US615500A - Coat-pad - Google Patents

Description

No. 6l5,500. Patented Dec. 6, |898. C. W. SCHWEICHLER.

COAT PAD` (Application filed Dec. 2B, 1897.)

(No Model.)

MKWM

UNITEDr STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CARL W. SCIIWEICHLER, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

COAT-PAD.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 615,500, dated December 6, 1898. Application filed December `28, 1897. Serial No. 663,856. (No model.)

T0 all whom, t may concern:

Be it known that I, CARL W. SCHWEICH- LER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Coat-Pads; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

` My invention relates to wearing-apparel, and is directed to improvemen ts in pads which are especially designed for employment `in coats to shape the shonlderand adjacent portions; and my invention has for its object to so construct a pad as to insure a perfect fit at this part of the garment.

The nature of my invention will be readily comprehended from the following detailed description when the same is read in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Figure l is a view in elevation of a portion of a coat, the dotted lines indicating the form and location of my improved pad. Fig. 2 is a view of the pad before being secured in position. Fig. 3 is a top view of the pad, showing the rear shoulder extension; and Fig. 4 is a sectional view on line 4 4 of Fig. 2.

Referring to the said drawings by letter, A denotes the pad,l and B the rear shoulder extension.

Two forms of pads are indicated in Fig. 1 the line showing the outline of pad for use in a coat having a stid front extending to the edge, and y is the line of the pad for a softroll-front sack-coat, for a freek-coat, or for an overcoat. Obviously the size of the pad is dependent upon the size of the coat.

The materials of the pad-are two plies a a of canvas, or, if desired, one ply of canvas and one of haircloth, and preferably the bodyply is so cut as to present the selvage or straight edge of the canvas at the front of the coat, and on these plies are laid one ply of cotton wadding and one ply of felt or padding. These plies are in the order stated basted together for convenience in handling and are then stitched in an overcasting or zigzag sewing-machine.

It will be observed by reference to Fig. 4 that the pad when in place presents the canvas or body ply next to the cloth of the garment and that the felt or padding ply is against the garment-lining. In order that the pad may conform properly to the breast of the wearer, it is necessary that it be made with a slight concavity, and this is effected in the following manner: The pad is placed in the zigzag-machine with the canvas ply undermost, and the line of stitching is commenced at the point b on the shoulder extension and carried to point a2 on the arm hole edge of the pad, the line following the curved line e', which indicates the beginning of the shoulder extension. From this point the stitching is continued in circular or approximately circular lines backward and forward, as shown, and during the stitching op.- erations the portion of the pad near the shoulder extension is raised, and the padding or felt is kept taut. By this method the pad is given a dished or concave form in erosssec' tion as compared with the flat form of pad, which results in the employment of vertical lines of stitching.

At or adjacent to the point a2 on the pad I provide a V-shaped gash c and on the shoulder-line near the neck-opening a similarlyshaped gash d. The function of these gashes is to obtain a perfect lit of the garmentover the shoulder and around the armhole and to allow of easy movement of the arm and-shoulder. The cuts are made in the iirst ply of canvas, which is incapable of stretching, and are on an average from one and one-half to two inches in depth, thus allowing from onehalf to three-fourths of an inch stretch in the padding. e f denote what I term subgashes, which are provided in the second ply of canvas or haircloth, dependent upon which material is employed. These subgashes are made at points from one to one and one-half inches at each side of the gash proper', with the result of giving a uniform stretch at this portion of the pad. g is a piece of silesia or like material which is placed at the gashes and between the two plies of canvas or the plies of canvas and haircloth.

In stitching the pad the felt and wadding or padding or similar material under the canvas at the gash c is stretched, say, threefourths of an inch. When the sleeve is sewed into the armhole, the seam over the gash c is IOO stretched about three-fourths of aninch.

The back part of the coat onthe, shoulderseam is held slightly full over the point of gash d. The cloth covering the fore part of the shoulder must be stretched at the shoulder-seam about one-half inch, so that an easy fit around the collar and" shoulders willresult.

The shoulder extension is an integral part of the pad proper and is formed by extending the materials of the pad, as shown. This extension is, however, provided with a number of ext-ra plies of Waddng, which diminish gradually in Width and give tothe under side of the extension a convex form, Whichenters the hollow place on the shoulder of the wearer. The extra plies are lettered h, i, and j` and are securedl by. being bastedat the armhole ed ge, andi when the sleeve is sewed in the edge nearest the armhole is basted-in the-armhol'eseam.

Mfy improved pad, as previously stated, Will be made inf sizes` for dilerent size and shape coats. With the use. ofy the pad not onlyv is a perfect fit obtained, bu-t the arm and' shoulder are permitted'. free movement without impairing the shape of the garment.

I cla-im as my invention- 1. A coat-pad made up. of plies of stretching and; non-stretchingmaterials secured together by substantially circular lines of stitching to give a concave form to the pad, the

plies of stretching material being superim- A posed. on the other plies, gashes and subgashes in the plies ofnon-stretching material,

and a shoulder extension integralA with the ipad and provided with additional plies of material gradually diminished in size and stitched together at the edge only, substantially as described.

scribed;

In testimony whereof Ig affix my signature in presence ofI tWoWi-tnesses.

@ARL SClilAW-EIIGJHIEER. Witnesses:

GHAs. A. WILLI-AMS', A. J. TURN-BULL.

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