AU1710601A

AU1710601A - Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising film-forming polymers

Info

Publication number: AU1710601A
Application number: AU17106/01A
Authority: AU
Inventors: Christine Dupuis; Henri Samain
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 1999-11-19
Filing date: 2000-11-10
Publication date: 2001-05-30
Also published as: JP2003533433A; BR0015691A; WO2001035910A1; FR2801200A1; MXPA02004994A; FR2801200B1; EP1233739A1

Description

WO 01/35910 1 PCT/FROO/03139 COSMETIC HAIR COMPOSITION WHICH PROVIDES GOOD HOLD PROPERTIES AND WHICH COMPRISES FILM-FORMING POLYMERS A subject matter of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically 5 acceptable medium, at least one polymer (A) with specific characteristics. It is also targeted at a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hair using this composition and at its use in the formulation of styling products, such as lacquers, 10 sprays or mousses, for the purpose of obtaining retention of the form of or shaping of the hairstyle. Mention may be made, among the hair products for fixing the hair which are the most widely available on the cosmetics market, of compositions to be sprayed 15 as an aerosol or as a pump-action spray, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, composed essentially of a solution, generally an alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution, and of a film-forming polymer which is soluble in water or in the alcohol, as a mixture with 20 various cosmetic adjuvants. However, these hair formulations, such as mousses, gels and, in particular, aerosol sprays and lacquers, intended to retain the form of the hairstyle still do not allow the hairstyle to withstand in a 25 satisfactory manner the various natural movements of everyday life, such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind. The polymers used for the formulation of 2 these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or nonionic film-forming polymers which result in the formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle nature. When the polymer is too brittle, the 5 percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally less than 2%, and the hold of the hairstyle over time is not assured. To overcome this problem, these polymers have already been blended with plasticizers and more 10 flexible and nonfriable coatings have already been obtained. However, these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that, after deformation, they recover their initial form only to a very slight extent. While the hold of the hairstyle is improved, it 15 is still not satisfactory since the form of the hairstyle changes over time. More satisfactory results in terms of hold have been obtained with compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers, such as, for 20 example, a polyvinylcaprolactam polymer and an acrylic polymer. However, these compositions are still not entirely satisfactory, insofar as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties. In addition, it would be desirable to further increase the fixing power. 25 There is therefore a search for cosmetic compositions for the retention of the form of and/or the fixing of the hairstyle which provide the hair with, in addition to durable fixing, good cosmetic 3 properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant Company has discovered that it is possible to overcome 5 the technical problems mentioned above by using specific polymers. A subject matter of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polymer 10 (A) chosen so that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity of 50%, exhibits a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) an elongation at break (sb) of greater 15 than or equal to 160%; (b) an instantaneous recovery (Ri) of between 10 and 68%, (c) a recovery (R 300 ) at 300 seconds of between 30 and 100%; 20 (d) when the recovery (R 300 ) at 300 seconds is between 45 and 60%, then the elongation at break (Sb) is less than 1 300%, (e) a Young's modulus of greater than 10 MPa, measured at a thickness of 0.5 mm and at a pull rate of 25 20 mm/min. Another subject matter of the present invention relates to a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.

4 Yet another subject matter of the present invention relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of cosmetic hair compositions, for the purpose of obtaining retention of the form of or 5 shaping of the hairstyle. The polymers (A) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by AIR PRODUCT under the name YAY IEG 973 and by SANYO under the name PA Marin UA 310. 10 Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "film obtained by drying at ambient temperature (22 ± 2 0 C) and at a relative humidity of 50% ± 5%" is understood to mean the film obtained under these conditions starting from a mixture comprising 6% 15 of active material (a.m.) of polymer A with ethanol or water, the amount of mixture being adjusted in order to obtain, in a teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500 ± 50 pm. The drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents 20 approximately 12 days. The polymers A which are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water, in a soluble or dispersed form. Within the meaning of the present invention, 25 the degree of elongation at break and the degree of recovery are evaluated by means of the tests described below. To carry out the tensile tests, the film is 5 cut up into test specimens of rectangular shape, with a length of 80 mm and a width of 15 mm. The tests are carried out, on a device sold under the name Lloyd or sold under the name Zwick, 5 under the same temperature and humidity conditions as for the drying, that is to say a temperature of 22 i 2*C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 5%. The test specimens are stretched at the rate of 20 mm/min and the distance between the clamping jaws 10 is 50 ± 1 mm. The procedure for determining the instantaneous recovery (Ri) is as follows: - the test specimen is stretched by 150% (Smax), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (I), 15 - the stress is released while imposing a return rate equal to the pull rate, i.e. 20 mm/min, and the elongation of the test specimen is measured as a percentage, after returning to zero load (si). The instantaneous recovery in % (Ri) is given 20 by the formula below: Ri = ( (Cmax - Ei) /Emax) X 100 To determine the recovery at 300 seconds, the test specimen which has been subjected to the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an 25 additional 300 seconds and its degree of elongation is measured as a percentage (F300) . The recovery at 300 seconds in % (R 300 ) is given by the formula below: 6

R

300 = ( (3max - 300 ) /Ernax) X 100 A test specimen having the above dimensions is used to measure the Young's modulus or elasticity. Preferably, the Young's modulus is greater than 15 MPa. 5 In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the film-forming polymer or polmers (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably of between 0.1 and 15% by weight and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% 10 by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The film-forming polymer (A) is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyvinyl alcohols and polymers 15 comprising at least one acrylic unit. Preferably, the film-forming polymer or polymers (A) are soluble in an aqueous or aqueous alcoholic medium. The cosmetically acceptable medium is 20 preferably composed of water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, such as alcohols, or mixtures of water and solvent(s), these solvents preferably being C 1

-C

4 alcohols. Mention may be made, among these alcohols, of 25 ethanol or isopropanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred. The composition of the invention can also comprise at least one additive chosen from thickeners, 7 anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, sunscreen agents, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric nonfixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or 5 synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or nonvolatile, linear or cyclic and modified or unmodified silicones, and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair. Of course, a person skilled in the art will 10 take care to choose the optional compound or compounds to be added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, 15 detrimentally affected by the envisioned addition. These compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in pump-action sprays or in aerosol containers, in order to provide for application of the composition in the vaporized form or in the 20 mousse form. Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for fixing or treating the hair. The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be provided in the form of creams, gels, 25 emulsions, lotions or waxes. When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol for the purpose of obtaining a lacquer or a mousse, it 8 comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane, isobutane or pentane, a chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon, and their mixtures. Use may also be made, 5 as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen or compressed air. Use may also be made of mixtures of propellants. Use is preferably made of dimethyl ether. The propellant is advantageously present at a 10 concentration of between 5 and 90% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and more particularly at a concentration of between 10 and 60%. The compositions in accordance with the 15 invention can be applied to dry or wet hair. The invention will be more fully illustrated with the help of the following nonlimiting examples. All percentages are relative percentages by weight with respect to the total weight of the 20 composition and a.m. means active material. EXAMPLE: The following compositions in accordance with the invention are prepared. Composition 1: 25 YAY IEG 973, sold by AIR PRODUCT, neutralized to 100% at with AMP 6% a.m. Water q.s. for 100 g Composition 2: YAY IEG 973, sold by AIR PRODUCT, 9 neutralized to 100% at with AMP 6% Alcohol 50% Water q.s. for 100 g Composition 3: 5 UA 310, sold by SANYO 6% Water q.s. for 100 g Composition 4: UA 310, sold by SANYO 6% Alcohol q.s. for 100 g 10 Composition 5: UA 310, sold by SANYO 6% Alcohol 50% Water q.s. for 100 g The parameters defining the mechanical profile 15 of the compositions are collated in table I below. Table I Composition Y Modulus Elongation Instantaneous Recovery at (in MPa) S (in %) recovery Ri 300 seconds, (in %) R 300 (in %) 1 52 235 50 65 2 18 171 66 78 3 82 656 48 59 4 56 571 59 66 5 81 644 61 66 Compositions 1 to 5 in accordance with the invention are applied to locks of natural chestnut European hair. 20 After packaging these compositions in pump- 10 action sprays and applications with 10 squeezes to locks of natural hair weighing 5 grams, washed and dried beforehand, it is found that these compositions indeed fix the hairstyle and give the hair a pleasant 5 coated feel.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film forming polymer (A) chosen so that the material 5 obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity of 50%, exhibits a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) an elongation at break (sb) of greater 10 than or equal to 160%; (b) an instantaneous recovery (Ri) of between 10 and 68%, (c) a recovery (R 3 oo) at 300 seconds of between 30 and 100%; 15 (d) when the recovery (R 300 ) at 300 seconds is between 45 and 60%, then the elongation at break (Eb) is less than 1 300%, (e) a Young's modulus of greater than 10 MPa, measured at a thickness of 0.5 mm and at a pull rate of 20 20 mm/min.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the Young's modulus is greater than 15 MPa.

3. The composition as claimed in either one 25 of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming [lacuna] or polymers (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably of between 0.1 and 15% by 12 weight and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of 5 the preceding claims, characterized in that the film forming polymer or polymers (A) is (are) chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyvinyl alcohols and polymers comprising at least one acrylic unit. 10

5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises conventional cosmetic additives chosen from thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, 15 sunscreen agents, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric nonfixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or nonvolatile, linear or cyclic and modified or unmodified silicones, 20 and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.

6. An aerosol device comprising the composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims. 25

7. A process for retaining the form of or shaping the hairstyle, characterized in that it comprises the use of the composition in accordance with any one of claims 1 to 5. 13

8. The use of the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5 for the manufacture of a cosmetic hair product, for the purpose of retaining the form of and/or of shaping the hairstyle.