FR2801203A1 - HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION PROVIDING GOOD HOLD PROPERTIES AND COMPRISING POLYURETHANES - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polyurethane (A) chosen such that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity rate of 50%, has a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) a rate of elongation at break (epsilonr) greater than or equal to 500%, (b) an instant recovery (R i) included between 30 and 85%, (c) a recovery (R300) at 300 seconds between 50 and 100%, (d) a glass transition temperature below 40 degreC.

Description

HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION PROVIDING GOOD

  HOLD PROPERTIES AND COMPRISING POLYURETHANES

  The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyurethane (A) with particular characteristics. It also relates to a process for shaping or maintaining hair using this composition, as well as its use for the formulation of hair cosmetic products, such as styling products such as hairsprays,

  sprays or foams, in order to obtain the maintenance or the shaping of the hairstyle.

  Among the hair products for fixing hair that are most widespread on the cosmetic market, there may be mentioned compositions for spraying in an aerosol or in a pump bottle, such as lacquers, sprays or foams, essentially consisting of a more often alcoholic or hydroalcoholic and of a film-forming polymer

  soluble in water or alcohol, mixed with various cosmetic adjuvants.

  However, these hair formulations such as foams, gels and especially sprays and aerosol lacquers intended to maintain the shape of the hairstyle do not yet allow the hairstyle to resist satisfactorily the various movements.

  natural elements of life such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind.

  The polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or nonionic film-forming polymers, which lead to the

  formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle character.

  When the polymer is too brittle, the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally less than 2% and the resistance of the

  hairstyle is not guaranteed over time.

  To remedy this problem, these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers and obtained more flexible and non-friable coatings. However, these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that after deformation, they recover very little of their initial shape. If the holding of the hairstyle is improved, it is not yet satisfactory since the shape of the hairstyle changes over time. More satisfactory results in terms of resistance have been obtained with compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers, such as for example a polyvinylcaprolactam polymer and an acrylic polymer. However, these compositions are not yet entirely satisfactory, insofar as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties. Furthermore, it would

  desirable to further increase the fixing power.

  Cosmetic compositions are therefore sought, in particular for maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle which provides the hair, in addition to lasting fixation, with good cosmetic properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant has discovered that it is possible to remedy the technical problems mentioned above, by using

special polymers.

  The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polyurethane (A) chosen such that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity rate of 50%, has a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) a rate of elongation at break (Sr) greater than or equal to 500%; (b) an instant recovery (Ri) of between 30 and 85%, (c) a recovery (R300) at 300 seconds of between 50 and 100%,

  (d) a glass transition temperature below 40 OC.

  Another object of the present invention relates to a method of shaping or

  for maintaining the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.

  Yet another object of the present invention relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of hair cosmetic compositions, with a view to obtaining

  maintaining or shaping the hairstyle.

  The polyurethanes (A) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Sanyo under the name PA Marin UA3 10 and PA Marin UA200, as well as

  the polyurethane marketed by Zeneca under the name Neorez R987.

  The polyurethanes PA Marin UA200 and Neroez R987 are polyurethanes

  polyethers, and the polyurethane PA Marin UA3 10 is a carbonate polyurethane.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term film obtained by drying at room temperature (22 + 2 ° C.) and at a relative humidity level of 50% + 5% means the film obtained under these conditions from a mixture at 6% of active material (ai) of polymer A with ethanol or water, the amount of mixture being adapted to obtain, in a Teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500 5 50 lam. Drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days. Polymers A soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in

  ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water in soluble or dispersed form.

  Within the meaning of the present invention, the rate of elongation at break and the rate of

  recovery are evaluated by means of the tests described below.

  To carry out the tensile tests, the film is cut into shape test pieces

  rectangular, 80 mm long and 15 mm wide.

  The tests are carried out on a device marketed under the name Lloyd or marketed under the name Zwick under the same temperature and humidity conditions as for drying, that is to say a temperature of 22 + 2 C and a rate

relative humidity of 50 + 5%.

  The test pieces are drawn at a speed of 20mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 + 1 mm. To determine the instantaneous recovery (Ri), we proceed as follows: - we stretch the test piece by 150% (amax) i.e. 1.5 times its initial length (Io) - we release the constraint by imposing a speed return equal to the traction speed, i.e. 20mm / min and the elongation of the test piece is measured in percentage, after

return to zero charge (Ei).

  The instantaneous recovery in% (Ri) is given by the following formula: Ri = ((max- Ei) / max) X 100 To determine the recovery at 300 seconds, we maintain at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds, the test tube having undergone the operations

  previous, and we measure its elongation rate in percentage (ú300).

  The recovery at 300 seconds in% (R30oo) is given by the following formula: R300 = ((max - 8300) / max) X 100 The glass transition temperature is evaluated using the MDSC 299 device marketed by TA Instrument, in standard mode. Preferably, the temperature of

  glass transition is less than 10 C.

  In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the film-forming polyurethane (s) (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the film-forming polyurethane (A) is chosen from the group comprising polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyurethane carbonates. The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably constituted by water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as alcohols or

  water-solvent (s) mixtures, these solvents preferably being CI-C4 alcohols.

  Among these alcohols, mention may be made of ethanol and isopropanol. Ethanol is

particularly preferred.

  The composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive chosen from silicones, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins , anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones, modified or not, and any other additive conventionally used in the compositions cosmetics intended for

be applied to the hair.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not

  not or not substantially, altered by the proposed addition.

  These compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in pump dispensers or in aerosol devices, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for fixing or treating the hair. The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be in the form of creams, gels,

  emulsions, lotions or waxes.

  When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain a lacquer or a foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air can also be used as a propellant. It is also possible to use mixtures of

  propellants. Preferably, dimethyl ether is used.

  Advantageously, the propellant is present at a concentration of between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the device

  aerosol and, more particularly, at a concentration of between 10 and 60%.

  The compositions according to the invention can be applied to

dry or damp hair.

  The invention will be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following nonlimiting example. All percentages are relative percentages by weight relative to

  total weight of the composition and m.a. means active ingredient.

EXAMPLE:

  The following compositions are produced in accordance with the invention.

  Composition 1: PA Marin UA 310 marketed by Sanyo 6% ma Ethanol qs 100 g Composition 2: PA Marin UA 200 marketed by Sanyo 6% Ethanol qs 100 g Composition 3 Neorez R987 marketed by Zeneca 6% Ethanol qs 100 g The parameters defining the mechanical profile of the compositions are collected

in Table I below.

Table I

  Composition Elongation s (in Recovery Recovery at 300 Tg (C)%) instantaneous Ri (in seconds, R300 (in

1,571 59 66 -39

2,711 74 89 -43

3,905 82 92 49

  Compositions 1 ′ to 3 ′ are used in accordance with the invention and identical to compositions 1 to 3, except that they contain 1.5% of m.a. instead of 6%. After packaging of these solutions in pump bottles and applications of 10 pressures on locks of natural hair of 5 grams previously washed and dried, it is found that these compositions fix the hairstyle well and give the hair

a pleasant sheathed touch.

Claims (8)

  1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polyurethane (A) chosen such that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity level 50%, has a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) a rate of elongation at break (st) greater than or equal to 500%; (b) an instant recovery (Ri) of between 30 and 85%, (c) a recovery (R300) at 300 seconds of between 50 and 100%,   (d) a glass transition temperature below 40 C.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the   glass transition temperature below 10 C.   3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized by the fact that the film-forming polyurethanes (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between   0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized by the fact that the film-forming polyurethane (s) (A) is (are) chosen   in the group comprising polyether polyurethanes, carbonate polyurethanes.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized by the fact that it also contains conventional cosmetic additives chosen from silicones, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins , anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones, modified or not, and any other additive conventionally used in the compositions   cosmetics intended to be applied to the hair.   6. Aerosol device containing a composition according to any one of previous claims.   7. Method for maintaining or shaping the hairstyle, characterized in that it comprises the use of a composition in accordance with any one of claims I to 5.   8. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5,   for the manufacture of a hair cosmetic product, with a view to maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle.