Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/88—Polyamides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
  • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
  • A61K2800/5422—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

• a subject-matter of the invention is a styling composition
• a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polymer (A) with specific characteristics and at least one film-forming and nonionic polymer (B). It is also targeted at a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hair using this composition and at its use in the formulation of styling products, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, for the purpose of obtaining form retention or shaping of the hairstyle.
• compositions to be sprayed as an aerosol or as a pump-action spray such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, composed essentially of a solution, generally an alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution, and of a water-soluble or alcohol-soluble film-forming polymer, as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.
• these hair formulations such as mousses, gels and especially aerosol sprays and lacquers intended to retain the form of the hairstyle, still do not make it possible for the hairstyle to satisfactorily withstand the various natural movements of life, such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind.
• the polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic film-forming polymers which result in the formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle nature.
• the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally of less than 2%, and the hold of the hairstyle over time is not assured.
• these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers, and more flexible and non-flaky coatings have already been obtained.
• these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that, after deformation, they only recover their initial form to a very small extent. While the hold of the hairstyle is improved, it is still not satisfactory since the form of the hairstyle changes over time.
• compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers, such as, for example, a cellulose polymer and an acrylic polymer.
• film-forming polymers such as, for example, a cellulose polymer and an acrylic polymer.
• a subject-matter of the invention is a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
• acrylic ester copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates;
• Another subject-matter of the present invention relates to a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.
• Yet another subject-matter of the present invention relates to the use of this composition in the manufacture of hair cosmetic compositions for the purpose of obtaining form retention or shaping of the hairstyle.
• the polymers (A) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Goodrich under the name Avalure AC 315® and V29®.
• the term “film obtained by drying at room temperature (22 ⁇ 2° C.) and at a relative humidity level of 50% ⁇ 5%” is understood to mean the film obtained under these conditions starting from a mixture comprising 6% of active material (a.m.) of polymer A with ethanol or water, the amount of mixture being adjusted in order to obtain, in a Teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500 ⁇ 50 ⁇ m. The drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days.
• the polymers A which are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol.
• the other polymers are tested in water, in the dissolved or dispersed form.
• the degree of elongation at break and the degree of recovery are evaluated by means of the tests described below.
• the film is cut into rectangular test specimens with a length of 80 mm and a width of 15 mm.
• the tests are carried out on a device, sold under the name Lloyd or sold under the name Zwick, under the same temperature and humidity conditions as for the drying, that is to say a temperature of 22 ⁇ 2° C. and a relative humidity level of 50 ⁇ 5%.
• test specimens are drawn at the rate of 20 mm/min and the distance between the jaws is 50 ⁇ 1 mm.
• test specimen is drawn by 150% ( ⁇ max ), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (l 0 )
• the stress is released at a return rate equal to the tensile rate, i.e. 20 mm/min, and the elongation of the test specimen is measured as a percentage after returning to zero load ( ⁇ i ).
• test specimen which has been subjected to the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds and its degree of elongation is measured as a percentage ( ⁇ 300 )
• R 300 (( ⁇ max ⁇ 300 )/ ⁇ max ) ⁇ 100
• nonionic film-forming polymers (B) which can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from:
• polyalkyloxazolines such as the polyethyloxazolines provided by the company Dow Chemical under the names Peox 50,000, Peox 200,000 and Peox 500,000;
• vinyl acetate homopolymers such as the product provided under the name of Appretan EM by the company Hoechst or the product provided under the name of Rhodopas A 012 by the company Rhone-Poulenc;
• copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester such as the product provided under the name of Rhodopas AD 310 from Rhône-Poulenc;
• copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene such as the product provided under the name of Appretan TV by the company Hoechst;
• copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester for example dibutyl maleate, such as the product provided under the name Appretan MB Extra by the company Hoechst;
• alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers such as the product provided under the name Micropearl RQ 750 by the company Matsumoto or the product provided under the name Luhydran A 848 S by the company BASF;
• acrylic ester copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products provided by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Primal AC-261 K and Eudragit NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the names Acronal 601 or Luhydran LR 8833 or 8845, or by the company Hoechst under the names Appretan N 9213 or N 9212;
• copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates mention may be made of the products provided under the names Nipol LX 531 B by the company Nippon Zeon or those provided under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Röhm & Haas;
• polyurethanes such as the products provided under the names Acrysol RM 1020 or Acrysol RM 2020 by the company Röhm & Haas or the products Uraflex XP 401 UZ or Uraflex XP 402 UZ by the company DSM Resins;
• copolymers of alkyl acrylate and of urethane such as the product 8538-33 by the company National Starch;
• polyamides such as the product Estapor LO 11 provided by the company Rhône-Poulenc;
• the unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the name Jaguar by the company Meyhall.
• modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified by C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
• guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum, so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
• nonionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the tradenames Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC293 and Jaguar HP105 by the company Meyhall or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.
• the alkyl radicals of the nonionic polymers have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, unless otherwise mentioned.
• nonionic film-forming polymers derived from hydroxystyrene and in particular those capable of being obtained by the copolymerization of:
• At least one hydroxystyrene monomer one of its precursors or one of its salts, the phenyl group of this monomer comprising at least one hydroxyl unit and optionally being substituted by one or more radicals chosen from the group consisting of C 1 to C 12 alkyl, C 1 to C 12 alkoxyalkyl, halogen, SO 3 H, (C 2 to C 12 )acylamino, carboxyl and C 1 to C 12 carboxyalkyl radicals, and
• the vinyl, acrylic or methacrylic monomers can comprise one or more siloxane groups.
• they are chosen in particular from the group consisting of:
• silicone macromonomers with a monofunctional vinyl, allyl, or ester ether or amide of acrylic or methacrylic acid ending of formula CH 2 ⁇ C(R 1 )—C—X—R 2 —Si(CH 3 )(R 4 ) —O—Si(CH 3 ) 2 —R 3 ,
• R 1 represents H or CH 3 ,
• X represents O or NH
• R 2 represents (CH 2 ) p , p being an integer which can be zero,
• R 3 and R 4 independently represent CH 3 or an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic C 1 to C 12 group; the vinyl, allyl, or ester ether or amide of acrylic or methacrylic acid monomer comprising one or more halogenated groups, in particular chlorinated and/or fluorinated groups, and/or comprising a group which absorbs in the UVA and/or UVB regions, in particular benzylidenecamphor or benzotriazole groups, which are substituted or unsubstituted.
• the polymers of the hydroxystyrene type can also be obtained by a homopolymerization reaction which can advantageously be carried out from acetoxystyrene, in order to obtain poly-p-acetoxystyrene, and be followed by hydrolysis. It can also be carried out in acid medium from 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol.
• the polymer is advantageously a homopolymer belonging to the family of the poly-p-hydroxystyrene and preferably poly-4-hydroxystyrene is chosen.
• the term “precursor of a hydroxystyrene monomer” is understood to mean any phenolic derivative capable of resulting in hydroxystyrene via a decomposition reaction in acid medium, in particular by dehydration in acid medium.
• the precursor can be acetoxystyrene or 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol and the decomposition reaction can, in this case, be represented diagrammatically in the following way:
• PHS-E is a homopolymer corresponding to the formula:
• PHS-E is obtained from acetoxystyrene by means of radical polymerization, followed by hydrolysis. Its molecular mass is between 8000 and 100,000 g/mol. PHS-E is a linear polymer.
• PHS-PG is a polymer corresponding to the formula:
• PHS-PG is obtained by catalysed polymerization in acid medium from 4-hydroxyphenylmethylcarbinol. Its molecular mass is between 4000 and 7000 g/mol.
• PHS-N is a polymer corresponding to the formula:
• PHS-N is a polymer obtained by catalysed polymerization in acid medium of 4-hydroxyphenylmetylcarbinol. Its molecular mass is between 4000 and 7000 g/mol.
• PHS-PG-L is a polymer exhibiting the same empirical formula as PHS-E. However, the process for producing it is different since the polymerization is carried out from hydroxystyrene monomers.
• the film-forming polymer or polymers (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably of between 0.1 and 15% by weight and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the film-forming polymer or polymers (B) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably of between 0.1 and 15% by weight and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• concentrations of polymers (A) and (B) are advantageously chosen so that the ratio of the concentration of polymer (A) to the concentration of polymer CUB) is between 4000 and 0.002.
• the cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably composed of water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, such as alcohols or water/solvent(s) mixtures, these solvents preferably being C 1 -C 4 alcohols.
• composition of the invention can also comprise at least one additive chosen from thickeners, surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, inorganic or synthetic non-fixing polymers and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.
• compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in pump-action sprays or in aerosol containers, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in mousse form.
• Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for fixing or treating the hair.
• the compositions in accordance with the invention can also be provided in the form of creams, of gels, of emulsions, of lotions or of waxes.
• composition according to the invention when packaged in aerosol form for the purpose of obtaining a lacquer or a mousse, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Use may also be made, as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen or compressed air. Use may also be made of mixtures of propellants. Dimethyl ether is preferably used.
• the propellant is advantageously present at a concentration of between 5 and 90% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and more particularly at a concentration of between 10 and 60%.
• compositions in accordance with the invention can be applied to dry or wet hair.
• a styling composition in accordance with the present invention comprising Avalure AC315 as polymer (A) and polyvinylcaprolactam as polymer (B), and a composition in accordance with the prior art, comprising Avalure AC315 as polymer (A) and ethyl cellulose as polymer (B), are prepared.
• the formulations prepared are summarized in Table 1 below.
• Composition 1 Composition 2 (prior art) (invention) Avalure AC315 1.5% 2.65% Ethyl cellulose 0.2% — Polyvinylcaprolactam — 0.35% Ethanol q.s. 100 q.s. 100
• compositions 65%, DME 35%) are applied to locks of eurochestnut hair with a length of 18 cm and a weight of 20 grams.
• the softness and the ease of disentangling of the hair after application of these compositions to the hair are evaluated by means of a sensory test with a panel of 5 people.
• the grades attributed range from 0 (poor performance) to 50 (excellent performance).
• the disentangling evaluated is the ease with which the comb can be run through after a first disentangling intended to break the polymer/individual hair structures.
• Composition 1 Composition 2 (prior art) (invention) Softness 10 20 Disentangling 20 25
• compositions according to the invention provide better results in terms of softness and of disentangling than the compositions in accordance with the prior art.

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Citations (7)

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• 1998
  • 1998-11-26 FR FR9814907A patent/FR2786392B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1999
  • 1999-11-18 PL PL99341932A patent/PL341932A1/xx not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1999-11-18 JP JP2000583478A patent/JP2002530309A/ja not_active Withdrawn
  • 1999-11-18 AU AU12766/00A patent/AU746140B2/en not_active Ceased
  • 1999-11-18 CN CNB998044857A patent/CN1262266C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1999-11-18 WO PCT/FR1999/002830 patent/WO2000030593A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1999-11-18 EP EP05291946A patent/EP1621180A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1999-11-18 US US09/600,976 patent/US6497864B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1999-11-18 BR BR9907724-8A patent/BR9907724A/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1999-11-18 KR KR10-2000-7008175A patent/KR100391700B1/ko not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1999-11-18 EP EP99956076A patent/EP1051145A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1999-11-18 RU RU2000122437/14A patent/RU2200534C2/ru not_active IP Right Cessation

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