Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

• Emollients and cosmetic compositions are provided.
• the invention relates to novel ester-based oil bodies which can be easily incorporated into cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations, have good dermatological compatibility and impart particularly light skin sensations to cosmetic formulations.
• Preparations that are used to clean and care for human skin and hair usually contain a number of surface-active substances, especially oil and water.
• surface-active substances especially oil and water.
• hydrocarbons, ester oils and vegetable and animal oils / fats / waxes are used as oil bodies / emollients.
• new oil bodies and emulsifier mixtures are continuously developed and tested.
• the object of the present invention was to provide new emollients for cosmetic applications which, like ester oils, have a certain polarity with predominantly lipophilic properties and can be incorporated into a large number of cosmetic formulations.
• diesters of 2-ethyl-1, 3-propanediol are well tolerated by dermatology, lead to light sensor products and can also be easily incorporated into cold processes. Description of the invention
• the invention relates to the use of 2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol diesters of the formula (I)
• R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched aikyl group or an aromatic radical, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
• R and R 2 are preferably independently of one another a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C6-C3o-Alky Ig group or an aromatic radical. It is particularly preferred to use diesters in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent a linear, saturated C 1 -C 24 -alkyl group.
• suitable aromatic residues are benzoic acid residues.
• R 1 and R 2 are preferably identical, so that they are symmetrical diesters.
• Diesters of 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are known from JP-A 59055853 as lubricants and solvents for paints.
• the compound class has a combination of polar and lipophilic properties, which makes it particularly suitable as an emollient for cosmetic applications.
• the compounds can be prepared by conventional esterification processes of the prior art, ie for example without a catalyst or with acid catalysis. In this case, however, the yields are unsatisfactory and undesirable by-products often arise which are difficult to separate off.
• An esterification process in which tin catalysts are used is more suitable.
• the application therefore also relates to a process for the preparation of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol diesters of the formula (I) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C 1 -C 24 -alkyl group or an aromatic residue, whereby: (a) 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol in the presence of a tin catalyst with a carboxylic acid R 1 -COOH and / or R 2 -COOH in excess esterified until the formation of water has ended
• Suitable tin catalysts are, for example, tin oxalate (e.g. Fascat ® 2001), tin oxide (SnO, Fascat ® 2000) and tin IV catalysts such as dibutyltin diacetate Fascat ® 4200), dibutlytin oxide (Fascat ® 4201), and dibutyltin laurate (Fascat ® 4202).
• Tin oxide (SnO) is preferably suitable according to the invention.
• the emollients according to the invention allow the production of stable cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions.
• the present invention therefore furthermore relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which contain at least one 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol diester, preferably a 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol-Ci2-C24-diester R 1 and R 2 are identical.
• the 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol diester is preferably present in the preparations in an amount of 0.1-60% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 40% by weight. Amounts of 1-30% by weight and in particular 1-20% by weight are particularly preferred.
• Preferably -acting-it-check-in this case-to-formulations to -Körperticianr -B-Z creams r milks, lotions, sprayable emulsions, products for eliminating body odor, etc.
• the compounds of the invention can also be used in surfactant formulations, such , B. use foam and shower baths, hair shampoos and conditioners.
• the cosmetic formulations contain a number of other auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, surfactants, other oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients , UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, etc., which are listed below as examples.
• surfactants such as, for example, surfactants, other oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active
• Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be contained as surface-active substances.
• Cosmetic preparations containing surfactants such as shower gels, foam baths, shampoos, etc., preferably contain at least one anionic surfactant.
• the proportion of surfactants here is usually about 0.1 to 30, preferably 5 to 25 and in particular 10 to 20% by weight.
• anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfate monomers (hydroxymate ether sulfate) and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids, such
• anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
• Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or - gluconic acid amide hydrolysis products (in particular) -gluconic acid amide hydrolysis products, in particular, glucoramido acid hydrolysate derivatives, and glucoronic acid protein derivatives Wheat base), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
• nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
• cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
• Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkyl amido betaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
• Oil bodies are usually present in a total amount of 0.1-50% by weight, preferably 5-25% by weight and in particular 5-15% by weight.
• Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C ⁇ -C ⁇ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-Ci3-carboxylic acids come as oil bodies, for example linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, e.g. B.
• esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols are suitable Fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ⁇ -Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ⁇ -Ci ⁇ fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with
• B dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ⁇ -C ⁇ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per aikyl group, such as.
• Cetiol® CC dicaprylyl carbonates
• Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ⁇ -C ⁇ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per aikyl group, such as.
• Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or
• dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as. B. as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexane.
• Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
• Polyethylene glycol molecular weight 400 to 5000
• trimethylolpropane pentaerythritol
• sugar alcohols e.g. sorbitol
• alkyl glucosides e.g.
• methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and polyglucosides (e.g. Cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide
• Block copolymers e.g. B. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate
• the adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products.
• Bs are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out.
• Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
• sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate come, Sorbitantnisostearat, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantri- hydroxystearate, Sorbitanmonotartrat , Sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,
• polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3 diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate ® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Gera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl -3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polvricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isost
• polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
• Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
• Surfactants are those surface-active compounds that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
• Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl -3-carboxylmethyi-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate.
• fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred.
• suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants
• Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C8 / 18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least contain a free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOsH group and are capable of forming internal salts.
• ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and Alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the aikyl group.
• Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine.
• Cationic surfactants are suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
• Fat and ⁇ / axis are added to the body care products as" care substances_ and ⁇ also, "to increase the consistency of the cosmetics.
• Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids.
• Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie technical mono- and / or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as glycerol mono / dilaurate, palmitate or stearate, are also suitable for this.
• Natural waxes such as z. B.
• lecithins In addition to fats, fat-like additives also come as additives Substances such as lecithins and phospholipids in question.
• lecithins are those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification.
• Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC).
• PC phosphatidylcholines
• cephalins which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
• phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
• glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
• sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
• Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms
• Other possible consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids.
• a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
• Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tylos, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
• Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
• polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tylos, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and
• Bentonites such as, for example, have also proven particularly effective.
• Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.
• Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin, and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
• Metal salts of fatty acids such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.
• Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. B. a -qu-aternated ⁇ ydr ⁇ x-yethylellulose r- which is available under the reference polymer JR 00® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for. B.
• cationic cellulose derivatives such as. B. a -qu-aternated ⁇ ydr ⁇ x-yethylellulose r- which is available under the reference polymer JR 00® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for. B.
• Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as. B.
• amodimethicones copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives, such as quaternized chitin derivatives, such as quaternized chroated derivatives, and quaternized chitinated products, such as quaternized chroated derivatives, such as, from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B.
• Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate Copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolact
• Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
• Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
• UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again.
• UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:
• esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-iso-propylbenzyl salicylate, homomethyl salicylate
• benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester
• Triazine derivatives such as. B. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 i -hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® Hbb
• benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
• benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
• typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane Parsol® 1789
• 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF).
• the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
• Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. B.
• insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose.
• suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
• Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
• the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
• the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
• the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck).
• Silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro or nanopigments are preferably used in the sun protection center. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.
• secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
• Typical examples of this are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles, for example - uroganic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
• thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl -, oleyl ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
• buthioninsulfoximines Homocysteine sulfoximine, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses e.g. B. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
• further (metal) chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
• ⁇ -neolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
• folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
• vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Ascorbyl acetate
• tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
• vitamin E acetate
• vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
• Stilbenes and their derivatives e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
• derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
• biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ß-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudocleamides, extracts of essential oils, essential extracts such as B. Prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes to understand.
• deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
• Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active substances which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers,
• germ-inhibiting agents such as.
• Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT).
• the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
• esterase inhibitors include sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, giutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid ester, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate,
• dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, giutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid ester, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl
• Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component.
• Fixators such as, for example, the main component.
• Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Farther Animal raw materials in question, 'for example civet and beaver. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B.
• benzyl acetate p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
• the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, and the ketones, for example the jonones and methylcedryl ketone the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
• fragrance oils which are mostly used as aroma components
• perfume oils e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
• Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
• Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
• non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
• Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
• suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dihydrochloride, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z.
• B. with amino acids such as glycine.
• conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
• Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be:
• Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, for. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. B. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
• Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
• Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (IH) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-1 - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2,4- dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1 H -imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfuric rinoleic acid, polyethylenate, (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum
• Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
• insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) -propionic acid-ethyl ester), which is known as Insect Repellant lent ® 3535 is sold by Merck KGaA, as well as butylacetylaminopropionate.
• Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
• Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
• Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
• Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
• the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are:
• Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons
• Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol
• Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
• Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, - entandioU or sorbic acid ⁇ as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
• Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
• Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B.
• the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B.
• the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones z.
• the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance.
• perfume oils e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
• Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.
• the dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Kochillerot A (Cl 16255), Patent Blue V (C.1.42051), Indigotine (C.1.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), Quinoline Yellow (CI47005), Titanium Dioxide (C.1.77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (Cl 69800) and Madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
• the mixture (I + II + III) is allowed to react at 220 ° C for several hours in a 1 L flask with water separator and N ⁇ gassing until no more water is produced. After the reaction mixture has cooled, Tonsil is added, and the catalyst and the Tonsil are then removed by filtration through a D2 glass filter chute.
• the crude product from 1.2% monoester, 87.6% diester and 9.6% lauric acid is distilled at 230 ° C. bottom and 212 ° C. vapor temperature at 0.03 mPa over a 250 mm Vigreux column in order to Increase the share of the diester to 98.0%.

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  • 2001-12-11 DE DE10160682A patent/DE10160682A1/de not_active Withdrawn
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