US4367A - Cutting ladies dbesses - Google Patents

Description

varm hole shown on this diagram:

UNTTTD .STATTS PATENT OTTTCEf HIRAM SEGER, OF MACON, GEORGIA.

cUTTInG LADIES DREssEs.

Specication of Letters Patent No. 4,367, dated January 28, 1846.

' tion.

The nature of my invent-ion consists in forming a couple of patterns; No. l, being the shape for one half the front of the bodice of a ladys dress, from the center of the front to the seam descending from the lower part of the arm hole; and No. 2 being a pattern for one half the back of a bodice, from the seam under the arm to the center of the back. These patterns are laid off with scales, with holes in them through the same-the scales being placed in such positions, and the openings in the same, for clotting through on to the cloth, being placed at such distances, that the patterns can be reduced to suit persons of every size, and yet preserve the shape and nproportio-n of the patterns, and adapt them to every shape and size of form of person.

Description of pattern No. 1.-The star is placed at the bottom of that portion olii the is placed at the top of the same, there is a slight swell or outward curve from P, to O. O, is placed at the shoulder point. The union of the space between P and O, with the space between corresponding letters on Figure 2, forms the seam on the top of the shoulder extending from the neck to the shoulder point. L, is placed at the top of the seam descending from the center of the front of the bodice, to the point'K at its lower extremity. E, is placed on the line extending from L, to K, represents the front seam, the space to the right of the line is turned under. rlhe space between O, and L, is ho-llowed o-ut to suit the taste of dierent persons, making the dress high or low in the neck and bosom. From K, to S, is a diagonal line extending one half the width of the front point of the dress. S, H, B,

ward. Scale B, on pattern No. l, is placed in a vertical line immediately o-ver thestar,

with its lower end abouttwo` and a half inches above thesa-me; this scale is four and inches in length,and is'div-ided into fifteen equal parts:v at each division a punctureis made through the patternfor .marking throughon to the cloth on which 4it is placed. The-:divisions in this scale are numbered from the bottom, upward: commencingwith the number tenat thebottomkpuncture,and

continuing in regular succession upwardtwenty-four being the last number. Scale C, commences two and inches to the right of the star, and one inch below Vthe same, ex? tending upward from this point at an angle to the right, of about seventyiive degrees with the scale B: this scale is live inches` inv length, and divided into the same number of equal divisions, puncturedV and numbered from the botto-m towardthe top, inthe same manner as scale B. Scale A, commences, a half an inch from shoulder point O, and extends downward nearly in an exact line toward the star: this scale is seven and inches in length, and divided into t-he same number of equal parts, punctured and numbered from the bottom to the top in the same manner as scales B and O. f Scale VD, commences two inches below the top of-line E, and about a half inch to the rightof the same, and extends to the left in a direction at right angles with scale B; this scale isSlf inches long and is dividedinto sixteen equal parts, and is punctured and numbered from the left to the right,-commencing at the number ten-in the sameinanner as the scales previously described. The scale F, extends along the side S,`H, ofthe gore, parallel with the same, and terminates an inch above the point at letter S. This scale is eight inches in length, and is divided into sixteen equal parts; is punctured and-numbered from the top downward, commencing at the same number as the other scales. f f' Description of pattern or diagram No. 2.-The red line y, is the guide fortheback seam,'that\portion of the pattern-to the left, is taken in. The scale A is placed lengthwise centrally on this line, its upper end about halfl an inch below the topA of the same; this scale is live anda half inches in length, and is divided into fteen equal parts, is punctured and numbered fromthe bottom to the top, commencing at the numvber ten, in the same manner as scale B, on

pattern No. l, above described. From the notch at the top of line y, to the shoulder point O, forms the top of the back of the bodice, and is a straight linefrom the shoulder point O, to the point l), is the exact length and shape of that part of the edge of pattern No. l, between vthe same letters, and is united with it forming the seam on the top of the shoulder. P is placed j at thetop of one half the arm hole, and

letter V, at the bottom of the same, the

The scale B, commences an inch and quarter below the point O, and descendsdown ward bearing toward the left at an angle of seventy five degrees from said point, withthe scale Agscale B, is 5.1; inches in length, and is divided into sixteen equal parts, is punctured and numbered from the bottom to the top in the same lnanner of the scales before described. Scale C, commences at point P at the upper part of the arm hole, and extends down toward the center of the pattern at an angle of about forty five de-` grees, with Athe back seam line y; this scale is divided into fifteen equal parts and is punctured and numbered from its inner end to the outer, in the same manner as the other scales before described. Scale D, commences about an inch in a horizontal direction to the left of the letter V, at the bottom of the arm hole, and extends to the left in a horizontal direction; this scale is ve and three fourth inches in length, and is divided int-o fifteen equal parts; is punctured and numbered from its inner end toward the outer, in the same manner as the other scales before described.

Directions for taking the measure of of.`

lady, preliminary to cutting a dress upon 'my improved pian-1st. Place the end of a tape measure at the backA of the neck on the socket or neck joint, and carry it down vertically to the bottom of the waist, for the length of the same. 2nd. Place the end of the measure close under the arm, and bring it down plumb on to the hip joint. 3rd. Place the end of the measure at the back of the neck, on neck joint or socket, bring it over the shoulder and down in front as low as you desire the front central po-int of the body of the dress to come. 4th. Measure around the waist and mark down one half the size. 5th. Measure around the Waist and set down one half the size :-this last is` the governing, measure which is always marks upon the cloth, through each punci ture or opening having that number opposite it, in every scale on the sheet-likewise i make a dot through the opening in the star in all cases. When this is done, raise the sheet, and draw the outlines from dot to dot, bythe outer edges of the diagram opposite the scales through which the do-ts were made.. I apply the third measure as follows: In the first place, deduct from the amount the width of the back, as shown by the distance between the numbers, 18, on scales A and B, on diagram No. 2, `then apply one end of the measure to the dot made through scale A, (Sheet No. 1,) and carry down the same on the line drawn from the dot made through scale D, to the dot made through scale F, making a mark where the 3rd measure, as corrected, terminates, which will be the length of the front of the body of the dress: then place the point at the bottom of line E, on the last mark made, and form the front point of the body of the dress by the sheet. -I form the gore as follows: Place your tape measure about one inch vertically below the dot made through the star, and bring it horizontally across to the front line; then double your measure and make a mark half way between the points connected by the measure. At this mark place the top H, of the gore, and form the sides by sheet. The right hand side of the gore should just touch the left hand corner (S) of the front point of the body. The 4th or waist measure is applied as follows: Take one half the waist measure as marked on your memorandum, or one fourth the en tire measure around the waist, and place it at the front point of the body, carry it to the left, deducting the gore,y until you form a junction with the 2nd, measure taken, descending from the dot made through the star, at this point of junction make a mark: to this mark applythe lower corner Q, of the diagram, the back side of the same, touchingthe dot made through the star, then draw a line by the back of the sheet from one mark to the other-likewise form ,the bottom of the body by the bottom ofthe through C, up to the dot made through scale B. Where a person is large around the breast and very small in the waist, it will be necessaryto out out two gores, the second gore, being represented by dotted lines on this diagram (No. l).

The fore part of the dress body is now ready for cutting out, if the above directions have been complied with. The fore part of the bottom of waist of the body should be drafted from one and half to two inches larger than one fourth the waist measure. It is deemed unnecessary to give a draft of the sleeve, as every one must be aware that the fashion changes once or twice a year. I would therefore recommend to every one learning this system to apply to some mantuamaker for the latest fashion. The patterns or diagrams should be constructed of strong pasteboard.

Directions for drafting the back of a lady/s dress-First draw a straight line on the cloth, then place pattern No. 2, upon the same in such a position that the seam line 1/ will be exactly over the line on the cloth; while the diagram is in this position, dot on the cloth through all the scales on the sheet, through the apertures opposite the same numbers, dotted through in pattern No. l, for the forepart ofthe dress, viz. the governing measure; then raise the pattern and place the top of seam line y, on the dot made through scale A, and' draw a line by the top of the sheet to the dot made through scale B; next place the shoulder point O, of the pattern at the dot made through scale B, and draw a line by the edge ofthe pattern bet-Ween O and P, to lthe dot made through scale C. Place the curved edge of the pattern between scales C and D, so as to touch the dots made through these two scales, and draw the curved line between the two by the edge of the pattern. Apply the first measure taken by measuring the dis? tance from the dot made through scale A, on the seam line y, and make a mark for the depth of the waist. The side seam under the arm I obtain as follows: Take the front part of the dress body, already cut out, and place the lower part of the arm hole on the same, at the lower part of the arm hole on the back part of the dress body I am marking out; then place the measuring tape on the mark made on seam line y for the bottom of the waist, and apply the fourth or waist measure to the two parts of the dress as follows: Ivary the position of the lower part of the front part of the body in or out- (keeping the shoulder points together) until the half of the 4th measure will extend eX- actly from the mark on the seam line y, to the point Q, on the front part of the body. I then make a mark on the cloth at the place where the lower back corner Q, of the forepart rests; to this mark I apply the corner IV, of the pattern No. 2, and draw a curved line by the edge of the sheet upward to the dot made through scale D at the bottom of the arm hole. I nextl draw a line by the bottom ofthe pattern No. 2 from the mark made at corner l/V, to mark on the seam line y, and the back part of the body is then ready for cutting out.

Having thus fully described my system of forming and cutting the ybodies of ladies dresses, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

l. The form of the patterns Nos. 1 and 2, and the arrangement of the graduating open scales upon the same, for'adapting the patterns to persons of different sizes, constructed and operating substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein set forth.

Q. I also claim the manner of applying the several measures taken in obtaining the size of a ladys fo-rm, by means of the patterns and scales, so as to shape the dierent parts of the body of a dress substantially as herein set forth.

HIRAM SEGER. Witnesses:

Z. C. RoBrNs, S. C. DORM.

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