US454167A - harmon - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

L. HARMON.

CORSET.

No. 454,167. Patented June 16, 1891.

h'i'ila Y w/ (N0 Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

L. HARMON.

CORSET.

No. 454,167. Patented June '16, 1891.

' U NIT-ED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LOIS-HARMON, OF MARSHALLTOWN, IOIVA, ASSIGNOR 0F ONE-HALF TO DAVID T. DENMEAD, OF SAME PLACE.

CORSET.

' SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 454,167, dated June 16, 1891.

Application filed October 11, 1890. Serial No. 367,801. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, LOIS HARMON,a citizen of the United States, and residing at Marshalb town, in the county of Marshall and State of Iowa, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Combined Corselet and Skirt and Hose Supporters, which are fully set forth in the following,specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which-- Figure 1 represents a front elevation of my improved corselet; Fig. 2, a side elevation of the same; Fig. 3,arear elevation of the same; Fig. 4, a vertical section of the bosom-form detached, taken on the line 4: 4 of Fig. 1; Fig. 5, a detail section taken on the line 5 5 of Fig. 4.; Fig. 6,a detail section taken on the line 6 6 of Fig. 1; Fig.7, a detail plan section taken on the line 7 7 of Fig. 3 ,Fig. 8, a perspective view of the skirt-supporter detached and closed; Fig. 9, a similar view of the same opened, and Fig. 10a modification of Fig. 5. Figs.

1, 2, and 3 are upon one scale, and the remaining figures upon another and enlarged scale.

My invention relates to a garment to take the place of ordinary corsets, the object being to obviate the objectionable features of corsets, and at the same time retain the main advantages which are attributed to this article of wearing apparel.

I will describe in detail the construction of a garment in which I have embodied my invention in a practical way, and will then point out definitely in claims the special improvements which I believe to be new and wish to secure by Letters Patent.

In the drawings,-A represents the body of the corselet. This portion of the garment is a simple waist, consisting of two parts a, which are to be fastened together by any suitable fastening devices a. front and back, as indicated in Figs. 1 and The upper line of this waist is nearly straight at front and intended to fit the person just below the bosom. Each part a extends back thence below the arms nearly straight for a little distance, and is then curved upward toward the shoulder at the back and then again cut away, so as to make quite a sharp curve downward at the back, as seen in Fig. 3, thus providing a rather narrow projecting point a at the back of the garment, reaching up toward each shoulder, with the space between these two projections largely cut down, as clearly shown in Fig. At the front each half a of the waist is constructed so as to provide a comparatively narrow strip or tongue a extending downward about in line with the bosom-form when attached, these tongues being of sufficient length to reach down upon the lower limbs directly in front. The waist is also provided at the rear with similar strips or projections a which are intended to extend downward upon the limbs directly at the back thereof, though these back strips are not intended to be as long as those in front. This waist is made of plain simple fabric without stays of steel, bone, or any other like material. For the purpose of strengthening this portion of the garment, however, the joining seams of the different pieces composing the waist, preferably all of them, are.

corded. There are three of these seams in each half of the waist, designated in the draw ings by Figs. 1, 2, and 3, commencing at the front. The construction of one of these seams is shown in Fig. 6. For the same purpose lines of cord 4 may also be run down in front near each edge of the piece a, and similar cords 5 in each half near the back edge of the seam. This cording of the waist is simply for the purpose of giving additional strength to the fabric and to preserve the form of the garment. and leaves the latter still perfectly soft and flexible, so that the waist is perfectly easy and comfortable to the wearer.

A bosom-form B is secured to each waist half a, at the front thereof, as seen in Fig. 1. These forms 13 are of peculiar construction and constitute one of the main features of my invention, the object being to avoid the use of steel strips or any other like stay-strips of any hard material, and at the same time to provide a form which will substantially retain its. shape. I accomplish this result by making these bosom or bust forms of corded fabric, which I make especially for this purpose. This fabric is obtained by placing cords 1) side by side and parallel with each other between two thicknesses of fabric b b and then stitching the latter together by lines of stitching 1) between the cords, as seen in Figs. a and 5; or it may be made by arranging the parallel cords on a single thickness and fastening them together by stitching through the cords and fabric either crosswise or lengthwise, as seen in Fig. 10. This last construction is the one preferred. The cords are an ranged so that when this part of the garment is completed they will all run in a horizontal direction from side to side. In order to obtain the desired shape, these forms must of course be composed of several pieces or gores. In the drawings each form is shown composed of four separate pieces or sections, which. are secured together by vertical seams bf. To give additional support and firmness to the form, these seams are also corded, the cords C being substantially at right angles to the horizontal cords b and arranged on the inside of the form and protected by a covering 0, which is stitched at the edges and between the cords to the outer fabric, as seen in Fig. 7 ,in which three of these stay-cords are shown, though the number is a matter of judgment. Each bust-form is covered with a plain fabric D, so as to give a smooth exterior surface next to the gown. A further improvement in the construction of these bust-forms is in making them of four separate pieces, instead of three, as heretofore. In my construction, as shown in the drawings, each form is composed of the four pieces I) b 1) b Ileretofore the two center pieces U Z) have been contained in one piece; but by making two pieces, each of which is out as a gore, a much better shape is obtained, this result being facilitated by the curved central seam down the center of the bust. The shoulder-straps E are fastened at the back to the projecting points ct. At the front a short piece of elastic webbing E is attached tothe upper edge of each bust-form and is provided with a buckle e, by which the shoulder-strap is fastened thereto; or the straps may be all elastic webbin Strips of elastic webbing F are also fastened by buckles f to the lower ends of the four depending strips (o a and are provided at their lower ends with any suitable elasps 1, adapted for attachment to the hose, both in front and atthe back. Skirt-supporters G are also secured to the front and back of each waist-section a'by means of short tapes II. These supporters are of peculiar construction. They are formed of a single narrow strip of thin metal g, which is bent upon itself at the middle and is provided with. a sliding loop or keeper g, which is slipped over the folded strip and is then movable back and forth thereon. The end of the inner half of the strip is provided with prongs or pins 9 preferably made in one piece, secured in any suitable way to the strip and arranged with the points projecting inward between the two sheets of metal, as seen in Figs. 8 and 9. In bending the metal strip it is passed into a small wire loop 7L, by which this supporter is secured to the tapes 11. These supporters are fastened to the waist in any convenient position at front and back for attachment to the skirt, which is readily elfected by slipping the loop 9 to the upper end of the supporter, as seen in Fig. 9, when obviously the skirt is readily caught upon the pins at the lower end. The loop is then slipped down, as seen in Fig. 8, thereby closing the outer leaf of the strip upon the points of the pin, completely covering and protecting them and also preventing any detachment of the skirt therefrom, so that this device forms a complete safety supporter for the skirts. These supporters are fastened in front justin line with the central sea-n1 of the bust forms above and at the back they are very nearly in line with the points of attachment for the shoulder-straps. The strain, therefore, upon the skirt-supporters will be almost in a direct line with the central seam of ihe bust-forms and this arrangement serves also to assist in preserving the latter in the desirable shape. The resistance also of the shoulder-straps on the upper edge of the bust-forms puts these forms under strain transversely of the cording, which is of the least support against collapsing vertieally, and the special arrangement of the straps and supports in connection with the transverse cording and the plain flexible waist tends to keep the corset in shape in all directions.

The pins at the lower ends of the skirtsupporters may be formed in one piece with the metallic strip by cutting out the end suitably for this purpose and bending up the projections or points thus obtained.

The ends of the webbing for the shoulderstraps or any other straps about the garment may be readily secured by a small fasteningelip I, which is simply a small strip of thin metal with each end pointed and bent at right angles to the center. This clamp is applied by turning in slightlythe end of the webbing and then forcing the two points i through the thicknesses of the fabric and bending them. down flatly on the other side.

Some modifications may be made in. the construction of this garment, as herein described and shown, without losing the main improvements which I have made. And in some instances where the garment is intended for very stout women, a small slight strip of steel may be used at the central seam of the bustforms, and even if found. necessary upon other of the seams upon the front of these portions of the garment. I prefer, however,if possible to dispense with all such devices of steel, bone, and other like material, and when this is accomplished it will be seen. that a garment is obtained which must be easy and comfortable to the wearer, while the bust-forms constructed as described, and having the peculiarities set forth, give the garment all the desirable features which are claimed for corsets. The articles of apparel requiring support are all supported by this easy waist, as will be seen by the description. The formation of the two parts composing the back of the garment also provides a deep depression or cut in the central part of the garment at the back, thereby avoiding the straight, stiff, uncomfortable line so frequently seen in corsets and other like garments.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. The waist-body A, in combination with bust-forms B, composed of solidly-corded fabric, the cords of which run horizontally of the waist, and shoulder-straps E, connecting the upper ends of said forms to-the back of the waist, whereby the bust-forms are put under strain across the lines of the cording, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

2. The bust-forms B, composed of four separate pieces I), 6, b and b of solidly-corded fabric, the two center pieces being joined on acentral line extending from top to bottom of each form, in combination with the waist A and straps E, attached to the forms about on the said central line and connecting them to the back of the waist, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

3. The waist-body A, in combination with the bust-forms B, composed of solidly-corded fabric, the cords of which run horizontally of the waist and secured at their lower ends to the waist, the shoulder-straps connected to the upper ends of said forms about on a central vertical line thereof, and hosesupporters attached to strips or tongues a extending down from the waist nearly in line with the said central line of the forms, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

4. The Waist A, in combination with the bust-forms B, of solidly-corded fabric, the cords of which run horizontally of the waist, secured at their lower ends to the waist, the shoulder-straps E, connected to the upper ends of said forms about centrally thereof, and skirt-supporters G, attached to the waist in front about in line with the central Vertical line of the forms and at the back about in line with the shoulder-straps, whereby the strain of said supporters upon the waist is about upon said central line of the forms, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

LOIS HARMON. Witnesses:

GERTRUDE'DENMEAD,

HATTIE DENMEAD.

Images