WO1999040897A1 - Composition for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from bacopa monnieri (l.) - Google Patents

Composition for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from bacopa monnieri (l.) Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999040897A1
WO1999040897A1 PCT/FR1999/000245 FR9900245W WO9940897A1 WO 1999040897 A1 WO1999040897 A1 WO 1999040897A1 FR 9900245 W FR9900245 W FR 9900245W WO 9940897 A1 WO9940897 A1 WO 9940897A1
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cosmetic
extract
skin
dermopharmaceutical
bacopa monnieri
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PCT/FR1999/000245
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French (fr)
Inventor
Karl Lintner
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Sederma S.A.
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Priority to AU22836/99A priority Critical patent/AU2283699A/en
Publication of WO1999040897A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999040897A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth

Definitions

  • compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from Bacopa monnieri (L.).
  • the current way of life imposes aggressions of all kinds, physical, chemical and psychological on the organisms which are subjected to it.
  • the skin constituting the only interface between the individual and the outside world, it is clear that this organ is the first bodily element reached by the physical and chemical external aggressions produced by pollution in general and especially by atmospheric pollution.
  • Psychological stress has repercussions on the skin through two different routes: On the one hand, psychological stress has direct physiological repercussions.
  • the skin undergoes alterations due to imbalances induced by sudden variations in the levels of circulating hormones, in response to the different sequences of daily stress. These abrupt variations modify at the intimate level of cells, skin and others, the biochemical regulations, delicate and fine, which ensure the sustainability of an organism.
  • stomach ulcer the best known consequence of this type of stress is stomach ulcer.
  • Bacopa is an aquatic and lakeside plant with about a hundred different species and which grows in the warmest regions of the world.
  • Bacopa monnieri L. develops mainly in China, in the provinces of Guangdong and Yunnan for example, as well as in Taiwan.
  • Bacopa monnieri L. has recently been successfully imported into Southern California.
  • Bacopa monnieri extracts also have beneficial effects when applied topically.
  • the invention which is the subject of this present patent resides in the discovery that a plant extract obtained from Bacopa monnieri, is capable of protecting the skin from the effects of the various stresses mentioned above, by soothing and hydrating properties. , regulating microcirculation and cellular respiration and also activating lipolysis.
  • the plant extract is obtained by treatment, in a ratio of 100 grams of Bacopa monnieri per 1 liter of ethanol, for 48 hours at room temperature. After drying, the dry extract obtained is taken up in water.
  • the extraction solvents mentioned above are not limiting and can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, polyols cyclic, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.
  • the first which is an ex-vivo test consists in exposing a reconstituted skin to different stresses.
  • the reconstituted skin consists of a dermal layer on which are affixed keratinocytes which will form a multilayer epidermis, differentiated and similar to normal skin.
  • This method is an alternative benchmark method in Cosmetics and Dermopharmacy since it allows products to be tested by an in vitro method but under conditions very close to vivo wine.
  • Body milk was tested in comparison with the same composition made without Bacopa monnieri extract (placebo milk).
  • the cell regeneration test consists in applying a solution of triethanolamine (30%), for 30 minutes, to the equivalent skin and then rinsing it several times with demineralized water. The products to be tested are then applied for two hours, after which time the number of surviving cells is measured using the fluorescent dye Hoechst 3348. Under these conditions, in the presence of milk containing the extract of Bacopa monnieri, it is It is possible to conclude that in the presence of the extract of Bacopa monnieri, the number of living cells after chemical attack is approximately 36% higher than in its absence.
  • the second test carried out is an in vivo test conventionally used to demonstrate soothing properties on the skin of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical products and can be described as follows.
  • a 10% solution of lactic acid in physiological saline is applied to each of the two nasolabial folds.
  • Body milk the composition of which was given previously as an example of use, containing 3% of extract of Bacopa monnieri, is applied as it is, in one go, as soon as the tingling appears, on the side of the nose previously chosen from randomized by the investigator. At the same time, the other side receives the placebo (same composition except the absence of Bacopa monnieri extract).
  • the intensity of the tingling is noted during the 5 minutes following the application, in the area having received the placebo or the extract of Bacopa monnieri, according to the same rating system as that determined for the evaluation of the reactivity. initial.
  • the entire test is carried out in an air-conditioned room, in which the ambient temperature and the humidity are kept constant.
  • the average intensity of tingling is determined at each time of the test, by calculating the arithmetic mean and the deviation from the mean (SEM) of the individual data obtained on all the volunteers.
  • SEM arithmetic mean and the deviation from the mean
  • the test was carried out on 20 volunteers, 15 women and 5 men, aged 21 to 55 who all had facial skin defined as “hypersensitive”, by the "Stinging Test” method.
  • a third example will demonstrate, by means of an in vitro study, another activity of the extract of Bacopa monnieri which consists in stimulating the release of fatty acids and glycerol from the triglycerides contained in the adipocytes.
  • 5 Human adipocytes obtained from pieces of skin removed during plastic surgery) are suspended in a survival medium. The basic lipolytic metabolism is followed by the dosage of glycerol and fatty acids released over time.
  • a positive stimulation control consists of theophylline.
  • the lipolytic activity can vary from +10 to + 1550%. It turns out that the addition of caffeine, theophylline or other xanthine derivatives further potentiate lipolytic activity. At the same time, we note that these extracts have an in vivo activity (topical application) not only slimming (demonstrated by ultrasound ultrasound in a clinical study on 20 people), but also firming. Cutometer R study
  • Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Bacopa monnieri are therefore advantageously used as such or for the preparation of 6 medicines for skin care, including against the skin effects of stress, to soothe, calm, relax, hydrate, regenerate the skin, to regulate microcirculation and cellular respiration, to prevent aging of the skin and leather hair, to obtain effects, slimming, anti-wrinkle and anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, anti-dandruff and or anti-hair loss.
  • the plant extract of Bacopa monnieri is used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization
  • the plant extract obtained from Bacopa previously described can be used in any dosage form used in Cosmetics or Dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils, without this list being exhaustive.
  • the plant extract obtained from Bacopa previously described can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, hydro- active ingredients. or fat-soluble, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
  • the concentrations of the plant extract obtained from Bacopa previously described can vary between 0.01% and 40% (w / w), preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight, in the finished product.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)

Abstract

The invention concerns compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing, in efficient quantity, a plant extract obtained from Bacopa monnieri (L.). Said cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing said plant extract are advantageously used in cases of stress, whether physical or chemical or psychological, which affect skin metabolism and thereby skin functions and appearance.

Description

Titre: Compositions à usage cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique contenant un extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Bacopa monnieri (L.). Le mode de vie actuel impose des agressions de toutes sortes, physiques, chimiques et psychologiques aux organismes qui y sont soumis. La peau constituant la seule interface entre l'individu et le monde extérieur, il est clair que cet organe est le premier élément corporel atteint par les agressions physiques et chimiques extérieures produits par la pollution en général et spécialement par la pollution atmosphérique. Le stress psychologique quant à lui se répercute au niveau cutané par deux voies différentes: D'une part, le stress psychique a des répercussions directement physiologiques. La peau subit des altérations dues aux déséquilibres induits par les brusques variations des taux d'hormones circulantes, en réponses aux différentes séquences du stress quotidien. Ces brusques variations modifient au niveau intime des cellules, cutanées et autres, les régulations biochimiques, délicates et fines, qui assurent la pérennité d'un organisme. Bien que non localisée au niveau cutané, la conséquence la plus connue de ce type de stress est l'ulcère de l'estomac.Title: Compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from Bacopa monnieri (L.). The current way of life imposes aggressions of all kinds, physical, chemical and psychological on the organisms which are subjected to it. The skin constituting the only interface between the individual and the outside world, it is clear that this organ is the first bodily element reached by the physical and chemical external aggressions produced by pollution in general and especially by atmospheric pollution. Psychological stress has repercussions on the skin through two different routes: On the one hand, psychological stress has direct physiological repercussions. The skin undergoes alterations due to imbalances induced by sudden variations in the levels of circulating hormones, in response to the different sequences of daily stress. These abrupt variations modify at the intimate level of cells, skin and others, the biochemical regulations, delicate and fine, which ensure the sustainability of an organism. Although not localized in the skin, the best known consequence of this type of stress is stomach ulcer.
D'autre part, pour faire face aux stress psychiques, les individus ont de plus en plus recours à des palliatifs comme par exemple, l'alimentation déséquilibrée qui va du simple désordre quotidien à la boulimie ou à l'anorexie, le tabac, l'alcool, voire à utiliser des produits antidépresseurs. Les conséquences néfastes des consommations excessives de tabac et d'alcool sont bien connues au niveau cutané: couperose, dessèchement et vieillissement prématuré en sont trois des principales caractéristiques.On the other hand, to cope with mental stress, individuals are increasingly resorting to palliative measures such as, for example, unbalanced diet which ranges from simple daily disorder to bulimia or anorexia, tobacco, l alcohol, or even to use antidepressant products. The harmful consequences of excessive tobacco and alcohol consumption are well known at the cutaneous level: rosacea, dryness and premature aging are three of the main characteristics.
Ces agressions sont permanentes et il est quasiment impossible de s'y soustraire de manière continue et efficace. Il est alors dans la logique des industries Cosmétiques et Dermo-pharmaceutiques de mettre au point des produits qui aident la peau à mieux supporter, voire à corriger et/ou à réparer, les conséquences néfastes de ces diverses agressions.These attacks are permanent and it is almost impossible to escape them continuously and effectively. It is therefore in the logic of the Cosmetics and Dermo-pharmaceutical industries to develop products that help the skin to better withstand, or even correct and / or repair, the harmful consequences of these various attacks.
La Bacopa est une plante aquatique et lacustre comptant environ une centaines d'espèces différentes et qui se développe dans les régions les plus chaudes du monde. La Bacopa monnieri L. se développe principalement en Chine, dans les provinces de Guangdong et de Yunnan par exemple, ainsi qu'à Taiwan. Récemment, la Bacopa monnieri L. a été importée avec succès en Californie du Sud.Bacopa is an aquatic and lakeside plant with about a hundred different species and which grows in the warmest regions of the world. Bacopa monnieri L. develops mainly in China, in the provinces of Guangdong and Yunnan for example, as well as in Taiwan. Bacopa monnieri L. has recently been successfully imported into Southern California.
Des extraits grossiers de cette plante étaient utilisés dans la médecine traditionnelle hindoue pour le traitement des retards du développement intellectuel ainsi que dans ceux des 2 désordres mentaux tels que de l'épilepsie et la démence (Nadkami KM, 1954,1 :p624). Plus récemment, des études in vitro on montré une activité anticancéreuse de Bacopa monnieriCoarse extracts of this plant were used in traditional Hindu medicine for the treatment of delays in intellectual development as well as in those of 2 mental disorders such as epilepsy and dementia (Nadkami KM, 1954,1: p624). More recently, in vitro studies have shown anticancer activity of Bacopa monnieri
(par exemple: Bhakuni DS et al., 1969,3,p24; Elangovan V et al.,1995,55:211-215).(for example: Bhakuni DS et al., 1969,3, p24; Elangovan V et al., 1995,55: 211-215).
Nous avons découvert que, convenablement réalisés, les extraits de Bacopa monnieri possèdent aussi des effets bénéfiques lorsqu'ils sont appliqués par voie topique.We have discovered that, when properly made, Bacopa monnieri extracts also have beneficial effects when applied topically.
L'invention faisant l'objet de ce présent brevet, réside dans la découverte qu'un extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Bacopa monnieri, est capable de protéger la peau des effets des différents stress évoqués ci-dessus, par des propriétés apaisantes, hydratantes, régulatrices de la microcirculation et de la respiration cellulaire et également d'activation de la lipolyse. L'extrait végétal est obtenu par le traitement, dans un rapport de 100 grammes de Bacopa monnieri pour 1 litre d'éthanol, pendant 48 heures à température ambiante. Après séchage, l'extrait sec obtenu est repris dans de l'eau.The invention which is the subject of this present patent resides in the discovery that a plant extract obtained from Bacopa monnieri, is capable of protecting the skin from the effects of the various stresses mentioned above, by soothing and hydrating properties. , regulating microcirculation and cellular respiration and also activating lipolysis. The plant extract is obtained by treatment, in a ratio of 100 grams of Bacopa monnieri per 1 liter of ethanol, for 48 hours at room temperature. After drying, the dry extract obtained is taken up in water.
Cet exemple d'obtention de l'extrait végétal du Bacopa, n'est pas limitatif.This example of obtaining the plant extract of Bacopa, is not limiting.
Il est en effet possible de réaliser l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri par d'autres procédés comme, par exemple, la macération, la simple décoction, la lixiviation, l'extraction sous reflux, l'extraction au moyen d'ultrasons ou de micro-ondes ou enfin des techniques à contre courant, sans que cette liste soit limitative.It is indeed possible to produce the extract of Bacopa monnieri by other processes such as, for example, maceration, simple decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction by means of ultrasound or micro -waves or finally techniques against the current, without this list being exhaustive.
Par ailleurs, les solvants d'extraction cités ci-dessus ne sont pas limitatifs et peuvent être choisis parmi l'eau, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine, le polyéthylène glycol, les éthers méthyliques ou éthyliques des diglycols, les polyols cycliques, les diglycols éthoxylés ou propoxylés, les alcools (méthanol, propanol, butanol), ou tout mélange de ces solvants.Furthermore, the extraction solvents mentioned above are not limiting and can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, polyols cyclic, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.
L'analyse par chromatographie liquide haute pression (HPLC) de l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri révèle la présence de différents composés de type glycoside pseudojujubojenine et, plus particulièrement de Bacosides A et B.Analysis by high pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) of the extract of Bacopa monnieri reveals the presence of various compounds of the glycoside pseudojujubojenine type, and more particularly of Bacosides A and B.
Bien qu'il ne soit pas limitatif, l'exemple suivant illustrera une utilisation possible de l'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Bacopa monnieri dans une composition cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique :Although it is not limiting, the following example will illustrate a possible use of the plant extract obtained from Bacopa monnieri in a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition:
Lait corporel Polysorbate 60 2,5Polysorbate 60 2.5 body milk
Acide oléique 0,9Oleic acid 0.9
Huile de lanoline 2,5Lanolin oil 2.5
Carbopol 940 0,3 3 Cire d'abeille 2,0Carbopol 940 0.3 3 Beeswax 2.0
Triéthanolamine 0,1Triethanolamine 0.1
Glycérine 5,0Glycerin 5.0
Extrait de Bacopa monnieri 3,0 Eau & conservateurs QSP 100gBacopa monnieri extract 3.0 Water & QSP preservatives 100g
Parmi les divers effets bénéfiques trouvés au cours du développement de l'extrait végétal de Bacopa monnieri décrit précédemment, trois tests d'efficacité seront mentionnés. Le premier qui est un test ex-vivo consiste à exposer une peau reconstituée à différents stress. La peau reconstituée, consiste en une couche dermique sur laquelle sont apposés de kératinocytes qui vont former un épiderme multicouches, différencié et semblable à la peau normale. Cette méthode est une méthode alternative de référence en Cosmétique et en Dermopharmacie puisqu'elle permet de tester des produits par une méthode in vitro mais dans les conditions très proches de Vin vivo. Au moyen de ce système, nous avons testé le pouvoir régénérant cellulaire (antistress et réparateur) après une agression chimique réalisée avec une solution de triéthanolamine àAmong the various beneficial effects found during the development of the plant extract of Bacopa monnieri described above, three efficacy tests will be mentioned. The first which is an ex-vivo test consists in exposing a reconstituted skin to different stresses. The reconstituted skin consists of a dermal layer on which are affixed keratinocytes which will form a multilayer epidermis, differentiated and similar to normal skin. This method is an alternative benchmark method in Cosmetics and Dermopharmacy since it allows products to be tested by an in vitro method but under conditions very close to vivo wine. Using this system, we tested the cell regenerating power (anti-stress and repair) after a chemical attack carried out with a triethanolamine solution at
30%. Le lait corporel a été testé en comparaison de la même composition réalisée sans extrait de Bacopa monnieri (lait placebo).30%. Body milk was tested in comparison with the same composition made without Bacopa monnieri extract (placebo milk).
Le test de régénération cellulaire consiste à appliquer une solution de triéthanolamine (30%), pendant 30 minutes, sur la peau équivalente puis, de la rincer plusieurs fois avec de l'eau déminéralisée. Les produits à tester sont alors appliqués pendant deux heures, laps de temps au bout duquel le nombre de cellules survivantes est mesuré au moyen du colorant fluorescent Hoechst 3348. Dans ces conditions, en présence du lait contenant l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri, il est possible de conclure qu'en présence de l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri, le nombre de cellules vivantes après l'agression chimique est supérieur d'environ 36% qu'en son absence.The cell regeneration test consists in applying a solution of triethanolamine (30%), for 30 minutes, to the equivalent skin and then rinsing it several times with demineralized water. The products to be tested are then applied for two hours, after which time the number of surviving cells is measured using the fluorescent dye Hoechst 3348. Under these conditions, in the presence of milk containing the extract of Bacopa monnieri, it is It is possible to conclude that in the presence of the extract of Bacopa monnieri, the number of living cells after chemical attack is approximately 36% higher than in its absence.
Le second test réalisé, connu sous le nom de "Stinging Test", est un test in vivo classiquement utilisé pour mettre en évidence des propriétés apaisantes au niveau cutané de produits cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques et peut être décrit comme suit. Une solution à 10% d'acide lactique dans du sérum physiologique est appliquée au niveau de chacun des deux sillons nasogéniens. Les sensations de picotements sont évaluées par le volontaire, immédiatement après l'application, au niveau des deux sillons, par un système de cotation bien défini (aucun picotement=0; légers≈l; modérés=2; importants=3). 4 Le lait corporel dont la composition a été donnée précédemment comme exemple d'utilisation, contenant 3 % d'extrait de Bacopa monnieri est appliqué tel quel, en une seule fois, dès l'apparition des picotements, du côté du nez préalablement choisi de manière randomisée par l'investigateur. Dans le même temps, l'autre coté reçoit le placebo (même composition si ce n'est l'absence d'extrait de Bacopa monnieri). L'intensité des picotements est relevée au cours des 5 minutes suivant l'application, au niveau de la zone ayant reçu le placebo ou l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri, selon le même système de cotation que celui déterminé pour l'évaluation de la réactivité initiale. La totalité de l'essai est réalisée dans une pièce climatisée, dans laquelle la température ambiante et l'hygrométrie sont maintenues constantes.The second test carried out, known as the "Stinging Test", is an in vivo test conventionally used to demonstrate soothing properties on the skin of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical products and can be described as follows. A 10% solution of lactic acid in physiological saline is applied to each of the two nasolabial folds. The tingling sensations are evaluated by the volunteer, immediately after application, at the level of the two furrows, by a well-defined rating system (no tingling = 0; slight≈l; moderate = 2; important = 3). 4 Body milk, the composition of which was given previously as an example of use, containing 3% of extract of Bacopa monnieri, is applied as it is, in one go, as soon as the tingling appears, on the side of the nose previously chosen from randomized by the investigator. At the same time, the other side receives the placebo (same composition except the absence of Bacopa monnieri extract). The intensity of the tingling is noted during the 5 minutes following the application, in the area having received the placebo or the extract of Bacopa monnieri, according to the same rating system as that determined for the evaluation of the reactivity. initial. The entire test is carried out in an air-conditioned room, in which the ambient temperature and the humidity are kept constant.
L'intensité moyenne des picotements est déterminée à chaque temps de l'essai, par le calcul de la moyenne arithmétique et de l'écart par rapport à la moyenne (SEM) des données individuelles obtenues sur l'ensemble des volontaires. L'analyse des résultats a porté sur les valeurs obtenues au niveau de la zone traitée avec le produit étudié, en comparaison des valeurs acquises au niveau de la zone témoin ayant reçu l'acide lactique seul avant l'application du produit étudié ("temps 0"), pour chacune des zones traitée et témoin.The average intensity of tingling is determined at each time of the test, by calculating the arithmetic mean and the deviation from the mean (SEM) of the individual data obtained on all the volunteers. The analysis of the results related to the values obtained in the area treated with the product studied, in comparison with the values acquired in the control area having received lactic acid alone before the application of the product studied ("time 0 "), for each of the treated and control zones.
Le test a été réalisé sur 20 volontaires, 15 femmes et de 5 hommes, âgés de 21 à 55 ans qui avaient tous la peau du visage définie comme étant "hypersensible", par la méthode du "Stinging Test".The test was carried out on 20 volunteers, 15 women and 5 men, aged 21 to 55 who all had facial skin defined as "hypersensitive", by the "Stinging Test" method.
L'analyse des résultats démontre que par rapport au placebo, le lait contenant l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri entraîne une diminution significative de l'intensité des picotements, et cela, dès les 5 premières secondes d'application et durant les 5 minutes que dure l'essai. Le lait corporel contenant l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri démontre donc clairement, au niveau cutané, un puissant effet apaisant vis-à-vis des picotements ressentis par les volontaires à la suite de l'agression chimique. Il est à noter que dans les mêmes conditions expérimentales, le lait corporel sans l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri (lait placebo) présente les mêmes scores que ceux observés habituellement sur des zones non traitées, ce qui démontre bien que c'est seulement à l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri précédemment décrit dans ce brevet que l'on peut attribuer l'effet bénéfique observé.Analysis of the results shows that compared to placebo, milk containing Bacopa monnieri extract causes a significant reduction in the intensity of tingling, and this, from the first 5 seconds of application and during the 5 minutes that lasts the test. The body milk containing the extract of Bacopa monnieri therefore clearly demonstrates, at the cutaneous level, a powerful soothing effect vis-à-vis the tingling sensations felt by the volunteers following the chemical attack. It should be noted that under the same experimental conditions, body milk without the extract of Bacopa monnieri (placebo milk) has the same scores as those usually observed in untreated areas, which clearly shows that it is only at Bacopa monnieri extract previously described in this patent can be attributed to the beneficial effect observed.
Un troisième exemple va démontrer, au moyen d'une étude in vitro, une autre activité de l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri qui consiste à stimuler la libération des acides gras et du glycérol à partir des triglycérides contenus dans les adipocytes. 5 Des adipocytes humains (obtenus à partir de morceaux de peau prélevés lors de chirurgie plastique) sont mis en suspension dans un milieu de survie. Le métabolisme lipolytique de base est suivi par le dosage de glycérol et d'acides gras libérés dans le temps.A third example will demonstrate, by means of an in vitro study, another activity of the extract of Bacopa monnieri which consists in stimulating the release of fatty acids and glycerol from the triglycerides contained in the adipocytes. 5 Human adipocytes (obtained from pieces of skin removed during plastic surgery) are suspended in a survival medium. The basic lipolytic metabolism is followed by the dosage of glycerol and fatty acids released over time.
On ajoute ensuite différentes concentrations d'extraits préparés selon le procédé décrit précédemment ou un procédé similaire ; après un temps d'incubation plus ou moins long, on constate l'augmentation du métabolisme lipolytique par une augmentation de la quantité de glycérol et d'acides gras libérés dans le milieu. Un témoin positif de stimulation est constitué par la théophylline.Then added different concentrations of extracts prepared according to the method described above or a similar method; after a more or less long incubation time, there is an increase in lipolytic metabolism by an increase in the amount of glycerol and of fatty acids released in the medium. A positive stimulation control consists of theophylline.
Les résultats obtenus sont les suivants : Augmentation du remariage de glycérol par rapport à la réponse témoin obtenue en présence du seul véhicule de l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri (placebo): Extrait de Bacopa monnieri à 5 % 167 % Théophylline 87 %The results obtained are as follows: Increase in the remarriage of glycerol compared to the control response obtained in the presence of the only vehicle of the extract of Bacopa monnieri (placebo): Bacopa monnieri extract at 5% 167% Theophylline 87%
Ces exemples ne sont pas limitatifs. Selon le type de procédé d'extraction employé, la quantité de plante mise en jeu, la concentration d'extrait utilisée dans le milieu cellulaire, l'activité lipolytique peut varier de +10 à +1550%. Il s'avère que l'addition de caféine, de théophylline ou d'autres dérivés de xanthine potentialisent encore l'activité lipolytique. En même temps, on constate que ces extraits possèdent une activité in vivo (application topique) non seulement amincissante (mise en évidence par échographie aux ultrasons dans une étude clinique sur 20 personnes), mais également raffermissante. L'étude au CutomètreR These examples are not limitative. Depending on the type of extraction process used, the amount of plant involved, the concentration of extract used in the cell medium, the lipolytic activity can vary from +10 to + 1550%. It turns out that the addition of caffeine, theophylline or other xanthine derivatives further potentiate lipolytic activity. At the same time, we note that these extracts have an in vivo activity (topical application) not only slimming (demonstrated by ultrasound ultrasound in a clinical study on 20 people), but also firming. Cutometer R study
(Courage et Khazaka) permet de mesurer l'élasticité et la tonicité de la peau, d'où l'on peut déduire le paramètre "fermeté". On observe une augmentation significative de la fermeté de la peau à la suite d'un traitement prolongé avec les extraits de cette plante. Les effets décrits ci-dessus étant donnés à titre d'exemple, il est possible de mentionner, sans que la liste suivante soit exhaustive, d'autres effets bénéfiques de l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri sur les conséquences cutanées néfastes induites par toutes situations de stress, comme, par exemple, des propriétés apaisantes, calmantes, relaxantes, hydratantes, régénérantes, régulatrices de la microcirculation et de la respiration cellulaire; propriétés qui sont nécessaires pour obtenir des effets anti-vieillissement, antiride, anti-inflammatoire, amincissant, sur le cuir chevelu (antipelliculaire et ou anti chute de cheveux), sur la peau acnéique et donc des effets qui prolongent la souplesse et la fonction protectrice de la peau. Les compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques contenant un extrait de Bacopa monnieri sont donc avantageusement utilisées telles quelles ou pour la préparation de 6 médicaments pour les soins de la peau, y compris contre les effets cutanés du stress, pour apaiser, calmer, relaxer, hydrater, régénérer la peau, pour réguler la microcirculation et la respiration cellulaire, pour prévenir le vieillissement de la peau et du cuir chevelu, pour obtenir des effets, amincissants, antirides et anti-acné, anti-inflammatoires, antipelliculaire et ou anti- chute de cheveux.(Courage and Khazaka) allows to measure the elasticity and the tone of the skin, from which we can deduce the parameter "firmness". There is a significant increase in the firmness of the skin following prolonged treatment with the extracts of this plant. The effects described above being given by way of example, it is possible to mention, without the following list being exhaustive, other beneficial effects of the extract of Bacopa monnieri on the harmful skin consequences induced by all situations of stress, such as, for example, soothing, calming, relaxing, hydrating, regenerating properties, regulating microcirculation and cellular respiration; properties which are necessary to obtain anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, slimming effects, on the scalp (anti-dandruff and or anti hair loss), on acne skin and therefore effects which prolong the suppleness and the protective function skin. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Bacopa monnieri are therefore advantageously used as such or for the preparation of 6 medicines for skin care, including against the skin effects of stress, to soothe, calm, relax, hydrate, regenerate the skin, to regulate microcirculation and cellular respiration, to prevent aging of the skin and leather hair, to obtain effects, slimming, anti-wrinkle and anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, anti-dandruff and or anti-hair loss.
L'extrait végétal de Bacopa monnieri est utilisé soit sous forme liquide, soit sous forme sèche obtenue par les techniques classiques de précipitation, de séchage, d'évaporation, d'atomisation ou de lyophilisationThe plant extract of Bacopa monnieri is used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization
L'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Bacopa précédemment décrit peut être utilisé dans toute forme galénique employée en Cosmétique ou Dermopharmacie: émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, pommades, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays, huiles corporelles, sans que cette liste soit limitative.The plant extract obtained from Bacopa previously described can be used in any dosage form used in Cosmetics or Dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils, without this list being exhaustive.
Il est possible d'incorporer l'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Bacopa précédemment décrit, dans des vecteurs cosmétiques tels que les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro- et nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules; de l'absorber sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux.It is possible to incorporate the plant extract obtained from Bacopa previously described, in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules; absorb it on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.
L'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Bacopa précédemment décrit peut être combiné dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique: lipides d'extraction et/ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits d'autres plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins.The plant extract obtained from Bacopa previously described can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, hydro- active ingredients. or fat-soluble, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
Les concentrations de l'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Bacopa précédemment décrit peuvent varier entre 0,01% et 40% (p/p), préférentiellement entre 0.5 % et 7 % en poids,-dans le produit fini. The concentrations of the plant extract obtained from Bacopa previously described can vary between 0.01% and 40% (w / w), preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight, in the finished product.

Claims

7 REVENDICATIONS 7 CLAIMS
1. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques, caractérisées en ce qu'elles contiennent un extrait végétal de Bacopa monnieri (L.).1. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions, characterized in that they contain a plant extract of Bacopa monnieri (L.).
2. Obtention de l'extrait selon la revendication 1 caractérisée en ce que les solvants d'extraction utilisés sont choisis parmi l'eau, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine, le polyéthylène glycol, les éthers méthyliques ou éthyliques des diglycols, les polyols cycliques, les diglycols éthoxylés ou propoxylés, les alcools (méthanol, propanol, butanol), ou tout mélange de ces solvants.2. Obtaining the extract according to claim 1 characterized in that the extraction solvents used are chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl diglycol ethers , cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.
3. Obtention de l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri selon les revendications 1 à 2 caractérisée en ce que l'extraction est d'abord réalisée, pendant 48 à température ambiante, dans un rapport de 100 grammes de Bacopa monnieri pour 1.0 litre d'éthanol, puis, en ce que, après séchage, l'extrait sec est repris dans de l'eau.3. Obtaining the extract of Bacopa monnieri according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that the extraction is first carried out, for 48 at room temperature, in a ratio of 100 grams of Bacopa monnieri per 1.0 liter of ethanol , then, in that, after drying, the dry extract is taken up in water.
4. Obtention de l'extrait de Bacopa monnieri selon les revendications 1 à 2 caractérisée en ce que l'extraction réalisée à partir de la plante Bacopa est remplacée par des techniques de macération ou par d'autres procédés comme, par exemple, la simple décoction, la lixiviation, l'extraction sous reflux, l'extraction au moyen d'ultrasons ou de micro-ondes ou enfin des techniques à contre courant.4. Obtaining the extract of Bacopa monnieri according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that the extraction carried out from the Bacopa plant is replaced by maceration techniques or by other processes such as, for example, the simple decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction using ultrasound or microwaves or finally countercurrent techniques.
5 Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait est utilisé soit sous forme liquide, soit sous forme sèche obtenue par les techniques classiques de précipitation, de séchage, d 'évaporation, d'atomisation ou de lyophilisation.5 Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract is used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.
6. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5 caractérisées en ce que la concentration de l'extrait est comprise entre 0,01% et 40% (p/p), préférentiellement entre 0.5 % et 7 % en poids, dans le produit fini.6. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the concentration of the extract is between 0.01% and 40% (w / w), preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight, in the finished product.
7. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait de Bacopa est utilisé dans toute forme galénique employée en cosmétique ou dermopharmacie: émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, pommades, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays, huiles corporelles.7. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the Bacopa extract is used in any galenic form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils.
8. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait est incorporé dans des vecteurs cosmétiques comme les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro- et nanoparticules 8 ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules, ou absorbé sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux.8. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the extract is incorporated in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles 8 as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, or absorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.
9. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait est combiné dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique: lipides d'extraction et/ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits d'autres plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins.9. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the extract is combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling polymers and viscosants, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or liposoluble active ingredients, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
10. Composition cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique, selon la revendication 1 ou l'une des revendications 5 à 9 pour les soins de la peau, y compris contre les effets cutanés du stress, pour apaiser, calmer, relaxer, hydrater, régénérer la peau, pour réguler la microcirculation et la respiration cellulaire, pour prévenir le vieillissement de la peau et du cuir chevelu, pour obtenir des effets, amincissants, antirides et anti-acné, anti-inflammatoires, antipelliculaire et ou anti-chute de cheveux. 10. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 1 or one of claims 5 to 9 for skin care, including against the cutaneous effects of stress, to soothe, calm, relax, hydrate, regenerate the skin, to regulate microcirculation and cellular respiration, to prevent aging of the skin and scalp, to obtain effects, slimming, anti-wrinkle and anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, anti-dandruff and or anti-hair loss.
11. Utilisation d'une composition cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique, selon la revendication 1 ou l'une des revendications 5 à 9 pour la préparation d'un médicament pour les soins de la peau, y compris contre les effets cutanés du stress, pour apaiser, calmer, relaxer, hydrater, régénérer la peau, pour réguler la microcirculation et la respiration cellulaire, pour prévenir le vieillissement de la peau et du cuir chevelu, pour obtenir des effets, amincissants, antirides et anti-acné, anti-inflammatoires, antipelliculaire et ou anti-chute de cheveux. 11. Use of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 1 or one of claims 5 to 9 for the preparation of a medicament for skin care, including against the cutaneous effects of stress, for soothing, calm, relax, hydrate, regenerate the skin, to regulate microcirculation and cellular respiration, to prevent aging of the skin and scalp, to obtain effects, slimming, anti-wrinkle and anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, anti-dandruff and or anti hair loss.
PCT/FR1999/000245 1998-02-12 1999-02-04 Composition for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from bacopa monnieri (l.) WO1999040897A1 (en)

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WO2002003996A1 (en) * 2000-07-12 2002-01-17 RAJKUMAR, Sujatha Use of dammarane-type tritepenoid saporins
WO2004060267A2 (en) * 2003-01-03 2004-07-22 Ganga Raju Gokaraju A process for producing enriched fractions containing up to 100% of bacoside a and bacoside b
WO2004060267A3 (en) * 2003-01-03 2004-11-04 Ganga Raju Gokaraju A process for producing enriched fractions containing up to 100% of bacoside a and bacoside b
US6974799B2 (en) 2003-11-17 2005-12-13 Sederma S.A.S. Compositions containing mixtures of tetrapeptides and tripeptides
US8846019B2 (en) 2005-09-06 2014-09-30 Sederma Use of protoberberines as an active substance regulating the pilosebaceous unit
US8404648B2 (en) 2006-02-16 2013-03-26 Sederma Polypeptides KXK and their use
EP2510982A1 (en) 2006-05-05 2012-10-17 Sederma Cosmetic compositions comprising at least one peptide with at least one immobilized aromatic cycle
WO2007142096A1 (en) * 2006-06-02 2007-12-13 Organo Corporation Inhibitor of inducible nitric oxide synthase, beverage/food, and neutraceutical food
WO2010067327A1 (en) 2008-12-11 2010-06-17 Sederma Cosmetic composition containing acetylated oligoglucuronans
US8697656B2 (en) 2009-01-16 2014-04-15 Sederma Compounds, in particular peptides, compositions comprising them and cosmetic and dermo-pharmaceutical uses
WO2010082176A2 (en) 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Sederma Cosmetic composition containing kxk type peptides and uses
WO2010082175A2 (en) 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Sederma New compounds, in particular peptides, compositions comprising them and cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical uses
WO2010082177A2 (en) 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Sederma New compounds, in particular peptides, compositions comprising them and cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical uses
EP3744729A1 (en) 2009-01-16 2020-12-02 Sederma Compounds, in particular peptides, compositions comprising them and cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical uses
US9050477B2 (en) 2009-04-17 2015-06-09 Sederma Cosmetic compositions comprising oridonin and new cosmetic uses
WO2010136965A2 (en) 2009-05-26 2010-12-02 Sederma Cosmetic use of tyr-arg dipeptide to combat cutaneous sa
WO2011086532A1 (en) 2010-01-18 2011-07-21 Sederma New lipo-phosphated or lipo-sulphated compound, compositions comprising it and topical uses thereof
WO2011125039A2 (en) 2010-04-08 2011-10-13 Sederma Cosmetic use of geranylgeranyl-2-propanol
WO2011125040A2 (en) 2010-04-08 2011-10-13 Sederma New polyterpene type compounds, compositions containing them and topical uses thereof
US9126060B2 (en) 2010-04-08 2015-09-08 Sederma Cosmetic use of geranylgeranyl-2-propanol
CN110101625A (en) * 2019-06-14 2019-08-09 芳香世家化妆品(广州)有限公司 A kind of nutrition restorative facial cream

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