US330073A

US330073A - James c

Info

Publication number: US330073A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1885-11-10
Anticipated expiration: 1902-11-10

Description

(N0 M0d e1.)

J. C. TRACE-Y.

METHOD OF CUTTING BIFURGATED GARMENTS. No. 330,073. Patented Nov. 10, 1885.

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WITNESSES: INVENTOR:

Attorney.

N. PETERS, vhmumo m Washingtun. o c.

UNITED STATES PATENT rricn.

JAMES C. TRAGEY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

METHOD OF CUTTING BIFURCATED GARMENTS.

SPECIPICATTON forming part of Letters Patent No. 330,073, dated November 10, 1.885.

' Application filed April 2, 1885.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JAMES C. TRAOEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Cutting Bifurcated Garments, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to an improved method of cutting the parts composing bifurcated garmentssuch as drawers, pants, and overalls. The parts composing a garment of this kind and their relative position in the goods are illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

Figure 1 is a diagram showing the position of the parts as cut from the goods. Fig. 2 is a view of the garment.

Each leg of the garment is composed of a back piece, A, and a front piece, B, and a double-tapered crotch-piece, O, has half of its length in one leg and half in the other leg. These parts are cut from certain relative positions, as hereinafter set forth.

The waistbands d, fly-facings e, and pocket-facings f are cut from such positions in the goods as may be found best for the particular width of goods used.

The method of cutting the backs and fronts and the crotch-piece will now be described.

The straight edge g of each back piece forms the outside seam of each leg. This edge is taken from one selvage of the goods. The waistedge h is at a right angle with respect to the edgeg ofthe outside seam. The back body-edge i and the inside-seam edge 70 at their point of joinder form the buttocks angle 1'. From the buttocks angle to a point, Z, at or just below the knee,theinside-seam edgekisstraight. Atthis point the edge deviates at an angle, and from said point to the bottom edge, m, of the leg, the insideseam edge It is parallel with the outsideseam edge 9. Two back pieces, A A, of one garment when in the goods, have thin insideseam edges 70 adjoining, in inverted position, the buttocks-angle t" of one back piece having position adjoining the angle (knee) point Z of the other, and vice versa, and the waist-edge h of one piece is on a line even with the bottom edge of the other, and vice versa. The cutting of two back pieces for the first garment as here described results in leaving a tapered piece, 0, (one-half of the crotch-piece,) be- Serial No. 160,982. (No model.)

tween the lower part, k, of the inside-seam edge of one piece and the back body-edge, i, of the other piece.

The two back pieces for the second garment are exactly like those of the first, and are so cut from the goods that the bottom edge, m, of one piece in the first garment adjoins the same edge of one piece in the second garment. This results in the broad part of the tapered piece 0 of the second garment having position coincident with the broad part of the like piece in the first garment. From this method of cutting, therefore, a crotch-piece, G 0, having the desired double taper, is obtained without any waste. The crotch-piece is widest at the center, whereat also one side forms an angle, q, and from said angle two edges, 10, each extend straight to one of the points 0. The edges 19 are taper edges. has a single straight edge, a, between the two opposite points, 0.

The back pieces,A, for the different sizes of garments, are varied only as to thelength. For all ordinary men s sizes the backs are cut the same width or of uniform width.

The production of larger and smaller sizes required is regulated by the width of the front pieces, B. For a larger-size garment I cut a wider front piece, and for a smaller size a narrower front piece.

The front pieces, B, are cut with two straight longitudinal edges, 9 k, as shown-that is, on dinarily, three fronts together are taken from a width of goods. The top 0" of the leg of one front will adjoin the bottom 8 of the leg of another front. Thus each front piece tapers slightly from the top downward. hen the fronts and backs are thus cut, the double tapered crotch-piece 0 provides for the requisite dimension of goods in the garment seat and crotch. All parts of the garment by this method are out without curves. The cuts are made on straight lines only.

In forming a garment of parts out as here described, the edge 9 of a back piece and the edge 9 of a front piece are joined, forming the outside seam of the leg. The crotch-piece G is folded straight across the center from the angle q, and the straight edge a from the said fold-crease to one point, 0, is sewed to the edge 15 of the front piece of one leg, and one taper edge, 1), to the inside-seam edge 7c of The other side of the crotch-piece the back piece of the same leg. The edges 70 and 7a of a back piece are joined with the edge 70 of a front piece, while a back body-edge, z, of one back piece joins the like edge of the other back piece. This secures one tapered point of the crotch-piece in one leg. The other point of the crotch-piece is in the other leg, and the straight fold-crease across the center from the angle q forms a seamless crotch for the garment.

The shape of the crotch-piece and its position in the garment here described is substantially the same as that shown in United States Letters Patent granted me May 6, 1884; but this particular method of cutting the backs and fronts and the crotch-piece is believed to be shown and described here for the first time.

Having described my invention, I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1. The herein-described method of cutting bifurcated garments-such as drawers, pants, and overallsconsisting incutting the back piece, A, for one leg with a straight edge, 9, for the outside seam, and the back body-edge, z, and inside-seam edge 70 from the knee-angle lto its joinder with said body-edge, forming the buttocks-angle v3, and continuing the inwaist-edge h is even with the bottom edge, m, of the-first piece and its inside-seam edge It in inverted position will adjoin the like edge of the first back piece, and its buttocks-angle i and knee-angle Z will have position adjoining the knee-angle and buttocks-angle, respectively, of the first back piece, and the one-half of the crotch-piece 0, comprising that which is left between the lower part, is, of the inside-seam edge of one piece and the back body of the other piece, as set forth.

2.'The method of cutting bifurcated garmentssuch as drawers, pants, and overallsconsisting in cutting the back leg-pieces, A, with a straight edge, g, for the outside seam, and the back body-edge, t, and inside-seam edge 7c both straight to form-the buttocksangle 1', cutting the front pieces, B, with two straight longitudinal edges, y W, so that the fronts shall have a slight taper. from the top to the bottom, and cutting a double-tapered crotch-piece, O, with a straight edge, a, be-

tween the two extreme points of said double J. o. TRAOEY.

Witnesses:

W. T. BOGERT, G. L. HATHAWAY.