US1794554A - Fabric - Google Patents

Description

March 3, 1 931. 5 sc w z 1,794,554

FABRI C Filed'July 2, 1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR YwM wq ATTORNEY s March 3, 1931. s. SCHWARTZ FABRIC Filed July 2. 1929 3 Sheeds-Sheet 2 Patented Mar. 3, 1931- OFFICE SAMUEL SCHWARTZ, OF ALBANY, NEW YORK FABRIC Original application filed March 27, 1929, Serial No. 1929. Serial .My invention relates to a new and improved fabric.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide a new and improved fabric having a backing made ofworsted or other relatively strong non-crushable and resilient material, and a face of silk or other relatively fragile and expensive material.

Another object of my invention is to provide a. combination fabric; which shall be especially adapted for use in making neckties, althoughmy invention is not limited to this specific use.

.jects of my invention is intended merely to generally explain the it in any manner.

Fig. 1 1s a diagrammatic view showing the Same and not tolimit reed whichis utilized for weaving the im proved cloth.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is adiagrammatic view showing how I thewarp threads of the back fabric, and how the warp thread of the face fabric are arranged within the reed, when the weft or filler thread is inserted.

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic view showing the fabric made with the satin type of weave. Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4, showing theserge type of weave. V

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 4 showing how the taffeta type of weave is employed. Figs. 7-9 are diagrammatic views similar to Figs. 4-6 respectively, a binder being employed in the emodiments illustrated in Figs. 7-9 inclusive, while no binder is employed in the 350,198. Divided and this application filed July 2, No. 375,494.

the embodiments shown inFigs. 4-6 inclusive.

This general type of fabric is disclosed in my previously filed application Ser. N 0. 314,442 filed October 23d, 1928.

While I donot wish terial, I prefer to use worsted Warp threads for the back fabric, silk warp threads for the face fabric, and to employ a worsted weft thread. If a binder warp is utilized, this can be made of silk thread and this is preferable. The advantage of using a worsted back fabric interwoven with the silk face fabric is that the worsted fabric is relatively 'noncrushable, so that it does not readily crease, and tends to assume an unwrinkled shape, after it has been bent or creased. The silk fabric alone can be readily creased or wrinkled, but the use of the worsted. backing makes the composite fabric non-crushable.

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 4, the silk is woven to form what is designated as the satin type of weave, and the Worsted backing is Woven to form what is designated as the serge type of weave, Every complete stroke or vibration of the shuttle may be considered as consisting of a forward stroke and a. return stroke. During the forward stroke of the shuttle, the worsted filler thread W? is caused to cross or bind one-sixth of the'silk warp threads S, namely, two silk threads out of each group of twelve. During this forward stroke of the shuttle, the filler thread to limitmyself to ma- 0 only weaves the silk threads, without weaving worsted threads-or cloth. On the return stroke of the shuttle, the shed is formed in the worsted warp threads W so that the two silk threads which have been crossed or bound by the filled thread, are now caused to interlock with the worsted warp thread W' asso ciated with the corresponding group. However, I do not wish to limit myself to any particular type of'interlocking weave, as long as the backing is sufiiciently interwoven with the facing to impart the resilience and other thread is not bound with the corresponding worsted warp thread in the same dent unless the worsted warp thread is raised during the return stroke of the shuttle. Hence, upon the forward stroke of the shuttle, a satin weave is formed in the silk face fabric by binding one-sixth of the warp threads therein, and upon the return stroke of the shuttle this one-sixth of the silk warp threads is also caused to interlock with the corresponding worsted warp threads. Also, upon the return stroke of the shuttle, a shed is formed in the Worsted warp threads W so that the serge type of weave is formed in the worsted backing, while interweaving the worsted back cloth with the silk face cloth. In this serge type of weave, the filler thread crosses or binds one-third of the worsted warp threads. Whenever I refer to the silk warp thread being interlockedwith a worsted warp thread which is in the same dent, it is to be understood, that if a filler thread is used for this purpose, that the silk warp thread and said corresponding worsted warp thread, interlock with the filler thread.

In Fig. 4, I have illustrated only six silk war threads. (instead of a full group of twe ve threads) for the sake of clearness. The length of the weft which is inserted into the fabric by a single, movement of the shuttle may be des gnated as a cross-length thereof. In the satin type of weave illustrated in Fig. 4, each cross-length of the weft thread eugages two silk warp threads in each group of twelve. Hence, all the silk warp threads are interwoven in six complete reciprocations of the shuttle, by six upper cross-lengths of the weft or filler thread.

In Fig. 4, it may be assumed that the weft thread at the extreme left of the figure was produced by the sixth complete reciprocation I of the shuttle, which is-about to perform six additional complete reciprocations, since it may be assumed that the reciprocations of the shuttle may be considered asconsisting of a number of consecutive series, each of said series having six members. I

The top silk warp thread is not engaged by the filler thread until the shuttle has performed the forward movement of its sixth reciprocation. Upon the return movement of the shuttle in said sixth reciprocation, the top silk warp thread is moved below to the level of the corresponding worsted thread (which objectionable because the silk would then-notform a continuous facing to hide the wool.

Of course, it would be immaterial if the worsted warp threads were on top, and the silk warp threads were on bottom, during the actual weaving.

Following the top silk warp thread in Fig. 4, it can be seen that it (and its corresponding thread in the full group of twelve) are interlocked with the weft thread in the sixth succeeding forward movement of the shuttle, without being interlocked or interwoven with the worsted thread. The top silk warp thread (and said corresponding thread) are again interlocked with the weft thread, on the next sixth forward movement of the shuttle,;-w'ithtout being interwoven with the corresponding worsted warp thread.

On the return stroke corresponding to the a next sixth reciprocation of the shuttle, the two silk warp threads are again moved below the corresponding worsted warp thread and again interlocked by the worsted weft thread.

Excluding the weft thread shown at'the extreme left of Fig.4, this illustrates thirty complete reciprocations of the shuttle. During these thirty reciprocations, the weft thread engages the two silk warp threads five times. y

The two silk threads are interlocked with their corresponding worsted warp thread on each eighteenth reciprocation of the shuttle. If the worsted warp threads were interlocked only on each eighteenth reciprocation of the shuttle, then a loose, non-continuous weave would he formed in the worsted warp threads. Hence, a shed is formed in the worsted warp threads upon thereturn strokes of the shuttle so that a serge weave is formed in the worsted warp threads, one-third of said worsted warp threads being interlocked by each return cross-length of the weft thread. 1

The improved fabric thus produced has a tight, continuous silk facing, freefrom any worsted (save the filler) which conceals from view the tightly woven worsted back, said worsted back being interwoven with the silk facing, and being also independently interwoven, to roduce the continuous back.

The clotli diagrammatically illustrated in F ig. 5 is similar to that illustrated in Fig. 4, save that the serge type of weave is formed in both the silk face fabric and in the worsted back fabric.

The cloth diagrammatically illustratedin Fig.6 is formed in a manner similar to that previously described, save that a taffeta type of weave is formed in the silk fabric in which six out of each group of twelve or one-half of the silk warp threads are bound at each forward stroke of the shuttle.

previously shown in connection with Fig. 4.

Fig. 8 illustrates a fabric similar to that diagrammatically. shown in Fig. 7, the silk being woven to form the serge type of i weave.

Fig. 9 illustrates a fabric similar to that shown in Fig. 7, save that the silk is woven to form the atl'eta type of-weave.

Considering for example, the satin type of Weave shown in Fig. 4, each complete stroke of the shuttle causes one-sixth of the silk warp to be bound with the worsted warp orcloth. Hence, after six complete vibrations of the shuttle, the entire group of twelve silk threads in each dent have been bound to one of the lower worsted threads the same dent. The same result is secured in the other weaves illustrated, or in any other type of weave.

The result is an interwoven fabric of silk cloth and worsted cloth, each element of the composite fabric forming a separate piece of cloth interwoven with the other.

While the warp threads may vary in thickness dependent on the purpose for which it is intended, I have found it satisfactory to use No 50/2 ply worsted, (36 ends to the inch) and to use 432 ends of silk to the inch,

"of a three-ply organzine silk, No. 13-15 denier.

The worsted filler may be about No. 30, approximately 100 picks per inch- Hence the rear facing constitutes a continuous fabric, that is, it has the same appearance and properties as though it had been separately woven.

The composite cloth thus formed doesnot wrinkle as quicklyas anysilk cloth, and it has the ornament-a1 appearance of pure silk cloth.

' It has heretofore been proposed to weave a silk cloth having a woolen back or a cotton hack.

However, it is new to so tightly inter-weave .a continuous thin silk facing with a heavy wool back so as'to impart the necessary resistance to wrinkling or crushing to the sllk.

' The improved multiple ply fabric is homoge neous, that is, the silk and wool stretch and bend together, so that the silk is properly reinforced at'all times. This makes thev fabric especially suitable for making necktles or coats, as previously mentioned, or other articles of wearing apparel.

As shown in Figs. 4, 5 and 6, the silk warp threads :are moved below the wool warp threads at regular intervals, so that the silk warp threads are thus interlocked with the woolen warp threads at spaced points along said silk warp threads, namel in a direction parallel to the length of the abric. For example, considering the top silk warp thread in Fig. 4, it is clear that this thread (and the corresponding silk warp thread in its group) are interlocked with one of the worsted warp threads by the same portion of the filler thread which crosses or connects the wool warp threads. This does not occur at every reciprocation of the shuttle, but does occur sufficiently to cause the silk facing to have the appearance of a continuous silk fabric which is sufficiently interlocked with the wool backing to make-the silk as wrinkle-proof as a piece of woven wool fabric. I do not wish to limitthe invention to an absolutely continu ous silk facing, because in fancy weaves, small portions ofthe wool might be exposed without departing from the invention Likewise, whenever I specify silk in the claims, I do not wish to be limited to the use of pure natural silk, as any thin 'crushable material could besubstituted. Likewise, whenever I specify wool in the claims,'I do not wish to be limited to the use of pure natwoven face fabric is then caused to interlock with the back fabric.- This makes it possible to use a much heavier face fabric and a much heavier back fabric. Hence if the composite fabric is used for making a necktie for exeample, no lining or filler is required. Likewise, if a coat is to be made, a sufiiciently heavy fabric can be produced to eliminate the necessity of a lining. The silk face made according to my method can be woven as closely as aseparate silk cloth. In the improved fabric, each thick rear warp thread corresponds to and is interwoven with a group of the thin front warp threads. Sclected members of a succession of such groups of thin warp threads are connected by a length of the weft thread corresponding to a single movement of the shuttle, and said selected men'ibers are interwoven with the rear warp threads by the succeeding length of the weft thread inserted bythe return movement of the shuttle, and said succeeding length also interweaves the rear warp threads. The silk threads utilized are preferably undyed and in the gum so that the shed can be readily formed with minimum interference.

The old fabric having a silk facing and a cotton or wool back had relatively few warp threads per inch, both in the face and of the back, in order to weave it smoothly.- The total number of warp threads and-of filler threads per inch, correspondingto an ordi nary single fabric.

According to my invention, the number of silkwarp threads per inch, the number of worsted warp threads per inch, and the numher of filler ends per inch, separately corresplond to those used in weaving a single heavy fa )ric.

I have shown a preferred embodiment of my invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions can be made without departing from its spirit.

I claim:

1. A fiat homogeneous, multiple-ply fabric for wearing apparel comprising a facing made of silk, said silk facing comprising relatively thin silk warp threads interwoven with filler thread, said fabric also comprising a wool backing comprising relatively thick wool warp threads interwoven with filler thread, the silk warp threads being more numerous than the wool warp threads, said silk facing being substantially continuous to substantially conceal the wool backing, said silk warp threads and said wool warp threads being-sufliciently interwoven by intermediate thread to form a homogeneous fabric in which the silk facing is reinforced by the wool backing so that the entire fabric has the resistance to crushing of the wool backing.

2. A flat, homogeneous, multiple-ply fabric for wearing apparel, comprising a facing made of silk, said silk facing comprising relatively thin silk warp threads interwoven with filler thread, said fabric also comprising a wool backing comprising relatively thick wool Warp threads interwoven with filler thread, the silk warp threads being more numerous than the wool warp threads, said silk facing being substantially continuous to substantially conceal the wool backing, said silk warp threads and said wool warp threads being sufficiently interwoven by intermediate filler thread to form a homogeneous fabric in which the silk facing is reinforced by the wool backing so that the entire fabric has the resistance to crushing of the wool backing.

3. A fiat, homogeneol ls, multiple-ply fabric for wearing apparel, comprising a facing made of-silk, said silk facing comprising relatively thin silk warp threads interwoven with tiller thread, said fabric also comprising a wool backing comprising relatively thick wool warp threads interwoven with filler thread, the silk warp threads being more numerous than the wool warp threads, said silk facing being substantially continuous to substantially conceal the wool backing, said silk warp threads being sufficiently interwoven at spaced points thereof with the wool 'warp threads by the filler thread with which.

warp threads interwoven with filling threads, said backing ply comprising wool warp threads interwoven with wool filling threads SAMUEL SCHWARTZ.

Images