Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
  • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
  • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

• the invention relates to a cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips and preferably the skin, of a cosmetic composition comprising siloxane resins and a pulverulent dyestuff that has been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent.
• a cosmetic composition comprising siloxane resins and a pulverulent dyestuff that has been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent.
• the invention relates in particular to compositions for caring for or making up said keratin materials.
• keratin materials is intended to denote the skin of the body and the mucous membranes, for example the face or the lips.
• polymers which provide staying power over the course of the day are used. These polymers are of very different chemical nature and are carried either in a fatty phase or in an aqueous phase (for example, silicone resins, polyacrylates, latexes, etc.).
• the objective of the present invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic method for caring for and in particular for making up keratin materials, which makes it possible to obtain cosmetic properties that are satisfactory immediately and over time, in particular which makes it possible to obtain staying power over time of the initial color, of the mattness and/or of the uniformity of the makeup.
• a siloxane resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units:
• a propyl silsesquioxane resin comprising at least 80 mol % of (R′′SiO 3/2 ) units (hereinafter “T” units) in which R′′ independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the condition that at least 80 mol % of the R′′ groups are propyl groups;
• a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising the application, to said keratin materials, of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
• a siloxane resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units:
• a film-forming propyl silsesquioxane resin comprising at least 80 mol % of (R′′SiO 312 ) units (hereinafter “T” units) in which R′′ independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the condition that at least 40 mol % of the R′′ groups are propyl groups,
• the method according to the invention makes it possible to advantageously obtain deposits having good staying power of the color throughout the day, and/or good uniformity of the makeup.
• composition according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of powders (loose or compact), of an anhydrous dispersion, of a water/oil or water/wax, oil/water, multiple or wax/water emulsion, or else in the form of a gel.
• composition according to the invention is in particular intended for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips, the nails, in particular the skin.
• the siloxane resin a subsequently referred to as “MQ resin”, preferably comprises residual silanol groups (—SiOH).
• the amount of —OH groups is preferably between 2% and 10% by weight of the MQ resin, preferably between 2% and 5% by weight of the MQ resin.
• the R′ groups of the MQ resin are methyl groups.
• the resin b hereinafter referred to as “propyl T resin”, preferably comprises residual silanol groups (—SiOH) and/or alkoxy groups.
• the amount of —OH groups is preferably between 2% and 10% by weight of the propyl T resin, and/or the amount of alkoxy groups is preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight of the propyl T resin.
• the amount of —OH groups is between 6% and 8% by weight of the propyl T resin, and/or the amount of alkoxy groups is less than or equal to 10% by weight of the propyl T resin.
• the propyl T resin according to the invention is such that at least 40 mol % of the R′′ groups are propyl groups, preferably at least 50 mol %, and more preferentially at least 90 mol %.
• covalent bond is intended to mean a chemical bond between at least two atoms (carbon, silicon, oxygen, etc.) in which each of the atoms bonded pools one electron from one of its outer layers in order to form a doublet of electrons linking the two atoms.
• the MQ resin according to the invention comprises at least 80 mol % of units:
• the R′ radical of the MQ resin independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group.
• the alkyl groups may in particular be chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl and octyl groups.
• the alkyl group is a methyl or propyl group.
• the aryl groups may be chosen from phenyl, naphthyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl, xenyl, methylphenyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenyl-2-methylethyl, chlorophenyl, bromophenyl and fluorophenyl groups, the aryl group being preferentially a phenyl group.
• carbinol group is intended to mean any group containing at least one hydroxyl radical bonded to a carbon (COH).
• the carbinol groups may thus contain more than one COH radical, such as, for example
• carbinol group is free of aryl groups, it contains at least 3 carbon atoms.
• the carbinol group comprises at least one aryl group, it contains at least 6 carbon atoms.
• R 1 OH groups of formula R 1 OH in which R 1 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing at least 3 carbon atoms or a divalent hydrocarbonoxy radical containing at least 3 carbon atoms.
• R 1 group examples include alkylene radicals, such as —(CH 2 ) X —, the value of x being between 3 and 10, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )—, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 —, —CH 2 CH 2 CH(CH 2 CH 3 )CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 — and —OCH(CH 3 )(CH 2 ) x —, the value of x being between 1 and 10.
• alkylene radicals such as —(CH 2 ) X —, the value of x being between 3 and 10, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )—, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 —, —CH 2 CH 2 CH(CH 2 CH 3 )CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 — and —OCH(CH 3 )(CH 2 ) x —, the value of x being between 1 and 10.
• a carbinol group comprising aryl groups having at least 6 carbon atoms
• R 2 represents an arylene radical, such as —(CH 2 ) X C 6 H 4 —, x having a value of between 0 and 10, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )(CH 2 ) x C 6 H 4 —, x having a value between 0 and 10, and —(CH 2 ) X C 6 H 4 (CH 2 ) X —, x having a value between 1 and 10.
• the carbinol groups comprising aryl groups generally contain from 6 to 14 atoms.
• the term “amino group” is intended to mean in particular groups of formula —R 3 NH 2 or —R 3 NHR 4 NH 2 , R 3 representing a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing at least two carbon atoms and R 4 representing a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing at least 2 carbon atoms.
• the R 3 group generally represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
• examples of an R 3 group mention may be made of ethylene, propylene, —CH 2 CHCH 3 —, butylene, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 —, pentamethylene, hexamethylene, 3-ethylhexamethylene, octamethylene and decamethylene groups.
• the R 4 group generally represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
• an R 4 group mention may be made of ethylene, propylene, —CH 2 CHCH 3 —, butylene, —CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 —, pentamethylene, hexamethylene, 3-ethylhexamethylene, octamethylene and decamethylene groups.
• the amino groups are generally —CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 and —CH 2 (CH 3 )CHCH 2 (H)NCH 3 , —CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , —CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , —CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 3 , —CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , —(CH 2 CH 2 NH) 3 H and —CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NHC 4 H 9 .
• MQ resins that are suitable for use as component a), and also the methods for the production thereof, are known in the prior art.
• U.S. Pat. No. 2,814,601 belonging to Currie et al., of Nov. 26, 1957, incorporated into the present document by way of reference, describes a method for the production of MQ resins by conversion of a water-soluble silicate into a silicic acid monomer or a silicic acid oligomer using an acid. Once the appropriate polymerization has been carried out, trimethylchlorosilane ends are introduced in order to obtain the MQ resin.
• Another method for preparing MQ resins is described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,857,356 belonging to Goodwin, of Oct.
• the MQ resins that are suitable as component a) in the present invention can contain D and T units, provided that at least 80 mol %, or even 90 mol %, of the total siloxane units are M and Q units.
• the MQ resins can also contain residual hydroxyl groups as is mentioned above.
• the MQ resins can also comprise additional ends, residual hydroxyl groups being, for this, reacted with suitable M groups.
• the propyl T resin b) according to the invention comprises at least 80 mol % of (R′′SiO 3/2 ) units in which R′′ independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the condition that at least 40 mol % of the R′′ groups are propyl groups.
• the propyl T resin according to the invention is such that at least 50 mol % of the R′′ groups are propyl groups, preferably at least 90 mol %.
• the propyl T resin b) is film-forming.
• film-forming resin is intended to mean a resin capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a film which is macroscopically continuous and adherent to keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and even better still a film of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that it is possible for said film to be isolated and to be handled in isolation, for example when said film is produced by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
• R′′ radical is the same as that of the R′ radical.
• R′ radical is the same as that of the R′ radical.
• the propyl T resin b) according to the invention is a silsesquioxane resin.
• Silsesquioxane resins are well known in the prior art and are generally obtained by hydrolysis of an organosilane comprising three hydrolysable groups, such as halogen or alkoxy groups, present in the molecule.
• the propyl T resin b) can thus be obtained by hydrolysis of propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane or propyltripropoxysilane, or by cohydrolysis of the abovementioned propylalkoxysilanes with various alkoxysilanes.
• alkoxysilanes mention may be made of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltriisopropoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane and phenyltrimethoxysilane.
• Propyltrichlorosilane can also be hydrolyzed alone, or in the presence of alcohol.
• the cohydrolysis can be carried out by adding methyltrichlorosilane, dimethyldichlorosilane, phenyltrichlorosilane or similar chlorosilanes and methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltriisopropoxysilane or similar methylalkoxysilanes.
• alcohols that are suitable for this purpose, mention may be made of methanol, ethanol, n-propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, methoxyethanol, ethoxyethanol or similar alcohols.
• hydrocarbon-type solvents that can be used simultaneously, mention may be made of toluene, xylene or similar aromatic hydrocarbons, hexane, heptane, isooctane or similar linear or partially branched, saturated hydrocarbons; and also cyclohexane or similar aliphatic hydrocarbons.
• the propyl T resins b) according to the invention may contain M, D and Q units, provided that at least 80 mol %, or even 90 mol %, of the total siloxane units are T units.
• the propyl T resins may also contain residual hydroxyl and/or alkoxy groups, as is mentioned above.
• composition according to the invention also comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
• physiologically acceptable medium is intended to mean a medium that is compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and the skin integuments.
• This medium may comprise at least one volatile silicone or organic solvent, this solvent preferably being compatible with the resins a) and b) and compatible with cosmetic use.
• volatile silicone solvent mention may be made of cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
• volatile linear polysiloxanes mention may be made of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.
• volatile cyclic polysiloxanes mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
• the organic solvent may also be an alcohol, for instance ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, n-propanol; a ketone, for instance acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, or methyl isobutyl ketone; an aliphatic hydrocarbon, for instance heptane, hexane, octane or isododecane, or a glycol ether, for instance propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol n-propyl ether, or ethylene glycol n-butyl ether.
• an alcohol for instance ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, n-propanol
• a ketone for instance acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, or methyl isobutyl ketone
• an aliphatic hydrocarbon for instance
• the mixture of resins a) and b) may be obtained from each of the resins in solution in a solvent.
• this resin is obtained directly in solution in xylene.
• a subject of the present invention is also a method using a composition as described above, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
• siloxane resin a) and the propyl silsesquioxane resin b) being formulated in the composition via a mixture that can be obtained according to the following method:
• This method may comprise, after or even during the mixing step, an additional step of partial or total distillation of the aromatic solvents, replacing them with a cosmetically acceptable volatile solvent.
• this method may comprise, after or even during the mixing step, an additional step of partial or total distillation of the aromatic solvents, with the mixture exiting directly in the solid state.
• the final step of the heat treatment, or even the heat treatment itself, can be carried out in a blender intended for stirring very viscous media, such as:
• the mixtures of resins 1) that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in application WO 2005/075567, the content of which is incorporated herein by way of reference, in particular those described in tables 1 and 3 of said application. It is also possible to use the mixtures of resins 1) described in application WO 2007/145765, in particular those described in examples 12 to 14 of that application, in which the weight ratio between the resins a) and b) is respectively 50/50, 60/40 and 71/29 (70/30).
• the mixture of resins 1) described in example 1-f in table 1 of the examples, in which the weight ratio between the resins a) and b) is 50/50, is used.
• the mixture of resins 1) described in example 22 of said application WO 2005/075567, in which the weight ratio between the resins a) and b) is 85/15, is used.
• the mixture of resins 1) described in example 13 of said application WO 2007/145765, in which the weight ratio between the resins a) and b) is 60/40, is used.
• the weight ratio between the resins a) and b) (i.e. a/b) is between 1/99 and 99/1, alternatively between 85/15 and 15/85.
• composition according to the invention comprises an amount of siloxane resins a) and b), by weight of active material (dry matter), ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 60% by weight, and better still from 4% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the amount of siloxane resins a) and b), by weight of active material (dry matter), ranges advantageously from 3% to 60% by weight, and better still from 6% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• active material dry matter
• the amount of siloxane resins a) and b), by weight of active material (dry matter), ranges advantageously from 3% to 30% by weight, and better still from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• These contents are especially suitable for compositions in the form of emulsions, and in particular for compositions in the form of W/O emulsions, such as liquid foundations.
• the pulverulent dyestuff that has been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent can be chosen from pigments and/or pearlescent agents.
• pigments should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium and are intended to color the composition.
• pearlescent agents should be understood to mean iridescent particles of any shape, in particular produced by certain mollusks in their shell, or else synthesized.
• the pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
• mineral pigments mention may be made of optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and Prussian blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder.
• organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
• pigments with an effect such as particles comprising an organic or mineral, natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate being optionally coated with metal substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper or bronze, or with metal oxides, for instance titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide and mixtures thereof.
• the pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with in particular Prussian blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
• Interference pigments in particular liquid-crystal or multilayer interference pigments, may also be used.
• the dyestuffs in particular the pigments treated with a hydrophobic agent, may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 20% by weight.
• the pulverulent dyestuffs that have been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent may constitute from 10% to 100% by weight of all the dyestuffs.
• pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of the present invention
• mention may in particular be made of gold-colored pearlescent agents in particular sold by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent agents, in particular sold by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange pearlescent agents, in particular sold by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma
• the pearlescent agents surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic agent may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 5% to 30% by weight.
• the pulverulent dyestuffs as described above may be totally or partially surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, in particular with a compound of fluorinated nature, a fatty acid or an amino acid, or a mixture thereof.
• a subject of the present invention is thus also a composition, which can be used in the method according to the invention, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the siloxane resins a) and b) as defined above and at least one pulverulent dyestuff that has been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent chosen from a compound of fluorinated nature, a fatty acid, an amino acid and a mixture thereof.
• a hydrophobic agent chosen from a compound of fluorinated nature, a fatty acid, an amino acid and a mixture thereof.
• compound of fluorinated nature is intended to mean a compound comprising at least one fluorine atom.
• the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates, poly(hexafluoropropylene oxide)s; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
• fatty acids for instance stearic acid
• metal soaps for instance aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
• perfluoroalkyl phosphates poly(hexafluoropropylene oxide)s
• perfluoropolyethers perfluoropolyethers
• amino acids N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof
• lecithin isopropyl titanium triisostearate, isostearyl sebacate
• the hydrophobic treatment agent is chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, poly(hexafluoropropylene oxide)s, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.
• the surface-treated pulverulent dyestuffs can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature which are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
• the surface agent may be absorbed or adsorbed onto the pulverulent dyestuffs by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
• the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pulverulent dyestuffs.
• the coating may represent from 1% to 300% by weight of the weight of the untreated pulverulent dyestuffs, for example from 5% to 200%, in particular from 10% to 100% by weight of the weight of untreated pulverulent dyestuffs.
• the coating may represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pulverulent dyestuff.
• the coating can be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent at the surface of the pulverulent dyestuffs by simple mixing, with stirring, of said pulverulent dyestuffs and of said surface agent, optionally hot mixing, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
• the coating can be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pulverulent dyestuffs and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pulverulent dyestuffs. This method is in particular described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,578,266.
• the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, in dispersing the pulverulent dyestuffs in this mixture, and then in slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, in such a way that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pulverulent dyestuffs.
• the solid particles can be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of fluorinated nature.
• the fluorinated surface agents may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE) and perfluoroalkanes.
• the perfluoropolyethers are in particular described in patent application EP-A-486135, and sold under the trade names Fomblin by the company Montefluos.
• perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984.
• the perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamines sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 may be used.
• the perfluoroalkanes may be linear or cyclic perfluoroalkanes.
• linear perfluoroalkanes mention may be made of the linear alkane series, such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.
• cyclic perfluoroalkanes mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, and aromatic perfluorinated hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes).
• perfluoroalkanes mention may also be made of perfluorinated hydrocarbon-based organo compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.
• perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes) mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name Flutec PP5 GMP by the company Rhodia, perfluoro(methyldecalin), and perfluoro(C3-C5 alkyl cyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).
• perfluoropolycycloalkanes mention may be made of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives, such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives, such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and perfluoro derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene, such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.
• bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane
• adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane
• perfluoro derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.
• perfluoroarenes mention may be made of perfluoro derivatives of naphthalene, for instance perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene.
• the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl titanium triisostearate (also known as ITT), and mixtures thereof.
• fatty acids such as stearic acid
• metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
• amino acids such as N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof
• lecithin isopropyl titanium triisostearate (also known as ITT), and mixtures thereof.
• the N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
• the salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
• the amino acid may, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
• the fatty acids are, in the present invention, in particular acids having hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 5 to 18 carbon atoms.
• the hydrocarbon-based chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.
• fatty acid-coated pigments By way of example of fatty acid-coated pigments, mention may be made of those sold under the trade reference NAI-TAO-77891, NAI-C33-8073-10, NAI-C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10, NAI-C33-115, NAI-C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10, NAI-C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei.
• ITT isopropyl titanium triisostearate
• BWBO-I2 Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
• BWYO-I2 Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
• BWRO-I2 Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
• composition according to the invention may comprise one or more other components, and in particular components chosen from oils, nonionic surfactants, amphiphilic silicone elastomers, pulverulent dyestuffs that have not been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, pasty compounds of nonanimal origin, fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agents (in particular with the exception of dimethicone crosspolymers), waxes (in particular with the exception of candelilla wax, ozokerite and silicone waxes), hydrophilic gelling agents, fillers, pulverulent dyestuffs that have not been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, film-forming polymers, ionic surfactants (in particular with the exception of lauryl ether sulfate), fibers, and mixtures thereof.
• oils nonionic surfactants, amphiphilic silicone elastomers, pulverulent dyestuffs that have not been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, pasty compounds of nonanimal
• composition according to the invention may comprise one or more other components chosen from oils, nonionic surfactants, amphiphilic silicone elastomers, pulverulent dyestuffs that have not been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agents (in particular with the exception of dimethicone crosspolymers), hydrophilic gelling agents, fillers, film-forming polymers, in particular lipophilic film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.
• oils nonionic surfactants, amphiphilic silicone elastomers, pulverulent dyestuffs that have not been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agents (in particular with the exception of dimethicone crosspolymers), hydrophilic gelling agents, fillers, film-forming polymers, in particular lipophilic film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.
• compositions according to the invention may also comprise an amphiphilic silicone elastomer, preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
• polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers mention may be made of those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986; U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004; U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793; and U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487.
• polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers use may be made of:
• polyglycerolated silicone elastomers use may be made of:
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one oil.
• the oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
• the oil may be chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
• hydrocarbon-based oils is intended to mean an oil formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atom; it may contain ester, ether, amine and/or amide groups.
• silicon oil is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si—O groups.
• fluoro oil is intended to mean an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.
• volatile oil is intended to mean an oil (or nonaqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature and which has in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular which has a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
• the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150° C. to 260° C., and preferably ranging from 170° C. to 250° C.
• composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil particularly chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point ranging from 40° C. to 102° C., preferably ranging from 40° C. to 55° C., and preferentially ranging from 40° C. to 50° C.
• volatile hydrocarbon-based oil mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes, for instance the C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permethyls, branched C8-C16 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
• branched C8-C16 alkanes also known as isoparaffins
• isododecane also known as isoparaffins
• isohexadecane oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permethyls
• branched C8-C16 esters for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
• the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is in particular isododecane.
• volatile hydrocarbon-based solvents containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms for good color staying-power properties while retaining a matt deposit that is comfortable for foundation applications, volatile hydrocarbon-based solvents containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 13 carbon atoms, will be preferred.
• volatile C8 to C16 hydrocarbon-based solvents mention may in particular be made of linear or branched alkanes, in particular branched alkanes, for instance the C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permethyls, and mixtures thereof.
• the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
• the volatile solvent is isododecane.
• the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent is a volatile linear alkane having a flash point included in the range of 70 to 120° C., and more particularly from 80 to 100° C., and which especially is approximately 89° C.
• a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (approximately 25° C.).
• an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
• a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be advantageously of plant origin.
• Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a plant starting material, for instance an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
• alkane suitable for the invention mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent application WO 2007/068371 from the company Cognis.
• alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra oil or palm oil.
• n-nonane C9
• n-decane C10
• n-undecane C11
• n-dodecane C12
• n-tridecane C13
• n-tetradecane C14
• n-pentadecane C15
• n-hexadecane C16
• n-heptadecane C17
• mixtures thereof and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) sold under the reference Cetiol UT by the company Cognis.
• a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n-heptadecane, and mixtures thereof.
• a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
• the n-undecane:n-tridecane weight ratio may be 50:50 to 90:10, preferably ranging from 60:40 to 80:20, preferably ranging from 65:35 to 75:25.
• composition according to the invention may comprise an n-undecane:n-tridecane mixture in a 70:30 weight ratio.
• a mixture is sold under the name Cetiol UT by the company Cognis.
• volatile linear hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms will advantageously be used.
• volatile silicone oils mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
• volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention mention may in particular be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
• the volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 70% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 5% to 50% by weight.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
• non-volatile oil is intended to mean oil which remains on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 ⁇ 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
• Non-volatile oil can also be defined as having a rate of evaporation such that, under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm 2 .
• non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil use may be made of liquid paraffin (or petroleum jelly), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, beauty-leaf oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil; lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid esters; fatty esters, in particular of C12-C36, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl la
• non-volatile C6-C22 hydrocarbon-based oils that can be chosen from:
• the non-volatile C6-C22 hydrocarbon-based oil advantageously used in said makeup and/or care compositions intended for rendering the complexion matt is dicaprylyl carbonate, in particular sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis.
• this oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils.
• phenyl silicone oils Such an oil is also known as a phenyl silicone.
• phenyl silicone is intended to mean an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.
• the phenyl silicone is preferably non-volatile.
• non-volatile is intended to mean an oil of which the vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.13 Pa.
• the weight-average molecular weight of the phenyl silicone oil is between 500 and 10 000 g/mol.
• the silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
• the silicone oil may correspond to the formula:
• the silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
• the silicone oil corresponds to the formula:
• said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
• the silicone oil corresponds to the formula:
• Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.
• phenyl silicone is in particular produced by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane).
• Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used.
• the silicone oil corresponds to the formula:
• Me represents methyl
• y is between 1 and 1000
• X represents —CH 2 —CH(CH 3 )(Ph).
• the silicone oil corresponds to the formula:
• the phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from the phenyl silicones of following formula (VI):
• the sum ‘m+n+q’ is between 1 and 100.
• the sum ‘m+n+p+q’ is between 1 and 900, even better still between 1 and 800.
• q is equal to 0.
• the phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from the phenyl silicones of following formula (VII):
• R1 to R6 independently of one another, represent a linear or branched, saturated, C1-C30, in particular C1-12, hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.
• R1 to R6 may be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
• a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VI) having a viscosity at 25° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt).
• phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII) use may in particular be made of phenyl trimethicones, such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the Silbione 70663V30 oil from Rhone Poulenc (28 cSt), or diphenyl dimethicones, such as the Belsil oils, in particular Belsil PDM1000 (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker.
• the values between parentheses represent the viscosities at 25° C.
• the non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from the silicones of formula:
• R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms
• R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical,
• X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to confer on the oil a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.
• the non-volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the non-volatile liquid fatty phase, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 50% by weight.
• volatile or non-volatile linear silicone oils will advantageously be used.
• the combination of the resins according to the invention and of a linear silicone oil can in particular make it possible to improve the transfer resistance.
• phenyl silicone oils will advantageously be used.
• the combination of the resins according to the invention and of a phenyl silicone oil can in particular make it possible to improve the gloss and the comfort and to reduce the tacky sensation.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
• an emulsifier having, at 25° C., an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), within the meaning of Griffin, specific for the composition that it is intended to obtain.
• HLB balance hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
• nonionic surfactants preferentially used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from:
• the nonionic surfactant may also be chosen from a C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C8-C22) alkyldimethylmethylsiloxane.
• the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of formula (I) below:
• C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol mention may be made of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
• ком ⁇ онент intended for formulating stable emulsions, having a low viscosity allowing easy application, while at the same time conferring, on the makeup product, staying power of the makeup product over time once applied, use will advantageously be made of at least one nonionic silicone surfactant, optionally combined with at least one hydrocarbon-based surfactant and optionally also at least one wax.
• nonionic silicone surfactant mention may, for example, be made of:
• polydialkyl silicones comprising polyoxyalkylenated (polyoxyethylenated (or PEO) and/or polyoxypropylenated (or PPO)) hydrophilic side and/or end groups.
• these silicone surfactants preferably comprise linear or branched C1 to C20 alkyl side groups, preferably linear alkyl groups, such as lauryl or cetyl. These surfactants may also bear organosiloxane side groups.
• silicone surfactants also preferably comprise linear or branched C1 to C20 alkyl side groups, and preferably also linear alkyl groups, such as lauryl or cetyl.
• these glycerolated silicone surfactants may also bear organosiloxane side groups.
• cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the name Abil EM90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, is preferred.
• the nonionic silicone surfactant is advantageously in combination with at least one nonionic organic surfactant.
• nonionic organic surfactant mention may be made of fatty acid esters of polyols, for instance sorbitol or glycerol mono-, di-, tri- or sesquioleates or stearates, or glycerol or polyethylene glycol laurates; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate); polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (stearate, oleate) of sorbitol; polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl)ethers.
• nonionic organic surfactants the following are preferred:
• nonionic organic surfactants the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate sold under the name Isolan GI34® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt is preferred.
• At least one wax may advantageously be used in combination with the nonionic silicone surfactant and the nonionic organic surfactant.
• the mixture of ethylene glycol acetyl stearate/glyceryl tristearate in particular sold under the name Unitwix by the company United Guardian, is preferred.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise a fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agent.
• fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agent is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase of the composition.
• the fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agent makes it possible in particular to obtain a composition that can have a texture ranging from fluid to solid textures.
• the fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agents are chosen from crystalline polymers, mineral lipophilic structuring agents, lipophilic polyamides, lipophilic polyureas and polyurethanes, silicone polymers comprising, as appropriate, at least one hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups and combinations thereof, organogelling agents, block polymers, cholesterol-based liquid crystal agents, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymers, and vinyl dimethicone/alkyl dimethicone copolymers, such as vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone copolymers.
• silicone polymers comprising, as appropriate, at least one hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions,
• the fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agent may be chosen from:
• the fatty-phase rheological agent is chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, block polymers, lipophilic polyamide-type polymers, and silicone polymers comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from amide groups, mineral lipophilic structuring agents, in particular lipophilic clays and hydrophobic silicas, and silicone elastomers.
• oils in the case of the combinations of a fatty-phase rheological agent with an oil, the term “oil” is intended to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature.
• the oils may be those described above.
• the fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agent may be a mineral lipophilic structuring agent.
• lipophilic clays for instance optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
• Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
• clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites or saponites, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite family. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
• the clay may be chosen from montmorrillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
• the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
• Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
• organophilic clays mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Elementis, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by the company Elementis, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay.
• the thickening agent is chosen from organophilic modified clays, such as hectorite modified with benzyldimethylammonium stearate.
• hydrophobic silicas for instance fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ m. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is in particular possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
• the hydrophobic groups may be:
• the hydrophobic fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
• polymer is intended to mean a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and better still 10 repeating units.
• polyamides branched with pendant fatty chains and/or terminal fatty chains containing from 12 to 120 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, the terminal fatty chains being bonded to the polyamide backbone via ester groups.
• These polymers are more especially those described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657 from the company Union Camp.
• structuring polymers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the commercial products sold by the company Bush Boake Allen under the names Uniclear 80, Uniclear 100, Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG. They are sold, respectively, in the form of a gel at 80% (with respect to active material) in a mineral oil and at 100% (with respect to active material). They have a softening point of from 88 to 94° C. These commercial products are a mixture of copolymer of a C 36 diacid coupled with ethylenediamine, having an average molecular weight of approximately 6000. The remaining acid end groups are, in addition, esterified with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also known as cetylstearyl alcohol).
• polyurethanes and polyureas that are soluble or dispersible in hydrocarbon-based oil(s), and which comprise:
• hydrocarbon-based long chain is intended to mean a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 500 carbon atoms.
• the silicone polymeric lipophilic structuring agents are, for example, polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for instance those described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680.
• the polymers used as structuring agent can belong to the following two families:
• the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions can be chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups and combinations thereof.
• the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above in which the units capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are located in the polymer chain.
• a polymer comprising, in addition, at least one hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups and combinations thereof.
• copolymers may be block polymers, sequenced polymers or grafted polymers.
• the polymer is made up of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups.
• a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups.
• the polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a solid-liquid transition temperature of 45° C. to 190° C.
• they Preferably, they have a solid-liquid transition temperature ranging from 70° C. to 130° C. and better still from 80° C. to 105° C.
• the oily structuring agent may also be chosen from non-polymeric molecular organic gelling agents, also known as organogelling agents, which are compounds whose molecules are capable of establishing between themselves physical interactions leading to self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a supramolecular 3D network that is responsible for the gelation of the oil(s) (also known as the liquid fatty phase).
• organogelling agents also known as organogelling agents
• the supramolecular network may result from the formation of a network of fibrils (caused by the stacking or aggregation of organogelling molecules), which immobilizes the molecules of the liquid fatty phase.
• the physical interactions are of diverse nature but exclude co-crystallization. These physical interactions are in particular interactions of self-complementary hydrogen interaction type, ⁇ interactions between unsaturated rings, dipolar interactions, coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives, and combinations thereof.
• each molecule of an organogelling agent can establish several types of physical interaction with a neighboring molecule.
• the molecules of the organogelling agents according to the invention comprise at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds and better still at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, at least one aromatic ring and better still at least two aromatic rings, at least one or more ethylenically unsaturated bonds and/or at least one or more asymmetric carbons.
• the groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds are chosen from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, urea and benzyl groups, and combinations thereof.
• the organogelling agent(s) according to the invention is (are) soluble in the liquid fatty phase after heating to obtain a transparent uniform liquid phase. They may be solid or liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• the molecular organogelling agent(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention is (are) especially those described in the document “Specialist Surfactants” edited by D. Robb, 1997, pp. 209-263, Chapter 8 by P. Terech, European patent applications EP-A-1 068 854 and EP-A-1 086 945, or alternatively in patent application WO-A-02/47031.
• amides of carboxylic acids in particular of tricarboxylic acids, for instance cyclohexanetricarboxamides
• diamides with hydrocarbon-based chains each containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, said chains being unsubstituted or substituted with at least one substituent chosen from ester, urea and fluoro groups see patent application EP-A-1 086 945) and especially diamides resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, in particular diaminocyclohexane in trans form, and of an acid chloride, for instance N,N′-bis-(dodecanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane, N-acylamino acid amides, for instance the diamides resulting from the action of an N-acylamino acid with amines containing
• organogelling agents compounds of bis-urea type having the following general formula:
• a carbon-based radical especially a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical (alkyl), containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from N, O, Si and S; or
• n is between 0 and 100, especially between 1 and 80, or even 2 to 20;
• R2 to R6 being, independently of each other, carbon-based radicals, especially linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals (alkyl) containing 1 to 12 and especially 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms, especially O;
• carbon-based radicals especially linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radicals (alkyl), containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from N, O, Si and S;
• n is between 0 and 100, especially between 1 and 80, or even 2 to 20;
• R′ 2 to R′ 6 being, independently of each other, carbon-based radicals, especially linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals (alkyl), containing 1 to 12 and especially 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms, especially O;
• the group A may especially be of formula:
• R1 may be a methyl group, which leads to a group A of formula:
• the compounds according to the invention may be in the form of a mixture linked to the fact that A may be a mixture of 2,4-tolylene and 2,6-tolylene, especially in (2,4 isomer)/(2,6 isomer) proportions ranging from 95/5 to 80/20.
• At least one of the radicals R and/or R′ should be of formula (III):
• L is preferably a divalent carbon-based radical, especially a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical (alkylene), containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from N, O and S.
• alkylene saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical
• the carbon-based chain may be interrupted with the heteroatom(s) and/or may comprise a substituent comprising said heteroatom(s).
• L is chosen from methylene, ethylene, propylene and butylene radicals and especially n-butylene or octylene.
• the radical L may also be branched, for example of the type —CH 2 —CH(CH 3 )—, which leads to the radical of formula (III) below:
• the radical R a may be a carbon-based radical, especially a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical (alkyl), containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from N, O, Si and S.
• the carbon-based chain may be interrupted with the heteroatom(s) and/or may comprise a substituent comprising said heteroatom(s); the heteroatoms may especially form one or more —SiO— (or —OSi—) groups.
• R a may be methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl.
• the radical R a may also be a silicone radical of formula:
• R2 to R6 are, independently of each other, preferably alkyl radicals containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms and especially 1 to 6 carbon atoms; in particular, R2 to R6 may be chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl;
• n 1 to 100; and even more particularly a radical:
• the radicals R b and R c which may be identical or different, may be carbon-based radicals, especially linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radicals (alkyl), containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from N, O, Si and S.
• the carbon-based chain may be interrupted with the heteroatom(s) and/or may comprise a substituent comprising said heteroatom(s); the heteroatoms may especially form one or more —SiO— (or —OSi—) groups.
• R b and/or R c may be methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl.
• They may also have the structure —O—(CH 2 )m′-CH 3 with m′ ⁇ 0 to 5, especially 1 to 4 and in particular methoxy or ethoxy.
• n is between 0 and 100, especially between 1 and 80 or even 2 to 20;
• R′ 2 to R′ 6 being, independently of each other, preferably alkyl radicals containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms and especially 1 to 6 carbon atoms; in particular, R′ 2 to R′ 6 may be chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl.
• radicals R and/or R′ are preferably chosen from the following radicals:
• n 0 to 100 and in particular
• L is a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkylene radical, especially methylene, ethylene, propylene or butylene and especially n-butylene or octylene, or of formula —CH 2 —CH(CH 3 )—.
• R and R′ which may be identical or different, are both of formula (III).
• one of the radicals R or R′ represents a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, optionally comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O, S, F and N.
• radical R or R′ may be a group chosen from:
• R or R′ represents a branched, especially mono-branched, preferably acyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms, especially 4 to 12 or even 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and optionally comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O, S, F and/or N, preferably O and/or N.
• R or R′ may be tert-butyl or 2-ethylhexyl radicals or of formula:
• the ratio between n R and n R′ is preferably between 5/95 and 95/5, for example between 10/90 and 90/10, in particular between 40/60 and 85/15, especially between 50/50 and 80/20, or even between 60/40 and 75/25;
• n R being the number of moles of amine NH 2 —R and n R′ being the number of moles of amine NH 2 —R′ used to prepare the compound of formula (I).
• the compounds according to the invention may be in the form of salts and/or of isomers of compounds of formula (I).
• non-silicone bis-urea compounds may correspond to the general formula (II) below:
• R′ being a linear or branched C 1 to C 4 alkyl radical and the *s symbolizing the points of attachment of the group A to each of the two nitrogen atoms of the residue of the compound of general formula (II), and
• the group represented by A is a group of formula:
• R′ may be a methyl group, and the group A is then more particularly a group of formula:
• R may be chosen from the mono-branched radicals of general formula C n H 2n+1 , n being an integer ranging from 6 to 15, in particular from 7 to 9 or even equal to 8.
• the two groups R of the compound of formula (II) may represent, respectively, a group:
• R may be chosen from the mono-branched radicals of general formula C m ⁇ p H 2m+1 ⁇ 2p X p , p being equal to 1, 2 or 3, preferably equal to 1, m being an integer ranging from 6 to 15, preferably from 10 to 14, in particular from 10 to 12, or even equal to 11, and X representing sulfur and/or oxygen atoms, in particular oxygen atoms.
• R may be a radical of formula C m′ H 2m′ X—(C p′ H 2p′ X′) r —C x —H 2x+1 , in which X and X′ are, independently of each other, an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably oxygen, r is 0 or l, m′, p′ and x are integers such that their sum ranges from 6 to 15, in particular from 10 to 12, or even is equal to 11, and it being understood that at least one of the carbon-based chains C m′ —H 2m′ , C p′ H 2p′ , or C x H 2x+1 is branched.
• n is the chain C x H 2x+1 that is branched, preferably r is equal to 0, preferably m′ is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, especially from 2 to 6, in particular is equal to 3, and/or preferably x is an integer ranging from 4 to 16, especially from 6 to 12 and in particular is equal to 8.
• the two groups R of the compound of formula (I) may represent, respectively, a group:
• Such compounds may be present in the compositions according to the invention as mixtures with isomers, especially positional isomers on the group A, especially in 95/5 or 80/20 proportions.
• n and m are equal, and more particularly equal to zero, and R 3 is a radical R′ 3 as defined below.
• R 3 is a radical R′ 3 as defined below.
• R 3 ′ being a linear or branched C 1 to C 4 alkyl radical and * symbolizing the points of attachment of the group A to the two nitrogen atoms of the residue of the compound of general formula (III).
• the compound of general formula (III) comprises, as A, at least one group chosen from:
• R 3 ′ may be a methyl group, and in this case the group A represents a group
• the compounds are such that A is a mixture of 2,4-tolylene and 2,6-tolylene, especially in (2,4 isomer)/(2,6 isomer) proportions ranging from 95/5 to 80/20.
• the compound of general formula (III) comprises, as R 1 , a branched C 6 -C 15 radical.
• the compound of general formula (III) comprises, as R 1 , a group chosen from:
• R 2 which is different from R 1 , it may be advantageously chosen from the following groups:
• grafted or sequenced block copolymers comprising at least one block of polyorganosiloxane type and at least one block of a free-radical polymer, for instance grafted copolymers of acrylic/silicone type, which may be used especially when the non-aqueous medium is a silicone phase.
• grafted or sequenced block copolymers comprising at least one block of polyorganosiloxane type and at least one block of a polyether.
• the polyorganopolysiloxane block may especially be a polydimethylsiloxane or a poly(C 2 -C 18 )alkylmethylsiloxane; the polyether block may be a poly(C 2 -C 18 )alkylene, in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene.
• dimethicone copolyols or (C 2 -C 18 )alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as those sold under the name Dow Corning 3225C by the company Dow Corning, and lauryl methicones such as those sold under the name Dow Corning Q2-5200 by the company Dow Corning, may be used.
• Grafted or sequenced block copolymers that may also be mentioned include those comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer containing one or more optionally conjugated ethylenic bonds, for instance ethylene or dienes such as butadiene and isoprene, and of at least one block of a vinyl polymer and better still a styrene polymer.
• the ethylenic monomer comprises several optionally conjugated ethylenic bonds
• the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization are generally hydrogenated.
• the polymerization of isoprene leads, after hydrogenation, to the formation of an ethylene-propylene block
• the polymerization of butadiene leads, after hydrogenation, to the formation of an ethylene-butylene block.
• block copolymers especially of “diblock” or “triblock” type such as polystyrene/polyisoprene (SI), polystyrene/polybutadiene (SB) such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by BASF, of the type such as polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) (SEP) such as those sold under the name Kraton by Shell Chemical Co or of the type such as polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) (SEB).
• SI polystyrene/polyisoprene
• SB polystyrene/polybutadiene
• SEP polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene)
• SEB polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene)
• the polymers are generally known as hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated diene copolymers.
• Gelled Permethyl 99A-750, 99A-753-59 and 99A-753-58 may also be used.
• grafted or sequenced block copolymers comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer containing one or more ethylenic bonds and of at least one block of an acrylic polymer
• grafted or sequenced block copolymers comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer containing one or more ethylenic bonds and of at least one block of a polyether such as a C 2 -C 18 polyalkylene (especially polyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene), mention may be made of polyoxyethylene/polybutadiene or polyoxyethylene/polyisobutylene diblock or triblock copolymers.
• elastomer is intended to mean a deformable, flexible solid material having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge. This elastomer is formed from high-molecular-weight polymeric chains, the mobility of which is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points.
• the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used the composition according to the invention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked. They are in the form of particles.
• the particles of elastomeric organopolysiloxane have a size ranging from 0.1 to 500 ⁇ m, preferably from 3 to 200 ⁇ m and better still from 3 to 50 ⁇ m. These particles can have any shape and, for example, be spherical, flat or amorphous.
• these elastomeric organopolysiloxanes When they are included in an oily phase, these elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are converted, according to the amount of oily phase used, into a product which has a spongy appearance when they are used in the presence of low contents of oily phase, or into a homogeneous gel in the presence of higher amounts of oily phase.
• the gelling of the oily phase by these elastomers may be total or partial.
• the elastomers of the invention can be conveyed in the form of an anhydrous gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane and an oily phase.
• the oily phase used during the production of the anhydrous gel of elastomeric organopolysiloxane contains one or more oils that are liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.), chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils.
• the oily phase is a silicone liquid phase containing one or more oils chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes with a linear or cyclic chain, which are liquid at ambient temperature and which optionally comprise an alkyl or aryl chain that is pendant or at the end of a chain, the alkyl chain containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used according to the invention can be obtained by addition and crosslinking reaction, in the presence of a catalyst, preferably a platinum catalyst, of at least:
• the first organopolysiloxane (i) is chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; it is preferably an ⁇ - ⁇ -dimethylvinylpolydimethylsiloxane.
• the organopolysiloxane is preferably in a gel obtained according to the following steps:
• the crosslinked organopolysiloxane can be obtained by polymeric addition reaction of an organohydrogenopolysiloxane of formula (I) with an organopolysiloxane of formula (II) and/or an unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain of formula (III).
• the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by polymeric reaction of an organohydrogenopolysiloxane of formula (I) with an organopolysiloxane of formula (II).
• the organohydrogenopolysiloxane of formula (I) comprises at least one structural unit chosen from the group composed of an SiO 2 unit, an HSiO 1.5 unit, an RSiO 1.5 unit, an RHSiO unit, an R 2 SiO unit, an R 3 SiO 0.5 unit and an R 2 HSiO 0.5 unit, the R group being, in these units, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 16 carbon atoms that may be substituted or unsubstituted, but which is distinct from an unsaturated aliphatic group, and which has on average at least 1.5 hydrogen atoms bonded to a silicon atom.
• the R group in the organohydrogenopolysiloxane of formula (I) may be an alkyl group containing from 1 to 16, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
• This R group may, for example, be a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a lauryl group, a myristyl group or a palmityl group.
• the R group in the organohydrogenopolysiloxane of formula (I) may also be an aryl group, such as a phenyl or tolyl group.
• the R group still in the organohydrogenopolysiloxane of formula (I) may also be a monovalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising a cycloalkyl group, such as cyclohexyl, or else a hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with one, two or more groups chosen from a halogen atom, such as chlorine, bromine or fluorine, and a cyano group, for example an ⁇ -trifluoropropyl or chloromethyl group.
• a halogen atom such as chlorine, bromine or fluorine
• a cyano group for example an ⁇ -trifluoropropyl or chloromethyl group.
• At least 30 mol % of the R groups are preferably methyl groups, and from 5 to 50 mol %, preferably from 10 to 40 mol %, of the R groups are a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
• the hydrocarbon-based chain may then advantageously comprise at least one lauryl group, or even the majority of the R groups may be lauryl groups.
• the organohydrogenopolysiloxane of formula (I) may be linear, branched or cyclic.
• the organohydrogenopolysiloxane of formula (I) preferably contains from 2 to 50 and even more preferably from 2 to 10 hydrogen atoms bonded to a silicon atom (Si—H).
• the content of hydrogen atoms bonded to a silicon atom in this compound of formula (I) conventionally varies from 0.5 to 50 mol %, and even more preferably from 1 to 20 mol %, relative to the total sum of the hydrogen atoms and of all the organic groups bonded to a silicon atom.
• the organopolysiloxane of formula (II) comprises at least one structural unit chosen from the group composed of an SiO 2 unit, a (CH 2 ⁇ CH)SiO 1.5 unit, an RSiO 1.5 unit, an R(CH 2 ⁇ CH)SiO unit, an R 2 SiO unit, an R 3 SiO 0.5 unit and an R 2 (CH 2 ⁇ CH)SiO 0.5 unit, the R group being as defined in formula (I) and having, on average, at least 1.5 vinyl groups bonded to a silicon atom.
• This compound preferably contains from 2 to 50 vinyl groups bonded to a silicon atom.
• the average number of vinyl groups bonded to a silicon atom preferably varies from 2 to 10, and even more preferably from 2 to 5.
• At least 30 mol % of the R groups are methyl groups and 5 to 50 mol %, preferably 10 to 40 mol %, of the R groups are a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
• the organopolysiloxane of formula (II) may be linear, branched or cyclic.
• the content of vinyl group in the compound of formula (II) preferably ranges between 0.5 and 50 mol %, even more preferably from 1 to 20 mol %, relative to all the organic groups bonded to a silicon atom.
• the unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain of formula (III) corresponds to the following formula:
• n is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
• x is an integer at least equal to 1.
• x is preferably an integer ranging from 1 to 20.
• crosslinked polyalkyldimethylsiloxanes are preferred.
• polyalkyldimethylsiloxane is intended to mean a linear organopolysiloxane of formula (IV)
• Ra is an alkyl group containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and can preferably be a lauryl group,
• ya is an integer ranging from 1 to 100
• za is an integer ranging from 1 to 100
• yb is an integer ranging from 1 to 100
• zb is an integer ranging from 1 to 100.
• divalently bonded is intended to mean bonded to two distinct organopolysiloxanes of formula (IV). In other words, it involves a bridge between two linear chains as defined by formula (IV).
• nonemulsifiable elastomers that can be used according to the invention, use is preferably made of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymers (INCI name: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer), and vinyl dimethicone/alkyl dimethicone copolymers, for instance vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone copolymers (INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).
• dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymers INCI name: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
• vinyl dimethicone/alkyl dimethicone copolymers for instance vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone copolymers (INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).
• nonemulsifying elastomers that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
• nonemulsifying elastomer mention may also be made of spherical nonemulsifying silicone elastomers in the form of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,538,793.
• Such elastomers are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin Etsu.
• elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical powders may be powders of hybrid silicone functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, in particular sold under the name KSP-200 by the company Shin Etsu; powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with phenyl groups, in particular sold under the name KSP-300 by the company Shin Etsu.
• compositions according to the invention use may also be made of elastomers of silicones with an MQ group, such as those sold by the company Wacker under the names Belsil RG100, Belsil RPG33 and preferentially RG80.
• elastomers of silicones with an MQ group such as those sold by the company Wacker under the names Belsil RG100, Belsil RPG33 and preferentially RG80.
• lipophilic thickeners also called gelling agents
• ethylcellulose for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel® by the company Dow Chemical
• lipophilic thickeners suitable for the invention mention may also be made of copolymers of the polystyrene/polyalkylene type, and more particularly “diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” block copolymers of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton® by the company Kraton Polymers, or else of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, blends of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel®, for instance the blend of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styren
• lipophilic thickeners that can be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention
• fatty acid esters of dextrin such as dextrin palmitates, in particular those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour
• hydrogenated plant oils such as hydrogenated castor oil
• fatty alcohols in particular C 8 to C 26 , and more particularly C 12 to C 22
• fatty alcohols for instance myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or else polyvinyl alcohol.
• Thickeners that may also be mentioned include glyceryl poly(meth)acrylate polymers; polyvinylpyrrolidone; associative polymers, and in particular associative polyurethanes; polysaccharide alkyl ethers (in particular in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10, better still from 1 to 6, and more especially from 1 to 3), such as those described in document EP-A-898958.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax.
• the term “wax” is intended to mean a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may be up to 120° C.
• the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
• D.S.C. differential scanning calorimeter
• the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicon waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
• the waxes have a melting point of greater than 25° C. and better still greater than 45° C.
• the wax or the mixture of waxes is present in a content at least equal to 7% by weight. Preferably, it is present in a content ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 15% to 35% and even better still from 16% to 30% by weight.
• the waxes are chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched, C8-C32 fatty chains, fluoro waxes, wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and tacky waxes.
• Hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may in particular be used.
• waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched, C8-C32 fatty chains may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched, C8-C32 fatty chains.
• waxes mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.
• Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
• the wax present in the composition according to the invention may be totally or partially in powder form, in particular micronized powder form, so as to facilitate its use in the preparation of the cosmetic composition.
• Such additional micronized waxes make it possible in particular to improve the properties during application of the composition to the skin.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, also subsequently referred to as hydrophilic thickener.
• thickeners may be used alone or in combination. These thickeners may in particular be chosen from cellulosic polymers and gums.
• hydrophilic thickener is intended to mean a thickening agent that is water-soluble or water-dispersible.
• hydrophilic thickeners mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may in particular be chosen from:
• the hydrophilic thickener may be chosen from associative polymers.
• associative polymer is intended to mean any amphiphilic polymer comprising, in its structure, at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.
• the associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.
• the associative anionic polymers mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly from those in which the hydrophilic unit is made up of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly of a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly of an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and in which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:
• R′ denotes H or CH 3
• B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical
• n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100
• R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.
• anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 -C 30 ) alkyl ester type.
• cationic associative polymers mention may be made of quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing amine side groups.
• the nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:
• the associative polymer is chosen from associative polyurethanes.
• Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising, in the chain, both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
• these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic block.
• the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic block.
• the associative polyurethanes may be blocked in triblock or multiblock form.
• the hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and within the chain (multiblock copolymer for example).
• the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
• the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence the name.
• the associative polymers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the polymer C 16 -OE 120 -C 16 from the company Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, which is a molecule containing a urethane function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit.
• An associative polymer that may also be used is Rheolate 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or else Rheolate 208 or 204 or else Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form.
• the product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas containing a C 20 alkyl chain and with a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
• solutions or dispersions of these polymers in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium.
• SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company RHEOX.
• RHEOX Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company RHEOX.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.
• the filler(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight.
• fillers should be understood to mean colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is produced. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
• the fillers may be mineral or organic, of any form: platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong. When they are mineral, they may have any crystallographic form (for example, lamella, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), polymethyl methacrylate powders, acrylic polymer, poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders, lauroyllysine powders, starch powders, cellulose powders, boron nitride, hollow organic polymer microspheres, in particular polymeric hollow microspheres of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning) and silicon resin microbeads (Tospe
• the combination of the resins according to the invention with at least one filler of mineral nature, optionally in combination with at least one organic filler makes it possible to obtain a product of which the finish is soft and of which the cosmetic properties are stable over time, in particular throughout the day.
• the product also glides on the skin, during application, without any sensation of rubbing, and gives said skin a soft feel.
• mineral fillers By way of mineral fillers, mention may in particular be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), or glass or ceramic microcapsules, clay, quartz, natural diamond powder, or a mixture thereof.
• silica powder mention may be made of:
• the mineral filler is silica, talc or a mixture thereof.
• silicas for instance hollow silica microspheres, in particular the SB700® from Miyoshi Kasei, are preferred.
• the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one other filler.
• Said at least one other filler may be mineral or organic. It may thus be a mixture of mineral and organic fillers.
• composition according to the invention may contain a mineral filler and another mineral filler, said mineral fillers being as defined above, and optionally at least one organic filler, as defined below.
• composition according to the invention may contain a mineral filler and an organic filler.
• organic fillers By way of organic fillers, mention may in particular be made of polyamide (Nylon® or Orgasol® from Arkema) powders, acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate powders, polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders, cellulose, poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders, lauroyllysine, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning), and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxan
• acrylic polymer powder mention may be made of:
• elastomeric silicone powder mention may be made of the powders sold under the names Trefil® Powder E-505C and Trefil® Powder E-506C by the company Dow Corning.
• the organic filler corresponds to polyamide powders.
• composition according to the invention comprises mineral fillers and other fillers of organic type, they may be advantageously in said composition in a mineral fillers/organic fillers ratio of greater than or equal to 1.
• the filler may be chosen from “sebum-absorbing” fillers.
• the sebum-absorbing filler may be a mineral powder or an organic powder; it may be chosen from silica, polyamide (Nylon®) powders, acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate powders, polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders; polymeric hollow microspheres of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, elastomeric silicone powders, in particular obtained by polymerization of organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and of an organopolysiloxane comprising
• polymeric hollow microspheres of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile mention may be made of those sold under the name Expancel® by the company Nobel Industrie.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff that has not been surface-treated.
• the dyestuff may be chosen from the pulverulent dyestuffs (in particular the pigments and the pearlescent agents) as described above, water-soluble dyestuffs or liposoluble dyestuffs.
• the pigments and the pearlescent agents may be defined as above, but here have not been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent.
• water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and methylene blue.
• the synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ -carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
• the dyestuffs, in particular the pigments, that have not been surface-treated may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 20% by weight.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
• film-forming polymer is intended to mean a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and even better still a film of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said film is produced by pouring onto a non-stick surface, for instance a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
• the film-forming polymer(s) used can be conveyed in the oily phase (liposoluble or lipodispersible polymers) or conveyed in an aqueous phase (water-soluble polymers or latex).
• the composition may comprise an aqueous phase and the film-forming polymer may be present in this aqueous phase.
• said polymer will preferably be a polymer in an aqueous dispersion (latex) or a water-soluble polymer.
• film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and blends thereof.
• water-soluble film-forming polymers examples include:
• the film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase, generally known as latex or pseudolatex.
• latex or pseudolatex The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
• Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer that may be used include the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the company Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer, Allianz Opt® by the company Rohm and Haas, the aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene/acrylic polymers sold under the name Joncryl® by the company Johnson Polymer or else the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR
• the composition may comprise an oily phase, and the film-forming polymer may be present in this oily phase.
• the polymer may then be in a dispersion or in solution.
• nonaqueous dispersions of lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of nonaqueous dispersions of polymer particles in one or more silicone and/or hydrocarbon-based oils and which can be surface-stabilized with at least one stabilizer, in particular a block, grafted or random polymer
• acrylic dispersions in isododecane for instance Mexomer PAP® from the company Chimex
• free-radical film-forming polymer is intended to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated, in particular ethylenically unsaturated, monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).
• the film-forming polymers of free-radical type may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
• the vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers.
• Monomers bearing an acid group that can be used include ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid.
• (Meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferably used, and more preferentially (meth)acrylic acid.
• esters of acid monomers are advantageously chosen from the esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also known as (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1-C30, preferably C1-C20, alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl (meth)acrylates, and hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
• alkyl (meth)acrylates in particular C1-C30, preferably C1-C20
• alkyl (meth)acrylates alkyl (meth)acrylates
• aryl (meth)acrylates in particular C6-C10 aryl (meth)acrylates
• hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
• alkyl (meth)acrylates mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate.
• hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
• aryl (meth)acrylates mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
• esters of (meth)acrylic acid that are particularly preferred are alkyl (meth)acrylates.
• the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. a part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
• amides of the acid monomers mention may, for example, be made of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular C2-C12 alkyl (meth)acrylamides.
• N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides mention may be made of N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t-octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
• the vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
• these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amides thereof, such as those mentioned above.
• vinyl esters mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
• styrene monomers mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methylstyrene.
• film-forming polycondensates mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, epoxy ester resins, and polyureas.
• the polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
• the polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by condensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
• the dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
• acids that may be mentioned include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
• These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or as a combination of at least two di
• the diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. Use is preferably made of a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol. Other polyols that may be used include glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane.
• the polyesteramides can be obtained in a manner analogous to the polyesters, by a polycondensation of diacids with diamines or aminoalcohols.
• Diamines that may be used include ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine.
• Monoethanolamine may be used as amino alcohol.
• the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a liposoluble polymer).
• the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally as a mixture with a non-volatile oil.
• liposoluble polymers By way of example of liposoluble polymers, mention may be made of copolymers of a vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based radical, containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (other than the vinyl ester already present), an ⁇ -olefin (containing from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (of which the alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based radical, containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group).
• a vinyl ester the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a linear or branched,
• These polymers may be crosslinked by means of crosslinking agents which can either be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate.
• crosslinking agents can either be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate.
• liposoluble film-forming polymers mention may be made of copolymers of a vinyl ester and at least one other monomer, which may be a vinyl ester, in particular vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate, an ⁇ -olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether, or an allyl or methallyl ester.
• a vinyl ester in particular vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate, an ⁇ -olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether, or an allyl or methallyl ester.
• liposoluble film-forming polymers mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters containing from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
• Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of polyvinyl stearate, of polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, and copolymers of polystearyl (meth)acrylate, of polyvinyl laurate, of polylauryl (meth)acrylate, it being possible for these poly(meth)acrylates to be crosslinked with the aid of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
• the liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are described in particular in application FR-A-2232303; they may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500 000 and preferably from 4000 to 200 000.
• liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still C3 to C20 alkene.
• C2-C20 alkenes such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose
• VP vinylpyrrolidone
• V vinylpyrrolidone
• VP copolymers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecane, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.
• PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
• silicone resins which are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.
• polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that are commercially available, mention may be made of those which are sold by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK, or by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L.
• Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethyl siloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the timethyl siloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu, and DC 749 and DC 593 by the company Dow Corning.
• TMS trimethyl siloxysilicate
• silicone resins such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes
• the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference Bio-PSA and described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,162,410
• silicone copolymers which result from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a diorganosiloxane as described in document WO 2004/073626.
• acrylic/silicone grafted copolymers having a vinyl, methacrylic or acrylic polymeric backbone, and organosiloxane or polyorganosiloxane pendant grafts.
• Such polymers are in particular described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,693,935, U.S. Pat. No. 4,981,903 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,981,902.
• these polymers comprise monomers A, C and, optionally, B, for which:
• X is a vinyl group which can copolymerize with the monomers A and B;
• Examples of monomers A are lower to intermediate esters of methacrylic acid and of linear- or branched-chain C1-C12 alcohols, styrene, vinyl esters, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, or acryloyl monomers.
• Examples of monomers B are polar acrylic or methacrylic monomers having at least one hydroxyl, amino, ester or ionic group (for instance quaternary ammoniums, the carboxylate salt or acids such as carboxylic acids, acrylic acids, or sulfonic acid or its salts).
• the monomer C is defined above.
• acrylic/silicone grafted copolymers mention may be made of those sold by 3M under the reference 3M Silicones Plus VS70 Dry Polymer®, having the INCI name: Polysilicone-6, or else KP-561® sold by Shin-Etsu and having the INCI name: Acrylates/Stearyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, or KP-562® sold by Shin-Etsu and having the INCI name: Acrylates/Behenyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer.
• the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear block ethylenic polymer which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being connected to one another via an intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block.
• Tg glass transition temperatures
• the first and second blocks of the block polymer are not compatible with one another.
• Such polymers are described, for example, in documents EP 1411069 or WO 04/028488.
• the film-forming polymer may be chosen from block or random polymers and/or copolymers comprising in particular polyurethanes, polyacrylics, silicones, fluoro polymers, butyl gums, ethylene copolymers, natural gums and polyvinyl alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
• the monomers of the block or random copolymers comprising at least one combination of monomers of which the polymer results in a glass transition temperature of less than ambient temperature (25° C.) can be chosen in particular from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, acrylic, methacrylic, isoprene, isobutene, a silicone, and mixtures thereof.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer chosen from vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer.
• the vinyl polymer may in particular have a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
• carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in the context of the present invention, represents a molecular structure having branched groups with high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction starting from the backbone bond.
• Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in the laid-open Japanese patent application Kokai 9-171 154.
• the vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP0963751 or, for example, the product TIB-4-200 sold by Dow Corning.
• Such systems are in particular partly described in documents WO 01/96 450 and GB 2 407 496 from Dow Corning.
• the compounds X and the compounds Y are silicone compounds.
• the compounds X and Y may be aminated or nonaminated.
• At least one of the compounds X and Y is a polymer of which the main chain is formed predominantly from organosiloxane units.
• silicone compounds mentioned hereinafter some may exhibit both film-forming and adhesive properties, according, for example, to their proportion of silicone or according to whether they are used as a mixture with a particular additive. It is consequently possible to modulate the film-forming properties or the adhesive properties of such compounds according to the use envisioned; this is in particular the case for “room temperature vulcanization” reactive elastomeric silicones.
• the compounds X and Y can react together at a temperature ranging between ambient temperature and 180° C.
• the compounds X and Y are capable of reacting together at ambient temperature (20 ⁇ 5° C.) and atmospheric pressure, or advantageously in the presence of a catalyst, via a hydrosilylation reaction or a condensation reaction, or a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide.
• the compounds X and Y react by hydrosilylation in the presence of a catalyst.
• the compounds X and Y are chosen from silicone compounds capable of reacting by hydrosilylation in the presence of a catalyst; in particular, the compound X is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising units of formula (I) described below, and the compound Y is chosen from organosiloxanes comprising alkylhydrogenosiloxane units of formula (III) described below.
• the compound X is a polydimethylsiloxane comprising vinyl end groups
• the compound Y is a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane
• R′ is an unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a vinyl group.
• R represents an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or else a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl radical, and R′ is a vinyl group.
• compositions comprising the compound X and/or Y may also comprise an additional reactive compound such as:
• the hydrosilylation reaction is carried out in the presence of a catalyst which may be present with one or other of the compounds X or Y or be present in isolation.
• this catalyst may be present in the composition in an encapsulated form if the two compounds X and Y, of which it must bring about the interaction, are present in this same composition, in a nonencapsulated form, or, conversely, it may be present therein in a nonencapsulated form if at least one of the compounds X and Y is present in the composition in an encapsulated form.
• the catalyst is preferably platinum-based or tin-based.
• the catalyst may be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it.
• the compounds X and/or Y may be combined with polymerization inhibitors or retarders, and more particularly catalyst inhibitors.
• polymerization inhibitors or retarders and more particularly catalyst inhibitors.
• ionic salts such as sodium acetate
• the compound X may represent from 0.1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it, preferably from 1% to 90%, and better still from 5% to 80%.
• the compound Y may represent from 0.1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80%.
• composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer which promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.
• a plasticizer may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one ionic surfactant.
• the surfactant may be lipophilic and/or hydrophilic, used alone or in combination.
• the surfactant may be chosen from anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants.
• the surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight.
• the ionic surfactants are chosen from cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, carboxylates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, alkyl sulfoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglycoside, salts of C16-C30 fatty acids deriving from amines, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, phosphoric esters and their salts, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfates, isethionates and N-acylisethionates, acylglutamates, soybean derivatives, citrates, proline derivatives, lactylates, sarcosinates, sulfonates and glycinates.
• ionic surfactant is an anionic surfactant, it is chosen from:
• compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, or else silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical, and mixtures thereof.
• amphoteric surfactants for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate
• amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, al
• compositions according to the invention also comprise an amphiphilic silicone elastomer comprising polyoxyalkylene, in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene, hydrophilic groups, blocks or grafts, or polyglycerol hydrophilic groups, blocks or grafts, and possibly having, in addition, alkyl side groups, in particular lauryl side groups, especially a polyglycerolated silicone elastomer.
• an amphiphilic silicone elastomer comprising polyoxyalkylene, in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene, hydrophilic groups, blocks or grafts, or polyglycerol hydrophilic groups, blocks or grafts, and possibly having, in addition, alkyl side groups, in particular lauryl side groups, especially a polyglycerolated silicone elastomer.
• an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane that can be obtained by means of a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
• polyglycerolated silicone elastomers use may be made of those sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 and KSG-840 by the company Shin Etsu.
• physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin, the skin integuments (such as, for example, hair, nails) or the lips.
• the physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support to which the composition must be applied, and also to the way in which the composition must be packaged.
• This medium may comprise at least one silicone or organic volatile solvent, this solvent preferably being compatible with the resins a) and b) and compatible with cosmetic use, as specified above.
• composition according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of powders (loose or compact), an anhydrous composition, a dispersion, an emulsion, such as in particular a water/oil or water/wax, oil/water, multiple or wax/water emulsion, or else in the form of a gel.
• a composition of the invention is preferably an emulsion, in particular a direct or inverse emulsion, or an anhydrous composition.
• a dispersion may be carried out in the aqueous phase or in the oily phase.
• An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase.
• Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) or direct (O/W) emulsion, or else a multiple (W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsion.
• An anhydrous composition is a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and which is in particular free of water. As appropriate, such small amounts of water may in particular be introduced by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts thereof.
• composition according to the invention may be in the form of a fluid, for example a pasty or liquid fluid. It may also be in the form of a loose or compact powder, of a soft paste or of a cream. For example, it may be an oil-in-water, water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, a solid emulsion, in particular of water-in-oil type, a solid or soft gel, which is in particular anhydrous, in the form of a loose or compacted powder, and even in two-phase form.
• the composition according to the invention is generally in the form of a composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, for example of a foundation, in particular to be applied to the face or the neck, of a concealer product, of a complexion corrector, of a tinted cream, of a face powder, of a lipstick, of a lip balm or of a body makeup composition.
• composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase comprises water.
• a water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents which are water-miscible (at ambient temperature ⁇ 25° C.), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols containing in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl ethers or mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
• organic solvents which are water-miscible (at ambient temperature ⁇ 25°
• the aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
• a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 50%, and more particularly from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• a composition of the invention may be anhydrous.
• An anhydrous composition may comprise less than 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular less than 3%, especially less than 2%, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• an anhydrous composition may be devoid of water.
• a cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase.
• composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, in particular at least one oil as mentioned above.
• oil is intended to mean any fatty substance which is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.
• a composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1% to 90%, in particular from 5% to 80%, in particular from 10% to 70%, and more particularly from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
• the oils may be volatile or non-volatile as defined above.
• the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may contain only volatile oils.
• composition according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics industry, such as vitamins, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, or mixtures thereof.
• ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics industry such as vitamins, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, or mixtures thereof.
• a composition according to the invention may in particular be in the form of a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin or the lips, in particular a foundation.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:
• the container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a sachet or a carton.
• the closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cap, a tear-off strip or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body attached to the container and a cover cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member for selectively closing the container, in particular a pump, a valve or a flap valve.
• the container may be combined with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles maintained by a twisted wire.
• a twisted brush is described in particular in U.S. Pat. No. 4,887,622.
• It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application members, obtained in particular by molding. Such combs are described, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529.
• the applicator may be in the form of a fine brush, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380.
• the applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or of elastomer, a felt or a spatula.
• the applicator may be free (tuft or sponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,492,426.
• the applicator may be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
• the product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
• the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a pad, and placed (individually or as several together) in a box or in a sachet.
• an impregnated support in particular in the form of a wipe or a pad
• Such a support incorporating the product is described, for example, in application WO 01/03538.
• the closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
• the coupling between the closing member and the container is done other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening, gripping, welding, adhesive bonding or by magnetic attraction.
• click-fastening is intended to mean in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular the closing member, followed by a return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord.
• the container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material.
• thermoplastic materials mention may be made of polypropylene or polyethylene.
• the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular of glass or metal (or alloy).
• the container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, especially in the form of a tube or a tubular bottle.
• the container may comprise means for distributing or facilitating the distribution of the composition.
• the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to a positive pressure inside the container, this positive pressure being caused by elastic (or nonelastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
• said product may be driven out by a piston mechanism.
• the container may comprise a mechanism, in particular a rack mechanism, a threaded-rod mechanism or a helical groove mechanism, capable of moving a stick in the direction of said aperture.
• a mechanism is described, for example, in patent FR 2 806 273 or in patent FR 2 775 566.
• Such a mechanism for a liquid product is described in patent FR 2 727 609.
• the container may consist of a carton with a base delimiting at least one housing containing the composition, and a lid, in particular articulated on the base, and capable of at least partially covering said base.
• a carton is described, for example, in application WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.
• the container may be equipped with a drainer arranged in the region of the aperture of the container.
• a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and optionally the rod to which it may be securely fastened.
• a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
• the composition may be at atmospheric pressure inside the container (at room temperature) or pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant gas (aerosol).
• a propellant gas as an aerosol
• the container is equipped with a valve (of the type used for aerosols).
• composition of the invention may be in the form of a care product or preferably a makeup product, which is in particular colored, for the skin, more specifically the skin of the face, for instance a foundation, a face powder, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a blusher, a loose or compacted powder, or else a body makeup product, for instance a semi-permanent tattooing product, or a lip makeup product, for instance a lipstick, a lip pencil or a lip gloss, optionally having nontherapeutic treatment or care properties.
• a makeup product which is in particular colored, for the skin, more specifically the skin of the face, for instance a foundation, a face powder, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a blusher, a loose or compacted powder, or else a body makeup product, for instance a semi-permanent tattooing product, or a lip makeup product, for instance a lipstick, a lip pencil or a lip gloss, optionally having nontherapeutic treatment or care properties.
• the composition according to the invention is in the form of a foundation.
• composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics field.
• the MQ resin was produced according to the techniques described by Daudt in U.S. Pat. No. 2,676,182.
• Propyl T resin a propyl silsesquioxane resin at 74.8% by weight in toluene.
• the propyl silsesquioxane resin was obtained by hydrolysis of propyl trichlorosilane.
• results obtained show the unexpected miscibility of the MQ resin and the propyl T resin, based on the clarity of the mixture without solvent and the increasing hardness as the amount of MQ resin increases.
• the mixture of resins described in example 13 of application WO 2007/145765, in which the weight ratio between the MQ resin and the propyl T resin is 60/40, is used.
• CI 77491 & 2.5 Disodium stearoyl glutamate & aluminum hydroxide
• the wax and the pigments are heated until the wax has melted, then the mixture is homogenized, the mixture is left to cool to ambient temperature (25° C.) and then the mixture of resins (phase A) is added.
• a gel is prepared by mixing the bentone, the propylene carbonate and the isododecane (phase B) and then this mixture is added to phase A at ambient temperature and the whole is passed through the triple roll mill.
• the pigments and the wax are heated until the wax has melted, then the mixture is homogenized.
• the silicone oil and the mixture of resins are mixed at ambient temperature (25° C.), then this mixture is added to the wax/pigments mixture at ambient temperature, and the whole is passed through the triple roll mill.
• compositions were prepared (W/O emulsions).
• Composition A (invention B (invention C (comparative NAI coating) PF coating) Si coating) INCI name Composition (%) A1 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (Abil EM90 from the 2.1 2.1 2.1 company Goldschmidt) Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan GI34 ® by the company 2.8 2.8 2.8 Evonik Goldschmidt) Hexyl Laurate (Cetiol A from Cognis) 2.1 2.1 2.1 Tristearin and Acetylated Glycol Stearate (Unitwix from 1 1 1 the company United Guardian) Isododecane 8.25 8.5 8.5 A2 Isododecane 3.5 3.5 3.5 60/40 MQ/propyl T resin according to example 1-h 8 8 8 described above A3 Isododecane 8.5 8.25 8.25 Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate 5 5 5 and Isod
• phase A3 The constituents of phase A3 are weighed out.
• the mixture is passed through a triple roll mill.
• the constituents of phase A1 are then weighed into the main beaker and it is placed in a waterbath (75-80° C.).
• the constituents of phase A2 are added. After stirring for 5 minutes on a Moritz stirrer at 1500 rpm, the mixture is cooled to ambient temperature.
• A3 is incorporated into the phase A1+A2, with stirring on a Moritz stirrer at 1500 rpm.
• phase A4 The constituents of phase A4 are then added successively, while keeping the same stirring.
• phase B The constituents of phase B are weighed out. Phase B is brought to boiling, until complete dissolution of the constituents. Phase B is cooled to 50° C.
• Phase B is then trickled into the phase A1+A2+A3+A4, with stirring on a Moritz stirrer at 3200 rpm. The stirring is maintained for a minimum of 10 minutes.
• a colorimetric measurement of the skin is carried out before and after applying makeup by measuring the red, yellow and brightness indices, respectively a*, b*, L*.
• an image is taken using a chromasphere, with a definition of 410 ⁇ 410 pixels.
• the results are expressed in the following way.
• the color is quantified by the red, yellow and brightness indices analyzed by the camera (respectively a*, b*, L*).
• the staying power of the color is calculated by the variation in these variables after the makeup has been worn for 3 hours (deltaE94).
• the measurements are carried out on a panel of individuals who are kept in an air-conditioned (22° C.+/ ⁇ 2° C.) waiting room for 15 min before the beginning of the test. They remove their makeup and an image of one of their cheeks is acquired using the chromasphere with a definition of 410 ⁇ 410 pixels. This image makes it possible to measure the color at T0 before applying makeup. Approximately 100 mg of cosmetic composition are then weighed out into a watch glass and are applied with the bare fingers to the half of the face on which the T0 measurement was carried out.
• an image of the made-up cheek is acquired using the chromasphere. This image makes it possible to measure the color immediately after applying makeup (Timm). The models then return to the air-conditioned room for 3 h. Finally, an image of the made-up cheek after waiting for 3 h is acquired using the chromasphere. This image makes it possible to measure the color after wearing makeup for 3 h (T3h).
• the results are expressed by calculating the difference (Timm ⁇ T0), which measures the effect of the makeup.
• the difference (T3h ⁇ Timm) measuring the staying power of this effect is then calculated.
• Each image obtained using the camera is made use of in color.
• the color is quantified by the red and yellow indices, the brightness and the color difference (respectively a*, b*, L and deltaE).
• the deltaE, dE or else ⁇ E is defined as a measurement of difference between two colors.
• the formula established in 1976 is shown below:
• the mattness effect and staying power of the mattness of the application, to the skin of a panel of individuals, of the W/O emulsion described above is evaluated.
• the mattness and the staying power of the mattness can be measured by means of the protocol described hereinafter.
• the mattness of a region of the skin, for example of the face is measured using a polarimetric camera, which is a black and white polarimetric imaging system, with which images are acquired in parallel (P) and crossed (C) polarized light.
• P ⁇ C a black and white polarimetric imaging system
• the measurements are carried out on a panel of individuals who are kept in an air-conditioned (22° C.+/ ⁇ 2° C.) waiting room for 15 min before the beginning of the test. They remove their makeup and an image of one of their cheeks is acquired with the polarimetric camera. This image makes it possible to measure the shine at T0 before applying makeup. Approximately 100 mg of the composition described above are then weighed out into a watch glass and are applied with the bare fingers to the half of the face on which the T0 measurement was carried out.
• an image of the made-up cheek is acquired with the polarimetric camera. This image makes it possible to measure the shine immediately after applying makeup (Timm). The models then return to the air-conditioned room for 3 h. Finally, an image of the made-up cheek after waiting 3 h is acquired with the polarimetric camera. This image makes it possible to measure the shine after wearing makeup for 3 h (T3h). The results are expressed by calculating the difference (Timm ⁇ T0), which measures the effect of the makeup. A negative value means that the makeup reduces the shine of the skin and that it is thus mattifying.
• the difference (T3h ⁇ Timm) measuring the staying power of this effect is then calculated.
• the value obtained should be as low as possible, which means that the mattness of the makeup does not change over time.
• a colorimetric measurement of the skin before and after applying makeup is carried out by measuring the means for the planes a*(green-red), b*(blue-yellow), L*(brightness). For each woman, an image is taken using a chromasphere with a definition of 410 ⁇ 410 pixels. More specifically, the measurements are carried out on a panel of individuals who are kept in an air-conditioned (22° C.+/ ⁇ 2° C.) waiting room for 15 min before the beginning of the test. They remove their makeup and an image of one of their cheeks is acquired using the chromasphere with a definition of 410 ⁇ 410 pixels. This image makes it possible to measure the color at T0 before applying makeup. Approximately 100 mg of cosmetic composition are then weighed out into a watch glass and are applied with the bare fingers to the half of the face on which the measurement was carried out at T0.
• an image of the made-up cheek is acquired using the chromasphere. This image makes it possible to measure the color immediately after applying makeup (Timm). The models then return to the air-conditioned room for 3 h. Finally, an image of the made-up cheek after waiting for 3 h is acquired using the chromasphere. This image makes it possible to measure the color after wearing makeup for 3 h (T3h).
• Each image obtained using the camera is made use of by coxellography.
• the standard deviation of each monochrome plane is calculated.
• the product of the three standard deviations is equal to the coxellographic index. This parameter is used for the statistical calculations. The more uniform the skin, the lower the standard deviation.
• the coxellographic index changes in the same way since it is the product of the standard deviations of the three planes a*, b* and L*.
• compositions A B C (NAI coating) (PF coating) (Si coating) Mattness staying power ++ ++ + performance Color staying power ++++ ++++ ++++ performance Uniformity staying power ++++ +++ +++ performance
• compositions exhibit a matting and uniforming effect that is satisfactory, or even very satisfactory for the NAI pigments.
• compositions are reproduced according to this example, in which compositions the 60/40 mixture of MQ/propyl T resins according to example 1-h described above is replaced with the mixture of MQ/propyl T resins according to example 1-f described above, comprising an MQ/propyl T weight ratio of approximately 50/50, and similar results are obtained with said compositions.

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