WO2021001332A1

WO2021001332A1 - Method for obtaining a botanical thermal infusion

Info

Publication number: WO2021001332A1
Application number: PCT/EP2020/068326
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sabine HUCTEAU-LACOMBLEZ; Valérie CAUCHE
Original assignee: Laboratoires Léa
Priority date: 2019-07-01
Filing date: 2020-06-30
Publication date: 2021-01-07
Also published as: FR3098119A1; FR3098119B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for obtaining an extract from a part of a wet plant. The invention is characterised in that it comprises the following steps that involve: a) collecting, from their natural environment, the chosen part chosen from the flowers, flowering tops, aerial parts, leaves, stems, buds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, bark, seeds, fruit, stones, berries, sap, resin, latex and thallus of the wet plant, alone or in combination, preferably the flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts of the wet plant; b) infusing the part of the wet plant in at least one bath essentially comprising a thermal water, at a temperature of between 35 and 50°C for a maximum of 24 hours, in such a way as to obtain a botanical thermal infusion; and c) filtering the botanical thermal infusion preferably up to 0.2 µm so as to eliminate the part of the wet plant and obtain a decontaminated botanical thermal infusion. The invention also relates to an extract likely to be obtained by the method according to the invention, to a cosmetic composition comprising such an extract, and to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for combatting the appearance of signs of skin ageing and improving care of the skin, mucous membranes and keratinous appendages.

Description

PROCESS FOR OBTAINING A BOTANICAL THERMAL INFUSION

Technical area

The present invention relates to a process for obtaining an aqueous extract of wet plants, the extracts thus obtained, the cosmetic compositions comprising such extracts and their uses.

[0002] Plant extraction is a process aimed at extracting certain constituents present in plants. It is a solid / liquid separation operation: a solid body (the plant) is brought into contact with a fluid (the solvent). The compounds of plant interest are then solubilized and contained in the solvent.

[0003] Plants used by humans are used in particular in medicine, more particularly in herbal medicine, or in cosmetics.

[0004] Plant extracts can commonly be obtained by aqueous extraction or alcoholic fermentation e † according to processes such as infusion, maceration, decoction or hydrodistillation.

[0005] To obtain an aqueous extract, water is used as a solvent. The general scheme of the solid / liquid extraction to obtain an aqueous extract is available in different ways, for example:

- in maceration, the contact phase is maintained at room temperature;

- in the decoction or reflux, the contact phase is maintained at the boiling point of the solvent;

- In infusion, conventionally, the boiling solvent is poured onto the solid and then allowed to cool for a given time;

- in leaching or percolation, the solvent passes through the biomass.

[0006] It is also known to combine these implementations with each other or with other processes such as distillation, steam stripping, rectification, etc., to use various solvents in succession or as a mixture. , or to assist with extraction assistance such as ultrafiltration, reverse osmosis, high pressures (002 supercritical), microwaves, ultrasound, etc. [0007] Numerous factors influence the quality of a plant extract, and their combinations make it possible to obtain an almost infinite number of different extracts.

[0008] The raw material is one of the most important parameters but also the most difficult to control. Indeed, the same variety of plants is often of variable quality depending on climatic conditions, cultivation conditions, geographical origin ... It is therefore all the more complex to guarantee the constant quality of the extracts.

[0009] The specificity and yield of the extractions also depend on intrinsic parameters such as the quality of the solvent, the choice of equipment and the properties related to the processes.

Prior art

[0010] Document FR3023482 is known which describes an extract of umbellifera obtained from leaves, roots and / or seeds of an umbellifer such as angelica (Angelica archangelica L), by means of at least one step of cold maceration at a temperature of between 2 and 15 ° C in water alone, for example Jonzac thermal water, or mixed with glycerin, and a filtration step to recover the extract of umbelliferous, either directly in the case where the water is mixed with the glycerin, or after mixing the aqueous extract filtered with glycerin in the case where the water is alone. Such an extract comprises in particular an effective concentration of polyphenols including umbelliferone, which are antioxidants and anti-free radicals which act in particular in the prevention of skin aging and in the protection of the skin.

[001 1] By way of example, we can also cite the document

FR2945213 which discloses an extract obtained from flowering aerial parts of maritime silene (Maritime silene /) previously dried, then ground, brought into contact, with stirring, with a water / ethanol mixture having a water / ethanol mass ratio of 30/70 , at a temperature of 50 ° C for 2 hours. The hydroalcoholic extract thus obtained (crude extract) is then filtered and dried in the form of a powder comprising water-soluble and hydrophilic compounds initially present in the plant. It is used in particular to fight against the effects on the dermis of skin aging. [0012] Document FR3030273 describes a composition for moisturizing and soothing the skin, effectively combating oxidation, for preventing and treating signs of endogenous and / or exogenous aging, comprising a lotus extract, an extract of witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) and zinc or a salt thereof. The lotus extract used is obtained by extracting lotus flowers with distilled water after maceration for 5 hours at a temperature of 50 ° C.

[0013] Document FR2999927 describes a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of iris pallida rhizomes, to stimulate epidermal cell renewal, skin microcirculation, desquamation, skin defenses, to moisturize the skin e † to fight against aging . The aqueous extraction is carried out by the following process: the rhizomes are washed, crushed into chips of about 2 mm and dried; then the rhizomes are placed in an aqueous solution at a ratio of 10% by weight at a temperature of 50 ° C. for 30 minutes under ultrasound without stirring; after extraction, the solution was filtered through a filter having pores with a diameter of 0.2 µm; e † the filtered aqueous solution is then diluted to 100% in glycerin.

Finally, the document US201610666 describes a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Salvia haenkei, to fight against signs of old age. Salvia haenkei extract can be obtained by steam distillation (temperature 100 ° C) of leaves, flowers or stems with mineral water or thermal water.

Technical problem

[0015] In general, it remains necessary to search for new compositions which have antioxidant, anti-free radical and anti-aging properties which have good cosmetic activity. There is therefore a need to develop new alternative processes for obtaining plant extracts exhibiting improved plant properties for promoting skin care.

Considering the above, a problem which the invention proposes to solve is to implement a process for obtaining an extract from a part of a wet plant, advantageously from of flowers and / or flowering tops and / or aerial parts, by a solvent essentially aqueous, which respects the fundamental principles of ecological and organic cosmetics. Such a process is easy to carry out, has good yields, and the extracts thus obtained have an improved activity compared to those obtained by cold maceration. Benefits provided

The method according to the invention offers in particular the following advantages over the prior art:

- the process makes it possible to obtain an extract from humid and fragile plants such as flowering tops and / or aerial parts;

- the process is easy to implement, and can thus advantageously be carried out with rudimentary equipment directly on the harvest site;

- the process is economical in terms of energy and financial expenditure;

- the process uses an essentially aqueous solvent;

- the process makes it possible to obtain a decontaminated sterilized extract which can be used as such in cosmetics;

- the process allows the production of an extract having improved activity compared to those obtained by cold or hot extraction.

Technical solution

[0018] The first subject of the invention is therefore a process for obtaining an extract from a part of a wet plant comprising the following steps according to which:

a) said part chosen from among flowers, flowering tops, aerial parts, leaves, stems, buds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, bark, seeds, fruits, stones, berries, sap, resin, latex, thallus in their natural environment wet plant dudi †, taken alone or in combination, preferably flowers, flowered tops and / or aerial parts of wet plant dudi †;

b) the part of the humid plant is infused in at least one bath essentially comprising thermal water, at a temperature of between 35 ° and 50 ° C. for a maximum of 24 hours, so as to obtain a botanical thermal infusion; e †

c) the botanical thermal infusion is preferentially filtered down to 0.2 m so as to eliminate the part of the wet plant e † to obtain a decontaminated botanical thermal infusion. A second subject of the invention is also an extract of a part of a wet plant obtainable by the method according to the invention, in particular an extract obtained from flowers, flowering tops ef / or aerial parts of a humid plant chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, taken alone or in combination.

[0020] A third subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of an extract capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention, and a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

Finally, the invention has for fourth and last object, the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, to fight against the appearance of the signs of cutaneous aging e † to improve the care of the skin, the mucous membranes e † of integuments.

Brief description of the drawings

The invention e † the advantages which result therefrom will be better understood on reading the description e † of the non-limiting embodiments which follow, with regard to the appended figures in which:

[0023] Figure 1 shows the comparison of the moisturizing activity from explants of human skin ex vivo between Rocheforf thermal water and a water lily (Nuphar lufea) floral thermal water according to the invention by measuring the labeling of aquaporin-3 (AQP3).

[0024] Figure 2 shows the resulta † of evaluation of a panel after an application of floral thermal water from forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica) according to the invention.

[0025] Figure 3 shows the result of evaluation of a panel after 56 days of application of floral thermal water from forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica) according to the invention.

Description of embodiments

The invention relates to a new process for obtaining an aqueous extract of a part of a wet plant.

[0027] A humid plant is a living organism pheasant † part of the plant kingdom which develops naturally in a humid environment, by water supply directly to the foot (marsh, pond, ...) or by rain (under- woods, wet meadows ...). It conventionally comprises at least 60% water in weight of its total weight, preferably about 75% water, depending on the stage of its development.

In a first step of the method according to the invention (step a), said part is taken from their natural environment, chosen from among flowers, flowering tops, aerial parts, leaves, stems, buds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, bark , seeds, fruits, stones, berries, sap, resin, latex, thallus of said wet plant, taken alone or in combination, preferably flowers, flowering tops and / or aerial parts of said wet plant.

[0029] By natural environment is meant the natural environment or a cultivation area exhibiting conditions similar to those of the natural environment in which the plant grows.

[0030] As an illustrative example, the wet plant is preferably chosen from water lily, for example Nuphar lutea, forget-me-not for example Myosotis sylvatica, iris for example Iris pseudacorus, angelica for example Angelica archangelica, l ' evening primrose for example Oenothera laciniafa, the queen of the meadows for example Filipendula ulmaria, the violet for example Viola odorata, the aquatic mint for example Mentha aquatica, the watercress for example Nasturtium officinale, the reed for example Phragmites commuais, the papyrus for example Cyperus papyrus, water plantain for example Alisma plantago, water hyacinth for example Eichhornia crassipes, sundew for example Drosera rotundifolia, elderflower for example Sambucus nigra, knotweed water pepper for example Persicaria hydropiper, lotus for example Lotus castellanus, rice for example Oriza sativa, river millet for example Echinochloa oryzoides, horsetail for example Equisetum fluviatil e, water concern for example Caltha palustris, orchis for example Orchis palustris, the orchid for example Anacamptis palustris, the strain † of the marshes for example Eleochoris palustris, fireweed for example Epilobium roseum, gentian for example Gentiana angustifolium, the swamp star for example Carex heleonastes, taken alone or in combination during the infusion.

[0031] The wet plant is more preferably chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, even more preferably Nuphar lutea, Myosotis sylvatica, Iris pseudacorus or Angelica archangelica, taken alone or in combination during the infusion. By way of illustrative example of the invention, the water lily (Nuphar lufea) is picked by hand at the time of flowering (June) in rivers, ponds or marshes.

[0033] According to another illustrative example of the invention, forget-me-not (Myosotis sylva tica) is hand-picked at the time of flowering (May) in the undergrowth, wet meadows or marshes.

[0034] According to another illustrative example of the invention, the iris (Iris pseudacorus) is picked by hand at the time of flowering (May-June) along or in watercourses, ditches or wet meadows .

[0035] According to another illustrative example of the invention, the angelica

(Angelica archangelica) is cultivated and cut at flowering time (May-June) especially in fields, marshes or wet meadows and along streams.

The part of the wet plant can be used fresh, frozen, or dried during its infusion.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the part of the wet plant is dried, before or after its storage at room temperature for a maximum period of 24 months, preferably 12 months while waiting for the next harvest, before its infusion.

[0038] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the part of the wet plant, preferably the flowers, flowering tops and / or aerial parts, is used fresh during its infusion, so as to avoid degradation.

[0039] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the flowers, flowering tops and / or fresh aerial parts of the wet plant are infused within a maximum of 12 hours, advantageously 4 hours, after their removal.

[0040] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the flowers, flowering tops and / or aerial parts, preferably fresh, of the humid plant are stored in positive cold and / or in negative cold within a maximum period of 24 months, preferably 12 months while waiting for the next harvest, e † thus used during its infusion.

The moist plant part, taken alone or in combination, is then infused as needed substantially immediately after its sampling, or after storage at room temperature, in positive cold and / or negative cold.

[0042] The method according to the invention may also further comprise a step of grinding the part of the wet plant before its infusion.

Then, according to the process according to the invention (step b), the part of the wet plant is infused in at least one bath essentially comprising thermal water, at a temperature of between 35 ° C e † 50 ° C, preferably between 40 ° C and 44 ° C, even more preferably of the order of 42 ° C, for a maximum of 24 hours, so as to obtain a botanical thermal infusion.

By bath essentially comprising thermal water is meant a bath mainly comprising thermal water as solvent; preferably, the bath only comprises thermal water as solvent: in this case, the solvent consists of thermal water.

The duration of the infusion step according to the invention can be up to 24 hours, for example 12 hours, preferably from ten minutes to about two hours, e † will have an influence on the profile of the extract obtained.

Preferably, said part of the moist plant is infused at a temperature of around 42 ° C for ten minutes to about two hours.

Advantageously, the temperature e † the duration of the infusion according to the invention has been optimized, the temperature e † time necessary e † sufficient to extract the molecules of interest according to the invention.

The thermal water preferably used as solvent es † a mixed sulphated polymetallic thermal water of calcium, sodium chloride, magnesia, hypermineralized with a mineral content of at least 5000 mg / L, for example of the order of 6000 mg / L, comprising mainly calcium e † magnesium, as well as silicon, strontium, boron, lithium e † manganese, hypotonic, practically isotonic. The thermal water used therefore has a totally different composition from distilled water or demineralized water, in particular free of minerals. Thermal water more preferably used as solvent es † Rochefor thermal water †.

Rochefor † es † thermal water naturally present at a temperature of 42 ° C, hypermineralized with a mineral content of 5800 mg / l to 6200 mg / L. It essentially comprises 500 to 600 mg / L of calcium, 50 to 150 mg / L of magnesium, 1 7 to 21 mg / L of silicon, 10 to 15 mg / L of strontium, 2 to 3 mg / L of boron, 1 at 2 mg / L of lithium and 0.01 to 0, 1 mg / L of manganese.

It exhibits low cytotoxicity.

[0052] During the infusion, the solid part of the moist plant is bathed in thermal water and can be gently brewed.

The infusion is preferably carried out with addition of part of the wet plant in one or more times for a final ratio by weight / plant weight / thermal water of 1: 1 to 1: 50, more preferably of the order of 1: 2 to 1: 40, for example 1: 5, 1: 10, 1: 15, 1: 20, 1: 25, 1: 30, or 1: 35, more preferably of the order of 1: 9.

We can do for example a single bath with one or more additional add (s) of thermal water, or several baths, for a final ratio in weight / vegetable weight / thermal water of 1: 1 at 1:50, preferably of the order of 1: 2 to 1:40, more preferably of the order of 1: 9.

For example, several passes of parts of the plant are advantageously carried out in the same bath of thermal water to saturate it, for example up to 5 passes, which makes it possible to concentrate the botanical thermal infusion.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the infusion is carried out by circulating solvent in a closed circuit, that is to say that the solvent is circulated on the part of the plant. so as to create movement in the extractor, e † avoid solvent saturation zones on the periphery of the plant part. Stirring thus provides less saturated solvent which will extract in turn.

Alternatively, we can carry out infusions in several concomitant or successive baths, depending on the amount of part of the plant to be treated. Next, according to the method according to the invention, the botanical thermal infusion is filtered (step c) preferably up to 0.2 m so as to remove the part of the wet plant and obtain a deconfaminated botanical thermal infusion.

This filtration step according to the invention is important because it makes it possible to obtain a decontaminated extract which can be used as such and which can be kept for several weeks to several months, for example 12 months, without losing the properties of the molecules of interest.

[0060] The extracts obtained according to the invention do not induce any irritation reaction and have very good skin compatibility and low cytotoxicity.

[0061] Also, according to another aspect, the invention relates to an extract capable of being obtained by the method according to the invention.

Such extracts are very difficult to characterize as such because they vary, for the same species, depending on various factors such as the flowers, flowering tops and / or aerial parts used, the place of harvest, or even the year of harvest.

Preferably, the invention relates to an extract obtainable by the process according to the invention from flowers, flowering tops and / or aerial parts of a wet plant chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, taken alone or in combination.

[0064] The extract obtained according to the invention is an aqueous extract, more particularly an advantageously decontaminated botanical thermal infusion obtained according to the process according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for the extracts of water lily, forget-me-not and iris, the extract obtained does not contain substantially any furocoumarins (with a total of less than 10 ppm) which are agents. toxic photosensitive.

[0066] Such a botanical thermal infusion according to the invention is particularly rich in total sugars after hydrolysis, of the order of 0.2 g / L to 2 g / L e † in polyphenols.

According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of an extract obtainable according to the invention, e † a cosmetically acceptable excipient. A cosmetically acceptable excipient denotes a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, in particular cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a benefit / ratio ratio. reasonable risk.

By way of nonlimiting examples of a cosmetically acceptable excipient, the composition may include appropriate formulation excipients, such as waters, colorants, sweeteners, flavorings, opacifiers, perfumes, bulking agents, gelling agents, † ex † uran † s, binders, chelators, oils, esters, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, foamers, and / or preservatives.

[0070] When preservatives are added to the botanical thermal infusion according to the invention, we then speak of floral or botanical thermal water according to the invention.

By effective amount is meant the minimum amount which is necessary to obtain the activity of the botanical thermal infusion according to the invention.

The extract is preferably present in the composition at a concentration of 0.001% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, more preferably from 0.2% to 100%.

The composition according to the invention is capable of optionally comprising another active element chosen from an anti-aging agent, a moisturizing agent, a soothing agent, a purifying agent, a protective agent or a mixture of these agents.

By way of nonlimiting examples of other active element according to the invention, we can mention sugars such as ribose as anti-aging agents, hyaluronic acid, olive squalane, aloe. vera or a lamellar gel containing Jonzac thermal water (FR2968553) as moisturizing agents, bisabolol, phytosphingosine or a chamomile extract as soothing agents, witch hazel extract or zinc PCA as purifying agents, vitamin E or carrot oil as a protective agent.

The composition according to the invention is formulated to be applied topically to the skin, mucous membranes and integuments. The skin more particularly designates the skin of the face, in particular the contour of the eyes and the mouth, the nose, the forehead, the neck, the hands, as well as the skin of the whole of the rest of the body.

The appendages designate substances naturally present in the human organism or the animal organism rich in keratin, e † more particularly the hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.

The composition can be more or less fluid and can be presented in all the galenic forms suitable for use for topical application to the skin, the mucous membranes and integuments, for example in the form of lai †, gel, cream, lotion, emulsion, serum, ointment, mask, scrub, suspension, soap, treatment water, micellar water, complexion product, makeup, shower product, oral hygiene product, intimate hygiene product.

According to a last aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, to fight against the appearance of signs of skin aging e † improve the care of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments, e † more particularly to hydrate, cleanse and / or soothe the skin.

The cutaneous signs of fatigue, stress and premature aging according to the invention more particularly designate, but are not limited to, all the manifestations visible on the skin caused by fatigue and stress such as wrinkles, fine lines, cracks, bags under the eyes, dark circles, sagging skin tissue e † subcutaneous, loss of skin elasticity e † atony, loss of firmness e † tone, e † l ' dermal atrophy.

The composition according to the invention improves the hydration of the epidermis so as to correct skin dryness e † bring elasticity and tone to the skin so as to restore all its radiance to it. no longer have withered, soft, thinned, dull skin. By increasing the hydration of the epidermis, this can strengthen the skin's barrier function and allow it to fight more effectively against all types of external aggressions.

By external aggressions is meant the aggressions that the environment can produce. By way of nonlimiting examples, mention may be made of attacks such as pollution, UV radiation, in particular UVB, linked for example to overexposure to the sun, products of an irritant nature such as as surfactants, preservatives or perfumes, mechanical attacks such as abrasions, shaving or hair removal.

By pollution is meant both “external” pollution due for example to diesel particles, ozone or heavy metals, and “internal” pollution which may be due in particular to the emissions of paint solvents. , glues, or wallpaper (such as toluene, styrene, xylene or benzaldehyde), or even cigarette smoke.

Examples

The present invention will now be illustrated by means of the following examples:

[0085] Example 1: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention

- Collection of plants in their natural environment manually and / or mechanically

- Grinding of fresh plants

- Infusion of fresh plants in Rochefor † thermal water at 42 ° C: plant used at around 10% (ratio by weight / plant weight / thermal water of 1: 9), for an extraction time of 2 hours

- Clarification by filtration

- Addition of preservatives

- Decontamination by filtration at 0.2 miti

[0086] Example 2: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention

- Storage in positive and / or negative cold for a maximum of 24 months

- Grinding of plants

- Infusion of plants in Rochefor † thermal water at 42 ° C: plant used at around 10% (ratio by weight / plant weight / thermal water of 1: 9), for an extraction time of 2 hours

- Clarification by filtration

- Addition of preservatives

- Decontamination by filtration 0.2 miti Example 3: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention

- Grinding of plants

- Storage at room temperature after drying for a maximum of 24 months

- Infusion of plants in Rocheforf thermal water at 42 ° C: plant used at around 10% (ratio by weight / vegetable weight / thermal water of 1: 9), for an exfracfion time of 2 hours

- Clarification by filtration

- Addition of preservatives

- Deconfaminafion by filtration 0.2 miti

[0088] Example 4: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention

- Storage at room temperature after drying for a maximum of 24 months

- Grinding of plants

- Clarification by filtration

- Addition of preservatives

- Deconfaminafion by filtration 0.2 miti

[0089] Example 5: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention

- Grinding of plants

- Clarification by filtration

- Deconfaminafion by filtration 0.2 miti - Addition of preservatives

[0090] Example 6: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention

- Grinding of plants

- Storage at room temperature (before or after drying), positive or negative cold for a maximum of 24 months

- Infusion of plants in Rochefort thermal water at 42 ° C: plant used at around 10% (ratio by weight / plant weight / thermal water of 1: 9), for an extraction time of 2 hours

- Clarification by filtration

- Deconfaminafion by filtration 0.2 miti

- Addition of preservatives

[0091] Example 7: Comparison of the moisturizing activity from ex vivo human skin explants between Rochefort thermal water (P I) and floral thermal water from Nymphea (Nuphar lutea) according to the invention

(obtained from the process described in Example 2, P2)

The aim of the study is to compare the moisturizing action of two products from ex vivo human skin explants.

The activity will be evaluated by:

- control of cell viability with particular attention paid to the stratum corneum;

- immunostaining of aquaporin-3 (AQP3).

On D0, D2, D5 e † D 7, the P I e † P2 products were applied topically, at a rate of 2 ml per explan † (2 mg / cm2) e † spread using a spatula.

The explants from the T lots were not processed except for the renewal of the medium.

Half of the medium was renewed (1 ml per well) on D2, D5 e † D7.

Results:

The measurement of the labeling of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) in the epidermis on all the batches is shown in Figure 1.

On D0, on the control batch T0, the labeling of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is weak to moderate in the epidermis. On D3, on the control batch TJ3, the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is fairly clear in the epidermis.

On D8, on the control batch TJ8, the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is moderate in the epidermis.

According to the experimental conditions described above and compared to the control batch T on D3 or D8, the effect of the products tested on the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) was measured and the following results were obtained:

On D3:

- the product P I induces a slight increase;

- the product P2 induces a fairly clear increase.

On D8:

- the product P I does not induce any modification;

- the product P2 does not induce any modification.

Water lily floral thermal water (P2) obtained according to the invention exhibits better hydrating activity, up to 3 days after its first application, than Rochefor thermal water † (PI), via the increase in aquaporin-3.

Example 8: DPPH test for an iris (Iris pseudacorus) floral thermal water according to the invention (obtained by the process described in Example 2)

2,2-Diphenyl-1 -picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) is a radical available commercially under nitrogen very stable, characterized by an intense purple red color. DPPH is used for its discoloration properties when reduced in the presence of a compound with antioxidant capacity. In this test †, the DPPH assay is used to determine whether a test product has an antioxidant effect by comparing it to a vitamin E analogue, Trolox. It is possible to quantify the reducing capacity of the test product which acts by hydrogen transfer and electron transfer by spectrophotometric measurement at 51 7 nm of the change in absorbance of the DPPH solution after reaction with a antioxidant compound.

The results obtained are expressed in relation to the protection exercised by Trolox, the benchmark antioxidant. A range of Trolox introduced in the test † allows the results to be expressed in mitioI of Trolox equivalent / L of product. Under the test conditions carried out, the iris floral thermal water according to the invention obtains a result of 78.45 ml of Trolox equivalent / L of product and thus exhibits high antioxidant capacities.

Example 9: DPPH test for a thermal floral water of angelica (Anaelica archanaelica) according to the invention [obtained from the method described in Example 3)

Under the conditions of the tests carried out, the angelica floral thermal water according to the invention obtained a result of 56.25 ml of Trolox equivalent / g of dry matter, and thus exhibits very high antioxidant capacities.

[0094] Example 10: Determination of the antimicrobial activity of a thermal floral water of angelica (Anaelica archanaelica) according to the invention [obtained from the method described in Example 3)

The aim of the study is to evaluate the anfimicrobial action of the product on Propionibacferium acnes.

Experimental condition:

- 20 ml of product are inoculated with 0.2 ml of a calibrated suspension of the germ to be tested.

- Shake and leave in contact for the required time: 30 minutes, 60 minutes, 120 minutes.

- Transfer 1 ml into a sterile tube containing 9 ml of EUGON LT100 Broth.

- Make the appropriate dilutions.

- Inoculate 1 ml of each dilution in a Petri dish

- Pour in PLATE COUNT AGAR medium, let solidify and incubate anaerobically for 3 to 5 days at 35 ° C +/- 2.5 ° C.

The results obtained are compiled in Table 1 below.

Table 1:

According to the results thus obtained, the thermal floral water of angelica (Angelica archangelica) has an antimicrobial activity on the germ Propionib cferium acnes.

Example 1 1: Comparative dosage of compounds of interest obtained from different floral thermal waters according to the extraction temperature

For each plant tested (iris, forget-me-not, angelica and water lily), 3 different extracts obtained from the same process as that described in example 2 for iris, forget-me-not and water-lily, and in the Example 3 for angelica, with the only change in condition being the exfraction temperature, namely 4 ° C, 42 ° C and 100 ° C respectively.

The results obtained are compiled in the Tables below.

Table 2:

Extraction at 42 ° C makes it possible to obtain an extract richer in dry matter and active molecules of interest, compared to extractions at 4 ° C and 100 ° C:

+ 41% in dry matter on average;

+ 392% polyphenols on average;

+ 90% of total sugars on average.

Table 3:

Extraction at 42 ° C makes it possible to obtain an extract richer in dry matter e † in active molecules of interest compared to extractions at 4 ° C e † 100 ° C: + About 88% in dry matter on average;

x 1 7.5 polyphenols on average.

Table 4:

Extraction at 42 ° C makes it possible to obtain an extract richer in active molecules of interest compared to extractions at 4 ° C and 100 ° C:

+ 175% polyphenols compared to extraction at 4 ° C;

+ 22% polyphenols compared to extraction at 100 ° C;

+ 276% of total sugars compared to extraction at 4 ° C;

+ 128% of total sugars compared to extraction at 100 ° C.

[0100] Table 5:

The extraction temperature has little influence on the color, the dry matter and the dosages of active molecules of interest.

However, extraction at 42 ° C allows slightly more polyphenols to be extracted, while still maintaining a good content of total sugars.

In conclusion, according to the results thus obtained and compiled in Tables 2 to 5, the extraction process at 42 ° C (equivalent to the native conditions of Rochefor thermal water †) makes it possible to obtain thermal waters. flowers exhibiting a significantly improved dosage of active compounds of interest compared to the same cold (4 ° C) or hot (100 ° C) extraction process; the floral thermal waters according to the invention should therefore be effective improved, e.g. moisturizing and antioxidant, compared to the same extracts at 4 ° C and 100 ° C.

[0101] Example 12: Evaluation of the acceptability, tolerance and effectiveness of the floral thermal water of forget-me-not [Myosotis sylvatica 1 according to the invention [obtained according to the method described in Example 21 via a panel Le test is performed on an external panel of 60 women with frequent skin sensitivities.

The forget-me-not floral thermal water according to the invention is applied to the face.

The evaluation is carried out after one application and after 56 days of application (twice a day).

Forget-me-not floral thermal water did not induce any irritation reaction and has very good skin compatibility during the patch test carried out under dermatological control.

As illustrated in Figure 2, upon application, the forget-me-not floral thermal water according to the invention brings softness, suppleness and comfort to the skin.

As illustrated in Figure 3, after 56 days of application of forget-me-not floral thermal water according to the invention, the skin appears soft, hydrated, soothed and the sensations of tightness are reduced.

Claims

1. Process for obtaining an extract from a part of a wet plant, characterized in that it comprises the following steps according to which:

a) said part chosen from among flowers, flowering tops, aerial parts, leaves, stems, buds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, bark, seeds, fruits, stones, berries, sap, resin, latex, thallus in their natural environment of said wet plant, taken alone or in combination, preferably flowers, flowering tops and / or aerial parts of said wet plant;

b) the part of the wet plant is infused in at least one bath essentially comprising thermal water, at a temperature between 35 and 50 ° C. for a maximum of 24 hours, so as to obtain a botanical thermal infusion; and

c) the botanical thermal infusion is preferably filtered down to 0.2 m so as to eliminate the part of the wet plant and obtain a deconfaminated botanical thermal infusion.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the wet plant is chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, evening primrose, meadowsweet, violet, aquatic mint, watercress, reed, papyrus, water plantain, water hyacinth, sundew, elderflower, red knotweed, lotus, rice, river millet, horsetail , marigold, orchid, orchid, marsh stump, fireweed, gentian, marsh star, taken alone or in combination during the infusion.

3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the wet plant is chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, preferably Nuphar lutea, Myosotis sylvatica, Iris pseudacorus or Angelica archangelica, taken alone or in combination.

4. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said part of the wet plant is used fresh, frozen or dried during its infusion.

5. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thermal water is the thermal water of Rochefor †.

6. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said part of the moist plant is infused at a temperature between 40 e † 44 ° C.

7. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said part of the wet plant is infused at a temperature of 42 ° C for ten minutes to two hours.

8. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the infusion is carried out with the addition of part of the wet plant in one or more times for a final ratio by weight / plant weight / thermal water of 1: 1 to 1:50, preferably of the order of 1: 2 to 1:40.

9. Extract of a part of a wet plant obtainable by the process according to one of claims 1 to 8.

10. Extract according to claim 9, characterized in that it is obtained from flowers, flowering tops and / or aerial parts of a wet plant chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, taken alone or in combination.

1 1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises an effective amount of an extract according to one of claims 9 or 10, and a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

12. Composition according to claim 1 1, characterized in that the extract is present in the composition at a concentration of 0.001% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 0.2% to 100. %.

13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that it es † formulated to be applied topically to the skin, the mucous membranes and integuments in the form of lai †, gel, cream, lotion, emulsion, serum, ointment, mask, scrub, suspension, soap, treatment water, micellar water, complexion product, make-up, shower product, product for oral hygiene, product for intimate hygiene.

14. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 1 to 13, for combating the appearance of signs of skin aging e † improving the care of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments.

15. Use according to claim 14, for moisturizing, sanitizing and / or soothing the skin.