US1696438A

US1696438A - Assig-nob

Info

Publication number: US1696438A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1928-12-25
Anticipated expiration: 1945-12-25

Description

Dec; 25, 1928, 11,696,438

J. KIEWICZ SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig.2..

lnvenior. John Kiewicg WWWJKW AITys.

Dec. 25, 1928. 1,696,438 7 J. KIEWICZ sEwIfie MACHINE Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets- Sheet 3 Fig.3.

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John Kiewicg MMJIW SEWING M INE FilBd 9' 7' InVenTOT: zkJohn Kie icg b) WW1? Anya bec.,25, 192s.

J. KlEWlCZ SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 Fig. 10.

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sIurI of overlying sfiiches W Dec- 25 Y J. KIEWICZ SEWING MACHINE 7 Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets-Sheet '1 Fig.13.

end of ufiderying smches \nvenTo'r. I John Kievvicg Dec. 25, 1928. 3,696,438

J. KIEWICZ SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 lnvenTor.

John Kiewicg bYMW IW Aflyschines of this type,

Patented .Eec. 25 i928.

tJNETED JCHN KIEWICZ, F BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIG'NOR Ti) THE BEEGE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORFORATION OF MAINE.

SERVING MACHINE.

Application filed August 19, 1922. Serial No. 583,010.

This invention relates to sewing machines of that type which are used for inserting a line of reinforcing stitches to stay or reinforce fabric at any given point, such for instance as at the ends of buttonholes or across the ends of pocket openings in garments. Sewing machines of this type are commonly referred to in the trade as tackers and they are frequently constructed so that the reinforcing stitches inserted at each operation comprise a group of stitches side by side, and which may be conveniently referred to as the underlying stitches, and a second group of stitches which overlie the stitches of the first group and which extend transversely thereof. For convenience the stitches of the second group may be referred to as the overlying stitches.

These sewing machines are frequently constructed so as to permit of varying the length of the underlying stitches to produce a longer or shorter reinforcement as circumstances require.

One of the important objects of my pesent invention is to provide a sewing machine of this type which is constructed so that the number of the overlying stitches may be varied for any given length of underlying stitches thereby providing for varying the spacing of said overlying stitches.

Another object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of this type in which the number of the over-lying stitches may be varied proportionately to the va 'iation in the length of the underlying stitches, so that a uniform spacing of the overlying stitches may be secured regardless of the length of the underlying stitches. By this means a. tack or reinforcement of uniform appearance but varying in length may be produced.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machine of this type by which the number of the overlying stitches can be varied without varying the length of the underlying stitches thus providing for placing the overlying'stitches nearer to or further from each other depending on the character of the reinforcement it is desired to make.

Other objects of the invent-ion. are to provide various improvements in sewing maall as will be more fully hereinafter set forth.

In order to give an understanding of my invention, I have illustrated in the drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now be described after which the novel features will he pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings Fig. 1, is a side view of a sewing machine embodying my invention.

Fig. 2 is top plan view with the overhanging arm broken away.

Fig. 3 is an under side view.

Figs. 4 and 5 are sectional views on substantially the line 4l, Fig. 3, showing the parts in different positions.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 6-6,

Fig. 7 is a detail view of the feeding mecha nism for feeding the work during the formation of the overlying stitches.

Fig. 8 is a view of the feed pawl.

F 9'is a sectional view through the feed pawl.

Fig. 10 is a section on the line 1010, Fig. 3.

Fig. 11 is a detail of the cam for giving movement to the work during the formation of the underlying stitches.

Fig. 12 is a detail of the cam for giving vibrating movement to the work during the formation of the overlying stitches.

Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic view showing the character of the sewing operation performed by the machine.

Figure 1 1 is a view of some of the parts by which the work holder is moved during the formation of the underlying stitches.

Fig. 15 is a view similar to Fig. 14, but showing the feed cam adjusted for the formation of the underlying stitches.

Fig. 16 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the operation of the ratchet for maintaining the machine in operation.

Fig. 17 is a view of the lever 74 and the ratchet for holding it.

Fig. 18 is a detailed view of the shown in Fig. 16.

Fig. 19 is a view similar to Fig. 13', but showing a different form of reinforcement.

Fig. 20 is a view similar to Fig. 11, showing the cam adapted to make the reinforcement illustrated inFig. 19.

Before describing the machine it will perhaps be helpful to refer briefly to the character of the stitch which is made by the ma chine. This is shown in Fig. 13 and it comprises a group of long stitches 1, placed side by side and a second group of cross stitches 2 which overlie the stitches 1 and extend transversely thereof. The stitches 1 may conparts veniently be referred to as the underlying stitches and the stitches 2 may coin eniently be referred to as the overlying stitches. A sewing machine the type herein illustrated is constructed to form at one operation the group of underlying stitches 1 and tc h of overlying stitches 2, said macl arranged to automatically come to rest when the stitches 2 have been completed.

The sewing machine herein shown is formed with a base frame 3 on which the work is supported and which has risire; therefrom the usual overhanging m =4: m which rec iprocates a needle bar 5 carrying the needle 6. The sewing machine a twothread sewing machine and the under thread is carried by a bobbin and is concatenated with the upper thread by means of a h ook or shuttle indicated 'enerallv at which may be either of the rotary or scillatory type all as usual in sewing nmchines.

The needle bar and the hook are actuated from a driving shaft 8. Said shaft is shown as having an eccentric 9 thereon which is connected through an arm 10 to an oscillating lever 11 that in turn is connected at its outer end to the needle bar. The hook *4" is given its movement through a rocking member 12 that is connected by link 13 to an eccentric or cam on the shaft 8. These parts may have any suitable construction and form no part of the present invention.

The work to in which the tack or stay is to be formed is held in a wori; clamp comprising two clamping

jaws

14 and 15. The under jaws 14: are formed on the ends of arms 16 which carry posts 17 and the upper jaws are also formed on the ends of arms 18, which are pivotally mounted on the posts as shown at 19. The jaws are yieldin 'ly held in clamping engagement with the work through the medium of a spring 20, which is situated between the ends of the

arms

16 and 18.

The needle 6 reciprocates in a fixed position and the stitches are formed by a vibrating movement of the work clamp. The clamping jaws 1 's and 15 are given a transverse vibrating movement to form the undcrlying stitches 1 and are given a fore-and-aft movement as well as a slow transverse feeding movement to form the overlying stitches 2.

I have stated above that one of the features of the present invention relates to a construction by which the number of the overlying stitches 2 can be varied either n'oportionatcly to or independent of the length of the underlying stitches.

The means for giving the vibrating movev ment to the work holder during the formation of the underlying stitches 1, comprises a rotary cam 21, having a plurality of high. portions 22, and a plurality of low port is 23, said cam acting against a roll 24L carried on a lever 25 pivoted to the machine frame at 26. This lever has a thrust rod 2'? connector thereto wnich is slidable through and is guided by a stud 28 and which bears against an arm 29 of an elbow lever pivoted to the 70 frame at 30. The other arm 31 of said elbow lever pivotally connected to a link 32 which in. turn is slidably secured to the under side of the work clamp as shown at 33 The link is acted upon by a pulling s n" a" which functions to hold the arm 29 a ainst the thrust rod 2? and also to maintain the roll 2% in contact with the cam 21. The r or end of the work clamo carries a pin or post which extends into an opening in a lever 36 pivoted to the frame at e? and adapted to have foreand-aft swinging movement thereby to give the work holder its fOlO-fll1 l"l1 t movement. During the formation of the underlying stitches. however this lever is stationary and, 5 therefore the vibrating movement of the

elbow lever

29, 31 will give the work clamp a transverse swinging movement about the post as a pivot. lV hen the cam 21 operates to bring a high portion 22 thereof under the roll 2% then the

elbow lever

29, 31 will be moved into the position shown in Fig. 1 1: by the thrust rod 27 thereby to move the work holder to the left Fig. 2, and when a low portion of saic cam comes under the roll the spring will move the work h or to the right. thus giving the necessary jogging movement to form the underlying stitches.

Provision is made for adjusting he long of the underlying stitches by adjusting it position of the stud 28. This stud occiipien a slot 128 formed in the bed are and ca be moved longitudine 1 slot thereb to place the thrust rod ther from the pivot 30. This stir in adjusted position by means screw 129. The thrust rod amplitude of movement but by sh" thrust rod nearer to or further fron 30, the amplitude of movement given to the llO elbow lever and thereby to the wok clamp can be varied, thus producing 101 g 1 or shorter stitches Means are provided for actuating 21 when the machine is set in ope!" then for rendering said cam inoperative a the underlying stitches 1 hav bee" and while the overlyi 'tches are This cam 21 is looselv nounted o cal stud 38 depending from the bed i. rash, Said stud also hat a sleeve 138 rotatively mounted thereon on which is forniez,

40, which meshes with is i a worm 39 on the shaft 8. This w 40 and the worm 39 are thus continuously rotated while the machine is in operation.

Means are provided for connecting sleeve 138 to the cam 21 at the. hepinn o; the stitching operation, thereby torotaic cam 21 to form the underlying stitches,

for disrupting said driving connection, so that the cam 21 comes to rest after the underlying stitches 1 have been completed and while the sleeve continues its rotative movement during the formation of the overlying stitches.

The driving connection between the sleeve 138 and the cam 21, comprises a ratchet l which is rigid with the worm and a pawl 12, which co-operates with the ratchet and is pivotally mounted on the cam 21, said pawl being acted upon by a spring a3 which tends to hold it in operative engagement with the ratchet. hlormally. said pawl is in engagement with the ratchet so that. as the sleeve 138 is rotated clockwise Fig. 11 the cam 21 will be carried with it. Wher the cam has made one complete rotation thereby forming the underlying stitches 1, the pawl 42 is disengaged from the ratchet so as to render the cam 21 inoperative. After this occurs the sleeve 133 continues its rotative movement while the overlying stitches are being formed. This is accomplished by a finger or arm 4.4 which is pivotally mounted on the frame at 4.5 and is acted upon by a spring 46 tending to move it from the full to the dotted line position Fig. 10.

lVhen the machine is at rest and before it is started said pawl-disengaging arm 4 1 is held in its inoperative or full line position, but as soon as the machine is started in operation and the cam 21 begins to turn said finger is brought into its operative or dotted line position, Figs. 10 and 11 so that when the cam :21 completes its rotation the tail of the pawl will engage the finger and thereby become disengaged from the ratchet 4.1., as shown in dotted lines Fig. 11.

The arm 44: is held in its inoperative position by scans of a rod 17 extending from an arm 48 that fast on a rock shaft 49 forming part of the starting and stopping mechanism. So far as the present invention is concerned there is nothing new in this starting and stopping mechanism and it may be of any preferred type. That herein shown includes the rock shaft a9 and other suitable devices constructed so that when the rock shaft is turned anti-clockwise l the driving belt-'will be shifted from the loose pulley (not shown) to the fast pulley 131.

The arm 48 is shown having an extension 50 to which connected a link 51 that leads to a starting treadle whereby when the treadle is depressed it will move the link 51 and extension 50 downwardly from the position shown in l to that shown in Fig. 5 thereby turning the rock shaft 19 and shifting the belt onto the fast pulley Til- 1. This starts the machine in opeinuion. ll hen the treadle has been depressed to start the machine the arm 50 will be loclted in its lowered position shown in 5 until the stitcl ing is completed at which time said arm is released and the starting and stopping mechanism is then moved into the position shown in Fig. 4 by means of a spring 52 thereby carrying the driving belt from the fast to the loose pulley.

The arm 50 carries a pawl 53 which is pivoted thereto at 54 and is acted upon by a spring 55 that normally holds it against a stop 56. When the arm 50 is pulled downwardly by the treadle in starting the machine this pawl engages a shoulder 57 (see Fig. 16) thereby locking the arm 50 in its depressed condition and maintaining the ma chine in operation. At the end of the stitcl1 ing operation the arm 50 is released thus allowing the machine to come to rest as will be presently described.

After the underlying stitches 1 have been formed as above described then the work holder is given a fore-andaft movement to form the overlying stitches 2 and is also given a feeding movement to carry the overlying stitches from one end to the other of the underlying stitches.

One feature of my invention relates to means for controlling the number of the overlying stitches in such a way that said number may be varied either proportionately to orindependently of the length of the underlying stitches. Where the number of the overlying stitches varies proportionate ly to the length of the underlying stitche then the overlying stitches will always have the same spaced relation regardless of the length of the underl}. 'ing stitches while by varying the number of the overlying stitches independently of the length of the underlying stitches the spacing of the overlying stitches may be varied. I regard this feature as of considerable importance because it pro vides for making reinforcements or bars at the end of a buttonhole of different lengths but all of a uniform appearance owing to the uniform spacing of the overlying stitches.

The fore-and-aft movement of the work holder is secured by an oscillating movement of the lever 36 to which the rear end of the work clamp is secured by means of the pin 35. This lever 36, which it will be remembered is pivoted to turn about a vertical 37, bears at its free end against an arm 58 extending from a. sleeve 59 that is loosely mounted on the cross shaft 60 ans is capable of turning thereabout as well as sliding longitudinally thereof. This arm 58 carries a roll 61 (see Fig. 12) which is adapted to be actuated by a cam 62 that is rotatable about a stud 63 and has rigid therewith a gear 64 meshing with and d iven by a gear 65 faston the driving shaft 8.

The sleeve 59 is, as stated above, slidably mounted on the shaft 60 and during the formation of the underlying stitches said sleeve is positioned so that the roll 61 is out of engagement with the cam 62. At this time the arm 58 rests against and is positioned by a stop screw 132 which is screvs t ireaded through the bed plate 3 and is provided with a pointed end 133, th for) for the upper end of the the underlying stitches h i then the sleeve 52 is shifted to lr'ii 61 into the path of the cam 6:3 and will, therefore, act on the arm 58.

When the sleeve is in posi ion to have the roll 61 acted on by the cam 62 said roll is ield against the cam face by means of a spr ng 3 which acts again?- rue lower end the pin and, therefore, serves to hold the lever 86 against the arm and also to hold the roll 61 against the face of the cam 62. The joint operation of the cam and the spring 66 causes the arm and lever 36 to be vibrated as the cam 62 rotates, s vibration being transmitted to the clamps through the pin 35. The 64; have a two-to-one relation so that at one p -nctmt ing thrust of the needle the work c moved forward and at. the next p thrust it is moved bacl work the necessary o f form the overlying stitc i 3 2.

The lever 86 is slotted at its end, as shown at 6'7, and a stud 68 is adjustably carried in said slot and bears against the arm The arm 58 always has th same a *ilitude movement but by adjusting the stud (38 up and down in the slot 67 theamplitude of movement given to tl e lever 36 and work clamp can be varied thereby varying the length of the overlying stitches 2.

l have statedv above that the slee arm 58 were retained in inoperativ p os with the roll 61 out of the path of the cam 62 while the underlying stitches are l n e1 formed, but that as soon as said underlyi a stitches are completed said sleeve 59 is shifted on the sha t to bring the roll 61 into operative engagen'ient with the cam Th sleeve 59 is formed with a forked extension ('39, between the arms of which is received a lever '70 pivoted to the frame at 71 and acted on by a pulling spring ,'2 that normally tends to move it toward the right in 3. During the formation of the underlyiistitches said lever is retained in the full, l, position 3 by engagement with a stop shoulder 73 formed on a resiliei which is secured at on end to the .7 shown at 7 The resiliency of this arm 7%: permits it to be moved downwardly at th proper time to withdraw the shoulder from engagement with the lever and when this occurs the spring 72 swi. s the lever 70 to the right Fig. 3 thereby movin he sleeve 59 on the rod or shaft 60 and ca ,nng the roll 61 into the path of the cam 62. This operation occurs just as the underlyingstitchforming cam 21 is rendered inoperative by the disengagement of the pawl l2 with the ratchet 41, and is controlled by a cam member 76 which is rigid with the cam member 21 and rotates therewith, both cams being fixed on a sleeve 238 which is loosely mounted on the stud 38 and extends through the sleeve 138; The cam member 76 has a cam projection 77' that is adapted to engage the end of the resilient arm 74: at the proper time in the cycle of operations thereby to depress the same and withdraw the stop shoulder 73 from the lever 70. This cam projection is so positioned relative to the pawl 12 that it will wipe over and depress the arm 7-1 just before the pawl is disengaged from the ratchet 4:1 and, therefore, when the

connected cams

21 and 76 come to rest after the'pawl 42 is thus disengaged the projection 77 will be in substantially the position shown in Fig. The cam '76 and cam 21 remain stationary in this position while the cam 62 is operative in forming the overlying stitches 2 and until the machine is brought to rest at the end of the sewing operation at which time the finger 14-. is retracted from its engagement with the pawl 42 by the stop motion so that said pawl drops into engagement with the ratchet 41 ready for operation when the machine is again started. During each cycle of operations the

connected cams

21 and 76 make one complete rotation during the formation of the underlving stitches and then are brought to rest during the formation of the overlying stitches.

will thus be observed that in my present machine there is one cam for giving move ment to the work holder for forming the long underlying stitches, and a separate cam for giving movement to the work holder for forming the shorter overlying stitches, and it will also be observed that the latter cam is inoperative during the formation of the underlying stitches and that when said stitches are completed the cam forming them is rendered inoperative while the other cam is automatically rendered operative to cause the formation of the overlying stitches.

During the formation of the overlying stitches th work holder has a slow feeding movement in the direction of the underlying stitches and this feeding movement is controlled by a feeding cam which is separate from the stitch-forming

cams

21 and 62. Said feeding cam is inoperative while the underlying stitches 1 are being formed but becomes automatically operative during the formation of the overlying stitches 2, This feed cam is indicated at 78 and is in the form of a spiral rib on a sleeve 79 which is loosely mounted on a cross shaft or red 80. This sleeve 7 9 has connected thereto one end of a spiral spring 81, the other end of said spring being anchored in a collar 82 fast on the rod 80.

The spiral cam rib 78 co-operates with a shoe 83 carried by a projection 84 extending from the link 32 to give the desired feeding movement to the work holder. Vl hile the underlying stitches 1 are being formed the spiral cam 78 is positioned so that it will permit a free movement of the work holder, the camim aelled movement of said work holder carrying the shoe 83 away from the spiral cam 78, as shown in Fig. 1% and the movement induced by the spring moving said shoe in the opposite direction. As the last underlying stitch 1 is formed and while the shoe is separated from the cam T8, as seen in Fig. 1d, the latter is turned so as to bring the cam into engagement with the shoe, as shown in Fig. 15 and thereafter the cam 78 is given a slow turning movement allowing the shoe to follow down the cam under the influence of the spring 34 and producing the feeding movement. This operation can perhaps be made more clear by reference to Fig. 13, which shows the stitching operation graphically. When the machine is started the first penetrating thrust of the needle is at the point a which represents the start of the underlying stitching and the first transverse movement of the work clamp due to the first rise 22 of the cam 21 moves the work clamp so that the next penetrating thrust of the needle is at the point 6. For the third penetrating thrust a low portion 23 of the cam 21 comes under the roll 2% so that the work clamp is shifted to bring the needle back to the first point again and this jogging movement continues until the underlying stitches 1 have been completed. The last penetrating thrust of the needle in the formation of the underlying stitches is at the point 6 although for the sake of illustration this point is indicated at c in Fig. 13 because the stitches 1 of the group are shown slightly separated. At this time the roll 2st is on a high portion 22 of the cam and the shoe 83 is in the position shown in Fig. 1% relative to the feed cam 78. When the underlying stitches have been completed then the sleeve 79 is turned to bring the feed cam 78 into engagement with the shoe 83 as shown in F 15 and thereafter the feed cam is turned slowly backwardly while the overlying stitches 2 are being formed so as to permit the work clamp to move slowly in the direction of the underlying stitches under the influence of the spring 3 1. The stopping mechanism for the cam 21 is so constructed that the cam comes to rest in the position shown in Fig. 15 *ith the roll 24 on the low portion of the cam and, therefore, the rod 2'? does not interfere with the movement of the arm 29 during the feeding movement of the work clamp while the overlying stitches are being formed.

Vv hil-e the underlying stitches 1 are being formed the feed cam 78 is in the position shown in Fig. 3 and is held in this position by means of a brake 85 and at this time the spring 81 is wound up so that it tends to turn the sleeve 7 9 into the position shown in Fig.

15. The. brake 85 is in the form. of a brake shoe bearing against the sleeve 7 9 and it is carried by a stem 86 pivotally connected to an arm 87 fast on a rock shaft 60. This rock shaft has another arm 89 fast thereon which is acted on by a spring 90, said spring pulling upwardly on the arm 89 and thereby forcing the l rake shoe 85 against the drum 79. The release the brake at the proper time is secured by a cam projection 91 carried by the cam member '1' 6, said cam projection acting on roll 92 extending from the arm 89 and depressing said arm thereby withdrawing the brake 05 from frictional engagement with the drum 7 9. 1t vill be remembered that the cam 76 makes one rotation during the formation of the underlying stitches and then comes to rest at the time when the shift is made from the underlying to the overlying stitches. The cam projection 91 is so positioned on the cam 78 that it engages the roll 92 and thus releases the brake just before the underlying stitches are completed, that is, during the last penetrating thrust of the needle in forming the underlying stitches (this last thrust being at the point 0 Fig. 13 as above described) so that the braking action on the cam 78 is released when the needle is making its last penetrating thrust in the formation of the underlying stitches. V] hen the braking action is thus re leased the wound spring 81 serves to turn the drum 7 9 from the position shown in Fig. 14 to that shown in Fig. 15, thereby bringing the cam ribs 78 againstthe shoe 83, as shown in Fig. 15. The drum 79 is then given an intermittent rotative movement in a direction opposite to its spring-impelled movement, during which the shoe 83 follows down the cam 78 under the influence of the spring 3% and the work holder is given its feeding movement.

For thus giving a feeding movement to the cam the drum 79 is provided with ratchet teeth 93 which co-operate with feed pawls 94 carried by a pawl carrier 95. lhis pawl carrier is capable of moving transversely of the shaft 80 and is guided in this transverse movement by a block 96 loosely mounted on the shaft 80, the latter having ways 97 by which the pawl carrier 95 is guided. The pawl carrier is acted on by springs 98 which tend to move it in a direction to bring the pawls 94 into engagement with the ratchet teeth 93 and said pawl carrier is normally held with the pawls disengaged from the ratchet teeth by means of a cam projection 99 on a sleeve 100 slidably mounted on the shaft 80 said cam projection being received in a central opening 101 formed in the pawl carrier. The pawl carrier is given an oscillatory motion about the shaftcontinuously and for this purpose it is connected by a link 102 with a swinging actuator 103, the latter being pivoted to the frame 3 at 10d and having an opening 105 in which is received a ca 0. 106 fast on the shaft 8. The actuator 105 is therefore continuous ly vibrated and such vibration is transmitted to the pawl carrier 95. So long as the pawls 94 are disengaged from the ratchet 93 the oscillating movement of the pawl carrier will not be communicated to the drum 79 and this is the condition which exists during the formation of the underlying stitches 1. After the underlying stitches have been completed and the brake 85 has been released, as above described, to permit the drum 79 to turn into the position shown in Fig. 15, then the pawls 94L are brought into engagement with the ratchet 93 thereby giving a feeding movement to the feed cam 7 8. This is accomplished through the action of the lever which shifts the sleeve 59 thereby to render the cam 62 operative.

The sleeve 100, which is slidably mounted on the shaft has a projection 10'? extending therefrom which is engaged by the end of the lever 70 when the latter is shifted into the position shown in Fig. 15 at the end of the formation of the underlying stitches. This movement withdraws the cam linger 99 from engagement with the pawl carrier and allows the latter to be moved transversely in the ways 97 by the springs 98 thereby to bring the pawls 94L into engagement with the ratchet 93. This couples the sleeve 7 9 to the pawl carrier so that the sleeve will be ratcheted around, thus controlling the feeding movement of the work holder. During this pawl-impelled movement of the drum 7 9, the spring 81 will be wound up so that at the end of the stitching operation the spring 81 is in its wound condition, in which condition it is retained by he brake 85. It will be remembered that the brake 85 is released by the cam rib 91 which is relatively short, and this release of the brake occurs just as the long underlying stitches are completed and just before the cams 21 and 7 6 come to rest in the position shown in Fig. 3. When said cams thus come to rest the cam rib 91 has passed out from under the roll 92 so that the brake 85 is again applied and remains in action while the drum 79 is being stepped forward by the pawl and ratchet feed mechanism. Said brake thus acts to prevent retrograde movement of the drum between each forward step.

It will be observed from the fore oing that, assuming that the sleeve 9 and cam 78 are fed at a given rate of speed, the number of overlying stitches 2, will depend upon the length of the underlying stitches. Or stated in another way the number of the overlying stitches will depend upon the position which the shoe 83 assumes when the underlying stitches are completed, that is, the position which the shoe 83 occupies when the needle has made its penetrating thrust at the point a Fig. 13 for the next underlying stitch.

It will be remembered that when the undcrlying stitches are completed with the needle at the point a Fig. 13, and the shoe 83 in a position shown in Fig. 14, the sleeve 7 9 is released and is turned by the spring to bring the spiral cam 78 against the shoe 83. The extent to which the sleeve must be turned in order to bring this about depends of course upon the position of the shoe at the end of the underlying stitches, and this in turn depends upon the length of the stitches. After the parts have assumed the position shown in Fig. 15, then the cam is fed back into the aosition shown in Fig. 3, as the overlying stitches are formed and the number of such stitches depends on how far the cam 7 8 has to be turned to bring it from the position shown in Fig. 15 to that shown in Fig. 3.

Assuming therefore, that there is no change in the rate of feed of the sleeve 79, the number of overlying stitches Will vary proportionate ly to the length of the underlying stitches, and any adjustn'icnt of the length of the underlying stitches will automatically elfect an adjustment of the number of overlying stitches.

Moreover, the shoe 83 constitutes a stop to gauge the setting of the feed cam 78 for the overlying stitches, and as the position of the shoe is determined by the length of the underlying stitches, this construction provides means whereby the feed for the overlying stitches is automatically positioned. in accordance with the length of the underlying stitches.

The character of the spacing of the overlying stitches depends upon the character of the feed cam 78. If this said cam is one of uniform pitch, then the overlying stitches will be evenly spaced, but by making the feed cam with the irregular pitch the overlying stitches may be formed in bunches with a plu rality of stitches closely grouped together points along the length of the underlying stitches.

It is within my invention to provide a cam 78 of any contour depending on the character of the spacing required in the overlying stitches.

I have also provided means whereby the spacing of the overlying stitches can be varied for any length of the underlying stitches. In other words, I have provi H means whereby for any given length of derlying stitch the overlying stitches may be formed closer to or further from. each or;:

This is herein accomplished by provid n an adjustable connection between the l 102 which operates the pawl carrier and the osci latory frame 103. Such adjustable connection is shown as comprising slot 17 in the frame which receives a clamping screw 173 carried by the link 102. The frame 103 has a. fixed amplitude of movement, and by adjusting the clamping screw 173 further from the center 104, the amplitude of movement of the pawl carrier will be sod. thus giving a more rapid rate of feed, while by adjusting the clamp screws 173 toward the upper end of the slot 172, the. amplitude of movement of the pawl carrier will be decreased, thus giving a slower rate of feed. The increased rate of feed results in forming the overlying stitches further apart, while the slower rate of feed results in form: ing the overlying stitches nearer together.

When the overlying stitches a completed, the machine is brought to rest, and the stopping of the machine is controlled by the cam 78 through the operation of a lever 108, which is pivoted to the frame at 109 and acted on by a pulling spring 110 tending to move it to the right Fig. 8.

It has been heretofore stated that when the machine is started by depressing of the arm 50, the latch 53 operates to hold the arm depressed. At the time that the shift is made from the production of the unc erlying stitches to the production of the overlying stitches the lever 108 is moved forward so as to engage behind the arm 50 and hold the latter, the latch 53 at this time becoming he engaged from the shoulder The lever 108, is therefore, at this time substituted for the pawl 53 as a means for holding the arm 50 depressed. This substitution takes place as follows:

The arm 108 is connected to the sleeve 100 by means of a link 111 which, however, has a lostmotion connection with said sleeve. llhen the sleeve 100 is given its mov the right to render the pawl actuator 95 operative, the lever 108 is given a movement sullicient to move the extension 112 thereon against the pawl 58, thereby kn citing said pawl from the shoulder 57. At this time, however, said extension passes in behind the end of the arm 50, and betwee the latter and the shaft 60, so that said lever acts to hold the arm from rising as shown in Fig. 18. This the condition which obtains during the formation of the overlying stitches. l t hen the overlying stitches are completed, the lever 108 is withdrawn from engagement with the arm 50, this end being accomplished by the portion 118 of the cam '28 engaging a projection on the lever 108. The withdrawing of the lever 108 from engagement with the arm 50 allows the springs 52 to restore the arm 50 to the position shown in Fig. i and to turn the rock shaft 419 thereby to carry the driving belt from the to the loose pulley. The. cam 78, therefore, operates not only a feed-controlling cam but also as a means to determine the point at which the machine to be stopped.

As the arm 50 swings upwardly from the po: tion shown in Fig. 5 to that shown in Fig. 1. the end surface 11% of arm has a camming action against the lever 108, there by returning it to the QOSiJlOl'l shown in Fi 8 and this movement operates through the link 111 to movethe sleeve 100 to the left, thereby carrying the projection 99 against ent to the pawl actuator 95 and withdrawing the latter out of operative engagement with the ratch t. At this time, the brake 85 is applied so as to lock the drum 79 in the position shown in Fig. 3 with the spring 81 wound.

In order to restore the sleeve 59 and lever to the position shown in Fig. 8 t the time that the machine is stopped, I have provided. said sleeve with a roll or projection 150, and hav also provided the arm 50 with a cam surface 152 adapted to engage said roll when the arm swings from the position shown in Fig. 5, to that shown in F ig. l. This engagement forces the sleeve 59 to the left, thus withdrawing the rolls 61 from the cam 62. This cam surface 152 is shown as formed on the end of a plate 151, which is secured to the arm 50 by means or" screws 153 extending through slots 154: in the plate. This provides means for adjusting the plate to enable the cam152 to function properly.

in Fig. 18, l have shown a reinforcement wherein all of the underlying stitches are of the same length. It is not essential, however that this should be the case as the underlying stitches may be of different lengths, this depending upon the nature of the cam 21. Y

In Fig. 19 l have shown a TGlDfOl'CQll'lGD'l in which the first of the underlying stitches is short stitch and the others are long stitches. In this construction the needle makes the first penetrating thrust at a and then the work clamps are moved slightly, so that the next penetrating thrust is at 6 thus producing a short stitch. The next penetrating thrust is at (4 again, and for the fourth penetrating thrust the work-holder is given greater movement to produce the long stitch. The advantage of making the first underlying stitch short one is that it is easier to anchor the thread for the first stitch in the work. Where the first stitch is a long stitch, it is necessary to draw of? a conside able length of thread to form the stitch, and when the machine is running rapidly, there is a possibility that unless the end of the thread is firmly held, it will be pulled out from the work. This liability is reduced by making the first underlying stitch a short stitch.

The production of the short stitch for the first underlying stitch may be accomplished by making the cam 21 with the first raised portion 22 of less height than the other raised port-ions, so that during the first stitch the work-holder will have a relativel small movement.

I claim:

ma hine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a verticall -reciproeating needle operating in a fir-zed )ath, of work-holding means means to vibrate the work-holding means in two different directions, thereby first to form a group of underlying stitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, and means to ,vary the number of he overlying stitches t without changing the length of the underlying stitches.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle operating in a fixed path, of work-holding means, means to vib re the work-holding means in two different directions, thereby first to form a group of underlying stitches and then to form a group of overlying stitc means vary the length of the underlying stitches, and means to vary proportionately the number of the overlying stitches.

3. In a sewing machine, the combi with stitch-forming mechanism includ verticallyreciproc-ating needle operating in a fixed path, of work-holding means, means to vibrate the work-holding means in two different directions, thereby first to form r 'roup of underlying stitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, and means for securing a uniform spacing of the overlying stitches regardless of the length of the underlying stitches.

4-. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a verticall -reciproeating needle operating in a fixed path, of worlchcldrug means, means to Vibrate the work-holding means in two different directions, thereby first to form a group of underlying stitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, and means to vary the spacing of the overlying stitches for any given length of underlying stitches.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanisu'i including a ertically-reciprocating needle operating in a fixed p ath, of work-holding means, means to vibrate the work-holding means in two different directions, thereby to formagroup of underlying stitches and then to ii'orm a group of overlying stitches, and means to ad just simultaneously the length of the underlying stitches and the number of the overly ing stitches.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-"forming mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle operating in fixed path, of work-holding means, means to vibrate the work-holding means in two different directions, thereby first to form a group of underlying stitches and then to form a {group of overlying stitches, means to bring the machine to rest after the formation of a predetermined number of stitches of the second group, and means to vary said predetermined number.

7. In. a sewing machine, he combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a vertically-reciproeating needle operating in a fixed path, of work-holding means, means to vibrate the work-holding means in two different direct-ions, thereby first to form a group of underlying stitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, means to bring the machine to rest after the formation of a predetermined number of stitches of the second group, and means to vary both the predetermined number of stitches in the sec ond group and the length of said stitches.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism constructed to .form a group of stitches side by side, and a second group of stitches which extend transversely to the stitches of the first group, said mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle which operates in a fixed path, of means to vary the spacing of the stitches of the second group.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination with. stitch-forming mechanism constructed to form a. group of stitches side by side, and a second group of stitches which extend transversely to the stitches of the first group, said mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle which operates in a fixed path, of means to vary both the spacing and the length of the stitches of the second group.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism constructed to form a group of stitches side by side, and a second group of stitches which extend transversely to the stitches of the first group, said mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle which operates in a fixed path, of means to vary both the spacing and the number of the stitches of the second group.

11.. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, a cam device for giving the work-holding means a reciprocatory movement in one direction, a second cam device for giving the work-holding means a reciprocatory movement in another direction, means to operate the first-named cam device to give the. work-holding means a predetevmined number of reciprocations and then bring said last-named cam device to rest, and automatic means to render the second cam device operative when the first-named came device is brought to rest.

12. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, means to reciprocate the work-holding means in one direction, thereby to form a group of stitches side by side, other means to reciprocate the work-holding means in a direction at right angles to the firstnamed direct-ion thereby to form a group of stitches which cross the first-named stitches, means separate from the work-holder reciprocating means to give the worleholder a feeding movement in the direction of the first-named stitches during the formation of the cross stitches, and means controlled by the feeding means to bring the machine to rest.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination eeaeee with a work-clamp, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in one directian to form underlying stitches, a second cam for giving the. work'clamp a reciprocating movement in another direction to form overlying stitches, and a feed cam independent from the first cam to give the work-holder a feed ing movement in the direction of the underlying stitches during the formation of the overlying stitches.

14. In a sewing machine the combination with a work-clamp, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the worlcclampa reciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in another direction to form overlying stitches, means to render the first cam inoperative and the second cam operative when the underlying stitches are completed, a feed cam which is idle while the underlying stitches are being formed, and means to render said feed cam operative during the formation of the overlying stitches.

15. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in another direction to form overlying stitches, a feed cam for controlling the feeding movement of the work-clamp during the formation of the overlying stitches, a constantly moving actuator for operating the feed cam, said feed cam being disconnected from the actuator during the formation of the underlying stitches, and means to operatively connect the feed cam to the actuator when the underlying stitches are completed.

16. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, means to operate said cam, a second cam for giving the work- 615111 a reciprocating movement in another direction to form overlying stitches, means to disconnect the first named cam from its driving mechanism and to render the second cam operative at the completion of the underlying stitches, and a feed cam controlling the feeding movement of the work-clamp during the formation of the overlying stitches.

17. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam. for giving the Work-cla1np a reciprocating movement in another direction to form. overlying stitches, a feed cam controlling the feeding movement of the work-clamp during the formation of the overlying stitches, said second cam and feed cam both being inoperative during the formation of the underlying stitches, and means to render said cams operative at the completion of the underlying stitches.

18. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, of stitclrforming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam. for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in another direction to form overlying stitches, a feed cam controlling the feeding movement of the work-clamp during the formation of the overlying stitches, said second cam and feed cam both being inoperative during the formation of the underlying stitches, and means to render said second cam and feed cam operative, and the first named cam inoperative at the completion of the underlying stitches.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, of stitch-forming1nechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in another direction to form overlying stitches, a feed cam independent from the first-named cam to control the feeding movement of the work-clamp during the formation of the overlying stitches, and means controlled by said feed cam to bring the machine to rest at the completion of the overlying stitches.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOHN KIEWICZ.