Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

• the invention relates to a method for restructuring keratinic fibers, in which method a keratin fiber is brought into contact with cystine and with at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
• the invention further relates to preparations for application in said methods.
• Keratinic fibers, in particular hair have great significance in everyday life as a permanent constituent of the human body and as an essential constituent of human clothing and domestic textiles.
• Treatment with washing, cleaning, styling, and dyeing products for cleaning and conformation purposes, and exposure to environmental influences such as ozone, salt water, chlorinated water, IR, UV, and thermal radiation (blow-drying) result over time in cumulative damage to the fibers and thus to a diminution in their quality.
• both the cleaning of hair with shampoos and decorative conformation of a hairstyle by dyeing or permanent-waving are interventions that influence the natural structure and properties of hair.
• the wet and dry combability, stability, fullness, gloss, and tactility of hair for example, may be unsatisfactory after such a treatment.
• the retention of the dye on the hair may furthermore be unsatisfactory in a context of frequent hair washing, thus resulting in a gradual bleeding of the color.
• Such conditioning agents influence the natural structure and properties of the hair.
• the wet and dry combability of the hair and its stability and fullness can be optimized, or the hair can be protected from increasing splitting.
• the hair is treated, usually in the form of a rinse, with specific active substances, for example quaternary ammonium salts or specific polymers.
• specific active substances for example quaternary ammonium salts or specific polymers.
• this treatment improves the hair's combability, stability and fullness, and decreases splitting.
• Conditioning additives and film-formers are often also added to permanent-wave agents, but without thereby greatly improving the hair structure.
• Used for this purpose are high-molecular-weight polymers that are absorbed onto the uppermost layer of the skin and hair and produce there an external, subjectively perceptible improvement in hair softness.
• the structural damage in the interior of the hair however, which is caused in the case of permanent waves especially by the reduction process, cannot thereby be decreased, since because of their size the substances cannot penetrate into the hair.
• the duration of the effects of the structure-improved additives is moreover often unsatisfactory, since they merely adhere to the surface of the hair.
• EP-A 1174112 discloses hair treatment agents that, in addition to an organic acid, contain as further mandatory constituents an organic solvent, a cationic surfactant, and a higher alcohol, and serve to repair pores in hairs.
• the object of the present invention was to make available a method for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, which method exhibits advantages over the existing art and enables a sufficient effectiveness and duration of effect.
• the method was intended not only to be implementable under fiber-protecting conditions, but also to be physiologically unobjectionable, i.e. in particular to dispense with the use of toxicologically objectionable substances such as radical formers.
• the object of the present invention is achieved by a method in which keratinic fibers are brought into contact with cystine and with at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
• a first subject of the present invention is therefore a method for restructuring keratinic fibers, in which method a keratin fiber is brought into contact with cystine and with at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
• Keratinic fibers are to be understood according to the present invention as furs, wool, feathers, silk, and hairs, but in particular human hair.
• the internal and external structure of keratinic fibers can be modified, in other words that a restructuring of keratinic fibers is made possible.
• “Restructuring” is understood for purposes of the present invention as, in particular, a fiber reinforcement, an increase in breaking load, and/or a decrease in the damage to keratinic fibers resulting from a wide variety of influences.
• the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role here.
• Restructured fibers may be notable, for example, for elevated breaking load, elevated strength, elevated elasticity, and/or elevated volume, which can be manifested in a hairstyle, for example, as greater fullness. They may furthermore exhibit improved gloss, improved softness, and/or easier combability.
• the method according to the present invention serves to strengthen, protect, and repair keratinic fibers, and is very particularly suitable for improving hair structure and/or for reinforcing human hair.
• fiber properties such as strength, elasticity, or volume are positively influenced, in the direction of an increase in those properties.
• the method is furthermore suitable for styling purposes, such as shaping and shape retention.
• the method according to the present invention is further suitable for protecting fibers from the damaging influence of light.
• the method according to the present invention requires no toxicologically objectionable substances such as, for example, radical formers or radicals that occur as intermediaries.
• a “dicarboxylic acid” is to be understood, for purposes of the invention, as a compound having at least two carboxyl groups, i.e., for example, also including a compound having three or more carboxyl groups.
• the dicarboxylic acid used in the method according to the present invention contains two and no more, i.e. exactly two, carboxyl groups.
• succinic acid is used as a dicarboxylic acid.
• cystine and the at least one dicarboxylic acid are used at a weight ratio from 99 to 1 to 1 to 99, preferably 10 to 1 to 1 to 10, and in particular 2 to 1 to 1 to 2.
• a further subject of the invention is the use of a combination of cystine and at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, in particular of hair, the restructuring encompassing in particular a fiber reinforcement.
• the present invention furthermore relates to a fiber, in particular a keratinic fiber, that is obtainable by way of the method described above.
• the temperature upon implementation of contact between the dicarboxylic acid and the fiber is preferably in a range from approximately 15 to approximately 40° C.
• contact between the fiber and cystine and the dicarboxylic acid can be accomplished in such a way that further substances are additionally added. These substances are preferably selected so that they form a carrier, suitable for treatment of the fiber, for the cystine and/or the dicarboxylic acid.
• the implementation of contact can be accomplished in such a way that the fiber is brought into contact successively with at least two preparations, of which one contains cystine and a further contains at least one dicarboxylic acid.
• the method according to the present invention is preferably carried out so that a fiber is brought into contact with a preparation that contains both cystine and at least one dicarboxylic acid.
• the substances present in the preparation in addition to cystine and/or the dicarboxylic acid preferably form a composition of the kind commonly known to one skilled in the art of hair cosmetics as a “waving agent.”
• the carriers for the preparations utilized in the method according to the present invention can be solid, liquid, gelled, or pasty. They are preferably selected from aqueous systems, natural or synthetic oils, water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions. Systems of this kind, and methods for their manufacture, are known in the existing art, to which reference is herewith made.
• the preparations can be formulated as a creme, gel, or liquid. It is furthermore possible to package the agents in the form of foam aerosols that are loaded, with a liquefied gas such as, for example, propane/butane mixtures, nitrogen, CO 2 , air, NO 2 , dimethyl ether, chlorofluorocarbon propellants, or mixtures thereof, into aerosol containers having a foam valve.
• a liquefied gas such as, for example, propane/butane mixtures, nitrogen, CO 2 , air, NO 2 , dimethyl ether, chlorofluorocarbon propellants, or mixtures thereof
• the individual components of the method according to the present invention are preferably utilized as a creme, gel, or liquid.
• the preparations utilized according to the present invention can furthermore be present in two or more phases.
• Two-phase and multiple-phase systems are systems in which at least two separate, continuous phases are present.
• an aqueous phase and one or more, for example two, mutually immiscible nonaqueous phases can be present separately from one another.
• the subject matter of the invention is furthermore a preparation for use in the method according to the present invention.
• the preparation is preferably aqueous and contains
• Surfactants are suitable as active substances.
• the term “surfactants” is understood as surface-active substances that form adsorption layers at surface and interfaces, or can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
• anionic surfactants made up of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
• amphoteric surfactants that carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
• cationic surfactants that comprise a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic radical
• nonionic surfactants which comprise no charges but have strong dipole moments, and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. More-detailed definitions and properties of surfactants may be found in H.-D. Dörfler, Grenz inhabit- und Kolloidchemie [Interfacial and colloid chemistry], VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1994. The definition of terms reproduced above is found on pp. 190 ff. of that document.
• anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are suitable in principle as anionic surfactants in preparations according to the present invention. These substances are characterized by a water-solubility-creating anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group having approximately 8 to 30 C atoms. Glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, and hydroxyl groups can additionally be contained in the molecule.
• suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium, and ammonium as well as mono-, di-, and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group:
• Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates, and ethercarboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, succinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group, and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates, and protein fatty acid condensates.
• Zwitterionic surfactants refers to those surface-active compounds that contain in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one —COO ( ⁇ ) or —SO 3 ( ⁇ ) group.
• Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate.
• a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the
• Ampholytic surfactants are understood to be those surface-active compounds that contain in the molecule, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 alkyl or acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO 3 H group, and are capable of forming internal salts.
• ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkyl-aminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, having in each case 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
• Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocalkylaminopropionate, cocacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C 12-18 acylsarcosine.
• Nonionic surfactants contain as a hydrophilic group, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of a polyol and polyglycol ether group.
• a hydrophilic group for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of a polyol and polyglycol ether group.
• Such compounds are, for example:
• alkylene oxide addition products with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having respectively 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide per mol fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proven to be preferred further nonionic surfactants.
• Preparations having outstanding properties are likewise obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
• the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched. Primary linear aliphatic radicals, and those methyl-branched in the 2-position, are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl, and 1-stearyl. 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, and 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When so-called “oxo alcohols” are used as the initial materials, compounds having an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
• the sugar surfactants are also very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. These can be contained in the preparations utilized according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.1-20 wt %, based on the entire preparation. Quantities from 0.5-15 wt % are preferred, and quantities from 0.5-7.5 wt % are very particularly preferred.
• the compounds having alkyl groups used as surfactants can in each case be uniform substances. It is generally preferred, however, to begin with natural vegetable or animal raw materials when producing these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths, dependent on the particular material, are obtained.
• both products having a “normal” homolog distribution and those having a restricted homolog distribution can be used.
• a “normal” homolog distribution is understood as mixtures of homologs that are obtained upon the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali-metal hydroxides, or alkali-metal alcoholates as catalysts.
• Restricted homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline-earth metal salts of ethercarboxylic acids, or alkaline-earth metal oxides, hydroxides, or alcoholates are used as catalysts.
• the use of products having a restricted homolog distribution can be preferred.
• the preparation can contain a complex-forming agent, for example EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid, a phosphonic acid, or mixtures of these substances.
• a complex-forming agent for example EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid, a phosphonic acid, or mixtures of these substances.
• Suitable as further active substances are polyols such as, for example, glycerol and partial glycerol ether, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanedioles, for example 1,2-pentanediol, hexanedioles, for example 1,2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol, dodecanediol, in particular 1,2-dodecanediol, neopentyl glycol, and ethylene glycol.
• 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, and 1,3-butanediol have proven to be particularly well suited.
• polyols are contained in the preparations utilized according to the present invention in quantities preferably from 1 to 10, in particular 2 to 10 wt %, based on the entire preparation.
• “Limited miscibility with water” is understood to mean alcohols that are soluble in water at 20° C. at a proportion of no more than 10 wt % based on the mass of water.
• Fatty substances can be used as further active substances.
• “Fatty substances” are to be understood as fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes that can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
• Fatty acids that can be used are linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in quantities from 0.1 to 15 wt % based on the entire agent.
• Fatty alcohols that can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C 6 -C 30 carbon atoms, in quantities from 0.1 to 30 wt % based on the entire preparation.
• Natural and synthetic cosmetic oily substances that can be utilized according to the present invention as an active ingredient are, in particular:
• the quantity of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oily substances used in the preparations utilized according to the present invention is usually 0.1-30 wt % based on the entire preparation, preferably 0.1-20 wt %, and in particular 0.1-15 wt %.
• the total quantity of oil and fat components in the preparations according to the present invention is usually 0.1-75 wt % based on the entire preparation. Quantities from 0.1 to 35 wt % are preferred according to the present invention.
• polymers are used advantageously in the context of the method according to the present invention.
• the preparations utilized according to the present invention therefore have polymers added to them, both cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, and nonionic polymers having proven effective.
• “Cationic polymers” are to be understood as polymers that comprise in the main chain and/or side chain a group that can be “temporarily” or “permanently” cationic. According to the present invention, those polymers that comprise a cationic group regardless of the pH of the preparation are referred to as “permanently cationic.” These are, as a rule, polymers that contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bound via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain made up of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their derivatives, have proven to be particularly suitable.
• R 1 —H or —CH 3
• R 1 denotes a methyl group
• R 3 and R 4 denote methyl groups
• m has a value of 2.
• Possibilities as physiologically acceptable counterions X ⁇ are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions, and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate, and acetate ions.
• halide ions in particular chloride, are preferred.
• a particularly suitable homopolymer is the poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (crosslinked, if desired) having the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
• the crosslinking can be accomplished, if desired, with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene-bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose, or glucose.
• Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred cross-linking agent.
• the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion that should comprise a polymer proportion not less than 30 wt %.
• a nonaqueous polymer dispersion that should comprise a polymer proportion not less than 30 wt %.
• Such polymer dispersions are obtainable commercially under the designations Salcare® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer proportion, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecylpolyoxypropylenepolyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)), and Salcare® SC 96 (approx.
• Copolymers having monomer units according to formula (II) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1-4 alkyl esters, and methacrylic acid C 1-4 alkyl esters as nonionogenic monomer units. Of these nonionogenic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred.
• These copolymers as well, as in the case of the homopolymers described above, can be crosslinked.
• a copolymer preferred according to the present invention is the crosslinked copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride.
• Such copolymers, in which the monomers are present at a weight ratio of approximately 20:80, are commercially obtainable as an approx. 50% nonaqueous polymer dispersion under the designation Salcare® SC 92.
• Additional preferred cationic polymers are, for example:
• polymers known under the designations Polyquaternium-24 can similarly be used as cationic polymers.
• copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as those available as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat® ASCP 1011, Gafquat® HS 110, Luviquat® 8155, and Luviquat® MS 370.
• Additional cationic polymers usable according to the present invention are the so-called “temporarily cationic” polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group that is present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and therefore cationically. Chitosan and its derivatives, such as those readily available commercially, for example, under the commercial designations Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF, Kytamer® PC, and Chitolam® NB/101, are, for example, preferred.
• Cationic polymers that are preferred for use according to the present invention are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer® JR 400, Hydagen® HCMF, and Kytamer® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE Patent 44 13 686, and polymers of the Polyquaternium-37 type.
• anionic polymers that can be utilized in the preparations of the method according to the present invention are anionic polymers that comprise carboxylate and/or sulfonate groups.
• anionic monomers of which such polymers are made up are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid anhydride, and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
• the acid groups can be present entirely or partially as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
• Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
• Anionic polymers that contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as a sole monomer or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, in which context the sulfonic acid group can be present entirely or partially as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
• One such homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is available commercially, for example, under the designation Rheothik® 11-80.
• copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionogenic monomer are preferred.
• anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
• Preferred nonionogenic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ether, and vinyl ester.
• Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid group-containing monomers.
• a particularly preferred anionic copolymer is made up of 70 to 55 mol % acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol % 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, in which context the sulfonic acid group is present entirely or partially as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono-, or triethanolammonium salt.
• This copolymer can also be present in crosslinked form, polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyoxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythrite, and methylene bisacrylamide preferably being used as crosslinking agents.
• polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyoxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythrite, and methylene bisacrylamide preferably being used as crosslinking agents.
• anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythrite, of sucrose, and of propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are obtainable commercially, for example, under the trademark Carbopol®.
• Copolymers of maleic acid anhydride and methylvinyl ether are also well-suited polymers.
• a maleic acid/methylvinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is obtainable commercially under the designation Stabileze® QM.
• Amphoteric polymers can furthermore be utilized as polymers in all aqueous preparations of the method according to the present invention.
• the term “amphoteric polymers” encompasses both those polymers that contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free —COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, and zwitterionic polymers that contain quaternary ammonium groups and —COO ⁇ or —SO 3 ⁇ groups in the molecule, and those polymers that contain —COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
• amphopolymer usable according to the present invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the name Amphomer®, which represents a copolymer of tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide, and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and their simple esters.
• Amphomer® represents a copolymer of tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide, and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and their simple esters.
• Amphoteric polymers that are preferred for use are those polymerizates that are made up substantially of
• R 1 and R 2 independently of one another, denote hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 , and R 5 , independently of one another, denote alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is a whole number from 2 to 5, and A ( ⁇ ) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid; and
• R 6 and R 7 independently of one another, are hydrogen or methyl groups.
• Nonionogenic polymers can furthermore be contained in all aqueous preparations of the method according to the present invention. It can be preferred to utilize these in preparation (O).
• Suitable nonionogenic polymers are, for example:
• the preparations that are utilized to contain multiple, in particular two, different polymers of identical charge, and/or respectively one ionic and one amphoteric and/or nonionic polymer.
• the polymers are contained in the preparations utilized according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 10 wt %, based on the entire preparation. Quantities from 0.1 to 5, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt %, are particularly preferred.
• the preparations utilized according to the present invention can furthermore contain protein hydrolysates and/or, in addition to cystine, further amino acids and their derivatives.
• Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by the acid-, base-, or enzyme-catalyzed breakdown of proteins.
• the term “protein hydrolysates” is also understood according to the present invention to mean total hydrolysates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives, as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
• Polymers constructed from amino acids and amino-acid derivatives are also to be understood under the term “protein hydrolysates” according to the present invention. Included among the latter are, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
• Examples of compounds usable according to the present invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine, or D/L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
• ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid, or hippuric acid, can of course also be used according to the present invention.
• the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates usable according to the present invention is between 75 (the molecular weight of glycine) and 200,000; preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 dalton, and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 dalton.
• protein hydrolysates of both plant and animal origin, or of marine or synthetic origin can be used.
• Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts.
• Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), Sericin (Pentapharm), and Kerasol® (Croda).
• protein hydrolysates of plant origin e.g. soy-, almond-, bean-, potato-, and wheat-protein hydrolysates
• Such products are obtainable, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), and Crotein® (Croda).
• protein hydrolysates as such is preferred, it is also optionally possible to use, instead of them, amino-acid mixtures obtained in different fashion. It is likewise possible to use derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed, for example, under the designations Lamepon® (Cognis), Lexein® (Inolex), Crolastin® (Croda), Crosilk® (Croda), or Crotein® (Croda).
• the protein hydrolysates or their derivatives are contained in the preparations utilized according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.1 to 10 wt %, based on the entire preparation. Quantities from 0.1 to 5 wt % are particularly preferred.
• 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and/or its derivatives in the preparations of the method according to the present invention.
• the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts are preferred, in which context the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups.
• the sodium salt is very particularly preferred.
• the quantities used in the preparations according to the present invention are 0.05 to 10 wt % based on the entire preparation, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt %, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt %.
• vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors, and their derivatives have likewise proven advantageous.
• vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors that are usually allocated to the A, B, C, E, F, and H groups are preferred according to the present invention.
• vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
• ⁇ -Carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
• Suitable vitamin A components according to the present invention are, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol, as well as its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate.
• the preparations utilized according to the present invention contain the vitamin A component preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 1 wt %, based on the entire preparation.
• the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, among others:
• the preparations utilized according to the present invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E, and H.
• Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives, and nicotinic acid amide and biotin, are particularly preferred.
• plant extracts can be used in the preparations of the method according to the present invention.
• Extracts are usually produced by extraction of the whole plants. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from blossoms and/or leaves of the plants.
• Especially preferred according to the present invention are extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, hamamelis, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossoms, almond, aloe vera, pine needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi fruit, melon, orange, grapefruit, salvia, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's-smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, restharrow, coltsfoot, hibiscus, meristem, ginseng, and ginger root.
• the extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi fruit, and melon are very particularly suitable for the use according to the present invention.
• Water, alcohol, and mixtures thereof can be utilized as extraction media for producing the aforesaid plant extracts.
• the preferred alcohols are the lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extraction medium and mixed with water.
• Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol at a ratio from 1:10 to 10:1 have proven particularly suitable.
• the plant extracts can be used according to the present invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain approx. 2 to 80 wt % active substance and, as solvent, the extraction medium or extraction medium mixture used to obtain them.
• hydroxycarboxylic acids and in this context in turn, in particular, the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy-, and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, as well as the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy-, and polyhydroxydi-, tri-, and polycarboxylic acids.
• the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters, as well as mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters and also polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, can be very particularly preferred.
• Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid.
• hydroxycarboxylic acid esters that are suitable in principle are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, saccharic acid, mucic acid, or glucuronic acid.
• the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred in this context. Esters of this type are available commercially, e.g. under the trademark Cosmacol® of EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
• Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polytartaric acid and their esters.
• emulsifiers are used in the preparations of the method according to the present invention.
• Emulsifiers cause the formation, at the phase interface, of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers that prevent the dispersed droplets from coalescing and therefore stabilize the emulsion.
• Emulsions are therefore, like surfactants, constructed from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic molecule.
• Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O/W emulsions
• hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W/O emulsions.
• An “emulsion” is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of one liquid in another liquid, with the expenditure of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
• the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the respective external phase, and on the fineness of the emulsion particles. More-detailed definitions and properties of surfactants may be found in H.-D. Dörfler, Grenz vom- und Kolloidchemie [Interfacial and colloid chemistry], VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1994.
• Emulsifiers usable according to the present invention are, for example:
• the preparations according to the present invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in quantities from 0.1 to 25 wt %, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt %, based on the entire preparation.
• the preparations according to the present invention can preferably contain at least one nonionogenic emulsifier having an HLB value from 8 to 18, according to the definitions set forth in the Römpp-Lexikon Chemie [Römpp chemical dictionary] (J. Falbe, M. Regitz, eds.), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York (1997), page 1764.
• Nonionogenic emulsifiers having an HLB value from 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the present invention.
• Heterocyclic compounds such as, for example, derivatives of imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine, and piperazine can be used as further active substances.
• derivatives of these compounds such as, for example, the C 1-4 alkyl derivatives, C 1-4 hydroxyalkyl derivatives, and C 1-4 aminoalkyl derivatives.
• Preferred substituents, which can be positioned both on carbon atoms and on nitrogen atoms of the heterocyclic ring systems, are methyl, ethyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, and ⁇ -aminoethyl groups. These derivatives preferably contain one or two of these substituents.
• Further imidazole derivatives preferred according to the present invention are biotin, hydantoin, and benzimidazole.
• the mono- and dialkylimidazoles, biotin, and hydantoin are particularly preferred.
• heterocyclic compounds are contained in the preparations according to the present invention in quantities from 0.5 to 10 wt % based on the entire preparation. Quantities from 2 to 6 wt % have proven particularly suitable.
• amino acids and amino acid derivatives are, according to the present invention, amino acids and amino acid derivatives. From the group of the amino acids, arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine, and lysine have proven to be suitable according to the present invention.
• the amino acids can be used both as free amino acid and as salts, e.g. as hydrochlorides.
• oligopeptides made up of an average of 2-3 amino acids, and that have a high concentration (>50%, in particular >70%) of the aforesaid amino acids, have also proven to be usable according to the present invention.
• Particularly preferred according to the present invention are arginine and its salts, and arginine-rich oligopeptides.
• amino acids or derivatives are contained in the preparations according to the present invention in quantities from 0.5 to 10 wt % based on the entire preparation. Quantities from 2 to 6 wt % have proven particularly suitable.
• penetration adjuvants and/or swelling agents are contained in the preparations according to the present invention.
• penetration adjuvants and/or swelling agents include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogencarbonates, diols, and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentaned
• the preparations according to the present invention can also, especially in the case of waving lotions, contain waving-power-increasing components, in particular urea, imidazole, and the aforementioned diols.
• waving-power-increasing components in particular urea, imidazole, and the aforementioned diols.
• the reader is referred to the documents DE Unexamined Application 44 36 065 and EP-B1-363 057, to whose content reference is explicitly made.
• the waving-power-increasing compounds can be contained in the preparations according to the present invention in quantities from 0.5 to 5 wt %, based on the entire preparation. Quantities from 1 to 4 wt % have proven to be sufficient, and these quantities are therefore particularly preferred.
• a stabilizer usual for the stabilization of aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations is preferably additionally used.
• the pH of such aqueous H 2 O 2 preparations which usually contain approximately 0.5 to 15 wt %, generally approximately 0.5-3 wt % in a ready-to-use state, H 2 O 2 , is preferably 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 4; it is adjusted by means of acids, preferably phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids, and/or dipicolinic acid.
• Bromate-based fixing agents contain the bromates usually in concentrations from 1 to 10 wt %, and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. It can be particularly preferred according to the present invention to utilize fixing agent concentrates that are diluted with water before application.
• oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbatoxidase, and laccase, but also glucoseoxidase, uricase, or pyruvatoxidase. Mention may also be made of the procedure of intensifying, by means of peroxidases, the effect of small quantities (e.g. 1% and less, based on the entire agent) of hydrogen peroxide.
• the fixing agents according to the present invention can also be formulated as solids. They then contain the oxidizing agent in the form of a solid, e.g. potassium or sodium bromate. It is likewise possible, and preferred, to formulate the oxidizing agent as a two-component system.
• the two components of which one is preferably a hydrogen peroxide solution or an aqueous solution of another oxidizing agent, and the other contains the remaining constituents, in particular care-providing substances and/or reducing agents, are once again not mixed until shortly before application.
• the preparations utilized in step (b) of the method according to the present invention as surface-active compounds can contain cationic surfactants of the following types: quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats, and amide amines.
• Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
• cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
• the long alkyl chains of the aforementioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
• Esterquats are known substances that contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural elements.
• Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
• Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, and Armocare®.
• the alkylamide amines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
• a compound from this substance group that is particularly suitable according to the present invention is represented by the stearamidopropyldimethylamine available commercially under the designation Tegoamid® S 18.
• the cationic surfactants are contained in the preparations utilized according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 10 wt % based on the entire agent. Quantities from 0.1 to 5 wt % are particularly preferred.
• silicone oils and silicone gums in particular dialkyl- and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs.
• silicones are the products marketed by Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200, and DC 1401, and the commercial product Fancorsil® LIM-1.
• conditioning active substances are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone that is also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil®-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).
• a suitable anionic silicone oil is the product Dow Corning®1784.
• Additional active substances, adjuvants, and additives are, for example:
• the preparations according to the present invention can be used in hair-care agents such as shampoos, conditioning agents, rinses, aerosols, and gels, and in hair dyeing agents, or also in agents for textile or fiber treatment, in the form of washing agents, conditioners, impregnations, and finishes.
• hair-care agents such as shampoos, conditioning agents, rinses, aerosols, and gels
• hair dyeing agents or also in agents for textile or fiber treatment, in the form of washing agents, conditioners, impregnations, and finishes.
• the stress values, gradients, modulus of elasticity, elongation at fracture, and stress at fracture of the wet hairs were determined using a tensile elongation unit of the Dia-Stron company (MTT 670).
• the cross-sectional area of the individual wet hairs was determined by non-contact projection measurement using laser technology known in the existing art.
• a UMD5000A universal dimension instrument of the Zimmer company was utilized for this purpose.
• Succinic acid produces significant hair strengthening.
• succinic acid is added to the permanent wave process, an increase in modulus of elasticity, gradient, stress values, and work is observed, from which an improvement in structure may be deduced.

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• 2004
  • 2004-05-18 DE DE102004024506A patent/DE102004024506A1/de not_active Withdrawn
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