US3604701A - Processes, systems, and composite systems for automating the manufacture of wearing apparel, headgear, footwear, components thereof and similar products - Google Patents

Processes, systems, and composite systems for automating the manufacture of wearing apparel, headgear, footwear, components thereof and similar products Download PDF

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US3604701A
US3604701A US681267A US3604701DA US3604701A US 3604701 A US3604701 A US 3604701A US 681267 A US681267 A US 681267A US 3604701D A US3604701D A US 3604701DA US 3604701 A US3604701 A US 3604701A
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Prior art keywords
workpieces
worktable
modules
stack
workpiece
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US681267A
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English (en)
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George F Hawley
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Ivanhoe Research Corp
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Ivanhoe Research Corp
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A41H43/02—Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/20—Pockets; Making or setting-in pockets
    • A41D27/204—Making or setting-in pockets
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B33/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for supplying or removing the work
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B33/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for supplying or removing the work
    • D05B33/006—Feeding workpieces separated from piles, e.g. unstacking
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B41/00—Work-collecting devices
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00—Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/02—Folding

Definitions

  • the systems are built up of groups of modular machines, each such machine or module having a predetermined size and shape so that the respective modules can be fitted together in many different ways in a wide variety of systems for performing one or more work functions upon the respective workpieces, thus providing flexibility and versatility in installations for convenient reassembly of the modules as may become desirable in the future to create changes in the systems and the composite systems to respond to or accommodate changes in the articles produced and work functions performed, arising from unanticipated style changes, variations in marketing demand or major changes in the products desired to be manufactured, so that the manufacturer is not locked in" by his capital investment but rather is provided with a great latitude and flexibility to adapt to unforseen contingencies arising in the future.
  • This invention relates to processes, systems, and composite systems for automating the manufacture of wearing apparel, headgear, footwear, components thereof, and the like products, and more particularly, to processes and systems wherein the respective fabric workpieces are automatically brought together so as to combine them in proper relationship fastened together to produce the desired products.
  • the garment industry has operated for decades on the basis of the bundle system.
  • the bundle arises out of the cutting of the goods in the cutting room, the bundles being tied by string and tagged between each operation to move them about and to keep track of their whereabouts.
  • the garment industry has heretofore utilized sewing machines having attachments associated with the machines for helping the operator to perform work on the goods.
  • the tied-up bundles have been brought to the operator who opened up the string to free the bundle from its restraint and then manually fed the pieces of goods one at a time into the sewing machine equipment. In virtually all cases the operator guided the individual pieces past the sewing station to produce the desired stitching path.
  • the transportable interchangeable coordinating preregistration worktables or boards impose only two-dimensional restraint upon the stack of workpieces-being transported thereon. That is, the friction between the transportable worktable or board and the bottom of the stack and between the individual pieces of the stack restrains the work pieces from moving forward or backward and from moving left or right with respect to the transportable boards, thus restraining the workpieces in two dimensions, but the stack is free of vertical restraint, thus eliminating one of the restraints which has been required by the prior art.
  • the location of the top workpiece of the stack becomes automatically known within plus or minus predetermined substantial variations in spite of the fact that the stack itself is subjected solely to two-dimensional restraint.
  • the transportable interchangeable coordinating preregistration board forming a cooperating integral functional machine element of the preceding and succeeding systems of modular machinery.
  • a further advantage of the present invention results from the fact that I have purposely broken up into two parts the mechanism for accurately registering the workpieces with respect to other work-performing machinery and with respect to other registered workpieces in the system.
  • These two parts are as follows: (l) a worktable upon which the final accurate registration occurs which worktable is included in the system with the work-performing machinery, and (2) a transportable interchangeable coordinating worktable or board upon which the workpiece is brought into a stack at the output of a preceding system in an approximately known preregistration position or relationship with respect to the work-performing medium and with respect to the related or potentially related workpieces in other stacks upon other transportable interchangeable coordinating worktables or boards in the system, this preregistration stacking occurring at the output of the preceding system.
  • These transportable coordinating preregistration boards serve as interlinking frames of reference in the composite automation system. At one time each of these coordinating boards functions as an integral, functional machine element of the stacking module at the output of one system wherein certain work was previously performed on the workpiece, and at a later time each of these boards functions as an integral, functional machine element of a feeding module at the input of a succeeding system where subsequent work is to be performed on the workpiece presenting the workpieces thereto in appropriately preregistered positions.
  • fabric is intended to include woven goods and also nonwoven, knitted, felted, absorbent, imperforate or perforate goods having a fabriclike texture suitable for use in clothing, headgear, footwear, components thereof and similar uses, regardless of whether the material of the goods is in one layer or multiple layers and regardless of whether the goods are natural, synthetic, or blended and regardless of whether the goods include animal fibers, vegetable fibers, paper material, or combinations thereof.
  • workpiece is intended to include individual pieces as well as subassemblies or semifinished goods including two or more pieces or components secured together by suitable fastening,
  • FIGS. 1A, 1B, 1C and ID are plan views illustrating process and showing four interrelated systems of a composite system for automatically manufacturing a pocket component, that is a side pocket, of the type which is often included in a pair of mens pants.
  • the arrow and legend at the right of FIG. 1A are intended to indicate that the stacks of preregistered workpieces transported by the interchangeable coordinating
  • FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a further system component of the composite system.
  • This system of FIG. 3 corresponding with the plan view shown in FIG. 1B;
  • FIG. 4 is a perspective view of a still further system forming a component of the composite system, the system shown in -dinating boards between the respective systems, for example for connecting the system shown in FIG. 3 with the system shown in FIG.
  • FIG. 7 is a partial perspective view of intervening rotary conveyor mechanism between two of the systems wherein it is desired to change the orientation of the workpiece before it is fed into the succeeding system. For example, in going from the system of FIG. IA to 1B the orientation of the workpieces is turned 180 as provided by the rotary conveyor. Moreover, FIG. 7 shows temporary storage for accommodating a temporary delay or surge in production flow;
  • FIG. 8 is a perspective view of a feeder module for feeding the workpiece-carrying coordinating preregistration boards into functional cooperation with the system;
  • FIG. 9 is a plan view of the input feeder module of FIG. 8;
  • FIG. 10 is an elevational sectional view of the input feeder module taken along line 10-10 of FIG. 9;
  • FIG. II is a perspective view of an output feeder module for stacking the workpieces into preregistered positions onto respective transportable boards and for automatically feeding worktables or boards that are being fed out from the output of the system of FIG. IA are being addressed to the input of the system shown in FIG. IB, there being a turntable conveyor between the systems of FIGS. 1A and 1B for turning the workpieces by 180.
  • the arrow and legend at the right of FIG. 18 indicate that the preregistered stacks of workpieces transported by the interchangeable coordinating boards that are being fed out from the output of the system of FIG. 18 are addressed to the input of the system of FIG. 1C, there being a conveyor between the systems of FIGS.
  • FIG. 18 and IC for automatically presenting the workpieces in compatible relationship to the system of FIG. IC.
  • the arrow and legend at the right of FIG. IC indicate that the preregistered stacks of workpieces are being addressed to the input of the system of FIG. ID, there being a turntable conveyor between the systems of FIGS. 10 and ID, as will be explained in detail further below;
  • FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a system corresponding to the plan view of FIG. 1A;
  • FIG. I2 is a partial sectional view taken along the line I2- 12 of FIG. 11 showing the mechanism for automatically feeding the transportable worktables or boards one at a time into position for receiving the respective workpieces thereon one at a time in preregistered position as the stack is built upon the board in readiness to be addressed into the next system;
  • FIG. I3 is a perspective view of differentiating and transferring means for automatically, reliably separating the top workpiece off from a stack of similar workpieces and for transferring this separated top workpiece over into the registration station of the system as indicated by the dotted outline;
  • FIG. 14 is a perspective view of an alternative means of differentiating the top workpiece from the stack and for transferring it over to the registration station in the system;
  • FIG. 15 is a side elevational view of the differentiating and transferring means of FIG. I4 shown in a succeeding stage of operation;
  • FIGS. 16 through 21 illustrate the operation of a folding and creasing module of the system shown in FIG. 5.
  • FIG. 16 is a perspective view of the operating parts in an initial operating I relationship
  • FIG. 17 is a sectional view taken along the lines I7-I7 of FIG. 16, illustrating in detail the relationship of the parts;
  • FIG. 18 is a perspective view of the operating parts in a sequential stage of operation
  • FIG. 19 is a sectional view taken along the line 19-19 thereof illustrating this same relationship of the parts;
  • FIG. 20 is a perspective view of the parts near the end of the sequence of operation of the folding and creasing operation
  • FIG. 21 is a sectional view showing this same relationship of the parts.
  • FIG. 24 illustrates a further form of programming indicia which may be carried by the boards
  • FIG. 25 is a top plan view of the pocket illustrating a first creasing of the raw edge along an increment thereof, and FIG. 26 shows a completion of the creasing along the raw edge;
  • FIG. 27 shows the pocket folded in half and creased and stitched together so as to be completely assembled
  • FIG. 28 shows the pocket partially opened to show the opening into which the users hand may be inserted.
  • FIG. 29 illustrated the intended final relationship of the pocket to a pants leg panel of a pair of mens pants.
  • processes, systems and a composite system embodying the invention for automating the manufacture of garments, garment components and the like articles are illustratively shown to combine and fasten together various sizes and shapes of workpieces and to perform work functions thereon to produce garment components, which are illustratively shown as pockets of the type commonly included in the sides of mens pants.
  • the processes shown include steps of automatically feeding stacks S of fabric workpieces W into cooperative relationship with the respective systems of machine modules wherein the stacks of preregistered workpieces are carried by transportable'interlinking coordinate worktables or boards B adapted to fit cooperatively with the respective systems in the composite to which these transportable worktables or boards are addressed.
  • These transportable worktables B serve sequentially as integral parts of the outfeed modules from which they are addressed and of the infeed modules in the succeeding systems to which they are addressed.
  • these worktables or boards interact with the machinery to provide preregistration frames of reference and coordinate the workpieces W in passing the stacks of workpieces from system to system of the composite automation system.
  • This illustrative example of the invention is a composite automation system for making side pockets for mens pants
  • the composite system of FIGS. 1A to 1D, inclusive includes four cooperating systems 50, 51, 52, and 53 for performing different work functions to complete the pocket product P being made.
  • the workpieces into the respective systems 50, 51, 52, and 53 they are taken one at a time from the preregistered stacks while differentiating the respective workpieces W from the next ones in the stack, putting the workpieces into registry stations in the systems, registering them in the registry stations to bring them into more accurately known coordinate positions in the systems which will perform work functions thereon.
  • the systems 50, 51, 52 and 53 are shown combining certain workpieces with other workpieces for fastening the workpieces together, transferring them into work stations and passing them through the work stations, performing work thereon and putting those workpieces which have had work functions performed thereon into subsequent stacks 5 in appropriately preregistered positions upon other transportable interlinking coordinate boards B for automatically addressing these preregistered stacks in proper presentation to subsequent systems of the composite system without requiring manual rearrangement of the individual workpieces to effect compatibilitywith the subsequent systems.
  • the larger fabric workpieces W-l are panels of cloth which have been cut out in the cutting room in stacks S-l'. Each of these cloth panels has the same shape which is one suitable for forming pocket bags.
  • the stacks S-l include a predetermined number of workpieces W-l, for example two dozen in each stack. The stacks are each placed in desired preregistered positions upon their respective transportable boards B-l, this preregistration of the stacks may conveniently be done in the cutting room where the stacksare cut out from laid up layers of the pocket bag fabric.
  • the boards B-l include index marks 30 (FIG. 22) thereon indicating the desired preregistered positions of two spaced, prominent portions of the workpieces of the stacks S-l, such as two comers C (FIG. 1A) of the stack, but the preregistration positioning of the stacks on the boards is not required to be accurate. As long as the corners of the stack are located on a predetermined side of the index marks 30 (FIG. 22), i.e. .behind such marks, and within approximately I inch of the index marks 30, this is a sufficiently accurate preregistration.
  • the smaller fabric workpieces W-2 are backfacings to be fastened to the pocket panel workpieces W-l, these workpieces W-2 being in stacks S-2 each having the same number of workpieces as the stacks 8-].
  • Two prominent portions such as the two corners C of the stacks 8-2 are preregistered with index marks on the respective transportable interlinking coordinate worktables or boards 8-2 in a manner similar to that described above with respect to the stacks 8-1.
  • the respective worktables or boards B-1 and 8-2 are being fed into substantially identical infeed modules 31 of the workperforming system generally indicated at 50.
  • This system is built up of a group of modular machines, providing the various stations in the system. Each such machine or module has a predetermined size and shape so that the respective modules can be fitted together in many different ways in a wide variety of systems for performing one or more functions upon the respective workpieces, thus providing flexibility and versatility in installation for convenient reassembly of the modules as may become desirable in the future to create changes in the system to respond to or accommodate changes in the articles produced and work functions performed, arising from unanticipated style changes, variations in marketing demand or major changes in the products desired to be manufactured.
  • the basic dimension of the modules is 2 feet by 2 feet in the horizontal plane, which is illustrative of a suitable modular dimension for use in a system of this type.
  • This same modular dimension of 2 feet by 2 feet also applies to other systems 51, 52 and 53 of this composite automation system. It is to be understood that other modular dimensions may be chosen depending upon a particular plant installation and upon the relative sizes of the workpieces being handled, as will be appreciated by those skilled in the art.
  • the particular system 50 as shown includes the following modules:
  • a registration module 34 for registering the pocket panel workpieces W-l into accurately known position
  • a belt conveyor stitching module 35 which has a substantial length extending along the central portion of the system, a multiple of 2 feet,
  • a registration and swing-over combining module 36 for registering the backfacing workpieces S-2 and for swinging each such registered workpiece up and over so as to deposit it upon the workpiece W-l in the desired location as indicated by the arch-shaped arrow 61, and
  • a stacking module 37 which supplies transportable worktables or boards 8-3 upon which the sewn workpieces W-3 are stacked in preregistered location to form stacks 8-3, each stack having the same number of workpieces as in the stacks 8-2.
  • the separating and differentiating module 32 which is shown at the left side of FIG. 2 and which is located at the infeed station [-1 serves partially to separate and differentiate top workpiece W-l from the remaining workpieces in the stack S-l. Then as indicated by the arrow 62, the transfer module 33 transfers this partially separated top workpiece over into a registration station 12-] defined by the registration module 34.
  • the transfer module 33 and the separating and differentiating module 32 are shown in detail in FIGS. 13 through 15 which will be described in detail further below.
  • stacks S-] are all in the same preregistered positions on their respective worktables or boards B-l, and thus the position of the top workpiece being separated from the stack in the infeed station [-1 is known within certain acceptable tolerance variations which are not precise, for example such within 1 inch of the index marks. It isl noted that the stacks may be somewhat angularly displaced a SO.
  • the transfer module 33 deposits the workpiece W-l in the registration station R-l it is in a generally known location or preregistered position behind certain edge stops 63 and within approximately 1 inch thereof, advantageously enabling the registration to occur properly.
  • the preregistration assures that each workpiece arrives in the registration station R-l in a position which is suitable for registration with its predetermined edges being in proper relationship with the edge stop means 63 in station R-l.
  • This registration station R-l includes a plurality of air jet units directing pulsating jets of air beneath the workpiece W-l for gently moving it until two of it predetermined edges such as those adjacent a corner C are registered against the pair of edge stops 63 to bring the workpiece into accurately known position.
  • the conveyor belt 65 is a wide belt which supports the main body of the workpiece W-l, while the other conveyor belt 66 is narrower for supporting an edge portion upon which the workpiece W-2 is to be placed.
  • This module 32 serves partially to separate the top workpiece W-2 from the stack S-'2 in the infeed station [-2 so that the transfer module 33 shown at the right of the module 32 can engage the partially separated top workpiece to transfer it over into a registration station R-2 wherein the workpiece S-2 is registered against'a pair of edge stops 68.
  • a registration and swing-over combining machine is disclosed and claimed in said copending application of Herman Rovin and Fred J. Schiffmacher, Ser. No. 619,302.
  • Air jet units feed pulsating jets of air beneath the workpiece W-2 for moving its edges against the stops 68, as
  • a supporting surface 69 mounted on the end of a swingable arm lifts the registered workpiece W-2 and swings it up and over-as indicated by the arrow 61 to deposit this registered workpiece W-2 upon the other workpiece W-l in a combining station D-l.
  • the stitching module 35 includes a conventional lockstitch sewing machine 71 and suitable photocell sensing equipment to start the sewing machine when the leading portions of the combined workpieces W-l and W-2 approach the work station F for fastening the work, station F being defined by the sewing head of the sewing machine 71, and to stop the sewing machine and to cut the threads after the trailing edges of the workpieces have passed the sewing station F in order to hold the combined workpieces W-l and W-2 in their properly registered positions on the moving conveyor belts 62 and 63 there are a pair of spaced toboggan-shaped resilient guides 72 and 73 having slippery lower surfaces which press down upon the moving workpieces W-l and W-2 as urged by a plurality of oval-shaped strip steel springs 74.
  • a further transfer module serves to transfer the individual workpieces W-3 off from the conveyor belts 65 and 66 as indicated by the arrow 77 and to deposit these workpieces W-3 in a stack S-3 on the board B-3 which is in the preregistration stacking station as indicated at PR.
  • the transportable worktable or board B-3 is pushed along an outfeed track 79 of the stacking module 37 by the next empty board B-3 which then is ready to receive its stack, as explained in detail further below in connection with FIGS. 11 and 12.
  • the boards B-3 each carrying a preregistered stack S-3 slide onto a turntableconveyor' 80 which is shown in greater detail and will be explained in connection with FIG. 7.
  • the turntable conveyor 80 is indexed through an angle so as to place this board opposite the infeed track 82 of the infeed module 31 of the succeeding system 51.
  • a limit switch (not shown) is actuated when the board B-3 has been pushed onto the turntable 8 0, and a pneumatic cylinder and push rod (not shown) mounted on the turntable serves to push the boards B-3 off from the turntable onto the infeed track 82.
  • the respective transportable worktables B-Z as shown in FIG. 23 have identifying programming indicia 88, formed by a pattern of notches in the edge of each board 3-2.
  • These indicia 88 are arranged differently on the edge of each successive board so that it is automatically distinguished from every other board, for example the notches are arranged as digits of a numbering system to the base 2, Le. a binary numbering system, each successive board bearing the next larger number.
  • the boards are numbered for quick and easy visual recognition by the operator who preregisters the stacks upon the boards B-2 and B-4.
  • FIG. 8 is an enlarged perspective view of one of the infeed modules 31 showing the infeed track 82 along which the boards B-2 travel as they move toward the infeed station I-2 and showing the location of the sensing probes 89.
  • Each of these probes 89 is spring biased toward the notches and is associated with a normally open switch (not shown).
  • switches of the respective probes 89 are connected to a computer 90, and similarly the infeed module 31 (FIG. 3) which handles the boards B-4 has probes such as 89 which are individually connected through wires in an electrical cable 91 to the computer 90.
  • This computer is programmed to give an alarm signal via a buzzer in the event that the relative order of the boards B-4 entering the infeed module 31 of the system 51 differs from the relative order of the corresponding boards B-2 which entered the system 50.
  • FIG. 24 shows an alternative embodiment of the programming indicia 88 formed by holes in the edge portion of the boards 3-2 or B-4.
  • the sensing elements 89 comprise individual photocell units which respond to light radiating upwardly from a source 94 extending beneath and aligned with the location of the holes 88.
  • the photocell units 89 when used are connected to the computer 90 and are positioned just above the boards B-2 or B-4 near the location shown in FIG. 8 for the sensing probes 89.
  • the stacks 5-2 were inverted before being placed on the worktables B-2 so that all of the workpieces thereon are upside down, for reasons of the swing-over combining step 61 as explained above.
  • the order of the workpieces W2 will be referred to as A to Z, for purposes of reference.
  • the first one sewn is on the bottom; thus, the order of the workpieces W-3 in their stacks S-3 is opposite to that from their original order in the'stacks S-2.
  • the workpieces in the stacks S-2 are arranged in the order Z to A. Accordingly, it is desirable that the inverted workpieces W-4 which are being fed into the system 51 of FIG. 3 should be in their stacks 5-4 in the same order Z to A with respect to their original order in the plys of laid-up cloth in the cutting room.
  • the particular system 51 as shown in FIG. 3 includes the same types of modules arranged in the same order as in the system 50, and therefore it is not believed necessary to list again each of these corresponding modules.
  • the separating and differentiating modules 32 at the infeed station [-3 serves partially to separate and differentiate the top workpiece W-3 from the remaining workpieces in the stack S-3 on the worktable 3-3 at the infeed station.
  • this partially separated workpiece is then transferred by a transfer module (not shown) to the registration station R-3 of a registration module where it is registered against the stop means 63, thereafter being transferred to the conveyor belts 65 and 66 as indicated by the arrow 64.
  • the transfer module which carries, as indicated at 62, the workpiece W-3 from the infeed station [-3 to the registration station R-3 serves to turn the workpiece W-3 through an appropriate small angle, as seen most clearly in plan view in FIG.
  • This turning of the workpiece before placing it into the registration station R-3 assures that it is deposited in a desired preregistered position at R-3 so that predetermined respective edges of the workpiece arrive in spaced opposed relationship with the respective stops 63 against which these edges are to be registered.
  • the reason for turning the workpiece is to have it oriented after registration so that the desired line of lockstitches 84 to be formed will be lined up with the desired stitching path as defined by the gap 67 between the conveyor belts 65 and 66, because the line of stitches 84, as seen most clearly in FIGS. 25 and 26 are disposed at an angle to the line of stitches 75.
  • the workpieces W4 in the stacks 3-4 on the boards B-2 are inyerted and arranged in Z-to-A order, as discussed above. These workpieces W4 are front facings to be sewn to the pocket panel assembly W-3.
  • the separating and differentiating module 32 in the infeed station I-4 partially separates the top workpiece W-4 from the stack S-4, and then a transfer module shown by the arrow 70 transfers this workpiece W-4 over to the registration station R-4. After being registered there the workpiece W-4 is swung up and over at 61 to be deposited in the combining station D-2 upon the edge portion of the workpiece W-3 which is opposite from the edge thereof occupied by the sewn workpiece Wl.
  • the module 35 forms the line of lockstitches 84 and delivers the pocket panel assembly workpiece W-S to the position opposite the preregistration position PR-3.
  • the workpieces W-S (FIG. 3) are transferred as shown by arrow 77 into the preregistration station PR-3 and are stacked up on the boards B-5 until the stacks 5-5 are completed, and
  • the boards B-S are fed out along the outfeed track 79 of the stacker module 37. From the outfeed track 79 the boards B-S each carrying a preregistered stack S- move onto a belt conveyor 81, which is shown in greater detail in FIG. 6, serving to carry the boards 13-5 to the infeed track 82 of the infeed module 31 (FIG. 4) of the next system 52 which is shown in detail in FIG. 4.
  • the particular system 52 includes the following modules:
  • a top workpiece separating and differentiating module 3. a number of transfer modules such as the transfer modules described above, the presence of these modules being indicated by appropriate transfer arrows,
  • a belt conveyor overedge stitching (or serging) module 38 at the output of the system 52, a stacking module 37 which supplies transportable worktables or boards B-6.
  • the separating and differentiating module 32 at the infeed station I-S serves partially to separate and differentiate the top workpiece W-S from the remaining workpieces in the stack S-5 on the worktable B-5 at the infeed station.
  • this partially separated workpiece is then transferred by a transfer module (not shown) to the registration station R-S provided by the registration module 34.
  • the workpiece is registered against the pair of edge stop means 63 which serve to register accurately the coinciding curved edge portions of the pocket panel (originally W-l) and of the backfacing (originally W2) sewn thereto.
  • the reason for accurately registering these curving edge portions is that these are the edges to which the overedge stitching is to be applied by the overedge (serging) module 38.
  • the workpiece W-5 is registered in the station R-5, it is transferred, as indicated by the arrow 64, to a conveyor belt 95 of the overedge stitching module 38.
  • This belt 95 supports the main body of the workpiece W-5, with its edge portions which are to be stitched being allowed to project from the belt 95 so as to slide along on the smooth upper surface of the module 38 extending along adjacent to the conveyor belt 95.
  • the module 38 includes a guide 96 having a slippery lower surface which holds the main body of the workpiece W-5 down against the conveyor belt 95 to prevent slippage between the workpiece and the conveyor belt, while the projecting edge portions of the workpiece W-S are suitably guided by guide apparatus 97 so as to enter the fastening station F-3 provided by a serging sewing machine 98.
  • This type of serging or overedge sewing machine as shown at 98 is commercially available.
  • the module 38 forms the overedge stitches 99 which are seen most clearly in FIGS. 25-29, serving to attach the outer edge of the backfacing to the pocket panel.
  • the conveyor belt 95 delivers the newly sewn assembly workpiece W-6 to a position opposite the preregistration station PR-4, and a transfer module (not shown) as indicated by arrow 77 transfers the workpiece W-6 over into a stack S-6 at this preregistration station.
  • a transfer module (not shown) as indicated by arrow 77 transfers the workpiece W-6 over into a stack S-6 at this preregistration station.
  • the full boards B-6 are fed out along the track 79 of the stacker module 37.
  • the boards B-6 slide onto a turntable conveyor 80 similar to that described further below, which is indexed through an angle of 180 so as to place this board B-6 opposite the infeed track 82 of the infeed module 31 of the succeeding system 53.
  • the system 52 may include a manipulating stitching module such as the module 41 of FIG. 5, instead of the module 38.
  • a manipulating stitching module such as the module 41 of FIG. 5, instead of the module 38.
  • This type of manipulating sewing apparatus for sewing along a contoured path suitable for use in the module 41 is shown in a copending application of Douglas G. noisyles,
  • the particular system 53 includes the following modules:
  • the separating and differentiating module 32 at the infeed station I6 serves partially to separate and differentiate the top workpiece W-6 from the remaining workpieces in the stack S-6 on the worktable B-6 at the infeed station.
  • FIG. 5 shows this separated workpiece already starting to be transferred over as indicated by the arrow 62 to the registration station R-6, which is provided by the transfer module 34.
  • the curved bottom edge of the pocket panel assembly workpiece W-6 is registered against a pair of curved edge stops 100. After registration to bring the workpiece into an accurately known location, it is transferred as indicated by the arrow 64 over to a creasing work station G-1 provided by the first incremental creaser module 39.
  • the creasing action at the station G-l serves to turn back a narrow edge portion 101 (FIG. 25) and to crease it in position so as to eliminate a raw edge.
  • This creased portion 101 extends along approximately one-half of the curved bottom edge 102 of the partially creased workpiece W-7.
  • the partially creased workpiece W-7 is transferred by a transfer module which also displaces the workpiece angularly.
  • the transfer action 83 may be accomplished by sliding the workpiece along the table surfaces while turning it to a different angular position, as seen most clearly in plan view in FIG. 1D. Thus, it is moved into a second creasing work station G-l provided by another incremental creaser module 39.
  • the creasing action at the station G-2 serves to turn back a continuation of the narrow edge portion 103 (FIG. 26) to complete the creasing of the curved bottom edge of the fully creased workpiece W-8.
  • the fully creased workpiece W 8 is transferred as indicated by arrow by using a transfer module having suction pickup means as shown in said application and with means for turning the workpiece so as to bring it into a folding and creasing station defined by a folding-creaser module 40.
  • a transfer module having suction pickup means as shown in said application and with means for turning the workpiece so as to bring it into a folding and creasing station defined by a folding-creaser module 40.
  • station H-l the workpiece is folded in half and creased along its centerline 104 (FIG. 27) to form a folded pocket assembly W-9, as shown by steps in FIGS. 16-21.
  • the folded pocket assembly is transferred by sliding over onto the manipulating stitcher module 41.
  • the structural details and operation of apparatus suitable for use in this module 41 are shown in the copending application of Douglas G. Noiles, Ser. No. 663,033, filed Aug. 24, 1967, referred to above.
  • a clamp 105 engages down upon the workpiece and moves it through a fastening station F-4 in proper relation to a sewing machine 76 to produce the desired curved stitching path.
  • a double line of lockstitches 106 (FIG. 27) are formed through the in-turned edge portions so as to close up the bottom of the pocket, thus completing the product P.
  • the pocket product P is transferred by sliding over as indicated by arrow 87 to a delivery station on a table module 42.
  • the pockets P are then transferred up and over onto a stack 5-7 on a board 8-7 in preregistration station PR-S.
  • the product is stacked neatly in preregistered position in readiness for use.
  • FIG. 29 illustrates the way in which the pocket P is adapted to be assembled with a pants leg panel.
  • the respective transportable interlinking worktables 8-3, 8-5, B-6, B7 and B-8 all may carry identifying indicia 88.
  • the thickness of the assembled workpiece is greater along the edge where there are two plies as compared to one ply in the central region.
  • the central regions of the stacks of sewn workpieces sag down somewhat as compared with the double-ply edge regions.
  • the stacks of sewn workpieces are shown as having flat tops.
  • the systems 50, 51, 52, and 53 can accommodate surges caused by temporary interruptions of production, such for minor repairs, to rethread the needle of a sewing machine, etc.
  • the function of the infeed modules enables the worktables to queue up adjacent one to another in spite of the fact that they may have initially been spaced apart or have entered the infeed track 82 with nonuniform time intervals (random intervals) between arrivals.
  • FIGS. 8, 9 and 10 show details of the infeed modules 31, for example, such as the one in FIG. 2 for handling the boards 8-2.
  • the infeed track 82 is defined by a pair of angle iron members 111 connected by a bracket 112 and a plate 1 13, the track members 111 being mounted on a pivot shaft 114.
  • Multiple small rollers 115 are mounted at spaced points along the track members 111 upon which roll the transportable worktables B-2, as shown in FIG. 10.
  • an elevator cam 116 periodically lowers the forward end of the two track members 111, as shown in FIG. 10.
  • This cam is mounted on a shaft 117 which can be rotated by an electric motor and gear reducer drive unit 118 through a pulley and V- belt drive 119.
  • a cam follower roller 120 rides on the cam and is fastened to the plate 114 to lower and raise the track.
  • the forward end of the track 82 is progressively raised by the cam 116 so as to keep the top of the stack at approximately the same level.
  • a fixed abutment depresses a stop button 123 (FIG. 10) so as to move the button 123 below the level of the bottom of the adjacent board 8-2.
  • the stop 123 is spring biased upwardly by means of a spring in a casing 124 which is mounted on the end of a piston rod 127.
  • a switch (not shown) associated with the casing 124 so as to be actuated when the button 123 is fully depressed, and this switch operates a solenoid valve causing a pneumatic cylinder 128 to retract the rod 127.
  • the cylinder 128 is mounted upon bracket 112 and plate 113.
  • the spring-biased stop button 123 slides back beneath the first board, and as soon as the clearance opening 93 is reached the button 123 is pushed up by its spring so as to be located in front of the next board to control its forward movement as explained below. i 5
  • a switch-actuating finger (not shown) depending from the separating and differentiating module 32 is allowed to drop down through a trigger slot 121 (FIGS. 22, 23 and 24) of the worktable, closing a control switch and thus energizing the electric motor unit 118.
  • the cam 116 turns lowering the track, and a control switch responsive to an actuator coupled to the camshaft 117 causes the cam to stop again when the track members 111 have been located at the desired position for a full stack in the infeed station.
  • the lowering of the track allows the empty board to roll forward off from the track and to slide down into a bin stopping against a resilient bumper strip 126.
  • switch means 122 cause the cylinder 128 to move its rod 127 gradually forward to its initial position to allow the full worktable to roll slowly forward into the infeed station l-2.
  • a sensing switch (not shown) which is actuated when the full worktable has moved all of the way forward and also a sensing switch located near 122 is actuated when the track has been raised up to its operating position in the infeed station l-2. in this way an electrical control circuit is completed to permit the operation of the separating and differentiating module 32 to begin.
  • sensing means for example such as a photocell or probe on a switch arm, is responsive to the position of the top of the stack and controls the cam drive unit 118 to raise the infeed track 82 slightly from time to time, thus keeping the top of the stack at approximately the same height.
  • the workpiece separating and differentiating module 32 is supported on a large bracket 130 which spans across between the sidewalls 131 of the infeed module 31.
  • the top workpiece W2 (FIG. 10) as shown in dashed and dotted outline' is placed in proper position for operation of the separating and differentiating module 32.
  • the various modules of the systems 50, 51, 52 and 53 are controlled in their cycles of operation by rotary programming switches which are commercially available. Also, there are sensing switches (sometimes called limit switches in the electrical control circuit art) placed at appropriate points in the systems. These sensing switches are included in electrical interlock circuits to assure that each of the desired operations described above is carried through to completion before the next operation can begin. If desired, any one of the systems 50, 51, 52, or 53 can be used individually in production. Thus, for example, the system 50 can be employed by itself to sew on the backfacing, and then the remaining work on the pocket workpieces can be carried out with conventional production equipment.
  • each system by itself is of advantage in making the transition from a conventional production arrangement to a composite automation system employing the present invention.
  • the system 50 is installed in a plant, and operators are trained to supervise its operation, while the remainder of the plant carries on production in conventional ways substantially as before.
  • the next system 51 is installed, and operators are trained to run it while the remainder of the plant continues in production, and so forth until the entire transition is completed.
  • the production capacity of the composite systems 50, 51, 52 and 53 is so large that they enable the low-cost production of side pockets for mens pants in standard sizes and neutral colors suitable to be sold as separate articles of commerce for purchase and subsequent use by other producers in making I completed pants.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Folding Of Thin Sheet-Like Materials, Special Discharging Devices, And Others (AREA)
US681267A 1967-11-07 1967-11-07 Processes, systems, and composite systems for automating the manufacture of wearing apparel, headgear, footwear, components thereof and similar products Expired - Lifetime US3604701A (en)

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US68126767A 1967-11-07 1967-11-07
US8774470A 1970-11-09 1970-11-09

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Cited By (15)

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US3726399A (en) * 1970-06-12 1973-04-10 B Beamish Apparatus for making stitchable articles, especially shoes substantially of fabric material and a method therefor
US3769924A (en) * 1972-03-10 1973-11-06 W Rogers Profile sewing apparatus
US3789781A (en) * 1971-08-24 1974-02-05 Blue Bell Inc Sewing system
US3793968A (en) * 1970-01-26 1974-02-26 Farah Mfg Co Inc Fabric, joining and sewing device
US3889613A (en) * 1973-09-24 1975-06-17 Petrus Cornelius Gerar Hofland Methods of stitching a seam
US3898941A (en) * 1973-03-23 1975-08-12 Cluett Peabody & Co Inc Apparatus for manufacturing and stacking hemmed fabric pieces
US4009672A (en) * 1975-10-06 1977-03-01 Jetsew, Inc. Sewing machine material preassembly system
WO1985003312A1 (en) * 1984-01-17 1985-08-01 Chesebrough Ponds, Inc. Apparatus for sewing a curved seam
US5039079A (en) * 1988-06-27 1991-08-13 Patrick Rouleau Process and apparatus for superimposing at least two flexible layers in particular the front and rear panels of an article such as a slip in the textile and knitted goods industry
WO2000060513A1 (en) * 1999-04-01 2000-10-12 Max Hats, Ltd. Integrated product and process for mass customization of goods one item at a time
US6298275B1 (en) 1995-03-23 2001-10-02 Gerber Garment Technology, Inc. Non-intrusive part identification system for parts cut from a sheet material
CN102626262A (zh) * 2012-03-21 2012-08-08 江西丝黛实业有限公司 发条编织制作方法及其装置
CN106868723A (zh) * 2017-04-27 2017-06-20 杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 布料自动传输装置及布料自动输送线
CN108516374A (zh) * 2018-04-10 2018-09-11 上海态镀贸易有限公司 衣服黏连吸起装置
CN116461188A (zh) * 2023-03-11 2023-07-21 福建顺邦防护科技有限公司 一种服装布料粘合设备

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GB8823266D0 (en) * 1988-10-04 1988-11-09 Courtaulds Plc Processing flexible sheet workpieces
GB2283763B (en) * 1993-11-09 1997-03-05 Extracem Limited A garment production process and apparatus
GB2284619B (en) * 1993-12-07 1997-02-12 Mayo Workwear Research & Dev L A method for manufacturing garments
CN104223551B (zh) * 2014-09-25 2016-01-20 杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 布料分离装置
EP3951039B1 (de) * 2020-08-03 2024-03-13 3con Anlagebau GmbH Nähmaschinenbeschickungsvorrichtung zum automatischen beschicken einer nähmaschine mit nähteilen
US11963564B2 (en) * 2020-11-24 2024-04-23 Createme Technologies Inc. Automated garment manufacturing using adhesive bonding
GB2637983A (en) * 2024-02-09 2025-08-13 Margarita Orozco Pizarro Ella Compact clothing manufacturing assembly, modules therefor and methods of assembling and using a clothing manufacturing assembly

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US3420515A (en) * 1965-07-16 1969-01-07 Singer Co Machine for automatically loading and unloading fabric creasers

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US3355165A (en) * 1965-04-20 1967-11-28 L & L Mfg Inc Fabric stretching and/or alternatelyreversing mechanism for separating fabric pieces from a stack thereof
US3357701A (en) * 1966-10-11 1967-12-12 William C Cremer Cloth stacking device

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US3054612A (en) * 1960-01-18 1962-09-18 Edward S Godlewski Collating device
US3420515A (en) * 1965-07-16 1969-01-07 Singer Co Machine for automatically loading and unloading fabric creasers

Cited By (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3793968A (en) * 1970-01-26 1974-02-26 Farah Mfg Co Inc Fabric, joining and sewing device
US3726399A (en) * 1970-06-12 1973-04-10 B Beamish Apparatus for making stitchable articles, especially shoes substantially of fabric material and a method therefor
US3789781A (en) * 1971-08-24 1974-02-05 Blue Bell Inc Sewing system
US3769924A (en) * 1972-03-10 1973-11-06 W Rogers Profile sewing apparatus
US3898941A (en) * 1973-03-23 1975-08-12 Cluett Peabody & Co Inc Apparatus for manufacturing and stacking hemmed fabric pieces
US3889613A (en) * 1973-09-24 1975-06-17 Petrus Cornelius Gerar Hofland Methods of stitching a seam
US4009672A (en) * 1975-10-06 1977-03-01 Jetsew, Inc. Sewing machine material preassembly system
US4633793A (en) * 1984-01-17 1987-01-06 Chesebrough-Pond's Inc. Apparatus for sewing a curved seam
WO1985003312A1 (en) * 1984-01-17 1985-08-01 Chesebrough Ponds, Inc. Apparatus for sewing a curved seam
US5039079A (en) * 1988-06-27 1991-08-13 Patrick Rouleau Process and apparatus for superimposing at least two flexible layers in particular the front and rear panels of an article such as a slip in the textile and knitted goods industry
US6298275B1 (en) 1995-03-23 2001-10-02 Gerber Garment Technology, Inc. Non-intrusive part identification system for parts cut from a sheet material
WO2000060513A1 (en) * 1999-04-01 2000-10-12 Max Hats, Ltd. Integrated product and process for mass customization of goods one item at a time
CN102626262A (zh) * 2012-03-21 2012-08-08 江西丝黛实业有限公司 发条编织制作方法及其装置
CN106868723A (zh) * 2017-04-27 2017-06-20 杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 布料自动传输装置及布料自动输送线
CN108516374A (zh) * 2018-04-10 2018-09-11 上海态镀贸易有限公司 衣服黏连吸起装置
CN116461188A (zh) * 2023-03-11 2023-07-21 福建顺邦防护科技有限公司 一种服装布料粘合设备

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