US351827A - Method of making shirts - Google Patents

Description

3 Sheets-Sheet 1..

A.VBORGHMMJT. METHOD of MAKING SHIRTS.

(No Model.)

Patentedl Nov. 2, 1886.

N4 PETERS, Pnawwmgnphef, wmiugwn. im:A

(No Model.) l 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

A. BORGHARDT.

METHOD OP MAKING SHIRTS. No. 351,827. -Patzented Nov. 2, 1886.

N. PEYERS. PhuwLimugmpher, wabingmn. n.6.

(No Model.) l 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

A. BOROHARDT.

METHOD OP MAKING SHIRTS.

No. 351,827. I Pfntenmad Nov. 2, 1886.

Wmn I y ma jprnml-Z dmmww @17% N. PETERS. PhulwLilhngnpher, washingmn, D. C.

I UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

`ALEErrr BOECHAEDT, "E EoBoKEN, NEw JERSEY.

METHOD oF MAKING SHIRTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N0. 351,827, dated November 2, 1886.

Application filed March 22, 1886. Serial No. 196,044. (No model.)

ro upper parts of the pieces which constitute the body of the shirt. v

In the ordinary method of cutting, the yoke is formed of a single piece o-f cloth. This piece is cut from a transverse section of the I fabric, between the upper edges, respectively,

of the two larger pieces', which constitute the front and rear portions of the body of the shirt. As the central portion of the yoke is wider than the end portions, gore-shaped pieces :o are cutout between the yokeand the upper edge of the front portion of the body of the shirt. These gore-shaped pieces are wasted. The central portion of the yoke is notched to fit the back ofthe neck. The material cut out to form this 2 5 lnotch is also wasted. The central portion of the yoke is frequently made of double thickness, and when this is done an additional quantity of cloth is required to furnish the lining for the central portion of the yoke. 'The upper portions of each of the body-pieces are notched on the sides to form the armholes, and the pieces thus notched out are wasted.

The present invention consists in cutting from the section of the fabric, between the body- 3 5 patterns, ayoke-pattern of such shape that its opposite ends are wider than its central portion, then cutting it transversely in the center, and turning each half of it end for end, thus bringing the wider portions of the two 4o pieces together, and, in cases where a lining or double thickness for the middle portion of the yoke is required, turning over or lapping upon each other the wider ends of the two pieces. The opening for theneck, instead of being formed by cutting out a piece of cloth from the central portion of the fabric, is partly formed by the removal ot a smaller quantity of cloth on two curved lines,respcctively,near the opposite ends of the cut by which the front 5o portion of the body is separated from the yokepattern. By this mode of cutting there is a curved tol form portions of the neck-opening.- k

- The accompanying diagrams, lillustrating the old method of cutting shirt-patterns,- and also the method which constitutes the subject of the present invention, which, for convenience,is herein designatedthe new method,7 are as follows:

- Figure l is a diagram representing in dotted lines the forms of the various piecesof which the shirt was composed according to the old method of cutting. In the same drawing the new method of forming the patterns is represented in solid lines. Fig. 2 is a front elevation, and Fig. 3 a rear elevation, showing the manner in which the old style of patterns were pieced together to form the front and rear portions of thebody and the yoke of the shirt. Fig. tis a front elevation, and Fig. 5 a rear elevation,showing the method of uniting the pieces cut according to the new method to form the front and rear portions of the body and the yoke of the shirt.

In the drawings transverse sections of cloth are represented as being broken out from the body-patterns in order to permit the representation of the remaining parts of the patterns on a large scale. i

In carrying out the present invention the yshape of the front body-pattern, A a, is not changed, as will be seen on reference to Fig. I, in which the new and old methods of cutting are represented, respectively, in solid lines and in dotted lines. The front* bodypattern is notched at the sides near its upper edge to form portions of the armholes A A" c a. Its upper edge is centrally notched to form the hole A2 a2 for the neck.

The rear body portion, B, of the shirt, according to the new method of cutting, as shown by the solid lines in Fig. 1, has its upper edge IOC formed into concentric curves or arcs of circles, the chords of which are in alignment with cach other.

According to the old method of cutting, the rear body-piece, b, as represented in dotted lines in Fig. 1, has its upper edge formed into two convex curves or arcs of circles, the c hords of which meet at an obtuse angle.

The cloth removed from the front pattern to form the armholes A a affords the material for two strips of cloth, C C, which are subsequently pieced together, and which, in carrying out the present invention, are employed to piece out the yoke on the shoulders, but which, according to the old method of cutting, were wasted.

According to the old method of cutting, the cloth between the front and rear body-patterns was cut out, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 1, to form the yoke d d d in a single piece. This yoke was provided with a central notch, d, for the back of the neck. Vhcn it was desired to form the central portion of the yoke of two thicknesses of the fabric, tive lining-pieces, e ec ee, were cnt out with every iifth shirt.

It will be seen, on reference to Fig. 1, that the length of fabric required to furnish the front and rear body-pieces and yoke of a shirt, according to the old method of cutting, was equal to the distance between the horizontal line a3, which indicates the bottom edge of the front body-piece, and the transverse line b', which indicates the bottom edge of the rear body-piece, and that when a lining for the central portion of the yoke was desired a further length of fabric was required equal to one-fifth of the extreme length of the pieces e c, &c.

By the new'method of cutting, the yoke, instead of being in one piece, is formed mainly of the two similar pieces, D D. (Represented in solid lines in Fig. l.) 'The division-line D defines what are to constitute the ends of the yoke adjoining the armholes, respectively.

In making up the shirt the two pieces D D are turned end for end, and the two wider ends D'Z D2, respectively, are, if desired, turned back or overlapped upon each ot-her, to form the double thickness of material which is frequently employed to form the central portion of the yoke at the back of the shirt. If the double thickness is not required, suitable portions of the overlaps may be trimmed off and the vertical edges of the two yoke-pieces be united direct-ly to each other.

It will be seen that in the old method of cutting the central portion of the yoke was deeply notched to form the neck-opening, as represented by the dotted line d. In the present method of cutting, the shallow notches D3 D3 are cut in the upper edges of the yokepieces D D, respectively, as shown, and in making up the shirt the curved ends C/ of the pieces C serve as continuations, respectively, of the curved line which forms the back of the neck-opening.

In making up the shirt the longitudinal` edges C" C of the pieces C are sewed to the straight edges D" D of the yoke -pieces D D. respectively,'and the longitudinal edges Cz C2 of the pieces C are sewed, respectively, to the straight edges A" A of the top of the front body'pattern, A.

The saving of cloth in the new method of cutting is illustrated, comparatively, in Fig. 1, in which, as will be seen, the length of fabric required for the new styles of patterns is equal. to the distance from the transverse line A, indicating the bottom edge of the front bodypiece, A,to the transverse line i3', indicating the bottom edge ot' the rear body-pieee. The saving of material, when the shirt is made up without any lining for the central portion of the yoke at the back, is equal to the width of the piece of cloth extending transversely across the fabric between the solid horizontal line B and the dotted horizontal line b. lf the central portion of the yoke on the back is lined with the same fabric, there is afm-ther saving, equal to one-li1`th of the cxtreme length, of either of the pieces c e e c c.

It will be seen that the distinguishing feature of the invention consists in forming the yoke of two principal pieces of like shape, cut from the section of fabric between the body-pattern, substantially as shown in solid lines in Fig. 1, and adapted to be turned end for end in making up the shirt.

Vhat is claimed as the invention is# 1. 'The herein-described method of cutting and making the yoke of aspart of the process of making shirts, which consists in cutting from the section of fabric between the front and back body-patterns a pattern having its opposite ends wider than the middle portions, then cutting such pattern transversely in the middle and turning each part, and finally sewing these parts together to form a yoke, as specified.

2. As part of the process of making shirts, the method herein described of cutting and making the yoke thereof, which consists in cutting from the section of fabric between the front and back body -patterns a pattern having its opposite ends wider than the middle portion, then cutting such pattern transversely in the middle, turning each part and lapping upon each other or turning over the ends, and finally sewing them together.

3. As a part of the process of making shirts, the method hereindescribed, which consists in cutting a strip from each side of the front body -pattern to form the armholes, and afterward sewing or pieeing the said strips to the straight upper or forward edges of the yoke and the edges of the front body pieces on either side of the neck, as set forth.

ALBERT BOR-CHARDT.

Vi tnesses:

ill. L. Anims, R. C. Howes.

IOO

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