US1696893A - Bttttonholb-bbwino machine - Google Patents

Bttttonholb-bbwino machine Download PDF

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US1696893A
US1696893A US1696893DA US1696893A US 1696893 A US1696893 A US 1696893A US 1696893D A US1696893D A US 1696893DA US 1696893 A US1696893 A US 1696893A
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buttonhole
cam
stitch
work
bar
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B3/00Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/06Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for sewing buttonholes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B73/00Casings
    • D05B73/04Lower casings
    • D05B73/12Slides; Needle plates

Definitions

  • 4o objects of my present invention is to provide Patented Dee. 25,1928.
  • This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines of that type adapted to sew a buttonhole with an eye at one end and it has particular reference to means for forming the bar at the end of the button hole Opposite tothe eye.
  • This bar is sometimes formed by a line of stitching extending lengthwise of the buttonhole and beyond the buttonhole slit.
  • the cam by which the stitch-forming mechanism and. workholding means are positioned for forming the bar has been formed as an integral part of the main cam which controls the feeding of the work during the stitching and the lateral shifting of the work necessary to form the eye of the buttonhole,- and has been without any adjustment for different lengths of buttonholes.
  • Each machine therefore, has been adapted to make a bar ofthis type on a buttonhole of one size only and if it is desired to make a bar of this type on a different size of buttonhole it has been necessary to build another machine especially adapted for such other size.
  • buttonshole sewing machines adapted to sew a buttonhole having the aboveqnentioned type of bar with w a removable and interchangeable cam by which the length of the buttonhole is determined.
  • this type of sewing machine there will be one of these interchangeable cams for each length of buttonhole and when- 'ever it is desired ,to change the length of buttonhole it is necessary toremove the cam from the machine and replace it byanother, cam of the roper construction to make a buttonhole of the length desired.
  • buttonsholes of dif ferent lengths y merely being adjusted as to their position.
  • I provide a barring cam which is separate from the main cam and which is associated with the adjustment by which the len th of the buttonhole is determined so that w enever adjustment is made to give a longer or shorter buttonhole the barrlng cam is simultaneously adjusted to produce properly the desired ar on the longer or shorter buttonhole.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide an Improved structure for forming a bar of the, a ove ty e which is so constructed that the length of t e bar may be changed or adwsted without adjusting the. length of the buttonhole.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a buttonhole sewing machine of this type which is constructed so that the barring mechanism can be rendered inoperative if it is desired to sew an unfinished buttonhole without the bar.
  • Fig. 1 is a side view of a sewing machine so embodying my'invention
  • Fi 2 is a bottom plan view of the bed and of t e frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism
  • Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view showing the an adjustment for the length of the buttonhole
  • Fig. 4 is a view of the barring cam
  • FIG. 5 is a view of the under side of the. maincamy
  • Fig. 6 is a view of the upperside of the no main cam showing the feeding cam groove
  • Fig. -7 is a f'ra mentary sectional view showing the controlling means bywhich the length of the buttonhole is determined; ig. 8 is a fragmentary'sectional view showing the position of the pins 47, 48 during these'wing around the eye of the buttonhole'; Fig. 9 is a section on the line 9+9, Fi 2; Fig. 10 indicates a partially-comp eted buttonhole'; y
  • Figs. 11 and 12 show buttonholes of difi'erwith a bar;
  • Fig. 13 shows a buttonhole without the bar-
  • Fig. 1a shows a buttonhole with a short bar.
  • Figs. 10 to '12 show the well known type of buttonhole such as is made by the. machine to which the present invention relates and in said figures 1 is the buttonhole slit having at one end the eye 2, and 3 and 4 indicate the side stitching along the sides of the button hole, this stitching being carried around the eye 2.as shown at 5, all as usual in buttonholes of this type.
  • the end of the buttonhole opposite the eye 2 is provided with a bar 6 and one or two lines of stitching 7, 8 which extend in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and are more or less superposed on each other, these lines of stitching being usually in the line .of the buttonhole slitl.
  • the stitching In sewing a buttonhole of this type the stitching usually begins at the point 9, (see Fig. 1-O) and during the firstfeedingmovement the barring stitches 7 are formed.
  • the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism are iven arelativelateral movement so that as the ceding movement is continued the stitches 3 along one side of the buttonhole will be formed.
  • the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means are given a back and forth lateral movement and at the same time the stitch-forming mechanism is turned about a vertical axis thereby forming the stitches 5 around the eye 2.
  • the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means are then given a reverse feeding movement to form the stitches a along the opposite side of the buttonhole and when the point 10 has been reached the stitch-forming mechanism relative lateral movement so that durin the continued feeding movement the barring stitches 8 are formed which are more or less superposed on the barring stitches 7. This produces the bar 6 at which extends in the direction of. the length of the buttonhole.
  • buttonsholes of different sizes and having the abovementioned type of bar may be'sewed on the same machine without removin any parts and simply by making proper a justment of the parts already on the machine.
  • buttons of ditierent sizes having this type of bar may be sewed on thesame machine by making proper adjustments.
  • the work-holding means and the stitchforming mechanismof the sewing machine herein illustrated are such as are commonly found in buttonhole sewing machines of this type.
  • the work-holding means comprises the usual work clamps 11 which are pivotally mounted and adapted to clamp the work against clamp plates 12 that are supported on the bed 13 of the sewing machine.
  • the stitchforming mechanism comprises the usual needle 14.- operating from above the work and the usual under thread situated beneath the bed plate and which is mounted on a turret 15 and which co-operates with the needle to concatenate the edge stitches around the buttonhole.
  • the stitch-forming mechanism is mounted .on and carried by a head or frame 16 and is actuated from the drive shaft 17 journalled in said head all as usual insewing machines of this type.
  • a head or frame 16 For convenience I will refer to the frame 16 on which the stitch-forming mechanism is mounted as the stitch-frame and will refer to the bed 13 on which the work-holding means is mounted as the workframe.
  • the relative movement between the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means is secured by moving the stitch frame 16 on the bed or work-frame of the machine all as shown in United States Patents No. 488,028, December 13th, 1892, and No. 494,280, March 28th, 1893.
  • the stitch frame 16 carrying the stitch-forming mechanism has rigid therewith a cam casing 18 in which is rotatably mounted the main cam. 19 by which the operations of the machine are controlled, one of the functions of this cam being to give back and forth feeding movement to the stitch frame 16.
  • the main cam has a feed groove 20 therein in which operates a roll carried by the lower end of a pin 21 that handling mechanism is fast to the bed frame or work-frame 13, the Y construction being such that as the cam 19 rotates said cam and consequently the stitch frame 16 isgiven a bodily back and forth movement all as more fully set forth in the above-mentioned patents.
  • This comprises a lever 56 pivoted to the gear casing 18 at 110 and connected by a link 111 to an arm 112 fast on a rock shaft 113.
  • This rock shaft has fast on it two gear sectors 114, 115 which mesh with gears 116 on the turret 15 and 117 on the carrier for theupper needle 14.
  • This lever 56 has a follower 119 operating in a cam groove 118 in the under side of the cam 19 all as illustrated in said patent, said cam causing the stitch-forming mechanism to make a rotation at each end of the button'hole.
  • the clutch comprises a clutch dog 127 by which the pulley is connected to the shaft '17 and which dog is pro vided with a tail 23 and that the clutch is controlled I by a clutch-controlling member 24 fast on a rock shaft 25, said member hava ing a clutch-releasing portion 26 by which the clutch is disengaged.
  • the member 24 When the stitchforming mechanism is in operation the member 24 is held in its inoperative position shown in 7 by means of a latch 27 engaging a lug 28 on an arm 29 fast on the rock shaft 25 and when the member 24 is in this position the clutch-releasing member 26 is outof the path of movement of the tail 23 of the dog and the clutch will thus operate to clutch the shaft 17 to the drivin pulley 22,- If the latch 27 is released from t e lug 28 the spring 29 will swing the controlling member 24 forwardly to bring the clutch-releasing member 26 in the path of movement of the tail 23 of the clutch dog thereby disengaging the clutch and bringing the shaft 17 to rest, all as described in the above-mentioned Patent No. 713,764. 7 f
  • the machine herein shown is also provided with the usual means for. determining the length of the buttonhole and by means of which the length of the buttonhole may be adjusted.
  • the mechanism herein shown for this purpose is similar to that illustrated in above-mentioned Patent No. 713,764.
  • the rock shaft 25 has fast thereon an arm 31 to which is connected a link 32 having at its lower end a roll 33-
  • the link is normally held in the position shown in Fig. 1 by means of a latch 34.
  • the clutch-releasing bar 30 is-provided with a low portion 35 which is situated-beneath the roll 33 when the machine has come to rest at the end of a sewing cycle and said bar is also provided with the rise or cam 36 that is adapted to be engaged by the roll 33 when the. stitch-frame 16 moves to the right.
  • Fig. 1 The parts are shown in Fig. 1 in buttonhole cutting position, which is the position they occupy at the end of the sewing cycle and ing at this time disengagedfrom the lug 28 and the clutch-releasing member 26 being in its operative position.
  • the point in the movement of the head 16' at which the stitch-forming mechanism is set in operation depends uponthe location of the cam 36 and the bar 30 is adjustably secured to the bed or workframe 13 so that the positionof the cam 36 may be varied; If the bar 30 is moved to when the machine is at rest, the latch 27 .be-
  • the barring cam by which the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism are given a relative lateral movement at the end-of the buttonhole slit to form the barring stitches 7, .8 in the line of the buttonhole slit is carried by the main cam 19.
  • I. dissociate said barring cam from the main cam 19 and mount it independently of said cam 19 and also provide for its adjustment so that it will function properly when making buttonholes of any length.
  • I preferably mount the barring cam on the work frame 13 and associate it with the adjusting member 30 by which the length of the buttonhole is adjusted so that whenever an adjustment is made to change the length of the but- LUIlhOlG the position of the barring cam will be simultaneously adjusted whereby said barring cam will always function properly regardless of the adjustment for the buttonhole length.
  • the barring cam herein shown is indicated at 37 and it is in the form of a plate which is secured to the under side of the bed 13 and is adjustably secured to the forward end 38 of the bar 30 by means of a screw 39 which extends through a slot 40 formed in the bed plate.
  • a screw 39 which extends through a slot 40 formed in the bed plate.
  • bracket arm 45 having ahead portion 46 in
  • the barring cam is shown as having two camigrooves 41, 42, each of which has an offset or cam portion 43 therein as best seen in Fig; 4.
  • the portion 44 of the frame 16 in which the turret 15 is mounted is provided with a which is slidably mounted two pins 47, 48
  • pin 48 is operating in its cam groove 42 dur-, ing' the stitching on one side of the button-- hole, the other pin 47 being at this time withdrawn from engagement with the cam plate as shown in Figs. land 9, and said other pin 47 is operating in its cam groove 41 during the sewing on the second side of the buttonhole, the pin 48 being at this time withdrawn.
  • the engagement'of the pin with the walls of the groove will prevent any lat-- eral movement of the stitch-forming mechanism, and the position ofthe stitch-forming mechanism laterally will be controlled by said pin.
  • pins 47, 48 operate successively as stated above, one pin being operative during the stitohingon one side of the buttonhole and the other pin being operative during the stitching on the other side of the buttonhole. Said pins, therefore, control the position of the stitch-forming mechanism in a lateral dimotion during the formation of the barring stitches and side stitches on the buttonhole.
  • the stitch-forming mechanism has a lateral movement during the stitching around the eye 5 of the buttonhole, which lateral movement is cont-rolled by the sinuous cam groove 54 co-operat-ing with the lever 55 and, therefore, I have provided herein means to render both pins 47, 48 inoperative at the time that the eye of the buttonhole is being sewed so that the control of the head or frame 16 as to its lateral motion will at this time be transferred from the pins to the cam groove 54.
  • Means are also provided to render one pin operative during the sewing on one side of the buttonhole and the other pin operative during the sewing on the other side of the buttonh le.
  • the pins are controlled by arms or levers 79,80 which are pivoted on a stud 81 carried by the bracket 45.
  • the forward end of the arm 79 is received in a groove 73 formed in the lower projecting end of the pin 47' and the forward end of the arm 80 is received in a similar groove 52 formedin the lower end of the pin48.
  • Each arm is acted on by'a link 62 Slides, said link havin spring 83 which normally tends to move the pins upwardly into] engagement with the grooves of the cam plate 37.
  • the arm 80 has rigid therewith anarm '63 which is connected by a link '62 to an extension 58 rigid with the lever 56 by which the stitch-forming mechanism is turned about its vertical axis.
  • the arm or lever 79 is fast on a sleeve 61 mounted on a'stud 81 and said sleeve has ri id therewith an arm whichis connected y a link 59 to'another pro'eotion cream 57 also rigid with the lever 56 ut situated on the opposite side thereof from the projection or ear 58.
  • connection between the link '62 and the arm 58 is such as to permit the arm 80' buttonhole the lever 56 is moved into the dotted line position Fig. 2, thus allowing the arm 79 to move upwardly and its spring 83 will bring the pin 47 against the cam plate 37.
  • said pin comes inline with its groove 41 by the lateral shifting movement of the stitch-forming mechanism said pin depresses the" will drop intothe :gro ove'41 and thereafter during the furthermovement of the head 16 the movement of the stitch-forming mecha nism laterally will be'governed by the-cam groove41.
  • mg cam 36 is ,adjustably secured to the portion 38 to which the barringcam is secured by theclampin screw 39.-
  • the part 38 is shown as rovi edwitha slot 131 in which is receive a screw 132. Ea'rri'ed by the for ward end of the part 30; When this screw .132- is loosened the barring cam may be shifted forwardly relativeto the rt 30 and such adjustment may be made t at by the time the roll 33 reaches and engages the starting cam 36 the pins .47, 48 will have. been carried past the cam portion 43 of the barring cam. When this condition obtains there will no I be no lateral jogging motion of. the stitchforming mechanism such as is indicated at the point 10 in Fig.10'and'as a result a but tonhole such as shown in Fig; .13 will be formed.
  • a lever 133 which is pivoted at 134 to the part 38, said lever having a forked end 135 which engages a pin 136 rising from the .end of the part 30.
  • Fig-14 I have shown a buttonhole having a short bar.
  • the barring cam may be adjusted so that it will be rendered operative at such a point in the cycle of movement that only three or four stitches will be formed before the point 10 of the buttonhole is reached and the head is given its lateral movement to shift from barring stitches to side stitches or the barring cam may be adjusted into ]position where a relatively long bar wi 1 be formed as shown in Fig. 12.
  • the adjustment for the length of the bar is quite independent from that for the length of stitches so that a bar of any desired length or no bar at all ma be formed on a buttonhole of any desired ength.
  • the combination with work-hol ing means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a stitch-frame oar ing the stitch-forming mechanism, a .wor -frame car 'ng the work-holding means, means carried by the stitch-frame to unease give said I work-holding means and stitchormmg mechanism a relative feeding movement longitudinally of the buttonhole, means carried by the work-frame to cause said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism to have a relative lateral movement after the first few stitches have been formed and again just before the last stitches have been formed thereby to form a bar extending in the direction of the length of the buttonhole.
  • the combination with work-hol ing means, of stitch-forming mechanism, means to give said work-holdingmeans and stitch-forming mechanism arelative movement of fixed amplitude longitudinally of the buttonhole, adjustable means for controlling the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism by which button holes of different lengths may be formed, and other means adjustable with said last-named means to produce a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holdin meansto form at the end of' the buttonho e a bar extending in the direction of the length thereof.
  • a buttonhole sewin'gmachine the combination with a stitch-frame, of a, workframe, stitch-forming mechanismcarried by the stitch-frame, work-holding means carried by the work-frame, a rotar cam carried by the stitch-frame for ivingt e stitch-forming lUu mechanism and wor -ho1ding means a relative feeding movement longitudinall ofthe buttonhole, a non-rotary 'camcarrie by the work-frame for giving the stitch-forming 1 'fr ame, stitch-formin mechanism carried by the stitch-frame, wor -holding means carried by the work frame, a rotarycam carried by to iorma bar at Y the stitcl1-frame for giving the stitch-formfeeding movement thereby to form a bar at ing mechanism and Work-holding means a the end of the buttonhole, said barring cam relative feeding movement longitudinally of being adjustable whereby the length of the 10 the buttonhole, a non-rotary cam carried by bar may be varied. 5

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
US1696893D 1927-06-20 Bttttonholb-bbwino machine Expired - Lifetime US1696893A (en)

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GB16312/27A GB285710A (en) 1927-06-20 1927-06-20 Improvements in or relating to buttonhole sewing machines

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DE (1) DE512205C (fr)
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GB (1) GB285710A (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4181084A (en) * 1977-12-30 1980-01-01 Elitex, Koncern Textilniho Strojirenstvi Buttonhole bar tacker sewing machine with a device for controlling the buttonhole length terminated by a wedge bar tack

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4181084A (en) * 1977-12-30 1980-01-01 Elitex, Koncern Textilniho Strojirenstvi Buttonhole bar tacker sewing machine with a device for controlling the buttonhole length terminated by a wedge bar tack

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FR638653A (fr) 1928-05-31
GB285710A (en) 1928-02-23
DE512205C (de) 1930-11-10

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