose and amino acids, protein hydrolysates, mono- and oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, metabolically active substances or Mixtures of these.

In a further embodiment, such as previously described micro-emulsions (3) are used with the products (1) and (2) and a composition (4) which as active ingredients are antioxidants, in particular selected from: glutathione, superoxide dismutase, melatonin, Flavonoids, as well as amino acids, glucose or mixtures thereof. Finally, it is particularly preferred if the combination treatment is carried out with the following compositions: composition (1) containing 1 to 20% by weight of surfactants, 1 to 10% alcohol, water, 0.1 to 20% additives / active substances; Composition (2), water, alcohol as indicated, 0.1 to 20% additives, 0.1 to 10% by weight »active substances, selected from trimethylglycine, chito-oligosaccharides, and chitosan; Composition (3) containing oil, water, emulsifier, co-emulsifiers, 0.1 to 15% alcohol, additives, oxygen carriers as described above and composition (4) containing 40 to 55% water, 20 to 35% fats, 4 to 10% emulsifiers / co-emulsifiers, additives as indicated and 1 to 10% active ingredients, selected from antioxidants, amino acids, mono- and oligosaccharides or mixtures thereof. Unless stated otherwise, the alcohols used in the above compositions are selected from short-chain and long-chain alcohols (ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, octanol) and glycols (Propylene glycol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol). Ethanol, propanol, 1,2-octanediol, propylene glycol, alone or in a mixture, are particularly preferred. Ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. The quantities given relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise.

Detailed description of the compositions / application steps

I. Cleaning

To clean the skin, aqueous compositions are selected in the form of facial tonic or cleansing gels, the latter being preferred.

Furthermore, there are surfactants, in particular in an amount of 0.1% to 40%, preferably 1 to 30% and in particular 2 to 20%, 0-20%, in particular 0.1 to 20% of additives, and 0-30%, preferably 0.1 to 15% active ingredients and 1 to 20%, in particular 1 to 15% alcohol. Preferred additives are gel formers, in particular Carbopol or Hispagel (Cognis), acidic buffer solutions and one or more metabolically active substances, such as amino acids, peptides and protein hydrolyzates, furthermore emollients, moisturizers, one or more additives, anti-inflammatory, ( possibly bactericidal), keratin-dissolving substances or mixtures thereof, as described below.

The surfactants of the facial tonic and gel cleanser used according to the invention are advantageously selected from the following groups:

Anionic surfactants, such as ether carboxylic acids, sarcosides, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkyl taurides; Amide ether sulfates, sulfonic succinic acid esters and their salts, for example disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, fatty acid sarcosinates, alkyl amino acid and their salts, for example monoethanolamine lauryl sulfates and triethanolamine lauryl sulfates. Ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate are particularly preferred; Magnesium lauryl 8 sulfate and sodium oleyl sulfate. Also suitable are amphoteric surfactants, such as alkylglycinates, alkylaminopropionates, amine oxides or polyamphoteric protein surfactants such as hydrolyzed collagen, for example lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed Collagenic, hydrolyzed wheat protein, e.g. sodium cocoyl hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein or lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, protein coconut fatty acid condensate as the potassium salt (preferably between 0.1 and 5%) and finally teas such as amphoacetates, e.g. sodium lauramphoacetate or sodium cocoamphoacetate , Alkylimidazolium-Betaϊne, Amidoalkyl-Betaϊne, such as Cocamidopropylbetaϊn, Capryl / Capramidopropyl-Betaϊn, Ricinolamidopropyl-Betaϊn and Fettaminooxid.

They are at concentrations between 1% and 30%, but preferably between 1% and 20%. The cleaning composition (1) is prepared by successively stirring anionic, amphoteric surfactants and alcohols into the aqueous gel.

II. Conditioning

The second treatment step serves to prevent, protect and prepare the skin for the next step, since both water alone and surfactants can dissolve the hydro-lipid coat and the lipids of the skin. The emulsifiers typically present in micro-emulsions can also lead to loosening of the lipid layer of the stratum corneum, with the result of skin drying out or even irritation. In order to minimize these possible negative effects, the special composition (2) is formulated in such a way that in particular protective properties are achieved and a subsequent desired penetration is nevertheless possible. This is achieved by water-based compositions containing, in addition to water, preferably 0.1 to 30%> of one or more active ingredients, selected from moisturizers, metabolically active substances (in particular amino acids, peptides, protein hydrolysates), betaines, aromatic acids, keratinoplastic substances ( especially alpha-hydroxy acids), astringents and anti-inflammatory substances. Buffer solutions, diffusion promoters and gel formers are particularly suitable as additives. The composition (2) is prepared by the active ingredients and additives in the aqueous, possibly gel-like basis, for. b, Chitosan gel dissolves and, if necessary, adjusts the pH to the desired value. III. Microemulsion

In the third treatment step, a micro-emulsion is applied as described. In addition to the water phase and the oil phase, this W / O micro-emulsion in particular has one or more emulsifiers, one or more co-emulsifiers, and active ingredients and additives. The active compounds are very particularly preferably selected from one or more oxygen carriers, one or more antioxidants, one or more vitamins and provitamins, one or more essential oils, one or more metabolically active dermatics or pharmaceuticals. Additives are selected in particular from diffusion enhancers, one or more inorganic salts, one or more chelating agents. Possibly. hormones and their derivatives can also be contained here as active ingredients. The oil components for the composition (3) are liquid oils, in particular: esters from alkane carboxylic acids and from alcohols, pharmaceutically acceptable oils, saturated or unsaturated long-chain fatty acids of animal and vegetable origin, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated alkane carboxylic acids, dialkyl ethers and alcohols, non-volatile hydrocarbons, Paraffin oil, squalene, jojoba oil, squalane, ethoxylated triglycerides or fatty alcohols with 6 - 18 carbon atoms in a straight chain, advantageously selected from: isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl stearate , Isononyl stearate, isononyl isonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, ethyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl curate, erucyl oleate. Saturated or unsaturated long-chain fatty acids of animal and vegetable origin can also be selected, in particular oleic, palmitic or oleic acid, essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic and γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid and their derivatives, and also borage oil, evening primrose oil being particularly advantageous , Rosehip oil, pink ruby rose, centella and inophyllum. Furthermore, the liquid oil phase can be selected from the group of the dialkyl ethers, the group of alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, particularly the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated ones Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the following groups: synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

PEG-7 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride or PEG-8 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride are advantageously chosen as ethoxylated triglycerides.

Any mixtures of such oils and ester oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. The following can advantageously be selected from the group of fatty alcohols having 6-20 carbon atoms in straight chains: lauryl, palmityl, myristyl, arachidyl, linoleyl and linolyl alcohols.

The emulsifiers for the composition (3) are preferably selected from nonionic emulsifiers of the O / W type (HLB value 8 to 18, preferably 9 to

15), and nonionic of the W / O type (HLB value 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 5), in a ratio of 4 to 1 to 2 to 1, preferably 3: 1 to 1.2: 1 and in particular 2: 1 to 1.3: 1st

These include ethoxylated fatty alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in straight chains, especially polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2),

Steareth-20, Oleth-3 and Oleth-10.

Furthermore, the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of

Sorbitan derivatives, especially sorbitan monolaurate and sorbitan trioleate.

Furthermore, the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of ethoxylated sorbitan derivatives, in particular polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate.

Furthermore, the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of

Glyceryl ethers of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, in particular of mono-, di-, tri-glycerol and polyglyceryl derivatives, including polyglyceryl diisostearates, polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl-6-distate, polyglyceryl-4-oleyl ether.

Furthermore, the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of ethoxylated glyceryl esters. Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl tristearate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated triglycerides. Furthermore, the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of ethoxylated alkyl ethers. The emulsifiers are advantageously selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol dodecyl ether (Brij30) and polyethylene glycol hexadecyl ether (Brij52).

Furthermore, the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of fatty alcohol (C16-C18) glucosides, in particular sucrose stearate, sucrose palmitate, Plantacare 1200 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP (Cognis). The amount of nonionic emulsifiers (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 5 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 35% by weight, in particular 10 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The co-emulsifiers of composition (3) are advantageously selected from the groups of phospholipids and ceramides (such as ceramide-6 and ceramide-3 or prostaglandins).

These include lecithin from plants (soybeans, rapeseed, cottonseed) and egg yolk;

Phosphatidylcholine from soy and egg yolk, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol from soybean, rapeseed, cottonseed and hydroxylated lecithin. The co-emulsifiers are advantageously selected from the group: lecithin from soy and egg yolk, e.g. under the trade names

Epikuron 135, Epikuron 170, Epikuron 200, Epikuron 200 SH (Lukas Meyer),

Phospholipon 25, NAT-8539 (Nattermann). The amount of co-emulsifiers, especially phospholipids (one or more

Compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Furthermore, in the composition (3) preferably, for. B. 0.1 to 15 wt.%, One or more alcohols may be included. These are selected from short-chain and long-chain alcohols (ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, octanol) and glycols (propylene glycol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol). Especially ethanol, propanol, 1,2-octanediol, propylene glycol, alone or in a mixture, are preferred. The amount of alcohol (s) is particularly preferably 1 to 20% by weight.

The W / O micro-emulsions are produced by adding an oil phase containing emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers, active substances and additives with water or aqueous phase, containing water-soluble additives, at room temperature, optionally up to 40 ° C., depending on Ingredients, preferably mixed at RT and stirred until a clear, transparent and homogeneous micro-emulsion is formed. They can be converted into another W / O or O / W micro-emulsion by adding water or an aqueous phase. An aqueous phase containing hemoglobin can also be used.

IV. Building cream (4)

In the treatment step (4), a build-up cream (W / O or O / W type) is preferably used. It contains a fat phase and a water phase, emulsifiers of the desired type and in particular additives and active substances, which are used primarily for collagen synthesis, as well as UV filters, vitamins and optionally other active substances and additives.

For the fat phase, the oils and / or waxes described above for composition (3), such as volatile hydrocarbons, e.g. B. beeswax,

Paraffin oil, jojoba oil, squalene, squalane and shea butter and / or phospholipids, such as lecithin from plants (soya, rapeseed, cottonseed) and egg yolk,

Phosphatidylcholine from soy and egg yolk, phosphatidylethanolamine,

Phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol from soybean, rapeseed, cottonseed, hydroxylated lecithin, and / or sterols such as cholesterol and cholesterol

Derivatives such as ethoxylated cholesterol or polyethylene glycol (IO) -

Soyasterol can be used.

Suitable emulsifiers are those previously described for composition (3).

Co-emulsifiers can optionally be selected from long-chain (C12-C20) alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, tetradecanol, myristyl alcohol and from C12-C18-

Fatty acids such as stearic acid or palmitic acid. In particular, active substances are metabolically active substances (such as proteins, amino acids, protein hydrolyzates), one or more emmolients, one or more antioxidants, one or more humectants (NMF), one or more vitamins, one or more UV filters, one or several astringents, one or more amino saccharides (glucosamine, oligosaccharides), one or more biological acids (e.g. α-lipoic acid), one or more, one or more herbal extracts, one or more hormones / hormone derivatives used.

Possible additives are in particular: one or more buffer substances, one or more chelating substances, one or more alcohols, one or more polyols, one or more gelling agents and preservatives. Such products are manufactured in a manner known to those skilled in the art.

Depending on the application, bleaching agents can also be used as active ingredients for compositions (3) and (4).

Detailed description of the active ingredients

The active ingredients contained or optionally contained in the compositions (1) to (4) are selected from the following groups. They are in amounts from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20%, in particular from 0.1 to 10% or also 0.1 to 5%, based on the total weight, and depending on the substance in the Individual or total quantities known to those skilled in the art are present. They can be water-soluble or lipophilic and can therefore be incorporated in the existing phases.

emollients:

These include silicone oils (dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone), poly-isobutylene, caprylic / capric triglyceride; Fatty acid ethers (Decyl Cocoate, Decyl Oleate, Myristyl Myristate), polyglycerides and derivatives, (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, Sucrose Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4-Caprate). antioxidants:

Tocopheryl acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,

Superoxide dismutase, cysteine and glutathione;

Metabolically active substances:

Milk products, such as Lactofil Moist, Lactofil Sensitive ("Gattefosse"); amino acids and peptides, such as glycine, betaϊn, thyrosine, arginine, ornithine; protein hydrolysates, such as collagen hydrolysates; elastin hydrolysates, partial hydrolysates made of keratin; silk protein Hydrolysates, yeast hydrolysates, wheat protein hydrolysates; proteins such as collagen, fibrin, elastin, saccharides such as glucose, fructose, mannose, mannitol, inositol, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, D-glucosamine, oligosaccharides, chito-oligosaccharides, trehalose The saccharides and oligosaccharides are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of glucose, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, chito-oligosaccharides and trehalose. Silk protein hydrolyzate, amino acids, yeast hydrolyzate and collagen hydrolyzate; collagen are particularly advantageous , Glucosamine and chito-oligosaccharides.

Vitamins: Ubiquinone and its derivatives, tocopherol and its derivatives, e.g. Vitamin E acetate, vitamin A and its derivatives, e.g. Vitamin A palmitate, vitamin B complex, niacin, vitamin H and derivatives, pantothenic acid and panthenol, vitamin C and derivatives such as ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin D and derivatives and vitamin K and derivatives. Tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, ubiquinone Q10 and vitamin C are particularly advantageous.

Humidifier (NMF)

Glycerin, ectone, sorbitol, PCA-Na, urea, Allantoϊn, glucosamine, chito- oligosaccharides, carboxylic acids, hydroxycarboxylic acids and dicarboxylic acids, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acids or aloe vera extract or mixtures thereof. The NMF are advantageously selected from the group: glycerol, urea sorbitol, Allantoϊn, PCA-Na, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera extract.

Oxygen carrier: organic and inorganic peroxides, e.g. Hemoglobin and derivatives, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide.

The following are particularly preferred: natural and artificial oxygen carriers such as hemoglobin and modifications. These include cross-linked, polymerized, pegylated artificial oxygen carriers based on hemoglobiin and those obtained by combining one or all of these modifications. Crosslinked (intramolecular), polymerized and pegylated oxygen carriers are preferred, in particular as described in DE 197 01 03 A1, US Pat. No. 4,179,337; Describe US A 5,312,808, WO97 / 15313, EP 97100790 and in particular DE 100 31 744 A1, DE 100 31 742 A1, DE 100 31 740 A1. The methods are known and are incorporated herein. The hemoglobins can be derived from humans, cattle, sheep, horses, pigs, and those from pigs are particularly suitable. Native hemoglobin from porcine erythrocytes is particularly preferred.

Bleaching agents: chemical and natural bleaching agents, e.g. Hydroquinones, kojacic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid, lemon and cucumber juice, in particular hydroquinones, kojacic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid.

Herbal extracts: Meristem extract, aloe vera, echinacea, witch hazel extract, asparagus extract, Niembaum, polyplant micro-emulsion, horse chestnut, red vine leaves, arnica, calendula, ivy, chamomile, nettle, horsetail; especially meristem extract, aloe vera, echinacea, ivy, nettle, chamomile, horsetail. Essential oils such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, esters, monoterpene alcohols, sesquiterpene alcohols, phenylpropanes, phenols, lactones, ketones, aldehydes, in particular clove oil, thyme oil, mint oil, citrus oil, pine, lavender oil, ylang Ylang, chamomile, ravensara, hyssop, niaouli, anise, patchouli, incense, yarrow, thuja, birch oil, lemon balm and eucalyptus.

Hormones and derivatives: hydrocortisone and its derivatives, melatonin, glycyrrhetic acid and its derivatives and other herbal hormones. Melatonin and glycyrrhetinic acid are particularly preferred.

Anti-inflammatory (anti-irritant) substances: bisabolol, panthenol, glycyrrhetic acid and its derivatives, hydrocortisone-17-valerate and its derivatives, chamomile extract

Dermatics / pharmaceuticals:

Antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, active substances that promote blood circulation, keratolytics, hormones, steroids.

Keratin-dissolving (keratinoplastic) active ingredients:

Urea, salicylic acid, AHA acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, Dead Sea salt.

Aromatic acids: salicylic acid, benzoic acid

Betaϊne: trimethylglycine.

Further description of the additives chelating substances:

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its salts, deferoxamine, histidine, polyphosphoric acid, citric acid and derivatives, oxalic acid and derivatives, with ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid being particularly preferred. gelling agent:

Polysaccharides: chitosan, hyaluronic acid, heparin, dextran, cellulose esters, gel formers based on polyacrylic acid, such as Carbopol and Hispagel (Cognis) and or alginic acid. Chitosan, Carbopol and in particular Pemulen (Goodrich) are particularly advantageously selected.

The amount of the polysaccharides or polyacrylates (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Preservatives:

Alcohols, sorbic acid and derivatives, salicylates, benzoates, parabens, phenoxyethanol. The preservatives are particularly advantageously selected from the group: salicylic acid and phenoxyethanol.

electrolytes:

Salts with the following anions: chloride, sulfate, carbonate, phosphate. Electrolytes based on organic anions can also be used advantageously, for example lactates, acetates, benzoates, salicylates, propionates, tartrates, citrates and others. Potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Salt mixtures such as those found in natural Dead Sea salt are also advantageous.

Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as the cations of the salts.

Diffusion Amplifier:

Ethanol, terpenes, such as cineol and menthol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol with 4 to 250 ethylene glycol groups, diethylene glycol esters, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ester, diethylene glycol, oleic acid, salicylic acid and α-hydroxy acids; Diffusion enhancers are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of ethanol, AHA acids, salicylic acid, cineol, menthol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ester and oleic acid.

Buffer solutions:

Sodium lactate, lactic acid and ammonium citrate solution come into consideration as constituents of acidic buffer solutions, otherwise agents known to the skilled worker for this purpose.

pH regulators, UV filters, acids and bases or substances known to those skilled in the art (e.g. TiOa).

application

The 4 products (1) to (4) to be used according to the invention can be used as follows:

1 "Cleaning":

Apply composition (1), remove after about 2 minutes with lukewarm water;

2 "Conditioning" with composition (2), remove after about 5 minutes with lukewarm water

3 "Treatment with the micro-emulsion", which advantageously contains the oxygen carrier hemoglobin:

Micro-emulsion with hemoglobin is incorporated (massaged into the skin). The skin can then advantageously be gassed with oxygen (O ₂ ) (this treatment takes place in a cosmetic booth) or it is left in air for 2-3 hours, after which it is easily removed with water ;

Apply a thin layer of 4 "creams" build-up cream as required.

The treatment can be carried out once, twice or 3 times a week. It is carried out in the form of a cure between 4 and 8 weeks, especially between 5 and 7 weeks. The cures should be carried out about twice a year. This procedure can be used to treat cosmetically aged or pitted skin, cellulite, as well as acne and couperose. Inflammable and degenerated skin can be treated equally, for example in diabetes mellitus, neurodermatitis or psoriasis, as well as seborrheic and sebostatic (dry) skin. Scaled skin (eg due to fungal infections), virus infections (eg herpes) and bacterially infected skin (eg acne), exogenously produced allergies and other irritations are also suitable for treatment. Particularly preferred are the treatment of aged, pitted, inflamed, dry, degenerated and, above all, cellulite skin. Depending on the application, a cosmetic or dermatological / therapeutic treatment can also be present.

Examples

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail:

Example of use 1 (cleaning)

The composition (1) of the facial toner and gel cleanser

Phenoxyethanol 0.2 0.2 0.2

Aqua ad 100% ad 100% ad 100%

Application example 2 (conditioner)

The composition (2) of "conditioning"

Application example 3 (micro-emulsion "silver"): the composition (3) of the micro-emulsion ("silver")

Application example 4 (micro-emulsion "gold")

The composition of the micro-emulsion (3) ("Gold") with

Hemoglobin is combined

Example of use 5 (building cream)

The composition (4) of the "building cream"

The individual compositions (1) to (4) or (5) are advantageously packaged separately in a manner known to the person skilled in the art and then packed together in a combination set, each with suitable quantities / sizes.

16 Example of use 6

A study was carried out on 11 test subjects aged between 45 and 63 years. The treatment was carried out twice a week for 6 weeks.

The surface of the skin was examined before and after (1 week after the last

Treatment) optically measured with the SELS method. Measuring points were

Forehead, corners of the mouth and corners of the eyes.

After the treatment, the smoothness on the forehead was around 54% and around the corner of the mouth

132% and at the corner of the eye improved by 166%.

The treatment was carried out as described in Example 8.

Application example 7

The backs of the hands of a 69-year-old man were treated twice on two consecutive days. First the back of the left hand. Fig. 1 shows in the upper part of the picture the back of both hands 6 days after the treatment in comparison: The left back of the hand is much smoother than the right.

15 days after treatment of the left hand, the back of the right hand was also treated. Fig. 2 shows in the lower part of the picture both backs of the hands after a further 6 days (in total after 21 days). First, you can see that the back of the left hand has remained smooth and, second, you can see that the right back of the hand is as smooth as the left. The treatment was carried out as described in Example 8.

Application example 8

Treatment procedure for the face with hemoglobin micro-emulsion (example 4, "gold") and with oxygen fumigation:

1. Cleaning: Removal of make-up: apply about 4 ml of the preparation "cleaning" according to example 1, recipe 1; after about 1 minute, take off with lukewarm water;

2. Conditioning: apply about 3 ml of the conditioner according to example 2, recipe 2, wait about 5 minutes, then remove with lukewarm water;

3. Therapy / effect: 1 ml of the special micro-emulsion (“gold” according to Example 4, Recipe 2 and Example 12) with 0.5 ml of the hemoglobin solution (Example 12) mix in hand; massage the gel that forms into the skin of the face; then oxygen treatment: gently apply a stream of oxygen from a nozzle in a circular motion for about 20 minutes, leave for about 2 hours, if necessary remove the remnants of the emulsion with a damp, soft cloth;

4. Apply the restorative cream according to Example 5, recipe 1 thinly: repeat as required.

Example of use 9 Treatment sequence for the face with hemoglobin without oxygen fumigation as described in Example 8 with the exception that the oxygen fumigation is omitted.

Example of use 10 Treatment sequence for the face without hemoglobin and with gassing with oxygen: The treatment sequence is as in Example 8, except that the micro-emulsion (“silver”, according to Example 3, recipe 1) is used.

Example of use 11 Treatment procedure for the face without hemoglobin and without gassing with oxygen: the treatment procedure is as in example 9, but another special micro-emulsion (“silver”, example 3, formulation 1) is used.

Application example 12 (hemoglobin solution) The hemoglobin solution is an 8% dilution of pork hemoglobin in physical saline (0.9%) which is carbonylated. It also contains 0.1% to 0.3% phenoxyethanol and 0.01% to 0.15% N-acetyl-cysteine. When used, this hemoglobin solution is mixed in a ratio of 1: 2 with the micro-emulsion "gold" (1 part hemoglobin solution and 2 parts micro-emulsion). Example of use 13

5 subjects aged 26 to 44 years with cellulite were treated 3 times a week

(Mon, Wed, Fri) for 4 weeks as described in Example 11 on

Treated thigh. The elasticity of the skin was measured with a

Cutometer before and after treatment. Here, the average

Elasticity value increased by more than 40%. There were no undesirable side reactions.

Claims

claims

1. Combination set for topical application, each in separate

packages:

I) a composition (1) for gentle cleaning of the skin;

II) a composition (2) for the preventive treatment of the skin (conditioning);

III) a composition (3) in the form of a micro-emulsion for influencing the skin texture;

IV) a composition (4) in the form of a cream for protective post-treatment of the skin.

2. Combination set according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition (1) 0.1 to 40 wt.% Surfactants, 1 to 20 wt.% Of one or more mono- or polyhydric alcohols, 0 to 30% wt.% Active ingredients and 0 to 20% additives and the rest water.

3. Combination set according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition (2) 1 to 15% by weight of one or more mono- or polyhydric alcohols, 0.1 to 30% by weight of one or more active ingredients, 0, 1 to 20% by weight of additives and the rest water.

4. Combination set according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition (3) is a primary W / O micro-emulsion with binary phase and active substance differentiability, which is free of crosslinkers and 45 to 90 % By weight of a liquid oil phase, 5 to 40% by weight of a mixture of one or more W / O and one or more O / W emulsifiers in a ratio of 1: 4 to 1: 1, 2; 0.01 to 20% by weight of one or more co-emulsifiers; 0 to 15% by weight of one or more mono- or divalent C-ι. ₈ alcohols; 1 to 10% by weight of water, 0 to 30% by weight of active ingredients, and 0 to 20% by weight of additives, the emulsion is optionally converted into a secondary W / O micro-emulsion or can be converted into an O / W micro-emulsion by reaction with a water phase, or wherein (3) a secondary W obtained from this primary micro-emulsion by reaction with water / O or O W micro emulsion.

5. Combination set according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the composition (4) a 0.5 to 70% fat phase, 5 to 40% of one or more emulsifiers, 0.01 to 20% and co- Emulsifiers, 0 to 20% additives, 0.1 to 30% active ingredients and the rest

Has water.

6. Combination set according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the compositions (2) 0.1 to 20 wt.% Of active ingredients, selected from keratinoplastic, antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, metabolically active substances, humectants, vitamins, mixtures; Composition (3) 0.001 to 20% by weight of active ingredients, selected from astringents, keratinoplastic, antioxidative, oxygen carriers, anti-inflammatory, metabolically active substances, humectants, vitamins, mixtures; and composition (4) 0.1 to 20% by weight

Active substances selected from astringents, emollients, antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, metabolically active substances,

Moisturizers.Vitamins, mixtures.

7. Combination set according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the micro-emulsion (3) and the build-up cream (4) 0.001 to 30% by weight or 0.1 to 30% by weight of one or more contain water-soluble or fat-soluble active ingredients or mixtures of water- and fat-soluble active ingredients and / or additionally 0.1 to 20% by weight of additives are present.

8. Combination set according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the compositions (1) to (4) additives, selected from diffusion enhancers, gel formers, buffers, chelating agents, preservatives, diffusion enhancers and electrolytes, or mixtures thereof.

9. Combination set according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the micro-emulsion (3) 50 to 80 wt.% Of an oil phase; 5 to 40% by weight of a mixture of one or more W / O and one or more O / W emulsifiers; 0.1 to 10% by weight of one or more

Lecithins, phosphatidylcholines or derivatives or mixtures thereof as co-emulsifiers; 1, 0 to 10 wt .-% of one or more mono- or dihydric d-β-alcohols and 1 to 10 wt .-% water or aqueous solutions.

10. Combination set according to claim 9, characterized in that the micro-emulsion (3) is a secondary O / W or W / O micro-emulsion obtained from the primary micro-emulsion described in claim 9 by reaction with water.

11. Combination set according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the micro-emulsion (3) contains biological oxygen carriers selected from native, modified or unmodified hemoglobin or mixtures thereof in a total amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight.

12. Combination set according to claim 11, characterized in that the micro-emulsion (3) further antioxidants, in particular selected from flavonoids, gluthathione, superoxide dismutase, melatonin, glucose; Amino acids, protein hydrolyzates, mono- and oligosaccharides,

Contain polysaccharides, metabolically active substances or mixtures thereof.

13. Combination set according to claim 12, characterized in that in addition to the compositions (1) and (2), a micro-emulsion (3) according to claim 10 or 11 and a composition (4) containing antioxidants, in particular selected from flavonoids, Gluthathione, superoxide dismutase, melatonin, glucose; Amino acids, protein hydrolyzates, mono- and

Oligosaccharide, polysaccharide and metabolically active substances or mixtures thereof is contained.

14. A method for the bioregenerative treatment of the skin of humans, characterized in that the compositions (1) to (4) according to one of claims 1 to 13 are used one after the other, starting with (1).

15. The method according to claim 14, characterized in that compositions as described in claims 2, 3 and 6 to 13 are used topically in succession.

16. The method according to any one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that additionally after the application of the composition (3) external gassing with oxygen is carried out on the parts of the skin to be treated.

17. The method according to any one of claims 14 to 16 for in particular cosmetic treatment of aged, pitted, inflamed, dry, degenerated or of cellulite skin.

18. Use of a combination set according to one of claims 1 to 13 for the bioregenerative cosmetic treatment of human skin.

19. Use of compositions I) to IV) according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for the preparation of an agent for dermatological treatment of the skin.

20. Use according to claim 18 or 19, characterized in that actinic, scaly, infected (acne), allergic, dry, inflamed, degenerated, aged, pitted and irritative skin is treated.

21. Use according to claim 20, characterized in that neurodermatitis, psoriasis, cellulite or couperose are treated.