US1646274A - Coat - Google Patents

Description

c D. cAPRARoLA 1,646,274

il BY MN ATTORNEY.

Patented Oct. 1B, 1927.

DOMENICK Capitaneria. or; narfriaonn,

rattan PATENT OFFICE.

nssrencn or` ONE-immY To DAVID S. V GROSS, OF BALTIMORE, 'lVIAR'YLAIN'D.A

' COAT.

Application sied May 2s, 1927'. serial No. laissait The present invention relates to coats and the method of making the same and more particularly to coats of substantially seamless construction. Y

Heretofore in the manufacture of coats of substantially seamless construction, it has been proposed to provide a coat blank comprising integral front and` rear `panels separated by cut-out portions; Such cut-out portions have been made in such a manner as to necessitate lifting one Apanel with re-.

spect to the other in. order to properly seam the edges vof the panels. This results in a coat of improper fit, or makes necessary stretchingof the coat material, or similar operations, in order that the coat shall tit properly. displacing the surface design of thecoat material, especially when the design includes cross stripes as in plaid goods. The cut-out portions,-as heretofore made, have, furthermore, also been of the wrong shape. example, according to one known method, the front edge of the cutsout portion is ap` proximately straight, the rear edge of the cut-out portionbeing concave. This construction does not permit the proper shaping of the back of the coat and also has a` tendency to result in wrinkles being formed in the vicinity of the seams joining the front and rear panels. i*

According to the present invention the coat blank is provided with cut-out portions between the front Vand rear panels, the upper ends-of the edges of each cut-out portion being in horizontal alignment so as to obviate the necessity for lifting either of the panels for properly making the seams. The front edge of the cut-out portion is made convex and the rear edge is made concave in order to obtain the desired shaping of the coat to the body of the wearer, more especially at the back, and to prevent wrinkling. To

furtherprovide for a better lit and prevent wrinkling or folding, a dart-like cut-out is provided near the lower end of the rear edge of the above described cut-out portion.

The invention will be explained more in detail by reference to the accompanying` drawings forming a part of this specifica* tion.

In the drawings:

Fig. l is a view of a coat blank lying fiat as cut;

This construction also results inL Forl kFig. 2 is a similarview of a blank for a coat of a different type. i

Jle'lerring --to Fig. '1, the `coat blank comprises front panels 10 and 11 and an intermediate or rear panel 12. The general Vcon- .tour of the blank will vary, of course, in accordance withfthe style of coat to be made. Arm hole recesses 13 and 14 are formed in the blank, as show-n, cut-out portions 15 and 16, which are substantially crescent-shaped, extend downwardly from the lower rear ends of the arm-hole recesses to apoint near the location of the side pockets 17 and 18.`

As the cut-out portions'at both sides of the coat yblank are the same, only one will be described. The cut-out portion 15 comprises front edge 19 which is convex, and a rear edge 2O which is concave, the upper ends of thcseedges meeting at a common point 21. The lower end of the` edge 19 terminates vat the pointf19, and the loweredge 20'terminates at the point 20a.

At the lower `ends of the cut-out portions 15 and 16,- there are provided triangular or dart-like cut- outs 22 and 23, identical in construction. The cut-out- 22 is formed along the front edge 19 of the cut-out portion 15 and along angular lines extending rearwardly from the 'points 19a and 20a to the point of intersection 22a, the lines 19a-22'LL being substantially horizontal. i

In properly assembling the coat blank, the front andv rear edges of the cut-out portions 15 and 16 are joined together to form a seam. The meeting point 21 of the edges 19 and 2O is spaced by widths of the material 21a from the edges of the armhole recess 13 to permit infolding of the edges to form vthe seam. The seam is started at the meetand wal-20d, being provided to facilitate the sewing operation to form a good seam free v from wrinkles. When the seam is formed,

the lower end 20a of the `edge 2O will meet the lower end 1,9a of the edge 19,` and the line 2On22fL will meet the line 19a-22, and since thelatter is slightly longer than the former, a cut-out or fold 24 is provided, there being a similar device 25 for the other side of the blank.

Referring to Fig. 2, there is shown a` modified construction suitable for a coat of a different style, which may be a so-called sport coat. The coi'istruetion is generally the saine as that shown in Fig` l, the corresponding parts being designated bythe same reference characters primed. However, Vin coats `of thisitype the back is usually more close iitting' and is providedL with plail's such as 26and 27 and a belt 28. For this reason, Y the cut-ont portionsv l5 and 16 neednot be as large as the cnt-out portions 15 and 16, and the slopes ot 1the front and rear edges 19 and 20 need not be as steep as the slopes of the edges 19 and 20.

While I have shown the `invention applied specifically to only two types'ot coats, it

`will be understood that the invention is likewise applicable to coats olf other types. It will also be understood that the coat blank may be either the pattern which is to be'foll'owed in cutting` the material or may be the niaterial itself out as indicated here in. Y Y

Having thus described iny invention. what is claimed and desired to be secnredby Letters Patent of the United States is: 1. coatblank having an arni openingl and integral front and rear panels separated by aout-out portion havingedgpes the upper ends of which ineet at said erin-opening and extend downwardly, the front edge of said cnt-ont portion being' convex and the rear Vedge of said cut-out portion being' concave,

the lower end of said concave edge terminatedge.

2. A coat blank having an arm opening` ing short of the lower end of said convex of the cut-out vportion being concave toward said rear panel, and a dart-like opening at thebase ot said @resent-shaped opening.

3. A coat blank having an arin opening,v and front and rear panels separated by a eut-ont portion having edges the upper ends Vof which ineet atl said arm opening and which extend downwardly the front edge of said cnt-ont portion beingr convex and the rear edge of said cnt-ont portion being` ooncave, the lower end of one edge terminating short of the lower end ot the other edge, said rear panelhaving plaits Cooperating with said cut-ontportions to form a blank f for a coat of the desired tit at the back of the `wearer. Y i

4i. A coat comprising a coat blank having -ront and rear panels separated by a cnt'- ont portion, the front edge of said cnt-ont portion being,r convex toward said rear panel, and the rear edge of said cnt-out portion beingr concave toward said rear panel.y p In testimony whereof, I hereunto affix my signature. f l

DOMENICK vCAPRAROLA.

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