Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/57—Compounds covalently linked to a(n inert) carrier molecule, e.g. conjugates, pro-fragrances
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/94—Involves covalent bonding to the substrate

Definitions

• compositions comprising at least one compound (a) combined with at least one complexing agent (b), wherein the at least one compound (a) and/or the at least one complexing agent (b) optionally bears at least one cosmetically active group, and/or an anchoring group allowing covalent attachment to a keratin material.
• compositions comprising at least one compound (a) as defined herein and at least one complexing agent (b) capable of forming a complex with the at least one compound (a) having a dissociation constant of less than or equal to 10 ⁇ 1 at a temperature of 25° C.
• the at least one compound (a) is optionally linked to an anchoring group a and/or the at least one complexing agent is optionally linked to an anchoring group ⁇ ′, the groups ⁇ and ⁇ ′, which may be identical or different, allowing covalent attachment to a keratin material and the at least one compound (a) or the at least one complexing agent (b) and optionally bearing at least one cosmetically active group.
• an anchoring group ⁇ or ⁇ ′ is a chemical group that allows the covalent attachment of the compound bearing the anchoring group to the keratin material under the action of a stimulus other than electromagnetic waves with wavelengths ranging from 200 to 800 nm.
• the stimuli that may be used according to the embodiments disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from molecular agitation, heat, pH, organic and mineral catalysts, oxygen and ultrasound.
• m is a number ranging from 0 to 100;
• n is 0 or 1;
• p is a number ranging from 0 to 100;
• ⁇ is chosen from anchoring groups allowing covalent attachment to a keratin material
• L is chosen from residues, other than biotin, having complexing activity relative to the at least one complexing agent (b); L may for example, be chosen from, antigens, carbohydrates, nucleic acid monostrands, and enzyme substrates among other things;
• A is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated divalent radicals comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one hetero atom and optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino, halogen, aryl, phosphate, phosphonate, sulphate, sulphonate, carboxyl, alkoxycarbonyl and alkoxy groups;
• Y is chosen from groups Z, wherein Z is chosen from carboxyl, mercaptan, alkoxycarbonyl, amino, ammonio, phosphate, phosphite, phosphonate, sulphite, sulphate and sulphonate groups and from radicals BW, wherein W is chosen from residues with cosmetic activity and B is chosen from a species for fixing the residue W to L or to A,
• B is chosen, for example, from amine, imine, amide, ester, disulphide, thioester, urethane, urea, ether, thioether, azo, methine and epoxy groups, aromatic and heterocyclic residues and dialkylpolysiloxane residues; and
• W is derived, for example, from at least one of: UV-screening molecules, hydrating and emollient molecules, conditioners, antistatic agents, antiperspirants, fragrancing materials, reducing molecules, oxidizing molecules, coloring molecules, antimicrobial agents, antidandruff agents, mineral and organic particulates onto which are optionally adsorbed at least one polymer, and anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic film-forming agents onto which are optionally adsorbed organic and/or mineral particles.
• the term “particles” covers both mineral particles and organic particles.
• the mineral particles may, for example, be chosen from oxides, oxide dihydrates, hydroxides, carbonates, sulphides, silicates and phosphates of silicon, of calcium, of magnesium, of zinc, of aluminium, of titanium, of zirconium and of cerium, nacres, micas, particles comprising native metals such as alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, transition metals and rare-earth metals, which may be optionally coated, and alloys thereof.
• the organic particles may, for example, be chosen from latices, polystyrene, polystyrene derivatives, silicones, fluoro polymers, polypropylene, polyethylene, poly(meth)acrylic acid, polymethacrylate, polyurethane, polyamide, polycarbonate, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinyl acetate, fluoropolymers, polyethylenes, polypropylene, polyisobutylene, poly(1-butylene), copolymers and blends of the polymers mentioned, alkyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyldextran, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate, carboxyethylcellulose, cellulose sulphate, dextran sulphate, polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene oxide, polyvinyl chloride and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
• polystyrene particles are commercially available from Polyscience Inc. (Warrington, Pa.) or Duke Scientific Corporation (Palo Alto, Ca.).
• These organic particles may be crosslinked with at least one crosslinking agent.
• the at least one crosslinking agent may be chosen from divinylbenzene, glutaraldehyde, 1,4-bis(acryloyl)piperazine, carbodiimides, N-hydroxysuccinimide and derivatives thereof, divinyl sulphone, dithiobis(succinimidyl)propioniate and N-succinimidyl-3-(2-pyridyldithio)propionate.
• the term “particles” means particles ranging, for example, from 1 nm to 100 ⁇ m in size, further, for example, from 1 nm to 1000 nm in size and even further, for example, from 1 nm to 50 nm in size.
• the term “particle size” means the maximum possible size to measure between two diametrically opposite points of the particle.
• the particles disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from spherical, lamellar, fibrillar, and totally random shaped particles.
• the group W may, for example, be derived from at least one active agent chosen from:
• amino acids modified or unmodified, optionally hydrolysed oligopeptides, peptides, and proteins, polyamino acids and enzymes;
• UV screening agents [0035] UV screening agents
• antioxidants and free-radical scavengers [0036] antioxidants and free-radical scavengers
• the modified or unmodified, optionally hydrolysed saccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides which may be used in the compositions disclosed herein, may be chosen from those described, for example, in “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology”, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900 and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in “Polymers in Nature” by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in “Industrial Gums—Polysaccharides and their Derivatives”, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.
• modified or unmodified, optionally hydrolysed oligopeptides, peptides and proteins that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from modified and unmodified wools, silk protein hydrolysates, and plant proteins such as wheat proteins.
• polyamino acids that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be polylysine.
• the enzymes that may be used herein may, for example, be chosen from laccases, peroxidases, lipases, proteases, glycosidases, dextranases, uricases and alkaline phosphatase.
• the branched or unbranched fatty acids that are suitable for use in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from at least one of C 8 -C 30 carboxylic acids such as palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and lauric acid.
• the fatty alcohols that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from at least one of C 8 -C 30 alcohols such as, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol.
• a wax is a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (about 25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than 40° C. and which may be up to 200° C., and having an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state.
• the size of the wax crystals is such that crystals scatter and/or diffuse light, giving the compositions comprising them a more or less opaque, cloudy appearance.
• the waxes used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fiber wax and sugar cane wax; and mineral waxes, such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes and ozokerites.
• waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives
• plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fiber wax and sugar cane wax
• mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes and ozokerites.
• the ceramides useful herein may, for example, be chosen from ceramides of categories I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification, for example, N-oleyldehydrosphingosine.
• the hydroxylated organic acids may, for example, be chosen from those that are well known and used in the art.
• the hydroxylated organic acids may be chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and malic acid.
• the UV-A-active and UV-B-active sunscreens that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may be chosen from those that are well known to those skilled in the art.
• the UV-A-active and UV-B-active sunscreens may be chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzolymethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, and 4-tert-butyl-4′-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane; p-aminobenzoic acid and esters thereof, such as 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate and N-propoxylated ethyl p-aminobenzoate; salicylates, such as triethanolamine salicylate; cinnamic acid esters, such as 2-ethylmethan
• antioxidants and free-radical scavengers that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from ascorbic acid; ascorbyl compounds such as ascorbyl dipalmitate; t-butylhydroquinone; polyphenols, such as phloroglucinol; sodium sulphite; erythorbic acid; and flavonoids.
• benzethonium chloride benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine, chloramine T, chloramine B, 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 1,3-dichloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 3-bromo-1-chloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin and N-chlorosuccinimide;
• 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-6-methyl-2-pyridone and 1-hydroxy-4,6-dimethyl-2-pyridone;
• azole compounds such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrinazole, econazole, isoconazole and miconazole b;
• antifungal polymers such as amphotericin B and nystatin
• sulphur in its various forms cadmium sulphide, allantoin, coal tar and wood tar and, for example, derivatives thereof, cade oil, undecylenic acid, fumaric acid and allylamines, such as terbinafine.
• the antidandruff agents may also, for example, be chosen from the addition salts thereof with physiologically acceptable acids, for example, the addition salts may, for example, be chosen from sulphuric acid, nitric acid, thiocyanic acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, glycolic acid, aceturic acid, succinic acid, nicotinic acid, tartaric acid, maleic acid, palmitic acid, methanesulphonic acid, propanoic acid, 2-oxopropanoic acid, propanedioic acid, 2-hydroxy-1,4-butanedioic acid, 3-phenyl-2-propenoic acid, ⁇ -hydroxybenzeneacetic acid, ethanesulphonic acid, 2-hydroxyethanesulphonic acid, 4-methylbenzenesulphonic acid, 4-amino-2-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2-phenoxybenzoic acid, 2-
• the antidandruff agents mentioned above may also, where appropriate, be chosen from the addition salts thereof with physiologically acceptable organic and mineral bases.
• the organic bases may, for example, be chosen from low molecular weight alkanolamines, such as ethanolamine, diethanolamine, N-ethylethanolamine, triethanolamine, diethylaminoethanol and 2-amino-2-methylpropanedione; non-volatile bases, such as ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylamine, benzylamine and N-methylpiperazine; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, for example, trimethylbenzyl hydroxide; guanidine and derivatives thereof, for example, alkyl derivatives thereof.
• the mineral bases may, for example, be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium and potassium salts; the ammonium salts, the alkaline-earth metal salts, for example, the magnesium and calcium salts; the salts of cationic di-, tri- and tetravalent metals, for example, the zinc, aluminium and zirconium salts.
• alkali metal salts such as the sodium and potassium salts
• the ammonium salts such as the sodium and potassium salts
• the alkaline-earth metal salts for example, the magnesium and calcium salts
• the salts of cationic di-, tri- and tetravalent metals for example, the zinc, aluminium and zirconium salts.
• Alkanolamines, ethylenediamine and mineral bases such as the alkali metal salts may, for example, be used in the compositions disclosed herein.
• the seborrhoea regulators may, for example, be chosen from succinyl-chitosan and poly- ⁇ -alanine.
• the calmants may, for example, be chosen from azulene and glycyrrhetinic acid.
• the cationic surfactants may, for example, be chosen from those that are well known per se, such as optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamido-alkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium and alkylpyridinium chlorides and bromides; and imidazoline derivatives.
• cationic polymer means any polymer comprising at least one group chosen from cationic groups and groups that may be ionized into cationic groups.
• the cationic polymers that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from any of those already known per se for improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, such as those described in Patent Application No. EP-A-0 337 354 and in French Patent Application Nos. FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
• the cationic polymers may, for example, be chosen from polymers comprising units comprising at least one group chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups and the units may either form part of the main polymer chain and/or may be borne by a side substituent that is directly attached thereto.
• the cationic polymers used may, for example, have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 5 ⁇ 10 6 and further, for example, from 10 3 to 3 ⁇ 10 6 .
• the cationic polymers may, for example, be chosen from polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type polymers. These polymers are known products.
• polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type polymers that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from those described in French Patent Nos. 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
• these polymers may be chosen from at least one of:
• cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium salt;
• cationic polysaccharides described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums comprising at least one cationic trialkylammonium group;
• polymers comprising at least one piperazinyl unit and at least one group chosen from divalent alkylene and hydroxyalkylene groups, wherein the divalent alkylene and hydroxyalkylene groups comprise at least one chain chosen from straight and branched chains, optionally interrupted by at least one oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atom; aromatic and heterocyclic rings; and the oxidation and quaternization products of these polymers.
• divalent alkylene and hydroxyalkylene groups comprise at least one chain chosen from straight and branched chains, optionally interrupted by at least one oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atom; aromatic and heterocyclic rings; and the oxidation and quaternization products of these polymers.
• Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patent Nos. 2 162 025 and 2 280 361;
• polyamino amide derivatives for example, chosen from adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers wherein the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and, for example, is chosen from methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and, for example, may be an ethylene group.
• adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers wherein the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and, for example, is chosen from methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and, for example, may be an ethylene group.
• the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1.
• Such polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347;
• cationic polymers that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines; polymers comprising at least one unit chosen from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium units; condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin; quaternary polyureylenes; and chitin derivatives.
• amphoteric polymers that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C randomly distributed in the polymer chain, wherein B is unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C is a unit derived from an acidic monomer comprising at least one group chosen from carboxylic and sulphonic groups, or alternatively B and C may be chosen from groups derived from zwitterionic carboxybetaine and sulphobetaine monomers;
• amphoteric polymers corresponding to the above definition may, for example, be chosen from the following polymers:
• amphoteric polymers used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be the sodium acrylate/acrylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name Polyquart® KE 3033 by the company Henkel.
• the vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
• esters comprising at least one substituent chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl and diethyl sulphate.
• N-substituted acrylamides and methacrylamides which may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from groups wherein the alkyl radicals comprise from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, for example, N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
• the at least one acidic comonomer may, for example, be chosen from acrylic acids, methacrylic acids, crotonic acids, itaconic acids, maleic acids, fumaric acids, and alkyl monoesters, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic and fumaric acids and anhydrides.
• the at least one basic comonomer may, for example, be chosen from aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N′-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
• copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name Amphomer® and Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch may also, for example, be used in the compositions disclosed herein.
• R 10 is a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, amono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid comprising at least one ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, of these acids, and radicals derived from the addition of any one of the acids to amines chosen from bis(primary) and bis(secondary) amines; and
• Z is chosen from bis(primary), mono- and bis(secondary) polyalkylene-polyamine radicals and may, for example, be chosen from radicals of the following formula:
• this radical being derived from a compound chosen from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetraamine and dipropylenetriamine;
• the saturated carboxylic acids may, for example, be chosen from acids comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, and acids comprising at least one ethylenic double bond, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.
• the alkane sultones used in the alkylation may, for example, be chosen from propane sultone and butane sultone, and the salts of the alkylating agents may, for example, be chosen from sodium and potassium salts.
• R 11 is chosen from polymerizable unsaturated groups, such as acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide and methacrylamide groups;
• R 12 and R 13 which may be identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom, and methyl, ethyl and propyl groups,
• R 14 and R 15 which may be identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom and alkyl radicals such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R 14 and R 15 does not exceed 10.
• the polymers comprising at least one zwitterionic unit can also comprise at least one unit derived from non-zwitterionic monomers, such as monomer chosen from dimethyl and diethylaminoethyl acrylates and methacrylates, alkyl acrylates, methacrylates, acrylamides, methacrylamides, and vinyl acetate.
• non-zwitterionic monomers such as monomer chosen from dimethyl and diethylaminoethyl acrylates and methacrylates, alkyl acrylates, methacrylates, acrylamides, methacrylamides, and vinyl acetate.
• the copolymer of methyl methacrylate/dimethyl carboxymethylammonio ethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name Diaformer® Z301 by the company Sandoz can be used in the compositions disclosed herein.
• the unit (V) being present in proportions ranging from 0 to 30%, the unit (VI) in proportions ranging from 5 to 50% and the unit (VII) in proportions ranging from 30 to 90%, and wherein in the unit (VII), R 16 is a radical of formula:
• R 17 , R 18 and R 19 which may be identical or different, each are chosen from a hydrogen atom, methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy and amino residues; monoalkylamine residues and dialkylamine residues which are optionally interrupted by at least one nitrogen atom and/or optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio and sulphonic groups; alkylthio residues wherein the alkyl radical bears at least one amino residue, at least one of the radicals R 17 , R 18 and R 19 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom; or
• R 17 , R 18 and R 19 which may be identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom and the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
• R 20 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a CH 3 O radical, a CH 3 CH 2 O radical, and a phenyl radical;
• R 21 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and lower alkyl radicals, such as methyl and ethyl radicals;
• R 22 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and lower alkyl radicals, such as methyl and ethyl radicals;
• r is a number ranging from 1 to 100.
• X is chosen from E and E′, wherein E and E′, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from divalent alkylene radicals which comprise at least one straight or branched chain comprising up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which are optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group and which can additionally comprise at least one oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur atom and 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; wherein the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms can be present in the form of at least one group chosen from ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine, and alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and urethane groups;
• X is chosen from the E and E′ and wherein at least one X is chosen from E′;
• E having the meaning given above and E′ being chosen from divalent alkylene radicals comprising at least one chain chosen from straight and branched chains comprising up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, wherein the divalent alkylene radicals are optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl radical and comprise at least one nitrogen atom, the at least one nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain which is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom, and wherein the alkyl chain comprises at least one functional group chosen from carboxyl functional groups and hydroxyl functional groups, and wherein the alkyl chain is betainized by reaction with a reactant chosen from chloroacetic acid and sodium chloroacetate.
• These copolymers can also comprise other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
• the silicones that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may be soluble or insoluble in water, and they may, for example, be chosen from organopolysiloxanes that are insoluble in water; the silicones may, further, for example, be in the form of oils, waxes, resins, or gums.
• the organopolysiloxanes may, for example, be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60° C. to 260° C., and further, for example, from:
• cyclic silicones comprising, for example, from 3 to 7 silicone atoms, and further, for example, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
• These cyclic silicones may, for example, be chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the name “Volatile Silicone 7207” by Union Carbide and “Silbione 70045 V 2” by Rhodia, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name “Volatile Silicone 7158” by Union Carbide, and “Silbione 70045 V 5” by Rhodia.
• cyclic silicones may also be chosen from dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type cyclocopolymers, such as “Volatile Silicone FZ 3109” sold by the company Union Carbide, having the chemical structure:
• linear volatile silicones comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s at 25° C.
• decamethyltetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the name “SH 200” by the company Toray Silicone can be used. Silicones chosen from this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.
• the non-volatile silicones may, for example, be chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with at least one organofunctional group.
• organomodified silicones that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure at least one organofunctional group attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
• organomodified silicones may, for example, be chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least group chosen from:
• polyethyleneoxy and polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising at least one alkyl group chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 and the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide and the (C 12 )alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
• substituted and unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee, and the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
• the substituted amine groups may, for example, be chosen from C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl groups;
• thiol groups such as the products sold under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from Genesee;
• alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name “Silicone Copolymer F-755” by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;
• hydroxylated groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one hydroxyalkyl functional group, described in French Patent Application No. FR-A-85/16334;
• acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732;
• anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type such as the products described in Patent No. EP 186 507 from the company Chisso Corporation, and anionic groups of alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulphonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulphate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names “Abil® S201” and “Abil® S255;” and
• hydroxyacylamino groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in Patent Application No. EP 342 834, for example, the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.
• compositions disclosed herein may further comprise at least one oil of plant, mineral, or animal origin.
• the oils of plant origin may be chosen from, for example, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheatgerm oil, sesame seed oil, groundnut oil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, carite butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, and beauty-leaf oil;
• the oils of animal origin may be chosen from perhydrosqualene, and the oils of mineral origin may be chosen from liquid paraffin and liquid petroleum jelly.
• polyisobutenes and poly( ⁇ -olefins) useful herein may be chosen from those well known in the art.
• esters useful herein may be chosen from fatty acid esters, for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isononanoate and isopropyl lanolate.
• fatty acid esters for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isononanoate and isopropyl lanolate.
• the anionic polymers that may, for example, be used in the compositions disclosed herein may be chosen from polymers comprising at least one group derived from carboxylic acids, sulphonic acids and phosphoric acids, and having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 5 000 000.
• the carboxylic groups may, for example, be chosen from unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula below:
• n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10;
• A is a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via a hetero atom such as oxygen or sulphur;
• R 1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and phenyl and benzyl groups
• R 2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and lower alkyl and carboxyl groups
• R 3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, lower alkyl groups, a —CH 2 —COOH group, and phenyl and benzyl groups.
• a lower alkyl group may, for example, comprise from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and, further, for example, may be chosen from methyl and ethyl groups.
• anionic polymers comprising at least one carboxylic group which may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from:
• a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked.
• the copolymer may be chosen from copolymers whose chain comprises at least one optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit, such as those described, for example, in the Luxembourg Patent Application Nos.
• C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those whose chain comprises at least one unit chosen from vinyl acetate and propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allylic and methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid comprising at least one long hydrocarbon-based chain such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers to be grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an ⁇ - or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
• Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French Patent Nos.
• Such polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248 and 2,102,113 and GB Patent No. 839 805, and, for example, those sold under the names Gantrez® AN and ES by the company ISP.
• Polymers also chosen from this category include the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of allylic or methallylic esters optionally comprising at least one group chosen from acrylamide and methacrylamide groups, ⁇ -olefins, acrylic and methacrylic esters, acrylic and methacrylic acid and vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functional groups being monoesterified or monoamidated.
• the polymers comprising at least one sulphonic group may, for example, be chosen from polymers comprising at least one unit chosen from vinylsulphonic, styrenesulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic and acrylamidoalkylsulphonic units.
• These polymers can be chosen, for example, from:
• polyvinylsulphonic acid salts with a molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 100 000, as well as copolymers with at least one unsaturated comonomer chosen from, for example, acrylic and methacrylic acids and esters thereof, as well as acrylamide and derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
• polystyrenesulphonic acid salts the sodium salts having a molecular weight ranging from 500 000 to 100 000, sold, respectively, under the names Flexan® 500 and Flexan® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in Patent No. FR 2 198 719;
• polyacrylamidesulphonic acid salts such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,128,631, for example, polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer® HSP 1180 by Henkel.
• vinyl acetate homopolymers such as the product sold under the name Appretan® EM by the company Hoechst, and the product sold under the name Rhodopas® A 012 by the company Rhône-Poulenc;
• copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester such as the product sold under the name Rhodopas® AD 310 by Rhône-Poulenc;
• copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene such as the product sold under the name Appretan® TV by the company Hoechst;
• copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester for example of dibutyl maleate, such as the product sold under the name Appretan® MB Extra by the company Hoechst;
• alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers such as the product sold under the name Micropearl® RQ 750 by the company Matsumoto and the product sold under the name Luhydran® A 848 S by the company BASF;
• acrylic ester copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Primal® AC-261 K and Eudragit® NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the names Acronal® 601, Luhydran® LR 8833 or 8845, and by the company Hoechst under the names Appretan® N 9213 or N 921 2;
• polyurethanes such as the products sold under the names Acrysol® RM 1020 and Acrysol® RM 2020 by the company Rohm & Haas, and the products Uraflex® XP 401 UZ and Uraflex® XP 402 UZ by the company DSM Resins;
• copolymers of alkyl acetate and urethane such as the product 8538-33 by the company National Starch;
• polyamides such as the product Estapor® LO 11 sold by the company Rhône-Poulenc.
• modified nonionic guar gums that can be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be modified with at least one group chosen from C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
• the at least one group can be chosen from hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
• Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with at least one hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar® HP8, Jaguar® HP60 and Jaguar® HP120, Jaguar® DC 293 and Jaguar® HP 105 by the company Meyhall and under the name Galactasol® 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.
• the reducing agents that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from thio acids and salts thereof, such as thioglycolic acid, thiosulphate, cysteine, and cysteamine; alkali metal sulphites and alkaline-earth metal sulphites; reducing sugars such as glucose; vitamin C and derivatives thereof; sulphinic acid derivatives; and phosphines.
• the dyes may be chosen from conjugated linear and aromatic, heterocyclic and non-heterocyclic, structures.
• the dyes may be chosen from nitrobenzene dyes, aromatic dyes, aminobenzene dyes, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, aromatic diamines, aminophenols, phenols and naphthols, porphyrins, tetraphenylporphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanins, carotenoids, flavanoids and fluorescent molecules, such as fluorescein, rhodamine, and coumarin, etc.
• ⁇ ′ is chosen from anchoring groups allowing covalent attachment to a keratin material
• X is chosen from groups Z′ and radicals CW′;
• W′, A′, m′, n′ and p′ have the same possible meanings as W, A, m, n and p, respectively, in formula (I);
• Z′ is chosen from carboxyl, mercaptan, alkoxycarbonyl, amino, ammonio, phosphite, phosphate, phosphonate, sulphate sulphite, and sulphonate radicals;
• C is chosen from moieties for attaching the residue W to the active complexing component D;
• D is such that the combination D(A′) n′ (X) m′ ( ⁇ ′) p′ can form, with the at least one compound (a), a complex whose dissociation constant is less than 10 ⁇ 1 at a temperature of 25° C.
• D may, for example, be chosen from antibodies such as fragments of the Fab, Fv and scFv type.
• D may also, for example, be chosen from enzymes, a lectin, CBD (Cellulose Binding Domain), and nucleic acid monostrands; provided that that when (a) and (b) are present in the same composition, D and L do not denote complementary nucleic acid strands.
• compositions disclosed herein may comprise the at least one compound (a) and the at least one complexing agent (b) described above, in a total amount ranging, for example, from 0.000001% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, further, for example, ranging from 0.000005% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even further, for example, ranging from 0.00001% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions disclosed herein may further comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium which may be chosen, for example, from water, mixtures of solvents, and mixtures of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent chosen, for example, from C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol; and alkylene glycols, for example, propylene glycol, and glycol ethers.
• a cosmetically acceptable medium which may be chosen, for example, from water, mixtures of solvents, and mixtures of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent chosen, for example, from C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol
• alkylene glycols for example, propylene glycol, and glycol ethers.
• the pH of the compositions disclosed herein may range, for example, from 3 to 10 and further, for example, range from 5 to 7.
• compositions disclosed herein may also comprise at least one additive chosen from natural and synthetic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic, associative and non-associative polymeric thickeners, non-polymeric thickeners, for example, acids and electrolytes, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, nacreous agents, opacifiers, fragrances, colorants, mineral and organic particles, preserving agents and pH stabilizers.
• additives chosen from natural and synthetic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic, associative and non-associative polymeric thickeners, non-polymeric thickeners, for example, acids and electrolytes, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, nacreous agents, opacifiers, fragrances, colorants, mineral and organic particles, preserving agents and pH stabilizers.
• the at least one additive may, for example, be present in the compositions disclosed herein in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be provided in a form chosen from more or less thickened aqueous, alcoholic and aqueous-alcoholic solutions; creams; fluid gels; sticks; and mousses.
• the compositions may also be packaged in aerosol form.
• Disclosed herein is a set of cosmetic processes for treating a keratin material, for example, hair.
• a twenty-fifth process comprises, in a first stage, depositing onto the keratin material by covalent attachment the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from groups Z, and then, in a second stage, applying the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from groups Z′.
• a twenty-sixth process comprises, in a first stage, depositing onto the keratin material by covalent attachment the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from radicals BW, and then, in a second stage, applying the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from groups Z′.
• a twenty-seventh process comprises, in a first stage, depositing onto the keratin material by covalent attachment the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from groups Z, and then, in a second stage, applying the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from radicals CW′.
• a twenty-eighth process comprises, in a first stage, depositing onto the keratin material by covalent attachment the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from radicals BW, and then, in a second stage, applying the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from radicals CW′.
• a twenty-ninth process comprises, in a first stage, depositing onto the keratin material by covalent attachment the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from groups Z′, and then, in a second stage, applying the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from groups Z.
• a thirtieth process comprises, in a first stage, depositing onto the keratin material by covalent attachment the at least one complexing agent b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from groups Z′, and then, in a second stage, applying the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from radicals BW.
• a thirty-first process comprises, in a first stage, depositing onto the keratin material by covalent attachment at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from radicals CW′, and then, in a second stage, applying the at least one compound a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from groups Z.
• a thirty-second process comprises, in a first stage, depositing onto the keratin material by covalent attachment the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from radicals CW′, and then, in a second stage, applying the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from radicals BW.
• a forty-fifth process comprises simultaneously depositing onto the keratin material the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from groups Z and the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from groups Z′.
• a forty-sixth process comprises simultaneously depositing onto the keratin material the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from radicals BW and the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from groups Z′.
• a forty-seventh process comprises simultaneously depositing onto the keratin material the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from groups Z and the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from radicals CW′.
• Multilayer deposits may thus be formed.
• a fourteenth kit comprises, in a first compartment, the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from radicals BW and, in a second compartment, the at least one complexing agent b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from groups Z′.
• a fifteenth kit comprises, in a first compartment, the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from groups Z and, in a second compartment, the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from radicals CW′.
• a sixteenth kit comprises, in a first compartment, the at least one compound (a) wherein p ⁇ 0 and Y is chosen from radicals BW and, in a second compartment, the at least one complexing agent (b) wherein p′ ⁇ 0 and X is chosen from radicals CW′.
• the hair treatment process disclosed herein may comprise a preliminary step that comprises applying at least one cosmetic treatment agent chosen from reducing agents; oxidizing agents for permanently reshaping the hair; oxidation dyes; bleaching agents; shampoos; and styling compositions.
• at least one cosmetic treatment agent chosen from reducing agents; oxidizing agents for permanently reshaping the hair; oxidation dyes; bleaching agents; shampoos; and styling compositions.
• Anti-FITC anti-fluorescein isothiocyanate
• a solution of FITC-dextran (Sigma, ref: FD-70S) at 100 ⁇ g/ml in phosphate buffer (pH 7.2) was prepared. Untreated hair (control) and hair treated with Anti-FITC were incubated in 1 ml of this solution for 2 hours at room temperature. The samples were then rinsed 3 times with distilled water (3 ⁇ 1 ml of distilled water with vortex-stirring for 1 minute).
• the Anti-FITC was adsorbed onto the hair and the FITC-Biotin complex was then attached to the hair.
• a solution of avidin-peroxidase (Sigma, ref: A3151) at 50 ⁇ g/ml in phosphate buffer (pH 7.2) was prepared. The samples were incubated in 1 ml of this solution for 1 hour at room temperature and were then rinsed in several steps: 3 rinses with 1 ml of a shampoo solution and then 3 rinses with 1 ml of distilled water. 1 ml of a solution of peroxidase substrate (Sigma, ref: A3219) was then added. This substrate, which was colorless in solution, was converted into a colored (yellow) substance after reaction with peroxidase.
• This substance absorbed UV light (405 nm) strongly and thus made it possible to detect the presence of peroxidase on the hair.
• the reaction was left to proceed for 5 minutes and was then quenched with 1 ml of 1% SDS solution. 200 ⁇ l of the supernatant of each sample were taken up and placed, after dilution, in the wells of a 96-well plate. A spectrophotometric reading at 405 nm was taken.
• the mean optical density of the solution obtained for the treated hair was 1.36.
• the mean optical density of the solution obtained for the control hair was 0.88.
• PEI-FITC polyethyleneimine-FITC
• PEI-FITC 0.25 g was deposited on 1 g of grey hair. The hair was massaged and then washed with water and dried at 60° C. for 30 minutes.

Landscapes

• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=31970929

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (6)

Cited By (3)

Citations (60)

Family Cites Families (7)

• 2002
  • 2002-09-24 FR FR0211782A patent/FR2844712B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2003
  • 2003-09-22 BR BR0303867-0A patent/BR0303867A/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2003-09-23 EP EP03292330A patent/EP1402880A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
  • 2003-09-23 US US10/667,435 patent/US20040208843A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2003-09-24 JP JP2003331415A patent/JP2004115518A/ja active Pending
  • 2003-09-24 CN CN03159754.8A patent/CN1268317C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related

Patent Citations (63)

Also Published As

Similar Documents

Legal Events