US2301797A

US2301797A - Buttonhole sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US2301797A
Application number: US357698A
Authority: US
Inventors: Edward P Spaine
Original assignee: Singer Co
Current assignee: Singer Co
Priority date: 1940-09-21
Filing date: 1940-09-21
Publication date: 1942-11-10
Anticipated expiration: 1959-11-10

Description

Nov. 10, 19.42. P, sP E 2,301,797

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE I Filed Sept. 21. I940 11 Sheets-Sheet l dwanz ,t's wine Nov. 10, 1942. E. P. SPAINE 2,301,797

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 21, 1940 ll. Sheets-Sheet 2 Nov. 10, 1942. E, p sp mE 2,301,797

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 21, 1940 1i Sheets-Sheet 3 QWFwmu Nov. 10, 1942.

E. P. SPAINE 2,301,797 I BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 21, 1940 ll Sheets-Sheet 4 BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 21, 1940 ll Sheets-Sheet 5 warm;

Nov. 10, 1942. E. P. SPAINE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed se t; 21, 1940 11 Sheets-Sheet 6 W5 fiwwrd q M 1942- E. P. SPAINE 2,301,797

BUTTQNHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 21; 1940 11 Sheets-Sheet 'r lward {A 1 Nov. 10, 1942. E. P. SPAINE 2,301,797

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 21, 1940 ll Sheets-Sheet 8 Nov. 10, 1942. E. P. sPAlNE .BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE ll Sheets-Sheet 9 Filed Sept. 21, 1940 Nov. 10, 1942. P, SPAINE 2,301,797

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 21, 1940 ll Sheets-Sheet l0 Nov. 10, 1942. E. P. SPAINE BUTTQNHOLE SEWING MACHINE l1 Sheets-Sheet 11 Filed Sept. 21, 1940 a HIum/l S/ C 4 a 7 5 4 V v m a w M M w 0 d M Y a m w 1 M2 5 M? 1 u Wm 2 31 Patented Nov. 10, 1942 BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Edward P. Spaine, Bridgeport, Conn., assignor to The Singer Manufacturing Company, Elizabeth, N. J., a corporation cit New Jersey Application September 21, 1940, Serial No. 357,698

20 Claims.

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines more particularly of the type having turret-supported stitch-forming mechanism which is turnable about a vertical axis in sewing around the eyelet-end of a buttonhole. Such a machine also commonly has a work-clamp and a. builtin main feed-wheel which is slowly turned through one complete revolution per buttonhole producing cycle. This main feed-wheel has cut therein a longitudinal feed-cam groove and another cam-groove which controls the turning movement of the stitch-forming mechanism turret about a vertical axis, as when Sewing around the eyelet-end of a buttonhole. The longitudinal feed-cam groove produces a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and workclamp lengthwise of the buttonhole. Such a machine is also commonly provided with a lateral or side-shift feed-cam groove which produces a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp crosswise of the direction of length of the buttonhole. This sideshift feed-cam groove has been cut in the main feed-wheel and has also been cut in an auxiliary feed-wheel or pattern wheel running one-to-one with the main feed-wheel and accessibly located at the side of the machine bed for ready removal and substitution therefor of any selected one of a number of pattern-wheels, such as disclosed in U. S. Patent No. 15,324, reissued April 4, 1922. It is well understood by those skilled in the art that, by suitably cutting the longitudinal and lateral feed-cam grooves, a stitched figure or pattern, or a buttonhole of any desired shape or contour, may be produced. These two camgrooves control the shape or contour of the stitched figure produced by the stitch-forming mechanism in the work held by the work-clamp.

Adjustable machines have been produced for sewing unbarred buttonhcles of variable length. In these machines the stitch-forming mechanism or work-holder travels over a fixed maximum distance, determined by the longitudinal feedcam groove and adjustable means are provided to control the position in said travel where the stitch-forming mechanism is started and stopped.

Adjustable machines have also been produced for sewing taper-barred buttonholes of variable length. In these machines the portions of the side-shift feed-cam groove which control the lateral position of the taper-barring stitches are adjustable with the means which control the starting and stopping of the stitch-forming mechanism.

To sew the barring titches of a taper-barred buttonhole the stitch-forming mechanism does not require to be turned about its vertical axis and may remain in the same position as when sewing the side stitches of the buttonhole. Consequently, the portion of the cam-groove which turns the stitch-forming mechanism turret about its vertical axis is out concentric with the main feed-wheel over that portion engaged by its follower while the machine is sewing the side and taper-barring stitches of a buttonhole of any length within the range provided.

To sew a square-bar across the finishing end of a buttonhole, it is desirable to cut the camgroove which controls the turning movement of the turret of stitch-forming mechanism about its vertical axis with a non-concentric portion to turn the turret through an angle, preferably 90,

between the time of completion of the return side-stitching operation and the time of beginning of the square-bar stitching operation. This non-concentric portion of the turret-rotating cam-groove is fixed in time relative to the longitudinal feed-cam groove in the main feed-wheel and square-bar buttonhole machines of the prior art are accordingly limited to the sewing of buttonholes of fixed length.

The present invention has for an object to provide an improved adjustable buttonhole sewing machine for sewing barred buttonholes of any length within a given range.

Another object of the invention is to provide an adjustable machine for sewing square-bar buttcnholes of various lengths.

Still further, the invention has for an object to provide a machine for sewing square-bar buttonholes either with or without an eye.

Still further, the invention has for an object to provide the machine with an improved needlethread cutter and nipper.

According to the invention, the bar-stitchpositioning portion of the lateral-feed cam-groove and the turret-turning portion of the camgroove which turns the stitch-forming mechanism about its vertical axis are correctly timed relative to the longitudinal feed-cam groove to function properly in sewing the longest buttonhole which the machine is designed to produce. For any shorter buttonhole the stitch-forming mechanism is started later and stopped earlier in the buttonhole producing cycle, as in sewing an unbarred buttonhole. At the completion of the return side stitching operation, the stitchforming mechanism is stopped and the workholder is uncoupled from the longitudinal feedcam and locked in position to receive the bar stitches. The feed-cam system is then turned rapidly through a portion of its single-rotation until a position is reached where the turretturning portion of the stitch turning cam-groove operates to rotate the stitch-forming mechanism about its vertical axis and the bar-'stitch-controlling portion of the lateral feed-cam groove is in position to begin to function. At this point the stitch-forming mechanism is restarted and the bar is sewn, whereupon the work-clamp is returned to initial position by auxiliary mechanism and re-coupled to the longitudinal feedcam groove in the main feed-cam, ready for the next cycle.

By disabling the longitudinal feed and permitting the feed-cam-system to turn idly without feeding the work longitudinally of the buttonhole, I am enabled to provide an adjustable machine for sewing a barred buttonhole of any desired length within the range provided, without change of the timing of the bar-stitch-controlling portion of the lateral feed-cam groove of the one-revolution cam system of the machine.

Of the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 is a right side elevation of a buttonhole sewing machine embodying the invention. Fig. 2 is a detail view of the thread-cutter actuating cam mount ed on the one-revolution cross rotary shaft located in the machine-bed. Fig. 3 is a left side elevation of the machine. Fig. 4 is a front end elevation of the machine with the lower plates of the work-clamp in transverse section. Fig. 5 is a rear end elevation of the machine. Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic representation of a square-bar buttonhole produced by the machine. Fig.7 is a bottom plan view of the machine. Fig. 8 is a horizontal section through the bracket-arm standard of the machine at the level of the buttonhole cutter shaft and with the separable sections of the work-clamp removed from the machinebed. Fig. 9 is a plan view of the stop-motion latchtripping mechanism shown in Fig. 8, at the period of the buttonhole producing cycle when the stop-motion latch is tripped to stop the stitchforming mechanism at the close of the return side-stitching operation on a buttonhole.

Fig. 10 shows the stop-motion latch holding the shiftable stop-motion lever in running position. Fig. 11 is a top plan view of the longitudinal feed-cam and connections actuated thereby, including the longitudinal feed uncoupling device and the auxiliary mechanism for returning the work-clamp to initialposition after a buttonhole has been stitched. Fig. 12 is a disassembled perspective view of the longitudinal feed disabling connection or coupling. 13 is a section substantially on the line I3-I3, Fig. 11. Fig. 14 is a. section substantially on the line I4M, Fig. 11. Fig. 15 is an inside face view of the auxiliary work-clamp return cam and follower connections which are shown in top plan in Fig. 11. Fig. 16 is an outer face view of the adjustable pattern-wheel which is mounted at the left side of the machine-bed, externally of the latter. Fig. 1'7 is a sectional view substantially on the line I'l-lI, Fig. '2'. Fig. 18 is a sectional view of the pattern-wheel on the line Iii-48, Fig. 16. Fig. 19 is a sectional view of the pattern-wheel on the line i9I9, Fig. 16.

Fig. 20 is a sectional view of the pattern-wheel on the line 23-29, Fig. 16. Fig 21 is a perspective view of the removable and replaceable barstitch-controlling section of the lateral feed-cam in the pattern-wheel. Fig. 22 is a plan view of the back-feed and locking means for the longitudinal slide-frame of the work-clamp, taken just before the back-feed is accomplished. Fig. 23 is a similar view taken just after the back-feed is accomplished. Fig. 24 is a perspective view of the pattern-wheel, complete. Fig. 24 is a fragmentary elevational view of the patternwheel showing the bar-stitch start-and-stop control segments for the stitch-forming mechanism. Fig. 25 is a disassembled perspective view of the pattern-wheel. Fig, 26 is a development of the lateral feed-cam groove in the pattern-wheel. Fig. 2'7 is a central longitudinal section of the development shown in Fig, 26. Fig. 23 is an enlarged view of the needle-thread-cutting mechanism shown in Fig. 4. Fig. 29 is a transverse sectional view of the thread-cutting and threadnipping blades of the thread-cutting mechanism.

Fig. 30 is an elevation of the thread-cutting mechanism, the reverse of that shown in full lines in Fig. 28. Fig. 31 is a top face view of the thread-cutter blade-holder, complete. Fig. 32 is a similar view of the thread-cutter b1adeholder, with the cover-plate removed. Fig. 33 is a view of the cover-plate for the parts shown in Fig. 31. Fig. 34 is a section on the line 3 i34, Fig. 31. Fig. 35 is a sectional view on the line 3535, Fig. 34. Fig. 36 is a perspective view of the thread-cutter supporting bracket shown in Fig. 30, and Fig. 37 is a disassembled perspective view of the thread-cutter swing-controlling cam and associated parts, shown in Fig. 30.

The machine is constructed with a including the hollow box-like bed I from one end of which rises the standard 2 of the overhanging bracket-arm 3 terminating in the head 4.

The stitch-forming mechanism is constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure or U. S. Patent No. 1,372,473, dated March 22, 1921, and comprises the usual upper endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle 5 and under thread-looping devices including the threaded looper 6 and loop-retainer l, which upper and under stitch-forming devices are mounted to turn about a vertical axis, as in placing the stitches radially about the eyelet-end of a buttonhole. The well known mechanism for turning the stitch-forming devices about a vertical axis is constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure of U. S. Patent No. 1,162,207, dated November 30, 1915; No. 1,534,017, dated April 21, 1925, and said reissued Patent No. 15,324. The mechanism includes the interconnected upper and lower sector gears 3 and 3 and the stitch-rotating cam-groove I3, Fig. '1, which is cut in the under face of the main feed-Wheel I I mounted as usual in the bed I.

The stitch-forming devices are driven as usual from the main sewing shaft I2 which receives power from the continuously running belt pulley I3 through a known form of clutch I4 controlled by the usual stop-motion lever I5 which is tiltable with its supporting rock-shaft I3 from full line or stop sewing position, Fig. 3, to dotted line or running position, to start the sewing operation. The stop-motion lever I5 is biased to stop sewing position by the spring I! and, when permitted, will automatically resume its stop sewing position.

When the stitch-forming mechanism is being driven, the main feed-wheel II receives a slow step-by-step motion through the gears I8, Fig. 7, from the pin-and-star wheel device I9 which is driven by the main sewing shaft I2 in the usual manner through the bevel gears 20 and vertical shaft 2| from which the upper orneedle-operating shaft 22 is driven. The main feed-wheel H is permanently connected by the large bevel gears 23 to the cross rotary shaft 24 in the bed which cross rotary shaft carries the adjustable patternwheel 25 to be more particularly described.

The work-clamp is of the travelling type and is constructed substantially in accordance with said reissued Patent No. 15,324. It comprises the lower clamp-plates 26 and upper clamp-feet 21 which are depressed into clamping engagement with the work by the connected rock-shaft sections 28, 29, Fig. 4, the former of which is connected to an arm '30, Fig. 1, adapted to be depressed by the usual clamp-closing lever 3| actuated at the beginning of a buttonhole-making cycle by a cam-groove 32, Fig, 5, in a continuously running belt-pulley 33 loose on the button-hole cutter shaft 34. A slide-pin 35, carried by the rearwardly extending arm 36 of the clamp-closing lever 3| is permitted to enter the cam-groove 32 for one revolution of the pulley 33, whereupon it is ejected and latched in ejected position, as explained in U. S. Patent No. 1,832,665, November 17, 1931; the present clamp-closing mechanism being constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure in said U. S. Patent No. 1,832,665.

The clamp-plates 26 are carried by the crossslide plate 31, Fig. 8, which, in turn, is carried by the longitudinal slide-frame 38 to which travelling movements on and lengthwise of the machine-bed l are imparted by the longitudinal feed-cam groove 39 in the main feed-wheel operating on the follower lever 40 fulcrumed at 4| on the bed I and connected at its free end through a disconnectible coupling device 0, Fig. 12, to the longitudinal slide-frame 38.

The disconnectible coupling device 0, whereby the longitudinal feed of the machine may be disabled, comprises the block 42, Fig. 12, having at one end an ear 43 by which it is pivotally connected at 44 to the free end of the lever 40. Drilled in and longitudinally of the block 42 is a hole 45 which slidably receives the pin 45 having at one end a head 46 which is pivoted at 41 to the block 48 screwed to the under side of a member of the longitudinal slide-frame 38 of the work-clamp. Journaled on the block 42 is a spring-biased mounted thereon a safety latch-arm 56 received in a safety recess in the side of the pin 45. The rock-shaft 49 also rigidly carries a latch-arm 52 which engages behind the lug 53 on the side of the head 46 of the pin 45 when the safety latch 50 enters the notch 5|. At this time the head 46 of the pin 45 is in engagement with the proximate end of the block 42 and is locked there by the latch 52. The safety notch 5| and arm 50 prevent interference between the latch 52 and lug 53 until the lug 53 reaches a position where the latch 52 is free to drop in behind it, Fig. 11. Fast to the rock-shaft 49 is the upstanding operating arm 54 which extends across the outer edge of the lever arm 55, Fig. 3, fast on the vertical rockshaft 56 journaled in brackets 51 at the left hand side of the bed I. The rock-shaft 56 also has fast thereto the rearwardly extending stop-motion-latch-tripping arm 58 and the forwardly extending arm 59 which is acted upon by the camrise 60 on the pattern-wheel 25.

The stop-motion lever I5 is, at times, latched in running position by the spring-biased latchlever 6| which is fast on the vertical rock-shaft 62 rock-shaft 49 having rigidly journaled at the rear end of the bed I. The lever 6| has a notch affording a locking shoulder 63 engaged by the angle-piece 64 on the arm 65 depending from and fast on the rock-shaft |6 which carries the stop-motion lever IS. The rock-shaft 62 also carries the lever-arm 66 having a roller 61 in position to be engaged by the stop-motion latch-tripping arm 58, as shown in Figs. 9'and 10.

Means are provided to lock the longitudinal slide-frame of the work-clamp against movement on the bed I whenever the longitudinal-feed coupling c is disconnected. To accomplish this, there is secured to the longitudinal slide-frame 38, Fig. 9, a rearwardly extending bar 68, Figs. 9, 22 and 23, having locking notches 69 in its outside edge. The vertical rock-shaft 56 carries a stiff spring-arm 10 on which is mounted a locking tooth 1| having an inclined cam-face 12. This cam-face 12 initially engages a tooth 69', as shown in Fig. 22, and, in entering the adjoining notch 69, cams the bar 68 forwardly, thus imparting a small reverse movement or back-feed to the longitudinal slide-frame 38 which has been moving toward the right, Figs. 8 and 9, in sewing the return side of the buttonhole. The action of the vertical rock-shaft 56 which trips the stop-motion latch 6|, disconnects the longitudinal slide-frame from the longitudinal feed-cam, and imparts a small back-feed movement to the longitudinal slide-frame, is all brought about by the cam rise or incline 68 on the pattern-wheel at the close of the second or return side stitching operation of the buttonhole, before the barring operation.

The lateral feed motions of the work-clamp which are compounded with the longitudinal feed-motions of the work-clamp to sew around a buttonhole are, in the present machine derived from the lateral feed-cam groove 13 in the pattern-wheel 25. The camgroove 13 is entered by the lower end of the slide-bolt 14 which is carried b the lateral feed-lever 15 fulcrumed at 16 on the bed I and carrying at its forward end a block 11 which is received in the longitudinal slideway 18 in the block 19 screwed to the crossslide plate 31. The slide-bolt 14 is carried in the cylindrical boss Bilat the rear end of the lever 15 and has a finger-piece or pin 8| projecting laterally from it through an inverted L-shaped slot 82, Fig. 16, in the boss 86. When this pin 8! is turned into the vertical leg of the inverted L shaped slot, it is depressed by the leaf-spring 83 to the lower end of such slot. In this position the slide-bolt 14 is free to ride the bottom of the lateral feed-cam groove 13 and to follow and be controlled by said cam groove even in the regions 84 where the checks of said groove are cut away to a certain radial extent or level. When the slide bolt is raised to its higher level and the finger-piece 8| thereof turned into the horizontal portion of the inverted L-shaped slot 82, Fig. 16. the slide-bolt still runs in the cam groove 13 and is controlled thereby in all regions thereof except the region 84 where the cheeks or side wallsof the cam groove 13 are cut away. It is in this region that the cam groove 13 controls the lateral feed of the work'clamp in sewing around the eyelet end of the buttonhole. When it is desired to produce a straight buttonhole, that is, a buttonhole having'no eyelet end, the slide-bolt is raised to its higher position, Fig. 16, so that it is not under the control of the cam-groove 13 when encountered by the cut away side-portions 84 at the eye-forming portion thereof. At'this period of the cycle the travelling key 85 on the bracket 85 fastened to the longitudinal slide frame 38 enters a diametrical slot 81 in the upper end of the slide bolt M and locks the work-clamps against lateral displacement when out of control of the lateral feed-cam groove 13. When in its lower position the slide bolt 14 is not encountered by the locking key 85. Thus, by setting the slide bolt 74 in either of two positions, the machine may be made to produce either an eyelet-end or a non-eyelet-end buttonhole, at the will of the operator.

The longitudinal feed-cam groove 39 is designed to impart to the work-clamp a certain fixed overall longitudinal motion. At the start of a buttonhole-producing cycle the work-clamp occupies 'a position at one extreme end of its range of longitudinal travelling movement, known as buttonhole-cutting position. When the machine is started, the connected feed and pattern-wheels H, are at first driven by a rapid-feed driving mechanism to carry the work-clamp quickly from starting position to the point of its longitudinal motion where the stitching is to begin. When this point is reached the stitch-forming mechanism is started and the rapid-feed drive is thrown out. The stitching then progresses down the first side of the buttonhole, around the eyelet-end and back along the return side of the buttonhole to a point adjacent the first stitch, at which point the stitch-forming mechanism is stopped. In machines of the prior art adapted to sew unbarred buttonholes of variable length it is customary at this point to throw in the rapid feed driving mechanism to effect a quick return of the work-clamp to its initial position (buttonhole cutting position). In other machines of the prior art adapted to sew taper-barred buttonholes of variable length such, for example, as the machine of U. S. Patent No. 2,190,614, February 13, 1940, the lateral feed-cam includes two barring camsections which are peripherally adjustable to vary the timing of their operation in the longitudinal travel of the work-clamp.

The present machine works on a different principle. Here, the lateral feed-cam has only one barring cam-section 88, Figs. 18, 21, 26 and 2'7. This barring cam-section is fixed in its timing on the pattern-wheel 25, that is, it is not peripherally adjustable on the pattern-wheel. It may, however, be removed and replaced by a similar cam-section designed to increase or decrease the number of stitches in the bar. The barring cam section 88 is so positioned or timed on the pattern-wheel as to encounter the follower slide-bolt M as soon as practicable after completion of the return side stitching operation of the longest buttonhole within the range of the machine. For shorter barred buttonholes, instead of providing for a change of timing of the barring cam-section 88 by adjusting it peripherally of the patternwheel, it is, in the present machine, retained in a fixed position on the pattern-wheel and, when the return side stitches of the buttonhole are completed, the sewing mechanism is stopped, the work-clamp is disconnected from the longitudinal feed-cam and locked against longitudinal shift. The rapid-feed is thrown in to drive the feed-cam system idly around to bar-stitch sewing position, whereupon the sewing mechanism is again started and stopped to sew the bar. After this, the rapid feed-drive is again thrown in to operate an auxiliary mechanism to return the workclamp to its initial or buttonhole cutting position where it is reconnected to the longitudin al feed-cam in readiness for the next buttonhole-producing cycle.

In the particular embodiment of the invention herein shown and described, the bar is what is known as a square-bar. That is, it is sewn square across the end of the buttonhole. To accomplish this, it is preferable that the sewing mechanism be turned about its vertical axis, say between the time of completion of the last side stitch and the first bar stitch. There is thus an intimate timed relationship between the barring cam-' section 88 on the pattern-wheel and the eccentrio stitch-rotating portion IQ of the stitchrotating cam-groove Ill in the main feed-wheel ii. This relationship is not disturbed by any adjustment of the present machine. The timing is made right for the longest buttonhole within the range of the machine and, for shorter buttonholes, the cam-system is rapidly and idly turned variable angular distances, depending upon the length of the buttonhole, from the variable posit on where the sewing mechanism is stopped at the completion of the return side-stitching oper ation, to an invariable barring position.

The pattern-wheel 25 with which the present machine is equipped comprises a main supporting disk 89 having a ,large cylindrical extension constituting a bearing or arbor for a pair of internally toothed rings 9!, 92. These rings are held on the arbor $53 by the face-plate 93. Journaled in the coaxial holes in the disk 89 and faceplate 93 is the shaft 94 to which is fixed the pinion S5 meshing with the internal gear teeth of the outer ring 95, only, as shown in Fig. 18. Also journaled in the disk 39 and face-plate 83 are the supporting shaft extensions 98, Fig. 20, of the pinion 9'! which is equal in size to and meshes with the pinion 95 and also with the internal gear-teeth of the inner ring 92 but not with the teeth of the outer ring iii. The shaft 94 is fitted with the knurled head 98 by which it may be turned to adjust the rings 9!, G2 simultaneously and to equal extents in opposite directions'upon andrelative to-the disk 85. The rings may be clamped in adjusted position by the clamp-nut 39 and pressure head Hit, 19, carried by the small plate Ii]! under the nut 99 which is threaded upon the bolt 32 passing through the disk 89.

The inner ring 92 carries the start-sewing cam rise segment ill? the outer edge of which engages the follower nose it' l of the lever 05, connected by the link N26 to the lever arm 65 of the stop-motion device to shift the stop-motion lever E5 to its dotted line or running position, Fig. 3; the cam-segment Hi3 having a total height sufficient to shift the lever-arm B5 far enough for the shoulder 63 of the latch-lever 6| to engage the angle piece 64 and latch the stop-motion lever It in running position. As shown, the cam-segment I03 has a rather abrupt nose which initially engages the follower Hi4 and has a rise sufficient to shift the levers 65 and I5 far enough to start the sewing mechanism but not far enough to allow the latch El to drop into retaining position relative to the lever 65. The abrupt nose of the cam-segment I03 is followed by a more gradual rise terminating at the crest I03 which is high enough to permit engagement of the shoulder 63 of latch 6! with the angle-piece 64 on lever- 65. This provides an easy motion of the parts to sewing position and relieves the parts of undue strain. The outer ring 9|, Fig. 25, carries the stop-sewing cam 69 which trips the latch 6| at the end of the return side stitching operation. The cam 60 has an arcuate tail portion I 01 which hold th follower-lever 59 and longitudinal slide-frame locking tooth II in the locking position, Fig. 9, until after the bar is sewn. Each of the elements I03 and 68 is peripherally adjustable upon its respective ring carrier 92 and 9|, as shown in Fig. 25.

There is screwed to the face-plate 93 a segmental plate I08 which is thick enough to meet the operative edge of the tail-piece IE7 of the longitudinal slide-frame locking cam 65 and hold the lock on, after the tail-piece i8! rides beyond the follower-lever 59. The segmental plate has an end shoulder I89 which finally releases the follower-lever 59 to unlock the longitudinal slide-frame and release the latch-lever 54 of the coupling device c, between the longitudinal slide-frame and the longitudinal feedcam lever 49. This occurs in the final rapid-feed of the cam-system after the bar-sewing operation is completed.

The present machine may be adjusted to sew buttonholes with or without an eye and tcsew around or to suspend sewing at the eye end. To sew a buttonhole without an eye and with sewing suspended, means are provided to stop and start the sewing operation at the eye end of the buttonhole. To this end the locking bar 68 extending rearwardly from the longitudinal slideframe 38 is fitted at its free end with a cross slide pin II?! which may b manually shifted from inoperative position shown in full lines in .Figs. 5, 8 and 9 to dotted line position, Fig. 8, where its enlarged head-end H9 is effective to engage the reduced upper end El' of the roll E] and trip the latch-lever GI to release the stop-motion lever I and stop the stitch-forming mechanism, when the longitudinal slide-frame nears the end of its initial travelling. movement. The cross slide pin I I3 is mounted in a block I Iil Figs. 3 and 8, which is mounted for adjustment on and lengthwise of the longitudinal slide-frame extension bar 68, by the usual screw IH! and slot III) expedient. Thus, the. point at the end of the buttonhole where the first side stitching operation may be stopped, is variable by adjustment of the slide-pin II!) lengthwise of its carrier bar 68.

To start the sewing mechanism for the sewing of the return side of the buttonhole there is adjustably mounted on the pattern-wheel disk 89. a start-sewing cam-segment II which is in the same plane as the cam-segment I03 previously described and, like the latter, has an abrupt nose followed by a gradual rise sufiicient to shift the stop-motion lever to a position where it will be retained in running position by the latch-lever 6!, after the segment I I I rides beyond the follower-nose I84.

There is screwed to the thick segmental plate I08 a thinner segmental plate II2 which has a cam-incline II3 timed to engage and operate the lower horizontal leg I I4 of the needle-thread tension-release lever II5 at-a time in the cycle im mediately after completion of the bar sewing operation and substantially simultaneous with the unlocking of the longitudinal slide-frame. needle-thread tension-release mechanism be,- tween the lever H5 and the tension device H5 is of usual construction and is disclosed in U. S. Patent No. 2,165,016; July 4, 1939. When the machine is at rest, Fig. 3, the needle-thread tension device H6 is held released. It is restored during the initial rapid feedof. the work-clamp from,

buttonhole cutting position to the position where The r consequently the follower-nose M sewing begins, when the machine is set to produce the longest: buttonhole within its range.

To. start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism for the sewing of the bar there is secured directly to the pattern-wheel body-disk 89 the segmental plates Ill, II8, the former presenting the start-bar-sewingcamrise I I9 and the latter the stop-bar-sewing drop-off shoulder I29 which plates ride under and are engaged by the follower nose IM. of the stop-motion control lever I05. The outer radially coincident edges of the segmental plates I.II are not high enough to displace the stop-motion. lever 65 far enough for engagement of the latch 6| with the angle-plate 64,

rides the coincident circular edges of the segmental plates 1, II8 throughout the bar-sewing period and the sewing stopswhen' the nose I84 drops off of ths shoulder I20. The plates II'I, II8 are secured to the body disk 89 by the screw I2I which passes through arcuate slots-in the plates. I I 1, I I8 permitting independent. timing adjustments thereof- The purposefor these adjustmentsisto compensate-for either an. increase or decrease of the Width of bight of the sewing, or Width of buttonhole cutting space between the side stitches of the buttonhole, which changes would call for anincrease or decrease in the length of the stitched bar. Also, these adjustments permitthe bar to be shifted. tothe right or left of the buttonhole.

After the buttonhole has been completely stitched and barred, the longitudinal. slide-frame 38isunlocked by the dropping of the lever 59 off of the end shoulder I69 of the thick segmental plate I 08 on. the pattern-wheel 25 and it remains to shift the longitudinal slide-frame, which at this time is not coupled tothelongitudinal feedcam39, back to initial or buttonhole cutting position. Tothis end there-is provided an auxiliary clamp-shifting mechanism, as follows:

Cut in the inner face of the bevel gear 23- on the cross rotary shaft 24 of the cam system of the machine is the cam-slot I22, Fig. 15, entered by the follower roll I23 onthe vertical lever I24 fulcrumed at I25 on the frame-bracket I25.. The lever I24 is connected by the link I21 to the horizontal lever I28, Fig. 11, fulcrumed on thebearing stud I29 which-supports the mainfeed wheel II and carrying at its free end a roller stud I 30 in position to engage and operate the floating intermediate lever I3I fulcrumed at I 32 on the bed I. The lever I3I floats between the roller stud I38 and the head 48 of the coupling rod 45 which pivotally carries the block 47 screwed to the longitudinalslide-frame 38. The function of the floating lever I3I is to transmit the-rather sharply curved-or arcuate motion of the roller-stud I30 on the lever I28-to the rectilinearly movable head 46 of the coupling rod 45 in pushing the longitudinal slide-frame back to initial position. The portion of the cam-slot I22. from a to b, Fig. 15, acts to restore thelongitudinal slide-frame to initial position, while the portion from d'to e isshaped to withdraw the lever I28 from the floating lever I3I fast enough toavoid blocking the advanceof the longitudinal slide-frame under the influence of thelongitudinalfeed-cam 39 early in a buttonhole producing cycle.

When the lever 59 is released by the patternwheel shoulder I09 to unlock the longitudinal slide-frame and release the latch-lever 54 from its dotted line position, Fig. 14; therock-shaft 49 and safety latch-arm Bil-immediately move under the influence of their biasing spring until the nose 56 of the lever 56 engages the cylindrical wall of the coupling rod 45 on which it rides until the rod and longitudinal slide-frame 63 are restored to initial position, whereupon the nose 56 drops into the safety-notch i, as shown in Fig. 114, and the latch-arm 52 engages behind the lug 53 on the slide-pin head 56 and locks the latter to the block 32. This re-connects the longitudinal slideframe 38 to the longitudinal feed-cam 39. When the machine is at rest, Fig. 11, the lever I28 and follower-roll I35, with the floating intermediate lever list are at one extreme position and serve to lock the longitudinal slide-frame against movement from initial position until the machine is started, whereupon the follower-roll I66 is withdrawn as above explained.

The rapid feed mechanism is called upon to operate at least three times in the buttonhole producing cycle of the present machine; first, to rapidly shift the work-clamp from buttonhole cutting position to a position where the sewing is to begin; second, to idly turn the feed-cam system to barring position at the close of the return side stitching operation; and third, to restore the work-clamp to buttonhole cutting position after the bar is sewn. It may be called upon to operate to rapid feed at the eye end of a non-eyed buttonhole, in case the machine is set to stop the sewing near the end of the first side-stitching operation by setting the slide-pin I It] in its dotted line position, Fig. 8.

The rapid-feed .drive of the connected feedcam II and pattern-wheel 25, is accomplished by the constantly running rapid-feed drive-shaft $33 which carries a worm 134 meshing with a gear H55 fixed to the hub E36 of a live clutch element I61 loose on the cross rotary shaft 26. Within the live-clutch element E31 is a drivenclutch element I38 including the tails I69 of clutch-dog operators. When the tails I36 are expanded by the cone t ll slidable on the cross rotary shaft 2d, the clutch is released and the cross rotary shaft 24 is disconnected from the rapid-feed drive-shaft I63. When the cone I46 is withdrawn from the tails I39 of the clutch- L dog-operating levers, the clutch is engaged and the shaft 24 is coupled to its drive-shaft I33 or, in other words, the rapid-feed is thrown in. This rapid-feed mechanism is, so far, constructed substantially in accordance with the .disclosure of said U. S. Reissue Patent 15,324.

The clutch-operator is constituted by a crossslide rod I lI carrying an arm E62 having at its free end a fork I63 which engages the grooved hub of the cone N16. The cross-slide rod I lI is biased by the coil-spring I64 in a direction to throw out the rapid-feed. The rod MI is shoved endwise against the pressure of the spring I44, to throw in the rapid-feed, by the continuously reciprocating push-bar I55 which is pivoted at I46, Fig. 5, to the arm I41 of a bell-crank I48 actuated by the crank I46 the rapid-feed driveshaft I33. The push-bar I45 is held by the latch 56 in a depressed position, Figs. 1 and-1'1, where it may reciprocate idly. When the latch I56 is swung over to release the push-bar I55, the latter is drawn upwardly by its spring 55, effecting engagement of the stud-pin I52 on the cross-slide shaft IQI by the shoulder I53 on the push-bar I45 which thereupon shoves the cross-slide shaft MI to its extreme rapid-feed throw-in position in which it is retained by engagement of the shoulder I54 on the latch-lever I55 by the lower edge of the plate I56 on the hub of the forked arm I42.

The latch I50 is engaged by a lever-arm I51 on the rock-shaft I58 which is journaled in the bed I and has rigidly connected to it two arms I56, I66 by means of which it may be operated to throw in the rapid-feed. The first mentioned arm I59 carries a spring-pressed tripping tooth IGI which is engaged and depressed by the pin I62 on the downwardly extending arm I63 of the three-armed clamp-closing lever 3|, 36, I63, which at the beginning of a buttonhole-producing cycle receives an impulse from a clamp-closing cam-groove in the inner face of the continuously running belt-pulley 33 loose on the buttonholecutter shaft 64, previously referred to. The second mentioned arm I66 of the rock-shaft I58 is actuated to throw in the rapid-feed by the toothed lever I64 which engages the arm I60 whenever the stop-motion lever I5 acts to stop the sewing operation. The actuating mechanism for the toothed lever is the same as that disclosed in U. S. Patent No. 1,504,306, of August 12, 1924.

The throw-out of the rapid feed is accomplished by tripping the latch-lever I55 to release the spring-biased clutch-operator slide-rod MI. The latch-lever I55, Figs. 5 and 17, has an extension I65 which enters the forked end I66 of a lever I61 fulcrumed at I68 on the inner wall of the bed I. The lever I61 has a free end portion I69 which is in position to be engaged by the rapid feed throw-out tooth I10 fixed on the inner face of the pattern-wheel 25. The tooth I16 is the tooth which throws out the final rapid-feed action after the work-clamp has been restored to buttonhole-cutting position at the close of a buttonhole-producing cycle. All of the rapid-feed actions in the present machine which precede this final rapid-feed action are terminated by the shift of the stop-motion control link I06 through the usual mechanism disclosed in U. S. Patent No. 2,196,614; February 13, 1940. Such mechanism includes the upstanding link-actuated lever I1I, Fig. 11, fulcrumed on the screw I68 and having a lateral extension I12 which bears upon the thrust-bar I13 which is fulcrumed at I14 between the spaced ears I15 rigid with the lever I61. Further details of this known mechanism are fully disclosed in said U. S. Patent No. 2,190,614 and need not be more particularly described herein. It will suffice to explain that every time the link I06 is shifted endwise to start the Sewing mechanism, the immediately preceding rapidfeed action is automatically thrown-out by action of the lever I1I on the lever I61 through the thrust-bar I13. This automatically takes care of (l) the discontinuance of the initial rapid feed of the work-clamp from starting position to the position where the sewing is to begin; (2) the discontinuance of the rapid feed at the eyeend of the buttonhole When the machine is set to sew a non-eyed buttonhole and the sewing is stopped and started at such end to avoid overcrowding of the stitches; and (3) the discontinuance of the rapid-feed action between the return side stitching operation and the bar stitching operation. The final rapid-feed action is, as before explained, terminated by action of the tooth I10 on the lever I61.

The machine has a conventional under thread tension-device I16, Fig. 4, and spring-biased tension-release lever I11 fulcrumed at ITB on the bed-frame and carrying two spaced pins I19 between which extends the arm I8II of a rock-shaft iSI extending with and lengthwise of the bed I and through the rear end wall of the latter where it carries the arm 32 that is acted upon by the inclined face I83 of a block I84 carried at the lower end of the stop-motion operating lever 65. The mechanism functions to release the under thread tension when the stop-motion device functions to stop the stitch-forming mechanism. The mechanism is fully disclosed in U. S. Patent No. 2,210,638, granted August 6, 1940.

The machine has the conventional buttonhole cutting mechanism including the coacting upper and lower cutter levers I85, I88, Fig. 1, which are driven in the usual manner by the one-rotation buttonhole-cutter shaft 34. While the present machine is designed to cut the buttonhole after sewing, it is entirely immaterial to the invention whether the buttonhole is out before or after sewing.

Thread trimmer The machine is provided with the following means to cut and hold the needle-thread. The thread-cutting and -nipping implement comprises a thick plate-like body-member I 81 on which is rigidly mounted a thin fixed blade I88 having a shear cutting edge I89. Fulcrumed on the pin I 59 is the movable blade I9I having a shear cutting edge I92 complemental to the fixed shear cutting edge I89. The body-member I 81 has a slideway I 93 cut longitudinally thereof and in this slideway is located the slide-bar I94 having in one edge a semi-circular recess I95 for the circular end I 93 of the movable blade I9I. A biasing spring I9'I connects a pin I98 on the slide-bar I94 to a fixed pin I99 on the body-plate I81. This spring urges the movable cutter to close to full line position, Figs. 29 and 31. A cover plate 200, having a hook 20I at its lower end, is screwed to the body-plate I81 to hold the slidebar and movable cutter blade in their respective ways in the body plate I81. From the foregoing it will be apparent that a push at the end of the bar I94 remote from the shear cutters will open the latter and when such a push is relieved the cutters will close and sever the thread, at the same time nipping the needle end of the thread between the movable blade I 9| and the cover plate 200,

The body-plate I81 and parts carried thereby is screwed to the head 202 of a tubular shaft 203 which is journaled in a bearing support at one end of a carrier lever 294 fulcrumed at 205 on the vertical arm 296 of a bracket 20'! pinned to the lower end of the stationary fulcrum stud 208 of the upper stitch-rotating sector gear 8. Fast to the tubular shaft 203 is the hub 209 of a camplate 2I9 having a curved cam-slot 2II therein that receives a roller-stud 2I2 on the vertical arm 299 of the bracket 201. The cam-slot 2H and stud 2I2 serve to impart a limited rocking movement to the thread-cutter implement on the axis of its tubular fulcrum shaft 203 relative to its carrier lever 204, when such carrier lever is operated to advance the thread-cutter implement from retracted position (dotted lines Fig. 28) to thread-cutting position (full lines Fig. 28).

Journaled in the tubular fulcrum shaft 203 is a rock-shaft 2I3 having at one end a tappet arm 2| 4 the toe end 2I5 of which is so positioned as to engage and push upon the end of the slide bar I9'4 to open the thread-cutter blade NH. The rock-shaft 2 l3 has fixed to its opposite end a crank-arm 2 I 6 carrying at its free end the pivoted and spring biased toe-piece 2|! which, in the cutter-advancing movement of the carrier-lever 2104 engages the cam-piece 2I8 of the arm 2I9 fixed to the bracket 201. This engagement of the toepiece 2II with the cam piece 2I8 rocks the shaft 2 I3 in the tubular shaft 203 and causes the tappet toe 2 I5 to push in the slide-bar I94 and open the cutter-blade I9I. As soon as the toe piece 2II passes beyond the cam-piece 2I8 the slide-bar I94 is released and drawn by its spring I91 to close the blades I9I, I 88, 290 upon the needlethread, as shown in Fig. 28. In the return movement of the carrier-lever 204, the toe-piece 2I'I Wipes idly past the cam-piece 2I8, being free to swing on its pivot screw 2 I 9 in this direction. The stop-screw 220, which is engaged by the tail 22I of the toe-piece 2I I, prevents swinging of the toepiece 2|? in the reverse direction when thie thread-cutter is advanced to full line position, Fig. 28.

When the thread-cutter is retracted after cutting and nipping the end of needle thread leading to the needle 5, the heel 222 of the tappet-arm 2I4 is brought into engagement with the stationary abutment 223 vertically adjustably mounted on the bracket-arm head 4 of the machine frame. The initial engagement of the heel 222 with the abutment 223 is a more contact, not sufiicient to cause the tappet-arm 2I4 to open the thread-nipper blade -I9I. A slight further retraction of the carrier-lever 204, before the initial stitch of the next buttonhole is made, opens the blade I9I and releases the beginning end of the needle-thread.

The carrier-lever 204 is 224, Figs- 4 and 1, to a 229 to the bracket 22! fast to the underside of the frame-arm 3. The lever 225 is connected by the link 228 to the crooked lever 229 which is screwed to a lower lever-arm 230 fulcrumed at 239 within the standard 2 and having at its lower end a roller 23I tracking the cam 232 on the cross rotary shaft 24. The spring 233, Fig. 1, applied to the lever 229 retains the follower-roll 23I against the cam 232. The cam 232 has a let off notch 234 which releases the lever 229 and allows the thread-cutter to advance and cut and seize the needle-thread during the final rapidfeed movement of the cross rotary shaft 24. The cam 232 also has a slight rise at 235 to effect the release of the beginning end of needle-thread before the needle starts down on its first stitch. This release rise terminates at the point 239, Fig. 2. 7

To pull suflicient slack needle-thread from the supply for the beginning of the sewing operation, there is secured to the clamp-closing lever 3I, Fig. 1, a pull-oil rod 231 which rises through the guide 238 and has at its upper end a horizontal portion 239, Fig. 3, working between two stationary thread-guides 249. At the time the clamp-closing lever 3| operates, the needlethread tension is held open by the lever I I5 and tail of the tension-release segment II2 on the pattern-wheel 25. The pull-off is adjusted to measure enough needle-thread from the supply so that the beginning end of needle-thread will be drawn down flush with the work by the stitchforming instrumentalities.

The usual gimp or cord G is supplied to the needle-throat member 24I through a gimp pull off and slack-giving device including the gimptension device 242 which is carried by the lever 243, Fig. 1, actuated by the cross-rotary shaft 24, substantially in accordance with the disclosure of U. S. Patent No. 2,210,638, granted August 6, 1940.

connected by the link lever 225 fulcrumed at Operation The operation is briefly as follows: At the start of the operation the tripping of the clamp-closing mechanism causes the actuation of the threearmed clamp-closing lever 31!, 36, I53 which closes the work-clamp and actuates the needlethread pull-off 239. The thread trimmer is in retracted position and is closed. The recovery motion of the clamp-closing lever causes the studpin &2 to engage and operate the lever I59 to trip the rapid-feed into action to shift the workclamp from initial position to the position where sewing is to begin, In that shift of the workclamp the thread trimmer is further retracted to cause the stationary abutment 223 to release the needle-thread end. The pattern-wheel camrise I83 starts the sewing mechanism; the stopmotion lever being latched in running position. The sewing starts at the point 8, Fig. 6, and continues to and around the eyelet-end t to the point it which is a little short of the starting point 8 measured lengthwise of the buttonhole. When the end point it is reached the stitch-forming mechanism is stopped and the longitudinal slideframe of the work-clamp is uncoupled from the longitudinal feed-cam and given a slight reverse feed movement by the inclined face 72 of the locking pin H which looks the longitudinal slideframe in barring position, The action of the stop-motion causes the pawl I64, Fig. l, to trip the rapid feed into operation to feed the cam system idly around to a constant barring position just previous to which the stitch-forming mechanism is preferably turned around its vertieal axis to bar-stitching position.

The cam rise H9 on the pattern-wheel starts the bar-sewing operation which proceeds from i the point '0, Fig. 6, square across the end of the buttonhole to the point w. It will be noted that the bar overlaps the end stitches at both sides of the buttonhole. When the bar is completed the drop-off shoulder I29 on the pattern-wheel releases the stop-motion lever l5 which returns to stopping position to stop the sewing mechanism. The stop-motion operation again throws in the rapid-feed mechanism which returns the work-clamp to buttonhole cutting position for the buttonhole cutting operation. The thread is out after the bar is completed and before the work-clamp is shifted out of barring position.

When the machine is at rest, the thread-cutter is in its retracted position closed upon the end of needle-thread running to the needle. When the machine is started, the pull-off is operated by the clamp-closing lever to pull a constant amount of thread from the supply so that the initial thread end will be drawn down flush with the work in the formation of the first stitch. During the initial rapid feed movement of the cross-rotary shaft at, before the sewing starts, the thread--cutter is further retracted by the rise on earn 232 sufficiently to release the needlethread end. This occurs before the work-clamp is moved away from initial position. The machine now sews and bars the buttonhole. Early in the final rapid feed, after barring, the threadcutter is advanced and closed upon the needlethread, The tension is released by the cam incline H3 on pattern-wheel segmental plate H2. During reverse rotation of stitch-forming mechanism and return movement of work-clamp to initial position, the closed thread-cutter is retracted to initial position and it pulls a constant Length of thread downwardly through eye of needle for any length buttonhole the machine may be set to produce to begin the next sewing operation and secure uniformity in the final hidden disposition of the beginning end of needlethread flush with the work,

The present thread-trimmer is mounted to operate in a fixed path with respect to the sewing needle while the work-clamp is locked in barring position regardless of the length of the buttonhole within the range of the machine.

The compound motion of the thread-trimmer, shown by the upwardly convex curved dot-anddash line in Fig. 28, carries the trimmer over the top of the clamp-foot 21 and thence downwardly to clear the needle-point by a sui'ncient margin.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention what I claim herein is:

1. A square-bar buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism turnable about a vertical axis, work-holding means, means to give the stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means a relative movement lengthwise of the buttonhole, adjustable means to start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to sew up one side and down the return side of the buttonhole of any desired length within the range provided, means to turn the stitch-forming mechanism about a vertical axis while the stitch-forming mechanism is functionally at rest, means to again start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to sew the barring stitches, and means to give the stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means. a relative movement sidewise of the buttonhole to place the barring stitches square across the end of the buttonhole,

2. A square-bar buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism turnable about a vertical axis, work-holding means, means to give the stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means a relative movement lengthwise of the buttonhole, adjustable means to start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to sew up one side and down the return side of the buttonhole of any desired length within the range provided, means to turn the stitch-forming mechanism about a vertical axis while the stitch-forming mechanism is functionally at rest, adjustably timed means to again start and stop the stitchforming mechanism to sew the barring stitches, and means to give the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means a relative movement sidewise of the buttonhole to place the barring stitches square across the end of the buttonhole.

3. In a machine for sewing a square-bar buttonhole, turret-supported stitch-forming mechanism, a stop-motion therefor, a work-holder, a feed-cam system and connections to relatively move the stitch-forming mechanism and Workholder in sewing up one side and down the return side of a buttonhole, adjustable means running with said feed-cam system to control the operation of said stop-motion and thus determine the length of the buttonhole, means to turn the turret supported stitch-forming mechanism about a vertical axis after the stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest, means to again start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to sew a squarebar across the finishing endof the buttonhole, and means to relatively move the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder sidewise of the buttonhole to position the bar stitches across the end thereof.

4. In a buttonhole sewing machine, turretsupported stitch-forming mechanism, a Workholder, a feed-cam system including a longitudinal feed-cam, a lateral feed-cam including a bar-stitch-controlling portion, adjustable means to start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to side stitch a buttonhole of any desired length within the range provided, means operative to uncouple the longitudinal feed-connections and to turn the feed-cam system to bar-stitch-controlling position, and means to again start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to sew barstitches at the beginning end of the buttonhole.

5. An adjustable machine for sewing barred buttonholes of various lengths having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, a feed-cam system making one revolution per buttonhole-producing cycle and including a longitudinal feed-cam and connections actuated thereby to relatively move the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means over a, fixed maximum range lengthwise of the buttonhole, a stop-motion device for the stitchforming mechanism and adjustable controlling means therefor to start and stop the stitchforming mechanism whereby the length of the stitched buttonhole may be determined, said feed-cam system also including a side-shift feedcam having a bar-stitch-controlling portion fixedly timed in said system to function after a buttonhole of maximum length within the range of the machine has been stitched, adjustable automatic means to uncouple the longitudinal feed-connections at the completion of the sidestitching operations on a buttonhole and to drive the feed-cam system to bar-stitch-controlling position, and means to again start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to sew the bar stitches While the longitudinal feed-connections remain uncoupled.

6. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a stopmotion therefor, a work-holder, a feed-cam system including a longitudinal feed-cam and connections for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanisms and work-holder over a fixed range longitudinally of a buttonhole, said feed-cam system also including a lateral feed-cam having a bar-stitch-controlling portion, adjustable stopmotion controlling means to start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to side stitch a buttonhole of any selected length within the range provided, means operative to uncouple the longitudinal feed-connections and turn the feed-cam system to bar-stitch controlling position, means to again start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to sew bar-stitches at the beginning end of the buttonhole, means to relatively shift the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to initial position, and means to recouple the longitudinal feed-connections.

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a work-holder, of a longitudinal feed-cam making one rotation per buttonhole producing cycle and articulated connections actuated thereby for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder lengthwise of a buttonhole, and automatic means to uncouple said connections and thus render the feed-cam ineffective for a portion of a buttonhole producing cycle.

8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a work-holder, of a longitudinal feed-cam making one rotation per buttonhole producing cycle and articulated connections actuated thereby for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to-and-fro lengthwise of a buttonhole, automatic means to uncouple said connections and thus render the feed-cam ineffective for a portion of a buttonhole producing cycle following the return side stitching operation, and a lateral feed-cam and connections to relatively move the stitch-forming mechanism and workholder sidewise of the buttonhole to bar-stitch the end thereof while the longitudinal feedconnections are uncoupled.

9. A machine for sewing square-bar buttonholes of various lengths comprising, in combination, turret-supported stitch-forming mechanism, a stop-motion for controlling its period of operation, a workholder, a feed-cam system making one rotation per buttonhole producing cycle and including a longitudinal feed-cam, connections actuated by said cam to relatively move the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder over a fixed range lengthwiseof a buttonhole, adjustable means running with said feed-cam system to start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism and thereby determine the length of the stitched buttonhole, said feed-cam system also including a lateral feed-cam having a bar-controlling portion, connections actuated by said lateral feedcam for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder sidewise of the buttonhole, automatic means to uncouple the longitudinal feed-connections when the stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest at the close of the return side stitching of the buttonhole, means to turn the feed-cam system to bar-stitching position, means to again start and stop the stitchforming mechanism to sew a bar at the finishing end of the buttonhole, and means to relatively move the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder back to initial position.

10. Ina buttonhole sewing machine, a workclamp, a lateral feed-lever connected to said workclamp, a cam-follower plunger-pin mounted in said lever and settable in either of two positions lengthwise of the longitudinal axis thereof, a lateral feed-cam having a groove engaged by said plunger-pin, a portion of the cheeks of said cam-groove being cut away so as not to be engaged by said plunger-pin when set in one of its two positions, and locking means movable automatically into engagement with said plunger-pin to lock the lateral feed-lever against movement when said plunger-pin is clear of said camgroove.

11. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, a worn-holder, feeding mechanism including a longitudinal feed cam and connections to relatively move the stitchforming mechanism and work-holder lengthwise of a buttonhole, a stop-motion device for the stitch-forming mechanism, adjustable means to control the stop-motion device and thus determine the length of the stitched buttonhole, adjustable means to disable the longitudinal feed connections at the close of the return side stitching operation of a buttonhole of any selected length, and bar-stitch-positioning means operative after the longitudinal feed connections have been disabled.

12. In a buttonhole sewing machine adapted to sew a bar across the finishing end of the buttonhole, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of work-holding means, means to relatively feed the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means to sew down one side thence back along the return side of a buttonhole and finally across the finishing end of the buttonhole, and means to reversely relatively. feed the stitch-forming mechanism and work