US1324987A - Gael j - Google Patents

Description

C. J. SVENSON.

COAT 0R LlKE GARMENT;

APPLlCATlON FILED MAY 26, I919.

1,324,987. Patented Dec, 16, 1919.

M INVENTOR Car/.Zflwwm ATTORNEY UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

' CARL J. SVENSON, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

GOAT 0R LIKE GARMENT.

Application filed May 26, 1919.

sons shoulders.

2. To provide a novel and effective method of seaming together thefront and back of a coat or similar article of apparel which .will enable the tailor to work the cloth in one .piece over either shoulder and join the several parts of the garment on such lines as will insure a correct fit and preclude distortion of the cloth fibers. v

3. To obtain an improved staying effect upon the fore and rear pieces of the coat by uniting them through. the medium of relatively long seams running in one plane in front of the garment.

4. To reduce the time required to com plete the tailoring of the garment.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent as the specification, proceeds.

With the aforesaid objects in view, the invention consists of the novel combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described in their preferred embodiments,

pointed out in the subjoined claims, and

illustrated on the annexed drawing, wherein like parts are designated by the same reference characters throughout the several views. V

In the said drawing Figure I is aview showing the shape in whichjone ofthe fore-pieces are cut, that are included in the making of a coatthe left section; V

II is a similar view of one of the rear sections intended to be joined to the fore-piece shown in the preceding view;

Fig. III is a top plan view, disclosmg the seams which unite the front and rear sections of the coat on both sides of the neck,

the collar' being shown in dot-and-dash lines, and'the sleeves omitted; and

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 16, 1919.

Serial No. 299,798.

join together the fore and back pieces by a seam commencing at the side of the neck and extending toward the upper edge of the arm-hole. Sometimes the seam deviates an inch or two in front orin rear ofvthe shoulder ridge. .Workers in the tailoring trade generally agree that the most difficult part in fashioninga coat is to obtain a neat and easy fitting shoulder that will afford the wearer complete satisfaction both with regard to comfort and to appearance.

The customary way, of reducing the surplus cloth where the upper extremities of the rear and front pieces are joined is to slightly deflect the seam thereof,more 'or less forwardly of the shoulder ridge,'the deflection commencing at a point about one third to half the length of the shoulder seam inwardly from where it is met by'the sleeve. But, this procedure is apt to result in causing. a binding effect of the coat at the shoulders in front. In order to rectify the effect produced, the tailor usually resorts'topressing and stretching the cloth adjacent to the partly straight and partly bent shoulder seam. He also gathers in theedges of the sleeves to considerable extent, .at the curve where the circumferential seams'thereof adjoin the front portion of the shoulder. The method of fitting'here referred to may'produce fairly good results, provided it be carried out by skilled workmen using soft material of good quality. Nevertheless, when the efi'ects of the pressing and stretching disappear in damp or rainy weather, the

fullness of the cloth that was previously 7 Not only is there a great dealof time wasted in the fitting of the garment, but the latter requires constant attention to keep it in pressed condition.

As distinguished from the prevailing method in the making of coats in the manner hereinbefore described, the present invention contemplates an improved method of manufacture according to which a coat'or like article of wearing apparel is made with a seam for connecting the rear and fore sections thereof, which is located entirely in front of the shoulder ridge. This seam by preference begins forwardly of the ridge and extends downwardly in an oblique direction on the upper portion of the chest to or near the bottom part of the arm hole just above the lower edge of the adjoining sleeve seam. The customary shoulder ridge seam is dispensed with and the cloth is cut so that each rear piece of the coat is formed with an integral gusset or flap of a size sufficiently large to extend over the shoulder and down in front thereof where it is joined to the fore-piece which has been correspondingly cut on a line forming the continuation of the arm-hole so as to receive the said gusset or flap. The meeting edges of the flap and cutout portion of the fore-piece are secured to each other by the obliquely directed seam above described. In assembling the parts, the grain and fibers of the cloth meet to better advantage than is the case with the old process of joining the garment pieceson the shoulder ridge. It is easier to manipulate or work over the cloth in the flap because of the comparatively short length of the fibers therein. Furthermore, the relatively long seam fastening the flap to the fore-piece will stay the parts so as to make them retain always their original shape.

A coat embodying the principles of the invention may be said to consist mainly of four parts, to wit, two front sections A and A and two rear sections B and B It will be sufiicient in describing the invention to refer merely to the front section A and the corresponding rear section B, since the two halves of the coat are cut, fitted and completed in the same manner.

In carrying out the invention, the said section A is out out at the upper part thereof so as to form a curved line designated by the reference numerals 1 to 5 inclusive. This line produces a much deeper cut inthe coat section than is usually the case in manufacturing a coat according to the old method.

The said section B is provided at its upper end with a laterally and upwardly projecting extension I), which is integral with the main section. This extension may be called a gusset or flap, which is of a shape to enable it to be conjoined with the curved cutout portion of the above described section A. Thus the uppermost line of the gusset or flap 6 is slightly curved from the points respectively marked 1*, 2 and 3 to conform with the parts of the curve in the section A that are marked 1, 2 and 3, respectively. Below the said line, the sections B and its said flap Z) are formed with another curved line extending from 3- to 5 which taken in conjunction with the bottom part of the curve in the section A, as indicated by the numeral 4 constitute the arm-hole of the coat, that is, the part thereof where the sleeve C is attached.

-When fitting the fore and rear parts of the coat together the gusset or flap Z) is placed over the shoulder of the pe1 "son and united with the cut-away portion 1 to 3 by a seam d, which as shown runs from the neck down obliquely across the upper part of the chest to or near the lower margin of the arm-hole as indicated at 3. The lowermost portion of the arm-hole is represented by the numeral 4. In other respects, the coat is made and trimmed in the ordinary manner. For instance, the usual collar E is provided, the same overlying the upper end of the oblique seam (Z. The two rear halves B and B are joined to each other by a common seam f as appears in Fig. 111.

As represented by dotted lines in Figs. 1, II and III, the grain and fibers in the cloth do not run in the same direction in the flap or gusset Z2 as in the contiguous portion of the upper part of the garments front-piece to which it is attached. The fibers are designated by the numerals 7 and 8 respectively. It will be observed, however, that the ends of the respective fibers meet at a rather obtuse angle and this feature taken in connection with the short length of the fibers in the flap 1) permits the ready manipulation or working over of the cloth to efiect the desired fit. The long seam (Z uniting the parts mentioned, serves to stay them properly in their respective positions.

vVhile a certain preferred embodiment of this device has been shown and described, it will be understood that changes in the form, arrangements, proportions, sizes and details thereof may be made, without departing from the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Having described my invention what I I desire to secure by Letters Patent and claim,

1. A garment of the class described, having seamless shoulders from the collar to the sleeve opening and including front and rear sections joined to one another, said front sections being cut out on lines forming continuations of the arm-holes, said rear sections being provided with extensions reaching over the persons shoulders and received in the cuts along said lines, and seams uniting said extensions to the corresponding parts of the front sections, said seams cominencing at the neck below the shoulder ridges thence running obliquely. downward across the upper portion of the chest on each side thereof and terminating at the lower edges of the arm-holes, the sides and upper edges of the said openings being:

bounded by the upper portion of the front section, and the rear portion and the extension of the latter.

2. A garment of the class described, including front sections having cut-away portions extending up inwardly from the lower edges of the arm-holes to points at the sides of the neck below the shoulders, rear sections formed with integral flaps designed to reach over the persons shoulders down into said cut-away portions, said rear sections with their said flaps bordering the major parts of said arm-holes, said flaps constituting the upper front portions of the garment from the sides of the neck to the arm-holes,

and seams running from said lower edges of the latter to the above named points so as to join the flaps to the adjacent cut-away portions of said front sections, whereby seams are avoided over the shoulder ridges.

3. A garment of the class described comprising front and rear sections joined together, one of said sections being of greater length than the other so as to extend over the shoulder to meet and be stitched to the other section, and the meeting edges of the said sections extending obliquely from the collar portion of the garment to the sleeve opening thereof.

CARL J. SVENSON.

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