USRE14608E - Machine - Google Patents

Description

- J. G. GREENE & L.: F. A. BCHNER, (DECEASED.)

BuTroNHoLE sEwmG MACHINE.

VAPPLICATION. FILED AUG. 3.v ISHH4 3 SHEETS-SHEET l.

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1-a. GREENE L L. F. A. BUCHNER, @ECE/Issu.)

' BUTTONHOL SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.3. 191B.

missuea Mar. 1I, 1919. 14,608.

3 SHEETS-SH EET 2.

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JFG. GREENE L L. F. A. BCHNER, CDECEASED.)

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHlNE.

APPLKCATION FILED AUG3| l918. lm lssued Mar. 1l, 1919.

WIATNESSES UNITED sTATEs PATENT oEEicE.

JAMES G. GREENE, or ELIZABETH, AND LOUIS E. A. EGHNER, nEcEAsED, LATE or ELIZABETH, NEW JERSEY, AsSIGNoRS To THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY,

A. CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHIE.

Specification of Reissued Letters Patent. Reissued Mar, 11, 1919.

Original No. 1,208,950, dated December 19, 1916, Serial N o. 684,125, filed `March 16, 1912. Application for reissue filed August 3, 1918.

To all 'whom t may concern: t Be it known that JAMES G. GEEENE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Elizabeth, in the county of Union and State f New Jersey, and LOUIS. F. A. BCHNER, de-

sively closed upon the work and spread for a stitching operation and thereafter opened to release the work, and to provide clampoperating means acting independently of the actuating means for the stitch-formin and cutting mechanisms, in order that the timing of the several groups of mechanism may be arranged each independently of the others so as to reduce to a minimum the time required in performing a complete cycle of the entire machine. It has for a further object to provide a simple and effective construction for the work-holder whereby the actuation of a single element thereof will accomplish the closing and opening of the clamping aws and the spreading and drawing together of the separable pairs thereof.

In its preferred embodiment, the Inachine is constructed withrotary stitch-forming mechanism and work-feeding mechanism includincr a dwell-producing member so connected with the stitch-forming mechanism as to produce a semi-rotation thereof while the longitudinal feed of the work is arrested for' stitching an end of the buttonhole. The

work-holder derives its longitudinal feeding movements from a connection with the feeding mechanism, and comprises pairs of separable clamping jawsmovable laterally toward and from each other and adapted to be drawn together into clamping relation by means of a toggle connection with an operating rock-shaft having a loose connection with a slide-plate suitably constructed and seriall No. 248,214.

' connected with the laterally movable clamping jaws to cause them to be Separated and drawn together by the clamp-jaw closing and opening movements of the rock-shaft.

In the present embodiment, the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms are adapted to be connected for operation by one driving element while rtwo independent trains of mechanism are' adapted vfor Aoperative connection with another driving element for effecting the operation of a slit-cutting mechanism and the clamp-opening and closing device, the former being actuated once and the latter twice in each complete cycle of the machine. The clamp-operating mechanism includes a rock-lever having a permanent connection with the operating rock-shaft of the traveling work-holder, which is an important feature of the construction, especially with different adjustments of feedtraverse to which the clamp-operating mechanism adjusts itself without any change consequent upon the adjustment of the feeding mechanism.

The invention will be understood by reference to the drawings annexed hereto, in which Figure 1 is a front vside elevation of a buttonhole stitching and vcutting machine embodying the same and containing stitchforming, feeding and slit-cutting mechanisms constructed in substantial accordance with our applications Serial No. 576,639, filed Aug. 11, 1910, and Serial No. 597,113, filed Dec. 13, 1910; and Fig. 2 is a plan of the same with the frame in section above the `work-plate. Fig. 3 is a rear side elevation of the machine and Fig. 4 a bottom plan of a portion thereof showing the clamp-operating mechanism from the under side. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a portion of the worm-wheel coupling and uncoupling device and Fig. 6.a similar view of one 0f the elements thereof. Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the means for turning the 'stitchforming mechanism backwardV through a semi-rotation into initial 4`position after a stitching operation. Fig. 8 is a front elevation showing the feeding mechanism and controlling device in different positions from those represented in Fig. 1. Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the work-clamp with one pair of the clamping jaws and certain other parts omitted to expose constructive features thereof, and rFig. 10a perspective view of the yunder. side .ofthe lower clamping jaw-plates. y

is'an'edge vieWj'of the clamp slideplate and the lower clamping-jaw-plates applied thereto.h F ig. 12 isan elevation, partly in section, representing thev driving shaft withthe Vclutch mechanism applied thereto, As represented in the drawings, the machine is constructedy with a frame comprising the bed-platel fromy which risesI thev lower base member 2 supporting vthe-fixed f.

work-plateA 3 and the standardl4 with overhanging armr5 constituting the upper frame `member-'which latter, with the standard 4, is

strengthened bv the rib. The arm 5 carries the upper and lower bearingbosses 7 and 8 for the rotary bushings in which isjjournailed-the reciprocating needle-bar 9 carry-y ing the needlev 10. which coperatestinfthe production of overseam stitches, with looper mechanism l1' carried by: the rotary bushing .12 journaledl in the'bearingfboss 13 of the base member 2Q The needle-bar receives, its" reciprocatory movements through a link` connection 14l withfthe forward end of a rock-levei.1t fulcrumed at lupon the arm 5 and havingitsrearward end connectedby means of the pitmanA 17 with` a crank-pin 18 carried by a pinion 19 driven by a gear20 fixed uponlthe transverse main or driving shaft` 21.k The looper mechanism derives its operative movements from a connection with the lateral arni22 of an angle-leverfulcrumedfat 23 upon `the base member 2 and having anv upright`arm 24 deriving vibratory movements from a'connection with the main-shaft. The needle:y receives its overseaming or lateral jogging movements from a rock-lever 25 fulcrumed'. upon the arm 5 and also deriving its' rocking movements from a connection with kthe driving shaft.

The segmental vfeed-pawl carrying plate 2.6 is mounted upon a vibrating lever 27 which is ful'crumed upona stud 28 sustained by the standard 4 and is providedywith a forked arm 29 embracing a slide-block 30 tted upon the actuating eccentric 31 of the main-shaft `21 which thus'in'lparts operative jogging movements to the plate 26. This 50 feed-paw] .carrying plate has .pivotal'ly mounted thereon thefvspring-pressed plural- `armedfpawls 32, 33 and 34 adapted for operativeengagement respectively with the peripheral 'teeth of the ratchet-wheels 35, 36 `and 37, the ratchet-wl'ieels 35 and 36' being connected for simultaneous rotation by means ofthe intermeshing gear or 'feed wheels 38and 39 whiletheratchet-wheel 37,

i as regards the feeding mechanism, exercises f ther function *fof ,a dwell-producing member without ei'ect' in imparting longitudinal ,feeding movements tothe work. Fixed tofand adapted to rotate with th i ratchet-*wheel 36 and gear-wheels 39 is the `feed-pinion 40 meshing with the sliding rack 4l which. ycarries the upwardly lprojecting plate 42 operatively Connected. by Ineens Qf the sectionaljlink-bar 43 with a lug 44j at the' imparting to the work traveling movements to space the stitches.:

A series of spring-pressed detent-levers 46, 47 and 481s pvotally mounted upon the vjogging pawl-carrying plate 26 each adjacent one .of said pawls, and is formed with a .notched extremity adapted for engagement "with an` arm of said pawl. A series of pawllifting levers 49, 50 and 51 is also mounted upon thepawl-carrying plate, each adjacent its respective pawl.

, l/Vhen themachine is at rest, all of the-i pawls are disengaged from their respective ratchet-wheels. At the beginning of a stitching operatiom. the detent-pawl 46 is retracted andv the pawl 32 caused to assumer operative relation. with the ratchet-wheel 35, thereby imparting reverse step-by-step rotary movements to the intermeshing gearwheels 38 and 39 and imparting through the pinionv 40, rack 41 and sectional link-bar 43 the. requisite traveling movements to the work-holder for the rst side-stitching operation. Upon the engagement of the stud-pin 52, carried bythe gear 38, with a lateral arm of the pawl-lifting. member 49, the latter is rocked to retr-act'fthe` pawl 32 which is detained in inoperative positionby the detentlever 46.` i f The rocking ofthe pawl-lifter 49 acts through the connectingI rod 53 to retract the detent-lever-48 tor permit the pawl 34 to assume operative relation with the ratchetwheel 37 which continues during the stitchingof the end of the buttonhole, at the completionof which the engagement of the tripping lug'54, moving with the ratchet-wheel 37 with a lateral arm `of the pawl-lifter 51 .Causes the-extremity of the paWl-lifting arm to 'engage a lateral `arm ofthe pawl 34 to retract the same to, inoperative position, and simultaneously the engagement of a pin 55 carried: by said pawl-lifter with the inturned extremity of the push-rod 56 connected with the detent-lever 47 causes the retraction of thelattery to permit the operative engage-v mounted tripping stud 5-7 which operates` through mechanism to be hereafter de-` scribed in arresting the rotation ofthe mainshaft to interrupt the stitching and feeding actions. In. the presentl instance tripping stud 57 is clamped within the walls of; an annular groove formed in said gear-wheel 39, and is adapted to be adjusted therein after release of the clamping means, which may be of any suitable form. It will be seen that the position of tripping stud 57 on gear-wheel 39, with respect to lever 262, will determine the length of traverse of the work-clamp.. When stud 57 is adjusted on gear-wheel 39 to insure a greater or a less partial revolution of said wheel before said stud trips lever 262 to stop the stitching mechanism, the movement of tripping stud 52 carried by gear-wheel 38 is changed accordingly, by the increased or diminished movement of the intermeshing gear-wheels, so that the succeeding forward and backward movements of the work-clamp are uniform. The detent-lever 46 is shown provided with an upwardly extending arm 58 carrying a tilting contact-plate 59 pivoted thereto by means of the stud 60 and normally maintained in inclined position, as

represented in Figs. 1 and 8, by means of the spring 61.- The descent of a tripping rod 62 carried by an element of the stopmotion device from the position represented in Fig. 1 to that shown in Fig. 8 brings the extremity of said rod into operative engagement with the` contact-plate and thrusts the same backwardly so as to disengage the detent-lever 46 from the feed-pawl 32 to set the feeding mechanism in action at the beginning of a buttonhole stitching operation. While the contact-plate is so mounted, in a manner well know, as to maintain a rigid relation with the supporting arm 58 during the descent of the rod 62, the upward movement of the latter following the tripping of the stop-motion serves to merely tilt the contact-plate out of its own path of movement without rocking the pawl-detainer to prematurely release the initial feed-pawh The work-holder slide-plate 45 is formed with the usual central longitudinal slot 63 embracing the needle-throat 64 containing the needle-aperture 65 and gimp-hole. 66. Around the enlarged end portion of this slot is a U-shaped recess 67 in which is fitted for longitudinal movement the correspondingly shaped spreader slide-plate 68, the parallel branches of which are provided upon the upper faces with convergent guide-lips 69. Mounted upon the slide-plate 45 and overlapping the spreader slide-plate 68 are two clamp-plates 70 with their adjacent edges shaped to conform with the slot 63 and provided also with complemental clearance recesses 71, and provided also on their lower faces with convergent grooves 72 fitted to the ribs 69 of the slide-plate 68.

Secured to the plates 70 by means of screws entering apertures 73 therein, are the bearing blocks 74 provided with alined bearing apertures 75 to receive the operating crank-shaft 76 provided with the crank 7 7 65 the blocks 74 having rearward extensions 78 the upper jaws of a fabric clamp whose l lower jaws 87 are afforded by the upper faces of the clamp-plates 70. The clamparms 83- are embraced intermediate their ends by the forked opposite extremities 88 of a pin 89 which is journaled in the upper end of a split link 90 whose opposite end embraces the pin connecting the crank-arms 77 of the rock-shaft 76. The turning of the rock-shaft 76 forwardly, as viewed in Fig. 9, serves to draw the pin 89 downwardly to depress the clamp-arms 83 and close the clamp upon the work.

At its rearward end, the spreader-plate 68 is formed with an extension 91 containing an aperture 92 whose end walls aiford shoulders for engagement of a finger 93 depending from the link 90. The length of the aperture 92 is considerably greater than the width of the finger 93 so that the latter completes a portion of its lateral movement under the influence of its actuating crankpin before engagement with the spreaderplate extension which latter partakes therefore of a portion only of the entire lateral motion of the link.

As will be observed, the turning of the rock-shaft 76, whose crank is at the side thereof when the clamp is opened, as represented in Fig. 9, causes the immediate depression of the clamp-arms during the initial descent of the crank-pin which is nearly completed before the finger 93 encounters the rearward end of the aperture 92 when the spreader-plate 68 is drawn backwardly and the two clamp-plates 70 forced apart by engagement of the convergent guide-ribs 69 with the clamp-plate grooves 72 entered thereby. As the parts are constructed and arranged to allow the cranks 77 to pass beneath the rock-shaft 7 6, it will be observed that the members 77 and 90 constitute a toggle device which, when thus straightened, affords locking means in the work-holder itself for maintaining the clamp yieldingly closed upon the work.

The bearing blocks 74 are provided in their rearward sides with guideways entered by lateral tongues 94 of the guidebars 95 secured by means of the screws 96 to the slide-plate 45; and the undercut forward edges 97 of the plate 70 are fitted to the similarly shaped rearward edges of guide-blocks 98 secured by means of screws 99 upon the slide-plate 45 adjacent the forward extremities of the recess 67. By these means, the clamp-plates 70 are sustained upon the slide-plate 45 for movement toward and from each other under the action of the spreader-plate 68.

Secured uponthe'forward portion of the slide-plate is` an eXtensionfplatev 100 whose rearward extremity overlaps the forward end of the slot-63 and 'is provided with al gimp-holding spur 101 beneath which the gimp c isadapted to be'fdrawn from the gimp-hole 66v of the needle-throat and thence laterally to the edge ofthe work-plate and beneath-the'holding nipper-spring 102 secured in position by the screw 103. In

vstarting a buttonhole-stitching operation the gimp-lis thusy led parallel with the direction of feed and isv suitably located to receive the initial voverseamA stitches of the edge-covering seam.l f f f The ratchet-wheel 37 is fixed upon the forward end of the vtransverse shaft 104 and has rigidly connected:therewith the toothed sector 105 meshing with but having a diameter double that of the bevel pinion 106 mounted upon the uprightshaft 107 provided at the upper and lower ends with the pinions 108I and 109 engaging the teeth at y the rearward ends ofthe rack-bars 110 and 111 providedwith teeth attheir forward ends in meshwith the pinions 112y and 113 fixed respectively to the upper needle-bar bushing andthe rotary looper-carrier. At

its'lother'end.` andupon the rearward side of the standard 4, the shaft 104 hasy secured thereon a collar 114 provided upon one side with a vradially and forwardly projecting finger 115 and upon the other side with a substantially radial kcam-arm 116. The period of engagement of the pawl 34 with the ratchet-wheel 37 is such that the sector 10,5 with' its supporting shaft `104 is given a quartenturn while the upright shaft 107 receivesa'half-turn,thereby imparting Ato the upper and lower'elements of the stitchforming mechanism a semi-rotation intermediate theforward and backward feeding movements of the work-holder for stitching aroundthe eye of the buttonhole.

The rearward endof the clamp-arm actuating shaft'76 has fixed thereon the collar 117 provided with-a fork 118 in which is pivotally mounted byl means of the screws:` `119` the `block 120 embraced byL and pivotally connected `by screws 121 with the fork 122A of a sleeve 123 longitudinally slotted to receive a feather 124 secured therein Aby means of the transverse pins 125, as represented in Fig. 9. Thefeather 124 enters a keyway 126 of a shaft 127 slidingly ylit-ted within the sleeve 123 and carrying afork 128 pivotallyconnected by means of screws 129 withthe block 130 embraced by andl pivoted by means of screws131 within the fork'132 of the rock-shaft 133 journaled within and sustained by a bearing bracket 134 whose foot 135 is secured to the rearward edge of theworkfplate 3. The intermediate shaft 127 has kthus vuniversal joint connections r.with the shafts 76 and 133. t

The rockeshaft 133 has secured upon its rearward end the crank-arm 136 carrying thestud-pin 137 enteredby one ofthe apertured ends of the link 138 whose opposite end embraces thestud-pin `139 carried by the forwardly extending. arm 140 of the clamp-operating rock-lever 4sustained by the fulcrumscrew 141 and provided with al rigid rearwardly. extending and `inward-1y offset arm 142 terminating in a nose 143 and carrying a lateral pin144; This rock-lever is; providedwith an apert'ured lug 142X adjacent its hub and embraced by the forked rearwardextremity 145 of a laterally swinging arm 146 pivoted tosaid lug by means of the transverse pink 147. The swingingarm 146 is normally maintained yieldingly in substantial alinement with the rigid arm 140 by means of a flat spring 148 secured' soy thereto by means -of a screw 149 withone.

end resting upon-itself and the other upon the lug 142x, astop being afforded by the end of the fork in the endf portion' 145 Aor by engagement of the latter with the point of a stop-screw 150 tapped into they rigid arm 142. 1 j

Sustained by the standard 4 is a .fulcrumf f stud 151 upon. which` iswmountedthehub 152 of. a swinging ylocking lever 153carrying the contact-plate 153x adjacent one edge which is formed with spaced locling'fnotches 154 and 155 tol receive the pin 144 of the rock-lever arm ,142, and provided at .l itsl lower end` with an apertured boss 156 to which is pivotally connected by means of the pin 157 the `offset extremity 158 of a swinging arm 159 carrying a contact-block 1.60 adjacent the;` inturned extremity 146 of the swinging lever-arm 146.

As represented in Fig. 4, the locking arm 153 carries a studfscrew 161 embraced vby one end of a spring162whose opposite end `is attached to a plate 163 secured to a stud 164 projecting fromthe standard 4, whereby the y locking arm is maintained vyieldingly in operative relation with the,y pin l144. yTo the free end? of the swinging arm 159 vis secured the footv 165 of a bent vrod 166 ada-pted for engagement by a rod 167 rigidly secured to and depending from the swinging rock-leverv arm 146. The lever 153 has secured thereto a straightY wire spring v168 which rests against an ear 158X of the mem ber 158 to press the" arm 159 inwardly, whereby itsr rod 166 is maintained'in yield ing contact with the rod 167 carried bythe swinging rock lever-army 146. f

Suitably mounted in a bearing bracket 169 beneath the bed-plate 1 is a counter-shaft 170 provided witha. grooved pulley 171 embraced by a'belt 172; from the source of power.- vThe-shaft` 170 carriesv a bevel pinion 173y meshing rWith. aflmlar pinion 174 fixed upon the upri ht worm-shaft 175 jour; naled in bearings 1 6 of the frame and provided above the lower bearing with a worm 177 meshing with the peripheral teeth of a worm-wheel 17 8 mounted upon the shaft 179 journaled in suitable bearings sustained by the frame.

As represented more particularly in Fig. 5, the worm-wheel 178 is cut out in one side to form a radial recess for reception of the slide-block 180 formed in one end with the complemental worm-teeth 181 and at the other end with a hollow boss 182 slidingly fitted within a radial socket of the wormwheel and provided with the spring 183 normally pressingsaid block outwardly into register with the adjacent peripheral wormwheel teeth, its range of movement being limited by the stop-screw 184 extending through the side of the worm-wheel into a longitudinal slot 185 in the boss 182 whose ends it is adapted to engage.

The slide-block 181 has a lateral lug 186 whose outer wedge-shaped extremity is normally engaged by the cammed end ,187 of the laterally extending controlling lever 188 fulcrumed upon the stud-screw 189 and drawn downwardly so as to rest upon the top of the lower worm-shaft bearing 176 by means of the spring 190. Projecting upwardly from a lug 191 upon the base 2 is a spring detent-arm 192 whose enlarged upper end is provided in one edge with a notch 193 normally embracing the lug 186 of the yielding wormswheel section 181 in its inner or retracted position, when engaged by the heel of the cammed extremity 187 of the lever-arm 188. By the lifting of the lever-arm the lug 186 is released and the worm-wheel section pressed by its spring 183 into operative relation with the worm 177 whereby a rotary movement of Vthe worm-wheel 178 is inaugurated which continues until the completion of a rotation, when the retraction of the Worm-wheel section by encounter of the lug 186 with the cam-member 187 interrupts the operative relation between the worm and worm-wheel and causes the latter to stop. The engagement of the inner face of the lug 186 with the outer face of the detent-arm 192 causes the deflection of the latter until the lug comes in register with the holding notch 193, when the detent-arm snaps into normal position with its notch embracing said lug, thereby locking the worm-wheel in initial position.

Secured to and adapted to rotate with the worm-wheel 178 is a gear-wheel 194 to which is rigidly connected the radially extending clamp-opening tappet 195. Loosely mount.- ed upon the transverse shaft 104 and in intermeshing relation with the gear 194 is the gear 196 upon the hub of which is secured the rigid clutch-lever shifting tappet 197 and the pivotally mounted tappet 198 formed with a yoke 199 embracing said hub i and sustained thereon by means of the pivot screws 200.` Inter-posed between the tappet 198 and the bottom of a socket formed in the face of the gear 196 is a spring 201 (Fig. 7) maintaining said dog yieldingly in normal position wherein a stop-arm 199x forming an extension of one member of the yoke 199 rests in contact'with the face of the gear 196, and in which position relative to the sustaining gear 196 the said tappet moves in a path in which are normally located .the contact-block 153X of the locking lever 153, the nose 143 of the rigid rocklever-arm 142 and the end of the finger 115 upon the fixed collary 114.

Upon the channeled outer end of the stud 164 is secured by means of the screw 202 the shank 203 of a tripping lug 204 having an inclined operative face 205 arranged in the normal path of circular movement of the tappet 198 and with its inner extremity in substantial register with the inner end of the Enger 115 in the initial position of the stitch-forming mechanism prior to the stitching of the eye of the buttonhole. In performing a rotation, the tappet 198 engages one side of the finger 115 in the dotted line position thereof represented in Fig. 95 7, and carries it around into the full line position of said figure at which point the inclined operative face 205 of the tripping lug deflects the tappet inwardly in opposition to its spring 201 and thereby disengages 100 it from the finger 115 which remains in such position during the remainder of the rotation, and by the quarter-turn of the shaft 104 thus effected, the stitch-forming mechanism is given a retrograde half-turn 105 following a semi-rotation for an eye-stitch ing operation. y

An initial rotation of the gears 194 and 196 is produced by lifting the cam-lever 188 to establish operative relation between the 110 worm 17 7 and wormswheel 17 8.. In the initial starting position of the parts, the rocklever 140 142 is in its less inclined clampopening position in which the-nose 143 of the arm 1 42 is close to and beneath the con- 115 tact-plate 153". As-the spring-pressed tappet 198 performs av rotation, it first engages lthe platev153X to retract the locking lever 153 from engagement of its upper notch 154 with the pin'144, after which the tappet 120 engages the nose 143 of the `swinging rocklever-arm 142 and tilts the rock-lever to turn the clamp rock-shaft 76 whereby the clampjaws are successively closed upon the work and spread. i

In its tilting movement with the rocklever 140, 142, the swinging arm 146 is thrown outwardly from the path of movement of theV clamp-opening tappet 195 by engagement of a bent rod 206 with the 130 dei y 'rounded nose of the cam-m1112116 Whichis` at this time in a substantially. vvertical positron vl'v50 .terrupting vvdriving relation @between they 'mailtshaft 21.?a11d the stit'chI-"forining` and gfeedingfmechan'isms; In the lpresent instance thefmains'haft 21 has loosely mou-nti :k ed.. upon fitsl-rearwardend the -peripherally `upon its now stationary supporting shaft 104 previous to the eye-stitching operation.` The engagement of the rod 167 with the rod 166 'at the' same .time draws the swinging arm 159 ofthe'locking lever' out 'of the path of movement `of said tappet 195, so that the latter performs an idle rotation at thistime. After the. stitching ofthe rst .side of the buttonhole, the stitch-'forming mechanism receives a.b semi-rotation as before explained, whereby the-shaft 104 is given a quarterturn and the fingerll and cam-arm. 116 assume the positions representedv in Fig. 3 wherein the cam-arm is retracted from engagement with the rod 206 so `as to permit the nose 146X of the swinging arm 146 and the contactblck 160 of the locking leverarm 159 to return under the action of they springs 148 and 168y into the path of travel of the tappet195. i

At the end of a buttonhole stitching and cutting operation, a second lifting 4of the camllever`188 causes a final rotation of the gears 194 and 196, during Which the'tappet 198 incidentally shifts the locking lever 153 but passes Without engaging the nose 143 of the lever-arm 142m its lower position,

but it engages the finger 115 and carries it around until disengaged therefrom` by the tripping lug 204 as before describedi' f After the engagement-and .release ofthe locking lever 153 by the-tappet 198, the engagement :by the tappet 195 ivith.the-eontactblock 16.5 fearried by the swinging arm .159* ofy the lock-y ing" leverv 15.3 again disengages the lever 153 from the pin 155-and` While the rock lever 140 `142 `is thusnn1ocked, engages the nose 146- of the arm 146-,therebytilting the-rocklever to open the clampanddraw its jaivs together for asucceeding operation, therod 206 being carried upward by this 'mo-"vement vsufficiently to clearthev ca21n-arm 116 in its return to initialposition.y It vvillV thus be seen that the shaft 175 is. kdrivenindepend- `ently ofthe stitch-forming andf feeding mechanisms and constitutesan actuator foi1 a .the slit-cutting'l and clamp-operating nicch-v anisni and that said mechanisms are. po*

sitioned'beyondthewrange of `action of saidl actuator, during chest-itching ofthe buttonv hole The; actuatrinerely turnsidlyuntil theytoothedsectionsl180and-296 of thegears -17 8 and 294,5. respectively; 'are released and permitted tofmove Withinthe range ofiaction of the; Worm"-Whee'lsr @carried bythe f .shaft 175). 7

i The. machinegis equipped; vvith automatic stop motion for establishing-fand iny "With they adjacent thrustinembers" .or interjv psedwashers 234-and 235.

shaft 213 mounted in bearings 214 depend-r ing from the bed-plate andv driven b v'abelt 215 from thesource of power.

The pulley-Wheel 207 has in its outer face a thrusteplat'e 216 provided with .a `convex central portion and secured theretoby means of fastening screws 217 This thrust-plate vis normally pressed outwardly for disengagemenit of rthe 'clutch- members 208 and 209 bymeans of la plug 218 fitted Within an axial socket ofthe shaft 21 With a spring 219 interposed between the inner 'end of said plug and the bottom of the socket.

The thrust-plate' 216 is adapted to beengaged by the inclined adjacentjface of a wedge-piece 220rsecured :to the clutch-lever 221 fixed upon the rearward end of a'transverse rock-shaft222y and carrying upon its ,outer end the pivotallygmounted nose-piece formed with the angularly disposed arms 223 and 224 pivotally lmounted `upon said lever at their intersectionby meansof the pin 225..` .The arm 223 is sustained in normal position by engagement of the stoplug 226 of the nose-piece Withthe edge of the' lever 221,' and the "outer endofvthe same liesy in vthe path of movement of thevtappet 197 at the beginning ofa-` cycle of the Ina- "chine, and las representedl in fulllines" in Fig. 8; In the initial rotation ofthe gearing 105 194 196, the tappet 197'aetsy upon the tripi ping piece immediatelyT after the closing of y the clamp and forces the clutch-'lever 221 forwardly to couplethe main-shaft with its y constantly running driving element 207.1` 110 Fixed upon the forviard yend of the mainshaft 21. is a hand-Wheel 227 having a. hub portion 228 which constitutes one of two spaced thrust kmembers of which the other is a' fixed vdisk 229. Loosely mounted upon'the 115 shaftf21 between. the thrust members 228 .and y229 is 'a pair `of yc'ollarsshoivn as Clir- `cular` plates or disksy 230and 231 having upon their adjacent faces-respectively the .Wedge-shapedprojections or teethk 232 andv 12o'y adapted-...for Wedge-like jengagement;V rwhen said ydisks vare relatively turned, to

force `them apart into .frictiona-l engagement i .f 125 .;Th e disk 230 is'y providedy With: aforked lug 236-einbracing `.thefforvvardf end of `the roch-shaft 222 by means 'of Which yitis re-v strainedv against rotation. WithA the main-r *shaft The` 1. other.. disk: 231.'y has la .lateral- 130' arm 237 upon which is fulcrumed by means of the screw 238 the elbow-lever 239 formed with a lateral arm carrying a wearing block 240. The wearing block is adapted to rest upon the eccentric periphery of a cam-ring 241 secured upon the hub of the disk 229. A depending arm of the elbow-lever 239 carries a stud 242 which enters a curved slot 243 in the cam-lever 244 fulcrumed by means of the stud-screw 245 upon the post 246 rising from the bed-plate 1.

The cam-lever 244 is connected by means of the screw-bolt 247 with the lower end of a link 248 whose upper end is attached by means of the screw-stud 249 to the forwardly projecting crank-arm 250 fixed upon the rock-shaft 222. The link 248 is normally drawn downwardly by a spring 251 to normally seat a stop-arm 252 thereof upon the flattened upper end of the standard 246.

The rock-shaft 222 has also fixed thereon the rearwardly extending forked arm 253 provided with the short branch 254 and the longer branch 255 carrying the feed-tripping rod 62 before mentioned. The branch 254 is adapted for engagement by the operative shoulder of the angular latch-lever 256 mounted upon the fixed fulcrum-screw 257 and having a rearwardly extending tail 258, such lever being pressed into operative engagement with the member 254 by means of a spring 259 coiled around its fulcru-mn stud 257. The member 254 of the arm 253 is also adapted for engagement by the hooked outer end of the upwardly extend ing arm 260 of an angular locking lever fulcrumed upon the stud 261 and having a tripping arm 262`whose inturned extremity lies in the path of movement of the tripping stud 57 carried b y the gear-wheel 39. The tripping lever 260 262 is provided with the usual spring for throwing it into operative engagement with. the member 254 of the arm 253.

The cam-lever 188 carries a stud 263 embraced by the lower end of an upright rod 264 whose apertured opposite end embraces a stud-screw 265 of a lever 266 mounted upon the fulcrum-screw 267 and having an inclined outer end portion 268. Near the upper end, the rod 264 carries a roller-stud 269 adapted for engagement by the camfnger 270 fixed upon the rocking pin 271 which is journaled in the standard 4 and has fixed upon its opposite end a depending arm 272 with its lower extremity bent forwardly into an extension 273 formed intermediate the ends with a shoulder 274. The arm 272 is normally pressed backwardly into retracted position by means of a spring 275 secured thereon and having an arm resting upon the hub of latch lever 256.

Secured to the frame member 5 is a bracket 276 carrying a fulcrum-stud 277 55 upon which is mounted the rock-lever 278 the forward depending arm of which is formed with a linger-piece 279 and the upwardly and rearwardly extending arm of which carries a pivotal pin 280 to which is connected one arm of the starting rod 281 which passes through an aperture 282 in the bracket 283 and is formed with an outwardly and rearwardly directed extension 284 formed at its rearward extremity with a depending forked lug 285 embracing the extension 273 of the arm 27 2 and resting thereon intermediate the body of said arm and the shoulder 274. The starting rod is shown formed with a stop-lug 281X adapted for engagement with the bracket 283 to limit the operative movement of said rod.

In the drawings, the parts are represented with the work-holder closed and the slit-cutting mechanism in the positions assumed in a slit-cutting operation, the main-shaft with its controlling devices and the mechanism connected therewith being under the same conditions as exist at the beginning of a cycle of operation of the entire machine. To follow through a complete cycle of the machine, it is therefore necessary only to assume that the slit-cutting has been completed and the clamp opened in readiness for a succeeding stitching and cutting operation.

' Pressure upon the finger-piece 279 of the rock-lever 278 draws the starting rod 281 forward and thereby engages the forked lug 285 of the latter with the shoulder 274,0f the rocking arm272, which causes the turning of the cam-finger 270 to lift th'e rod 264 for imparting an operative cycle of movement to the clamp-operating mechanism. The shifting of the vvclutch-lever 221 into operative position by this means serves to rock'the shaft 222 by means of which the arm 253 is lowered into running position vwhere it is initially retained by the spring-actuated latch-lever 256. The rocking of the shaft 222 further causes the elevation of the arm 250 and consequent rise of the cam-lever 244, the action of whose cam-slot 243 upon the stud 242 is to disengagethe contact-block 240 from the cam-disk 241 and remove the friction upon the lthrust- members 228 and 229.

The described movement of the arm 253 throws the tripping rod 62 into engagement with the contact-plate 59, whereby the detent-lever 46 is disengaged from the initial feed-pawl 32 and the feeding mechanism is thrown into action simultaneously with the starting of the main-shaft. The recession of the tripping stud 57 from the locking leverarm 262permits the locking arm 26() to engage the extremity 254 of the rockshaft arm 253 to retain the same in running position after the disengagement therefrom of the latch-lever 256 by the action of the stud 52 upon the gear-wheel 38. In the stitching of the second side of the buttonhole the feeding 150 yrocks thevelb'owllever 239' tobring the'con- 1,035,344, dated August is, 1912, the Snc,

inechanisinreverses and the tripping stud 57 againmoves intoengagement with the lock- .ing lever-arm 262, thereby shifting the same to'disengage therarm260 from therock-shaft 1 arm 253; This permits therock-shaft 222 to be rocked'under `the action of the spring 251 for retraction ofthe clutch-lever221 in disvengaging the clutch- members 208 and 209 for disconnecting the main-shaft from its driving element, and atthe-@salne time the descent of the'link 248 causes a corresponding movement kof the cam-lever 244y which rtact-block 240 into forcible: engagement with the periphery of the camr`ing`241 by means of which the pressure disk 281 is turned to engage its teeth'withfthose of the disk 230 whereby friction: is: applied to the thrustmembers 228 and 229 to arrest they shaft 21. 'As shown and described in ourPatent'No.

cutting l mechanism comprises the rock-lever 286 carrying an upper cutter-member 287 kand sustainedr by arockv-shaft 288 concentric withthe yfulcrum-screw 141v for the clampoperating rock-lever;` The. lowery cuttermember iszmoved intoand out of operative relation withthe'upper cutter-member for a cutting operation by `meansof a connection with the rock-'lever 286 which is itself actuated vby a toggledevice composed of" links 289 and' 290 connected by the pivotal pin 291 which is embracedby'the. forward `end of a vlinkbarl292 havingv its apertured opposite endy entered by;` a l crank-pin 293 upon. `a 'Worm-, wheel 2,94 `mounted *upon* a supporting stud-295. Like` the worm-wheel 178, the worm-'wheel294 has aradially movableL toothed section' 296 controlled inits action by* the camined extreinity 297 of a 'lever 298 l-`mounted upon" a rock-"shaft 299 f havingv secu-red upon itsfop'posite end the dependingarm 300 `formed vwith. a lateral vlipBOOX.` Thelip 300X of the arm 3001is adapted fto be engaged `bythey hookedvnextremity 301 of a pawlj-lever 302pivotally mounted? upon an upwardly. extending `arm 803 of an' angleleverfulcrumedf upon a stud 304 carried by anupwardly projecting ear 805 yof the rockshaftarm'f253 and having alateral 806 i' which iszicon'nected by meansof the link 807 with the lockingflever-arm r26.0. When the'y i y'rock-shaftarm258is depressedinl starting *the main-shaft, the'angle-leverBOS" 306 is carrieddownward' bodily'fand is rocked by its link, connectionBO with the `stationary f lever-arm 260, whereby the pawl-'lever 302 is f `caused to rest-upon the lip 800Xfof thefarm 300of thejcutter-:controlling device.' As the arm 253 rises atfthe'completionfof a` stitching operation, the angle-leverk 303 306 is i rocked'soas'to draw the `pawl-lever SO2-for-` wardly'z'mdv thereby shift the arm 300 to lifty y l 'the cam-arm 298 in 'opposition to its spring 308 te throw 'the cutter mechanism into :ac-

`driving element 207 at this time.`

tion. Onel of the jointed sections ofthe link-y bar 43 is slidingly mounted within a guidelway 309 of a rising and falling frame 310 connected with and actuated by the cutter rock-shaft 288 in such'manner that when the upper-cutter carrying yarm 286 descends fory 'a1 cutting action, the frame 310 rises and retracts' the work-clamp from stitching position into cutting position from` which it is returned bythe descent of the frame 310 effected by the reverse movement of the lever 286. T

Just priorA to the completion ofa rotation of 'the' cutter-actuating worm-wheel 294, the rearward end ofthe link-bar 292 engages the inclined forward extremity 268 of the lever 266 thereby lifting the rod 264 and impartcam-lever 188 to effectthe final cycle of olperation of the actuating mechanism for the clamp-operating rock-lever, the opera- I tion of which is as has been already described. y

In the rise of the laterally swinging leverarm 146 under the laction of the tappet 195 in opening the work-clamp, the end of the rod 206 encounters the arm 224 of the nose- `piece carriedvby the clutch-lever 221, thus turningv the same into thel dotted line positionrepresented in Fig. 3, wherein the arm 223 is'lifted out lof the path ofmovement` of the still moving tappetf`198 so `as to preits l venta reclutching of the main-shaft to j While the several trains of mechanism'associated vtogether in the machine shown inv ving the second operative movement tothe the 'drawingshavebeen described in detail,

both as to their constructive features and their cooperation in the production of-fa stitched buttonhole, it is to be understood that the invention embodied therein is susceptible of 'embodiment indifferent typesy of mechanism and in widely dierentforins and relations than those shown andL de-v scribed herein.` y

Having thus` Set forth the naar@ I@fthe invention, what we claim herein `is- 1. In ya buttonhole sewing machine, i-n

combination, a work-clamp, stitch-forming andfeedin'g mechanism, a stop-'motion device",i driving oonnections between said e stop.- Vinotioifi device and 'said stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms,` constantly running power means, and automatically controlled `connections actuatedby said power" means independently lof said driving' connections for thestitch-forming and feeding mechanisms for clamp. i

2. Ina buttonhole'stitching'machine, the combination with a work-clamp, stitchforming andy feeding mechanisms, slit-'cutting mechanism, and successively yoperating means for actuating the .stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms-and .the cutting mecha- :opening and closingvthe workiso nism, of means acting independently of said actuating means for automatically closing and opening said clamp. A

3. In a buttonhole stitching machine2 the combination with a work-clamp, stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, slit-cutting mechanism, and independent and successively operating means for actuating the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and the cutting mechanism, of means acting independently of said actuating means for automatically closing and opening said clamp, and controlling devices therefor whereby the successive closing and opening of the clamp are timed to occur respectively before and after the operation of said actuatingmeans for the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and the cutting mechanism.

4. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with a work-clamp, stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, slit-cutting mechanism, and successively operating means for actuating the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and the cutting mechanism, of clamp-operating means acting independently of said actuating means for effecting the closing and opening of the clamp, means for effecting actuations of the clamp-operating means both before and after the operation of the stitch-forming, feeding and cutting mechanisms in each buttonhole-producing cycle, and controlling means whereby the clamp is caused to be alternately closed and olpened.

5. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with a work-clamp, stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, means including a rotary shaft for operating the same, a constantly rotating driving element, and a clutch device including a swinging lever whereby said shaft may be coupled to the driving element, of clamp-actuating means with connections with the clamp whereby the latter is opened and closed, and means carried by said clamp actuating means and adapted to move the clutch lever into starting position for setting in motion the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms.

6. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with a work-clamp, stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, means for imparting operative movements thereto, and means for turning the stitch-forming mechanism during the stitching of the eye of an eyelet-end buttonhole, of clamp-operating means independent of the operating means for the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms whereby the clamp is opened and closed respectively at the beginning and end of a buttonhole-producing cycle, and means connected with the clamp-operating means for turning the stitch-forming mechanism into initial position after each stitching operation.

7 In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with a work-clamp, stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, means for imparting operative movements thereto, and means for turning the stitch-forming mechanism during the stitching of the eye of an eyelet end buttonhole, of clamp operating means timed for action both before and after a buttonhole stitching operation and including a rotary element adapted in its first ac tuation to close the clamp and in its succeeding actuation to turn the stitch-forming mechanism into initial position.

8. In a buttonhole stitching machine, tht7 combination with a work-clamp, stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism for producing the reverse feeding movements between the stitch-formin mechanism and the work-clamp, and inclu mg dwell-producing means having a connection with the stitchforming mechanism whereby the latter is given a semi-rotation for the stitching of one end of a buttonhole, and actuating means for the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of clamp-operating means independent of the actuating means for the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms whereby the clamp is opened and closed respectively at the beginning and end of a buttonholeroducing cycle, and means connected with t e clampoperating means for turning the stitch-forming mechanism into initial position after each stitching operation.

9. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relative feeding movements between the stitchforming mechanism and the work-clamp, of work-clamp operating means mounted separately from the work-clamp and adapted to close and open the latter, and a permanent connection between said operating meansand the work-clamp adapted to follow said feeding movements.

l0. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-clamp, and adjusting means whereby the length of relative traverse of the work-clamp and stitchforming mechanism may be varied, of workclamp operating means mounted separately from the work-clamp and adapted to close and open the latter, and a permanent connection between said operating means and the work-clamp adapted to follow said feeding movements.

11. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp provided with relatively movable upper and lower jaws and means including a toggle device for closing said jaws together and maintaining them closed during a stitching operation, and means 91 producing .relative feeding. movements between the stitch-forming `mechanism and the workclamp, of automatically acting work-clamp operating means mounted separately from 5.y the work-clamp, and awpermanent connection between said operating means and said toggle device adapted to follow said feeding movements.

12.` In a buttonliole stitching machine, the

10. .Combination with stitch-forming mechanism,

' a work-clamp, and means for producing relative feeding movements between the stitchforming mechanism andthe work-clamp, of work-clamp operating means, a` permanent i` connection between said operating means and the work-'clamp adapted to follow saidkv feeding movements, means applied' to an element of said clampoperating means for locking the same against operative movement during a stitching operation, and means for vcontrolling the action .of said locking means,

13. Ina buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitchforming mechanism, a work-clamp, andmeans for producing relativefeeding' movements between the stitch-l forming mechanism and the work-clamp, of

,work-clamp operating means, a.y permanent connection between said operating means andv the work-clamp adapted tol'follow said 30. feeding movements, means applied to an element `of said clai'np-operating means for` locking the. same against operative movement both iii clamp-opening and closing positions, and meaiisfor controlling the action 3-5` of said Locln'ng means.

1 4. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,

a work-clamp, andmeans for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch- 45.0 forming mechanism and the work-clamp, of

work-clamp operating means, apermanent connection between said operating means and the work-clamp adapted to follow said feeding movements, means appliedto an element of said clampoperating means foinorvmally maintaining the latter in either of.; its extreme; positions, and controlling means for disengaging the. locking means from said element both before and after av buttonhole stitching operation.

1 5. l Ina buttonhole stitchingmachine, `the combination with vstitch-forming and feedingkmechanisms and actuating means therefor, -of a .worin-holder comprising pairs of., 5,5 separable vclamping j jaws j movable laterally toward j and fromkeacli other andformed with inclinedgrooves, aspreading plate provided with inclined ribs fitted within. the grooves. of saidv clampingu jaws and with ospaced shoulders, a clamp-operatingdevice provided with contact fingers adapted respectively to engage the clamping jaws and theshoulders of the spreading plate, and actuating mea ns for said clamp-.operating 6 5. device whereby the clamping jaws are `successively closed upon the worl and spread preparatory to the stitching operation.

16. A work-holder for buttonhole stitching machines comprising pairs of separable clamping aws movable laterally toward and from each other, a toggle device for drawing said jaws into clamping relation, a slideplate operativelyr connected with a member 0f said toggle device and 'providedr with divergent guides each connected with one'of the jaws of each pair, and means for actuating said toggle device for opening and closing said jaws and for imparting thereto relativek lateral shifting movements.

17 A work-holder for .buttonhole stitching machines comprising pairs of separable clamping jaws movable laterally toward and from each other, `a toggle device for] drawing said jaws into clamping relation, a slideplate provided with divergent guides each connected with one ofthe jawsof'each pair, a loose .connection between :an element: yof

said toggle device and 'the 'slide-plate wherebythe latter is caused to perform its operativespreading movement after the toggle device 'has performed the clamp-jaw closingv portion yof its movement, sand means for actuating said toggle device.

18. In av buttonhole stitching machine, d the combin ation with awork clamp, stitchforining and feeding mechanisms, slit-cutting mechanism, `and `independent and successively operating means for actuating lthe stitch-forming'and feedingmechanisms and the cutting mechanism, of means independent.I of said actuating `means for automatically closing the clamp, and .means actuated by the clamp-closing means for setting in.

motion one of said actuating means.

19. Inabuttonholestitching machine, the

combination witha work-clamp, stitch-fornif ing and feeding j mechanisms, slitcutting mechanism, and independent successively operating means for actuating thestitch-iorming and feeding mechanisms and the-cutting mechanism, of means independent of saiduactuating means for automati-y cally closing the clamp, controlling means whereby the actuatingmeans for the stitchforming and feeding mechanisijns may be thrown into yand out of action, and `an operative connection between said controlling,

means and the clamp-closing means.

20. Ina buttonhole stitching machine, the l combina-tion with awork-clamp, stitch-forni-4 ing and feeding mechanisms, means for im:-

partiiig operative movements the stitch-.

forming and feeding. mechanisms, and means for turning ,theA stitchforming mechanism during the stitching ofthe end of a buttonhole, of clamp-closing means, clamp-opening means connected to and movable simultaneously with 'the clamp-closing means, and

means controlled by the turningmfeans of the stitch-forming mechanism forinterruptiio ing and establishing operative relation between the clamp-opening means and the clamp.

21. In a buttonh-ole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the workclamp, of work-clamp operating means comprising a rock-lever, a flexible connection between the same and the work-clamp, and actuating means inclu-ding two differentially moving tappets adapted to act positively upon said rock-lever to rock the same alternately in opposite directions.

22. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the workclamp, of work-clamp operating means comprising a rock-lever, 'a connection between the same and the work-clamp, and actuating means including two rotary tappets geared together for rotation in opposite directions, means for insuring the alternate engagement of -said tappets with said rock-liever, and means for imparting to said tappet-s two rotations with an intermediate period of rest for each buttonhol'e stitching operation.

23. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing rela-tive feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the workclamp, of work-clampy operating means compri-sing a rock-lever provided with a rigid arm `and a swinging arm adapted for movement laterally transversely of its rocking movements, a connection between the rocklever land the work-clamp, actuating means including a clamp-closing and a clamp-opening tappet with means for imparting operative movements thereto, and means for shifting the swinging rock-lever arm out of operative relation with the clamp-opening tappet during the action of the clamp-closing tappet upon the rigid rock-lever arm, and for thereafter restoring said swinging arm to operative relation with the clamp-'opening tappet.

24. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a lwork-clamp, and means for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the workclamp, of work-clamp operating means comprising a rock-lever, a connection between the same and the work-clamp, a normally operative locking device for preventing the movement of said rock-lever, a clamp-closing and a clamp-opening tappet adapted for action successively upon said rock-lever and upon said locking device preparatory to each engagement with the rock-lever, means 25. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the i combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relative feeding movements between the stitchforming mechanism and the work-clamp, of work-clamp operating means comprising a rock-lever provided with a rigid arm and a. swinging arm adapted for movement laterally transversely to its rocking movements, a connection between the rock-lever and the work-clamp, a normally operative locking element provided with a rigid shoulder and a laterally yielding shoulder movable transversely of the direction of rocking movement of the rock-lever, a clamp-closing tappet adapted for successive engagement with the rigid shoulder of the locking element and the rigid arm of the rock-lever for unl locking and shifting the rock-lever to close the clamp, a clamp-opening tappet adapted for successive engagement with the yielding shoulder of the locking element and the laterally swinging arm of the rock-lever for unlocking and shifting the rock-lever to open the clamp, means for actuating said tappets, and means for preventing the effective operation of the clamp-opening tappet while the clamp-closing tappet is in effective action.

26. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, slit-cutting mechanism, operating means for said slit-cutting mechanism, a work-clamp, means for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-clamp, and adjusting means whereby the length of relative traverse of the work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism may be varied, of automatically acting means independent of said operating means and unaffected by said adjusting means for closing and opening the clamp respectively at the beginning and end of a buttonhole-producing cycle.

27. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, a work-clamp, clamp-opening means, a slit-cutting device, an actuator adapted for connection with the clamp-opening means and cutting device but having a range of action beyond which they are normally positioned and devices acting separately from each other for establishing operative connection of the clamp-opening means and the cutting device respectively with said actuator.

2S. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, a work-clamp, clamp-opening means, a slit-cutting device, an actuator operative independently of the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, and devices acting separately from each other for establishing operative connection of the clamp-opening means and the cutting device respectively with said actuator. A 29. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, actuating means therefor, a work-clamp, clamp-opening means, a rotary actuator performing repeated excursions during a. given buttonhole-producing cycle and operative independently of the stitch-forming mechanism and its, actuating means, and means operating after the buttonhole hasl been y Vstitched to establish and interrupt operative connection between said actuator and the clamp-opening means to eflect the opening of the work-clamp atvthe close of said buttonhole producing cycle. y

30. In a button hole sewing machine,in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a shaft for actuating the same, a stop-motion for controlling itsperiod of action, a` workclamp, clamp-opening means, an actuator :operable independently of vsaid shaft during the stitching period of a buttonhole producing'cycle, and means controlled by the stop-motion forv establishing operative connection between said `actuator and the clampopeningmeans whereby said actuator operates at theclose of the buttonhole producing cycle to open `the work-clamp. v

3l. In. aqbuttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming -mechanism, a stop-motion` for controlling itsl period of .action, a` work-clamp, means including a feedwheel for relatively moving the stitchrforming mechanism and work-clamp in sewing about a buttonhole, clamp-opening means, an actuator, vmeans controlled by the stopmotion for establishing operative connection distinct from the-feed-.wheelbetween said actuator and the clamp-opening 'means, whereby said actuator acts. at the closeof the buttonhole-producing ,cycle to open the work-clamp while the feed-wheel is stationary andk means acting independently of the stop-motion for interrupting said connection.`

32. In a` buttonhole sewing machine, in

combination, stitch-forming and feedingr mechanisms, a work-clamp, clamp-opening and closing means, .a slit-cutting device, operating means therefor independent of the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, `and means for establishing operative connections between said operating means andthe clampopeningand closingmeans, respectively, at different times during aibuttonhole producing cycle.

33. In a buttonhole sewing machine, ,in combination, stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, a stop-motion for determining their period of coperative action,fa work- [65 clamp, clamp-opening and closing means,

slit-cutting mechanism, anoperative connection. betweenthe clamp-closing means and the slit-cutting mechanism, and meansycentrolled. by the stop-motion in arrestingthe stitch-forming' and feeding mechanisms dur,-` ing a given buttonhole producing cycle for establishing operative connection `r`betvsvfeen the clamp-opening means and the slitcutting` mechanism to effect the opening of thewerkclamp at the close of said cycle.

`34C. .In a button'hole sewing machine, in f combinati-on, stitchfforming mechanism, .a work-clamp', lfeeding mechanism .for producing relative stitch-positioning move.,- ments between said. stitch-forming mecha-`l` nism and work-clamp, a. main-shaft for said stitch-foiming and feeding mechanism@- clamp-.opening ymeans, slit-cutting mechanism distinct kfrom said stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and their actuating,l shaft, and an operative connection between. the slit-cutting mechanism land 'the clampopening, means. n

`35.,I.n `a buttonhole sewing machine, in

combination, stitch-forming .mechanismz -a ,90. work-clamp, feeding mechanism. for. producing relative stitch positioning movementsbetween said stitch-forming mechanismwand work-clamp, a. main-shaftr for said .stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, clamp-i opening meanaSlit-cutting mechanism ydistinctfrom said stitch-forming and feed-ing. mechanisms and theiractuating shaft, an .actuator. from` `which the clamp-openingl means. and cutting device `are normally discon-. nected duringthestitching, and means for establishing operative connection of the slitcutting deviceland the clamp-openingy means with saidv actuator.

36.111 ya burttonho-lesewing machine, in105 combination,y stitch-forming mechanism, ,ai work-clamp, feeding mechanism for, producing relative stitch-positioning movements between saidv stitchforming mechanism and. work-clamp, a main-shaft for said stitchi forming andy feeding mechanisms, clampy opening means, clamp-spreading means, slit` cutting mechanism .distinctfrom .said` stitchforming and feeding. mechanisms andtheir actuating shaft, an actuator, fromA which1 the cutting device and the clamp-opening., and spreading means arev normally disconnected, and means for .establishing operative .r cennection of saidactuator with thecuttingdevice and clamp-opening and spreading, means for eifecting. the cuttingof a Ibuttonhole-.slit and the` opening and unspreading ofthe clamp. n v

37..In a buttonhole .sewing machine,in combination, a work-clamp, spreading :means 'therefor operating ,independently Qf,fth`e movement of.. the .Work-clam slit-cutting mechanism, an actuator` there or, and means. adapted for. operative. y connection with said actuator.v whereby the spreading means are 113,0

reciprocally operated to effect the spreading and unspreadmg of the clamp.

i 38. In a fbuttonhole sewing machine, in combination, a Work-clamp, spreading means therefor operating independently of the movement of the `work-clamp, slit-cutting mechanism, and operative connections between the latter and the spreading means for eEecting the spreading and unspreading of the work-clamp.

39. In a huttonhole sewing machine, in combination, a work-clamp, spreading means therefor operating independently of the movement of the work-clamp, slit-cutting mechanism, and an operative connection between the slit-cutting mechanism and the spreading means whereby the latter is operated to unspread the clamp.

40. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work-clamp, means including a feed-wheel for producing relative traveling movements between said stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp, power means running idly during the sewing, norm'ally stationary clamp-'opening means, and connections distinct from said feed-wheel for coupling the clamp-opening means with said power means.

41. In an automatic buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a stop-motion therefor, a rotary element adapted to act prior to the stitching operation and available to perform a desired operation preparatory to stitching, and a second rotary element stationary throughout the preparatory and stitching stages of ya buttonhole-producing cycle and,

adapted to act subsequently to the stitching operation to perform a desired operation after stitching, said first mentioned rotary element being stationary during the stitching operation.

42. In an automatic buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a stop-motion therefor, a rotary element adapted to act prior to the stitching operation and available to perform a desired operation preparatory to stitching, a second rotary element station-ary throughout the preparatory and stitching stages of a huttonhole-producing cycle and adapted to act subsequently to the stitching operation to perform a desired operation after stitching, means connected to said first-mentioned rotary element for operating the stop-mechanism to start the stitch-forming mechanism, and means connected to said stop-mechanism for starting said second rotary element after the stitching is completed, said first mentioned rotary element being stationary during the stitching operation.

copies of thil patent may be obtained for ive cents each,

43. In an automatic buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a stop-motion therefor, a rotary element adapted to act prior tothe stitching operation and available to perform a desired operation preparatory to stitching, a second rotary element stationary throughout the preparatory and stitching stages of a butto-nhole-producing cycle and adapted to act subsequently to the stitching operation to perform a desired operation after stitching, manually controlled meansfor initiating the action of said first rotary ele-- ment, and automatically acting means controlled by said first rotary element for initiating the action of said second rotary element, said iirst mentioned rotary element b eing stationary during the stitching o-peration.

44. In an automatic bwttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a stop-motion therefor, a rotary element adapted to act prior to the stitching operation and available to perform a desired operation preparatory to stitching, a second rotary element stationary throughout the preparatory and stitching stages of a buttonhole-producing cycle and adapted to act subsequently to the stitching operation to perform a desired operation after stitching, and driving means for said rotary elements including constantly running drivers and means for establishing and automatically intermlipting driving relation between said drivers and said rotary elements, said first mentioned rotary element being stationary during the stitching operation.

45. In an automatic buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a stop-motion therefor, a rotary element adapted to act prior to the stitching operation and available to perform a desired operation preparatory to stitching, a second rotary element 4stationary throughout the preparatory and stitching stages of a buttonhole producing cycle and adapted to act subsequently to the stitching operation to perform a desired operation after stitching, and driving means for said rotary elements including constantly running drivers and automatic throw-out clutch devices between said drivers and said rotary elements, whereby each of said rotary elements will, upon the completion of a predetermined angle of rotation be automatically disconnected from its driver.

THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY,

Assignee of the entire interest of James G.

by addressing the Commissioner of Patents.

Wellington, D. Q.

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