USRE18222E - schwartz - Google Patents

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Publication number
USRE18222E
USRE18222E US18222DE USRE18222E US RE18222 E USRE18222 E US RE18222E US 18222D E US18222D E US 18222DE US RE18222 E USRE18222 E US RE18222E
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Prior art keywords
silk
thread
threads
weave
necktie
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00Neckties
    • A41D25/001Making neckties

Definitions

  • MyV invention' relates to a new and im- 'proveidl necktie and method of making the Same..
  • Another object of my invention is: toprovid'e an. improved necktie having a, faceJ fabric of relatively thzin and expensive material such as silk, and a relatively' cheap and .15. heavy fabric such as' worsted, for example..
  • vAnother object is. to provide a necktie of thisV type which. is. constructed so that it will not loseitsA shape, and can be readiilyvironed.
  • Fig. 1 illustrates a firstembodimentof my inventionemploying that type ⁇ of Weave Which is called' the taffeta weave by the trade.
  • Figs. 2 and 3 illustrate the same weave shown in Fig. I, and they show consecutive stages in the interweaving of the fabrics to form the composite fabric.
  • Figs. 4-6 inclusive are similar to Figs. 1-3 inclusive. They illustrate that type of weave designated by the trade as the Serge type.
  • ⁇ ligs. 7 -9 inclusive are similar to Figs. 1-3. They illustrate'the use of what is known in the 'trade asthe satin weave.
  • Fig. l10 is a rear view of a necktie con- .structed according to the invention.
  • the necktie consists of a Composite fabric which, prefably comprises a silk facing and a worstedl hacking, Which is interwoven with the said silk facing.
  • the weft thread is also .pref- -erably made of'worsted.
  • Warp th-reads S may be considered as being divided into groups each of which cor-L thread orof worsted thread, I have found it Vsuitable to have each silk thread S ⁇ con-sist of three-thread silk of any suitable type such as. that. known in the trade as organzine from. No. 40.-- Denier gage.
  • The' thickness of this ⁇ thread is equal to that of ordi;
  • the worsted thread W is preferably No. -two ply worsted yarn which is warp twisted,l ,having from twenty to twenty-sizturns to the inch.
  • each worsted thread W Will correspond'to a group of ten silk threads S.
  • the taffeta type of weave is employed in which the weft thread W' divides each group of silk threads S into two sub-.groups having equal numbers.
  • the Weft thread W' Apasses between kthe first group of ten silk threads S. so as to vform an upper sub-group of five threads and a lower subgroup of five threads.
  • the said weft thread W' then passes around the first worsted thread W and it continues to form the weave previously mentioned until it has reached the end of the warp.
  • the forward stroke of the shuttle forms what is known as the serge type of weave, in which the weft thread W' engages onethird of the silk threads S.
  • the return weave is also a Serge weave, and the weaving of the fahric is completed with this type of weave in the well known manner, as shown 'in Figs. 5 and 6.
  • the satin type of weave is employed in the forward stroke of the shuttle.
  • the silk threads are divided in groups of ten, and that two threads of each said group of ten are interlaced by the worsted weft thread W', in the V forward stroke of the shuttle.
  • the serge type of weave is also employed in the rearward stroke of the shuttle.
  • the Composite I fabric thus formed is cut into suitahle shape and it is turned and the edges thereof are finished withl a suitable overcast stitch C, as shown in Fig. 10.
  • the illustrations of the weave are diagrammatic, because the worsted weft thread W' is concealed by the silk threads S. That is, in actual practice, successive por-tions of the filler thread are straight, and they are arranged laterally to the length of the cloth.
  • the drawings are intended to merely diagrammatically indicate that the silk facing comprises silk warp threads interwoven with a weft thread, that the wool hacking consists of wool warp threads, interwoven with a weft thread, and that both said layers are sufliciently interlocked or interwoven to impart to the silk face layer the resistance to crushing of the back layer. Numerous well known types of weaves would he eflective for this purpose.
  • the filler is made of worsted material of sufiicient Weight to add about 33% to the weight, thickness and life of the material.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Description

Oct. 6, 1931. s scHwARTz Oct. 25 1928 Re issued Oct. 6, 1931 UNITED; TES
PATENT oFFI-.CE
SAMUEL SGHWART-Z OF ALCBANY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR. T0. SI-WO CORPORATION, .A DOMESTIC CORPORATION OF NEW YORK Original No. 1,741,345, dated December 31, 1929, Serial No. 314,442, filed October 23, 1928. .Application for ressue filed.A June 23,
MyV invention' relates to a new and im- 'proveidl necktie and method of making the Same..
Uno' of the Objects of my invention is to provide. an. improved necktie which shall not.
l :o nomically manufactured.
Another object of my invention is: toprovid'e an. improved necktie having a, faceJ fabric of relatively thzin and expensive material such as silk, and a relatively' cheap and .15. heavy fabric such as' worsted, for example..
vAnother object is. to provide a necktie of thisV type which. is. constructed so that it will not loseitsA shape, and can be readiilyvironed.
Qther objectsof my inveution will be set.
291 foi-'th in the followingdeseription and drawings which ilflustrate a preferred embodiment thereof, it kbeing unde-rstood that the` above general statement of the Objects of my ifnvention is: intended `merely to generally eX- plain the same and not to limit vit in kany manner. A
Fig. 1 illustrates a firstembodimentof my inventionemploying that type `of Weave Which is called' the taffeta weave by the trade. i
Figs. 2 and 3 illustrate the same weave shown in Fig. I, and they show consecutive stages in the interweaving of the fabrics to form the composite fabric.
Figs. 4-6 inclusive are similar to Figs. 1-3 inclusive. They illustrate that type of weave designated by the trade as the Serge type.
`ligs. 7 -9 inclusive are similar to Figs. 1-3. They illustrate'the use of what is known in the 'trade asthe satin weave.
Fig. l10 is a rear view of a necktie con- .structed according to the invention.
It has heretofore .been customary to pro- Wide filler or lining strips for neckties. The 4.5 use of these filler or lining strips adc`l Td to.
19312 SerialV No. 546,399.
the expense ofmaking thenecktie and made v i-t difficult toiron the neckte.
According toy my invention, the necktie consists of a Composite fabric which, prefably comprises a silk facing and a worstedl hacking, Which is interwoven with the said silk facing. The weft thread is also .pref- -erably made of'worsted. Therelatively th-in silk. Warp th-reads S may be considered as being divided into groups each of which cor-L thread orof worsted thread, I have found it Vsuitable to have each silk thread S` con-sist of three-thread silk of any suitable type such as. that. known in the trade as organzine from. No. 40.-- Denier gage. The' thickness of this` thread is equal to that of ordi;
nary 120 cotton thread,v it being -unclerstood that No. 1 cotton thread has 840 yards to *the lpoundf. The worsted thread W is preferably No. -two ply worsted yarn which is warp twisted,l ,having from twenty to twenty-sizturns to the inch. i
I prefer to arrange the silk threads in the upper warp s o that there will be 400. of such threads per inch, while there will be about 40 of the worsted threads W per inch. In other words, each worsted thread W Will correspond'to a group of ten silk threads S.
In the embodiment shown in Figs. 1-3, the taffeta type of weave is employed in which the weft thread W' divides each group of silk threads S into two sub-.groups having equal numbers.
For example, consider-ing Fig. 1, the Weft thread W' Apasses between kthe first group of ten silk threads S. so as to vform an upper sub-group of five threads and a lower subgroup of five threads. The said weft thread W' then passes around the first worsted thread W and it continues to form the weave previously mentioned until it has reached the end of the warp.
Upon the return stroke of the shuttle, that type of weave which is designated in the trade as the serge type is formed. In the Serge type of weave,\tl1e weft thread W' engages one-third of the silk threads S. For example, in the return stroke of the shuttle, it may be'assumed that the silk threads are divided into groups of twelve and that the weft thread W' engages four silk threads out of each said group of twelve. The weft` thread W' passes around each worsted thread W, upon the return stroke thereof. This type of weave is comnleted in the Ordinary manner as shown in Figs. 2 and 3 by causing the weft thread to 'pass around different subgroups of the silk threads, to complete the connection between all the silk threads, and all the worsted threads.
In the emhodiment shown in Figs. a and 6, the forward stroke of the shuttle forms what is known as the serge type of weave, in which the weft thread W' engages onethird of the silk threads S. The return weave is also a Serge weave, and the weaving of the fahric is completed with this type of weave in the well known manner, as shown 'in Figs. 5 and 6.
In the emhodimentl shown in Figs. 7 -9, the satin type of weave is employed in the forward stroke of the shuttle. In this embodiment it may he assumed that the silk threads are divided in groups of ten, and that two threads of each said group of ten are interlaced by the worsted weft thread W', in the V forward stroke of the shuttle. The serge type of weave is also employed in the rearward stroke of the shuttle. The Composite I fabric thus formed is cut into suitahle shape and it is turned and the edges thereof are finished withl a suitable overcast stitch C, as shown in Fig. 10.
The edge' portion of the Vfahric, upon which the stitches C arelocated, are :then connected by suitable transverse stitches C' The Vsaid transverse stitches C' therefore pass vided which keepsv its shape for a long time.V
Silk crus'hes or `wrinkles very easily. ,Worsted is a relatlvely resilient and noncrushable mabe departing ter-ial. Hence, the Composite necktie retains its shape for a long time.
It is to be understood that the illustrations of the weave are diagrammatic, because the worsted weft thread W' is concealed by the silk threads S. That is, in actual practice, successive por-tions of the filler thread are straight, and they are arranged laterally to the length of the cloth. The drawings are intended to merely diagrammatically indicate that the silk facing comprises silk warp threads interwoven with a weft thread, that the wool hacking consists of wool warp threads, interwoven with a weft thread, and that both said layers are sufliciently interlocked or interwoven to impart to the silk face layer the resistance to crushing of the back layer. Numerous well known types of weaves would he eflective for this purpose.
For example, it is not necessary that the hacking should be made wholly of wool, or that the warp threads and the weft threads of the hacking should he made of the same material, as long as a separate lining or filler is unnecessary in the knot-forming portion of the necktie. Hence, whenever I refer to a wool or worstedvbacking, either in the description or in the claims, I do not wish to he limited to a hacking made wholly of wool or of worsted. 1
It will he noted that the filler is made of worsted material of sufiicient Weight to add about 33% to the weight, thickness and life of the material.
I prefer to cut the composite material made as previously described, on the hias, in forming the necktie.A This renders the com osite material practically non-crushable. t is particularly advantageous to eliminate the use off a separate lining or*filler,'because the n-ecktie can be pressed and dry-cleaned vas Voften as desired and stains can bev removed therefroin. Since the material is cut on the hias', it is stretchahle' Likewise, the stitches C' can stretch because'they pass through the loops of the overcast stitches. It would not from the invention if said stitches C' penetrated the extremeredges of the fahric because said finishing stitches C' could still stretch.
Likewise, the ahsence ofa projecting seam, makes it easy to iron the necktie;
I have shown a-'preferred emhodiment of my invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions can be made without departing from the spirit'of my invention.
I claim: A
1. A necktie made of a'composite'fahric having a face fahric of relatively crushable material and a hacking of relatively noncrushahle material which is interwoven with said face fabric, said fahric being sufliciently heavy to make a separate filler piece unnecessary, said necktie having its edges stitched together.
2. A necktie made of a Composite fabric having a face fabric of relatively crushable material and a hacking of relatively noncrushable material which is interwoven With 5 said face fabric by relatively non-crushable thread, said necktie having its edges: stitched together.
3. A neektie made of a Composite fabrie having a silk facing and a Wool hacking interw Woven With said silk facing, the edges of said necktie being stitched together.
4. A necktie made of'a Composite fabric .having a silk facing and a Wool backing inter- Woven With said silk facing by Wool thread,
1;, the edges of said neckte being stitched together.
In testimony Whereof, I aflix my signature.
SAMUEL SCHWARTZ.
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