US360507A

US360507A - borceardt

Info

Publication number: US360507A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1887-04-05
Anticipated expiration: 1904-04-05

Description

(No Model.)

3 Sheets-Sheet 1. A. BOROHARDT.

METHOD OF CUTTING SHIRTS.

Patented Apr. 5, 1887.

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A. BOROHARDT.

METHOD OF CUTTING SHIRTS.

No. 360,507. T Patented Apr. 5, 1887.

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(No Model.) 3 SheetsSheet 3.. A. BORGHARDT.

METHOD OF CUTTING SHIRTS. No. 360,507. Patented Apr. 5, 1887.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ALBERT BOROHARDT, OF HOBOKEN, NI HV JERSEY.

METHOD OF CUTTING SHIRTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part. of Letters Patent No. 360,507, dated April 5, 1867.

Application filed DECQIHLKI 23, 1886. Serial No. 222,366. (No model.)

T 0 aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALBERT BORCHARDT, of Hoboken, New Jersey, have invented certain Improvements in the Method of Cutting Shirts, of which the following is a specification.

The object of this improvement is to diminish the waste of material involved by the ordinary method of cutting shirts. This is accomplished by a method analogous to that de' scribed in United States Letters Patent No. 351,827, granted to me November 2, 1886, for an improvement in the method of making shirts,which improvement consisted in cutting from the section of fabric between the front and back body-patterns a yoke-pattern having its opposite ends wider than its middle portion, then cutting such pattern transversely in the middle, and thus forming apair of yoke-pieces, the wider ends of which are sewed together to form the yoke.

The present invention consists in cutting from a transverse section of the fabric, preferably between the two front body-patterns, four yoke-pieces of like shape, or, in other words, two pairs of yoke-pieces for forming, respectively, the yokes of two shirts. By this mode of cutting there is a saving of several inches in the length of fabric required for cutting out a single shirt.

The cloth removed from the sides of the front body-pattern to form the armholes affords the material for two strips, which are subsequently pieced, respectively, to the upper edges of the yoke and to the upper edges of the front body-pattern on either side of the neck. At one end each of these pieces is suitably curved to form portions of the neckopening.

In cutting out the cloth from the back bod ypattern for the armholes, the ar mholenotches are cut comparatively shallow, so that the upper edge of the back body-pattern is left of the full width or nearly of the full width of the fabric, and is subsequently gathered when sewed to the yoke-pieces. This gives fullness to the shirt in the back, and makes use of a portion of the fabric, which in the ordinary method of cutting out the armholes from the back body-pattern is wasted.

The accompanying drawings, illustrating my invention, are as follows: Figure 1 is a diagram representing the forms andarraugement of the various pieces of which the shirt is composed when thetwo pairs of yoke-pieces are cut from a transverse section of the fabric between two front body-patterns. Fig. 2 is a diagram showing the forms and arrangement of the various patterns when the two pairs of yoke-pieces are cut from a transverse section of the fabric between two back body-pair terns. Fig. 3 is a front elevation; and Fig. 4; a rear elevation, showing the method of uniting the patterns out according to my improved method to form the body and yoke of a shirt.

In the drawings, transverse sections are represented as broken out from the bOdypatterns, in order to permit the remaining portions to be shown on a larger scale.

In carrying out the present invention the shape of the front body-pattern A is not changed. It has the notches A A at its sides, near its upper edge, to form portions of the armholes and its upper edge is centrally notched to form the hole A forthe neck.

The back body-pattern, B, of the shirt, according to the herein-described method of cutting, has a straight upper edge, G, cut at right angles to the warp of the fabric.

WVhen the two pairs of yoke-pieces are to be formed from a transverse section of the fabric between two front body-patterns, the material is cut on the lines shown in Fig. 1, in which figure there are represented two front bodypatterns, A a, and two pairs of yoke-pieces, D D and d d. The sloping edges X X of the pair of yoke-pieces D D adjoin the sloping shoulders YY, respectively, of the front body pattern A, while the straight edges Z Z of the yoke-pieces D D adjoin the straight edges z z, respectively, of the other pair of yokepieces, (I d, the sloping edges :0 w of which adjoin the sloping shoulders 7 51 respectively, of the front body-pattern a. By this mode of cutting there are formed four separate pieces, either two of which constitute the yoke-pattern required for the yoke of a shirt. The wider ends of the two pieces are madeto meet in the middle of the back of a shirt which opens behind, or are sewed together in a shirt which opens in front.

The largest amount of saving in cutting out two shirts at once is effected by cutting the material as shown in Fig. 1, thereby making use of the portion of the fabric adjoining the sloping shoulders of the body-patterns, re-

spectively, to give the necessary increase in.

width to the ends of the yoke-pieces,which are ultimately to form the central portions of the yoke in the back of the shirt.

A saving somewhat less in extent may be effected by cutting out the patterns for two shirts at once in the manner shown in Fig. 2, in which the yoke-patterns are cut from a transverse section of the fabric between the straight edges of two back body-patterns, B b. In this case the straight edges of thetwo pairs of yoke-pieces adjoin the straight edges of the back bod y-palterns, respectively, and the sloping edges of the yoke patterns adjoin each other. By this mode of cutting, as will be seen, the wider ends of the yoke-pieces E E adjoin each other, while the narrower ends of the yoke-pieces e e adjoin each other. The saving of material is less in this mode of cutting, because no use is made of the portions of the fabric adjoining the sloping upper edges of the front body-patterns.

It will of course be seen that the four yokepieces E E e e, illustrated in Fig. 2, are cut from a transverse sectionof the fabric having parallel sides. They may therefore be cut from any portion of the fabric which is included between two straight lines at right angles to the warp of the fabric, whether those straight lines form the edges of the body-patterns, or either of them, or the straight edges of parallelograms from which other yokepatterns have been or are to be out.

In the present method of cutting, as in the method shown and described in Letters Patent of the United States No. 351,827, granted to me November 2, 1886, the cloth removed from each ofthe front body-patterns to form the armholes yields the material for two strips of cloth, F F,which are subsequently employed to piece out the yoke on the shoulders. The curved endsff form portions of the neck-opening, as shown in front elevation in Fig. 8.

When the shirt is made to open in front, the two yoke pieces D D may have their wider ends overlap, as shown in Fig. 4, which affords a double thickness of material for the central portion of the back of the neck.

It will of course be seen that if the shirt is to open behind the wider ends of the yokepieces D D may be folded back and stitched down, and the two folds be so proportioned in width as to make theirbights, respectively, meet each other in the center of the back of the shirt.

Fig. 4 illustrates the manner in which the extra width of the material on the upper edge of the back body-pattern is obtained and utilized to form the gathers G along the line of connection of the back body-pattern with the yoke-pieces. The dotted lines in Fig. 4 indicate the original shape of the back body-pat tern, and illustrate the extent to which the upper edge of the back body-pattern is diminished in width by the gathers.

The extra width of the top of the back bodypattern resulting from the shallow cutting of the armhole-notches affords the material for the gathers G. The forming of these gathers draws the sides of the pattern at the top inward to the positions which they occupy in shirts cut in the ordinary manner, in which it has heretofore been the practice to provide material for gathers at the top by making the entire body-pattern of extra width--an expedient which the present invention renders measurably unnecessary.

lVhat is claimed as my invention is- 1. As a part of the process of making shirts, the herein-described method of cutting the yokes, which consists in cutting from a trans verse section of the fabric, between two front body-patterns, four yoke-pieces, the sloping edges of which adjoin the sloping upper edges, respectively, of the said front body-patterns, the said yoke-pieces being each wider at one end than at the other, whereby any two of them are adapted to form the yoke of a shirt, as set forth.

2. As a part of the process of making shirts, the herein-described method of cutting out yoke-pieces having one end wider than the other, for the purpose of forming the yoke of a shirt by the use of two of the said pieces, the same consisting in cutting out from a transverse section of fabric four yoke-pieces, the sloping edge of each of which pieces adjoins the sloping edge of another piece which is to constitute a portion of a shirt, the yoke of which is composed of two yoke-pieces, each wider at one end than at the other, as set forth.

3. As a part of the process of making shirts, the herein-described method of cutting the back body-pattern and uniting it to the yoke, which consists in cutting from the back bodypattern comparatively shallow notches for the armholes, whereby the upper edge of the back body-pattern is left of the full or nearly the full width of the fabric, and in then forming gathers along a portion of the upper edge of the back body-pattern and sewing said gathers to the yoke-pieces, as shown and described.

ALBERT BOROHARDT.

lVitnesscs:

L. FARR, R. O. HOWES.

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