AU1711301A

AU1711301A - Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes

Info

Publication number: AU1711301A
Application number: AU17113/01A
Authority: AU
Inventors: Christine Dupuis; Henri Samain
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 1999-11-19
Filing date: 2000-11-10
Publication date: 2001-05-30
Also published as: CA2391640A1; PL356209A1; FR2801203B1; EP1233741A1; CN1391462A; CN1167404C; FR2801203A1; JP2003527339A; BR0015762A; WO2001035915A1; MXPA02004996A; KR20020050285A; RU2002116369A

Description

WO 01/35915 PCT/FROO/03149 COSMETIC HAIR COMPOSITION WHICH PROVIDES GOOD HOLD PROPERTIES AND WHICH COMPRISES POLYURETHANES A subject matter of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically 5 acceptable medium, at least one polyurethane (A) with specific characteristics. It is also targeted at a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hair using this composition and at its use in the formulation of cosmetic hair products, for example 10 styling products, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, for the purpose of obtaining retention of the form of or shaping of the hairstyle. Mention may be made, among the hair products for fixing the hair which are the most widely available 15 on the cosmetics market, of compositions to be sprayed as an aerosol or as a pump-action spray, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, composed essentially of a solution, generally an alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution, and of a film-forming polymer which is 20 soluble in water or in the alcohol, as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants. However, these hair formulations, such as mousses, gels and, in particular, aerosol sprays and lacquers, intended to retain the form of the hairstyle 25 still do not allow the hairstyle to withstand in a satisfactory manner the various natural movements of everyday life, such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind.

2 The polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or nonionic film-forming polymers which result in the formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle nature. 5 When the polymer is too brittle, the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally less than 2%, and the hold of the hairstyle over time is not assured. To overcome this problem, these polymers have 10 already been blended with plasticizers and more flexible and nonfriable coatings have already been obtained. However, these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that, after deformation, they recover their initial form only to a very slight 15 extent. While the hold of the hairstyle is improved, it is still not satisfactory since the form of the hairstyle changes over time. More satisfactory results in terms of hold have been obtained with compositions comprising a 20 combination of film-forming polymers, such as, for example, a polyvinylcaprolactam polymer and an acrylic polymer. However, these compositions are still not entirely satisfactory, insofar as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties. In addition, it 25 would be desirable to further increase the fixing power. There is therefore a search for cosmetic compositions, in particular for the retention of the 3 form of and/or the fixing of the hairstyle, which provide the hair with, in addition to durable fixing, good cosmetic properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance. 5 Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant Company has discovered that it is possible to overcome the technical problems mentioned above by using specific polymers. A subject matter of the invention is a 10 cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polyurethane (A) chosen so that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium at ambient temperature and at a relative 15 humidity of 50%, exhibits a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) an elongation at break (Cb) of greater than or equal to 500%; (b) an instantaneous recovery (Ri) of between 20 30 and 85%, (c) a recovery (R 300 ) at 300 seconds of between 50 and 100%; (d) a glass transition temperature of less than 40 0 C. 25 Another subject matter of the present invention relates to a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.

4 Yet another subject matter of the present invention relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of cosmetic hair compositions, for the purpose of obtaining retention of the form of or 5 shaping of the hairstyle. The polyurethanes (A) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Sanyo under the name PA Marin UA310 and PA Marin UA200, and the polyurethane sold by Zeneca under the name Neorez 10 R987. The polyurethanes PA Marin UA200 and Neroez R987 are polyether polyurethanes and the polyurethane PA Marin UA310 is a carbonate polyurethane. Within the meaning of the present invention, 15 the term "film obtained by drying at ambient temperature (22 ± 2 0 C) and at a relative humidity of 50% ± 5%" is understood to mean the film obtained under these conditions starting from a mixture comprising 6% of active material (a.m.) of polymer A with ethanol or 20 water, the amount of mixture being adjusted in order to obtain, in a teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500 ± 50 gm. The drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days. The polymers A which are soluble 25 or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water, in a soluble or dispersed form. Within the meaning of the present invention, 5 the degree of elongation at break and the degree of recovery are evaluated by means of the tests described below. To carry out the tensile tests, the film is 5 cut up into test specimens of rectangular shape, with a length of 80 mm and a width of 15 mm. The tests are carried out, on a device sold under the name Lloyd or sold under the name Zwick, under the same temperature and humidity conditions as 10 for the drying, that is to say a temperature of 22 i 20C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 5%. The test specimens are stretched at the rate of 20 mm/min and the distance between the clamping jaws is 50 ± 1 mm. 15 The procedure for determining the instantaneous recovery (Ri) is as follows: - the test specimen is stretched by 150% (Emax), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (I), - the stress is released while imposing a 20 return rate equal to the pull rate, i.e. 20 mm/min, and the elongation of the test specimen is measured as a percentage, after returning to zero load (ci). The instantaneous recovery in % (RI) is given by the formula below: 25 Ri = ( (Fmax - Ci) /Emax) X 100 To determine the recovery at 300 seconds, the test specimen which has been subjected to the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an 6 additional 300 seconds and its degree of elongation is measured as a percentage (8300) The recovery at 300 seconds in % (R 300 ) is given by the formula below: 5

R

300 = ( (Cmax - &300) /Emax) X 100 The glass transition temperature is evaluated using the MDSC 299 device sold by TA Instrument, in standard mode. The glass transition temperature is preferably less than 100C. 10 In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the film-forming polyurethane or polyurethanes (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably of between 0.1 and 15% by weight and more 15 preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The film-forming polyurethane (A) is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes and carbonate 20 polyurethanes. The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably composed of water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, such as alcohols, or mixtures of water and solvent(s), these solvents 25 preferably being CI-C4 alcohols. Mention may be made, among these alcohols, of ethanol or isopropanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred.

7 The composition of the invention can also comprise at least one additive chosen from silicones, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, sunscreen 5 agents, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric nonfixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or nonvolatile, linear or cyclic and modified or unmodified silicones, and any 10 other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound or compounds to be added to the composition according to the 15 invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisioned addition. These compositions can be packaged in various 20 forms, in particular in pump-action sprays or in aerosol devices, in order to provide for application of the composition in the vaporized form or in the mousse form. Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a 25 mousse for fixing or treating the hair. The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be provided in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, lotions or waxes.

8 When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol for the purpose of obtaining a lacquer or a mousse, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen 5 from volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane, isobutane or pentane, a chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon, and their mixtures. Use may also be made, as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen or compressed air. Use 10 may also be made of mixtures of propellants. Use is preferably made of dimethyl ether. The propellant is advantageously present at a concentration of between 5 and 90% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition in the 15 aerosol device and more particularly at a concentration of between 10 and 60%. The compositions in accordance with the invention can be applied to dry or wet hair. The invention will be more fully illustrated 20 with the help of the following nonlimiting example. All percentages are relative percentages by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and a.m. means active material. EXAMPLE: 25 The following compositions in accordance with the invention are prepared. Composition 1: PA Marin UA310, sold by Sanyo f% a.m. Ethanol q.s. for 100 g 9 Composition 2: PA Marin UA 200, sold by Sanyo % Ethanol q.s. for 100 g Composition 3: 5 Neorez R987, sold by Zeneca 6% Ethanol q.s. for 100 g The parameters defining the mechanical profile of the compositions are collated in table I below. 10 Table I Composition Elongation Instantaneous Recovery at Tg c (in %) recovery Ri 300 seconds, (*C) (in %) R 300 (in %) 1 571 59 66 -39 2 711 74 89 -43 3 905 82 92 -49 Compositions 1' to 3' in accordance with the invention and identical to compositions 1 to 3, apart from the fact that they comprise 1.5% of a.m. instead of 6%, are used. 15 After packaging these solutions in pump action sprays and applications with 10 squeezes to locks of natural hair weighing 5 grams washed and dried beforehand, it is found that these compositions indeed fix the hairstyle and give the hair a pleasant coated 20 feel.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film forming polyurethane (A) chosen so that the material 5 obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity of 50%, exhibits a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) an elongation at break (sb) of greater 10 than or equal to 500%; (b) an instantaneous recovery (Ri) of between 30 and 85%, (c) a recovery (R 300 ) at 300 seconds of between 50 and 100%; 15 (d) a glass transition temperature of less than 404C.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the glass transition temperature [lacuna] less than 100C. 20

3. The composition as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming [lacuna] or polyurethanes (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably of between 0.1 and 25 15% by weight and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of 11 the preceding claims, characterized in that the film forming polyurethane or polyurethanes (A) is (are) chosen from the group consisting of polyether polyurethanes and carbonate polyurethanes.

5 5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises conventional cosmetic additives chosen [lacuna] silicones, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, 10 fragrances, preservatives, sunscreen agents, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric nonfixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or nonvolatile, linear or cyclic and modified or 15 unmodified silicones, and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.

6. An aerosol device comprising the composition as claimed in any one of the preceding 20 claims.

7. A process for retaining the form of or shaping the hairstyle, characterized in that it comprises the use of the composition in accordance with any one of claims 1 to 5. 25

8. The use of the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5 for the manufacture of a cosmetic hair product, for the purpose of retaining the form of and/or of shaping the hairstyle.