US20200093713A1 - Method for improving the sensorial properties of oil-in-water emulsions - Google Patents

Method for improving the sensorial properties of oil-in-water emulsions Download PDF

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Publication number
US20200093713A1
US20200093713A1 US16/470,395 US201716470395A US2020093713A1 US 20200093713 A1 US20200093713 A1 US 20200093713A1 US 201716470395 A US201716470395 A US 201716470395A US 2020093713 A1 US2020093713 A1 US 2020093713A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
equal
oil
less
emulsion
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Inventor
Sophie Cambos
Florence Clemenceau
Emmanuelle Merat
Cécile TAILLEBOIS
Sabrina Mizael
Corinne Stoltz
Nelly Michel
Benjamin Swoboda
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Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
TotalEnergies Onetech SAS
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Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Total Marketing Services SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/415—Aminophenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a novel method for improving the sensory and esthetic properties of an oil-in-water type emulsion on human skin.
  • the objective of a large number of cosmetic formulations for topical application is to protect the skin, the mucous membranes and the scalp against external and environmental attacks and stresses.
  • cosmetic formulations for topical application are looking for formulations to be applied to the skin that will protect them against the harmful and unesthetic effects of prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun, or that will protect against harmful modifications to the integrity of their skin following increasingly frequent exposure to the polluting agents present in atmospheres, and more particularly urban atmospheres.
  • cosmetic and dermocosmetic compositions which give them both feelings of well-being during and after application to the skin, and also an identification with an external appearance of the cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulation, which refers back to a criterion of quality.
  • consumers are in search of cosmetic or dermocosmetic compositions, the high consistency of which, known as “richness”, is often associated with a feeling of skin comfort during and after application to the skin.
  • This feeling of comfort is reinforced when the step of spreading the cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition is easy, that is to say when its duration is reduced or more specifically is not prolonged as a consequence of resistance on the skin during said spreading and/or when the consumer must apply a high shear force on the skin, also resulting in a higher speed application on spreading and/or in the exerting of a force of higher intensity during said spreading phase.
  • cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulations which do not detrimentally modify the external appearance of the skin, for instance by leaving an oily residue in the form of a slight film and, on the contrary, a cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulation which gives the skin a matt appearance will be preferred and sought.
  • the external appearance of the cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulation may constitute a criterion of choice and of proven attraction for its use by the consumer.
  • a cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulation having a heterogeneous external appearance, showing a slight layer of yellowish oil at the surface after storage will not be considered to be attractive, whereas, on the contrary, a cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulation that is homogeneous after prolonged storage and that has a shiny appearance will be considered to be attractive since it reflects an external image of quality.
  • protection and care formulations may be in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion in order to be able to provide a more pleasant sensation by bringing the skin into contact with an aqueous phase, but the surfactant or polymeric emulsifiers required to maintain the stability of said oil-in-water emulsion may also contribute to discomfort during the application by conferring a sensation of heaviness on the emulsion during and after its application to the skin.
  • One alternative may consist of the development of a water-in-oil type emulsion, which is stabilized by thickening of the oily phase using in particular waxes and linear fatty alcohols, the hydrocarbon-based chain of which comprises from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Silicone elastomers are also used to stabilize such a water-in-oil type emulsion, but said silicone elastomers also involve a deterioration of the sensory properties of the skin thus treated by the application of said emulsion.
  • the use of these silicone elastomers as stabilizers of water-in-oil antisun emulsions modifies, in some cases, the solubility of the sunscreens used, which can then precipitate from the bottle during storage.
  • the formulator In order to avoid being confronted with the drawbacks mentioned above both for water-in-oil type emulsions and for oil-in-water type emulsions, the formulator must develop an emulsion which has improved spreading properties, therefore making it possible for the consumer to apply the emulsion to the skin without being confronted with friction forces contrary to the movement set up by the applicator and therefore slowing down said application and/or requiring a higher spreading speed.
  • EP 2 644 188 A1 teaches oil-in-water type emulsions having improved properties of spreading on the skin, comprising a combination of at least one crosslinked and non-emulsifying silicone resin, at least one polyvinyl alcohol, a thickener of polyacrylamide type, an oil chosen from the elements of the group consisting of triglyceride-type plant oils, waxes, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, silicone oils and perfluoro oils.
  • WO 2011/065771 discloses and teaches the spreading and the softness provided during the application of a water-in-oil-in-water type emulsion, prepared from a water-in-oil type emulsion comprising a silicone-based emulsifier, a di-polyhydroxalkyl type emulsifier, a mineral thickener of hectorite type, and a polar oil.
  • silicone derivatives such as the chemical substances and compositions of the polysiloxane family are known to give oil-in-water emulsions improved sensory properties, in particular in terms of ease of spreading and of limitation of lipid residues on the skin after application.
  • the environmental characteristics associated with these ingredients have required the search for substitutes which provide similar sensory properties while at the same time having environmental characteristics in accordance with the regulations in force and to come, and in accordance with consumer demands on the subject.
  • alkane compositions comprising large amounts of cycloalkanes for preparing oil-in-water cosmetic emulsions; said alkane mixtures having biodegradability properties that are satisfactory and sensory properties that are satisfactory but judged to have room for improvement.
  • cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulations which have improved sensory properties, in particular which provide a sensation of richness and which are easy to spread on the skin, and which have improved and/or attractive esthetic characteristics, for instance which are characterized by an improved shiny appearance and which give the skin a mattt and non-shiny appearance.
  • the inventors have thus sought to develop a new solution for improving the sensory and esthetic properties of an oil-in-water type emulsion for topical use, not necessarily using silicone derivatives, but using chemical compositions of plant and/or biodegradable origins.
  • a subject of the invention is a method for improving the sensory and/or esthetic properties of an oil-in-water type emulsion (E 0 ), said sensory properties being the spreading properties and the consistency and richness properties of said topical emulsion (E 0 ), characterized in that an effective amount of a mixture (M 1 ) of cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched saturated hydrocarbons, among which at least 95% by weight comprise 15 to 19 carbon atoms, is incorporated into said oil-in-water type emulsion (E 0 ).
  • said oil-in-water type emulsion (E 0 ) is free of shea butter.
  • the term “sensory properties” of an oil-in-water (E 0 ) denotes the sensations felt and noted by a user who applies to the skin the oil-in-water type emulsion (E) resulting from said method above and which correspond to physicochemical and/or rheological characteristics of said emulsion (E).
  • the term “esthetic properties” denotes visual characteristics associated with the oil-in-water emulsion for use (E) as such and also associated with the condition of the skin after application of said oil-in-water emulsion for topical use (E).
  • the term “effective amount” denotes, in the definition of the method as defined above, an amount such that the oil-in-water type emulsion for topical use (E) resulting from said method above: shows a mean value of at least three measurements of the variation in the coefficient of friction, as a function of the velocity of application of between 1 radian.s ⁇ 1 and 4 radian.s ⁇ 1 , of less than or equal to 10% of the value initially measured for a velocity of application to the skin equal to 1 radian.s ⁇ 1 ; said coefficients of friction being recorded during each of the measurements by means of a DHR2 rheometer (TA Instruments) equipped with a support of Peltier plate type on which is placed a plexiglass surface on which the emulsion to be tested is deposited.
  • TA Instruments T Instruments
  • oil-in-water type emulsion denotes the emulsions comprising, for 100% of their weight:
  • oil present in the fatty phase (G 0 ) of the oil-in-water type emulsion (E 0 ) as defined above denotes chemical substances or mixtures of chemical substances that are water-insoluble and that are in liquid form at a temperature of 25° C.
  • the term “wax” present in the fatty phase (G 0 ) of the oil-in-water type emulsion (E 0 ) as defined above denotes the chemical substances or the mixtures of chemical substances that are water-insoluble and that are in solid form at a temperature of 45° C.
  • water-in-oil type surfactant present in the fatty phase (G 0 ) of the oil-in-water type topical emulsion (E 0 ) as defined above denotes the chemical substance of the mixture of chemical substances that makes it possible to stabilize the droplets of said fatty phase (G 0 ) in dispersion in the continuous phase (A 0 ).
  • oil-in-water type surfactant present in the fatty phase)(G 0 ) of the oil-in-water type emulsion (E 0 ) as defined above mention may be made for example of:
  • aqueous phase (A 0 ) of the oil-in-water type emulsion means, according to the Council of the European Economic Community Directive no. 76/768/EEC of Jul. 27, 1976, amended by Directive no. 93/35/EEC of Jun. 14, 1993, any substance or preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, body hair and head hair system, nails, lips and genitals) or with the teeth and mucous membranes of the mouth, for the purpose, exclusively and mainly, of cleansing them, fragrancing them, modifying the appearance thereof and/or correcting body odors thereof and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.
  • a cosmetically acceptable medium of these compositions which are a subject of the invention may conventionally contain water, one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvents may more particularly be chosen from polyhydric alcohols, for instance glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, or water-soluble alcohols.
  • the term “effective amount of said mixture (M 1 )” denotes a weight proportion of from 1% to 25% of the oil-in-water emulsion, most particularly from 5% to 20%.
  • linear alkanes present in the mixture (M 1 ) used in the method which is a subject of the present invention, and comprising from fifteen to nineteen carbon atoms, denotes more particularly the elements chosen from the group consisting of pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadacane, octadecane and nonadecane.
  • branched alkanes present in the mixture (M 1 ) used in the method which is a subject of the present invention, and comprising from fifteen to nineteen carbon atoms, denotes more particularly the elements chosen from the group consisting of 2-methyltetradecane (or isopentadecane), 2-methylpentadecane (or isohexadecane), 2-methylhexadecane (or isoheptadecane), 2-methylheptadecane (or isooctadecane) and 2-methyloctadecane (or isononadecane).
  • 2-methyltetradecane or isopentadecane
  • 2-methylpentadecane or isohexadecane
  • 2-methylhexadecane or isoheptadecane
  • 2-methylheptadecane or isooctadecane
  • 2-methyloctadecane or isononadecane
  • cycloalkanes present in the mixture (M 1 ) used in the method which is a subject of the present invention, and comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, denotes more particularly saturated hydrocarbons comprising at least one saturated cyclic hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals.
  • a subject of the invention is a method as defined above, characterized in that said mixture (M 1 ) comprises, for 100% of its weight:
  • the subject of the invention is a method as defined above, wherein (M 1 ) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons sold under the brand name EmogreenTML15, comprising, for 100% of its weight:
  • cycloalkanes comprising from fifteen to ninteen carbon atoms.
  • a subject of the invention is a method as defined above, characterized in that said mixture (M 1 ) comprises, for 100% of its weight:
  • the subject of the invention is a method as defined above, wherein (M 1 ) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons sold under the brand name EmosmartTML19, comprising, for 100% of its weight:
  • cycloalkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • the term “properties of spreading on the skin” denotes the capacity for the oil-in-water emulsion that is the subject of the present invention to be spread on the surface of the skin in a thin layer and so as to cover a wide surface area of the skin while at the same time remaining sufficiently concentrated to accomplish its assigned mission by virtue of its composition, for instance the protection of the skin against the consequences of prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation from sun if the oil-in-water emulsion contains organic and/or inorganic sunscreens.
  • the properties of spreading on the skin of an oil-in-of water type emulsion namely the ease or difficulty in spreading said emulsion on human skin, can be evaluated by implementing various methods, for instance methods which make it possible to measure the yield point values and/or to measure the shear-thinning index, and/or to measure the coefficient of friction, and/or to measure the variation in the coefficient of friction as a function of the rapidity of said spreading.
  • the term “richness” of said emulsion for topical use (E 0 ) denotes the sensation provided by the application to the skin of an emulsion for topical use (E 0 ), as defined above, which is characterized by a non-fluid or non-runny compact consistency if subjected solely to the force of gravity, and a presence of the emulsion during spreading on the skin that is significantly greater in comparison with the spreading of water; the term “presence” is thus understood by those skilled in the art to be a sensory perception devoid of an aqueous nature.
  • a subject of the invention is the method as defined above, for which the esthetic property is the shininess of the oil-in-water type emulsion for topical use (E 0 ) resulting from said method above.
  • the term “shininess” denotes the capacity of the emulsion to reflect incident rays originating from a source of light of the visible spectrum with a given reflection yield.
  • a subject of the invention is the method as defined above, for which the esthetic property is the mattt appearance of the skin noted after the application to the skin of an oil-in-water type emulsion for topical use (E 0 ) resulting from said method above.
  • the term “matt aspect of the skin” denotes the capacity of the skin to absorb a given proportion of incident rays originating from a source of light of the visible spectrum, said capacity being linked to the thickness and the nature of the residual film of emulsion remaining on the skin after application thereof.
  • a subject of the invention is also an oil-in-water type emulsion (E) comprising, for 100% of its weight:
  • said oil-in-water type emulsion (E) is free of shea butter.
  • fatty phase (G) denotes a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances that is insoluble in water and/or in mixtures of water and polar solvents. Such a “fatty phase” may comprise oils and/or waxes. Among the constituent elements of the fatty phase, mention may be made of:
  • water-in-oil type surfactant present in the fatty phase (G) of the oil-in-water type emulsion (E) as defined above denotes a chemical substance or the mixture of chemical substances that makes it possible to stabilize the droplets of the fatty phase (G) in dispersion in the continuous phase (A). Mention may for example be made of:
  • a cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (A) included in the oil-in-water emulsion (E) as defined above may conventionally contain one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvents may more particularly be chosen from polyhydric alcohols, for instance glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, glycerol oligomers, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol; alkoxylated polyhydric alcohols; glycols, for instance butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or 1,2-octanediol, pentylene glycol or 1,2-pentanediol, monopropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butyldiglycol, polyethylene glycols, the molecular weight
  • agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun denotes in particular, in the definition of the oil-in-water type emulsion (E) which is a subject of the present patent application, pigments, organic sunscreens and inorganic sunscreens.
  • pigments used as an agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun there are for example titanium dioxide, brown iron oxides, yellow iron oxides, black iron oxides or red iron oxides, or else white or colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica.
  • organic sunscreens used as an agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun there are for example:
  • inorganic sunscreens used as an agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun there are for example: titanium oxides, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxides, chromium oxides.
  • These mineral screens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have undergone surface treatments and may be optionally provided in the form of aqueous or oily predispersions.
  • a subject of the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion for topical use (E) as defined above, wherein the agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of titanium dioxide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, Ie 2,4-bis ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl ⁇ -6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy carbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine and 2-ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.
  • the agent for protecting against ultraviolet radiation from the sun is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of titanium dioxide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone,
  • a subject of the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion (E) as defined above, characterized in that said mixture (M 1 ) comprises, for 100% of its weight:
  • said mixture (M 1 ) is more particularly a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons sold under the brand name EmogreenTML15, comprising, for 100% of its weight:
  • cycloalkanes comprising from fifteen to ninteen carbon atoms.
  • oil-in-water type emulsion (E) as defined above is characterized in that said mixture (M 1 ) comprises, for 100% of its weight:
  • the mixture (M 1 ) is more particularly a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons sold under the brand name EmosmartTML19, comprising, for 100% of its weight:
  • cycloalkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • the emulsion (E) as defined above may comprise one or more adjuvants such as:
  • R′ 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R′ 4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to 50
  • the linear or branched or crosslinked polymers of polyelectrolyte type that can be combined with the oil-in-water emulsion that is a subject of the present invention may be in the form of a solution, of an aqueous suspension, of a water-in-oil emulsion, of an oil-in-water emulsion or of a powder, for example the products sold under the names SimulgelTM EG, SimulgelTMEPG, SepigelTM 305, SimulgelTM 600, SimulgelTM NS, SimulgelTM INS 100, SimulgelTM FL, SimulgelTM A, SimulgelTM SMS 88, SepinovTMEMT 10, SepiplusTM400, SepiplusTM265, SepiplusTMS, Sepi
  • y represents a decimal number between 1 and 5
  • S represents the residue of a reducing sugar
  • R 2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, or a mixture of compounds of formula (II), for example caprylyl capryl glucosides, sold in particular under the brand name OramixTMCG 110, decylglucoside, sold in particular under the brand name OramixTMNS 10;
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of an oil-water-type emulsion for topical use (E) as defined above, for protecting human skin against the unesthetic effects of exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun, and more particularly against redness.
  • E oil-water-type emulsion for topical use
  • a subject of the invention is also an oil-in-water type emulsion (E) comprising, for 100% of its weight:
  • said oil-in-water type emulsion (E) is free of shea butter.
  • Emulsion Fatty phase Sepinov TMEMT10 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% Isohexadecane 15% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% DC 345 (5) 0% 15% 0% 0% 0% 0% DC 245 (6) 0% 0% 15% 0% 0% Emosmart TML15 (7) 0% 0% 0% 15% 0% Emosmart TMV21 (8) 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 15% Aqueous phase Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Oramix TMNS10 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% (5) (DC 345): Emollient used in cosmetics for the sensory properties that it provides and more particularly the ease of spreading that it confers on the emulsion containing it (INCI name: cyclopentasiloxane & cyclohexasiloxane); (6) (DC 245): Emollient used in cosmetic
  • the spreading properties of an oil-in-water emulsion are evaluated by the variation in a mean of measurements of the value of the coefficient of friction of said emulsion, carried out using a rheometer of type DHR2 (from the company Texas Instruments), for various spreading speeds.
  • the measurements are carried out by means of a DHR2 rheometer (TA Instruments) equipped with the “Tribo Ring on Plate” accessory on which is placed a surface of plexiglass onto which the emulsion to be tested is deposited.
  • An amount of the emulsion to be tested is deposited, using a calibrated spreader, such that it forms a thickness of 90 micrometers on the plate.
  • the maximum normal force of friction to which the Peltier plate is subjected during the rotation of the geometry is measured.
  • the negative variation of the mean of the coefficients of friction, between a velocity of 1 radian.s ⁇ 1 and a velocity of 4 radian.s ⁇ 1 shows an additional technical benefit, namely the obtaining of a lower mean value of the coefficient of friction for a low velocity, that is to say a possibility of spreading the emulsion according to the invention on the skin more easily.
  • the procedure carried out comprises 5 steps which are the following:
  • This procedure is carried out at a temperature of 20° C.
  • each panellist indicates whether said emulsion tested provides an improved sensation compared with the reference emulsion. All of the evaluations are collected and the data are statistically processed so as to determine the significant nature of any difference, improvement or degradation, between the sensation perceived for the emulsion tested and the reference emulsion.
  • Emulsion (F 4 ) Reference Emulsion: Emulsion (F 4 )
  • the emulsions according to the invention (E 1 ) and (E 3 ), and also the comparative emulsions (F 2 ) and (F 5 ) are evaluated according to the protocol defined above, and the results obtained are recorded in table 4 below.
  • the improvement in the sensation of richness compared with (F 4 ) is denoted “>(F 4 )” and the deterioration of the sensation of richness compared with (F 4 ) is denoted “ ⁇ (F 4 )” at each moment of the spreading process.
  • Emulsion (F 4 ) Reference Emulsion: Emulsion (F 4 )
  • the emulsions according to the invention (E 1 ) and (E 3 ), and also the comparative emulsions (F 2 ) and (F 5 ) are evaluated according to the protocol defined above, and the results obtained are recorded in table 5 below.
  • the increase in the shininess of the skin compared with (F 4 ) is denoted “>(F 4 )” and its decrease is denoted “ ⁇ (F 4 )”.
  • the emulsions according to the invention (E 1 ) and (E 3 ), and also the comparative emulsions (F 2 ) and (F 5 ) are evaluated according to the protocol defined above, and the results obtained are recorded in table 5 below.
  • the increase in the shininess of the emulsion compared with (F 4 ) is denoted “>(F 4 )” and its decrease is denoted “ ⁇ (F 4 )”.
  • High UV protection antisun fluid Ingredients % (by weight) Montanov TM 82 2.00% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 17.00% Octocrylene 6.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00% Bis-Ethylhexylphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine 3.00% Emogreen TML19 3.00% Tocopherol 0.05% Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (SEPIMAX TM ZEN) 0.25% Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00% Titanium Dioxide And Isohexadecane And 5.40% Triethylhexanoin And Aluminum Stearate And Alumina And Polyhydroxystearic Acid Water qs 100% Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol 10.00% Citric Acid qs pH 5.5 Aquaxyl TM 3.00% Phenoxyethanol Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00% Fragrance 0.20%
  • High UV protection antisun fluid Ingredients % (by weight) Montanov TM 82 2.00% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 17.00% Octocrylene 6.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00% 2-Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene 3.00% dioxoimidazolidine propionate Emogreen TML15 3.00% Tocopherol 0.05% Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (SEPIMAX TM ZEN) 0.25% Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00% Titanium Dioxide And Isohexadecane And 5.40% Triethylhexanoin And Aluminum Stearate And Alumina And Polyhydroxystearic Acid Water qs 100% Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol 10.00% Citric Acid qs pH 5.5 Aquaxyl TM 3.00% Phenoxyethanol Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00% Frag
  • SEPIMAXTM Zen Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a thickening and stabilizing anionic polymer sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • EasynovTM (Octyldodecanol & Octydodecyl Xyloside & PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate) is a water-in-oil type emulsifier sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • SolagumTM AX (Acacia Senegal Gum and Xanthan Gum) is a thickening and stabilizing polymer of natural origin, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • MontanovTM 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol & Cocoglucoside) is an oil-in-water type emulsifier sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • AquaxylTM (Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol) is a moisturizing active agent sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • SepicideTM HB (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben) is a preserving composition sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Citrus Waterfall fragrance concentrate is sold by the company Mane.
  • MontanovTM 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside) is an oil-in-water type emulsifier sold by the company SEPPIC.

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FR1662650A FR3060322B1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2016-12-16 Procede pour ameliorer des proprietes sensorielles d'emulsions huile-dans-eau
FR1662650 2016-12-16
PCT/FR2017/053508 WO2018109354A1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2017-12-12 Procédé pour améliorer des propriétés sensorielles d'émulsions huile-dans-eau

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FR3094212B1 (fr) 2019-03-28 2021-04-09 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Compositions à base d’alcanes et d’ester stables au stockage en température, leur utilisation comme agents émollients et émulsions les comprenant
ES2951597T3 (es) * 2019-09-19 2023-10-23 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Composiciones perfumantes, estables y que tienen buenas propiedades de pulverización
WO2022122840A1 (en) 2020-12-09 2022-06-16 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Increased solubilization of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
CN116456962A (zh) 2020-12-09 2023-07-18 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 降低植物油的酸败度
CN116528821A (zh) 2020-12-09 2023-08-01 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 包含奥克立林的化妆品组合物的粘性的降低
CN116528826A (zh) 2020-12-09 2023-08-01 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 贝莫三嗪醇的增大增溶
JP2023553805A (ja) 2020-12-09 2023-12-26 ディーエスエム アイピー アセッツ ビー．ブイ． イスコトリジノールの向上した可溶性
CN116528827A (zh) 2020-12-09 2023-08-01 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 乙基己基三嗪酮的增大增溶
JP2023553826A (ja) 2020-12-09 2023-12-26 ディーエスエム アイピー アセッツ ビー．ブイ． ビスオクトリゾールを含む化粧品組成物のべたつきの低減
WO2023104848A1 (en) 2021-12-08 2023-06-15 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Improve the water resistance of cosmetic compositions comprising ensulizole
WO2023194289A1 (en) 2022-04-04 2023-10-12 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Improve the water resistance of cosmetic compositions comprising pigments
WO2023194290A1 (en) 2022-04-04 2023-10-12 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Improvement of the water resistance of cosmetic compositions comprising uv filters
WO2024042025A1 (en) 2022-08-22 2024-02-29 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Hair dyes leading to an increase of the colour resistance of dyed hair
WO2024042024A1 (en) 2022-08-22 2024-02-29 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Hair care compositions leading to an increase of the colour resistance of dyed hair

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BR112019012282B1 (pt) 2023-01-31
US20220071861A1 (en) 2022-03-10
AU2017374588C1 (en) 2024-05-02
FR3060322B1 (fr) 2020-01-03
KR102608708B1 (ko) 2023-12-04
KR20190113770A (ko) 2019-10-08
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WO2018109354A1 (fr) 2018-06-21
EP3554462A1 (fr) 2019-10-23

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