WO2001047482A1 - Composition pour proteger les cheveux contre des conditions d'humidite extremes - Google Patents

Composition pour proteger les cheveux contre des conditions d'humidite extremes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001047482A1
WO2001047482A1 PCT/US2000/032054 US0032054W WO0147482A1 WO 2001047482 A1 WO2001047482 A1 WO 2001047482A1 US 0032054 W US0032054 W US 0032054W WO 0147482 A1 WO0147482 A1 WO 0147482A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
hair
panthenol
oligosaccharide
protein
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2000/032054
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Robert Kalafsky
Philip Franco
Freda E. Robinson
Alan Letton
Original Assignee
Avon Products, Inc.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Avon Products, Inc. filed Critical Avon Products, Inc.
Priority to AU16279/01A priority Critical patent/AU1627901A/en
Publication of WO2001047482A1 publication Critical patent/WO2001047482A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures

Definitions

  • the present invention relates generally to compositions used to care for the hair. More particularly, the present invention relates to compositions for protecting hair from the detrimental effects from changes in humidity.
  • a hair fiber is an arrangement of keratin that grows by the reproduction of three cell-types from a hair follicle.
  • the first type is the cuticle, which is the outermost layer of the hair fiber.
  • the cuticle has hard, flattened, horny scales that overlap one another. This gives a very strong, flexible arrangement, similar to the scales of a fish.
  • the function of the cuticle is to protect the more delicate cortex.
  • the cortex is the most important layer of the hair and makes up from 75% to 90% of its bulk.
  • the cortex is made of many millions of parallel fibers of hard keratin, often referred to as polypeptide chains. These parallel fibers are twisted around one another, and are similar to a heavy rope in appearance.
  • the medulla is made of soft keratin. It is located at the center of the hair fiber. The purpose and function of the medulla is unknown and hair does not seem to suffer when the medulla is missing.
  • Normal atmospheric condition for hair is considered to be 65% relative humidity at about 25°C. At this level, hair remains in its best condition. Hair reacts negatively to extremes in humidity. Hair will become limp or frizzy in an environment of high humidity due to the greater moisture content in the air. However, even worse, in low relative humidity, hair will become brittle and statically charged. Brittle hair becomes splintered and breaks, while static charge creates "fly away” hair. Thus, it is desirable to treat hair with a composition adapted to resist the effects of changes in humidity to keep hair in its most normalized state and, hence, its best condition.
  • European Patent Application No. 95107035.8 provides a heat-safe hair preparation and method of using the same.
  • the Shah preparation is an aqueous blend consisting of wheat protein, wheat oligosaccharide, wheat amino acids, and panthenol as its essential active ingredients.
  • the Shah application provides that its preparation protects hair from heat styling stresses.
  • a novel hair care composition comprising phytantriol, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, and oligosaccharides.
  • the composition also includes a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
  • the present invention provides a hair care composition that is topically applied. It has been unexpectedly discovered that the synergy between phytantriol, panthenol, amino acid, protein, and oligosaccharide gives improved protection to the hair from changes in relative humidity (RH).
  • RH relative humidity
  • Phytantriol is an aliphatic alcohol typically used as a hair conditioner in shampoos and other hair grooming products. It is also known as 3,7,11 ,15-tetramethyl-1 ,2,3-hexadecanetriol or tetramethyl thhydroxyhexadecane. Phytantriol may be either natural or synthetic.
  • Phytantriol has the formula:
  • phytantriol be about 0.0005 percent by weight (wt.%) to about 2 wt.% of the total weight of the composition. More preferably, phytantriol is about 0.001 wt.% to about 0.5 wt.%, and most preferably about 0.01 wt.% to about 0.5 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
  • panthenol is an alcohol typically used as a hair conditioning agent in shampoos and other hair grooming compositions. It is also known as panthothenyl alcohol or 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxpropyl)- 3,3-dimethylbutanamide. This second ingredient may be either natural or synthetic. Panthenol is available as D, L, and a racemic mixture of D and L. Panthenol also encompasses derivatives of panthenol, such as panthenyl ethyl ether.
  • Panthenol has the formula:
  • Panthenol is preferably about 0.00001 wt.% to about 5 wt.% of the total weight of the composition. It is more preferred that panthenol be about 0.001 wt.% to about 2.5 wt.%. Most preferably, panthenol is present from about 0.01 wt.% to about 1 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the panthenol is panthenyl ethyl ether.
  • a substantially anhydrous composition preferably includes less than 5 wt.%, and, most preferably, less than 1 wt.% water.
  • amino acids are a third ingredient.
  • amino acids are used as hair conditioning agents.
  • Amino acids are derived from the hydrolysis of proteins from various sources.
  • Preferred amino acids include animal, vegetable, and synthetic amino acids. More preferably for use in the present invention, the amino acids are vegetable amino acids, particularly amino acids derived from oat, soy or wheat.
  • a most preferred solution of wheat amino acids is available from Croda, Inc. of Parsippany, New Jersey, and sold under the trade name HydrotriticumTM WAA.
  • amino acids in the present composition Preferably, about 40% of the amino acids in the present composition have carboxyl-containing R groups, or side groups.
  • the small sizes of the amino acids allow absorption and retention in the hair fibers.
  • a preferred amino acid distribution is given in the following table. TAEiLE 1 : Amino Acid Distribution
  • the amino acids are preferably about 0.00001 wt.% to about 5 wt.% of the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the amino acids are about 0.00005 wt.% to about 2.5 wt.%, and, most preferably, about 0.0001 wt.% to about 0.25 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the fourth ingredient is one or more oligosaccharides.
  • Oligosaccharides are generally defined as carbohydrates containing from about two to about eight simple sugars linked together. Examples of oligosaccharides include dextrose, fructose, and sucrose. Oligosaccharides are derived from various sources. A preferred source of oligosaccharides for the present invention is wheat (genus Triticum).
  • the oligosaccharides useful in the present invention may be either solubilized or partially hydrolyzed. Preferably, both solubilized oligosaccharides and partially hydrolyzed oligosaccharides are present in the composition. Solubilized oligosaccharides enhance moisture retention, while hydrolyzed oligosaccharides enhance film-forming properties.
  • the oligosaccharides present in the composition have a dextrose equivalent value of approximately 30% and a mean molecular weight over 720.
  • the dextrose equivalent value is a measurement used to indicate the average degree of hydrolysis of the oligosaccharides.
  • the dextrose equivalent value increases as the oligosaccharides become more completely hydrolyzed.
  • the oligosaccharides are preferably present in a total amount about
  • the oligosaccharides are about 0.001 wt.% to about 1 wt.%, and, most preferably, about 0.01 wt.% to about 0.1 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the present composition also includes one or more proteins.
  • Proteins are generally defined as linear polypeptide chains with linked amino acids. Proteins and peptides are derived from numerous sources including animal, vegetable, and synthetic. A preferred source for proteins for the present invention is vegetable, particularly wheat.
  • the proteins present in the composition are water- soluble, amphoteric, and have a molecular weight of greater than about 1000 and, more particularly, about 3000.
  • the amphoteric character of the preferred proteins means that there are cationic sites on the proteins that can bind to the anionic groups present in the hair.
  • the proteins present in the composition preferably have sulfur containing amino acids, such as cystine. Hair contains vast numbers of free sulfhydryl groups that are available to bond with such sulfur containing amino acids.
  • Protein is preferably present in an amount about 0.00001 wt.% to about 5 wt.% of the total weight of the composition. More preferably, protein is about 0.005 wt.% to about 2.5 wt.%, and, most preferably, about 0.05 wt.% to about 0.5 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the oligosaccharides and proteins may be derived simultaneously, which results in a unified mixture of oligosaccharides and proteins.
  • a preferred example of such a unified mixture for use in the present invention is manufactured by Croda, Inc., Parsippany, N.J. and sold under the trade name Cropeptide W.
  • the present invention preferably also includes a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, such as water or alcohol.
  • vehicle will depend on the hair composition product desired.
  • a rinse off product may include surfactants, fatty alcohols, propylene glycols, glycerins, or oils in the vehicle.
  • the vehicle may include water, alcohol, emulsifier, or silicone.
  • Leave-in products according to the present invention include aerosol hairsprays. However, for purposes of the present invention, the aerosol is considered a carrier and is not contemplated to account for any portion of the finished composition.
  • the present invention is directed to compositions and methods for improving body and control of hair, particularly under the extremes of humidity.
  • the effects of humidity on hair body and control can be tested by measuring the force necessary to deform a hair fiber by about 1% under constant tension.
  • the moisture content of the hair fiber is high, less force is necessary to deform the hair fiber because the hair becomes soft. However, the hair also becomes limp and frizzy.
  • the moisture content of the hair fiber is low, more force is necessary because the hair becomes drier, stiffer, and more brittle, which results in the hair becoming splintered and breaking. It is desirable to have a product that maintains hair in approximately the same enhanced condition it normally is found at 65% RH, notwithstanding changes in humidity conditions.
  • compositions were prepared:
  • Example 1 contains panthenol, wheat amino acids, and phytantriol in a shampoo base. It does not contain hydrolyzed wheat protein/oligosaccharide.
  • Example 2 contains hydrolyzed wheat protein/oligosaccharide in the same shampoo base as Example 1.
  • Example 2 does not contain panthenol, wheat amino acid, or phytantriol.
  • Example 3 (the presert invention) contains hydrolyzed wheat protein/oligosaccharide, panthenol, wheat amino acid, and phytantriol in the same shampoo base as Examples 1 and 2.
  • the following test results were obtained by measuring the force (F1) necessary to deform hair fibers by about 1.0% under constant tension in a moisture controlled chamber at three different equilibrium conditions.
  • the hair fibers were bleached hair tresses, De Meo quality.
  • the hair fibers were about 96 micrometers ( ⁇ m) in diameter and about 50 millimeters (mm) long. Prior to any testing, all fibers were washed with an aqueous solution having about 10.0% active sodium lauryl sulfate and rinsed thoroughly with deionized water.
  • the protocol included the following steps: (1) expose untreated hair fibers to 45% RH for three hours to achieve moisture content equilibrium, (2) apply deformation at a speed of about 120 mm per second with a Mini- Tensile Tester Diastron, (3) repeat test five times, (4) repeat equilibrium and test at 65% RH and 85% RH.
  • the hair fibers were treated with the formulations of Examples 1 , 2, and 3.
  • the goal with the treated hair fibers was to achieve an F1 value across all three RH levels that was statistically equivalent to the F1 value of the untreated hair fibers at 65% RH.
  • the results set forth in the table below are the average values of each of the five tests at each of the three RH levels.
  • Example 1 a combination of phytantriol, panthenol, and wheat amino acid (Example 1) offered no protection to the hair when exposed to environments having either high or low relative humidity.
  • the hair fibers were normalized across all three RH levels, thereby providing the hair with its greatest body and control, particularly at low RH where the greatest physical damage occurs to the hair (e.g., brittleness, dryness, splintering, and breaking).
  • the present composition can be rinse off or leave-in product, such as a shampoo, conditioner, styling aid, hair dye, hair perm, hair straightener, or clarifying agent a treatment, styling, or nutritive product or any combination of same.
  • the composition can be in the form of a gel, powder, tablet, mousse, spritz, spray, pomade, serum, solution, emulsion, or lotion, or any combination of it.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition de produit capillaire à base de phytantriol, de panthénol, d'acides aminés, et d'oligosaccharides. La composition se présente de préférence dans un vecteur cosmétiquement acceptable. La composition peut se présenter sous différentes formes, et notamment de shampooing, de conditionneur, de gel, de mousse, de gelée fluide, de sérum, de lotion, de crème ou de pulvérisation.
PCT/US2000/032054 1999-12-23 2000-11-22 Composition pour proteger les cheveux contre des conditions d'humidite extremes WO2001047482A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU16279/01A AU1627901A (en) 1999-12-23 2000-11-22 Composition for protecting hair from extremes of humidity

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US47142399A 1999-12-23 1999-12-23
US09/471,423 1999-12-23

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2001047482A1 true WO2001047482A1 (fr) 2001-07-05

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ID=23871584

Family Applications (1)

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PCT/US2000/032054 WO2001047482A1 (fr) 1999-12-23 2000-11-22 Composition pour proteger les cheveux contre des conditions d'humidite extremes

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AU (1) AU1627901A (fr)
WO (1) WO2001047482A1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1661551A2 (fr) * 2004-11-26 2006-05-31 L'oreal Procédé de défrisage des fibres kératiniques avec un moyen de chauffage et un agent dénaturant
US10123966B2 (en) 2013-05-16 2018-11-13 The Procter And Gamble Company Hair thickening compositions and methods of use

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4656043A (en) * 1985-09-13 1987-04-07 Richardson-Vicks Inc. Peroxide-containing conditioning shampoo
EP0681826A2 (fr) * 1994-05-10 1995-11-15 Neutrogena Corporation Composition de traitement des cheveux protégée contre la chaleur et son utlisation
US5925615A (en) * 1998-03-06 1999-07-20 Nu Skin International, Inc. Awapuhi (Zingiber zerumbet) -containing hair cleansing and conditioning compositions

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4656043A (en) * 1985-09-13 1987-04-07 Richardson-Vicks Inc. Peroxide-containing conditioning shampoo
EP0681826A2 (fr) * 1994-05-10 1995-11-15 Neutrogena Corporation Composition de traitement des cheveux protégée contre la chaleur et son utlisation
US5925615A (en) * 1998-03-06 1999-07-20 Nu Skin International, Inc. Awapuhi (Zingiber zerumbet) -containing hair cleansing and conditioning compositions

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1661551A2 (fr) * 2004-11-26 2006-05-31 L'oreal Procédé de défrisage des fibres kératiniques avec un moyen de chauffage et un agent dénaturant
EP1661551A3 (fr) * 2004-11-26 2006-10-11 L'oreal Procédé de défrisage des fibres kératiniques avec un moyen de chauffage et un agent dénaturant
US10123966B2 (en) 2013-05-16 2018-11-13 The Procter And Gamble Company Hair thickening compositions and methods of use

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AU1627901A (en) 2001-07-09

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