FR3098119A1 - PROCESS FOR OBTAINING A BOTANICAL THERMAL INFUSION - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a process for obtaining an extract from a part of a moist plant. The invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps according to which: a) said part chosen from flowers, flowering tops, aerial parts, leaves, stems, buds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, are taken from their natural environment, bark, seeds, fruits, pits, berries, sap, resin, latex, thallus of said wet plant, taken alone or in combination, preferably flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts of said wet plant; b) the part of the moist plant is infused in at least one bath essentially comprising thermal water, at a temperature of between 35 and 50° C. for a maximum of 24 hours, so as to obtain a botanical thermal infusion; and c) the botanical thermal infusion is preferentially filtered down to 0.2 μm so as to eliminate the part of the moist plant and obtain a decontaminated botanical thermal infusion. The invention also relates to an extract capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention, a cosmetic composition comprising such an extract and the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for combating the appearance of the signs of aging. skin and improve the care of the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. Figure 1

Description

PROCESS FOR OBTAINING A BOTANICAL THERMAL INFUSION

The present invention relates to a process for obtaining an aqueous extract of a moist plant, the extracts thus obtained, the cosmetic compositions comprising such extracts and their uses.

Plant extraction is a process aimed at extracting certain constituents present in plants. It is a solid/liquid separation operation: a solid body (the plant) is brought into contact with a fluid (the solvent). The plant compounds of interest are then dissolved and contained in the solvent.

The plants exploited by man are used in particular in medicine, more particularly in herbal medicine, or in cosmetics.

Plant extracts can commonly be obtained by aqueous extraction or alcoholic fermentation and by processes such as infusion, maceration, decoction or hydrodistillation.

To obtain an aqueous extract, water is used as a solvent. The general scheme of solid/liquid extraction to obtain an aqueous extract can be declined in different ways, for example:
- in maceration, the contact phase is maintained at room temperature;
- in the decoction or reflux, the contact phase is maintained at the boiling temperature of the solvent;
- in the infusion, conventionally, the boiling solvent is poured on the solid then allowed to cool for a given time;
- in leaching or percolation, the solvent passes through the biomass.

It is also known to combine these implementations with one another or with other processes such as distillation, steam distillation, rectification, etc. , to use various solvents successively or as a mixture, or to assist with extraction aids such as ultrafiltration, reverse osmosis, high pressures (supercritical CO ₂ ), microwaves, ultrasound, etc.

Many factors influence the quality of a plant extract, and their combinations make it possible to obtain an almost infinite number of different extracts.

The raw material is one of the most important parameters but also the most difficult to control. Indeed, the same variety of plants is often of variable quality depending on the climatic conditions, the growing conditions, the geographical origin... It is therefore all the more complex to guarantee the constant quality of the extracts.

The specificity and yield of extractions also depend on intrinsic parameters such as solvent quality, choice of equipment and process-related properties.

The document FR3023482 is known, which describes an extract of umbellifer obtained from leaves, roots and/or seeds of an umbellifer such as angelica ( Angelica archangelica L. ), by means of at least one step of maceration at cold at a temperature between 2 and 15°C in water alone, for example Jonzac thermal water, or mixed with glycerin, and a filtration step to recover the umbellifer extract, either directly in the case where the water is mixed with the glycerin, or after mixing the filtered aqueous extract with the glycerin in the case where the water is alone. Such an extract comprises in particular an effective concentration of polyphenols including umbelliferone which are antioxidants and anti-free radicals which act in particular in the prevention of skin aging and the protection of the skin.

By way of example, one can also cite the document FR2945213 which discloses an extract obtained from the flowering aerial parts of maritime campion ( Silene maritima ) previously dried, then ground, brought into contact, with stirring, with a water / ethanol mixture. having a water/ethanol mass ratio of 30/70, at a temperature of 50° C. for 2 hours. The hydroalcoholic extract thus obtained (crude extract) is then filtered and dried in the form of a powder comprising water-soluble and hydrophilic compounds initially present in the plant. It is used in particular to combat the effects of skin aging on the dermis.

Technical problem

In general, it remains necessary to search for new compositions which possess antioxidant, anti-free radical and anti-ageing properties and which exhibit good cosmetic activity. There is therefore a need to develop new alternative processes for obtaining plant extracts having improved plant properties for promoting skin care.

Considering the foregoing, a problem which the invention proposes to solve is to implement a process for obtaining an extract from a part of a moist plant, advantageously from flowers and/or flowering tops and/or aerial parts, by an essentially aqueous solvent, which respects the fundamental principles of ecological and biological cosmetics. Such a method is easy to implement, has good yields, and the extracts thus obtained have an improved activity compared to those obtained by cold maceration.

Benefits provided

The method according to the invention offers in particular the following advantages compared to the prior art:
- the method makes it possible to obtain an extract from moist and fragile plants such as flowering tops and/or aerial parts;
- the method is simple to implement, and can thus advantageously be practiced with rudimentary equipment directly on the harvesting site;
- the method is economical in terms of energy and financial expenditure;
- the method uses an essentially aqueous solvent;
- the method makes it possible to obtain a sterilized and decontaminated extract which can be used as such in cosmetics;
- the method makes it possible to obtain an extract having an improved activity compared to those obtained by cold or hot extraction.

Technical solution

The first subject of the invention is therefore a process for obtaining an extract from a part of a moist plant comprising the following steps according to which:
a) the said part chosen from the flowers, flowering tops, aerial parts, leaves, stems, buds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, bark, seeds, fruits, stones, berries, sap, resin, latex, thallus are taken from their natural environment said wet plant, taken alone or in combination, preferably flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts of said wet plant;
b) the part of the moist plant is infused in at least one bath essentially comprising thermal water, at a temperature of between 35 and 50° C. for a maximum of 24 hours, so as to obtain a botanical thermal infusion; And
c) the botanical thermal infusion is preferentially filtered down to 0.2 μm so as to eliminate the part of the moist plant and obtain a decontaminated botanical thermal infusion.

A second subject of the invention is also an extract of a part of a moist plant obtainable by the process according to the invention, in particular an extract obtained from flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts of a moist plant chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, taken alone or in combination.

A third subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of an extract obtainable by the process according to the invention, and a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

Finally, the fourth and last object of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, to fight against the appearance of the signs of skin aging and to improve the care of the skin, mucous membranes and appendages.

The invention and the resulting advantages will be better understood on reading the description and the non-limiting embodiments which follow, with regard to the appended figure in which:

Fig.1

represents the comparison of the moisturizing activity from ex vivo human skin explants between Rochefort thermal water and a floral thermal water of Nymphea (Nuphar lutea) according to the invention by measuring the labeling of aquaporin-3 (AQP3).

The invention relates to a new process for obtaining an aqueous extract from a part of a moist plant.

A wet plant is a living organism belonging to the plant kingdom which develops naturally in a wet environment, by bringing water directly to the foot (marsh, pond, etc.) or by rain (undergrowth, wet meadows, etc.). It conventionally comprises at least 60% water by weight of its total weight, preferably around 75% water, depending on the stage of its development.

In a first step of the process according to the invention (step a), said part chosen from flowers, flowering tops, aerial parts, leaves, stems, buds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, barks, seeds, fruits, stones, berries, sap, resin, latex, thallus of said wet plant, taken alone or in combination, preferably flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts of said wet plant.

By natural environment, we mean the natural environment or a growing area with conditions similar to those of the natural environment in which the plant develops.

By way of illustrative example, the wet plant is preferentially chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, more preferentially Nuphar lutea , Myosotis sylvatica , Iris pseudacorus or Angelica archangelica , taken alone or in combination during the 'infusion.

By way of illustrative example of the invention, the water lily ( Nuphar lutea ) is picked by hand at the time of flowering (June) in streams, ponds or marshes.

According to another illustrative example of the invention, the forget-me-not ( Myosotis sylvatica ) is picked by hand at the time of flowering (May) in the undergrowth, wet meadows or marshes.

According to another illustrative example of the invention, the iris ( iris pseudacorus ) is picked by hand at the time of flowering (May-June) along or in watercourses, ditches or wet meadows.

According to another illustrative example of the invention, angelica ( Angelica archangelica ) is cultivated and cut at the time of flowering (May-June) in particular in fields, marshes or wet meadows and along watercourses .

The part of the moist plant can be used fresh, frozen, or dried during its infusion.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the part of the moist plant is dried, before or after its storage at room temperature for a maximum period of 24 months, preferably 12 months while waiting for the next harvest, before its infusion.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the part of the moist plant, preferably the flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts, is used fresh during its infusion, so as to avoid degrading it.

According to a particularly advantageous mode of the invention, the flowers, flowering tops and/or fresh aerial parts of the moist plant are infused within a maximum period of 12 hours, advantageously 4 hours, after their collection.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts, preferably fresh, of the moist plant are kept in positive cold and/or negative cold for a maximum period of 24 months, preferably 12 months in waiting for the next harvest, and thus used during its infusion.

The moist plant part, taken alone or in combination, is then infused as required substantially immediately after it is collected, or after it has been stored at ambient temperature, in positive cold and/or in negative cold.

The method according to the invention may also further comprise a step of grinding the part of the moist plant before its infusion.

Then, according to the method according to the invention (step b), the part of the moist plant is infused in at least one bath essentially comprising thermal water, at a temperature between 35° C. and 50° C., preferably between 40° C. and 44°C, for a maximum of 24 hours, so as to obtain a botanical thermal infusion.

The duration of the infusion step according to the invention can be up to 24 hours, for example 12 hours, preferably from ten minutes to approximately two hours, and will have an influence on the profile of the extract obtained.

Preferably, said part of the moist plant is infused at a temperature of the order of 42° C. for ten minutes to approximately two hours.

Advantageously, the temperature and duration of the infusion according to the invention have been optimized, temperature and time necessary and sufficient to extract the molecules of interest according to the invention.

The thermal water preferentially used as solvent is a sulphated polymetallic thermal water mixed with calcium, sodium chloride, magnesium, hypermineralized with a mineral content of at least 5000 mg/L, for example of the order of 6000 mg/L, comprising mainly calcium and magnesium, as well as silicon, strontium, boron, lithium and manganese, hypotonic, practically isotonic.

The thermal water most preferably used as a solvent is Rochefort thermal water.

Rochefort thermal spring water is naturally present at a temperature of 42°C, hypermineralized with a mineral content of 5800 mg/l to 6200 mg/L. It essentially comprises 500 to 600 mg/L of calcium, 50 to 150 mg/L of magnesium, 17 to 21 mg/L of silicon, 10 to 15 mg/L of strontium, 2 to 3 mg/L of boron, 1 to 2 mg/L of lithium and 0.01 to 0.1 mg/L of manganese.

It has low cytotoxicity.

During infusion, the solid part of the moist plant bathes in thermal water and can be gently stirred.

The infusion is preferably carried out with the addition of part of the moist plant in one or more stages for a final weight/vegetable weight/thermal water ratio of 1:1 to 1:50, more preferably of the order of 1:2 to 1:40, for example 1:5, 1:10, 1:15, 1:20, 1:25, 1:30, or 1:35, more preferably of the order of 1:9.

For example, a single bath can be made with one or more additional addition(s) of thermal water, or several baths, for a final weight/vegetable weight/thermal water ratio of 1:1 to 1:50, preferably of the order of 1:2 to 1:40, more preferably of the order of 1:9.

For example, several ironings of parts of the plant are advantageously carried out in the same bath of thermal water to saturate it, for example up to 5 ironings, which makes it possible to concentrate the botanical thermal infusion.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the infusion is carried out by circulation of solvent in a closed circuit, that is to say that the solvent is circulated over the part of the plant so as to create a movement in the extractor, and avoid areas of solvent saturation on the periphery of the plant part. The mixing thus brings less saturated solvent which will extract in turn.

Alternatively, infusions can be made in several concomitant or successive baths, depending on the amount of plant part to be treated.

Then, according to the process according to the invention, the botanical thermal infusion is filtered (step c) preferentially to 0.2 μm so as to eliminate the part of the moist plant and obtain a decontaminated botanical thermal infusion.

This filtration step according to the invention is important because it makes it possible to obtain a decontaminated extract which can be used as such and which can be stored for several weeks to several months, for example 12 months, without losing the properties of the molecules of interest. .

The extracts obtained according to the invention do not induce any irritation reaction and have very good skin compatibility and low cytotoxicity.

Also, according to another aspect, the invention relates to an extract capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention.

Such extracts are very difficult to characterize as such because they vary, for the same species, according to various factors such as the flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts used, the place of harvest, or even the year of harvest.

Preferably, the invention relates to an extract capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention from flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts of a moist plant chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, taken alone or in combination.

The extract obtained according to the invention is an aqueous extract, and more particularly an advantageously decontaminated botanical thermal infusion obtained according to the process according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for the extracts of water lily, forget-me-not and iris, the extract obtained does not substantially comprise furocoumarins (with a total of less than 10 ppm) which are photosensitive toxic agents.

Such a botanical thermal infusion according to the invention is particularly rich in total sugars after hydrolysis, of the order of 0.2 g/L to 2 g/L and in polyphenols.

According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of an extract obtainable according to the invention, and a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

A cosmetically acceptable excipient means a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, in particular cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit/risk ratio.

By way of non-limiting examples of cosmetically acceptable excipient, the composition may comprise suitable formulation excipients, such as waters, colorants, sweeteners, flavoring agents, opacifiers, perfumes, bulking agents, gelling agents, texturizers, binders, chelating agents, oils, esters, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, foamers, and/or preservatives.

When preservatives are added to the botanical thermal infusion according to the invention, we then speak of floral or botanical thermal water according to the invention.

By effective quantity is meant the minimum quantity which is necessary to obtain the activity of the botanical thermal infusion according to the invention.

The extract is preferably present in the composition at a concentration of 0.001 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, more preferably from 0.2 to 100%.

The composition according to the invention is capable of optionally comprising another active element chosen from an anti-aging agent, a moisturizing agent, a soothing agent, a purifying agent, a protective agent or a mixture of these agents.

As non-limiting examples of other active element according to the invention, mention may be made of sugars such as ribose as anti-aging agents, hyaluronic acid, olive squalane, aloe vera or a gel lamellar containing Jonzac thermal water (FR2968553) as moisturizing agents, bisabolol, phytosphingosine or chamomile extract as soothing agents, witch hazel extract or zinc PCA as purifying agents, vitamin E or carrot oil as a protective agent.

The composition according to the invention is formulated to be applied topically to the skin, the mucous membranes and appendages.

The skin refers more particularly to the skin of the face, in particular the outline of the eyes and the mouth, the nose, the forehead, the neck, the hands, as well as the skin of the whole of the rest of the body.

Appendages designate substances naturally present in the human organism or the animal organism rich in keratin, and more particularly the hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.

The composition may be more or less fluid and may be in any galenic form suitable for use for topical application to the skin, mucous membranes and appendages, for example in the form of milk, gel, cream, lotion, emulsion, serum, ointment, mask, scrub, suspension, soap, skincare water, micellar water, complexion product, make-up, shower product, oral hygiene product, intimate hygiene product.

According to a last aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, to fight against the appearance of the signs of skin aging and to improve the care of the skin, mucous membranes and appendages, and more particularly to hydrate, purify and/or soothe the skin.

The cutaneous signs of fatigue, stress and premature aging according to the invention designate more particularly, but are not limited to, all the visible manifestations on the skin caused by fatigue and stress such as wrinkles, fine lines, cracks, bags under the eyes, dark circles, sagging skin and subcutaneous tissue, loss of skin elasticity and atony, loss of firmness and tone, and dermal atrophy.

The composition according to the invention improves the hydration of the epidermis so as to correct skin dryness and bring elasticity and tone to the skin so as to restore all its radiance and no longer have a withered, soft skin. , thinned, dull. By increasing the hydration of the epidermis, this can strengthen the barrier function of the skin and allow it to fight more effectively against all types of external aggressions.

By external aggressions, we mean the aggressions that the environment can produce. By way of non-limiting examples, mention may be made of aggressions such as pollution, UV radiation, in particular UVB, linked for example to overexposure to the sun, products of an irritant nature such as surfactants, preservatives or perfumes , mechanical aggressions such as abrasions, shaving or depilation.

By pollution, we mean both “external” pollution due, for example, to diesel particles, ozone or heavy metals, and “internal” pollution, which may be due in particular to emissions of paint solvents, glues, or wallpaper (such as toluene, styrene, xylene or benzaldehyde), or even cigarette smoke.

Examples

The present invention will now be illustrated by means of the following examples:

Example 1: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention
- Collection of plants in their natural environment manually and/or mechanically
- Grinding of fresh plants
- Infusion of fresh plants in Rochefort thermal water at 42°C: plant implemented at around 10% (ratio by weight/vegetable weight/thermal water of 1:9), for an extraction time of 2 hours
- Clarification by filtration
- Added preservatives
- Decontamination by filtration at 0.2 µm

Example 2: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention
- Collection of plants in their natural environment manually and/or mechanically
- Storage in positive and/or negative cold for a maximum of 24 months
- Grinding plants
- Infusion of the plants in the thermal water of Rochefort at 42°C: plant implemented at approximately 10% (ratio in weight/plant weight/thermal water of 1:9), for an extraction time of 2 hours
- Clarification by filtration
- Added preservatives
- Decontamination by 0.2 µm filtration

Example 3: Process for obtaining decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention
- Collection of plants in their natural environment manually and/or mechanically
- Grinding plants
- Storage at room temperature after drying for a maximum of 24 months
- Infusion of the plants in the thermal water of Rochefort at 42°C: plant implemented at approximately 10% (ratio in weight/plant weight/thermal water of 1:9), for an extraction time of 2 hours
- Clarification by filtration
- Added preservatives
- Decontamination by 0.2 µm filtration

Example 4: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention
- Collection of plants in their natural environment manually and/or mechanically
- Storage at room temperature after drying for a maximum of 24 months
- Grinding plants
- Infusion of the plants in the thermal water of Rochefort at 42°C: plant implemented at approximately 10% (ratio in weight/plant weight/thermal water of 1:9), for an extraction time of 2 hours
- Clarification by filtration
- Added preservatives
- Decontamination by 0.2 µm filtration

Example 5: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention
- Collection of plants in their natural environment manually and/or mechanically
- Grinding plants
- Infusion of the plants in the thermal water of Rochefort at 42°C: plant implemented at approximately 10% (ratio in weight/plant weight/thermal water of 1:9), for an extraction time of 2 hours
- Clarification by filtration
- Decontamination by 0.2 µm filtration
- Added preservatives

Example 6: Process for obtaining a decontaminated botanical thermal water according to the invention
- Collection of plants in their natural environment manually and/or mechanically
- Grinding plants
- Storage at room temperature (before or after drying), positive or negative cold for a maximum of 24 months
- Infusion of the plants in the thermal water of Rochefort at 42°C: plant implemented at approximately 10% (ratio in weight/plant weight/thermal water of 1:9), for an extraction time of 2 hours
- Clarification by filtration
- Decontamination by 0.2 µm filtration
- Added preservatives

Example 7: Comparison of the moisturizing activity from human skin explants ex vivo between the thermal water of Rochefort (P1) and a floral thermal water of Nymphea ( Nuphar lutea ) according to the invention (obtained according to the process described in Example 2, P2)
The purpose of the study is to comparatively evaluate the moisturizing action of two products from ex vivo human skin explants.
The activity will be evaluated by:
- control of cell viability with particular attention paid to the stratum corneum ;
- immunostaining of aquaporin-3 (AQP3).
On D0, D2, D5 and D7, the products P1 and P2 were applied topically, at the rate of 2 μl per explant (2 mg/cm ² ) and spread using a spatula.
The explants of batches T did not receive any treatment, except renewal of the medium.
Half of the medium was renewed (1 ml per well) on D2, D5 and D7.
Results :
The measurement of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) labeling in the epidermis on all batches is illustrated in Figure 1.
On D0, on the control batch T0, the labeling of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is weak to moderate in the epidermis.
On D3, on the control batch TJ3, the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is quite clear in the epidermis.
On D8, on the control batch TJ8, the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is moderate in the epidermis.
According to the experimental conditions described above and compared to the control batch T on D3 or D8, the effect of the products tested on the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) was measured and the following results were obtained:
On D3:
- the product P1 induces a slight increase;
- the product P2 induces a fairly clear increase.
On D8:
- the product P1 does not induce any modification;
- the product P2 does not induce any modification.
The Nymphea floral thermal water (P2) obtained according to the invention has better moisturizing activity, up to 3 days after its first application, than Rochefort thermal water (P1), via the increase in aquaporin -3.

Example 8: DPPH test for a floral thermal water of iris ( Iris pseudacorus ) according to the invention (obtained according to the method described in example 2)
2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) is a commercially available radical under very stable nitrogen, characterized by an intense purple red color. DPPH is used for its properties to discolor when reduced in the presence of a compound possessing antioxidant capacity. In this test, the DPPH assay is used to determine whether a test product has an antioxidant effect by comparing it to a vitamin E analogue, Trolox. It is possible to quantify the reducing capacity of the test product which acts by hydrogen transfer and electron transfer by spectrophotometric measurement at 517 nm of the variation in absorbance of the DPPH solution after reaction with an antioxidant compound.
The results obtained are expressed in relation to the protection exerted by Trolox, the reference antioxidant. A range of Trolox introduced into the test makes it possible to express the results in µmol of Trolox equivalent/L of product.
Under the test conditions carried out, the iris floral thermal water according to the invention obtains a result of 78.45 μmol of Trolox equivalent/L of product and thus has high antioxidant capacities.

Example 9: DPPH test for a floral thermal water of angelica ( Angelica archangelica) according to the invention (obtained according to the method described in example 3)
Under the test conditions carried out, the angelica floral thermal water according to the invention obtains a result of 56.25 μmol of Trolox equivalent/g of dry matter and thus has very high antioxidant capacities.

Example 10: Determination of the antimicrobial activity of a floral thermal water of angelica ( Angelica archangelica ) according to the invention (obtained according to the method described in example 3)
The aim of the study is to evaluate the antimicrobial action of the product on propionibacterium acnes .
Experimental condition:
- 20 ml of product are inoculated with 0.2 ml of a calibrated suspension of the germ to be tested.
- Shake and leave in contact for the required time: 30 minutes, 60 minutes, 120 minutes.
- Transfer 1 ml to a sterile tube containing 9 ml of EUGON LT100 Broth.
- Perform the appropriate dilutions.
- Inoculate 1 ml of each dilution in a Petri dish
- Pour PLATE COUNT AGAR medium, allow to solidify and incubate anaerobically for 3 to 5 days at 35°C +/- 2.5°C.
The results obtained are compiled in Table 1 below.

Strain Inoculum (cfu/ml) Contact time Results (cfu/g) P. acnes 5.9E+05 30 mins 4.8E+04 60 mins 4.7E+03 120 mins 1.0E+01

According to the results thus obtained, the floral thermal water of angelica ( Angelica archangelica ) has an antimicrobial activity on the Propionibacterium acnes germ.

Example 11: Comparative assays of compounds of interest obtained from different floral thermal waters as a function of the extraction temperature
For each plant tested (iris, forget-me-not, angelica and waterlily), 3 different extracts are produced, obtained from the same process as that described in Example 2 for iris, forget-me-not and waterlily, and in the example 3 for angelica, with the only change in condition being the extraction temperature, namely 4° C., 42° C. and 100° C. respectively.
The results obtained are compiled in the Tables below.

THERMAL FLORAL WATER OF MYOSOTIS Temperature4°C Temperature42°C Temperature100°C Total polyphenols 4 – 8mg/L 30 – 40mg/L 5 – 9mg/L Hydrolyzed total sugars 0.5 – 1g/L 1 – 2g/L 0.5 – 1g/L Dry matter 0.6 – 1% 1 – 1.5% 0.7 – 1.1%

Extraction at 42°C makes it possible to obtain an extract richer in dry matter and in active molecules of interest, compared to extractions at 4°C and 100°C:
+ 41% in dry matter on average;
+ 392% polyphenols on average;
+ 90% total sugars on average.

ANGELIC FLORAL THERMAL WATER Temperature4°C Temperature42°C Temperature100°C Total polyphenols 6 – 10mg/L 200 – 300mg/L 15 – 20mg/L Dry matter 0.6 – 1% 1.5 – 2% 0.7 – 1.1%

Extraction at 42°C makes it possible to obtain an extract richer in dry matter and in active molecules of interest compared to extractions at 4°C and 100°C:
+ approximately 88% in dry matter on average;
x 17.5 polyphenols on average.

NYMPHEA FLORAL THERMAL WATER Temperature4°C Temperature42°C Temperature100°C Total polyphenols 2 – 6mg/L 8 – 15mg/L 6 – 10mg/L Hydrolyzed total sugars 0.25 – 0.45g/L 1 – 1.5g/L 0.4 – 0.8g/L Dry matter 0.6 – 1% 0.8 – 1.2% 0.7 – 1.1%

Extraction at 42°C makes it possible to obtain an extract richer in active molecules of interest compared to extractions at 4°C and 100°C:
+ 175% polyphenols compared to extraction at 4°C;
+ 22% polyphenols compared to extraction at 100°C;
+ 276% total sugars compared to extraction at 4°C;
+ 128% total sugars compared to extraction at 100°C.

IRIS FLORAL THERMAL WATER Temperature4°C Temperature42°C Temperature100°C Total polyphenols 40 - 50mg/L 80 – 90mg/L 70 - 80mg/L Hydrolyzed total sugars 1.75 – 1.85g/L 1.40 – 1.50g/L 0.30 – 0.45g/L Dry matter 0.8 – 1.1% 1.1 – 1.5% 1.1 – 1.5%

The extraction temperature has little influence on the color, the dry matter and the dosages of active molecules of interest.
However, extraction at 42°C makes it possible to extract slightly more polyphenols, while maintaining a good total sugar content.
In conclusion, according to the results thus obtained and compiled in Tables 2 to 5, the extraction process at 42°C (equivalent to the native conditions of Rochefort thermal water) makes it possible to obtain floral thermal waters presenting a significantly improved dosage of active compounds of interest compared to the same cold (4°C) or hot (100°C) extraction process; the floral thermal waters according to the invention should therefore have improved effectiveness, for example moisturizing and antioxidant, compared to the same extracts at 4°C and 100°C.

Claims (13)

Process for obtaining an extract from a part of a moist plant, characterized in that it comprises the following steps according to which:
a) the said part chosen from the flowers, flowering tops, aerial parts, leaves, stems, buds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, bark, seeds, fruits, stones, berries, sap, resin, latex, thallus are taken from their natural environment said wet plant, taken alone or in combination, preferably flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts of said wet plant;
b) the part of the moist plant is infused in at least one bath essentially comprising thermal water, at a temperature of between 35 and 50° C. for a maximum of 24 hours, so as to obtain a botanical thermal infusion; And
c) the botanical thermal infusion is preferentially filtered down to 0.2 μm so as to eliminate the part of the moist plant and obtain a decontaminated botanical thermal infusion. Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the moist plant is chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, preferably Nuphar lutea , Myosotis sylvatica , Iris pseudacorus or Angelica archangelica , taken alone or in combination. Process according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the said part of the moist plant is used fresh, frozen or dried during its infusion. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thermal water is Rochefort thermal water. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said part of the moist plant is infused at a temperature of the order of 42°C for ten minutes to approximately two hours. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the infusion is carried out with the addition of part of the moist plant in one or more stages for a final ratio in weight/vegetable weight/thermal water of 1:1 to 1:50 , preferably of the order of 1:2 to 1:40. Extract of a part of a moist plant obtainable according to one of claims 1 to 6. Extract according to Claim 7, characterized in that it is obtained from flowers, flowering tops and/or aerial parts of a moist plant chosen from water lily, forget-me-not, iris, angelica, taken alone or in combination. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises an effective amount of an extract according to one of Claims 7 or 8, and a cosmetically acceptable excipient. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the extract is present in the composition at a concentration of 0.001 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, preferably from 0.2 to 100%. Composition according to Claim 9 or 10, characterized in that it is formulated to be applied topically to the skin, the mucous membranes and appendages in the form of milk, gel, cream, lotion, emulsion, serum, ointment, mask, scrub, suspension , soap, skincare water, micellar water, complexion product, make-up, shower product, oral hygiene product, intimate hygiene product. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of Claims 9 to 11, for combating the appearance of signs of skin aging and improving the care of the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. Use according to Claim 12, for moisturizing, purifying and/or soothing the skin.