US2422914A

US2422914A - Garment trimming machine

Info

Publication number: US2422914A
Application number: US321894A
Authority: US
Inventors: Lehde Henry
Original assignee: PHILIP L RUDICH; SAMUEL SHEFSKY
Current assignee: PHILIP L RUDICH; SAMUEL SHEFSKY
Priority date: 1940-03-02
Filing date: 1940-03-02
Publication date: 1947-06-24
Anticipated expiration: 1964-06-24

Description

June 24, 1947.

H. LEHDE 2,422,914

GARMENT THINKING MACHINE Filed March 2, 1940 V 3' Sheets-Sheet 1 i [fairy 11111:

7 BY D ATTORNEYS June 24, 1947. H. LEHDE 2,422,914

GARMENT TRIMMING mourns File dllarch 2, 1940 s Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR yenry [elm e BY? ATTORNEY- Patented June 24, 1947 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT 'mmmmc MACHINE Henry Lehde, Brooklym N. Y., assignor, by direct and mesne assignments, to Samuel Shefsky, Brooklyn, and Philip L. Rudich, New York, N. Y.

Application March 2, 1940, Serial No. 321,894 56 Claims. (Cl. 164- 71) This invention relates to improvements in dress or garment trimming machines and provides a fully automatic devicefor quickly and accurately trimming the bottom of a dress or the like to a straight line at any desired length, while it is on a dress form, this operation being commonly One object of the invention is to make it unnecessary to measure the length of the dress being cut, it being possible to cut any desired length of dress by a simple adjusting means,v

Another object is to eliminate any necessity for the operator to adjust the bottom of the dress in any way or to prepare it for the cutting operation, regardless of the type .of dress material, or the size, shape and number of folds in the dress.

Another object is to make the operation of the machine completely automatic upon simply pressing a pedal and to eliminate all necessity for the operator to bend over to operate the machine.

A further object is to provide a quick and simple means for interchanging various sizes of dress forms on the machine, so that it may be conveniently used where a wide range of dresssizes are handled.

An-additional object is to provide a marking device of this character which enables marking of the dress at any desired distance above the cut,

and thereby assists in making an accurate hem.

Referring to the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a vertical section of the complete in-.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary vertical section, on an enlarged scale, taken on line 8-6, Fig. 1.

As shown in Fig. 1, a hollow central column I8 is fitted to a base I forming the main frame of the machine. A tube 88 is fastened within the column I8 and a hollow plug I21 is fastened within the lower end of this tube. A rod 88 is threaded at its lower end, and passes through the plug I21,

and above the plug I21 a, nut 88 is placed on this rod, and below this plug is placed the assembly of a washer, 84, a spring 88 between the plug I21 and washer 84, and a nut 88 on this rod below the washer 84. The nut 88 is for the purpose of adjusting the downward pressure of the spring 88 exerted on the rod 88. A foot lever 8 having a pedal is pivoted on the base by a pin 4|. The upper end of the tube 88 has a beveled surface 98| which is in contact with the beveled surface 82| of a wedge 82, which is fastened to the upper end of the rod. 88. A tube 8|, which supports a dress form I8I, is slidingly fitted over the tube 98 and the wedge 82. pulled down against the beveled surface 88| of the tube 88 by the spring 88, so that the wedge 82 and the tube 98 exert side pressure against the inside of the tube 9|. This pressure holds the tube 9| and the attached dress form |8I at a fixed height. when the pedal or the root lever 8 is depressed. the rod 88 is lifted, compressing the spring 83 and raising the wedge 82. The tube 8| is then released and the dress form |8I can be raised or lowered to any desired height. Releasing the foot operated lever 8 causes the wedge 82 to. hold the dress form at this height due to the clamping action of the tube 98 and wedge 82 against the tube 8|. On the tube 9| is a collar I88 having a set screw I82, which collar can be fastened to this 1 tube at any desired position, and when the dress form I8| is lowered untilthe collar I88 rests upon the upper end of the frame column I8, the height of the dress form MI is definitely established. Thus, the graduated marks indicated at I28 upon the tube 9| can be used in connection with the collar I88 to indicate the length to which the dress II8 will be cut by the shearing edges of cutting members 82 and 88 of a cutter mechanism which will be later described.

On the underside or base of the dress form I8I isanounted a large washer or attaching plate 88 to the lower side of which is fastened a shoulder ring 88. This ring is 'rotatably mounted on the upper side of the plate 81, which is attached to tube 8|, this tube being provided axially with an upwardly projecting centering stem or knob I88. On the circumferential part of the plate 91 are pivoted four slotted latches or cams 88. These are turned by four pins or studs 85 on a plate 88 rotatably mounted on the tube 8|, these pins engaging with slots 85| in the outer ends of the latches 96. when the plate 84 is rotatedon the tube 8| in a direction to move the inner ends of latches or cams'98 away from the axis of the knob I88, these latches 88 assume the position shown inFig. 2, in which their inner ends clear the Path of the ring 88 and permit the latter to Normally this wedge 82 is be placed on the plate 91. As shown in Fig. 1,

can be rotated conveniently by the operator.

Thus, a series of dress forms of various sizes, each equipped with a ring 98, can be quickly attached to or detached from the supportin plate 91 by manipulating the shifting plate 94. To control the motion of this shifting plate, a. stationary plate 93 is fastened to the upper part of the tube 9|, beneath the plate 94 and the latter is provided with a stop pin or stud I25 which extends into a wide notch or slot I24 formed in the edge of plate 93. The motion of plate 94 is therefore limited by the stud I25 striking either of the sides of the slot I24. A compression spring I22 is placed between the studs HI and I23 which are mounted, respectively, on the plates 94 and 93. By these means a tension is maintained between the studs I2I and I23 which urges them away from one another and causes the spring I22 to be alternately compressed and expanded as the stud I25 moves from one side of the dead center to the other relative to stud I23. This assures that when the plate 94 is operated, the latches 98 will remain in a completely closed or a completely open position.

A drum-shaped casting 69 is fastened to the central column I6 and a shearing ring or annular cutter 68 is clamped between the top of this drum and a retaining or clamping ring Ill by means of screws I I. When the dress form II'II is adjusted to the proper height by setting the collar I83 as described, the dress I I is placed on the form and allowed to hang over the edge of the shearing ring 58. An upwardly tapering conical guard 81 is attached to the clamping ring III, which engages the inner side of the folds of the dress and causes tlsem to fall clear of the top of the clamping ring I Directly beneath the drum 59 a freely rotating turret or supporting gear wheel I1 is mounted upon the column I8 and held in position thereon by collars 2I and 25 secured to the column. Two spaced horizontal guide bars or arms 3I and 32- are mounted in guides TI and "on the gear wheel I'I so as to slide radially thereon, as shown inlF'ig. 3. Normally these arms and the associated cutting assembly mounted at their outer ends are urged outwardly or to the left in the drawings, by the springs 12 and I3 shown with their center sections broken out in Fig. 3. These springs are attached at one end to a spacer bar I9, fastened to the rear ends of the bars 3| and 32 and at their other ends they are attached to a bar I4, which is I rigidly attached to the gear I1 by extension bars I5 and 1 8 and a bracket 'IGI. Mounted on the hub 24 of the gear H are two pulleys l9 and 20, see Fig. 6, each of which has a separate length of

cable

22 and 23 looped around it. The upper ends of these cables are clamped to an equalizer bar 29, attached to a bolt 38. Th latter is attached to the underside of a plate 41, Fig. 4, forming part of the cutter assembly. Any inward pull on the equalizer bar 29 will slide the horizontal bars 3| and 32 inwardly, stretching the springs I2 and I3. The lower ends of cables or flexible lines parts of a yoke o swivel head which slides ver- 22 and 23 are clamped toidiametrically opposite tically on the column I8. The upper an

lower rings

28 and 28 are fastened together and a middle ring 21 is recessed into the lower ring and free to rotate between the upper and lower rings. To the upper ring 28 are attached two upright rods or

studs

81 and 88 which extend through holes in the gear I1 and compel the

rings

26 and 28 to rotate with this gear. Two studs III and II are attached at their upper end to the middle ring 21, and extend through holes in a guide collar 45 secured to the column I6, thereby preventing the ring 21 from rotation. The studs I0 and I I are fastened at their lower ends to a guide plate I4, which surrounds the column IB. Near their lower ends the studs I9, II are pivotally secured to the two sections of a foot lever I I! by the studs I2 and I3. The foot lever III is pivoted at its rear end to the upper end of the members of a link II6 which is in turn pivoted at its lower end to the base I5. A downward motion of the foot lever I I1 is transmitted to the yoke or swivel and to the

cables

22 and 23, which pull the horizontal arm or bar assembly against the pull exerted by springs 12 and I3. Upon releasing the lever III the horizontal arm or bar assembly is drawn outwardly by these springs, and the lever H1 is lifted.

Part of the cutting mechanism includes the rotary blade or shearing disc 82 which cooperates 41 and an upper plate 48 connected with this lower plate by upright posts or spacers 5|, 52, 53 and 54 as shown in Figs. 1, 3 and 4. The lower plate 41 is attached to the bars or arms 3I and 32. Below the shearing disc 62 the cutter shaft 58 is provided with a sprocket wheel I33 and between the lower and

upper plates

41, 48 of the supporting carriage this shaft is provided with a friction drive wheel or pinion 46. As the cutting mechanism moves inwardly by action of the foot lever I II, the friction wheel 48 engages with a rubber tire II on the rim III forming the base of the drum 89. At the same time the shearing disc 52 is moved inwardly just below the edge of the shearing ring 88. Further motion of the foot lever II'I lifts the disc 82, which is normally held downward by the spring 49 interposed between the upper carriage plate 48 and the friction driving wheel 48, and causes the shearing disc 62 to engage with the shearing ring 88. This is accomplished by the mechanism attached to the equalizer bar 29 which is constructed as follows:

At its center the equalizer bar 29 is provided with a bolt 38, which is pivoted on 3, lug 40. The latter is attached to the elbow lever 35 which is pivoted ona pin 35, supported by the studs I28 and I29, which are fastened to the lower side of plate 41. Below the lower arm of the lever 35 is arrangeda leaf I3 I which is normally pressed against the lever 35 by a compression spring I32 interposed between the upper side of the lower arm of this lever and the upper end of a bolt 31 which has its lower end connected with this plate. Whenan inward pull is exerted on the equalizer bar 29, the leaf I 3I exerts an upward pressure on the squ'--c bushing 34 which rests on this leaf and eng. with a slot 23I at the end of the lower arm of the lever 35. The

bushing" actsas athmstbearingtotransmit the upward force to the combination collar and stud 39, which is adiustably mounted on the cutter shaft 58 by providing the upper end of the stud 38 with a screw thread which engages with a threaded opening in the lower end of the cutter shaft and thereby enables the effective length of this shaft to be increased or decreased. After adjustment the stud is held inplace against rotation on the cutter shaft 58 by means of the lock nut 38. The stop plate 33 mounted on the underside of the carriage plate 41 is adapted to be engaged by the lower arm of the lever 35 and thereby limit the. downward motion of lever 35.

During the initial part of the downward movement of the foot lever to move the cutter carriage inwardly together with the horizontal bars or arms 3|, 32 and the cutting assembly, the pull upon the equalizer bar 29 and the upward force upon the bushing 34 is insumcient to compress either of the springs I32 or 49. But when the friction wheel 46 comes in contact with the rubber tire I I, the inward sliding motion of the horizontal arms ii and 32 is arrested and during the continued downward movement of the foot lever I II a sufficient force is exerted by the elbow lever 35 cutting action in addition to the higher peripheral speed. Thus. it effects a wiping shearing action it would have if it merely rolled around the shearing ring 68.

To assist in starting the shearing action, the shearing edges of the cutting

members

62 and 68 are slightly inclined to each other. As shown in Fig. 6, the upper .and lower faces of the gear II are not strictly parallel, the upper'face being slanted slightly so that the gear as seen is thinner at the right edge of Fig. 6. assembly mounted on the bars 3| and 32 is slightly tilted, and the disc 62 is not strictly parallel with the shearing ring 68, thereby causing the operative cutting edge portion of the shearing disc 82 to be tipped upwardly as it approaches the operative cutting edge portion of the shearing ring 68, whereby the operative parts of these shearing members are held in their most efiective relation and. a clean cut of the dress is produced for trimming or sloping the same.

and the leaf I3I to lift the shaft 58 and the disc the rubber tire 1|, the spring 49, being the next stronger, will be compressed to allow lifting of the shearing disc 62. Finally when the shearing disc 62 strikes the shearing ring 68, the strongest spring I32 is compressed to maintain a steady and uniform pressure between the shearing edges of the disc 62 and ring 68 regardless of wear 'of the edges or inaccuracies in alignment of these members .or parts associated therewith.

The foot lever I I1 is held down while the shearing disc 62 is traveling around the ring 68. .When the dress trimming operation is complete, the lever III is released, causing the motor to stop and the cutting assembly to move away from the shearing ring 68.

I Smoothing means are provided for use in con- Then when this motion is arrested by the friction wheel 46 striking Simultaneously with the compression of the spring I32, the bolt II8 adjustably mounted on the foot lever II'I strikes'the push button switch 44 and the lever II9, which holds the bolt II8 on the foot lever I I1, is pressed against the latter by a spring I28. This spring allows additional motion of the foot lever III after the switch 44 has been closed.- The operation of the switch 44 starts the motor 88, which drives the gear H by means of the pinion 82. The latter is not directly connected to the motor shaft, but is driven through fastened to the column I6 by the U-bolt 42 and the collar 45.

The rotation of gear H by the motor 88 causes the cutting assembly to swing around the dress. The friction wheel 46, being in contact with the tire I I, is rotated on its axis and drives the shearing disc 62, while the assembly as a whole is moving around the drum 69. Since the lower edge of the drum 69 is of larger diameter than the shearing ring 68, and since the shearing disc 62 is of larger diameter than the friction wheel 46, the shearing disc 62 is rotated at a relatively on the plate 48 of the cutter carriage in front of the

plates

48, 59 of the cutter carriage and is constructed as follows: A driving sprocket wheel I33 on the shaft 58 rotates a driven sprocket wheel I86 and a rear retaining pulley I connected therewith by,

means of a chain belt I84 passing around these sprocket wheels, said driven sprocket I86 and pulley being mounted on a. shaft 286 which is joumaled on the

plates

48, 59 of the cutter car-' riage.

Two

belts

51 and 58 pass around the pulley I85 and an intermediate retaining pulley H8 and, respectively, the idler pulleys 55 and 56. The rear and front retaining pulleys I85, II8 are arranged in front. and in rear of a line extending from the axis" of the drum 69 to the axis of the cutter shaft 58 and adjacent to the periphery of this drum. The idler pulleys 55, 56 arearranged below and above the outer part of the cutter disc 62 and these idler pulleys are mounted, respectively, on tightening levers I88 which are pivoted on apost I81 of the cutter carriage and each is pulled outwardly for keeping the respective belt taut by means of a spring I89 connecting the respective tightening lever with the adjacent part of the cutter carriage, as shown in Fig. 2. The belt 51 is below the shearing disc 62 while the belt 58 is arranged above it.

A second intermediate pulley H2 is joumaled the pulley H8 and is driven from the latter by the group of three intermediate retaining belts I II passing around the pulleys I I8, II2 above the plane of the cutter members 82, 68. This pulley H2 in turn drives a front pulley II4 by means of a group of three front retaining belts I I 3 arranged above the plane of the cutting line, this front pulley being joumaled on the foremost part of Thus, the cutting a the plate 48 of the cutter carriage. By this means a system of retaining belts is provided which extends along the periphery of the drum from a point in rear of the cutting station to a point considerably in front of this station and which belts cooperate with the adjacent surface of the drum for holding the dress above the cutting line so that the same is not displaced during the operation of trimming the same by the cutters 62,-68. 1

As the cutting assembly is moved inwardly prior to beginning the cutting operation, the

belts

51 and 58 hold the dress flrmly against the drum above and below the shearing ring 68 for a considerable distance around the circumference of the. dress and the drum, but the belts Hi and H3 do not press throughout their length against the drum but operate mainly to gather the garment inasmuch as they form, with the adjacent part of the drum, a rearwardly converging passage or throat whereby the body of the garment and any pleats therein are held in place and directed to .the cutting station in a proper nonmisplaced condition. This is of considerable help in starting the cut and in securing a. positive cutting action of the cutters on'the dress. As the cutting members begin to rotate, the

belts

51, 58, HI and H3 are driven in the direction of the arrows associated with the same in Fig. 2. The

speeds of the belts are so determined that there is little or no relative motion between these belts and the dress. Although the cutting assembly is rotating clockwise around the dress, that side of the belt system opposite to the dress is moving in the opposite direction so that the resultant motion with respect to the dress is zero. As a result the belt retaining system produces a substantially radial compression of the folds of the dress, regardless of their shape or size.

The relative dimensions of the stepped pulleys H0 and H2 are such that successive belt groups are driven at a slightly higher speed than the preceding ones. The intermediate belt group I I l travels slightly faster than the

rear belt group

51 and 58, and front belt group H3 travels periphery enters the outlet 55I to withdraw the powder while the diametrically opposite part thereof is adapted to engage the outer side of the dress on the guard 61 above the trimming line. This marking wheel is held against vertical movement between upper and lower brackets 8, 642 arranged on the adjacent part of the powder container 85. Rotation of this marking wheel is effected by an upright shaft 53 journaled in a bearing on the plate 59 provided at its lower end with a gear wheel 60 which meshes with a gear wheel Bl secured to the upper end of the cutter shaft 50. The upper part 63! of the marker shaft is'square or of other non-circular form and passes through a, correspondingly shaped hole in the center of the marking wheel and through the adjacent parts of the brackets 8, 642, as shown in Figs. 1 and 4. As the container and marking wheel are shifted vertically a driving connection is maintained between this wheel and shaft. The post 66 may be provided with graduations, as shown, to facilitate adjustment of the marking apparatus for varying the position of the mark relative to the lower edge of the dress for producing a hem of any desired width.

I claim as my invention:

1. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, means for cutting the bottom of the garment, and means for smoothing the garment material being out, said smoothing means. including a smoothing belt, means for moving said smoothing belt into and out of pressing engagement with the garment material draped around said drum surface, and means for driving said smoothing belt.

2. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface having .a circular cross-section supported by said standard and around which slightly faster than belt group III. It will thus be noted that the belt groups farthest away from the center or cutting station of the dress run at slightly higher speeds. By a proper selection of the speeds and positions of these retaining belts,

very satisfactory results can be secured under all operating conditions. -The belt groups Ill and H3 are preferably elastic to simplify the problem of keeping them tight.

For the purpose of marking the dress to indicate where the same should be folded while hemming the same, means are provided for effecting such marking at the same time the dress is being trimmed, these means being preferably constructed as follows:

The numeral 65 represents a cup or receptacle adapted to contain a light powder 233 and arranged above the upper plate 59 of the cutter carriage and provided in the lower part of its side wall facing the drum 81 with an outlet 55l through which the powder is discharged. The bottom 652 of this container slopes toward the outlet thereof so as to direct the powder to said outlet. This container is, supported on the plate 59 by a post rising from said plate and passing througha lug 230 on the outer side of the container on which the latter may be adjusted vertically and held in' place by a set screw I30. The powder is withdrawn from the container by a marking wheel 54 which with one part of its 75 the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a cutting disc'adjacent the lower edge of said drum, means for rotating said cutting disc, and means for smoothing the garment material adjacent said cutting disc, said smoothing means including, a continuous smoothing belt positioned I adjacent said cutting disc, means for pressing one run of said belt against the lower portion of the garment draped around said drum surface, and means for driving said belt.

3. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a rotatably mounted cutting disc for cutting the bottom of the garment, means for rotating said cutting disc, a movable support, spaced belt pulleys rotatably mounted on said support, a smoothing belt trained around said spaced pulleys, means for establishing relative movement between said garment form 'and cutting disc thereby to progressively cut the bottom portion of the garment, means for manipulating said movable support to move one run of the belt into and out of pressing engagement with the garment material draped around said drum surface, and means for rotating one of said belt supporting pulleys to drive said garment pressing belt in the same direction as the direction of rotation of said cutting disc.

4. In a garment trimming machine, the combinationof means for naturally supporting the garment to be trimmed, a rotary cutter mounted rear and in front of said cutter and around which said retaining belts pass, said carriage upon which said cutter and pulleys are mounted being movable radially relative to the axis of said garment supporting means.

5. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means for naturally supporting the garment to be trimmed, a rotary cutter mounted on a carriage which is movable bodily in an orbital path around the supporting means for trimming the garment mounted thereon, means for smoothing the garment to be trimmed on said supporting means including main retaining belts adapted to firmly hold said garment against said supporting means above and below the cutting line, an intermediate retaining belt adapted to engage the garment above said cutting line, a front retaining belt adapted to engage said garment above said cutting line, and pulleys mounted on said carriage and upon which said belts are. arranged, said carriage upon which said cutter and pulleys are mounted being movable in a radial direction of said orbital path for carrying said cutter, belts and pulleys toward and from said garment supporting means.

6. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a pair of cooperating cutting elements each having cooperating cutting peripherieapositioned adjacent the lower edge of said drum surface, one of said elements being slightly tilted with respect to the other element to improve the cutting action, a continuous smoothing belt adapted to press the garment material against said drum surface adjacent the cooperating cutting edges of said cutting elements, and means for driving said smoothing belt and rotating at least one of said cutting elements.

'7. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a rotatably mounted cutting disc positioned adjacent the lower edge of said drum for cutting the garment material, a smoothing belt positioned adjacent said cutting disc, means for moving the garment engaging run of said belt toward and away from said drum surface, a driving motor, means associated with said motor for driving said cutting disc, and means associated with said motor for. driving said smoothing belt.

8. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard and around which th lower portion of the garment may be draped, a rotatably mounted cutting disc for cutting the bottom of the garment, a containing said smoothing belt and its support in retracted position, and a motor fordriving said cutting disc and smoothing belt.

9. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a rotatably mounted shearing disc 'for shearing the bottom of the garment, a con.

tinuous smoothing belt for smoothing the dress material being sheared positioned adjacent said shearing disc, a movable support for said smoothing belt, means for moving said support toward and away from said drum surface to move said belt into and out of pressing engagement againstthe lower portion of the garment draped around said drum surface, resilient means for normally retaining said smoothing belt and its support in retractedposition, a driving motor for driving said smoothing belt and shearing disc, and a switch device automatically operative to throw said smoothing belt driving motor into and out of operation when said belt support is moved toward'and away from said drum surface.

10. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a carriage movable. toward and away from said drum surface, a cutting disc rotatably mounted on said carriage. horizontally spaced belt supporting pulleys rotatably mounted on said carriage on opposite sides of said cutting disc, a smoothing belt trained around said pulleys and positioned adjacent said cutting disc,

. means for moving said carriage horizontally toward and'away from said drum surface, a driving motor, and means operatively connected to said motor for driving said cutting disc and smoothing belt.

11. Ina garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a pair of horizontally'spaced belt supporting pulleys, a pair of cooperating shearing discs each havin circular shearing periph eries positioned adjacent the lower edge of said drum surface and between said spaced pulleys,

a continuous smoothing belt trained around said .spaced pulleys adapted to press the garment materlal against said drum surface adjacent the ootinuous smoothing belt for smoothing the dress lower portion of the garment draped around said drum surface, resilient means for normally re-. [6 er distance away from said drum surface than operating cutting edgesof said shearing discs, means for rotating one of said shearing discs relative to the periphery of the other shearing disc, and means for driving said smoothing belt so as to retainthe lower portion of the garment in fixed position against said drumsurface during the shearing operation."

12. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface having a circular cross-section supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a cutting disc adjacent the lower edge of said drum, means for rotating said cutting disc, a pair ofhorizontally spaced primary pulleys between which said cutting disc i positioned, a primary belt trained around said primary pulleys, means for pressing one run of said primary belt against the lower portion of the garment draped around said drum surface, means for rotating one of said primary pulleys to drive said primary belt, a pair of spaced secondary pulleys spaced a great- 11 said primary pulleys, means providing a driving connection between one of said primary pulleys and one or said secondary pulleys, and a gathering belt trained around said secondary pulleys.

13. In a garment trimming machine, a standard, a garment form on said standard naturally supporting a garment to be trimmed, a wall of generally circular cross-section supported on said standard below said garment form and around which the lower portion or the garment may drape, a rotatable cutting disc, means ior rotating said cutting disc, means for causing relative movement between said garment form and cutting disc to trim the garment supported on said form, a smoothing belt positioned adjacent said cutting disc, means ror driving said belt and cutting disc, and means for pressing said belt against the lower portion of the garment bein trimmed.

14. In a garment trimming machine, means for naturally supporting a garment to be motor switch.

trimmed, a wall member around which the lower portion orthe garment may drape, a rotary cutter for trimming the lower portion of the garment, retaining belts arranged above and below the cutting line of said cutter and adapted to hold the garment to be trimmed against said wall member, pulleys in rear and in front of, said cutter around which said retaining belts are trained, means for driving said belts, and means for moving said retaining belts generally radially relative to the axis of said garment supporting means. I

15. In a garment trimming machine, means for naturally supporting a garment to be trimmed, a wall member around which the lower portion of the garment may drape, a rotary cutter for trimming the lower portion of the garment, primary retaining belts adapted toflrmly hold said garment against said wall member above and below the cutting line, an intermediate retaining belt adapted to engage said garment above the cutting line, a front retaining belt adapted to engage said garment above the cutting line, pulleys for supporting said belts, means for driving said 18. In a garment trimming machine g. base, a column fixed to said base, a garment form supported on said column, a pair of cooperating shearing discs, a carriage rotatably supporting one of said shearing discs, a motor for rotating one oi said discs, a motor switch, means for supporting said carriage for radial movement generally toward and away from said column, a manually operated lever, and mechanism associated with said lever and carriage whereby manipulation of said lever operates to move said carriage toward and away from said column, operates to place said shearing discs into and out or shearing contact, and operates to manipulate said motor switch.

' 19. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting column, means for mounting a garment form on said column, a cutting element, a carriage rotatably supporting said cutting element,

a member rotatably supported on said column, a motor for rotating said member, a horizontally extending rack fixed to said member, guide bars supporting said carriage and movable along said rack generally radially toward and away from said column, resilient means for retaining said carriage in a normally predetermined spaced relationship from said column, a manually operated lever, flexible means connecting said lever to said carriage whereby manipulation of said lever will operate to draw said carriage and said cutting element supported thereon closer to said column against the action or said resilient means.

20. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting column, means for mounting a garment belts, and means for moving said belts horizontally toward and from said wall member,

16. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support a garment iorm, a member having a generally cylindrical surface supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a rotary cutter for trimming the lower portion of the garment, a horizontally disposed retaining belt having one run thereof positioned to firmly hold the garment against said cylindrical surface adjacent said rotary cutter, and power means for rotating said cutter and driving said retaining belt.

1'1. In a garment trimming machine, a base, a column fixed to said base, a garment i'orm supported on said column, a pair of cooperating cutting elements, a carriage rotatably supporting one of said cutting elements, a motor for driving one of said cutting elements, a motor switch, means for movably supporting said carriage for radial movement generally toward and away from said column, a manually operated lever, and mechanism associated with said lever and said carriage whereby movement of said lever in one direction operates to move said carriage toward said column, further movement of said lever in the same direction operates to place the cutting edges of said cutting elements in cutting form on said column, a shearing disc, a carriage rotatably supporting said shearing disc, a drivin gear having a hub portion rotatably supported on said column, a motor for driving said gear, a pair of horizontally extending rack members fixed to said gear, guide bars supporting said carriage and slidable along said rack members generally radially toward and away from said column, resilient means for retaining. said carriage in a normally predetermined spaced relationship from said column, a manually operated lever, flexible means connecting said lever to said carriage whereby manipulation of said lever will operate to draw said carriage and said shearing disc supported thereon closer to said column against the action of said resilient means.

21. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting column adapted to support the garment to be trimmed, a cutting element, means rotatably supporting said cutting element, a. horizontally extending guide rack rotatably supported on said column, guide bars movable along said guide rack supporting said cutting element supporting means, resilient means for retaining said-guide bars in predetermined extended position, a hub portion rotatably supported on said column, a pulley rotatable on said hub portion. a swivel head axially and rotatably movable on said column, a flexible cable trained around said pulley having one end thereof fixed to said cutting element supporting means and its other end secured to said swivel head, a yoke rotatably connected to said swivel head axially movable on said column, and a manually operated lever adapted to manipulate said yoke to move said cutting element to a point closer to said. column against the action of said resilient means.

22. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting column adapted to support a garment to ment supporting means and its other end secured to said swivel head. a yoke rotatably connected to said swivel head axially movable on said column, and a manually operated lever adapted to manipulate said yoke to move said cutting element to a point closer to said column a ainst the action. of said resilient means.

23. ha garment trimming machine,ja supporting column adapted to support the garment to be trimmed, a cutting element, a carriage rotatably supporting said cutting element, horizontally extending guide racks rotatably supported on said column, guide bars slidable along said guide racks supporting said carriage, resilient means for retaining said guide bars in predetermined extended position, a, hub portion rotatably supported on said column, a swivel head axially and rotatably movable on said column a pair of pulleys rotatably mounted on said hub portion. flexible cables trained around said pulleys each having .one end thereof connected to said guide 14 ment to be trimmed upon manipulation of said lever. and a motor switch adapted to be operated by movement of said lever after said cutting element has beenbrought into contact with the garment to be trimmed.

2'7. In a garment trimming machine, a supporting standard adapted to support the garment to be trimmed, a carriage, a cutting disc rotatably mounted on said carriage, a motor for rotating said disc, means for movably supporting said carriage generally radially of said column, resilient means, for normally retaining said carriage spaced from said column a predetermined distance, a foot lever, means operatively connected to said lever and carriage for 'moving said cutting disc into contact with the garment to be trimmed, and a motor switch adapted to be operated by movement of said lever after said cutting disc has been brought into contact ment to be trimmed.

28. In a garment trimming machine, a base,

with the gara column supported on said base, a garment form supported on said column, a drum member having a circular periphery supported on saidiacolbars and its other end connected to said swivel resilient means for retaining the cutting peripheries of said cutting elements in snug cutting relationship irrespective of wear of said cutting elements or inaccuracies of alignment.

25. In a garment trimming machine, a garment supporting column, a normally stationary shearing disc supported on said column, a second shearing disc cooperating with said normally stationary shearing disc, a shaft fixed to said second shearing disc, a carriage rotatably supporting said shaft, means for rotating said shaft, 8, foot lever, mechanism operatively connected to said lever for lifting said shaft to place said second shearing disc in shearing engagement with said stationary shearing disc, and resilient means for retaining the shearing peripheries of said shearing discs in snug shearing relationship irrespective of wear of said shearing discs or inaccuracies umn around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a generally circular cutting member positioned adjacent the lower periphery of said drum member, a circular member cooperating with said cutting member between which the lower portion of the garment may pass to be cut by the cooperative action of said cutting member and said circular member, a vertically extending shaft fixed to one of said members to support the same, a, motor for driving said shaft, and a moto'r switch for controlling the operation of said motor.

29. In a garment trimming machine, a base; a, column supportedon said base, a garment form adjustably supported on said column, a drum shaped member having a circular periphery supported on said column .around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, means for adjustably retaining'said garment. form in the desired vertically adiusted position with respect to said drum member, a generally circular cutting member positioned adjacent the lower periphery of said drum member, a circular member cooperating with said cutting member between which the lower portion of the garment may pass to be cut by the cooperative action of said cutting member and said circular member, a vertically extending shaft fixed to one of said members to support the same, a motor for driving said shaft, and a motor switch for controlling the operation of said motor.

30. In a garment trimming machine, a base, a supporting standard supported on said base, a garment form, means for supporting said garment form in vertically adjusted position on said standard, a drum shaped member presenting a generally tubular periphery supported on said column in vertically fixed position below said ting members for moving said cutting member into contact with the garment to be trimmed, and a motor switch operated by the movement of said lever for controlling the operation of said motor. I

31. In a garment trimming machine, a base, a supporting column supported on said base, a garment form, means for supporting said garment form in vertically adjusted. position on said column, a drum shaped member presenting a generally tubular periphery supported on said column below said garment form,.a pair of cooperating circular cutting members having their cooperating cutting edges positioned adjacent the lower edge of said drum member for cutting the garment material extending below the lower periphery of said drum, mechanism operatively connected to one of said cutting members for moving the cutting member into cooperative cutting relationship with the other cutting member, resilient means for retaining the cutting peripheries of said cutting members in snug cutting relationship irrespective of wear of said cutting members or inaccuracies of alignment, a driving motor, and mechanism operatively connected to said driving motor for causing relative rotation between the peripheries of said cooperating cutting members.

32. In a garment trimming machine, a base, a column flxed to said base, a garment form, means for supporting saidgarment form on said column, a drum shaped member supported on said column, a rotatably mounted horizontally movable cutting member and a normally non-rotatable cutting member having their cooperating cutting peripheries positioned adjacent the periphery of said drum member for cutting the garment material extending around said drum member, a driving motor, mechanism operatively connected to said driving motor for rotating said rotatable cutting member, a pivotally mounted foot lever operatively connected to said horizontally mounted cutting member adapted to be manually manipulated to move the cutting periphery of said movable cutting member into cooperative cutting relationship with the cutting periphery of said non-rotatable cutting member, and a switch for controlling the operation of said motor adapted to be operated by manipulation of said lever.

33. In a garment trimming machine, a base, a column supported on said base, a garment form, means for adjustably supporting said garment form on said column, a drum shaped member having a circular periphery supported on said column, a pair of cooperating cutting members having their cooperating cutting peripheries positioned adjacent the lower periphery of said drum member, a driving motor supported on said base, mechanism operatively connected to said driving motor for causing relative rotation between the peripheries of said cooperating cutting members, a manually operated lever, mechanism connected to said lever for moving one of said cutting members horizontally, and a motor switch operatively connected to said lever for controlling the operation of said motor by the manipulation of said lever.

34. A garment trimming machine having a garment support and a trimming member mounted for relative rotation about the axis of the support comprising a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a drum surface supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a pair of horizontally spaced belt supporting pulleys, a pair of cooperating discs, at least one of adjacent the lower edge or said drum surface and between said spaced pulleys, a continuous smoothing belt trained around said spaced pulleys adapted to press the garment material against said drum surface adjacent the'cooperatingcutting edges of said shearing discs, means for rotating one or said shearing discs relative to the periphery oi the other shearing disc, and

means for driving said smoothing belt so as to retain the lower portion 0! the garment in fixed position against said drum surface during the shearing operation.

35. A garment trimming machine having a garment support and a trimming member mounted for relative rotation about the axis of the support comprising a supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a member having a generally cylindrical surface supported by said standard and aroundwhich the lower portion of the garment'may be draped, a rotary cutter for trimming the lower portion or the garment, a horizontally disposed retaimng belt having one run thereof positioned to firmly hold the garment against said cylindrical surface adjacent said rotary cutter, and power means for rotating said cutter and driving said retaining belt.

I 36. In a garment trimming machine, means for naturally supporting a garment to be trimmed, a rotary cutter for trimming the garment supported by said supporting means, means for smoothing the garment to facilitate the operation of said cutter including retaining belts adjacent the cutting line of said cutter and adapted to hold the garment to be trimmed against said supporting means, pulleys mounted in rear and in front of said cutter and around which said retaining belts pass, andmeans for driving said cutter and said belts.

37. In a garment trimming machine, means for naturally supporting a garment to be trimmed, a rotary cutter mounted on a carriage for trimming the garment mounted on said supporting means, means for smoothing the garment to be trimmed r while supported by said supporting means including main retaining belts adapted to firmly hold said garment against said supporting means adjacent said cutting line, a front retaining belt adapted to engage said garment above the cutting line, pulleys mounted on said carriage and upon which said belts are arranged, and means for drivin said cutter and said belts.

38. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support, a rotatable cutting member, means including a driven belt adapted to maintain the garment material in cutting position adjacent said cutting member, an operating motor, means for transmitting rotation from the motor to the cutting member, and additional means operated by one of the motor driven parts for actuating said belt.

39. In a garment trimming machine, a arment support, a rotatable cutting member, means for maintaining the garment material in cutting position adjacent said cutting member including an endless flexible driven belt, and an operating motor for driving the cutting member and said belt.

40. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support, a rotatable cutting member, a drum carried by said support around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped,.an endless which has a circular cutting periphery positioned .7 in cutting position adjacent said cuttin m mher, and motor driven operating means for said cutting member and belt.

41. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support, a drum mounted below the support, a rotatable cutting member to which the lower edge portion of the garment is directed, and an endless driven belt having one run thereof adjacent to and coacting with the drum to maintain the garment material in cutting position adjacent said cutting member.

42. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support, a drum below said support and connected therewith, a rotatable cutting member, an operating motor therefor, and belt means operatively driven by one of the motor driven parts and arranged to press the garment material against the wall of said drum adjacent said cutting member.

43. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support, a drum below said support and connected therewith about a common axis, a rotatable cutting member, an operating motor, means operatively driven by one of the motor driven parts for rotating said cutting member, and belt means cooperating with said drum and having driving connection with said motor for compressing the garment material adjacent said cutting member.

44. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support, a rotatable cutting member, an operating motor, and driving connections between said motor and the cutting member, a drum around which the lower portion of the garment suspended from said support may drape, a driven belt movable relative to the drum and having a run thereof positioned to coact with said drum to maintain the garment material in cutting position adjacent said cutting member, and means operatively connecting said belt with one of the motor driven parts.

45. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support, a rotatable cutting member, an operating motor, driving connections between said motor and cutting member, means to maintain the garment material in cutting position adjacent said cutting member including a'drum connected to the garment support, a pair of vertically spaced apart endless belts each having a run thereof positioned to coact' with said drum wall, and means operatively connecting said belts with one of the motor driven parts;

46. In a garment trimming machine, a rotatable cutting member,, a,"g arment supporting form, a drum for directing the-garment material to the'cutting member, and an endless flexible belt in tangential relation to the drum wall and coacting therewith to compress the garment material adjacent said cutting member.

cutting member, and means for operating the cutting member and belt from a. common source of power;

49. In a garment trimming machine, a cutting member, a garment supporting form and a drum mounted in vertical spaced relation, said drum directing the garment material to the cutting member, and a pair of vertically spaced apart endless flexible belts coacting with the drum wall to compress the garment material adjacent said cutting member.

50. In a garment trimming machine, a rotatable cutting member, a garment supporting form, a drum for directing the garment material to the cutting member, a pair of vertically spaced apart' endless flexible belts coacting with the drum wall to compress the garment material adjacent said cutting member, an operating motor, and transmission means connected to said motor for driving said belts and cutting member,

51. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support and feed drum mounted about a common axis, a rotatable cutting member, an endless belt coacting with the wall of said drum to compress the garment material adjacent said cutting member, operating means for said belt, and means for mounting said belt for bodily movement relative to the drum to dispose said belt in operative or inoperative relation to the drum wall.

52. In a garment trimming machine, a garment support and a guide drum mounted about a common axis, a rotatable cutting member, an endless flexible belt coacting with the wall of said drum to compress the garment material therebetween adjacent said cutting member, a single operating motor for driving the cutting member and the belt, and means for mounting the cutting member and belt for unitary bodily movement to dispose said cutting member and belt in operative or inoperative relation to the drum wall.

-53. A garment trimming apparatus compris- 47. Ina'lgarment trimming machine, a cutting member, a garment supporting form and a drum vertically spaced apart relative to each other, said drum being-operative to direct the garment material to the cutting member, an endless nexible belt in tangential relation to the drum wall and coacting therewith to compress the garment material adjacent said cutting member, and means for verticallyadjusting the garment form relative to said drum.

48. In a garment trimming machine, a cutting member, a vertical shaft, a garment supporting form and a drum mounted on said shaft. said drum directing the garment material to the cutting member, an endless belt in tangential relation tov the drum wall and coacting therewith to compress the garment material adjacent said ing in combination, a support for a garment, a rotatable cutting member connected to said support for cutting the bottom edge of said garment, ,power transmission means to rotate said cutting member to cut the bottom edge of the garment, and a driven belt for compressing the fabric of said garment adjacent said cutting member.

54. In a garment trimming machine, the combination of means to support a garment, cutting means to trim the nether edge of said garment, motor operated means to actuate said cutting means, manually'operable means to bodily move said cuttingmeans to and from a definite cutting position with respect to said garment supporting means, means to control the operation of said motor operated means, and means garment may be draped, a pair of horizontally spaced belt supporting pulleys, cooperating garment cutting elements positioned adjacent the lower edge of saiddrum surface and between.

said spaced pulleys,.a continuous smoothing belt trained around saidspaced pulleys adapted to press the garment material against said drum surface adjacent the cooperating cutting edges 19 of said cutting elements, means for rotating one of said cutting elements, and means for driving said smoothing belt so as to retain the lower portion of the garment in position against said drum surface during the cutting operation.

56. In a garment trimming machine, a. supporting standard adapted to support a garment form, a member having a generally cylindrical surface supported by said standard and around which the lower portion of the garment may be draped, a cutter for trimming the lower portion of the garment, a retaining belt having one run thereof positioned to firmly hold the garment against said cylindrical surface adjacent said cutter, and power means for driving said cutter and said retaining belt.

HENRY LEHDE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

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