US1264921A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG-17' I914.

Patented May 7,1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

am: I m

C. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AUG. 17, 1914.

2 T F. E H A S T E E H S 3 Patented May 7,

C. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG- 17, 1914.

I Patented May 7,1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

CHRISTIAN II. T. nAenLsTEIN, or BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, AssIcnon To THE REECE BUTTON HOLE MAcHINE coI/IP nY, or BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May a, rare.

Application filed August 17, 1914. Serial No. 857,053.

lowing description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This inventionrelates to sewing machines of that type which are used for inserting a line of stitching or reinforcing stitches to stay or reinforce a fabric at any given point. Such sewing machines are commonly used for inserting a reinforcing line of stitching across. the end or ends of buttonholes or across the ends of the side pocket opening in trousers, and in manyother parts of garments where it is desired to reinforce the fabric so as toprevent it from tearing or glving Way.

The objects of my invention are to provide a novel sewing machine for this purpose whichis comparatively simple in construction and which is adapted to form the required reinforcement by two sets of stitches, the stitches on one set extending transversely of the opening-to be reinforced and the stitches of the other set extending transversely of the first-named stitches and prefcrablyoverlying the latter.

In order to give an understanding of the invention T have illustrated in the drawing a selected embodiment thereof which will now be describedand the novel features of the invention will then be pointed out in the appended claims.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a side view' of a sewing machine embodying my invention;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary perspective view ("showing the character of the stitches formed by the machine andalso'showing the operation of the thread-cutting mechanism;

Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the sewing ma: chine shown in Fig. 1 with part of the base broken out to show the operating mechanism;

Fig. 4 is a side view of the base with a part broken out to show the interior mechanism;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged section on the line 5-5, Fig. 3

Fig. 6 is a bottom plan view of the machine;

Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail view of the thread-cutting mechanism;

F 1g. 8 is a section on the line 8-8, Fig. 7. I

Fig. 9 is a section on the line 9-9, Fig. 6.

Before describing in detail the construction herein illustrated, I will refer to Fig. 2 which illustrates the character of the stitches formed by the sewing machine. Fig. 2 shows these stitches as used for staying or barring the end of a buttonhole, but it will be understood that this is only one use to which the machine canbe put and that the staying or reinforcing stitches shown in Fig. 2 may be used for tacking or reinforcing a garment at the ends of pocket openings, or

in any other place where such reinforcement is necessary. In the trade this operation of inserting reinforcing stitches at the ends of buttonhol'es, pocket openings, etc., is usually referred to as tacking and a sewing machine adapted for inserting these reinforcing or tacking stitches is sometimes referred to as a tacker. 1

The machine herein illustrated is constructed so that at each operation it will insert two .sets of reinforcing stitches, the stitches of one set extending transversely of the opening to be tacked or stayed, and the stitches of the other set extending longitudinally of the opening and transversely of the stitches of the first set. For instance, in

Fig. 2, one set of stitches is illustrated at 1,

and these extend transversely of the buttonhole or other opening 3, there being any desired number of these stitches 1 and of any desired length, depending on the mechanical construction of the machine. The stitches of the second set are shown at 2, and these extend transversely of the stitches 1 and longitudinally of the opening 3, the line of stitches 2 extending from one end to the other of the stitches 1. In the machine herein illustrated the stitches 1 are first formed and after the proper number have been inserted the stitches 2 are formed, the latter stitches overlyingthe stitches 1.

The" stitches 1 and 2 are formed by stitch-v forming mechanism including the usual needle 4 and shuttle 5, and the latter may be either of the rotary or oscillatory type as desired. The stitch-forming mechanism is sustained in a frame of any suitable or usual I timed relation to effect first a transverse viconstruction, that herein shown comprising .the base member 7 having the overhanging arm or bracket 8 sustained therefrom in which reciprocates the needle bar, 9 to WlllCh the needle 4 is secured. This needle bar is operated from the driving shaft 6 by any suitable means, the shaft being herein shown as having an eccentric 11' thereon which actuates a lever 10 pivoted to the arm through a connection 12, said lever 10 being connected holding member 18, in which the shuttle operates, any suitable" or usual mechanism being employed for communicating motlon from the actuator 17 tothe shuttle.

The work 19 into which the staying ortacking stitches 1 and 2 are to be inserted is sustained in a work clamp comprising two clamping members 20 and 21. In order to produce the two stitches 1 and 2 means are provided for moving the work clamp 20, 21 in two different directions, said work clamp being v1- brated laterally to eifect the formation of the stitches 1 and then being vibrated longitudinally and gradually moved laterally toefl'ect the formation of the stitches 2. The means for thus operating the work clamp comprises actuating cams, preferably situated within the'base frame 7 and actuated from the driving shaft 6, these cams acting in proper bratorymovement of the work clamp and then a longitudinal vibratory movement and a gradual continuous transverse movement. The work clamp herein illustrated is best seen in Figs. 1, 3 and 5. The two clampin members 20 and 21- are movable toward an from each other so thatthey can be separated to permit the work to be inserted between-gthem or removed therefrom. Each clamping member lsherein shown as div ded longitudinally to form two sections or parts,

the two parts of the lower clamping member which the corresponding upper member is pivoted, as at 25. This construction permits the upper member to be swung away from the lower member, as shown by dotted lines Fig. 5 thereby to open the clamp. The upper member of the clamp hasconnected to its rear.end a stud 50 which is slidably mounted in a block 103 that in turn is slidably mounted in ways 104 in the top 34 of the base frame, and means are provided for and the longitudinal vibratory drawing the stud 50 downwardly to open the clamp. As herein shown the stud 50 has at its lower end a collar 105 which is adapted to be engaged by the forked arm 106 on the rock shaft 107, the latter having an arm 108 thereon to which a chain or other connection 109 is secured that leads to a treadle. By drawing downward on the connection 109 the stud 50 will be forced downwardly through the block 103 thereby opening the clamp. A spring 110 confined between the upper and lower lamping members serves to automatically close the clamps.

As stated above means are providedzfor giving the work clamp 20, 21 vibratory movements in two directions, one movement 7 being transversel to effect the formation of the stitches 1 an the other movement being longitudinally to effect the formation of the stitches 2. The transverse vibrato movement is effected through the operat10n of a cam groove 26 formed in' a cam member 27, movement is effected through the operation of a cam groove 28 formed in a cam member I 29. These two cam members 27 and 29 are actuated from the main driving shaft 6 and in the present embodiment of the invention they are rigid with a worm gear 30 that is rotatably mounted on a stud 31 secured to the base frame 7, and is driven by means of a worm 32 fast on the driving shaft 6. The construction is such that one complete rotation of the worm gear 30 will carry the machine through its cycle of operations and effect the formationof the'complete stay or reinforce comprising both sets of stitches l and 2.

The v mechanism herein illustratedfor giv-- in the transverse movement to the clam wi 1 now be described. The stud 50 constitutes a pivotal connection about which the clampingmembers can swing laterally and the sections of the lower clamping member are secured to and are carried by. a stud 33 which extends through an opening in the top 34 of the base frame 7 and is capable of transverse movement therein. As herein shown, each clamping section 22 has an inclined slot 35 therein through which extends a fin or web 36 rising from the stud 33. These fins or webs 36 are of less length than the slots 35, as plainly seen in Fig. 3,

the reason for which will presently be described. The stud 33 is secured to and carried by a connecting member 37 which is pivotally secured at 38 to one arm of an elbow lever 39 that in turn is pivoted to the base frame7 at 40. The other arm of this elbow lever is pivotally connected to a connecting member 42 that is connected at 43 to an arm 44 pivoted on a vertically-extending rock shaft 45 that is mounted in suitable bearings carried by the base frame, said rock shaft having rigid therewith an arm 46 which carries a roll 47 that operates in the cam groove 26. The cam groove 26 is formed wlth the sinuous portion 48 and with the stepped portion 49 that carries the cam groove by steps from one to the other end of the sinuous portion 48. The sinuous portion 48 of the cam groove is that which is efiective in the formation of the stitches 1 and the stepped portion 49 is operative during the formation of the stitches 2. As the cam rotates in the direction of the arrow a Fig. 6, and the roll 47 passes through the sinuous portion 48 of the cam groove, the arms 46 and 44 will be given a vibratory movement which will be communicated through the connection 42,

elbow lever 39 and connection 37 to the work clamp thereby to give the latter its vibratory motion. The connecting member 42 is preferably adjustably connected to the elbow lever 39 so as to provide for giving the work clamp a greater or less transverse vibratory movement with the same cam 27. This adjustable connection is herein provided for by making one arm of the elbow lever With the slot 41 in which the connecting member 42 is adjustably mounted.

The connections for giving the clamping member the transverse movement from the cam groove 28 comprise a lever arm 51 pivoted to the base frame at 52 and carrying at its end a roll or projection 530 that operates in the cam groove 28, and another lever arm 54 pivoted to the. base frame at 55 and connected tothe stud 50, and a connecting member 53 pivotally connecting said lever arms. The cam groove 28 is provided with a concentric portion 56 and the sinuous portion 57, the concentric and sinuous portions 56 and 57 being so situated that the concentric 56 will be acting on the roll 530 during the time that the sinuous portion 48 of the cam groove 26 is operatin on the cam roll '47, while the sinuous port1on 57 of the cam groove28 is operating on the roll 530 atthe time that the stepped portion 49 of the cam groove 26 is acting on the roll 47. As a re suit when the cam member 29 operates the work clamp will be held from longitudinal movement while the roll '530 is operating in the concentric portion 56 of the cam oove, and said work clamp will be vibrated 101igitlldinally as the roll passes throughfthe sinuous portion 57 of the cam groove. The combined action of these two cam grooves 26 and 28 result-in the formation of the stitches 1 and 2, as will now be obvious.

The parts are shown in Figs. 3 and 6 in the position of rest.

been started up the sinuous portion 48 of the cam groove 26 operates to give the transverse movement to the work clamp to form the stitches 1, and during this time the roll 530 is operating inthe concentric portion 56 of the cam groove 28 and thus holding the work When work has been inserted in the clamp and the machine has.

clamp from longitudinal movement. en the cams have turned so as to carry the roll 47 into the stepped portion 49 of the cam groove 26, then the roll 530 enters the sinuous portion 57 of the cam groove 28 and the work clamp is then given a longitudinal vibrating movement thereby to effect the formation of the stitches 2. During this longicans are provided for automatically contracting the work clamp when the machine starts up so that the cloth will be relieved of all tension and will be gathered slightlyv while the stitches are being formed therein. Tt will be remembered that the work clamp is divided longitudinally to constitute two sections, and these sections are brought together slightly after the work is clamped therein and when the machine starts up and are held in such position thereby to close the opening in the goods or gather the fabric together while the stitches are being formed, said work clamp resuming its initial position when the stitching operation is completed. The advantage of this is that the tacking or stay-stitching tends to hold the opening closed .and takes all the strain from the fabric which would tend to tear-the lat: ter. This contracting of the work clamp is accomplished by a slight movement of the member 37 toward the front of the machine at the time that the machine starts. It will be noted that the slots- 35 are slightly inclined and that they are longer than the fins 36, so that the latter can move in the slots. Hence any movement of the member 37 toward the left" Fig. .3 relative to the work clamp will cause the work clamp sections to be brought together slightly. This member 37 is provided with a roll 61 adapted to engage the periphery 62 of'the cam member 29, said peripheryhaving a notch 63 therein which the roll occupies when the parts are at rest. 7 0 isa spring connected to the member 37 and to the frame and which normally holds the roll in contact with the periphery of the cam member 62. When the machine starts and the cam member begins its rotation in the; direction of the arrow 6, Fig. 3, the periphery 62 of the cam member will by its engagement with the roll 61 move the lever 37 to the right Fig.3 about its pivot 38, such movement operating through the fins 36 and grooves 35 to contract the clamp engagement of the roll 61 with the periphery 62 of the cam member 29 these sections will remain contracted during the complete rotation of the cam member and while both sets of stitches are being formed. When the cycle of operations is complete and the notch 63 comes in alinement with the roll 61, the spring 70 will return the arm 37 to the position shown in Fig. 3 and thus expand or spread the clamping members back to their normal position. The expanding movement of said sections is limited by the engagement of a finger 60 extending from the arm 37 with an adjustable stop screw 59.

The construction herein illustrated also includes means for severing both the needle and shuttle thread after the stitching operation has been completed. In sewing machines of this general type the needle inserts a loop 71 of needle thread 72 through the fabric and the shuttle 5 is then carried through said loop thereby to concatenate the shuttle thread 73 with the needle thread.

My thread-severing device is arranged to sever the shuttle thread 73 and the side 74 of the'needle thread loop 71 which leads into the cloth at the time that the last loop is being formed, this operation being performed automatically so that when the machine comes to rest at the end of its cycle of operations the thread has been completely severed and the work can be removed from the clamp without drawing out any length of thread from the shuttle or needle. The thread-severing device comprises a thread selector which operates during the formation of the last stitch to select the two ends 73, 74, see Fig. 2, and "carry said ends latorally into position to be engaged by a thread .cutte This thread-selecting device 1 is shown as a curved member 75 provided at its end with a thread-receiving notch 76. This selecting member is pivotally mounted beneath the bed plate, on a shaft 77, and is acted upon by a spring 78 which tends normally to throw it intoits operative position shown in Figs. 3 and 7. The shaft 77 has a finger 181 fast thereon which engages the thread selector 75 as the shaft is turned clock-wise Fig. 7 and thereby swings said selector into its inoperative position shown in dotted lines Fig. 7. During the formation. of the stitches this thread-selecting device is held in said inoperative position by means of a cam '7 9 herein shown as rigid with the cam 27. For this purpose the shaft 77 has rigid therewith, an arm 80 which is connected by. a link 81 to a lever 82 pivoted at 83 and having an arm 84' to engage the periphery of the cam 79. This I cam has the rise 86, concentric portion 85 and the fall 87. When the high concentric portion 85 engages the arm 84 the thread selector will be held in the dotted line position Fig.7 out of the way of the stitchoperating mechanism. The cam 79 is so positioned that during the formation of the last stitch and while the shuttle 5 is being inserted through the needle loop 71 of the last stitch the portion 87 of the cam comes into position to permit the arm 84 to ride theredown, and as this occurs the spring 78 comes into play to move the thread selector 75 into the full line position, Figs. 3, 7 and 8. At this time the shuttle and needle threads have approximately the position shown in Fig. 2, that is, the loop 71 of the needle thread is spread and the shuttle is passing therethrough while the shuttle thread 73 extends from the shuttle 5 through the guide 88 to the work. The shape and operation of the thread selector 75 is such that when it moves from its normal or dotted line position Fig. 7 into its full line position, or into the dotted line position Fig.- 2 the thread ends 73 and 74 will be caught in the notch 76 and carried thereby laterally and to one side of the supply end of the loop 71. The initial movement of the thread selector into the position shown in Fig. 2 is accomplished while the shuttle is passing through the loop 71 and thefinal movement into the dotted line position Fig. 2, or the iull line position Figs. 7 and 8 is accomplished after the needle loop 71 has passed over the shuttle and while there is considerable consequent slack in said loop. It will be noted that the inclined portion 87 of the cam 79 is stepped so that the movement of the selector 75 will be an intermittent movement. This is to permit the initial movement into the position shown in Fig. 2, while the needle loop 71 is comparatively taut by. the passage of the shuttle therethrough and then to restrain the selector 75 from further movement until the shuttle has passed through the loop and the latter is slack before the member 75 has its complete movement.

When the thread ends have been brought laterally into the dotted line position Fig.

2 or into the full line position Figs. 7 and I have herein illustrated means actuated by the devices that control the thread selector 75 for controlling the movements of the shearing blades. These blades are provided with extensions 91 having slots 92 therein in which slots operates a pin 93 carried by a block 97 that is slidably mounted on a guiding member 95 secured to the base of is moved to the right Fig. 7 thereby to cause the shearing blades to close against each other. The construction is such that the arm 98 is not brought into contact with the block 97 until after the thread ends 73 and 74 have been carried between the shearing members 89, the movement of the block 97 occurring after the final movement of the thread selector. en the thread selector is moved back into its dotted line position Fig. 7 the toe 99 thereof engages a shoulder 100 on the block 97 and moves the latter toward the left Fig. cutting blades again.

101 indicates an adjustable stop adapted to limit the forward movement of the selector 75. 5

Any suitable driving mechanism for the 7 thereby opening the shaft 6 may be employed and any usual stop motion may be employed to bring the shaft 6 to rest whenever the worm gear 30 has made one complete revolution and the cycle of operations is complete. l[ have not, however, illustrated any particular stop motion here The above-described movement of the thread selector from the full line position Fig. 2 into the dotted line position causes both the shuttle. and the needle thread to be drawn ofi somewhat. The needle thread passes through thensual tension device 165 by which the tension is applied to the needle thread. The movement of the thread selector from the full to the dotted line position is a comparatively rapid one, and in order to obviate any danger that the needle thread will become broken during this movement, I have provided means for releasing the tension on the needle thread which is applied thereto by the tension 165 at the time the needle and shuttle threads are being acted upon by the thread'selector. The tension 165 is constructed as usual with the two friction disks 16.4 and 163 between which the thread passes. The disk 163 is carried by a rod or thrust member 162, the end of which is engaged by a sliding actuator 161 supported by the overhanging arm 8. This acuated wit a the overhanging arm and pivoted thereto at 158. This lever is connected at its lower end to the arm 37 by means of a connecting member 157 and the construction is such m. when the lever is in the position shown =in'lBig. 3, the friction disk 163 is separated from the friction disk 164 through the connections above described thus relieving the tension on the needle thread, while when the machine is operating and the cam-member 29 has been turned to bring the notch 63 out of line with the roll 61, then the ctuator 161 has been withdrawn from the end of thestem 162 so as to allow the friction to operate in usual manner. This is the position of the parts while the sewing operation is proceeding, but as soon as the sewing is completed and the notch 63 has come opposite the roll 61, then the tension is relieved on the needle thread. It is at this time that the thread selector operates so that with the construction above described the tension on the needle thread will be automatically relieved at the time that the needle thread is moved laterally. by the thread selector.

140 is a usual take-up which acts on the needle thread at the proper time in the cycle of operations to take up the slack therein. This take-up is in the form of a lever pivotally connected to the overhanging arm 8 at 141 and connected to a connecting member 142 which in turn is connected to an actuating lever 143 pivoted to the overhanging arm at 144. This lever carries at its lower end a roll which operates in the cam groove 145 formed in a cam member 146. 1 have herein shown this cam member 146 as mounted on the periphery of the crank disk 13, said cam member 146 being held in adjusted position on the crank disk by means of set screws 147 By loosening the set screws 147 the cam disk 146 can be adjusted about the crank disk 13 thereby to bring the cam groove 145 into proper timed relation with the movements of the crank disk to perform properly the stitching operation.

'ile have illustrated herein a selected embodiment of my invention 1 do not wish to be limited to the constructional features shown. The thread-severing means and thread selector herein shown are not claimed in this application as they have been made the subject of another application filed by me March 11', 1918, Se. No. 221706.

1 claim: v.

1. In a sewin machine, the combination with a frame, 0 stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, a blockslidably mounted on the frame, a work clamp pivotally coinnected to the block, first to oscillate the work clamp about its pivot a plurality of times during a plurality of immediately successive stitch forming movements of the stitch-forming mechanism and then to vibrate the block in a direction at right angles to the oscillatory movement of the work clamp.

2. In a sewin machine, the combination with a. frame, 0 stitch-1o M mech t 11 1 and means operating carried thereby, a block slidably mounted on the frame, awork clamp pivotally connected to the block, means to oscillate the work clamp about its pivot a plurality of'times during a plurality of immediately successive stitchforming movements of the stitchformlng mechanism, and means to vibrate the block on the frame in a direction at work clamp a feeding movement in'the direction of its oscillatory movement thereby to form a plurality of stitches which cross the first-named stitches.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame, of a stitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, a work clamp com-- prising two clamping members pivotally connected together, a block mounted on the frame for sliding movement and to which said clamping members are pivoted, means to oscillate the work clamp about its pivotal connection with the block, andmeans to vibrate the bloc'k'in a direction at right angles to the oscillatory movement of the work clamp.

5. In a sewing with stitch-forming mechanism, of a work clamp made in two sections, a block to which said work clamp is pivotally connected,

means for oscillating the work clamp about its pivotal connection with the block, means to vibrate'the blockin a direction at right angles to the oscillatory movement of the machine, the combination work clamp, and means to contract the sectionsof the work clampduring the operation of the stitch-formmg mechanism and to spread said work clamp when the stitching is completed.

6. Ina sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a work clamp made in two sections, means including cam mechanism for vibrating the work clamp first in one direction and then in another direction at right angles thereto thereby to form two sets of stitches extending in different directions, and means to contract the sections of the work clamp during the formation of the stitches and to spread said work clamp when the stitchingis completed.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism, of a work clamp made in two separable sections, each having an inclined slot, a clamp-vibrating member having projections operating in said slots, means to move said clamp-vibrating member in a direction to vibrate the clamp laterally, and means operative at the beginning of the stitching operation to move said member longitudinally of the slots thereby to contract the clamp.

'8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a work clamp made in two separable sections, a clamp-vibrating member connected to said sections, means to actuate said vibrating member to vibrate the clamp laterally, and

means to move saidmember relative to the clamp in a direction at right angles to its vibratory movement thereby to spread the clamp In testimony'whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, 1n the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

CHRISTIAN H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

Witnesses:

LOUIS C. SMITH, GEORGE C. HILL.

Images