WO2002078652A1 - Colorants et aromes d'origine vegetale, ecologiques et sans danger, presentant un effet protecteur pour la sante, et utiles dans des applications cosmeceutiques - Google Patents

Colorants et aromes d'origine vegetale, ecologiques et sans danger, presentant un effet protecteur pour la sante, et utiles dans des applications cosmeceutiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2002078652A1
WO2002078652A1 PCT/IN2001/000079 IN0100079W WO02078652A1 WO 2002078652 A1 WO2002078652 A1 WO 2002078652A1 IN 0100079 W IN0100079 W IN 0100079W WO 02078652 A1 WO02078652 A1 WO 02078652A1
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Prior art keywords
oil
composition
herbal
colourant
red
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PCT/IN2001/000079
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English (en)
Inventor
Palpu Pushpangadan
Shanta Mehrotra
Ajay Kumar Singh Rawat
Sayyada Khatoon
Raghavan Govindarajan
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Council Of Scientific And Industrial Research
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Priority to PCT/IN2001/000079 priority Critical patent/WO2002078652A1/fr
Priority to FR0113648A priority patent/FR2822677B1/fr
Publication of WO2002078652A1 publication Critical patent/WO2002078652A1/fr

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    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09B—ORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
    • C09B61/00—Dyes of natural origin prepared from natural sources, e.g. vegetable sources

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a safe, eco-friendly, health protective and cosmetic composition useful as lipstick and for other cosmaceutical applications like eye-shadows, skin creams, glow-glitters and rouges.
  • One aspect of the invention pertains to the development of a herbal composition useful as Lipstick with mood altering functional attributes including stimulation of creative thoughts on persons who apply the same on lips. Such features of the composition are attributed to the selected blended formulations of Natural colours and essential oils/aroma isolates incorporated.
  • the different blends of essential oil/aroma isolates/natural aroma chemical selectively blended in the lipsticks provide anti-depressant, mood enhancing/mood lifting effect and give rise to creative thoughts.
  • compositions with different colour shades blended with aromatic principles have been developed for women
  • another range of compositions useful as lipsticks has also been developed for men.
  • These compositions are without colours but provide a moisturizing transparent effect and have mood altering functions and are designed to altered mental perception, functioning similar to the lipstick compositions developed for developed for women.
  • Both the groups of lipstick have some additional health promotive/protective and beautifying attributes by preventing the lips from darkening and providing it with moisturizing effects. These compositions also give attractive luster and texture to the lips.
  • the lipsticks with colour, developed for women have antibacterial, antifungal and anti- inflammatory effects.
  • lip beautification topical application lipstick with different shades of colours are well known.
  • spraying of aromatic oils or sprays for refreshing is also well known.
  • Many studies have been carried out on the effect of fragrance on mental perception; for example, the nice fragrance has an aesthetic impression and multiple positive effects on our life, they are not only for pleasure and seduction, healing and magic products but also for positive mood creators.
  • V.P. Papageorgiou has reported certain lipophilic red pigments obtained from various plants including the genus Lithospermum, Echium Onosma Anchusa and Cynoglossum, in his publication titled: Naturally occurring Isohexenylnaphthazarin Pigments: A New Class of Drugs" in Planta Medica, 1980, Vol.38, No.3.
  • US Patent 4996044 describes a lipstick formulation consisting of organic high staining dyes, said formulation having creamy, shiny and soft laydown and long wear properties. The formulation does not use any extracts from any plant. Reference is made to a US patent (No. 5593662) wherein moisturizing lipstick has been described. In this invention, use has been made with a composition of 30-80% lipophilic material, which may have lesser shelf life and may promote microbial growth due to the presence of moisture. They used about 0-35% synthetic colourant which seems to be too high for a cosmetic composition. The synthetic colours mostly exhibit harmful side effects like loss of luster, blackening of skin and may have some carcinogenic effects too as shown in a website (httpV/www.orst.edu/foodresource/color/colorants/.html).
  • US Patent 5665778 describes yet another cosmetic formulation consisting of ceramides and other compounds.
  • the composition of this patent is a totally synthetic composition.
  • US Patent 5676957 describes a skin external agent, said agent being an extract of the plant of genes Euonymus such as Euonymus alata.
  • This extract according to this invention may be formulated with a cosmetically acceptable base.
  • the main objective of the present invention is to provide safe, eco-friendly, health protective and cosmetic composition containing natural colours and aroma/essential oils useful for various cosmaceutical applications.
  • Another objective of the present invention is to use the herbal colours in lipsticks.
  • Another objective of the present invention is to provide transparent cosmetic compositions useful as lipsticks and containing essential oils/aroma isolates.
  • Still another objective of the present invention is to use the herbal colours in other cosmetic compositions like eye shadows, skin creams, glow glitters and rouges.
  • Another objective of the present invention is to provide the use of the functional lipstick as a means to camouflage leucodermic skin and particularly lips.
  • Yet another object of the invention is to provide a method for the production of cosmetic compositions containing herbal colourants and useful in other cosmetic applications.
  • the invention provides a safe, eco-friendly, health protective and beautifying herbal composition containing colourants and aroma, and useful for various cosmaceutical applications.
  • the invention also provides a process for the preparation of the herbal cosmetic composition comprising extraction of colourants from natural sources such as plants, and mixing the colourants with aroma and other base material for cosmaceutical applications.
  • This invention relates to an herbal cosmetic composition containing colouring agents for topical or external use. More particularly, the invention provides a novel cosmetic composition, useful especially as lipstick. When used as lipstick, the composition contains herbal colourants for which is then blended with selected blends of essential oils or aroma isolates and the composition is capable of altering the mood and mental perception of the person, who applies it.
  • the present invention provides a composition comprising additives providing special properties are selected from essential oils/aroma isolates obtained from the group of plant species belonging to genera Acquillaria, Cinnamomum, Cymbopogon Elettaria, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Jasminum, Ocimum, Pelargonium, Rosa, Rosmarinus, Santalum and Vetiveria.
  • the essential oils/aroma isolates act as mood lifting agents, antidepressant agents, anti stress agents, sensual pleasure providing agents, creative thought inducing agents, anxiety reducing agent, refreshing agent, stimulant, soothing agents, anti oxidants, fixative, fragrants, and antimicrobial.
  • the herbal colourants are obtained from various plants of the family Boraginaceae. It is the finding of the applicants that a wide spectrum of colors can be obtained from the said plants by using specific solvents in specific proportions. For instance, petroleum ether and chloroform may successfully be used in different proportions for extraction of the colored matter from the said plants in order to achieve a wide spectrum of colors such as pastel red, purplish red, cerise, ruby red, deep magenta, beet root purple, amarynth, dark purple, dark violet, deep violet, deep blue blackish blue, etc. It is pertinent to note that each of the plants listed above are capable of yielding the above spectrum of colors.
  • the herbal colorants obtained from various plants together with the essential oil and conventional additives yield a herbal composition which is suitable for cosmetic applications such as lipsticks.
  • This herbal composition is devoid of toxic effects.
  • the essential oils and aroma isolates may have the properties of mood enhancement, sensual pleasure, antidepressant and creative thought inducer. Also, the essential oils and aroma isolates may be used in transparent lipstick as a functional attribute.
  • coloring matter / coloring compounds can be mixed with essential oils and additives can be readily determined by a person skilled in the art. However, it is preferred that 0.0005% of coloring matter may be mixed with 10 "6 % essential oil, 1% lustering agent such as safflower oil. The base and other matters added may make up 100%.
  • Herbal lipophilic, safe colours are extracted from the plants belonging to the genus Arnebia, Bixa, Butea, Carthamus, Hibiscus, Jatropha, Lithospermum, Macrotomia, Maharanga, Nyctanthes, Onosma, Rhododendron, and Tagetes which are known to be non toxic and free from any strong side effects on human body particularly on topical application.
  • the colours extracted from these plants are bright and lustrous and have pronounced antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities. For example a good bright colourant - red-andora colour, plate No.
  • the present invention provides safe, eco-friendly, health protective herbal colours and aroma useful for cosmaceutical applications which comprises safe, eco- friendly, health protective and beautifying herbal colourants and aroma useful for cosmaceutical applications, comprising extraction of organic compounds from natural sources such as plants, the said extracted organic compounds being used as a colourant with aroma in base material for cosmaceutical applications.
  • the safe herbal colourants may be isolated from different plant species belonging to the genera of family Boraginaceae which are non-toxic and may be free from any side effects.
  • aroma isolates/essential oils may be selected from group of plants - Aquillaria, Cinnamomum, Cymbopogon, Elettaria,
  • the herbal colourants may be used in lipsticks, eye shadows, glow glitters and rouges.
  • the lipstick containing essential oils and combinations of aroma isolates may release neurochemicals in the brain through the receptors in mouth and nose and may have the properties of mood enhancement, sensual pleasure, antidepressant and creative thought inducer.
  • the anti-depressant property imparted by the essential oils are selected from
  • Ocimum oil Jasminum oil: Cymbopogon oil (1 : 2 : 1)
  • Ocimum oil Mentha oil: Rosmarinus oil (2 : 1 : 1)
  • Jasminum oil Mentha oil: Rosmarinus oil (1 : 1 : 1)
  • Cymbopogon oil Ocimum oil: Mentha oil (1 : 2 : 1)
  • Mentha oil Rosmarinus oil (1 : 1)
  • the creative thought-inducing property is imparted by the essential oils selected from
  • the anti-stress property is imparted by the essential oils selected from
  • Lavandula oil Eucalyptus oil: Rosa oil (1 : 1 : 1)
  • Aquillaria oil Elettaria oil: Rosmarinus oil (1 : 1 1)
  • the refreshing property is imparted by the essential oils selected from Essential oil Preferred ratio
  • the sensual feeling property is imparted by the essential oils selected from
  • Jasminum oil Lavandula oil: Pelorgonium oil (1 2 )
  • Ocimum oil Jasminum oil: Cymbopogon oil (1 2 : 1)
  • Jasminum oil Lavandula oil (2 : 1)
  • the mood lifting property is imparted by the essential oils selected from
  • Jasminum oil Rosa oil: Palergonium oil (1 : 2 )
  • Cymbopogan oil Rosa oil ( 2 : 1)
  • the anxiety reducing property is imparted by the essential oils selected from
  • Still another embodiment of the invention is that the essential oils and aroma isolates are used in transparent lipstick as a functional attribute.
  • Still another embodiment of the invention relates to the composition wherein, tocopherol is used as an antioxidant, which also functions as fixative, and may be present in traces to ppm.
  • An embodiment is that the process for extraction of organic compounds from natural sources such as plants which comprises drying of plant parts, powdering by known means, the said dried powder being used to extract herbal colourants, optionally treating the said colours with acids or bases taken in different proportions, to produce various shades.
  • the plant parts may be root, stem, leaf, and the quantum of essential oils used in preparing compositions varies based on the part from which the oil is extracted.
  • Still another embodiment of the present invention is that the plant parts may be dried at a temperature in the range of 30-45 C, in shade
  • dried plant parts may be powdered to particles of the size in the range of 30-60 mesh.
  • the herbal red colourants may be extracted from the plants of the genera Arnebia, Bixa, Butea, Carthamus, Hibiscus, Jatropha, Lithospermum, Macrotomia, Maharanga, Nyctanthes, Onosma, Rhododendron, and Tagetes.
  • the plants or their parts are put in a Soxhlet apparatus at a temperature of 20-80°C.
  • the solvents selected for the extraction may be non-polar - hexane, petroleum ether, toluene and cyclohexane, wherein the polar solvents are selected from chloroform, acetone, ethyl alcohol and methyl alcohol.
  • the non-polar and polar solvents may be recovered at reduced pressure of 50-100 psi and a temperature of 40-80°C.
  • the herbal colourants are obtained after the recovery of the solvents.
  • the concentrates result colours of various shades such as purplish red, cerise, ruby red, beetroot purple, dark violet, deep blue, and blackish blue colours which are herbal in nature as no trace of organic solvent remains in the final concentrate.
  • the present invention provides a process for preparation of herbal colourants, which comprises the steps of drying the plant material, powdering the same and percolating it with ethyl or methyl alcohol at a temperature of 20-48°C.
  • the alcohol soluble matter is concentrated at reduced pressure of 50-100 psi and a low temperature of 40-60°C.
  • the concentrate is eluted with silica gel column chromatography using non-polar solvents like - petroleum ether, hexane, cyclohexane, toluene and a mixture of non-polar and polar solvents.
  • the polar solvents used may be like chloroform, acetone, ethylacetate and methanol.
  • the ratio of the non-polar and polar solvents may be 20 : 1 to 4 : 1.
  • the concentration of the column fractions may be made at a range of reduced pressure of 80- 100 psi and a temperature of 30-60°C.
  • the colours of the concentrate may be pastel red, pale red, purplish red, rose red, cerise, ruby red, deep magenta, beetroot purple, amaranth, dark purple, dark violet, deep violet, deep blue and blackish blue
  • the herbal colourants may be antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and may be used in leucoderma, more particularly of lips.
  • the herbal colourants may be the mixture of naphthazarins and may be cyclic unsaturated diketones in which double bonds and keto group may be conjugated.
  • the herbal colourants may be changed in different shades with organic and inorganic acids.
  • the intensity of colours may be increased with organic acids and may be decreased with inorganic acids.
  • the range of the concentration of the acids may be 0.1-10%.
  • herbal colours may be changed with organic and inorganic bases.
  • the base concentration may be in the range of 0.1 to 20%.
  • herbal colour may be lipophilic and hydrophilic properties may be very minimum.
  • the herbal colours may be soluble in organic solvents like - hexane, petroleum ether, benzene, diethyl ether, ethylacetate, chloroform, acetone and alcohol in the range of 30- 100%.
  • the pH of the extracted herbal colours may be 5-6.
  • the present invention is aimed to prepare safe, eco-friendly, health protective herbal colours and aroma useful for cosmaceutical applications which comprises extraction of organic compounds from natural sources, the said extracted organic compounds being used as a colourant with aroma in base material for cosmaceutical applications.
  • the safe herbal colourants may be isolated from different plant species belonging to the genera of the family Boraginaceae which are non-toxic and may be free from any side effects.
  • the aroma isolates/essential oils may be selected from group of plants - Aquillaria, Cinnamomum, Cymbopogon, Elettaria, Eucalyptus, Geranium,
  • the herbal colourants may be used in lipsticks, eye shadows, glow glitters and rouges.
  • the lipstick containing essential oils and combinations of aroma isolates may release neurochemicals in the brain through the receptors in mouth and nose and may have the properties of mood enhancement, sensual pleasure, antidepressant and creative thought inducer.
  • the invention is that the essential oils and aroma isolates may be used in transparent lipstick as a functional attribute.
  • Another aspect of the invention relates to a process for extraction of organic colourants from the plants, said process comprising obtaining the plant parts, extracting wi. ⁇ organic solvents, removing the solvents by conventional methods, concentrating the extract under reduced pressure and optionally treating with acids or bases to produce various shades.
  • Yet another aspect of the invention relates to a process for the extraction of organic colourants, said process comprising the steps of: a) drying the plant parts, b) powdering the dried plant parts, c) subjecting the dry powder obtained in step (b) to Soxhlet extraction at a temperature in the range of 40-80°C or cold percolation with organic solvents at a temperature ranging between 20 to 45° C , d) concentrating the mixture of step (c) by conventional methods at reduced pressure in the range of 50-100 psi and at a temperature not exceeding 50 C, e) mixing the concentrate of step (d) with silica gel in the ratio 1 :3 to 2:7 to obtain a slurry, f) eluting the slurry with organic solvents resulting in various fractions, g) concentrating the fractions at a pressure in the range of 50 -100 psi resulting in herbal colourants, optionally treating the said colours with acids or bases to produce various shades, and h) obtaining various colours from by
  • One more aspect of the invention relates yet another process of extraction of herbal colourants from plants of the family Boraginaceae, which comprises; percolating powdered plant parts with alcohol at room temperature resulting in alcohol soluble herbal material, the said herbal material being concentrated by known means at pressures in the range of 50-100 psi and at a temperature in the range of 40-60°C, the said concentrate being made into a slurry with silica gel in a ratio in the range of 1:3 to 2:7, the said slurry being eluted by known means with organic solvents resulting in fractions, the said fractions further being concentrated by known methods at a pressure in the range of 50-100 PSI resulting in herbal colorants, optionally treating the said colours with acids or bases to produce various shades.
  • the herbal colours may be extracted from any of the three parts of the plants; namely root, stem or leaves or by taking all of them. These parts may then dried by any conventional means which may include heat treatment at a temperature between 30-45°C. Alternatively the drying process may be effected in shade though the time for drying may be rather too long.
  • the dried plant material may then be powdered and sieved through mesh to get a powder of particles of a suitable size preferably in the range of 30-60 mesh
  • the dried powder may then be extracted by using Soxhlet apparatus at a temperature range of40-80°C.
  • the dried powdered plant material may also be extracted by cold percolation at a temperature range of 20-45°C.
  • the extraction may be carried out with the non-polar and mixtures of non-polar and polar solvents selected for the extraction.
  • Non-polar solvents may be selected from hexane, petroleum ether, toluene and cyclohexane whereas the polar solvents may be selected from chloroform, acetone, ethyl alcohol and methyl alcohol.
  • the herbal colours may be obtained by concentrating the extracts at reduced pressure of 50-100 psi and a temperature at range of 40 - 60°C. This process of concentration may result in purplish red, cerise, ruby red, beet root purple, dark violet, deep blue, and blackish blue colours which are herbal in nature as no trace of organic solvent remains in the final concentrate.
  • the dried, powdered plant material may be percolated with ethyl or methyl alcohol at a temperature of 20-48°C.
  • the alcohol soluble matter may be concentrated at reduced pressure of 50-100 psi and a low temperature of 40-60°C.
  • the said concentrate may be eluted with silica gel column chromatography by using non- polar solvents like - petroleum ether, hexane, cyclohexane, toluene and mixture of said non-polar and polar solvents.
  • the polar solvents may be used like - chloroform, acetone, ethylacetate & methanol.
  • the ratio of the non-polar and polar solvents may be 20 : 1 to 4: 1.
  • the concentration of the column fractions may be made at a range of reduced pressure of 80-100 psi and a temperature of 30-60°C.
  • the colours of the concentrate may be pastel red, pale red, purplish red, rose red, cerise, ruby red, deep magenta, beet root purple, amaranth, dark purple, dark violet, deep violet, deep blue and blackish blue.
  • novel colours may be used with or without the aroma isolate/essential oils.
  • Proper mixture of aroma isolates/essential oils may result in such desirable properties of mood enhancement, sensual pleasure, antidepressant and creative thoughts inducer
  • the herbal colours may be mixed with selected mixture of aroma and applied to the base material.
  • These herbal colours may be used in other applications like eye shadow, glow glitters, rouges and skin conditioning agent.
  • These colours may be the mixture of naphthazarins and may be cyclic unsaturated diketones in which double bonds and keto group may be conjugated.
  • These herbal colours may be changed to different shades by treating it with organic and inorganic acids. The intensity of these colours may be increased with organic acids and may be decreased with inorganic acids.
  • the range of the concentration of the acids may be 0.1-10%.
  • the colour of the herbal colourants may be changed from red to blue with organic and inorganic bases.
  • the range of the concentration of the bases may be 0.1-20%.
  • These herbal colours may have excellent lipophilic properties and very minimum hydrophilic properties. These colours may be soluble in organic solvents like - hexane, petroleum ether, benzene, diethyl ether, ethylacetate, chloroform, acetone and alcohol in the range of 30-100%.
  • the pH of the extracted colours may be within the range of 5-6. All these characteristics of the herbal colours are very desirable for use in cosmaceutical applications.
  • the process of the present invention can obtain various colour: such as described in the tables 3 to 6.
  • critical parameters which are responsible for the generation of various colourants, are as under: a) composition of the solvent used for running the column chromatography, b) the ratio of the polar to non-polar solvent is also a critical parameter for the production of the different colours, c) the temperature of the Rotavapours used in the process of the concentration of the extract is also a critical parameter, d) the temperature of the hot air oven at which the lipstick formulation is made is also a critical parameter, and e) treating the said colours with specific concentration of acids or bases to produce various shades.
  • a novelty of the present invention lies in application of herbal colours in cosmaceutical preparations like lipsticks, eye shadow, glow glitters and rouges.
  • Fig. 1 represents colourant of red-purple group (60C)
  • Fig. 2 represents colourant of red-purple group (61 A)
  • Fig. 3 represents colourant of red-purple group (58 A)
  • Fig. 4 represents colourant of red-purple group (46 A)
  • Fig. 5 represents colourant of red-purple group (53 A)
  • Fig. 6 represents colourant of blue group (103 A)
  • Fig. 7 represents colourant of blue group (99 A)
  • Fig. 8 represents colourant of orange group (25B)
  • Fig. 9 represents colourant of orange red group (31C)
  • Fig. 10 represents colourant of orange red group (34C)
  • Fig. 11 represents colourant of orange red group (32C)
  • Fig. 12 represents colourant of orange red group (33B)
  • Fig. 13 represents colourant of red group (46 A)
  • Fig. 14 represents colourant of red group (44 A)
  • Fig. 15 represents colourant of red group (46B)
  • Fig. 16 represents colourant of red group (59 A)
  • Fig. 17 represents colourant of blue group (103B)
  • Fig. 18 represents colourant of blue group (103 A)
  • Fig. 19 represents colourant of blue-green group (114 A)
  • Fig. 20 represents colourant of greyed-purple group (187B)
  • Fig. 21 represents colourant of greyed-purple group (187A)
  • Fig. 22 represents colourant of purple group (79 A)
  • Fig. 23 represents colourant of brown group (200A)
  • Fig. 24 depicts a few of various shades of lipsticks obtained according to the invention.
  • Table 2 represents preferred list of Aroma isolates for the functional attributes in cosmaceutical application
  • Table 3 represents change of colours obtained from direct extraction (process 1) - Change of colours with bases
  • Table 4 represents change of colours obtained from direct extraction (process 1) - Change of colours with acids
  • Table 5 represents change of colours obtained from column (process 2) - Change of colour with acids
  • Table 6 represents change of colours obtained from column (process 2) - Change of colour with bases.
  • Table 7 Table for correspondence of colour codes based on Flower Council of Holland.
  • non-polar solvents like hexane, petroleum ether, toluene and cyclohexane
  • polar solvents are chloroform Acetone, Ethylacetate, methanol, ethanol.
  • the ranges of ratio of non-polar and polar solvents are 99:1 to 0:100.
  • Example - 1 100 gm air-dried coarsely powdered root of Onosma species is sieved in 40 mesh ?ieve and then extracted in Soxhlet apparatus with hexane at a temperature of 50°C for 12 - 18 hours which resulted in the formation of hexane soluble herbal matter.
  • the said matter was concentrated at a reduced pressure of 70 psi and at a temperature of 35°C, resulting in the yield of 6.0 gm. as the purplish red colour (Plate NO 12 A7 of Methuen handbook of colour, 1978).
  • Example - 5 100 gm air-dried coarsely powdered root of Onosma species is sieved in 40 mesh sieve and then extracted in Soxhlet apparatus with hexane at a temperature of 50°C for 12 - 18 hours which resulted in the formation of hexane soluble herbal matter. The said matter was concentrated at a reduced pressure of 70 psi and at a temperature of 35°C, resulting in the yield of 6.0 gm. as the purplish red colour (Plate NO 12 A7) which gets changed to rose red after treatment with 1% formic acid.
  • Example - 5 100 gm air-dried coarsely powdered root of Onosma species is sieved in 40 mesh sieve and then extracted in Soxhlet apparatus with hexane at a temperature of 50°C for 12 - 18 hours which resulted in the formation of hexane soluble herbal matter. The said matter was concentrated at a reduced pressure of 70 psi and at a temperature of
  • Example - 6 100 gm air dried coarsely powder stem, root and leaf in the ratio of 1 : 1: 3 of Macrotomia species is percolated at room temperature with the mixture of chloroform and hexane in the ratio of 5:95 for 4 hours (3 times). Combined all the extracts and concentrated at a pressure of 70 psi and a temperature of 50°C. Thus 3.5 gm of cerise colour (Plate No: 12 C8) was obtained which gets changed to vivid blue (Plate No: 21 A8) with the addition of the 0.1% NaO
  • the herbal colourant obtained by the process described in Examples 1 to 7 can be used according to the invention to develop various cosmetic compositions useful as lip stick, eye-liners, eye-shadows, glow-glitters and rouges.
  • Such compositions are prepared following the general principles used in making cosmetic compositions.
  • the herbal colourant obtained from the plant parts is mixed with a base in appropriate proportion.
  • the base may be liquefied first and the colourant of choice may be added and stirred.
  • the colourant and the base are added, the mixture is heated, and the ingredients are stirred to obtain a homogenous mixture.
  • essential oil is added together with softening agents, mood lifting agents and other additives as may be necessary for the compositions.
  • glow-glitters composition is to be prepared, with the basic composition, additives that provide glitter are added.
  • the composition prepared when cooled to room temperature becomes suitable for use as a cosmetic composition.
  • Rosamarinus (Essential oil) 1.0 ⁇ l 0.001%
  • red colourant 0.5 mg was mixed with 1 ml of safflower oil and 1 ml of castor oil thoroughly.
  • 0.5 gm of melted bees was mixed at a temperature of 70°C.
  • 5 microliter tocopheral and 1 microlitre of sandal wood oil was added to the aforesaid mixture. Then the mixture was cooled to room temperature. Thus, cooled mixture is ready for application as eye shadows.
  • Example - 13 Antidepressant activity
  • 0.5 mg of herbal colour was mixed with 1 ml of Safflower oil and 1 ml Castor oil thoroughly.
  • 1.5 gm of melted bees wax was mixed at a temperature of 70 C.
  • 5 microlitre tocopherol and 1 microlitre blend of sweet basil oil having linaloal and linolyl acetate
  • Jasminum and lemon grass oil/citral essential oil was added to the aforesaid mixture. Then the mixture was cooled to room temperature. This cooled mixture is now ready for application.
  • Example - 14 (Mood lifting) 1.5 mg of herbal colour was mixed with 1 ml of Safflower oil and 1 ml Castor oil thoroughly. In the said mixture 1.5 gm of melted bees wax was mixed at a temperature of 70°C. After that 5 microlitre tocopherol and 1 microlitre blend of Jasmine, Muskon oil and lavender oil essential oil was added to the aforesaid mixture. Then the mixture was cooled to room temperature. This cooled mixture is now ready for application
  • Example - 15 (Lipstick for men) 1 ml of Safflower oil and 1 ml Castor oil thoroughly. In the said mixture 1.5 gm of melted bees wax was mixed at a temperature of 70°C. After that 5 microlitre tocopherol and 1 microlitre blend of sandal wood oil and basil oil was added to the aforesaid mixture. Then the mixture was cooled to room temperature. This cooled mixture is now ready for application.
  • Table 1 Preferred list of Aroma i.e essential oils for the functional attributes in cosmaceutical application
  • Ocimum oil Jasminum oil: Cymbopogon oil (1 : 2 : 1)
  • Ocimum oil Mentha oil: Rosmarinus oil (2 : 1 : 1)
  • Jasminum oil Mentha oil: Rosmarinus oil (1 : 1 : 1)
  • Cymbopogon oil Ocimum oil: Mentha oil (1 : 2 : 1)
  • Mentha oil Rosmarinus oil (1 : 1)
  • Aluillaria oil Elettaria oil: Rosmarinus oil (1 : 1 : 1)
  • Jasminum oil Lavandula oil: Pelorgonium oil (1 : 2 : 1 )
  • Ocimum oil Jasminum oil: Cymbopogon oil r * • 2 : 1)
  • Jasminum oil Rosa oil: Palergonium oil (1 : 2 )
  • Cymbopogan oil Rosa oil (2 : 1)
  • Table 2 Preferred list of Aroma isolates for the functional attributes in cosmaceutical application.
  • the change in color of the colourants occurs then they are subjected to aci.* or base treatments.
  • change of colour occurs by treating the colourant with traces of food grade acids example acetic acid at a quantum less than 0.1%, likewise, the change of colour occurs with the treatment of base which can be as traces as less than 0.1%.
  • the following four tables provide information about the color changes change occur due to acid or base treatments.
  • Table 7 Table for correspondence of colour codes based on Flower Council of Holland.
  • Herbal colourants offer an advantage in that they can be added or used without taking into consideration certification by different agencies like FAO, WHO and Cosmetic authorities etc.
  • the herbal colourants are safe, eco-friendly and health protective.
  • These herbal colourants may be used in more sensitive and delicate parts of the body like lips, cheeks and eyelids.
  • the herbal colourants can be used in leucoderma particularly of lips region. 5.
  • the herbal colours are 100% lipophilic in nature.
  • the herbal colours are antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory.
  • the herbal colours are free from any strong side effects like carcinogenic effects to the users.
  • the herbal colours can be made in different shades in a cost-effective manner. 9. Addition of different essential oil and their isolates promotes the stimulation of creative thoughts, enhance sensual feeling induce positive mental health and well being and to help to overcome the depressant feelings (anti-depressant).
  • the of the present invention is to develop a safe and eco-friendly health protective and beauty enhancing herbal functional composition that contains only the natural products.
  • the natural safe colour has been obtained and developed from different plant species belonging to the genus Arnebia, Bixa, Butea, Carthamus, Hibiscus, Jatropha,
  • Tagetes Various shades of colours were differentially extracted by following certain well- defined extraction methods.
  • the invention also seeks to use lipstick as a medium of aroma therapy.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne de nouvelles compositions d'origine végétale écologiques et sans danger, présentant un effet protecteur pour la santé et un effet d'amélioration de la beauté, se prêtant à des applications cosmétiques variées, par exemple sous la forme de rouges à lèvres, de fards à paupières, de paillettes et de fards à joues, lesdites compositions contenant des colorants provenant de plantes de la famille des Boraginaceae. L'invention concerne également un procédé de préparation desdites compositions. L'invention concerne encore l'utilisation de rouges à lèvres en tant que support d'aromathérapie.
PCT/IN2001/000079 2001-03-30 2001-03-30 Colorants et aromes d'origine vegetale, ecologiques et sans danger, presentant un effet protecteur pour la sante, et utiles dans des applications cosmeceutiques WO2002078652A1 (fr)

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PCT/IN2001/000079 WO2002078652A1 (fr) 2001-03-30 2001-03-30 Colorants et aromes d'origine vegetale, ecologiques et sans danger, presentant un effet protecteur pour la sante, et utiles dans des applications cosmeceutiques
FR0113648A FR2822677B1 (fr) 2001-03-30 2001-10-23 Procede d'extraction de matieres colorantes vegetales

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/IN2001/000079 WO2002078652A1 (fr) 2001-03-30 2001-03-30 Colorants et aromes d'origine vegetale, ecologiques et sans danger, presentant un effet protecteur pour la sante, et utiles dans des applications cosmeceutiques
FR0113648A FR2822677B1 (fr) 2001-03-30 2001-10-23 Procede d'extraction de matieres colorantes vegetales

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FR (1) FR2822677B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2002078652A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

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FR2859108A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-04 Persee Medica Composition anti-stress et son inhalateur
GB2448002A (en) * 2007-03-29 2008-10-01 Velveteen Bunni Llc Cosmetic and dermatological formulations with natural pigments and methods of use
WO2010109286A1 (fr) * 2009-03-24 2010-09-30 Council Of Scientific & Industrial Research Procédé de préparation de fractions végétales colorées non hygroscopiques et cristallisées riches en composés phénoliques

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FR2896686B1 (fr) * 2006-01-27 2008-09-19 Oreal Procede de preparation d'une composition cosmetique, appareil et recharge pour la preparation d'une telle composition

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US4459285A (en) * 1981-02-27 1984-07-10 Societe Anonyme Dite: L'oreal Cosmetic composition for the treatment of the hair and skin comprising a powder of flowers or flower tops and a cohesion agent
EP0124393A1 (fr) * 1983-04-01 1984-11-07 Alban Muller International, S.A.R.L. Composition et procédé pour la teinture du système pileux
WO1991012792A1 (fr) * 1990-03-02 1991-09-05 The Partnership Of Isaac G. Eliaz And Shmuel Gonen Procede et produit favorisant la croissance des cheveux et le traitement de la peau
WO1998040086A2 (fr) * 1997-03-10 1998-09-17 The Riley Fletcher Foundation Composition d'huile essentielle
WO1999064025A1 (fr) * 1998-06-08 1999-12-16 Fytokem Products Inc. Inhibiteur de tyrosinase, extrait de plantes
US6214352B1 (en) * 2000-01-06 2001-04-10 Matsukawa Kagaku Co., Ltd. Tyrosinase inhibiting agent

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FR2477872A1 (fr) * 1980-03-17 1981-09-18 Fabre Sa Pierre Nouveau colorant capillaire extrait d'alkanna tinctoria et procede pour sa preparation
US5244469A (en) * 1988-12-29 1993-09-14 Ihara Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. Process for preparation of black coloring materials and application thereof: chitosan treated with black extract of lithospermum root
JP4028604B2 (ja) * 1996-04-30 2007-12-26 株式会社林原生物化学研究所 赤色顔料、その製造方法及びそれを用いた化粧料
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FR2472934A1 (fr) * 1980-01-04 1981-07-10 Oreal Compositions cosmetiques a base d'une poudre d'origine vegetale
US4459285A (en) * 1981-02-27 1984-07-10 Societe Anonyme Dite: L'oreal Cosmetic composition for the treatment of the hair and skin comprising a powder of flowers or flower tops and a cohesion agent
EP0124393A1 (fr) * 1983-04-01 1984-11-07 Alban Muller International, S.A.R.L. Composition et procédé pour la teinture du système pileux
WO1991012792A1 (fr) * 1990-03-02 1991-09-05 The Partnership Of Isaac G. Eliaz And Shmuel Gonen Procede et produit favorisant la croissance des cheveux et le traitement de la peau
WO1998040086A2 (fr) * 1997-03-10 1998-09-17 The Riley Fletcher Foundation Composition d'huile essentielle
WO1999064025A1 (fr) * 1998-06-08 1999-12-16 Fytokem Products Inc. Inhibiteur de tyrosinase, extrait de plantes
US6214352B1 (en) * 2000-01-06 2001-04-10 Matsukawa Kagaku Co., Ltd. Tyrosinase inhibiting agent

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2859108A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-04 Persee Medica Composition anti-stress et son inhalateur
WO2005023279A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-17 Persee Medica Composition anti-stress et son inhalateur
GB2448002A (en) * 2007-03-29 2008-10-01 Velveteen Bunni Llc Cosmetic and dermatological formulations with natural pigments and methods of use
WO2010109286A1 (fr) * 2009-03-24 2010-09-30 Council Of Scientific & Industrial Research Procédé de préparation de fractions végétales colorées non hygroscopiques et cristallisées riches en composés phénoliques

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Publication number Publication date
FR2822677A1 (fr) 2002-10-04
FR2822677B1 (fr) 2007-06-08

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