US298322A

US298322A - Drawers

Info

Publication number: US298322A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1884-05-06
Anticipated expiration: 1901-05-06

Description

(ModeL) J. G. T'RACEY.

DRAWERS. No. 298,322. Patented May 6, 1884.

I Inventor.-

' y' CAM/02 Attorney.

Unrrnn S rarns PATENT rrrcn JAMES C. TRAOEY, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.-

DRAWERS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 298,322, dated May 6, 1884.

Application filed July 24, 1883. (ModeL),

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J. O. TRACEY, a citizen of the United States, residing in Baltimore, Maryland, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in the Manufacture of Drawers, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in drawers for mens and boys wear; and it consists in an improved method of cutting from the goods the parts of which the drawers are formed, and also in the completed article, having certain features, as hereinafter described, and pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate my invention, Figure l is a front View of the upper part of a pair of drawers. Fig. 2 is a view of one-half of a pair of drawers laid so as to show the inner side of the leg. Fig. 3 is a diagram showing the position in the piece of goods of the several parts which C0111- prise the drawers. I

The letter A designates one-half of the drawers cut in asingle piece. The front edge, I), of the entire half, which is also the front edge of the leg-seam, is straight from the waistedge a of the body to the bottom edge, (1, of the leg, which is tied about the ankle. This straight front edge, b, is always taken from the selvage of the goods.

The letter 0 designates the back body-edge, and f the back edge of the leg. These two edges form at their point of joinder the buttocks-angle 6. All the edges of the half of the drawers constitute straight lines. Both the halves are alike. The waist-edge, at the side which comes over the hi p,ha-s a V-shaped gore or plait, g. The waistband h comprises four pieces, which are of the usual pattern. The facings I for the body-front have a straight edge, j, and their lower end terminates in a point, It. The crotch-piece L is a single continuous piece, and has on one side a straight edge, a, from the point 0 at one end to the point 0 at the other. On the other side the edges 12 commence at the center, where they form an angle, g, which is the widest part, and from this angle these edges extend to the points at either end. Thereby the said crotch-piece tapers on one side from the center angle, q, to

the end points. The straps r for the back buckle are of the usual pattern.

The waistbands, facings, crotch-piece, and bucklestraps, with the half or leg pieces, comprise all the parts to make a pair of drawers. These parts have position in the piece of goods as shown in the diagram, Fig. 8. y designates one selvage edge of the piece of goods, and z the other. The straight front edge, I), of the one half of one pair of drawers is taken from the selvage 1 The straight front edge of the other half is taken from the same selvage, the waist-edge c of the two halves abutting. The straight front edges of the next pair of drawers are taken from the other selvage, z, and the tapering back edge, f, of the leg whose front edge is cut from one selvage extends along and is the counterpart of the tapering back edge of the leg which has its front cut from the other selvage. As these adj oining tapering edges are straight, there is no waste whatever in the goods. All the other parts which are necessary to comprise a pair of drawers are taken from that portion of the piece of goods embraced on two sides between the back body-seams, e, of the two halves and the selvage, and on the other diametrically-opposite two sides, between the bottom edge, (7, of the leg of one pair and the bottom edge of the leg of another pair, as shown in the diagram. The straight edge j of the facings I is attached to the straight front edge, I), of the drawers at each side of the fly-opening, and the lower point, k, of the facing extends down to and is directly attached to the seamless crotch-piece L, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The vertical edges j of the two facings are'also connected together for a short space above the crotch-piece. (Indicated at s.) This connection of facings to the continuous or seamless crotch gives strength and stability to the garment. The crotch-piece L is folded at the widest part or straight acrossfrom the center to the point 0. It is then attached to the drawer-legs by sewing the straight edgen of one half to the straight front edge, I), of one leg, and the same edge of the other half to the straight front edge of the other leg. Thereby the fold at the center angle becomes the seamless crotch.

angle, q. Thus each half tapers from the fold The two taper edges 19 of the crotch-piece are each sewed to one of the back edges, f, of the legs. One of the points 0 of each end of the crotchpiece is in each drawer-leg below the knee. The peculiarity of this construction is that from the waist to the ankle the body part on each side of the fly-opening and each leg has a continuous straight edge, I), (the selvage,) and to this edge the straight edge a of the seamless crotch-piece is attached, as seen in Fig. 2.

The advantages of this method of cutting and constructing are, first, great economy in goods, the saving actually effected thereby being all the way from sixteen to twenty-five per cent. of material in making drawers from size twenty-eightinches at the waist to size forty inches at the waist; second, incidentally greater strength, and, third, great comfort to the wearer.

I am aware that crotch-pieces having an elongated diamond shape have been used, as shown, for instance, in United States Letters Patent No. 236,012, and I do not here claimsuch; but the method of cutting the parts and the particular manner of connecting the crotch to the parts are features of my own devising. Having described my invention, I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent of United States- 1. The herein-described method of cutting drawers, consisting in cutting the part comprising the one half of the body and one leg so as to have from the waist to the ankle a continuous straight front edge, I), and taking said edge from one selvage of the goods, taking the same edge of the other half-body and other leg from the same selvage, the waist-edge of the two halves abutting, taking the straight front edges of the next pair of drawers from the other selvage of the goods, and extending the tapering back edge, f, of the leg whose front is cut from one selvage along the tapering back edge of the leg which has its front cut from the other selvage, and finally cutting all the other parts necessary to complete one pair of drawers from that portion of the goods between the back body-seams, e, of the two halves and the selvage, as shown and described.

2. In a pair of drawers, acontinuous seamless crotch-piece, L, having a straight front edge, a, widest at the crotch or center, and one of the tapering points extending down each drawer-leg, in combination with front facings, I, on each side ofthe fly-opening, having their lower points, It, attached directly to the said seamless crotch-piece, as set forth.

WM. F. KUETHE, THOMAS BEOOM.